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Posted by: Mueller Jan 31 2005, 09:56 PM

Doing some "surf'n" and came across these being installed on an Audi A4

I never knew that they made a parking brake caliper...


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Posted by: Mueller Jan 31 2005, 09:56 PM

one more shot.....


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Posted by: iiibdsiil Jan 31 2005, 10:25 PM

Someone please have pricing and it better be cheap.

I drive around with a brick behind my seat sometimes, just in case I park somewhere that I am concerned with the trans not staying in gear.

Posted by: cdmcse Jan 31 2005, 10:36 PM

I am seriously considering using these....

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=WIL%2D120%2D2280&N=100+400196&view=4095&media=2

A hot rod buddy said they use these when building custom e-brake set-ups for street rods.

A little and and you could probably design us a mount.

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 31 2005, 11:06 PM

here is a simply way to make a parking brake. buy the willwood spot caliber at 57 bucks, then a push pull cable from mcmaster carr for 45 bucks. then just fab a plate that comes off of the diff cover to mount the caliber to. then a simple AL rotor made from 1/8 inch AL, double thickness at the caliber location. a few holes and a few screws ( 10 to 15 ) to hold the 2 layers together. the last thing would be longer roll pins and cv bolts ( 1/8 inch longer ) to sandwich the rotor between the cv and tranny out put flange.then just hook the cable to the stock brake handle.

now why put it on the tranny end, simple, why add 2 to 3 lbs of unsprung weight, and less trouble when working on the rear axles.

i bet this could be made in 3 hours for 150 bucks or less

now this would not hold up as an emergency brake but it would be a fine parking brake

Posted by: bondo Jan 31 2005, 11:21 PM

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Jan 31 2005, 10:06 PM)

now this would not hold up as an emergency brake but it would be a fine parking brake

Nice idea!! I bet it would work as an emergency brake as long as your emergency wasn't two broken axles I guess the aluminum might clog the pads eventually, but a steel rotor wouldn't be much heavier and could be thinner.

Posted by: cdmcse Jan 31 2005, 11:26 PM

That is a cool idea. You could probably even find an inexpensive disc to use from a motorcycle or go cart, then all you would need is some kind of mounting hat and caliper mount.

Posted by: scott thacher Jan 31 2005, 11:29 PM

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 31 2005, 09:21 PM)

I guess the aluminum might clog the pads eventually, but a steel rotor wouldn't be much heavier and could be thinner.

but the problem with a steel rotor is weight, and it would need to be .25 inch thick, because willwood makes several calibers but the thinest rotor they work with is .25 inch.

now yes AL might clog the pads if you tried to use it as an e-brake, but under nothing but a static load i dont think it would ever be a problem

Posted by: ArtechnikA Feb 1 2005, 07:45 AM

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Feb 1 2005, 12:29 AM)

but the problem with a steel rotor is weight, and it would need to be .25 inch thick

0.085" aluminum "hat section" disk faced two sides with 0,085" mild steel.

i'm still not sure why we're not investigating using VW GTI/GLI rear calipers, but since i haven't done it either, i have no idea the mounting issues. they stopped the car and had good e-brake / parking brake performance.

Posted by: 9146986 Feb 1 2005, 08:30 AM

Clay Perrine has already been working on a bracket kit for a spot caliper.

Posted by: Mueller Feb 1 2005, 09:52 AM

QUOTE

i'm still not sure why we're not investigating using VW GTI/GLI rear calipers, but since i haven't done it either, i have no idea the mounting issues. they stopped the car and had good e-brake / parking brake performance.

"someone" is ...that is how I found these pictures...aluminum caliper with built in parking brake....I should get my sample next week I hope....

Posted by: bondo Feb 1 2005, 10:53 AM

Our 87 Subaru GL-10 has it's parking brake in the front. The calipers are pretty decent size, and set up for a vented disc. Not aluminum calipers though.

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 1 2005, 11:15 AM

Sorry boys, I have some dis-hearting numbers...

i've also been working on a bolt-on spot caliper kit, and durring my research the Brembro's came up around $700 each! The hot ticket would be a Willwood spot caliper, but i've been working on making a few myself.

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 1 2005, 11:16 AM

Any thoughts as to whether it would be easier to make a bracket for the front or rear?

Next time I get under my car, I will look, see if it looks like it would be a complete pain in the ass.

Posted by: cdmcse Feb 1 2005, 11:33 AM

Here is another company that makes mechanical calipers, but they look like an OEM supplier.

http://www.hayesbrake.com/standard_products.html

Posted by: SteveSr Feb 1 2005, 11:49 AM

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 31 2005, 09:21 PM)

but a steel rotor wouldn't be much heavier and could be thinner.

And could be drilled for lightness.........................

SteveSr

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 1 2005, 11:54 AM

Hey iibdsiil,

Get rid of that rock and go to Sears, they have these for dirt cheap! They fit perfectly between the seat and side tunnel.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950119000

Posted by: SteveSr Feb 1 2005, 11:56 AM

QUOTE (cdmcse @ Jan 31 2005, 09:26 PM)

You could probably even find an inexpensive disc to use from a motorcycle or go cart, then all you would need is some kind of mounting hat and caliper mount.

Why not take the whole front brake system from a motorcycle ,caliper, disc and mastercylinder and fab a lever to replace the hand lever that was on the handle bar????

SteveSr

Posted by: Mueller Feb 1 2005, 12:22 PM

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 10:15 AM)

Sorry boys, I have some dis-hearting numbers... i've also been working on a bolt-on spot caliper kit, and durring my research the Brembro's came up around $700 each! The hot ticket would be a Willwood spot caliper, but i've been working on making a few myself.

I found the Brembos for $300 each.....ouch, still too much...the pads are another $80 or so per caliper....damn.....

The problem with the Wilwood Spot calipers is that they are only for a .38" width rotor, so if you want to use it outboard on vented rotors, you'll have to open it up and make custom spacers....adding to the cost of the conversion.....

Posted by: SteveSr Feb 1 2005, 12:34 PM

QUOTE (SteveSr @ Feb 1 2005, 09:56 AM)

Why not take the whole front brake system from a motorcycle ,caliper, disc and mastercylinder and fab a lever to replace the hand lever that was on the handle bar???? SteveSr

I take back what I said,this has been dicussed before,hydraulic e-brakes won't work

SteveSr

Posted by: andys Feb 1 2005, 01:21 PM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 1 2005, 10:22 AM)

[QUOTE=BigD9146gt,Feb 1 2005, 10:15 AM] The problem with the Wilwood Spot calipers is that they are only for a .38" width rotor, so if you want to use it outboard on vented rotors, you'll have to open it up and make custom spacers....adding to the cost of the conversion.....

Spacers pretty easy to do on the Wilwood spot. Also, Rennegade Hybrids was making a spot caliper to fit a 914....I said WAS, as I couldn't find it anywhere on their site. There were some pic's of it floating around sometime back. Perhaps contact RH?

Andy

Posted by: cdmcse Feb 1 2005, 01:27 PM

Anybody know the width of a vented rotor and tolerances off the top of thier head?

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 1 2005, 01:31 PM

cdmcse, the early-SC (late 60?-83) vented is 20mm thick and the Carrera (84-89) is 24mm thick. The solid i'd have to guess on (10- 12mm?)

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 1 2005, 01:34 PM

inboard spot caliper idea rocks. arent 911 cv/axle setups shorter anyway? kill 2 birds with one stone. stronger axles with an ADAPTER/E BRAKE ROTOR would be fricken sweet.

where would you mount the caliper on the tranny??? braket from where?

Posted by: andys Feb 1 2005, 01:40 PM

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 11:34 AM)

inboard spot caliper idea rocks. arent 911 cv/axle setups shorter anyway? kill 2 birds with one stone. stronger axles with an ADAPTER/E BRAKE ROTOR would be fricken sweet. where would you mount the caliper on the tranny??? braket from where?

I like it too, but wouldn't you need a caliper on BOTH sides?

Andy

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 1 2005, 01:43 PM

EDIT: Bondo is right, the 911's are shorter than the 914... my bad.

Although it really is a great idea (the 60's-70's XKE jags had them inboard next to the diff), mounting would be your biggest hurdle. And on a minor side note, your adding more rotating mass.

If a mechanical brake kit costed $200 (just a straigh bolt on for both sides), would people even be interested? One off's are great and all, but for those who have this stuff on the drawing board, its gotta make sence ($$$). I agree some things are way over priced, but those who make this kind of stuff gotta pay bills too.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 1 2005, 01:43 PM

QUOTE (andys @ Feb 1 2005, 12:40 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 11:34 AM) inboard spot caliper idea rocks. arent 911 cv/axle setups shorter anyway? kill 2 birds with one stone. stronger axles with an ADAPTER/E BRAKE ROTOR  would be fricken sweet. where would you mount the caliper on the tranny??? braket from where? I like it too, but wouldn't you need a caliper on BOTH sides? Andy

sure... why not? or.... would one side work?

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 1 2005, 01:45 PM

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 12:43 PM)

Aaron, i'm 99.9% sure that they arn't shorter than the 914 axles. Although it really is a great idea (the 60's-70's XKE jags had them inboard next to the diff), mounting would be your biggest hurdle. And on a minor side note, your adding more rotating mass. If a mechanical brake kit costed $200 (just a straigh bolt on and go, would people even be interested? One off's are great and all, but for those who have this stuff on the drawing board, its gotta make sence ($$$). I agree some things are way over priced, but those who make this kind of stuff gotta pay bills too.

don,

i thought to run 911 axles, you needed a spacer (thus- the axles is shorter IIRC), if you could integrate this rotor into that spacer... you get beefier/newer CV's/Axles and a better parking brake.

also... 150 -200 for a truely bolt on kit would be cool (cables/calipers/rotor\spacer/ mounting plates)

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 1 2005, 01:46 PM

You don't absolutly need it on both sides, but as a kit, I think it would be more popular to everyone. But you could just supply one side for those who don't care about having two.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 1 2005, 01:48 PM

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 12:46 PM)

You don't absolutly need it on both sides, but as a kit, I think it would be more popular to everyone. But you could just supply one side for those who don't care about having two.

got me thinking too... maybe on the other side that doesnt have a clutch cable setup on it....


BTW- my dad had an XKE with the cool inboard brakes

Posted by: bondo Feb 1 2005, 01:49 PM

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 12:45 PM)

i thought to run 911 axles, you needed a spacer (thus- the axles is shorter IIRC), if you could integrate this rotor into that spacer... you get beefier/newer CV's/Axles and a better parking brake.

Yup they be shorter. I have a set. Spacers/adapters are probably .75 to 1 inch thick each (one on each end, 4 total)

Posted by: andys Feb 1 2005, 02:24 PM

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 1 2005, 11:45 AM)

also... 150 -200 for a truely bolt on kit would be cool (cables/calipers/rotor\spacer/ mounting plates)

The Wilwood spot calipers alone are about $60 each (consumer price). Add cost of rotors, cables, custom brackets. Even at dealer prices, you'd go broke selling them for $150.

Andy

Posted by: scooter311 Feb 1 2005, 02:36 PM

SteveSr got me thinking (there I go working without tools again):

Some ATV's have mechanical disc brakes (Yamaha Blaster I think for example), and also the rears on larger ATVs (my 400EX Honda) has a hydraulic/mechanical setup that is much beefier. As a matter of fact, the mechanical portion of it is just an actuating arm and long cable that runs up to the clutch lever. It works independantly of the hydraulic system, and is a simple design. Most guys even remove it completely because they never use it.

The caliper itself doens't look much different from the Brembo one, and can be had from any ATV salvage joint cheaply, as well as the rotor. It would seem only a spacer would have to be fabbed up somehow.

BUT, I'm a doofus, and that was just a doofus idea, and maybe someone else knows what I'm talking about and say "Hey, I know what he's talking about.."

Posted by: SteveSr Feb 1 2005, 02:45 PM

QUOTE (scooter311 @ Feb 1 2005, 12:36 PM)

.BUT, I'm a doofus, and that was just a doofus idea,

No scooter311, I think it would work. After I posted that I was talking to some ATV riders here at work and they said the same thing. The older ATVs had mechanical disc brakes on the back. I don't know if they would be powerful enough to be used as an e-brake,but would definatly work as a parking brake.

SteveSr

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 1 2005, 07:38 PM

here is my brainstorm i had while in calculus class.....

mount the caliper so that the pads can be changed from underneath the car....


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Posted by: redshift Feb 1 2005, 07:45 PM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jan 31 2005, 11:56 PM)

Doing some "surf'n" and came across these being installed on an Audi A4 I never knew that they made a parking brake caliper...

Is that thing giving birth to that other thing? Do doctors work on Audis?



M

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 1 2005, 07:47 PM

Wow, that is pretty well thought out and looks like it would work.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 1 2005, 07:49 PM

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 1 2005, 06:47 PM)

Wow, that is pretty well thought out and looks like it would work.

i r not dooing math when I r supposed too.....

anything is possible on paper.... this looks pretty simple....

Posted by: bondo Feb 1 2005, 07:53 PM

That looks pretty much like my plan for mounting the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) for my LT1 conversion. The rotor would be replaced with a custom toothed wheel, and the caliper would be replaced with the VSS.

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Feb 1 2005, 08:37 PM

Wilwood also makes a drum brake setup like the 911 ebrake.
I looked at using a motorcycle disk on the transaxle flange with some kind of spot caliber a couple of years ago,but gave up on the idea. Not much room to work with.

Posted by: scott thacher Feb 1 2005, 08:41 PM

aaron, your drawing is basicly what i thought of when i made the 4 post on this thread. i would not put it on the bottom of the rotor, due to water, grease etc dripping and collecting there. not grease would not let them work any but better be safe. and as a parking brake i doubt we would ever have to change the pads in the life of the car.

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Feb 1 2005, 09:24 PM

Hey guys and gals, I'll be finishing off the Wilwood e-brake set for the 914 this month.
I've actually been waiting for some news to break here on the 914 board --and just buy the kit--but impatient as ever I've built (2) sets for two cars / myself and a good cust'r. The kits operate on brackets that mount to the trailing arm (bolt-on), and allow the wilwood to float (required design). OE cables go thru new support brkts and we are using 986 rears (on Rich Johnson adapters ) with 911 vented rotors. The unit sits accross from the main brake caliper, like the new Carrera GT.
Unfortunately , these will be working prototypes--not a sale item until we do some tool and die work for alum castings...as these are made from C/R steel and carry lots of unneccessary weight . No jpegs...but the 2 cars should be at Willow Springs @ WCC '05. I could'nt make these from steel @$150.00 a set> too much fab work, however casting out of alum. will bring the price into reality.
BTW, the Brembo setup was dominant on just about every Euro exotic at the L. A. Autoshow last month. Kinda funny how each mfg. mounts their ebrake at a different position !
MF

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 1 2005, 09:40 PM

Maltese, you wouldn't happen to have a drawing of your 935 fan setup would you?

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Feb 1 2005, 11:34 PM

Don, I've adapted the horizontal fan "As is" from the OE 935 set up (aka 911/78 at the factory). The only required fab work were: bulkhead clearence for the outboard alternator; alt.support brkt ; 4 way oil feed line for (2) turbos, fan drive and OP switch; and an engine oil cooler shroud. I did all of the work w/o any factory diagrams > I'm sure they're avail, here's a teaser , I'll try to post a jpeg here


*resized it for you*


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Posted by: Mueller Feb 2 2005, 12:20 AM

do you have any sound files of that motor?

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 07:21 AM

Here's the scoop on my parkbrake setup.

About 2 years ago, I built a prototype setup for a parkbrake that uses the Wilwood spot caliper. I even went as far as putting it on my wife's 914 for testing. It works fine. You can see picts of the prototype http://www.perrinefamily.org/parkbrake.htm.

I took the prototype to a swap meet a Zim's locally. I wanted to see what kind of response I would get if I decided to build it.

I got 2 people who were interested.


The prototype parts went into the parts pile in my garage.

I am building a 944 turbo caliper mount for my car. I am building one other set for a friend.

IT will use a Wilwood spot caliper for the park brake. The wilwood caliper can be bought with spacers to use any sized rotor.


As for the inboard park brake. It could be done real easy. Just buy a rotor, and weld it to the output flange on the trans. make a bracket, and install the caliper. ONe caliper would be fine for a park brake.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 07:26 AM

Here's a picture of the protorype 944 turbo caliper mount with park brake for a 914. The finished ones are being done by a machinist on cnc mills.

Posted by: iamchappy Feb 2 2005, 07:27 AM

Marty,
As long as were off topic, I am considering an intercooler for my setup, could you post pictures of yours and how you managed the trunk lid.

Chap

Posted by: James Adams Feb 2 2005, 07:30 AM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 1 2005, 01:22 PM)

The problem with the Wilwood Spot calipers is that they are only for a .38" width rotor, so if you want to use it outboard on vented rotors, you'll have to open it up and make custom spacers....adding to the cost of the conversion.....

I think you are looking at the hydraulic spot caliper.

The mechanical Wilwood spot caliper will is available for 0.81" (20.6mm) thick rotor - #120-2280 (right) and 120-2281 (left).

Posted by: iamchappy Feb 2 2005, 07:31 AM

Ive been considering the e brake for some time now. Since I also have the turbo brakes your install should make mine that much simpler.

Posted by: 94teener Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM

A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install.


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Posted by: joea9146 Feb 2 2005, 09:45 AM

Looks great.... Did you Fabricate the Bracket ?
Is the Spot Caliper Mechanical ?

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Feb 2 2005, 09:46 AM

Clay, you're right on the money with needing only one spot caliper to stop the car...on my 930 turbo a small 1/8"section of the ebrake spring broke off inside the drum and you could NOT even push the car
Sound byte of the horiz fan will eventually be on the msdsinc. site> working on it.
It does idle with about 80 Db of evilness
Chap, since we're so off topic, PM me and I'll give you some good pointers on the IC set-up. If you want to go thru (cut) the trunk lid, start with a donor trunk !
Marty

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 09:50 AM

QUOTE (94teener @ Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM)

A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install.

That is the parkbrake setup that I took to the swap meet. It was to be a bolt on, but no intrerest.

I can resurrect the project if I get some interest. I still have the CNC file to make it.


So how many of you would be interested?

Posted by: joea9146 Feb 2 2005, 10:04 AM

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 2 2005, 11:50 AM)

QUOTE (94teener @ Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM) A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install. That is the parkbrake setup that I took to the swap meet. It was to be a bolt on, but no intrerest. I can resurrect the project if I get some interest. I still have the CNC file to make it. So how many of you would be interested?

If you are talking about the Bracket in the Picture posted by 94Teener I would be Interested in a Kit to do one Wheel

Posted by: skline Feb 2 2005, 10:06 AM

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 2 2005, 07:50 AM)

QUOTE (94teener @ Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM) A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install. That is the parkbrake setup that I took to the swap meet. It was to be a bolt on, but no intrerest. I can resurrect the project if I get some interest. I still have the CNC file to make it. So how many of you would be interested?

I would be interested in it Clay, I like Aarons idea also but I started thinking if it was pulled inadvertently while driving, it could and probably would rip the side out of the tranny. It was never meant for outward pressure like that. It might work for a 4 cylinder car but the weight of the V8 may kill it. I could be wrong though. But what if I am not.

Posted by: BigD9146gt Feb 2 2005, 10:39 AM

Clay.... DAMN!!! That steel contraption! Talk about sprung weight!!!!

But i like the idea. I have something along the same lines but just for the spot caliper.

Maltese, I spoke with you a few years back at the GAF... you had just completed that motor, i remember most of the details.

Do you know where to find a drawing of that fan setup?

Posted by: andys Feb 2 2005, 11:41 AM

Clay,

Any pic's of how the stock cable attaches or is adapted to the Wilwood spot caliper? I'm not clear on how the lever position works with the position of the cable.

Andy

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 11:45 AM

The caliper in the picture is on the wrong side of the car. The lever actually comes out the other side.

Then I made a rod to go from the cable to the caliper arm, and a spring to pull it to the released position.


Sorry... never took a picture of that.

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 2 2005, 12:58 PM

What brake setup will be required on the rear to utilize that Clay? Not all of us have the same rear brakes due to upgrades and what not.

I am not even sure which brakes I have, but if the price is right, I am down, if it will work. All I would need would be the bracket, I can outsource the rest of the stuff, if that is okay.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 01:32 PM

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 2 2005, 12:58 PM)

What brake setup will be required on the rear to utilize that Clay? Not all of us have the same rear brakes due to upgrades and what not. I am not even sure which brakes I have, but if the price is right, I am down, if it will work. All I would need would be the bracket, I can outsource the rest of the stuff, if that is okay.

All I would be selling is the pair of brackets. You have to set the spacers correctly to put the spot caliper in the middle of the rotor.

The brackets are made to bolt in on top of the factory 3" bolt spacing. You use longer bolts, and put the park brake bracket on top of the caliper. The type of main caliper doesn't matter.

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 2 2005, 01:44 PM

So how much do you think the bracket is going to cost? It will come with an assortment of spacers I assume? Even if I have to file down to make it perfect, that is fine.

I like this idea a lot.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 01:55 PM

It won't come with spacers. If I do this, it will be just the brackets. The spacers are from the local Ace Hardware store. The brackets are made from 6061-T6 aluminum, and the holes are tapped for M-8 x1.25 bolts.


I may just get the G-code files and put them here for anyone to grab.

Posted by: Mueller Feb 2 2005, 02:06 PM

Hey Clay...

1:1 scale copies in a word or pdf file could be posted as well...not too hard to make that with hand tools if you don't mind working up a sweat

I should have my CNC mill running again in a few weeks if you can wait that long......(as long as I don't break anything else again...pretty sad, 2 CNC mills and both are broken )

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 2 2005, 02:38 PM

If they are that easily accessible (the spacers) then that's fine. Not sure where I could get the bracket made, but maybe Mueller will be up for the task? Please?

Posted by: Mueller Feb 2 2005, 02:43 PM

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 2 2005, 01:38 PM)

If they are that easily accessible (the spacers) then that's fine. Not sure where I could get the bracket made, but maybe Mueller will be up for the task? Please?

..it's Clays design and idea, I wouldn't sell them directly, I'd rather send them him and let him pass them on....depending on the thickness, I probebly have material at home for a few sets......

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 2 2005, 02:45 PM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 2 2005, 01:43 PM)

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 2 2005, 01:38 PM) If they are that easily accessible (the spacers) then that's fine. Not sure where I could get the bracket made, but maybe Mueller will be up for the task? Please? ..it's Clays design and idea, I wouldn't sell them directly, I'd rather send them him and let him pass them on....depending on the thickness, I probebly have material at home for a few sets......

so we gave up on the idea of an inboard mounted brake?

iclays solution looks cool too.... adds sprung weight though... hmmm... what if you made the wilwood caliper mount on top of the rotor, so less bracket material is needed....

EDIT: Duh... like this

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 2 2005, 02:48 PM

EDIT2: also... who made the above one?

EDIT3: also...with clays solution, you need to remove the hub.... new bearings

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 2 2005, 02:49 PM

I'm not gonna argue over a couple pounds of unsprung weight. I doubt I will ever notice it.

Mueller, that is cool, the important part is getting the bracket made. I don't care if we export it to the chinese, if it is going to still be reasonably priced, then I don't care who sells it or makes it.

Of course it is Clay's design, so I rather him at least get something for it.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 02:55 PM

The caliper mounts UNDER the rotor. That way you can hook the link up to the cable with the cable mounted in the original location. No custom cable, just a rod to connect to the caliper arm.

The bearing and calipers don't have to be removed, just the bolts that hold the caliper on. Then you replace them with grade-8 bolts that are longer. The park brake caliper bracket acts as a washer.

The material is 1/2 thick 6061-t6 aluminum plate.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 2 2005, 02:57 PM

okay. thanks clay. that looks like a winning solution so what should we expect to pay for a set of brackets, and 2 wilwood calipers? do we need longer cables?

/4 front son the back with the super spot calipers....or even boxsters

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 2 2005, 03:00 PM

I am not going to supply the calipers. You have to find them from Wilwood.

As for the brackets, that would be up to the machinist.

No, you don't have to put longer cables on it. Just a rod with a ball end to hook the factory cable to the caliper.

Posted by: andys Feb 2 2005, 03:41 PM

Clay,

Another question came to mind. How does the amount of pull necessary to activate the spot caliper work with the travel of the stock 914 hand brake lever cable travel?

Bet you never thought you'd generate so much interest after so much time.......Bet you wish you had a dozen sets of brackets already made up!!

BTW, thanks for fielding so many questions.

Andy

P.S. Wilwood does not show the mechanical spot caliper on their Site. A quick phone call confirmed that they still stock them....Apparently when they originally removed them from their site, they got a bunch of calls, so they will re-post them soon. P/N 120-2280(P) for .81" rotor RH, and P/N 120-2281(P) for .81" rotor LH.

Posted by: Mueller Feb 2 2005, 04:07 PM

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/023-SFM/index.asp


Here you go....takes a while to navigate it.....

and the suggested price list:

http://www.wilwood.org/racerpricelist.pdf

Posted by: andys Feb 2 2005, 05:39 PM

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 2 2005, 02:07 PM)

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/023-SFM/index.asp Here you go....takes a while to navigate it..... and the suggested price list: http://www.wilwood.org/racerpricelist.pdf

Mike,

That's the wrong one. The one in your link is the hydraulic one. You want the "MECHANICAL SPOT CALIPER." See above; the correct P/N is 120-22XX (XX depending on which width you choose).

Andy

Posted by: Mueller Feb 2 2005, 05:42 PM

dang, you are right...time for a visit to my eye doctor

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 3 2005, 07:05 AM

QUOTE (andys @ Feb 2 2005, 03:41 PM)

Clay, Another question came to mind. How does the amount of pull necessary to activate the spot caliper work with the travel of the stock 914 hand brake lever cable travel? Bet you never thought you'd generate so much interest after so much time.......Bet you wish you had a dozen sets of brackets already made up!! BTW, thanks for fielding so many questions. Andy P.S. Wilwood does not show the mechanical spot caliper on their Site. A quick phone call confirmed that they still stock them....Apparently when they originally removed them from their site, they got a bunch of calls, so they will re-post them soon. P/N 120-2280(P) for .81" rotor RH, and P/N 120-2281(P) for .81" rotor LH.

When I had them hooked up on Betty's car, the handle did not move as much as the factory park brake. I put the pull on the inside hole to make it pull the longest distance. I was able to get it on the ratchet 2 notches. but that will depend on the cable adjustment on the car. More slack in the cable will let it pull farther up the ratchet. Personally, I don't want the park brake handle too high. I don't want to neuter myself getting in the car.


I am going to contact my machinist about making a run of them. I will see how much he wants to do them.

Posted by: DuckRyder Feb 3 2005, 07:25 AM

That looks intresting. I do have one question as far as parking brake.

For rear calipers without parking brakes why not just install a line lock solinoid in the rear line. Press foot brake, push line lock, release brake.

Instant parking brake!

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 3 2005, 07:37 AM

QUOTE (DuckRyder @ Feb 3 2005, 07:25 AM)

That looks intresting. I do have one question as far as parking brake. For rear calipers without parking brakes why not just install a line lock solinoid in the rear line. Press foot brake, push line lock, release brake. Instant parking brake!

Two problems.

1. Most states (Texas is one) require a mechanical park brake to pass the state inspection statue. A line lock is not a mechanical park brake.

2. A line lock will bleed off pressure over time leaving your car rolling down the hill.

Posted by: DuckRyder Feb 3 2005, 08:26 AM

Ahh I see,

1) Isn't a problem here

2) I suppose that might be a problem in "long term" parking, I was thinking of "short term" parking



Carry on....

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 3 2005, 08:42 AM

When I said "over time" I mean within an hour. Most line locks are meant to hold a drag racer at the line for a burnout. They aren't meant to be used for more than a few minutes.

Get a real mechanical park brake, or use a brick to chock the wheels.

Posted by: andys Feb 3 2005, 08:34 PM

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 3 2005, 06:42 AM)

When I said "over time" I mean within an hour. Most line locks are meant to hold a drag racer at the line for a burnout. They aren't meant to be used for more than a few minutes. Get a real mechanical park brake, or use a brick to chock the wheels.

There is much agreement amongst the kit car and replica builders that line locks' are not safe, legal, or dependable. Basically, no one uses them.

Clay, I looked under my car to get re-acquanted with exactly how things look underneath the swing arm, etc. I see that the parking brake cable anchor (bulkhead) is angled so as to line-up with the caliper lever. With the spot caliper, the anchor would have to be re-located so that the cable would make a straight shot to its' lever. Also, the cable appears to be nearly long enough to extend to the new caliper. How did you re-locate the cable anchor, and about how long was the "adapter rod?"

This whole spot caliper thread I read with great interest, as I was originally going to adapt a complete Carrera rear braking system, including the parking brake drum set up. The spot caliper greatly simplifies the whole cable routing issue, which I always considered a pain to adapt to when compared to the spot.

Andy

Posted by: DuckRyder Feb 3 2005, 09:33 PM

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 3 2005, 10:42 AM)

Get a real mechanical park brake, or use a brick to chock the wheels.

Got it.

Running stock calipers with working parking brakes...

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 4 2005, 07:36 AM

I did not change the angle of the park brake cable mount. All I did was put a rod in that ran from the park brake caliper to the cable. The cable would pull at an angle, but it worked fine.

Posted by: joea9146 Feb 14 2005, 08:58 AM

Hi Clay Any Update on Getting this Bracket machined ?

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 14 2005, 09:38 AM

I have not had time to even think about it.

Posted by: iiibdsiil Feb 14 2005, 11:29 AM

Well, get your priorities straight! Oh wait, apparently they are. Lol. Seriously though, take your time, we haven't had parking brakes for this long, a little longer isn't gonna hurt. I hate to be rushed, so of course there's not way that I am going to rush someone that is doing a favor.

Posted by: Mueller Feb 14 2005, 12:46 PM

I ended up getting a deal on a pair of early 911 trailing arms w/the drum parking brake assembly.....going this route instead, should be easier/more cost effective with less parts to deal with

Posted by: racer3822 Feb 17 2014, 01:31 PM

I am working of a rear end setup with some similar parts of a 914 and saw this parking brake setup. I am in need of a parking brake and am getting ready to cut out my own parts to make it work when I saw this. Is anyone still using it? I emailed Clay and haven't heard from him, but would love to purchase one of these or get the CNC files to have my local guy make one.

Thanks for any help. Love what you guys are doing on this forum, it's pretty awesome. I can't believe I'm resurrecting a 9 year old thread but this adapter plate is really cool.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 17 2014, 02:45 PM

That idea was scrapped. We put a set on a car, and if you set the park brake with the rotor hot, it took a hammer to get the park brake to release.

Posted by: steuspeed Feb 17 2014, 03:19 PM

How is this not a problem on the supercar installations?

Posted by: Marty Yeoman Feb 17 2014, 03:31 PM

Posted by: racer3822 Feb 17 2014, 03:43 PM

I have heard this happen before. I'm not planning on using the emergency brake often, I need it more for legal purposes and as a true "emergency" brake. The car I bought is using a line lock and that's not going to cut it. I need some sort of solution, been researching awhile and found some other solutions that work similar, but none that bolt on to the outside of the caliper and are offset back in like you designed.

Here is one that is promising, but uses the caliper itself for mounting by Kirkwood:

Here is another from LevyRacing that uses the same mount that the caliper mounts to, but I don't want to reweld my trailing arm bracket:

Since you aren't producing these anymore, any chance I can get the G-Code for it? It would make my life easier and I'm not the best with cad.