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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ rotors
Posted by: cpavlenko Oct 23 2014, 09:41 PM
I got some new front rotors, wheel bearings, and seals. I've seen a tread on how to do this, but can't find it. The seating of the rotor, how tight. Also went to adjust rear inner clearance on rear pads, but there where no gears in them, lol, so i called PMB, and there sending me new gears, copper seals, and the new better caps. Any suggestions. 
I've done rotors before, but not on the 914. Just want to make sure its done correctly, thanks.
Posted by: stugray Oct 23 2014, 09:46 PM
I think the perfect method is the following:
1 - Overtighten the nut (while turning the rotor) to verify bearing races are seated.
2 - Loosen the nut until you can get some free play in the wheel (top & bottom wiggle just barely).
3 - Retighten the nut until no noticeable wheel wiggle.
4 - Verify that you can move the washer by prying with the tip of a screwdriver.
Of course you can tighten the nut until you have no wobble, but overtightening means you cannot move the washer.
No perceptible wheel wobble PLUS able to still move the washer = "just right".
I then drove the car a mile or so & jacked up the front and checked, and they were still just right.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 24 2014, 08:34 AM
I think the perfect method is the following:
1 - Overtighten the nut (while turning the rotor) to verify bearing races are seated.
2 - Loosen the nut until you can get some free play in the wheel (top & bottom wiggle just barely).
3 - Retighten the nut until no noticeable wheel wiggle.
4 - Verify that you can move the washer by prying with the tip of a screwdriver.
Of course you can tighten the nut until you have no wobble, but overtightening means you cannot move the washer.
No perceptible wheel wobble PLUS able to still move the washer = "just right".
I then drove the car a mile or so & jacked up the front and checked, and they were still just right.
Don't forget to re-check after a few miles like Stu mentions. Same goes with CV bolts in the rear if you don't have them safety wired. They can back out even after you think you have them torqued done.
Posted by: cpavlenko Oct 24 2014, 08:43 AM
What type of tool needed for cv bolts and torque specs.
Posted by: 76-914 Oct 24 2014, 09:13 AM
http://www.pmbperformance.com/bedin.html
Posted by: bdstone914 Oct 24 2014, 10:07 AM
What type of tool needed for cv bolts and torque specs.
The tool is a triple square 8 mm.
32 ft lbs
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 24 2014, 10:11 AM
What type of tool needed for cv bolts and torque specs.
Most 914s now have 8mm triple square fasteners. Earlier models came with 6mm Allen head fasteners. As a result, some cars have had some of the bolts changed, some not. You're gonna have to look. Clean out the internal sockets before using either tool. The torque spec I use is 35 ft/lbs.
The Cap'n
Posted by: cpavlenko Oct 24 2014, 02:31 PM
Thank u for all the good info, I've learned a lot on this great forum. Got the 914 up on the jack stands this morn, just waiting for the rest of the parts to get here. 
Posted by: cpavlenko Oct 24 2014, 02:32 PM
Thank u for all the good info, I've learned a lot on this great forum. Got the 914 up on the jack stands this morn, just waiting for the rest of the parts to get here.
Posted by: cpavlenko Oct 24 2014, 02:33 PM
Sorry 4 the double post.
Posted by: stugray Oct 24 2014, 04:29 PM
Clean out the internal sockets before using either tool.
The Cap'n
He really means that!
#1 cause of stripping those bolts is crap down inside the bolt head.
Hit em with WD40 or engine cleaner and let em soak overnight and then hit em again and clean them out good.
Posted by: cpavlenko Oct 24 2014, 09:27 PM
I have the 8mm triple square fastener. I'll have to buy a socket for the torgue wrench to check them. Oh goodie, goodie, more tools for the tool chest.
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