The annoying fuel pump noise isn't coming on when the key is turned on. I tried a couple of times to see if it would start, no luck. The car has a new fuel pump relay. What do I need to check first?
BTW, the FP noise is really nice when the car is running....
Thanks,
Rick
You need to check for power at the fuse, relay and at the fuel pump.
Rick,
Hot wire the fuel pump to be sure it is working. Then go from there.
steve
Tanks guys. Where is the fuse? The relay was replaced before it stopped working. My car is a 75 1.8 with original FI.
Thanks, but the pump has run whenever the key has been turned since I got it. Is something wired wrong? Haven't had the car that long so not sure what it's supposed to do.
Is there a separate fuse for the pump or only the relay?
before i got carried away id check for voltage at the pump key on and cranking.
Then work my way back rather than hot wire stuff.
That could cause damage...
Yes it was the relay by the battery, sorry didn't answer the question!
Rick
So did the fuel pump run all the time that the key was turned on? If so it sounds like someone hot wired the fuel pump. This is common for carburator cars but for FI it shows there is an issue with the wiring and/or FI System.
A lot of people hot wire the fuel pump to run directly off the coil. Do you notice any homemade wiring in the engine bay?
The best way though is to trace the wires from the fuel pump and see where they go and compare it to a factory wiring diagram since it sounds like there is some "custom" wiring.
If you could care less about the custom repairs and simply want it to run then you should see if you have 12V+ at the terminals on the fuel pump. That will at least tell you if you have a bad fuel pump.
Also if you want to do some reading on the correct way the fuel pump gets its power, then this great thread talks in detail about that dual relay you replaced by the battery.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=334340
Thanks Doug. I will check that link. Noticed you have a Mars Hill address. I am a '77 graduate from there, but it was a college and not a university in the old days.
Merry Christmas,
Rick
Steve, is there a separate fuse for the fuel pump? If so, where is it located?
Thanks,
Rick
if you wire it backwards it wont run.
I haven't had the pump disconnected so haven't messed with any wiring. Do you know if there is a separate fuse for the pump and where it's located?
Thanks,
Rick
On the relay board in the engine bay there are two fuses. The rearward one should be a 25A and it is the fuse for the fuel pump.
what year is your car? has the fuel pump been moved from the stock location? i've never quite understood how the fuel pumps get powered when moved from the rear to the front and utilize the stock circuitry.
My car is a 75 with the 1.8L, so the fuel pump is already in the front trunk. Is there a way to check the fuses on the relay board? Really appreciate the help.
Rick
You should be able to visually look at the fuse and see if it's blown. I usually twist it back and forth a little bit in case it's making poor contact in its holder.
Relay board is irrelevant, power comes from the dual relay, which comes from the battery. Here's the question, do you want the fuel pump wired and working like the original, or do you want it to be activated with the key on?
I'm just trying to get my car reliable and originality isn't a big deal to me unless that results in the best reliability. My car will never be a concours vehicle.
I pulled all the fuses from the board, there was what looked like corrosion which I cleaned and put them back, still no power to the pump. Is there a way to test the relay, it's probably about a month old!
Thanks,
Rick
Post some pics of what you have. If the pump was wired by the PO to be on with the key, it's hard to speculate what he did or where he tied in to get power for your fuel pump. The relay board has nothing to do with the fuel pump, unless the PO tied into it somehow. For what it is worth, I think the oem wiring setup is the best way to go. Otherwise you are drawing excessive current thru the ignition switch, which wasn't designed for the extra load of the fuel pump.
Thanks to all for the advice, the problem turned out to be bad wires at the pump on the positive side. Easy fix and cheap!
Happy Holidays to all,
Rick
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