Bought a 71 1.7 liter today.
Car is in relatively good shape as far as I can tell.
Likely some hell hole and rear portion of the back trunk rust repair needed, but appears to be minor.
Time will tell.
My current plans are to get the fuel system and FI sorted out (me).
It cranks over, but doesn't start.
Then go through the brakes from stem to stern (PMB).
After that....drive it.
The original color is light ivory, but has had a repaint in pearl white years ago.
Will get the body work done and do a proper respray.
I've already got a set of 15x6.5" Minilites to install.
The suspension will get a good going over....likely Elephant Racing setup.
Re-do the interior with a more supportive driver's seat.
Refreshed gauges (Hollywood Speedo) in 356 fashion.
Double wrapped RS steering wheel.
GT lightwt door panels.
Eventually, a bigger four will power the car.
Would like to keep it all 4 cylinder for the time being.
I've already got a 911 sitting in the garage that tics all the 911 boxes off.
I'll keep a log of the progress here with pics.
This is a big, big project.....no doubt.
I like the pearl!! Best of luck with it.
Post more pics when you can (I love pics).
Beautiful car, man! Congrats!!
Congratulations and it seems like you have a nice plan.
Nice...the Panasports are going to look great!
Bedside reading ....................
Coming tomorrow night?
Where'd you find the car? Looks good from here
Good looking 914! For what you plan being a big big project, seems like a very good start.
...And from the looks of it, you might have been infected by with our disease...
As you probably know, plenty of good support on this forum.
Good luck with your project
Well....starting looking at what I have a little closer today.
Very solid car for a '71.
But I think it spent most of its life in California....so I'm hoping very little rust.
I do see a new rear floor in the rear trunk.
Right now it's all painted black, so I'm sure there's rust issues there.
Also see the corners of the front windshield will need a little work as I see rust stains in the front trunk up under the dash. Nothing horrible, but it will definitely need to be addressed.
I've been told by the previous owner that the hell looks good except for a small quarter size hole that's already been repaired. I'll improve upon it.
My plans are to do these instruments....
Ala 356 style.
And these kind of seats...
Probably go identical driver/passenger later style 914.
With the cool green tartan plaid.
And just carpet the rear firewall....cause my firewall upholstery is kind of old and mucked up.
hey....I'm getting better at adding these pics into the thread. Nice....
I'll do a set of the cool fiberglass/balsa wood front and rear deck lids from Aase just to keep the car light weight.
Along with the two toned front bumper.
So I'm thinking about a narrow body GT that is still all 914-4.
Later will come a nice 901 with limited slip and some good gear ratios.
And a nice big block 4 cylinder....something in the range of 2.5-2.8 that is either carbed or FI'd with a good header going thru a Phase 9 muffler.
Engine will be done by either Jake Raby or Fat Performance (any thoughts in either way?) looking at around 175hp.
I love this car....
How close I get to it remains to be seen.
It's pretty radical.
I'd like a nice fun street driver.
The early cars are my favorites. I'd like to figure out a cable shift for the tail shifter.
Gotta love '71's! Had mine since new... looks pretty "stock" but has had MANY mods over the years! Probably best is conversion to side shifter with a Rennshift and OEM 914-6 suspension and brake upgrade to 5 bolt and Fuchs. Luckily I did that back in the mid '70's when you find all the parts pretty easily.
BTW, love the Minilites!!
I guess I'm the only reader who noticed the Vespa against the wall in picture #1. 150, GS...?
I like the 356 instrument idea. Aren't they a bit smaller than the OEM for the 914?
So Cary picked up my chassis this past week, and he'll begin working on it after the 4th as he's still finishing up on Mark's car.
The car has been hit in the back so needs a new rear end and rear trunk floor. Also the back portions of the floor pans will need replacing....likely the rear window was leaking as the gasket was as hard as a brick back there.
Both jack plates need replacing but the "longs" look good as does the hell hole. Further digging by Cary will either confirm or refute this.
In addition, there is some corrosion in the cowl area where the windshield spacers were along the lower part....if that makes sense.
Otherwise, a pretty good chassis.
Cary will show some pics as he attacks this car with his usual fervor.
So I spent most of 2015....here and there....tearing the car completely apart.
I was out of the country from Jan-Apr 2016, so haven't had that much time to work on the car.
But I have been going through some of the different subsystems and refreshing or buying NOS or better used parts than I currently had.
Had some of the hardware replated by Shaun of Tru6 from the Early 911 S Registry.
Artful work he does if that's what you want....and I did.
I've got another big batch going to his soon.
He does both the yellow and clear zinc coating.
Perfection for sure...
I sourced a 2.4 T MFI motor from Australia of all places.
The engine originally came from the US.
Supposedly low miles....yada yada.
Not so sure about that, but it had the 7R case and all the MFI components.
So I was in.
Real adventure shipping it from Australia to the US.
Took about 6 months by boat, tough to get all the paperwork done, customs, EPA, you name it.
A royal PITA...but it finally arrived by plane from LA into Portland.
Of course, you'd have to have the mouse nest sitting on top of the cylinders to be complete.
And the dead mouse as well.
Guess he got free shipping and airfare around the globe a couple of times.
Good thing we didn't try to fire this engine up.
Would have ran hot for sure.
MFI requires a CDI unit, so I sourced a used one that was unknown condition.
Out to Parts Klassic it went.
All the ancient electronics were removed and replaced by modern solid state electronics.
Bought their matching coil and wiring harness made for Pertronix ignition.
The hope is for better reliability and performance/starting manners.
The day has finally come to start on Doug's car. Best we can tell it's a pretty solid car. But we won't know the truth until all the paint comes off.
The parts that are here on site were unloaded and labeled.
Initial list :
1. Replace rear tail light panel with donor.
2. Replace rear half of trunk floor. With removable heat shield
3. Install 6 motor mount
4. Cut out holes for 6 oil tank
5. Replace back portion of floorboard
6. Make passenger seat adjustable like later cars
7. Install fiberglass wood framed GT hoods
8. Make minor seal channel rust repairs on both doors.
9. See if we can do some rust repairs on both valances
Plan is to have the car stripped here on site. History has it, the list will probably get a little longer after it's stripped.
So time to dive in the deep end. I take a few minutes to survey the donor tail light panel. The rusted off trunk panel is a little concerning at first glance.
Here's why we're changing out the tail light panel and the rear half of trunk.
The rusty old trunk came out/off without any issues.
So on to removing the qtr. panel corners. Once again I'm using Rick's grind down and pop off spot weld removal technique. I've given it my own twist. To eliminate as much damage as I can to the piece/panel we're going to reuse. I cut down the welds on the side that will be discarded with the 3" die grinder on a mandrel. Like so ...............
I did drill an 1/8" hole in each spot weld to make sure I didn't miss any spot welds. This section is 3 layers thick in places.
Once again, to eliminate potential damage I take things out in 2-3 inches sections. You can see the remaining section of the rusty old trunk floor next to the support.
At the end of the day it came out relatively easy. A couple nicks, cuts and tears to weld up. But it's in good shape.
Tomorrow I'll get out the steam cleaner and get all the grease cleaned off. Then maybe I'll blast the paint off. That will be followed by getting the torch out to remove the corner tail light brazing.
Plan is to work on Doug's car thru the end of next week. I'm off for 2 weeks while my new boss takes a 2 week vacation in France. He'll be watching some of our engines and transmission perform at the Le mans Classic.
After that I'll work 2-3 days per week on one car. Then 2-3 days the next week on the other car. Basically working 20 hours per week at my shop and 24 at Rothsport.
that replated hardware pics...a spot-the-difference puzzle :-)
really cool pics and took some time to create, I guess that was your way of checking that all was there after the replating. Otherwise you have some disorder to do that :-) nice job !
Excellent thread. I like what I see so far.
I decide its time to start using the plasma cutter for the cutting tasks its designed for.
Steve, one of my co-workers at Rothsport said changing the tip every time you use it is the primary issue I've been having. Easy Deal ....................
Big bite .........................
I discover that a portion of the tow hook brace is missing on the donor panel. I'll need to cut it off the original tail light panel piece.
There's a couple wicked welds were the tube is welded to the support frame. I'll have to see if I can delicately cut them out with new plasma cutting skills.
Then on to removing the exhaust shield from the old trunk panel.
Then I discover that the last person that removed the exhaust shield didn't have a MIG welder. The supports were brazed to the bottom of the trunk panel.
So they have to be separated with a torch.
Get that done and then run the stand offs thru the bead blaster. They'll need a little refurbishing.
Then I decide that the exhaust shield needs to be taken outside and sand blasted. It's filthy. Covered in oil and dirt.
After the dirt and oil are removed it looks like its been beat on with a hammer.
I did remove all the odds and ends off the old tail light panel. You never know what one might need in the future.
We did extract the other hole plug. Have the template ready to go.
I think I'll pick up the compass gadget for the plasma cutter.
Monday AM :
Pulled out the torch cart and started with the remainder of the left tail light panel.
The car had been hit in the rear and been poorly repaired on the past. The entire tail light panel was brazed in, not welded.
Then started working my way around the remainder of the trunk panel.
Then on to removing the center reinforcement panel.
Making my way into the right corner. We're finding the inner fender above the trunk panel is pretty wrinkled on both sides.
I may look at cutting both back corners out of my parts car. We need the fender support straps too.
End of the day ......................... got farther than I thought I would.
Doug stopped by to check on the progress and go out to lunch.
Nice job Cary.
You're developing "mad" skills as they say.
Mostly patience....which I would be in low supply I think.
Thanks for your great work.
Came in this am and did some more examining of the wrinkles in the trunk corners and some magnetic testing on the qtr. panels.
While I'm digesting my research I begin removing the corner braces and refurnishing them.
This time I run into lead and brazing.
After finishing the corner braces I move onto the exhaust stand offs. Three or four needed some welding, but pretty simple stuff. All drilled and ready for welding on the nuts in the am.
I decided before I start cutting on the trunk I'll sand down the back corners of the qtr. panels to check the less than stellar previous workmanship. From the inside of the fender it feels like the previous shop didn't own a hammer and dolly. Which means we have quite a bit of filler. Lazy ........... But only dimples, no creases.
Mark stopped by so I ran out of time and sunshine .................
Super In Law finished up the rack and we filled it up.
We'll need to create a wall racks for the valances. They're too wide. But other than that it turned out great.
Short day ...................spent the am at Rothsport doing a little housekeeping.
Got there after an early lunch and rolled her outside for some media blasting.
Looks like we'll be needing a couple lower back qtr. panel corners.
Mud in the dimples ....................
Right side, not much better.
Filled with mud, rather than repairing.
Better shot of how rippled the left fender is.
Now that I can see the entirety of the inside corners I think I should be able to doctor them up. I'll start with hammer and dolly and see if we can make them presentable.
In the end they get completely smothered in seam sealer.
I'll let Doug look for some qtr. panel patches and I'll get back to the trunk and tail light panel.
Edit : Forgot we can cut the right one off my parts car. Left was butchered for a flare install that never happened.
Start the day with trimming the trunk panel. Not an exact cut. I leave about 1/4 too long.
Then I give it a test fit.
Left seems about like normal.
Right side, not so much. Giant hole.
Poorly done repair.
I make the decision that cutting the same section out of my parts car is the best answer. Creating the bottom lip would take too long.
Cut it out large. Then took it to the bench and removed the trunk floor portion.
Trimmed off the top.
Short episode of Tool Whore. My new full size helmet. Oh baby ................
Everything I'd hope it would be. No interference from the flood lights.
Feel asleep while writing the post.
Early start and a great time with the guys at our monthly Burgers & Beer gathering.
So in goes the patch after the usual fiddling and fussing. Trim, grind, repeat. Trim, grind, repeat. Had to make extra cuts to reshape the existing panel. They hammered the crap out of it.
After I finish welding in the patch. Here's the next challenge.
Going to try something a little different with welding in the sides of the trunk pan this time. Rosette welds on the front portion. Then in the back where we have the gap. Instead of rebuilding them I'll bend/fold them over and tack weld the top edge.
Once again, they'll be smothered in seam seam.
Doug asked last night if we'd be better off looking for another car. My response. These cars are 50 years and weren't cherished in their early lives. Pretty certain most every car will have some issues. X-ray vision would be nice, so you could see under the paint and seam sealer.
What a dumbass ...................... I have Doug surfing the web looking for fenders and I have what we need hanging on the rack. We're only going to use the front portion of Mark's qtrs. on his car.
Here's a shot of the buggered up tail light panel frame.
Finish welding in the donor patch.
Then I do some tinkering on the back end of the qtr. panel. They hammered out the crease. . Why ?
Might be changing it out too ...............
Then I test fit the tail light panel. Other than bottom portions on both sides, it fits real well.
Next I cut out the trunk panel for the pan plugs.
Doug stopped by after lunch to drop of the hoods. 2 old metal ones. And the new fiberglass rear trunk. Cool
He ordered me a new exhaust shield. The other is too bent up. Who knows
Seeings that this will be his touring car. He's looking at having the shield ceramic coated to keep the heat down in the trunk.
Sent Mark an email about using the back half of the his qtr. panels hanging in the rack.
Just got back my newly recovered steering wheel from Autobahn Interiors.
Did the double wrap in leather.
Pricey but "oh-so nice."
They found that part of the wheel had been broken in the past so there was some welding repair necessary that is all hidden by the new grip.
Also just received from Hungary (less than 10 day shipping) a nice Hockey Puck reproduction that really looks great for the money.
Total of $170 (plus shipping which wasn't bad).
Got it off the "Bird" from a guy named Antony.
Easy transaction (Paypal I think) and received the item pretty quick.
Will definitely dress up the interior of the car when complete....
Man you are moving right along. Terrific work.
I may have to look up the hockey puck guy....really want one of those on my car. OK - I sent him a PM on the Bird and told him I want one and sent him my info. A moment of weakness....
OH BTW, really love the yellow foglight lenses.
Here is the left inside trunk corner cut out from the parts car.
Here's the ugly, over hammered and bumpy section I'm cutting out.
After some measuring, trimming, fiddling and fitting. Its ready to weld in on Thursday.
As I was working on the inside of the trunk. Super In Law went to work on repairing the butchered up tow hook framework.
He's building the extension rather than cutting up the other cut out tow hook.
Some other back burner items getting finished while Cary works on the metal work.
The fan/shroud from the 2.4 MFI T motor.
Years of decay and corrosion.
Some nicks and chips in the blades.
Sent them out to Mark Motshagen for refurbishment.
The end result is quite stunning.
All new plating and rivets on the center pulley section.
He repairs the chipped vanes and refinishes it all.
Then out for what I believe is some kind of ceramic coating....it's not powder coated.
This is much, much better.
More durable and to my eye, much nicer looking.
Is it concours? Not at all, but I'm not doing a concours restoration.
More of an R Gruppe improvement or hot rod.
The fan is a dark charcoal gray and the housing is done in black as many of the 911 motorsport engines were done.
Combined with a nice amber fan shroud by Damon @900 Series...should look great
with the rest of the refinished MFI accoutrement (my $50 word for the day).
WOW... Looks fantastic.
Back to the task at hand.
Welded in the left inside trunk corner. Fit real nice.
I added back in/on the tail of the inner fender portion.
Then I welded on the tow hook extension that Super In Law created on Friday.
90 degrees in the shop with all the lights off, and the doors closed
Last hot day today. Back to cooler temps after that. Sounds like the shop needs a swamp cooler?
Still hot ..................90 degrees when we left at 5pm.
Started the day with grinding down the inside trunk corner patches. After the grinding and sanding was finished I coated them with cold galvanizing.
While cold galvanizing was drying I sprayed down the trunk support panel with OSPHO. Getting it ready for a rub down with a red scour pad and an application of cold galvanizing.
Then went after trimming down the trunk panel somemore. Reinstalled the taillight panel to check all the edges. I won't install the taillight panel until we change out the back end of the qtr. panels. Don't want to get the cart ahead of the horse ...............
After fitting the trunk panel I decided I'll do a complete extension of corners. The panel is just a bit short in the corners. More to come tomorrow..........
Then onto the inside tie in portion of the tub that welds to the taillight panel. Doug's was squished and over hammered. The ones off the parts car were rotten.
Left side ................... Buckle needed to be cut open and the edge straighten.
Right side ............... pretty messed up.
Left side all tidied up with my electric glue gun.
Sorry for the sideways .....................
Then onto the right side repair. Super In Law created the patch piece last Friday.
After extending trunk panel I'll start on the delicate patching of the cowl and windshield frame.
Began with cutting the right corner of the trunk panel to create the extension needed to fill out the corner.
Basically cut it right in front of the vertical flange. This will allow me to swing the vertical portion out to the wall were it needs to be.
This is the extension needed to get the correct fit.
I use numerous shapes and sizes of brass backers to assist in welding in the large gaps/areas.
Here is the finished work. Before and after grinding.
You don't need to get too carried away with grinding. Most of the new extension will be covered with seam sealer.
The left corner needs a larger extension. But with enough brass bcakers it all works out.
I'll post the work and findings on the left windshield frame/cowl rust tomorrow night.
Heading to PIR early in the am. Rothsport has five car running in the event.
I'll meet up with Doug at the race track .............................
While I was expanding the trunk floor Super In Law was cutting some pieces for the right window cowl.
He created what we thought we would need.
But after I cut open the top portion all I found was Bondo.
These are shots after Bondo was dug out.
Talked to Doug at PIR before I posted the pictures. Not exactlty what we thought we'd be looking at. He'll get a windshield cowl coming from DC.
A couple more shots. I'm hoping with the new cowl I can save us from removing the fender.
Here's Jeff Hail's work on his car.
Starts at Post #262
Off to 3 day's of rally car prep at Rothsport. I'll be back on Thursday night.
Yesterday was a short day at the shop. Time for the every other year oil change on the 911. Mobil One V-Twin. Plus I installed the Rothsport oil tank check valve.
Doug stopped by to drop off the fiberglass front hood to put into safe storage and the new to us exhaust heat shield (DC). I'll get the heat shield sand blasted and reworked with my removal set up. I think then Doug plans on having it ceramic coatied for heat dissipation.
Looks like Doug's rear qtr. panel sections and windshield cowl will be coming off a donor car I'll be picking up on Thursday morning. I didn't look at the other sections too closely because I was focused on what I need. But both longs look pretty good.
I'm not one to cut into tubs that could be restored. But his car has been hacked up for some sort of V6 conversion.
California car that has only been up here in Portland a couple years. No rust bubbles in the sail panels either.
While Cary continues on with the metal work on the body, I've been working in the background with more of the subsystems.
Just got most of the dash restored.
Frame was painted a nice satin black by the local auto paint shop.
Added some of my own pseudo basket weave for the dash face....same stuff I've put on the door panels.
Hand repainted the fresh air/defrost levers.
Purchased a nice reconditioned Becker Europa II stereo...actually stereo, many are just mono.
Reflected the glovebox....DIY.
Newly refreshed glovebox lock the is rekeyed to match the rest of the car.
Topped off by a new 914 Rubber dash top.
Sneaked in some new switch centers/inserts.
Some of those have come from VW vendors as our cars share a lot with those guys.
In addition, I just received back my newly rebuilt alternator.
Some guy has a buddy through 911 S Registry....yada yada.
Anyway, the alternator reappeared in mint condition.
Cosmetically and functionally.
I had bad diodes, brushes, etc.
All replaced with new bearings plus a cometic restoration as well.
Combined with the restored fan/shroud from an Early S vendor, and that part of the engine is looking brand new.
Shame it will be buried in the engine compartment never to be seen.
Guess I'll just print out a poster sized pic of the finished engine (Rothsport) to put in my man cave.
Guess I need to post pics of the amber fan shroud the Damon at Series 900 built for me.
Really goes well the the fan/shroud.
Awesome thread so far. Really enjoying all the metal work details. Car is going to be phenomenal when finished.
Doug, can you share alternator rebuild source? blue car alternator needs service.
Car is going to be AWESOME!
Picked up the donor car this am ...............
This is the first car that I think had spent it's entire life in California. There is no rust in the sail panels. Only two little spots from the foam over the passengers door handle. Front hood has no visible rust under the rolled edge. The front trunk seal channel is bitch'n. But it has fairly aggressive damage from the battery acid.
Rear trunk was cut for the V6. But not removed. So it could be re-welded.
Doug we got your seat belt retractor pockets too .......................
Top is going to the dump. Big crack right down the middle.
Extra front end.
We got 3 of the rear wheels.
Just put together one of the seat bases after getting everything back from the powder coater and plater...plus using 914 Rubber's seat base bushing kit.
Everything went smooth excepting the supplied roll pin...just too large to fit in the hole.
So instead I used a tapered pin I found at our local hardware store.
Easier fit by far, and will never come out.
The big problem or puzzle was how to "wind up" the spring so that the tapered pin could be inserted.
Took some "Neanderthal" ingenuity, but I got it done with some help from the wife (need 3 hands for sure).
One more subsystem checked off.
Looks like you are on your way to building another nice one Doug.
I'm going to have to reach out to you for pointers when I start on the little details with mine.
Some of the 911 conversion parts arrived today.
Bit the bullet as I know I would have received a lot of flak for keeping the 914-4 braking system with a 911 engine that will be making around 200hp.
The upside is that I'll be able to take the car to the track....which I wouldn't have done previously.
Pity that I won't be able to use the killer 4 bolt Minilites, but I'm looking at a set of 15x6 deep (ET36) and 15x7R deep (ET49) replica Fuchs from Group 4 Wheels.
I'll get the wheels in bare aluminum and have them refinished in RSR style by these folks: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/888187-fuchs-refinished-high-quality.html
Haven't put the order in for these yet.
SC Bilstein struts and hubs. Dampers will be changed out for a set of Bilstein HD from Elephant Racing.
911 axles....you can see they are shorter than the 914 ones.
So I'll be doing the Sway-A-Way longer 930 axle conversion.
Trans flanges, 911 stub axles and rear hubs as well. Likely will be replated although they do look good currently.
All this came from Retro Automotive out of New Hampshire.
Very clean and in very good condition.
Can't recommend them enough....
Another great Plater-Picture ! nice work Raynekat. interesting to read the posts/progress.
I hope to be back on it tomorrow.
4 corner brake work and fuel injection install on Mark's car today.
Like always, I ran into a few more issues on Mark's car.
Mark's car is not ready to go home yet, but onto Doug's car we go.
The star of the show ..................
New episode of Tool Whore. I will be purchasing a Snap On PTS1000 for the heavy lifting. It has a dual chuck that allows you to use Sawzall blades with it.
I'm ready to go Cary.....
We need to be thinking about the stripping, I'm thinking the sooner the better.
Then maybe a sit down with the paint shop to talk about how far I go. i.e. primer and body filler. 1st. I don't want to do anything to void the paint job warranty. 2nd. No reason to do something they'll just remove and redo.
Bad money ..............
With the Jan 1st. dead line I think I'll be burning the mid-nite oil a couple nights per week.
I'll get Super In Law (Jack) building a couple more sets of door braces and engineering the new under carriage extension for the rotisserie mounts.
Then I'll move my car to a dolly and we should be good to go.
Dad's Garage had a Jiffy Lube oil change yesterday for the daughters, new to her 2013 Acura TSX, nice car. She said, "Dad, did you know you have nine 914's here right now ?". She proceeded to shoot pictures of each and post them on Snap Chat. Too funny. I hadn't really thought about it.
Ran to Clackamas first thing and picked up the new Snap-On air saw. By the time we stopped for lunch we didn't get to the shop till noon, but I hit the ground running.
I've been dreaming of cutting off the tail end of the qtr. panels for a month.
After the trouble with the trunk seal channels on Mark's car, I scaled back my cut out a bit. In addition both trunks are getting fiberglass with wood frame lids. Which will be quite the challenge to get the fit I want.
Back to cutting up a perfectly good car.
I got so engrossed in my work I forgot to shoot a couple before pictures of the parts car.
Qtrs cut off. Taillight panel cut away. Because of my needs on the qtr. panels I only salvaged the center section of the taillight panel. Super In Law is working on breaking down the tow hook in case it might be needed for a bumper back date.
Looks almost like the Pre-Runner truck I'll be driving in Baja.
Then on to the tedious task of cutting out the seat belt retractor pocket.
This is not for the faint of heat. Very tight work up against the door/targa bar frame.
Primary issue is doing as little damage as possible to the parent material of the pocket area.
We will save/cut out the bottom half of the firewall at a later date
That one unseen spot weld gave me fits getting the piece out.
But here she is stripped down and sitting on the work table.
I'll get after the left side first thing in the am. Then on to the tedious task of unpeeling the onion. Breaking down the multi layered portion, one layer at a time.
Friday was spent prepping the parts cut out of the donor car. Note : The parts were cut out intentionally large to allow me to work from the backside. This will allow me to do the least amount of damage to the parent material of the part being used on the car.
Step One :
Remove all seam sealer with heat gun and small and medium wood chisel.
Step Two :
Cut down back side of spot welds with cutter.
Step Three :
Pop off cut spot welds with small wood chisel
Engineering Plan :
After all the dust has cleared from the sawing. Determined that the pocket will be trimmed to fit. 1. Top portion will lay on the cross brace and be rosette welded in. 2. If I can, the outer and bottom weld to be lap welded with rosette and seam welds. Most of the busy work will be under the interior back pad.
Now where was I ? Next I was on to preparing the qtr. panel back corners. After looking at the taillight panel I decided a was going open up the rosette holes on the lower portion. The lower portion of the taillight panel is solid.
The cut out of the taillight portion went well. Did have one drill thru, but all in all, nice. You will find piles of seam sealer up in the inside corner.
Next will be blasting it clean. I'll use garnet on the back. I'm thinking I'll try the walnuts I have for the front. See what type of finish it gives me.
Weapons tray ..............
Because I'm putting a 2.4 MFI engine into the car, certain MFI specific items are needed.
First off, MFI micro filter and console.
New filter, powder coated bracket, freshly yellow zinc plated hardware, new seal gaskets, and misc hardware.
Ready to supply high pressure fuel to the hungry beast....
From Stoddards, a new high efficiency 914-6 oil cooler.
This was sent to Pacific Oil Cooler to be cleaned and pressure tested.
Considering what the engine will cost to build, this seemed like a smart thing to do.
It's hard to tell by just looking whether or not these oil coolers are good...
For example, the oil cooler that came on the engine actually failed the pressure test even though it looked fine....was going to sell it. Trashed it instead.
Also most of the flexible oil lines that go with the 914-6 oil tank....
Finally, a real NOS 914-6 oil tank also from Stoddards.
Added an early 911 filter console and a nifty 914-6 GT style filler neck.
It's the same one you see advertised on Ebay or Sierra Madre, but I purchased mine from the manufacturer in Europe before they were being sold her in the States.
They also make a more authentic version that has the "blow-off" tap for those with all the real 914-6 GT oil plumbing....I didn't need that.
The hardest thing to find was the factory clamp for the filler neck. I did source one eventually....
Spent the morning at Rothsport finishing up the rear sway bar mount on a vintage race car. Bar rotates like butter. Gave it a couple coats of paint and met the wife and Super In law for lunch. Then off to Forest Grove ..............
Plan was to strip the paint off both qtr. panel cut patches. Ran into a little hillbilly work on the first one I worked on. Picture doesn't really show the extent of the crease and trench. Looks like they tried to pull it out with a hook without a slide hammer and they failed ..........
Backside hump shows up a little better on the back.
Put the dolly in the vice and went to work. Pretty easy work when you can hold the panel in your hand. Gave it a soft touch and out she came. First shot is the area shot with guide coat.
After getting cleaned up with the 3" DA.
I'll weld up the holes and blast out the guide coat in the am. That will leave just a slight depression for the paint shop to fill in.
Forgot to shoot pictures of the panels after they were finished up.
Went back to the garnet in the blast cabinet. Not real impressed with walnuts.
I'll add those tomorrow ...................
This was the damaged one. It will need just a smidgen of mud.
The other side didn't have any surprises.
The side we were working on tidied real nice after I welded in the holes.
Then on to fitting and measuring before I cut.
Here's what I'm working on.
#1 needs to be 10 cm. I'll dig out some taillight buckets in the am.
#2 needs to be a flat line. Using a machinists ruler as a guide.
#3 & #4 both need about a 2-3mm gap to the rolled portion of the beaded flange. I have about 20 pairs of small vice grips. I hope it is enough.
I can loan you a slide rule and protractor....
Looking good there Cary.
Only have time for a Saturday 1/2 day. Need to get home and prep the car and trailer for tomorrows season ending AX.
Grabbed my tote of taillights to use for fitting the fender patches and taillight panel.
Spent some time fiddling and cutting the fender patches down to within an inch. Then I decided it was time to start putting it back together. We'll start with the taillight panel first, like the factory did it. That way the fender patch will lay on top. I'm only going to tack the flat portion of the seal channel. That will allow me lots of room for movement.
So I coated both corners with weld thru primer.
Tacked in ..................
After we're all put together I'll dig some of the weld out and braze finish the corner.
After the taillight panel was tacked in it was time to fit and measure ................
Grabbed a spare trunk lid off the rack .................
Then the eyeball work begins ..................
The sun finally came back out so I drug out the blaster tank. Doug's replacement heat shield needed a little rust removal. Rust was pretty thick. Pretty pitted. But I think with some love with the wire cup brush it will be usable.
Doug are you still thinking about ceramic coating the shield?
Then on to cutting the left qtr. panel patch to fit. Measured from the back. When I cut, I left the line. I should have cut right thru the line. Lots of trips back and forth to the belt/disk sander. In the words of Mr. Gamroth. I'm in my Rembrandt mode. If I cut too much I can't glue it back on.
But at the end of the day I'm happy with the fit.
We do have one spot that will take some more Rembrandt work. The outside flat portion of the fender lip fits perfect. The rolled radius to the flat panel don't quite match.
Yes to the question if the heat shield will be ceramic coated.
Still the plan....unless condition of the part prevents that.
What's your schedule for Saturday?
Will be out that direction late morning/noon-ish....
I approve of this thread...
(ok a small minus for the -6, just because I'm a lil jealous)
Welding in the left qtr. panel patch panel.
Started at the taillight and worked my way down to the fender lip. Added a few more stacked spot welds to the edge of the taillight bucket. Could have been a smidgen hotter.
Then I cleaned her up a bit.
Slow and steady wins the race ..........
Continuous us of the Fix It butt weld clamps and my 6" machinists straight edge.
Let it cool to the touch after each weld.
Maybe a smidgen hotter and faster still. But I don't want any distortion.
Used a couple tools to get this done ................
After working it with grinders and sanders.
Stopped by the shop today to see Cary and the FIL (father in law).
Making steady progress.
The rear end is sprouting straight rust free metal for a change.
Previous rear ender had left a lot of crumpled metal and misalignments.
The opening for the tail light had been compromised (now fixed) such that the light wouldn't fit into the opening easily... the tail lights themselves had been cracked and broken, etc.
Looking good courtesy of the A-team.
And that new (2nd hand) monster parts washer is killer.
Wish I had the room and the need for that kind of machinery.
Stopped by Rothsport. Jeff was there.
He said your MFI gears are fine.
Took two days off and there's 5 new cars .......
Carl was there doing a corner balance / alignment on
that bitchn black on black turbo. I'll shoot a couple shots on
Yes, I have to say life is good ...................
1. The honor of being part of you 914-6 project. 2. The honor of working at Rothsport. I'm back working on what we call 89 Red Safari. I'm hoping after there's a press release so I can mention who's car it will be. It will be driven by two very prominent members of the USA Porsche community.
Even though Saturday was a short day I did get a couple hours in on Doug's car.
Job #1. Get the stand offs removed from the exhaust heat shield. That way Doug can get it sent off/out for ceramic coating.
Now with the stand offs are out of the way I'll give it a good rub down with the cup brush. Then another shot with the outside blaster.
Job #2. I cut down the right patch panel in preparation for welding in. Gap is still a little too wide. It was what I thought too tight. But at the end of the fitting. Not so.
The problem I'm running into is trying to keep the light bucket at a 100.50 mm opening and the perfect fit/look at the fender well. Curved surface, yada, yada ,yada.
Next time, rather than free handing it I'll use 3-4 of my cheaper butt weld clamps and stick them to the upper/primary surface with magnets to use as a guide. Might work.
I do use a brass backer it absorb the heat. Which helps with the wider opening issue.
You can see it behind the metal inside the gap. I stitch very slowly. Finger touch and straight edge EVERY weld.
I do have a couple of these too.
That's all for this week. I'll be back next Thursday.
I'm back. During the past week Doug had a conversation with a media blasting company here is Forest Grove. So I took a couple minutes for a quick tour and chat with the owner. I like what I saw. Definitely a car guy.
He had a 240Z that he had just finished. The fenders and hood were stripped with what he called fine grit. That sheet metal is considerably thicker than ours. Then he showed me the roof that was stripped with glass, like what we'd use on the 914.
There was a VW bug getting ready for stripping.
Hit the ground running. Time to finish up the slow and tedious process of welding on he right patch panel.
Stitch by stitch. Cool down to 80 degrees with air hose after each stitch.
Very carefully cut off the proud of the weld bead with a 90 degree cut off wheel.
Then carefully and delicately grind it flush.
After grinding, check your work with a couple guide coats.
Next on to checking the fit and alignment of the rear taillights. Make no assumptions. The metal in these cars in very, lets say flexible.
I did shoot the picture after I finished welding in the corner. The work was done prior to the welding.
Decided against just brazing the corner. The car hangs from the taillight panel when its on the rotisserie. Most of the load is on the trunk. But just to be safe.
Kind of slowed down my grinding when I found all the brazing going out the end.
Got to the shop an hour earlier than Mike's planned arrival time so I went to work on the left qtr. to taillight panel corner weld in.
Not quite all finished and tidied up, but back together. Only shot I took.
After welding I checked the taillight alignment again ................. don't want any future surprises.
Then I spent a couple hours with Mike (Warpig) sorting thru his engine cleanup pile. After that we headed to lunch. After returning from lunch I began to work on fitting the trunk panel. I start tweaking the rear flange to get the fit I want for a great weld in.
After I feel that I have the trunk pan in the correct place I begin the work of creating the removal exhaust shield. Panel just fitted, not welded. This time I'll do the work with the trunk pan on the work bench. Which is much easier to work with. But nothing to measure too. Which creates its own issues.
I should have crawled under Mark's car in the other room for measurements.
My first swing at it it was too close to the tranny mounts. Its going to be moved a 1/2 closer to the taillight panel. This afternoon we're going run out for a couple more hours of work and I'll go under the other car to compare notes.
While I'm working on the trunk Super In Law has been creating the two new inside trunk/fender corners. Lots of trial and error. One would think I could have got them from the donor part. But the spot weld cutting and delayering didn't leave too much.
And we're fitting it to the work we did prior to deciding to replace the sheet metal.
So time for some welding ...............
Welding was a little bumpy with all the left over factory brazing to work around.
Prior to the inside corner weld in I did get the bottom portion of the taillight panel and qtr. panel welded together and tidied up. But I forgot to shoot a couple pictures.
Getting the fan "dialed in" a bit more....
Newly plated strap with new foil decal (which is NOS and has the wrong displacement on it...who knew?....and inconsequential in the end).
The displacement on the foil decal for the 1973 engine is a 2.2 which is obviously wrong; should be 2.4-ish.
New struts arrived from Elephant Racing.
My 2nd hand Bilstein units had worn out spindles so were no good.
Ended up ordering RSR struts that had the raised spindle, but put HD Bilstein dampers in them so they aren't too stiff for the street.
Also came with their adjustable bump steer kit & brake line supports (necessary due to the coil over capability of the struts, which I won't be utilizing).
Ran back to Forest Grove after church .......................
Here's the shot of the weld in of the right taillight panel to qtr. panel I forgot yesterday. Funny thing. I started today with doing the left side. But once again forgot to shoot a picture of it.
I let Super In Law take the welder to build up the matching left side inner fender corner. So I went back to re engineering the removable exhaust shield. I crawled under Mark's project car. The standoffs are right up to the taillight panel. I'm going to move Doug's forward about a 1/4" forward.
I'm thinking we should hold off on getting the exhaust shield ceramic coated until we install the engine at Rothsport. The mounting holes might need to be changed to accommodate the 911 exhaust. Thoughts ?
Here's a shot of the shield attached to the trunk panel. It's attached with self tapping screws. Test fit was a beautiful thing.
Plan is to run back out to Forest Grove on Tuesday night to weld in the inner corner and trunk panel.
Then it was time to fiddle with Super In Laws corner piece.
Decided a little moonlighting was in order to get the taillight/trunk all finished up.
I was hoping to get it wrapped up. Almost, but not quite.
Finished up the back of the right corner.
Then on to the left corner. Started with the vertical portion of the taillight hole. Then the horizontal. Then out to the front and the last three rosettes on the face of the taillight panel. Forgot to shoot a picture, Ill get it on Thursday. Then on to the holes punched on the backside tying all three layers together. Then last but not least the down butt weld tying it back into the inner fender. It looks a little bumpy in the left area. That left over brazing from the factory or the attempted previous repair.
After that was finished I moved on to finishing up the removal exhaust shield. In the background Super In Law was working on installing the new parts washer motor.
I'll finish up this post after my day job ........... LOL
After welding the shield stand offs to the bottom of the trunk panel I rounded the corners to make them a little more user friendly.
Then gave the trunk panel another test fit only to find its a smidgen too tight in the new back left corner. So I didn't get it finished up last night.
So it will get a little nip and tuck in the am.
Got off to a late start, but finally got back to welding in the trunk.
First issue was doing the little cut and tuck on each corner. It didn't take too much.
Then on to aligning the trunk panel to the taillight panel. I'm primarily using the factory spot weld dimples as the guide. Used a combination of Vise Grips and self taping screws to hold it in place. I have a 5th 18" Vise Grip ( R model) that I use to clamp right next to the rosette that I'm welding.
To get the nice flat fit I'm only welding the taillight panel portion between the braces.
Slow process. Hammer it tight. Clamp down the Vise Grip. Hammer it flat again. Then weld. Then start the process again on the other end.
Then on to the other side, the rosettes on the transmission mount support. I used self taping screws in every third hole to tighten it down. Once again I only welded in the center section ..
I started stitch welding in the tranny mount to trunk panel butt weld seam. It's going to be a little touchy. Nice solid new metal with the trunk panel. Old thinner metal in the tranny mount.
wondering just how much scope creep to expect here. Looks like a nice build!
Started the day with finishing the butt weld on the humped portions of the tranny support. Then moved on to the trunk reinforcement plate. Weld Thru Primer. Then used about 40 self tapping screws to hold it down tight. Doug had offered to buy a new one and I turned it down. I should have taken him up on it. The problem with reusing the old one is the your welding right into the spot weld cutter hole. Which is thinned down and I blew right thru about a half dozen of them. On top of that the holes are too big, which creates a huge rosette.
Now that the center section is welded in nice and tight I set about welding in the sides.
I try to replicate the way the part was originally installed. Spot welds on the sides and tack welds in the back corner. Then only lightly grind down the welds because they get smothered in seam sealer.
Then the final step. Weld back on the upper corner braces.
After our initial set back after finding the wrinkled qtr. panels. The back end is finally getting wrapped up.
Gave the new metal a light coating of SE primer to protect it.
End of a great day .................. Tomorrow onto cutting the oil tank holes.
Sorry I'm a little late. Had to do a little malware work on this PC.
On to to cutting the holes for the oil tank in the left fender/engine compartment.
Here's a little write up from Wayne at Pelican.
The installation of the oil tank requires you to drill seven holes in the side of your engine compartment. Fortunately, all 914s have indentations in their sheet metal where the holes are to be drilled. If you look on the side of the wall inside your 914, they are located just above and below your relay box. You probably never noticed them before - I know I never did. The holes that must be drilled require a set of hole saws:
4" to 4.5" for the oil filter
2" for the breather hoses
2.5" for the filler neck
1.5" for the 2 hole return line holes.
A shot from the 914 PET.
I already had the hole template that Doug had drawn up in my possession. Then Doug brought out the oil tank itself.
So I was ready for battle.
But we didn't have any hole saws that large. So off to ACE I went. The problem is, I bought the first couple hole saws too small. I should have pulled the Pelican info up onto the 55" computer monitor. So I might need to do some artwork with the carbide burr cutter.
But I'm hoping if one uses a very soft and slow touch I should be able to enlarge the holes with the correct hole saw. I just returned from Lowes with the correct ones.
Don't drill that oil filter opening 4-4.5" !!!! Be careful with that Axe Eugene.
That's too big; Wayne is wrong on that one.
I measured the big rubber gasket that goes in there and it's more like 3.8-3.9".
I bought a 4". That's what everyone stocks. I just ordered a 3 7/8 from Amazon.
Do you have #8, #9, #10, #11, #45 and #46 in your possession ?
I'd like to get my hands on them before I cut the oi filter console hole.
I need to clean out quite a bit of seam sealer and undercoat inside the fender to get the tank positioned first.
A shot of the foam seals for the filler neck and breather hose.
Package showed up from Amazon.
We have a couple rear trunks (rotten back lips) we can cut a couple test holes into to test the seal fit.
Looked at re-sawing the oil tank holes with the new hole saws. Not.
Traced the correct size with the new saws. Then cut them out with the carbide burr cutter on a die grinder.
Then I went thru the Restoration Design parts box to remind myself of all the bits that still need to be dealt with.
Then it was time to dig into the donor car and cut out the left seat belt retractor pocket.
Second time around took about half as long. Still tough to get at the third layer.
Tomorrow will be the delicate cut out of the tight spot welds.
Decided to start the day with fiddling with the 6 motor mount. I needed to shave the URO mount just a bit to get it to fit. Depending on the finish on the motor/body mounts it will need a bit more. But for now it fits together nicely.
Then on to removing the excess from the left seat belt pocket. Kind of tedious.
Primary objective is to get the unneeded material off without damaging the primary part.
No new pictures, same process as the other side.
Now both side are ready to go. No particular reason on the size difference, freehand.
Forgot to shoot a shot of the marked out cut. I'll get it on the other side.
But the cut out was pretty uneventful, just slow and careful. The only real issue was the top corner where the short engine cover piece and the firewall come together. It had 3-4 pieces come together and it was brazed. Where on the 72 it had 3 spot welds.
The only scary part was lightly cutting across the brace. It's a feel thing.
The shots below is the only modification I'll need to make to the bracing. The later piece is flatter to accommodate the backing plate I assume.
Here's where I ended the day and week. Along with a Beavers win at the Civil War game.
I won't weld it in until after it comes back from the media blaster. Lots of nasty stuff on the engine side of the firewall.
For those wondering my plan of attack when it comes to welding. It will be lap welded on the firewall surfaces. With both a seam and 1/4" rosettes. I'll then mask off the inertia reel seat and spray the area with seam sealer to make the seams go away.
Recently purchased a 2nd hand Leistritz muffler.
Decided to put a more sturdy coating on it than the existing paint that was pealing off in many places.
Lestritz is the muffler of choice for early 911's and 914-6's.
Their build quality and sound are 2nd to none.
They are tough to find as new ones have not been manufactured since the 1980's and the prices of early 911's has gone stratospheric.
Paint remover, scotch pad and wire brushing got me to this stage...bare metal.
Truly an authentic Lestritz.
Back from the coaters with a titanium colored ceramic applied.
Just thousands of an inch thick, but basically good for the life of the car.
Won't discolor with heat.
Found a nice stainless steel muffler tip on Ebay for a great price.
One more thing that won't easily rust on this car.
The ceramic coating is so thin that all the lettering on the muffler still easily shows.
Busy week at Rothsport. Getting the first 3 Mexican 1000 rally cars ready for media blasting.
Now its time to get Doug's car ready for media blasting. That starts with taking my project car off the rotisserie and setting it on the frame bench.
This is the first car to go onto the bench fixtures since building them for Mark's project car. Dropped right into the long pinch weld stand ups.
Both the rotisserie and frame bench slide by the low rise lift with moving Mark's for sale car.
So with getting Doug's car ready for the rotisserie we'll need another set of door braces.
One set is in Mark's project car.
My project car has the Jeff Hail door alignment style set in it.
So we stopped by Ace after lunch. I decided as long as were doing all the measuring and cutting we'll make two sets. Price tag $121.
Three 10' pieces of 1/2" black pipe. Cut into 38" long pieces.
Pile of hardware. Might have saved some if I'd looked for L & R eye bolts instead of turnbuckles.
Super In Law is all set up to come out and play by himself while I'm at Rothsport next week. He was dressed and ready to go at 8am this morning.
Note : He isn't out there all by himself. Mike, one of the horse trainers is in the next building (barn). He and Super In Law are tight.
While Super In law was in the other room cutting metal I went about cutting out the other upper firewall corner. Don't need any more detail pictures. I changed my attack in round two. I cut it out like a piece of crust-less toast. Cut out the center. Then worked around the outside drilling out the spot welds.
Just as I was finishing these up Doug stopped by with the oil filter console and hardware bits for the oil tank so I have more hands on info before I cut out the big hole.
He also brought out the tail lights and lenses so I can tweak the taillight panel for the perfect taillight alignment, before paint. Nip & Tuck.
Left, I need to sand/grind a bit inside the fender bucket. Need to tighten the top of the corner portion about 2mm.
Right, need to tweak the bucket mounts just a smidgen. Not quite vertical.
Like the other parts Doug has refurbished they are a thing of beauty.
They already have Spoke's LED taillights installed. I love mine.
We also discussed adding an LED brake light bar into/onto the targa bar for safety.
Cary, your one talented individual. Based on some of your projects, on some cars, your practically replacing 50% of the sheet metal. It reminds me of a 356 in Pano where they replaced 95% of the car. If I had the deep pockets and needed one worked on, you will be in the running.
Ready to put the car on the rotisserie tomorrow if the rain slows down. Mike's car will need to roll outside for a bit while we use the lift to mount the car on the rotisserie.
While Super In Law was finishing up the door braces I blasted the 32 valve covers Mark had dropped off a while ago. I cleaned the gasket seat on the inside and the prepared the outside for paint.
On to the lift she goes ..................
Doubled checked the window frame gap before she was set onto the rotisserie wheels.
Right side needed to be drawn in 1mm.
Ready for business ................
I went thru the detail of removing the left jack post on my rustoration thread.
Here's where we ended the day.
I'm going to leave the grinding till after the car gets blasted.
Doug and I'll make determination on the rust after the blasting too.
Being on the rotisserie will make cutting the oil filter console hole much easier.
I forgot how much easier things are on the rotisserie.
Here's a shot of the exhaust shield stand off / mounts.
Selfie .............. 46 degrees when we arrive. Better than I thought it would be.
Here's a shot of the bottom radius cut out. Be careful not to tear off/out the spot welds.
As discussed in my rustoration thread. I cut it out in small bites.
Top of the long is all tidied up. Still want to brush it up with the new 24" sander after it arrives. This time I used a shorter coned carbide cutter to remove the remainder of the spot welds. I think I like it better.
Moment of truth.
I'll finish the remainder of Friday tonight or Sunday. Super In Law is chopping at the bit to get going. And Warpig should be there around 10am.
I'll probably look at peeling off the outer layer in the square box after it returns from media blasting.
I need to take a look at all the rocker panel bolts also. The one in the circle is snapped off.
Then I moved on to removing the jack point triangles. No real issues.
Heater tube blocked off and ready for the media blaster.
Then set about removing the right T4 motor mount. I was hoping to save it for Mark's project car. But it would take too much time. And cause too much damage to the parent material. I'll have to get the one I need off one of the donor cars. Cutting away the long from behind.
I felt bad cutting it into pieces. But I had preserve the parent material on the long.
On a sour note. Now that I have it on the rotisserie I found a hillbilly patch in the hell hole.
Very productive day ....................
Test fit ..................
Saturday AM. Off comes the left T4 motor mount. Nothing new. Cut it into pieces to get it out of the way.
Next was the removal of the field portion of the rear floor plan.
Before I cut out the field portion I took multiple measurements and pictures. Here's one shot.
Once I got the field out of the way I could get at all the detail pieces.
First. Cut the floor away from the e-brake bracket.
#2, trim off the e-brake cable tunnel.
Finally. Cut the floor away from the seat adjuster bracket.
Another great day .....................
Looking good Cary.
And it looks like I've got some more new metal coming or needed on this car.
As the saying goes...all these cars have rust, just differing in the amount that's all.
You'll be getting lots of practice on mine.
We've recently had a good amount of snow here in the Portland area.
Nice time for some inside projects?
What's a person to do?
Could make miniature snowmen with the wifey? Or....
Finally get around to putting this mess of parts together!
Doing the PMB classic high hp axle build up.
Purchased the Sway-A-Way axles, located a good set of 2nd hand 911 axles, got everything cleaned up & replated, purchased the necessary new items and I was ready.
New CV boots and gaskets off Ebay.
Belmetric sent me the Oetiker ear clamps (74mm and 35mm), M10 zinc plated Schnorr washers, and the Grade 12.9 M10x50 CV bolts.
The 911 CV joints were cleaned and inspected (in great shape) and put back together in the correct manner....short to long.
Install the boots on the newly plated flanges, tighten up the big Oetiker clamps and slide the boot assemblies on the axles (not a trivial undertaking) with the small clamps ready to go at a later date.
After loading up the CV joint with plenty of Redline CV-2 high performance extreme pressure grease, I started to assemble the CV joints onto the axles.
A ring clip goes on the end of the axle.
New black phosphate coating on the 911 stub axles and new gaskets evident.
Also the M10x50 bolts are just the right length to barely come out the back side of the stub axle.
Freshly replated boot flanges, new boots, clamps, bolts and washers all make for a nearly new looking axle assembly.
Side Note :
We did save the floor plugs from the cut out section of the floor. Trimmed down the panel and ran them thru the wood stove. Good as new.
Now that I already have the big Lenox mandrel I'll buy the correct size hole saw for the floor pan when the time comes.
Things at Rothsport are wrapped up for a bit, so back to Doug's car.
Plan to get the spot welds around the cut out floor removed today. Then off to get blasted. Tried contacting the blaster yesterday, no call back.
Cut out/off the center tunnel cover. Once again one must be very careful when cutting the cover off. The tubes lay right against the bottom of the pan.
The tunnel is in very nice shape.
Don't see any issues.
Even the tub brace looks like new.
Just about have it ready to go. Just the area's marked in yellow left to go.
No spot weld cutter has been used. Just grinding them down and popping them off.
We do have one tiny rust thru spot on the bottom of the right long. I mean tiny.
There will be a couple inches of bottom lip that will need to be created.
Super In Law cut out four patches for the vent holes in the longs.
I'm going to tack them in to help keep media from getting in the longs. They'll also get a Gorilla tape cover laid over them for additional protection.
Finished up the trim out of the rear floor pan.
Then moved on to removing the MPS bracket. Not needed on the 6.
Then I removed the buggered up trunk pivot. Lots of measurement pictures if anyone needs them.
Next was the busted off engine lid hinge brackets. Once again, lots of measurement photos.
Then off came the remnants of the rusted off battery tray.
As Doug suspected there will be a little more work in the hell hole.
But a pretty simple fix using the Mad Dog panels.
I then worked on sealing up the long getting it ready for media blasting.
Ready for blasting .................
New Years Eve Day
Start the day setting up the doors so Super In Law can begin the speaker hole repairs.
Engine stand and BBQ brackets.
Here's what we want to repair/tidy up.
Trying to bring it back to this ...............
There's also 3-4 door seal rust holes that I'll need to remove and replace.
Having some fun .....................
He made a tool and rolled the flange back up.
Because of the radiuses the patch was created in three pieces. Some day when we have more time we'll build some bucks we can use in the press.
Just a friendly reminder I don't charge for Super In Law's time.
At the end of the day I took over and tacked the 3 pieces together and started the fiddling and fitting. Just about ready to be welded in.
After getting him going I set about patching the hole in the hell hole.
The hours of seam welding thru pockets of seam sealer on the 964 helped with the welding to the rust.
After the car is media blasted the patch will be removed.
Then gave it a good lather of brush on seam sealer.
Then I repaired the window regulator ..............
Looking excellent there maestro welder/reconstruction team.
Even though it was 20 degrees when we got up, we still headed out to Forest Grove.
First order of business was starting the fire and getting the middle shop warmed up.
Within an hour I was down to a sweatshirt only.
I was so excited to get back to work I didn't take any pictures before lunch.
I got the left speaker hole butcher job repaired.
Looks like they had some issues with the cage nut. Split or cut.
Welded that up.
The left door has some good (bad) examples of why we now use weld thru primer.
I also went over the door and filled all the sheet metal screw holes.
Then it was time to go to work on the door seal channel. It is very nice to work on these doors that have been dipped, real easy to see what needs to be done.
What I found pretty much replicates what I found on both mine and Mark's project car.
Four spots rusted thru. One 3" section of degradation. So I elected to make one long patch piece. Rather than 4 small ones. It will easier to keep the weld nice and flat.
Here's a shot of the area cut out.
Patch piece is fabricated and ready to be trimmed up.
X's show the location of the spot welds. After the patch is fitted I'll drill out the spot weld locations with the 1/4" Rotacut.
Cary, I'm happy you're working on my car.
Your care and expertise is easy to see.
Very happy you are taking all this care and knowledge to fix my car up correctly.
I owe you and your father in law a lot of beers and a great dinner one day....
Here's a shot of the repair patch on the right door that was done on Saturday.
Here's the next butchered up area we'll get after.
Spent the day welding in the left door seal channel patch. Slow and steady wins the race. Hammer and dolly'd to maintain a flat surface.
1/8" spot welds. Welding the patch back to the door frame.
A shot of the bottom right corner after grinding and sanding.
Was about ready to return it to the storage rack when I found a couple holes. Not exactly sure what they were for. Maybe they were going to pull out the dent under them with a slide hammer. But never did the pulling. Just filled it with mud.
Got out woody woodpecker and starting working the dent.
Snuck out Sunday afternoon for a 1/2 day.
Went to work on the damaged upper portion of the speaker hole on the right door. I don't get why it had all the hammer and punch marks too. Oh well, we'll just fill them in. Super In Law cut out the patch in two pieces. It's been a while since we used the shrinker/stretcher.
Next on to surveying the rust damage to the seal channel. Once again, I'd like to say how nice it is to work on this stripped door. Best I could tell the metal under the channel wasn't damaged. So I decided to remove just the channel flange.
The only issue was figuring how to cut the section out. So I decided to go old school.
Drilled a starter hole, just like you would for a jigsaw cut. Except being metal I can weld the hole and slice closed.
Once again I cut down the spot welds with the cutting disc on the mandrel. We'll start calling it the Johnny wheel. After cutting it almost down to the parent material I pop it off with the narrow wood chisel.
Then onto the other end.
First patch was in a double layered area. I delicately cut open the outer layer.
Using the same method to cut out the rusted sections. This will allow me to make smaller patches.
While I'm working over the door. Super In Law was creating the new seal channel with the shrinker.
Three holes down, four to go.
Finally getting back to Doug's car. Between the workload at Rothsport and cold weather I'm getting behind the schedule I'd proposed.
Got the fire started and got to work ................. Left Super In Law at home. We have company from Minnesota visiting.
All of the holes I cut out have been patched and welded up. All that remains is the two pieces of channel .................... I'll weld in the small piece SIL created last week, tomorrow.
I did also weld up a split out hole that holds the inner window seal.
Doug stopped by right before lunch to check on the progress.
At the end of the visit we kind of came to the consensus that I'll probably be doing the blasting/stripping myself. Looks like I might be ordering a Texas Blaster.
I guess we'll be giving my new air compressor its first test.
Doug also brought a couple brake dust shields that had split out bolt holes. Welded those up so he can get them powder coated.
Livin the Dream ........................
Ran out to Kleen Blast in North Portland to pick up some Garnet for the blast cabinet. Drove thru the Freezing Rain I-5 carnage on my way. Other than the debris on the side of the road, the drive was uneventful.
Lit a fire and started a 1/2 pot of coffee when I arrived.
Time to get to work .........................
1st. order of business was to spot weld in the first replacement door seal channel.
Gave the bottom of the channel patch a shot of weld thru primer. Should be good for another 50 years.
You'll notice the plywood backer against the door skin to keep from dimpling the skin.
Then I welded up the split/cracked window seal fastener hole on the right door.
Doug, I found another drilled hole on the left door ................
Then I cut out the 5th rust spot. This time the seal channel is in the way.
At the end of the day I started tinkering with seal channel patch #2. Looks almost like a roller coaster ................ Follow the yellow line.
All in all a very productive 1/2 day ......................
Sunday March 5th.
Doug came out to do a little more undercoating removal before I deliver the car to our NEW media blaster in the am.
He brought his new to him 914-6 engine tin out so I can take it along to the media blaster. Once blasted it will get a little more tuning up before getting powder coated.
He also brought me a new to him LEISTRITZ muffler out for a little dent removal.
I dropped the car off at the new media blasters this morning. Impressive shop. Nice and tidy. Hopefully done by Friday ..............
I noticed everything in his shop in epoxy primered. So I asked, does he spray epoxy too?
Answer, No but my brother has a booth on the other side of Sherwood. They neutralize the soda first, then spray two coats of epoxy.
I'll let Doug discuss it with him.
Stopped by the blaster on the way home from instructing at the Tire Street Survival event at PIR.
Was treated with Hold Tight this afternoon.
Fender that will contain the oil tank.
Today was the big day. Time to pick up the car from the paint booth.
The car looked stunning. Another stroke of luck, the blaster/primer painter shot the car with the same SPI primer I use.
A couple shots after being unloaded into my shop.
No real surprises after being blasted. A few screw/bolt holes here and there. A couple more soft dents. Hell hole is better than I thought it would be. I'll still need a Mad Dog kit.
Chomping at the bit to get going ............ tried to take Monday off at Rothsport, no go. Fender liners and mud flaps before the following weeks testing.
Up early to retrieve Matt Whitesell's car from the paint shop. 8am appointment.
Finally back to work .....................
Started with the sheet metal hole cutting test for the oil filter. I used the hood off the POS parts cars that was cut into pieces. The outside edges were totally rotten.
Started with the 3 7/8 hole. The grommet fits, but the oil filter won't go thru it.
This is the one we thought would work. The seal alone would not slide around the hole.
The next one was 4". Empty, the seal would slide around the hole. The oil filter would slide in but the not pass entirely thru. It would hang up on rolled bottom lip.
But it would pass thru the seal with a light application of Sil-Glyde. I think once the seal heat cycles a few times it will be fine. I think 4 1/8th. would become to loose over time.
Next onto filling in all the sheet metal screws holes in the trunk that were bondo'd over. I assume the battery was mounted in the trunk for a while.
Then it was time to patch up the hacked in battery cable hole.
Shot from the backside, double sided seam
Used the Edd China (Wheeler Dealers) tape patch pattern technique.
I decided to use the 110 volt welder for less wire and less heat. Hopefully it will have less burn back on the epoxy primer.
Moonlighting Wednesday 3/22/17
Matt Whitesell came out to keep removing fuel and brake lines.
Doug came out to check on his epoxied project.
He also brought by his fuel pump and the CDI unit. Drill holes for the fuel pump bracket and do some creative addition to the battery tray for the CDI unit.
I started the night with a project review with Doug. Then I proceeded to unpack the boxes of parts that need to be welded in.
Start with welding in the pivot threaded bushing.
The replacement part needs a little tuning up to make it look a little more like the factory piece. Round the corners and flex it up a bit to make it the same height.
Lots of measurements to check and use for getting it in the correct location.
Next ...................... rear sway bar mounts
I did get in a little moonlighting from my work at Rothsport. Didn't get as far as I'd have liked too. Dad's Garage oil change for the daughter. Then when we through Matt's front struts in the parts washer. It made a horrible racket and shot sparks. . So we had to pull that apart. Needs to be dropped off at the irrigation pump shop for diagnosis.
Pump and motor turn freely. I'm thinking a brush of some sort sort wore down and turned sideways. Over my pay grade ................
Decided to round up a rear sway bar and get the rear sway bar tabs correctly located and aligned. Used Matt's sway bar and Mark's brackets. The bottom of the brackets are sprayed with weld thru primer and ready for welding in tomorrow night.
Thursday 4/6/17 Moonlighting
Double checking the sway bar alignment after welding in the first side.
Welded into place. Once it warms up a bit I'll get everything recovered with epoxy.
Trunk side .................
Man it's pleasant welding with new metal on both surfaces. No need to adjust the weld settings due to the metal density.
The next couple steps I'll need to put on my Big Boy pants. 1st, cut the hole for the oil tank/filter grommet. Then on to installing my custom seat belt pockets.
I'm getting over my aversion to cutting and drilling holes in these beautiful cars.
Here's rally #2 going on the alignment rack. I alone have probably drilled 200 holes in that car. Today it will get 40 more. I'm riveting in 2 sheets of UHMW on the floor pan between the skid plates.
The yellow lenses do look nice.
Finally a Saturday off. Spent the am doing shop chores and maintenance. After lunch it was time to drill a 4" hole in the car.
Measure about 10 times, then cut. Started with finding the center of the formed oil filter console location.
Laid out Doug's template to confirm.
Needed go to the Tool Whore weapons chest. More torque ..........
Drilling the hole was uneventful. Getting the oil tank into the fender was another story.
I just couldn't get the inside stud into the hole.
After alot twisting and turning I found the flange was hanging up on the striker plate backing plate.
Kind of hard to see. It wanted to settle in between the two sets of nubs.
So we loosed it up the striker plate and moved it about 2mm. It then slid right in. Go figure.
I had a bitch of a time getting it back into place so I could reinstall the M6 bolts.
The free handed bottom hose hole will need a little more art work.
Then onto the left custom seat belt anchor point.
Doug thanks for the soda blasting. It made cleaning up the area pretty simple.
After a couple cut downs she's fitting pretty nice. The door frame portion will be rosette welded on the outside flange. Factory look. Same with the upper cross member. The fire wall portion will be lap welded with both seam and rosette welds.
Back side. You can see the flange.
Just about ready to weld. It will get another run thru the media blast cabinet before welding.
Forgot I do have one section of Rembrant work to do.
The radius's don't match.
Later radius is smoother.
Now where was I ? Seems like its been forever since I've been out here.
Beings that I'll have 4 days to work before I head to LA for Luftgekuhlt I decided to tackle the jack points first. Both sides had rust under jack point. So I needed to remove the 1st rusty layer. Both of the jack tubes where still in good shape.
Left side :
Like I've mentioned in the past. Take it out/off in small sections. Your less apt to tear a hole out from under the spot welds.
I did find that one of the rocker panel nuts had a 6mm bolt broken off in it.
Welded up my too deep cut.
Gooder as new. Drilled and tapped.
On to the right side. Same drill .......................
I did find another snapped off rocker panel bolt on the right side. Once again, drilled and tapped.
I sprayed the opened up sections with Ospho before we headed home.
Started the day cleaning the Epoxy primer out of the rocker panel cover nutserts.
Then on to the left seat belt retractor. Next task was putting the flange on the pocket so it will lay behind the firewall for strength.
Lots of Rembranting to get a nice fit. The half a dozen long reaching Vise Grip clamps came in handy again. I worked on this while Super In Law was creating the jack point sheet metal patches. The indent for the tube had to be pressed/hammered in.
Blasted and weld thru primed and ready to go for tomorrow. I'll clean off the weld thru primer with lacquer thinner prior to respraying with epoxy primer.
After he finished up the right patch I set out to get it welded in. Kind of over did the application of weld thru primer due to the location of the patch. Lots of splattering. But it tidied up pretty nice.
Short Episode of Tool Whore.
I don't remember if I mentioned that I changed weapons for removing the proud off the welds.
Right side finished up.
Could have welded just a smidgen hotter for flatter rosette welds. The upper weld on the tube is a bitch with the fender attached. First shot was in the upside mode. NOT.
Ended up full power and a long stick out. Don't forget to turn up your welder when you get the the tube.
Biggest issue was the inside fender 4 rosettes. 1. Next time tape off the area prior to spraying epoxy primer. I need a longer and wider belt sander. Getting that area down to bare metal was a bit of work. Tomorrow I'm going to try the 45 degree die grinder with a 3 inch disk. 2. I didn't want to take the time to pull the readers out of my Miller Face mask so I left hand welded it with my eyes closed.
Left side all ready to go for Thursday.
On to the left jack cover.
Reusing the tube I didn't like the way the radius met the bottom of the long so I straightened it and rebent it.
I weld in the vertical rosettes first then hammer it down.
Back in business ..................
In addition to the longer belt sander I'll need to find a magnetic mirror so I can see the hole on the last 2 holes.
In the future I might tinker with using the Panel Spotter in this spot. Need more practice.
Next was welding in the left seat belt bucket.
Started with fitting it tight with self taping screws.
The front was rosette and seam welded. Back got some 1" stitches every other inch.
Sides and top was just rosette welded like the factory part.
I didn't get too carried away with grinding. Basically just taking the tops off, not touching the back. My plan is to spray both front and back with a light coat of spray on seam sealer to kind of camouflage them.
The dark color is from the penetration of the back side stitches.
Need to detail the window seal channel in the am.
Doug is coming out for a visit in the am. It will be short day, I'm leaving for Lufegekult at 5am on Saturday and need to check in at Rothsport in the afternoon.
I wish I could share a photo. We left the two dirty rally cars sitting in the middle of Jeff Zwarts car collection. It is a sight to be hold. I'm pretty certain he is being his Monte Carlo 914-6 to be displayed with the 2 Mexican 1000 cars.
Friday 5/5/17 Short Day
Trimming up and in the right side seat belt retractor pocket.
Second time around is going very quickly. Lessons learned on round one are paying rewards.
Epoxy primer pealed back on both sides, ready for the weld in.
New shoes for the car.
A set of ultra-lite Mahle gas burner wheels that have been repainted.
Shod with Michelin XWX 185/70VR15 tires.
These will be my everyday running around set up.
Pretty amazing how light this tire/wheel combo is.
Also just received my gauges back from North Hollywood Speedometer.
This took some time....nearly 10 months, but the wait was worth it as they always do a great job.
Not inexpensive, but I wanted a few special touches, so they were my choice.
Converted the 911 multi-gauge to all metric or Euro? Druck (oil pressure) in bars and the oil temp in C.
The speedo was given the later 914 look as the early 914 speedos just have too many numbers for my taste and look too busy.
Finally the tach was rearranged with the addition of the fuel gauge as well.
All new bezels, glass, pointers, center buttons, etc.
Gauges look flawless.
I love your gas burners.
Your instruments look beautiful. I spent some coin on mine to have them done; you look at them the whole time you are in the car. Well worth the time and money.
Rebuilt the steering column today.
Repainted the housing, installed a new turn signal switch, new ignition switch, rekeyed ignition lock all with new shrink tubing and a 12 pin connector.
Talk about a fiddly job.
Routing the wires so you can get the whole mess through the very tight opening in the housing, soldering new male pins on all the wires, checking and rechecking wiring diagrams from various sources to make sure I understood what every wire was and where it was supposed to go.
It was a total hack job when I disassembled after purchase.
The previous owner(s) had been naughty and lazy folks in replacing the ignition in the past.
The right seat belt retractor pocket went in lickety split after all the engineering on the left side.
Positioned and attached with self tappers.
Self tappers removed and the outer hole enlarged to 3/16 for a larger rosette.
Rosettes welded up/in.
Seam (stitched) welded and wire brushed.
Welds smoothed up a bit.
Back side ready for some stitches when I get to welding in the engine compartment.
Next ......................... on to the Hell Hole.
Doug has provided me the Mad Dog Major kit for the work.
Picking up a little flash rust so I gave them a rub down with OSPHO before I headed home.
Let the fun begin. Cut off/out the ramp without damaging the inner layer from the inner long.
Once I get the ramp removed I'll cut out the inner wheelhouse so Super In Law can recreate the formed areas the best we can.
Then I'll move on to the engine shelf and end panel. I'd kind of like to not have to remove the engine seal channel, it's in great shape. And that extra stud is kind of cool.
Back to cutting out the hell hole.
While I'm cutting out the hell hole Super In Law went to work on the front valence.
Not a lot to work with. These have been so beat up running into and over parking curb/stops over the years that the sheet metal is pretty thin. First attempt will be adding the front edge back on.
I'll need to remove the one off my 74 to get the correct radius. It has an odd cut out.
Out came the inner wheelhouse/battery tray mounting area sheet metal.
Replacement piece underneath, Super In Law's next project. We'll see what he comes up with. His first thought is a couple different bucks and being made in two pieces.
Reminder : I don't charge for Super In Laws time. We're all paying his Federal retirement. He's now been retired longer than he worked (32 years).
It takes a pile of tools to get this done . LOL.
Ready to start cutting the patch panels.
I think I'll leave the end panel. It has a little degradation on the hell hole side. The interior side looks beautiful.
Obtaining/reconditioning parts for the side shift conversion.
Purchased the shift forks, rear console, rods and shifter from a couple of 914 World members. All the parts were in great shape. Just needed some cleaning and new bushings for the most part.
Cleaned and repainted the two shift rods.
The rod bushings on the rear rod had turned to the consistency of candle wax.
So replaced those with a set from 914 Rubber.
Also purchased a new rear console cover with band from 914 Rubber as well.
Pulled the shifter apart to clean it, paint it, inspect the components.
Everything looked great including the two plastic pieces on either side of the spring up inside the housing.
A new coat of paint and reassembly was all that was needed.
Getting those two long springs back in place was a minor battle, but I won in the end.
Some new hardware, boot and shift knob...and this job was complete.
Congrats from Julie, I and Super In Law.
Wow, how blessed, beautiful little angels. Congratulations!
Future Porsche pilots /mechanics.
Start the day with pulling the front valence of the 74 Appearance Group I have in inventory. To become my oldest son's car (Robert, custom made kid).
Need to recreate the control arm cups. The part that gets ground off.
Next weld in the McMark 914-6 oil line hook.
Then Doug asked me to cut out the rear fender lips like the later cars. Allows for a little wider tire.
We'll create a wooden buck so I can hammer roll the inside of the lip just a smidgen.
While I'm welding, Super In Law started the work on the inner wheelhouse/ battery tray panel.
Then I took a couple minutes to go thru the inventory of parts that will be going on the new floor pan.
Next its time to weld in the Tangerine Racing suspension console stiffeners. Lots of clamping and hammer work.
One side sprayed with cold galvanizing. One shined up with a wire brush.
Ended the day prepping the right engine lid hinge bracket. Welded in the holes that were ripped out when the hinge came loose.
Short day on Doug's car. Rebuilt the front brake master cylinder on the 4 wheeler for starters. Good-er as new.............
Grabbed the welder and welded in the engine lid bracket before Super In Law needed it on the wheelhouse back wall.
Being that welding is a major portion of the work we do, another Miller welder is on the wish list. A 115v unit to be used primarily for sheet metal.
While Super In Law is working the wheelhouse piece I started to look at the outside front sway bar reinforcement pieces. Not exactly plug and play on a 914.
The Mad Dog piece is a little more than we need for a street car. So Doug and I decided that modifying the ER piece was in order. Beings that I've always looked over the horizon. I wanted the brake line support to be repair and replaceable. I think SOP is to weld over it.
Here's mock up #1. Pretty simple pattern making. Push a pencil in the bolt hole. Then fill with a #8 bolt. Then cut a slit for the brake support with a Exact-o knife.
Final version. Gave the brake support enough space so that the welds wouldn't touch it. Used the inside plate to pull it into place. Again used self tapers to snug it down tight. But even with the screws, lots of hammer work to keep it nice and flat.
All glued down .................
Looks like it moved about 1.5 mms counter clockwise after I snugged it down.
No real issue other then bugging me.
I'll pull one of Mark's sway bar bushing cups out of his plating stash to check for welding clearance.
Based on this shot there shouldn't be any issues. But I don't want it to be an issue after paint when Doug's putting it back together.
Onto the inside. Looks like the hillbillies used a crow bar to open up the space for the inner sway bar support.
Trimmed it up the best I could without cutting out and welding in a new piece.
Left side all done. Right outer piece marked and ready for the band saw.
Super In Law continues with the wheelhouse wall. Did a couple slits and welds to create the battery tray perch, turned out nice. With all the twists and turns its taking a bit get the cut out nice and tight. Big gap = hotter weld = a big melted mess. Patience is a virtue. Plus I have the luxury of not worrying about how long it's taking him. $$
The hard part is trying to recreate the circled portion without a bunch of hammer work.
Won't spend too much time as its behind the battery tray. But it will nice and tidy.
Made a house call and picked up Doug's front sway bar and bear blocks. That way I can make sure the sway bar is in side to side alignment. Tune it till it turns like butter.
Which is complicated a bit by welding in the tub stiffeners. The ER/Tarret bar add another complication. The bar is turned down the last 5 inches and won't go completely thru the bearing block. So I have to tear it all the way down each time I need to tweak the tub.
Had to run to Ace to get a larger UniBit. Up to 1 3/8.
With the right side all locked down and tuned up straight. We'll lock down the left prior to tacking in the stiffener.
It took me a while but I can finally see the deviation in the tolerance as it come thru the bearing block. Josh at Rothsport had to beat on me a while.
This allows you to know which way to tweak the tub. I will say its a little easier with the square cut end. Two corners will be tight. Two will show just the slightest gap. Ever so slight, 1000ths.
Here's a couple better shots of what I was trying to describe. The bar is being held by the left bearing but it is perfectly centered in the right hole.
Here's the install of the left stiffener and bearing.
I used my factory sway bar support to pull the center pieces nice and tight.
After lunch it was time to start welding in the hell hole / wheel house patch panel.
It takes a lot of tuning and tinkering to get to a nice and tight fit. The bottom is tied back to the long. The rest I'll get to in the AM.
Wheelhouse welded in and covered with cold galvanizing spray.
Slow and steady keeps it nice and flat. Used a 3" 36gr RoLoc on a 2" holder to smooth down the seam. Finish it with 80gr on a 3" mini DA.
The hell hole ramp is about half way welded in. Forgot to shoot any pictures. Left early so I could stop at Immediate Care. Have some kind of cold I can't shake.
Just did the exact same repair the same way. Great job.
Took most of Sunday off to try and beat this virus ..............
Here's where we started this am (Monday).
The top of the engine tray patch needs a little more polishing. But I won't get too carried away with it, it will all get covered up with seam sealer.
After a quick coating of cold galvanizing spray ......................
Back from WCR and back to work.
Time to install the new battery tray combo.I decided to give Adam from RD's technique a shot. I usually install it in two pieces. This will make for an easier removal if needed in the future.
Trickiest part is the weld on the upper right side.
Looked at 3 or 4 cars here at the shop and all had had their battery trays replaced.
All had some pretty ugly welds on the right side. So I kept it pretty simple. Two long stick welds. Started the puddle on the long and pulled it up to the battery tray.
The RD pile of new parts is getting smaller. Plus the 1/2 floor pan.
I'll start with the 6 cylinder motor mount in the am.
Started the day with pulling out the plasma cutter. I cut the door seal channel section I need to replace/repair Doug's door from one of the doors off my POS parts car.
Took a bit of work but I got what I needed cut out.
Then I trimmed it down some more ...............
Here's what I ended up with. It will need a couple patches. But much better that what was there. Didn't look like much before I ran it thru the blast cabinet.
This piece was removed by drilling a hole thru the spot welds and slowly and softly chiseling off/out the spot welds without twisting the small piece. It takes a bit of patience.
Next Saturday Project :
Getting the parts car prepared to remove the cowl. Frunk hood, wiper motor, dash and misc. tidbits.
After everything is cleared out of the way and I take the time to look at the spot welding.
Getting the part out is going to be a bit tricky. The welded on fenders create quite dilemma. By itself, not a real issue with the Sawzall. But I might need the top of the fender too. Yet too be determined.
Here is the location I keep staring at. This is one of the worst spots for rust creeping back up and destroying a $10k plus paint job.
The body tie is a fairly solid piece. But moisture gets in between the fender and cowl and the cancer begins.
I remember when Jeff Hail was there on his project. But his fenders were off.
The problem is I want to save this portion too .................
We did this portion on my project car many years ago. But not both the fender and the cowl.
Time to dive into the deep end .................
Went back and looked at the cowl on the project car.
Wiper pivot holes ................
Its amazing what Bondo can cover up .............
Tie in looks nice and solid.
So out she came.
Cut line ................
Time to walk out of the trauma center .............
So lets go burn some metal ...............
Time for the 6 cylinder motor mount.
I did go back and grind down the welds in the center after the photo.
Went back and read Mark's comments on the alignment. Pretty straight forward, side to side centered (arrows). Then used the other two straight lines for the vertical.
That was fun ..................
Back to trimming off/out the portion of the cowl I left on the dash flange.
This is what needs to come off .............
On we go ............
Ground off the primer to expose the spot welds. This time I used the nose of the belt sander to dig a hole in the spot weld. Didn't drill any holes.
Took off about 6 inches at a time.
Finished up the engine side of the front 914-6 engine mount.
Rubber mount from URO (we'll give it a try as it's looks decent enough), main mount from Ben (of 914-6 SS heat exchanger fame) that was powder coated satin black and the 2 sandwich blocks from another Ben (thenewgarage 1970 914-6 - #2401 build thread). Ben's sandwich blocks are very nice and put to shame the shoddy set I received from Freisinger Motorsport in Germany....for a fraction of the cost too.
Also all new hardware.
Quick clean up of the original jack.
Wanted a bit of patina on this one.
Re-plated the springs in clear zinc and did all the bits and pieces in black oxide.
Just cleaned up the main tube and gave that a quick home black oxide treatment using an Eastman kit.
Painted the round base and the nose satin black.
Good enough and preserves "some" of the character of the car.
Just received these bad boys in the mail from Elephant Racing.
Bilstein sport shock with coil over conversion kit, 150# spring with helper.
Hopefully a nice combination for predominantly street use with a bit of auto-cross and track days thrown in there as well.
Love the decals with the Nurburgring on there....
Welded in Super In Laws tuned up door seal channel. I'm pondering using JB Weld the seal channels on both door to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting back behind them again. Create a nice smooth surface.
Next onto to cutting out the cowl. Kind of sacrificing a good fender to learn how its layered together. Because this was a CA car the channel looks to be solid all the way down. We'll melt the seam sealer out of the way once we get it completely removed.
Then dig down to the cowl. Looks to be three layers deep. Trying to figure out which came first, the chicken or the egg. Then figure out how to recreate it. If I can without having to remove a section of the fender.
Looking good.. Tackling many of the same things on my car.
Out came the cowl/windshield frame.
More info to come ............ forgot to shoot the pictures
Trimming down the cowl removed from the parts car. Trying to determine the assembly process as I'm peeling back the layers.
Starting point. Removing the fender portion first. The fender has a stiffener on the outside it supports an unknown air/drain gap that I didn't know existed. There's a 6 inch gap with no weld.
After fender portion removed .................
Lots more cut down pictures if someone needs more detail in the future. Cut off the window frame.
On to trimming the remaining dash portion off the cowl.
About ready for blasting ................
Working on cleaning out the gap on the project car. It's there, filled with debris and bondo.
Next engineering issuse. What to fabricate to weld in the cowl at the fender joint.
First task before it gets too hot. Blast the replacement cowl.
Then pulled the major dents out of the spare Leistritz muffler. It's ready to head to its new home after Doug gives it a paint job.
Then went to work on the 914-6 engine tin. This is the real deal. So it will need some tuning up. First obstacle to overcome is the attempt to repair with brazing years ago.
As I wait for a couple inquiries Matt sent out on a nicer cowl I decided it was time to
R & R the pedal support. Like always I take it out in small sections so I don't rip the parent material underneath. I also used the RotoCut on this application. Didn't want to damage the floor pan. I did drill thru in one spot ................
Prior to the application of cold galvanizing I welded up the pedal box water inlet.
Things that make you go hmmmm.
Bolted in then used 6 self tappers to snug it down tight. Still find the gas pedal holes in the new piece are a bit off. Have to elongate towards the pedal box.
Cold galvanizing on the floor pan. U-Pol weld thru primer on the pedal support.
I do remove the cold galvanizing with a squared off drill bit. I'm thinking much better penetration and a hell of a lot less weld thru primer splatter.
So while I'm burning metal I decide to weld up the other four water inlets on the front floor pan. Two had no cover and no seam sealer. Two had covers and a half ass application of seam sealer. So I glued them shut with the electric glue gun.
All tidied up ...................
I'll have Super In Law build a new CDI hanger to hang it off the side of the battery tray. New one needs to turn 90 degrees. Plus we'll add a couple supports back to the battery tray base.
This will give him a good chance to play with the bead roller. I just ordered the Woodward stand from Summit Racing. I have a feeling I'll have to buy the large set of dies too.
His next project will be carving a couple 3 or 4 wooden bucks to straighten out the trunk waves. I'll need to go shopping for a couple wooden mallets.
Today was the big day .................
Decided it was time to dig into fender to cowl rust. I'd been kind of dreading it.
Seems I'm always cutting on a perfectly good car (words of Jeff Gamroth). And it I'm always the bearer of bad news when it comes to finding rust. Plus I have this long term since of responsibility to the paint that will cover my work.
Decided I'd start with a small point of entry in case I get lucky and the tin worm hadn't started eating the second support layer of fender and the top of the hinge pillar.
Looks like my conservative swing at it paid off ................
No rust in the usual places. The cleaned portion is the inner/lower layer of the fender. It doesn't seem to get much attention.
Cut out the top of the inner fender to get down to the channel where the rust is hiding.
Keep cutting and digging.
After peeling back the layers I got both sides opened up and treated with OSPHO.
Taking a break from the cowl/fender. Applied cold galvanizing spray to the cut out section after the OSPHO had dried.
It's time to install the back half of floor.
1st order of business is installing the seat adjuster mount for the right seat. NA on a 71.
Then I sealed up the weld penetration from the 6 motor mount with cold galvanizing spray.
Then it was time to start tuning up all the nicks and cuts on the floor pan flange.
What couldn't be blipped in and welding is getting patched up.
Tomorrows the day ....................
Thank You .................
Today should be a big day. The rear floor pan is visually a big piece of the project.
Then on to all the brake and seat tidbits .............
As I'm standing in the shower preparing for the day ahead. Forgot to mention that prepping the tunnel both the new rear bottom and the enclosed front is the first thing on the days agenda. I'll let that dry as I finishing the remaining patches.
Saturdays work ................ didn't quite get it welded in.
1st. Sprayed the new bottom with cold galvanizing spray.
Then after some close inspection of the remaining tunnel I decided that it will need to be treated/sealed up.
The blasting and epoxy primer didn't quite get in there. So I'd going to build a couple plugs for the cable tubes and we'll treat it with OSPHO then seal it up with frame coating.
Continued with bringing the flange back to 100%. A couple more patches and a few more nicks and cuts.
Before it gets smoothed down with the RoLoc disk.
I'd decided that the 1/2" of excess material on the outside of the floor pan wasn't going to cut it on this car. So Super In Law built me a fence for my Jet band saw.
Forgot the before shot. But here's the after 1/2" was trimmed off.
Now it fits into the recess like it should. Shot of the recess under the rear jack point.
Now for the money cut. I like to put it under the cross member so its not seen. But it takes a bit of patience not to cut the tubes.
When it comes time to weld I'll pound out a piece of copper pipe to create a plate between the pipe and the weld. More on that later.
Ready to be welded in after the tunnel gets treated.
That Eastwood internal frame coating system looks like a good way to go.
Very nice...looks clean.
Seems like I've been gone forever ....................
Thursday and Friday's work.
1. Finished up the muffler that Doug is selling to a friend here in PDX.
2. Blasted the remaining bondo from the donor cowl. . Not real pretty, but it can be fixed. Doug is going to scour the web for a new one. I asked Gary Emory at Parts Obsolete to dig thru his stash.
I could measure the bondo with a yardstick ................. pretty lazy work.
Super In law starting to work on the patch patterns ................. In Case It Needs To Be Used.
Now the fun stuff, new metal.
Prepped the flanges with U-Pol Copper Weld Thru Primer. Way less splatter.
Built a removalable copper backer to protect the accelerator tube.
I like putting the seam under the center support. 1. I don't have to grind down the backside penetration which makes it stronger. 2. The obvious, its hidden.
Both the center support and tunnel will be coated with Eastwood Frame Coating.
Downside you can't use butt weld clamps so its pretty tedious and slow going. Basically I tune the butt weld perfectly flat one inch at a time. Making a stitch about every inch. Then come back and link the stitches.
Used self taping screws in every other rosette hole.
Butt weld complete and finished up ...................
You don't need to over grind, this will be schutzed.
Just received back some parts from Burnham Performance out of Camarillo, CA.
Can highly recommend them.
The turnaround wasn't much over 2 weeks time.
First were my MFI throttle bodies that were bored out to S/RS spec (engine will be a 2.7 RS MFI).
Larger butterflies installed.
Everything re-plated with a Dow coating for the throttle bodies themselves.
Works of art I think.
Love the detail.
One of the fun parts about doing a 914-6 conversion is coming up with a game plan for the wiring harness action in the engine bay.
Going from a 914-4 wiring harness through a 914-6 engine relay board and interfacing it all with an MFI engine does have it's challenges.
I wanted to make use of as much of the existing wiring in the 914-4 wiring harness as possible.
Also needed to use the 914-6 relay as there is something called an RPM transducer (or speed switch) that is nice to have with an MFI system to eliminate backfiring on deaccerlation.
Plus I'm going "old school" and using the on board voltage regulator vs. a built-in regulator in the alternator (newer ones are this way).
So here's me with wiring diagrams for a 1971 914-4, 914-6, and 1973 911 E,S,RS trying to figure out what goes where.
This was made all the more challenging by the fact that my wife and I just had twins.
Talk about reinventing the wheel a couple of times.
I'd get so far with my plan of action then it was time for the twins.
Then where was I? How far did I get?
Maddening really, but eventually I got there.
Had to learn how the std Porsche round relays worked, how the cold start relay and accompanying thermo-time switch works, and how the RPM transducer and fuel shutoff solenoid on the MFI pump worked.
After that....simple as connecting the dots.
I'll have to add a couple of additional wires down the tunnel for the different 911 gauges I'll be using....oil pressure/oil temp.
But everything else can be dovetailed into the existing wiring.
Even on the 914-6 engine relay board, I'm repurposing the rear window heater relay as the fuel pump relay.
Eventually, I put together my own 914-6 relay panel current flow/wiring diagram.
All the various switches and relays attached.
Nice NOS 1971 914-4 chassis wiring harness that I purchased from Aase Porsche many moons ago.
Of course laying this all out in the comfort of my air-conditioned office at home.
It's time for the throw down to begin ............
I'm taking a couple weeks off from Rothsport to focus on getting Doug's car finished up.
Looks like a I could have timed it a little better. PDX forecast for the next few days, over 100.
Beautiful work... I could watch it all day.
Latest Porsche porn to show up at my doorstep.
MFI pump rebuilt and upgraded to S/RS spec.
Sent out to MFI Werks (Mark Jung) here in Oregon.
He is the local wizard in rebuilding and modifying 911 MFI pumps.
Went through the pump completely replacing some worn parts and putting together a new space cam (S/RS spec) that can feed the new 2.7 engine.
All parts cleaned, painted, re-plated, etc.
As new from the factory.
All 6 injectors were checked for spray pattern, etc. Found a deficient one and replaced.
Pity a lot of this wonderful stuff is pretty invisible on a 914-6 engine.
Today I delivered a mountain of engine parts to Rothsport Racing here in the Portland, Oregon area.
Didn't know a disassembled 911 took up so much space in my garage, but now it's out.
Over the coming months these boxes of parts will be transformed into a 2.7 RS spec MFI engine making about 210hp.
Should be just about right for the narrow bodied GT vision of a car I have.
They'll also be reworking the gearbox.
904 mainshaft with some fun gearing that should make this car sing....and really move out.
Jeff (Rothsport) is adding pressure to the Throwdown .................. the day I start he calls for the engine parts. LOL.
Throwdown Day #1.
While I'm working on the floor Super In Law is working on the patches for the cowl.
Which involves creating jigs for the reassembly. The last few weeks I went thru both Parts Obsolete and High Performance House and didn't find a cowl/windshield. So we'll make the donor piece gooder than new.
Before I continue with the floor weld in it was time to check the door gaps, all is well.
I tweaked one just a smidgen to match Matt's doors. The H measurement is kind of ambiguous, the latch plate angles back. The 1039mm is basically dead center in the latch. But dead center is covered by the brace plate. One side F is a little tight, 2mm. Which throws off the X a smidgen. All still within tolerances but I'll tweak a little when the floors done and we weld in the cowl. Then back to burning metal.
Got the inside portion of the floor all welded in.
This one I welded from the old metal to the new. I might try going the other direction next time. The heat needed for the new metal is a bit much for the outside edge of the old flange. I've been called anal and Rembrandt. LOL. It really doesn't make a lot of difference it all gets covered by seam sealer. But I know ............
Primarily used the belt sander to tune up the welds.
Ended the day with the inside temp at 98. Helps keep the metal warm .......
Throwdown Day #2.
Patched the cut out in the corner first thing.
Finished up the tuning up of the welds on the inside. Then it was time to get down to business. Welding the floor to the engine firewall. Because this was a Rust Free car there wasn't too much damage/degradation to the flange.
Could have used a couple more Vise Grips and clamps. LOL. All the weld thru primer seen thru the rosette holes was removed with a squared off 1/8" drill bit.
Forgot to resize. I'll leave to show the detail.
Ended the day right on schedule.
At days end inside temp 100. Outside 104. Oh baby.
Doug sent me a text reminding me that Rothsport has AC. LOL.
Jack points ready for the AM.
Day #3 ....................
All pieces installed with U-Pol copper based weld thru primer. The new RD sheet metal was brushed with a wire wheel. Then wiped down with paint prep. Then sprayed with weld thru primer.
Beginning of the day ..............
Welds not tuned up yet. I'm going to lengthen my stick out to get a little more heat. I'm getting too used to the .030 wire at Rothsport.
Built up seat brackets.
Outside brackets located and attached with self tapping screws.
Quitting time ...................
Everything is looking great.
After such a hot day in your shop, sure hope you and Jack had time for a nice cool one after work?
Day #4 on the ThrowDown.
Worked on the reworking of the CDI bracket for mounting to the battery tray. The design.
Bracket trimmed down.
Both ends of the ECU bracket will be trimmed off and rounded. A couple more mounting nuts will be welded to the ECU bracket. Flange on the battery tray will get extended to put the corner ECU mounting hole in the right place. Plus another mounting hole. I'll give the new right side a little tune up with the belt sander. Then I'll weld the CDI bracket to the ECU bracket.
Then off to powder coating. Super In Law modified the CDI bracket.
Unboxed the Mad Dog 914 GT stiffening kit. Cleaned with grease and wax remover. Then sprayed with U-Pol weld thru primer.
Laid out the engine tin and went back thru it again to make sure it was ready for powder coating. Doug has a new over the muffler piece coming from RD. His blasted piece had a few too many PO mods. The black piece is a pattern piece from Rothsport in case I needed to repair it. Is the new RD piece cut away for the chain tensioner lines ? That will need to be done before powder coating.
The seat belt bracket weld in will come tonight. Slept in (took wife to the movies), its time to go back out to the shop. Super In Law is chomping at the bit.
Now where was I. Here's Rick's measurements to get you started.
I used the seat frame to set the alignment of the inner seat bracket.
Drivers side went in without a hitch.
On this early car setting the left seat is even easier. You still have the solid nutserts in the cross member.
That was the end of the good times on the passenger seat.
I installed (welded in) the adjustment bracket 3/32" off.
I used the usual measurement 11" on center from the outside wall. Checked 3 other cars here on sight. But to get the seat 100% straight ahead, it was off. So it had to come out. Dammit ............
But by the end of the day I was back on track. Still pissed ....................
Started Day #5 locating my second left seat frame to confirm the mounting alignment.
Then it was on to the preparing the right rear wheelhouse for the Mad Dog 914 GT stiffener panels.
All of the epoxy primer needs to be removed from under the outside edge of the panels.
If left, it would add impuritys into the weld.
Then it was time to start pounding.
Needed to cut one slit ...................
Then it was time to fit, hammer, fit, hammer, fit, hammer. Then start screwing it down tight.
All of the above pretty simple. This one not so much. Multiple angles and quite a few nip and tucks.
As I'm working on the chassis Super In Law is refurbishing the cowl .................
Fell asleep last night while writing the post ...........
The underneath piece is the only tricking one. It twists and turns a couple directions. I marked where I trimmed things off to get a nice tight fit.
Reminds me of being in rally car build mode.
When it comes time to start welding. I'll flaten the tip of a drill bit to scrape off the epoxy as I weld each rosette.
When these stiffening plates are welded in....is it just the rosette welds or do you also seam weld the perimeter as well? Definitely will add some strength to the tub.
Or do you just use seam sealer around the perimeter of each stiffening plate to keep moisture and corrosion away?
Calls out seam welded too. Edges have been prepped for seam welding.
You're right, I got the Miller cranked up even for the rosettes. 16ga being welded to an additional 2 layers.
I'm pretty anal about the heat build up in the steel. Every new rosette isn't welded until the area is cooled to 105 degrees or less. I use the infrared to test as I go.
Installed the 5 right side stiffeners. Nothing new to show.
Then it was time to start welding some rosettes ..........................
2 down and 8 pieces to go ..........
Then I'll go back and do the seam welding.
Here's a couple shots of my door gap measurement tool.
One end on the door light switch. The other would actually sit right in the middle of the door latch. So on the outside it's a couple mm's from the radius.
Tool is piece of bar stock cut to 1039mm. Easy to grab and measure.
I'm checking it every time a weld in a new piece.
Day #7. Worked a little over a half day. Finished up the rosette weld in on the right side. I have 2 of the left side welded in.
Spent the other half of the day beginning to assemble and install the suspension and brakes on Matt's restoration.
Day #8. Only put in a couple hours welding yesterday. I'm trying to run 2 races. Get Doug's car to paint. Get Matt's car put together so he can make it to Okteenerfest. Planning on another 2 hours this am. All the rosettes will be welded in and ground down.
The rosette welding has been completed on both sides. Pretty tedious.
I'm thinking the seam welding will be worse. I'll do it in 1" stitches.
Nice thing is I'll be able to tune the heat down. I only need to weld to the outer layer.
This is the end of the Throw Down. Heading to the Eagle Cap Wilderness for a 6 day backpacking trip.
Like always, I'd didn't get as far as I wanted too. But put a good dent in it.
While Cary's off hiking in the woods collecting mushrooms....
Been working on the NOS wiring harness some more.
Although NOS, untouched and basically new....sitting on the shelf for 40+ years has it's issues.
Most of the wrapping tape has lost it's stick-um if that's a word for it.
It all needed replacing.
Additionally, the NOS 1971 wiring harness doesn't come with all the little bits of aux wiring you need....like the jumper between the two horns up front.
My original one, like the main wiring harness, was in rough shape.
Lots of paint overspray, iffy connectors and a cracking sheath meant a new one was in order.
So after about 30 minutes I came up with following replacement.
Nearly factory (except for the wire colors) and will more than meet my needs.
Amazing what you can do when you've got the right materials and some patience.
I've always got on hand the correct wire connectors and the right tool for the job.
Add in some heat shrink tubing from the local hardware store and you're in business.
If the local hardware/auto parts store doesn't have what I need....I go to Belmetric for the electrical non-insulated connectors and McMaster-Carr for special heat shrink tubing and plastic sheathing materials.
Wet sanded and painted my "white" headlight surrounds.
They were beyond help from a simple bleach soaking.
I used a paint made for plastic and the color was heirloom white.
Put a couple coats of clear on it.
Should be great for a driver.
Back at it. Seam welded in the left 3 fender portions of the Mad Dog GT stiffening kit.
With cooling down between welds it took about 4 hours, 3-4 stitches at a time.
5-6 and you could hear the the metal expand under the weld. Too much.
It's Tuesday and back at the welder.
First piece of the day was the left suspension tie stiffener. Had a few issues with impurity's coming up thru the weld. Primarily epoxy primer down in the crack and crevices. It doesn't take that great a picture after I get it all tidied up.
Then on to the left long "elbow" piece. Decided to do the top seam first. Might as well get the hard part out of the way. Pretty tricky getting in there. I was triggering the MIG gun with the left hand and guiding the stick out with my right. But I had to dig out my Miller scuba mask to get my head in there. The warmer weather made using the scuba mask much easier. it didn't seem to steam up. Or maybe it was the taking it off while letting it cool.
Then I seam welded the left and bottom. Decided on three stitches attaching it to the jack point. Just in case in 50 year it needs to come off.
Then onto welding in the right 3 piece inner fender stiffener combo. Ended the day about half way completed.
Fiddling around with my side shift rear rod today.
The one I had to work with was really worn badly back at the rear of the car.
Obviously the plastic bushing had worn out allowing the rod to rub back and forth
on the rear housing.
I tried to clean it up the best I could with a file, but the rod wasn't really moving in the
new plastic bushing all that smoothly.
A quick search online for a new rear rod was not what I wanted to hear.
AA has one for a mere $500.
I was worried that another 2nd hand rod would be worn as badly as well.
Really....how many people keep that rear plastic bushing in great shape or change them out at all?
So instead I removed the old end from the rod.
This took some doing as I needed to cut back far enough to get through all the spot welds holding the end into the bar.
But finally had success.
Next I needed to find a replacement rod end.
McMaster-Carr is one of my "go to" places for tough to find items.
I ended up buying a foot long piece of "tight tolerance multipurpose O1 tool steel rod."
Tight tolerance is the key word here.
They have a lot of different rod diameters....not just your typical 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" etc.
Careful measuring yielded me purchasing the 0.6094" diameter rod.
This worked fine but needed a bit of fine tuning on the ends.
The 0.594" diameter would have worked better I think.
But in the end, I sawed my new rod to the correct length and drilled a new hole for the conical screw.
Then I aligned the hole for the conical screw; I had marked the rod in yellow paint where the hole was aligned previously.
Then hammered it into place.
Next time I'm over at Cary's shop (MiddleMotors), I'll get him to tack weld this guy into permanent position.
A coat of paint and it will be like new again.
This new rod end will move in the plastic bushing like a greased pig now.
Certainly ready for the next 100k miles....
And the best part....a 10 dollar fix beats a $500 new part every day of the week.
Quick pic sent to me today of the 2.7RS short block that Rothsport is building for me.
Case is a 7R variety.
Long block should be complete in the next week (or two).
Engine will have S cams and S/RS spec MFI for the induction.
My new seatbelts arrived from Seatbelt Planet today.
A bit of a custom application.
Sent them my tongues as I wanted to use them and the factory receivers.
The belts and retractor mechanism and other hardware are all new.
These will be a big improvement over the "fixed" early belts that a 71 would come with.
I've had the seat belt mechanism provisions from a later car welded into my back pad sheet metal to bring the car up to modern seat belt capability.
Thanks to Cary and Middle Motors for all that work.
The belts I chose are navy blue to go with my tartan plaid seats.
Subtle hopefully but custom and different from stock.
Also today in the mail arrived my "custom" gear shift knob.
Not sure how to describe this other than an "old world craftsman" making these.
He's from Mexico and a lot of guys on the 911S Early registry put these in their cars.
I saw one that caught my eye (checkered pattern) and went with that plus some of my own ideas.
This guy uses exotic woods and it's all hand crafted (inlayed, laminated, the works) to come up with "one of kind" knobs.
Just what my car needed I thought.
Suppose you need to know where all the gears are? Think I can handle that one. Ha
Mated to my side shift transmission updates.
Last on the agenda for today was finishing up the mods to my NOS chassis wiring harness.
Finished hooking up everything to the gauges today which entailed coming up with a couple of ground "jumpers" for the 911 gauges I added.
There's a bit of additional wiring that needs to happen when you're transplanting a 911 six cylinder engine into the car.
My special crimpers and heat shrink plus some brown wiring took care of it.
Tomorrow I'll post pics of the entire NOS harness with the new harness tape and "mods."
Worked on getting the new gauges all hooked up into the NOS 71 wiring harness.
This necessitated adding a couple of ground jumpers and additional wires.
You'll see the orange wire coming in from the left.
That will feed the oil pressure signal from the engine.
The amber warning light will become my low fuel warning light.
Since I don't have the 914-4 multi-gauge anymore, I had North Hollywood Speedo put a fuel gauge in the bottom of the tach.
There was no provision anymore for a low fuel warning light.
Anyway....all the terminals or bulbs have a dedicated wire now and should work as desired.
Quite a busy area this is behind your gauges.
Refurbished the 914-6 engine relay panel I had sourced.
A thorough cleaning was necessary.
A couple of the copper traces on the backside were not making good contact with the connector on the front of the board.
These needed to be re-soldered.
Additionally, the potting on the backside had seen it's better days.
I re-potted that with some interesting stuff.
It's called Magic Gel 300 and it's made by Ray Tech.
A 2 part solution you mix up and "gels" up in about 10 minutes time.
I like it because it's translucent....so you can see the copper traces on the backside.
Finally I had to locate a couple of relays for the panel.
The RPM transducer (box at the top) was spendy but necessary I thought with the MFI motor I had planned for.
This electronic gizmo shuts off fuel to the MFI pump when you are coasting both saving you fuel and preventing back firing.
The NOS 71 wiring harness in all it's splendor.
This was purchased from Aase Porsche a couple years ago.
My harness had been hacked up pretty extensively over it's lifetime.
Thought it would be nice to have a fresh/virgin harness to work with.
Most of the harness could be used without too many changes.
Things I did change though included:
1) Relocating the fuel pump to the front trunk, so needed to add a wire into the main harness for this.
2) Added an additional wire into the main harness for the oil pressure gauge.
3) Rerouted most of the wires in the 14 pin connector that goes into the engine relay board.
4) Added a JWest fog light module.
All the harness wrap tape on my NOS 71 wiring harness had seen it's better days.
Most of the glue had given up many years ago I think.
I removed all of the old tape and replaced with 914 Rubber's harness tape.
It is the correct width and has a nice cloth topside.
I augmented this with some similar tape of 1/2" width for doing the junctions and ends of the harness.
Finally I switched out the old fuse panel for a new one I purchased on eBay.
Installed in my newly painted fuse panel frame with new fuses and a new cover completed this part of the project.
The chassis electrics are all ready to go....
As the engine gets built up, the engine wiring harness will be put together.
Likely going with Kroon out of Holland for this.
Very nice work.
this is a great read... well done and keep at it
I'm back. Had to rest up a bit after the throw down on Matt's car.
Task #1 today.
Tune up and mount the AA 914-6 CDI hanger bracket reproduction.
Needs a little work. Both sides need a little squaring up. And the corners need a little rounding. This all done on the belt/disk sander. So you don't take off too much material.
Then a new center hole needs to be drilled and a new nut welded on. But before that, the old nut needs to be removed and the hole welded in.
Then a test fit before it heads to Rothsport with the 914-6 engine tin for powder coating.
Next stop, finish welding in the right rear MadDog chassis stiffener.
With the 40 degree drop in ambient temp welding went much smoother and faster.
One of the signature MiddleMotors touches. The floor pan plugs removed from the old removed floor pan and cut into the new.
Last thing at the end of the day. Wiping down the inner long stiffening kit with wax and grease remover. That's where we'll start tomorrow. That's after we go and look at a used 2 post lift and get supplies at the welding store.
It's so nice to see another '71 1.7 Light Ivory to be reborn again! You're doing a fantastic job with amazing patience & attention to detail.
Man o man Doug, I just love this thread and you ability to embrace scope creep!
First order of business today was installing the e-brake cable guide/cover.
First step, coat the underside with weld thru primer.
Then glue it down with the electric glue gun ..............
Then onto installing the Mad Dog Motorsports inner long stiffener kit.
I decided to tackle the hardest side first, the left. Which has all e-brake hardware and handle cut out. It needed quite a bit of tuning to get the sanitary fit that I liked.
1st. A little more space around the rest.
Plus I enlarged the opening for pivot.
Here's a couple shots for the future showing that the inside of both the left and right sides have been coated with U-Pol copper weld thru primer, the good stuff.
Here's a shot of the marked out rosette holes that need to have the epoxy primer sanded off so it doesn't put impurities in my welds.
Here's where I ended the day. Both the left and right sides screwed into place and ready for welding.
Almost 200 #10 self taping screws.
Must have forgot to add last night when I finished. So we'll do this again.
Saturday started with fitting and trimming the back panel on the Mad Dog inner long stiffener kit.
While the piece is still flat bend the center corners out. Once you bend the long section you cant get a tool in there.
Biggest issue of the day was that the holes to mount the back pad don't line up. Always something. The left inside one was pretty close and could be used. But I decided to enlarge it too so they all matched.
In the corners I cut down one of the ties so it would lay down nice and tight. Plus added another screw hole to keep things tight.
After the fitting was completed it too got a coating of weld thru primer on the back side. Plus all the rosette holes were marked and the epoxy primer was removed with 80gr on the 13" belt sander.
After you start installing the piece with about 50 1/2" self tapping screws you'll want to slit the cone tie holes so you can pean them down flat. Which once again gives you a tighter weld. Which takes less time and heat.
Here she is in all her glory.
Arrows call out the elongated back pad hold down holes.
Super clean install you have going there, Cary.
Very nice... loving this build
Then we begin the tedious process of welding in all the rosette holes. Followed by the seam welding.
Following the instruction sheet. Weld in two on one panel then two on the next and so on. Seems to work good. By the time I get back to the first one its back to room temp.
Almost wish I had two welders for speed. Doing the work on the rotisserie does have its weak points. It would take to long to climb to climb in and out. So I have a work station on both sides of the car. Edit : But beings that our rotisserie is perfectly balanced I don't have to lock it down when I switch from side to side.
Only other tidbit I can add. Put a tack in the bottom of the cone hole to keep the bottom nice and tight.
Scored a nice set of early 911 S aluminum calipers this past week on Ebay for a great price.
I cleaned them up (sorry no pics), and they looked nearly brand new.
No corrosion on the outside.
Perhaps had been rebuilt once in the past?
Still sent them out to PMB Performance to get the "spa" treatment.
Might need pistons, seals for sure, re-anodizing, new compensation pipe, etc.
Will come back with an interesting or let's say unusual finish for an S caliper.
They said these might be the only ones in the world with this finish.
When I receive them, I'll post pics.
The difference between these S calipers and the A calipers I currently have is shocking to say the least.
Eventually I definitely want to get a set of alloy 914-6 style rear calipers as well.
Is Eric still making alloy rear calipers?? I thought they maybe nla?
Tuesday night Moonlighting ...........
Three and 1/2 hours of straight rosette welding. Round and round.
My MillerMatic 180 is working like dream. Running .023 wire at level 7 on Millermatic mode. Millermatic compensates for all my weird angles and stick out.
Back panel rosettes completed.
Sides have about 1/3 left to go.
Rosettes are finished. Now its time to remove the epoxy from around the edges so I can begin the seam/stitch welding. Rosettes have yet to sanded/ground down.
Looks like 5 stitches gets me to 400 degrees. 5 stitches is about an inch.
Spent 3 hours yesterday welding the horizontal seams. One inch at a time.
6" flapper on the back panel. Figuring out how I'm going to finish it.
Surprising how well I got the epoxy removed. Very few spots had impurities pop thru the puddle.
After the morning Porsche get together I snuck out to the shop and seam welded for another 3 hours. Inch by Inch ..............
I'll try and sneak back out there Tuesday night for another 3 hours. Should just about get it done.
Look who's in the #1 spot in the Rothsport Racing engine room.
Jeff said the intake/induction goes on tomorrow.
More Rothsport porn ..................
THAT'S not a complicated induction system.
Looks so gorgeous.....!!!!!!!
Now that the inner long stiffeners are welded in it's time to start crossing things off the list.
#1. Drill drain hole into new right engine shelf in Hell Hole. Your looking at it upside down on the rotisserie.
#2. Attack rust holes found in the frunk/nose panel brace.
#3. After cutting out the inside and cleaning it with a knotted brush. I found holes on the inside of the fender. Once again, I feel like the bearer of bad news.
Must have been packed with something that would retain moisture at some time.
We'll try hand forming the rounded fender portion. But I might need to create it on the mondo slip roller at Rothsport.
#4. Doug stopped by around noon and dropped of the shift that needs a couple welds.
#5. Then on to the primary project of the day. Rust sections is the frunk seal channel.
This is the section in front of the latch. The front fence section was removed first so I could get down to the lower layer.
Here's a see thru shot of the frunk support/front liner fender hole.
Here's a spot that I missed yesterday.
Onto fixing the channel in front of the latch ...............
Had to give my patch a little pinch on the shrinker to get the shape I wanted.
Onto the welding.
Gooder as new .................
Then onto trimming the cowl.
First thing was to pull the window frame off the donor cowl.
Then trimmed the cowl a couple times to get it to fit into its spot. Close, but we have another 1/4" to go.
Here's another spot on the left headlight bucket.
Will probably work Tuesday night to tackle this spot.
Perfect timing. I have the very same set of trunk channel rust repairs as near-term to-dos. Lots of pics, please?
Tuesday Night Work :
Welded in the patch above the right light bucket. Wasn't real bad, but easily fixable.
Basically cut off/out the vertical portion and replaced it.
These are all hand cut. Next section I'll have sheared pieces. Cutting some various widths today at Rothsport.
On to the messy one.
Looks like someone had been there before me ......... looks like a patch underneath.
Which caused some grief while de-layering it.
The de-layering begins. Looking from the front. The left channel was the last to go on. So its the first to come off. Basically with all the messy mig repairs and the metal degradation I just start thinning down the metal with the edge of the cutting wheel n the die grinder.
Then I test the piece with the linesman pliers. 1. to check that I've thinned it enough. 2. looking for spot welds to thin down some more. With the rust caused metal degradation on the top of the metal. Some times the spot welds can't be seen. They have to be found.
Wiggle... Wiggle. Pop goes the spot weld.
A little more work the die grinder and the left top piece is off. Except for the portion stuck in the mig repair.
The left piece is 20 gauge.
Then I begin to cut out/off the formed section of the light bucket.
I did finish the cut out. Forgot to shoot the last picture.
In looking at the pictures it looks like I'll need a third size metal strip to repair the channels. I have the measurements for the ones in the yellow boxes. But the orange/red box looks to be a little wider.
After I do these by hand and figure out the exact size. I'll have them made for future repairs. Should be available thru 914 Rubber in the future.
Super In Law work ................
Used the 75+ bracket for the fuel pump mount. Used the rubber mounts from the -74 pump. Only issue, mounts are too long and too soft. Need to be half as tall and twice as wide. I'll research on Sunday.
Finished up the right headlight to front panel frunk seal channel repair.
Forgot to shoot pictures making the patch pieces. After shearing them at Rothsport it was pretty easy. The HF floor brake worked great. Made the correct bend on the first pass on both pieces.
Forgot to mention the opened area was treated with OSPHO before I left on Tuesday night.
Needed just a little dab with the stretcher to get the arc.
Welded in and sprayed with U-Pol cooper weld thru primer.
Second layer welded in and coated with cold galvanizing.
Only thing I'd do different next time. Have a 1/2" mini belt sander. And only use an 80 grit belt. The 36 was a bit too much. A little wavy/bumper. Before the car leaves I'll go over the entire frunk channel and smooth out the bumpy spots with a skim coat of JB Weld.
Welding Note :
Nice work....yep, those channels are always prone to rust & crud....had the same problem on mine, as probably most folks, too....just a poor design.
Start a new thread about "Trunk Channel Repair", add all these recent pics and let's make it a Classic!
Thanks for all the detailed pics. Just what I need!
Added another seat belt anchor for the right seat. Beings that this is a 71 and had a fixed seat and we've adding the adjuster and the seat belt pockets. I thought the flexible stand up seat belt receiver should both be aligned. I'd harvested a plate off one the parts cars so away I went.
Cut the hole with the 3/4" mark on the step bit.
1/4" rosette holes and #10 screws. Makes for a solid weld. Start the weld with stick out at the edge of the inner screw holes and wind your way out. Bolt all the way in to protect the threads from splatter in both the hole and the bolt.
Heading to the welding store to pick up a new nozzle for the Miller welder.
Friday : fender and light bucket patches. Super In Law and Taylor are going to inventory all the harness tie downs on Matt's car and make sure we have them on Doug's car.
Friday the 13th.
First order of business is laying the Edd China cut out pattern onto the rolled patch material that Super In Law shaped last week.
Trimmed it to fit. Then treated the backside with weld thru primer to protect it forever.
Let the fun begin. It takes quite a bit tuning to get it in there nice and flat.
Next onto the inside patch panel.
1st. order of business. Add additional weld thru primer to the inside of the cavity.
Then create the patch panel pattern with the Edd China tape method.
Prep the backside again with weld thru primer.
Weld her in ..................
I'll come back and add the forgotten finished shot.
Next the cut out of the rust inside the right headlight bucket.
While I was welding in the fender patches Super In Law created a new patch for the headlight bucket. His first attempt was in 18ga, too thick. Re-created in 20 ga.
Here's where I ended the day ............
With all the traffic at MiddleMotors yesterday I didn't fire up the welder.
But I did have a little time to do some engineering work.
Measure up the rubber isolators on the 75+ fuel pump access we're going to do.
Looks like I'll order a set of these to see if I can tighten things up.
Taking measurement on Doug's 914-6 VW-Porsche emblem. But I needed to round a taillight and rear trunk lock to get the correct spacing.
Short day, headed to the Couv for a dinner party.
The "suspense" is killing me.
Can't wait until I see a fully functional cowling on this car again.
Everything is looking great.
Cary is a perfectionist....which is something I like....a lot.
Now if we could only get the rear emblem right-side-up. hahaha
Finish up the headlight bucket and drill the holes for the emblem and we'll be on to the cowl.
I'm kind waiting for my new Miller 115v 141 to arrive to start welding on the cowl. I'll load it with .023 Easy Grind wire for sheet metal only. Should ship on Monday.
But there's quite a bit of trimming and fabricating to do on the cowl before that. Primarily in the fender to cowl joint. Then recreating the 2 layers of the fender.
Played hooky from Rothsport today. Delivered my latest rally car dismantle to the body shop for some adjustments then out to Forest Grove.
Started with walking the car and welded up the nicks and 40 years worth of extra screw holes.
Next on the list, Doug asked that I inspect and tune up the bottom flange for dents and waves. So out came the hammers and dollies.
Then I tidied up the weld penetration left over form the inner long stiffener ties to the floor pan.
Next the $$$ work. Drilled the holes for the 914-6 VW Porsche emblem for the rear panel. Plus I filled the two holes for the old 914 emblem.
Last project for the day. Finish up the weld repair on the left headlight bucket.
Very productive 5 hours. Fun day.
Won't be too many pictures the next couple days. Lots of itty bitty detail work.
Starting with the fit on the outside edge. Its the first place I look on every car.
Shot for Doug ................
Decided to clean off the flash rust with Ospho and a red 3m pad.
Go back to post #241 to look at the cut out/back of the fender to cowl joint.
We begin the reverse engineering of the cowl to fender joint.
Started with a shot from the Metal Surgeons first 914 World 914-6 restoration I believe.
Emailed Pete at RD to see if they have a cowl/windshield in the NOS stash. If so, if he could send me some detail on the joint.
Then I dug into my own stash of harvested parts and found some more detail.
Super In Law has his thinking cap on ............
First thing this AM I red padded the Ospho'd cowl and paint the under side with cold galvanized in case it gets missed on the epoxy touch up before paint.
The hinge post gave me all the info I needed for the reverse engineering.
Here's a shot of the backside of the hinge post after all the seam sealer was removed with the torch.
Here's a shot of what some have called the inner layer. It's actually the front fender support.
Here's a shot of the backside of that piece. Circled in yellow. Photo is the Metal Surgeons created part.
Here's my poor use of Paint giving you an idea of what we're going to recreate to replace the rotten section I cut out back in July.
Super In Law top pieces he's been working on in the other room.
With the plan all set in our minds it was time to fit the cowl to the windshield frame. The frame had to be opened up earlier so I could get it to lay the flat. Here's a shot of the extension added back on.
After a couple hours of taking the frame in and out about 10 times. Her she is fitted nice and tight.
Then it was time to add the flange back on the cowl so it can be welded to the tub. It will be created in 2 pieces, the vertical and then the horizontal. This will take a little tinkering. This piece sets depth and the angle on the cowl.
Measurements down from the pressed out top roll on the cowl down to the plate.
The work begins .............
Fell asleep last night while writing this and watching the Blazer game
When time allows I'll try do a line drawing on how I'm putting this thing back together.
There are hardly any detailed threads on how the cowl is put together. This is great info.
Today seemed like it was slow going. I think I reset the cowl 50 times before I tacked the first horizontal flange into place. The location of the flange sets the up and down orientation of the cowl.
I also peeled back the fender a bit to give me a little more room to weld in the new inner fender support. This also gives you a better look at the two layers.
Tomorrow I'll shoot some shots of how and where I'm measuring.
Both front corners of the cowl were patched by Super In Law due to someone forgetting to latch the hood before they drove down the road.
I started the day with adding back the end of the cowl that was ate by the tin worm and finish welding in the vertical flange.
While I'm working on the cowl repairs Super In Law is getting after the bumps and bruises in the frunk floor pan.
Two rails, some all thread and some steel blocks to pull the bumps down.
Before I attempt to weld in the cowl flange on the right I go ahead and set/hold the correct depth on the left with a self tapping screw.
Having that done that I went ahead and got to right side all set and tacked on the flange.
As I begin the vertical repairs on the cowl to hood channel I determine that I might need some more 20ga so I make a run to the Industrial Supply store here in Forest Grove and raid the scrap pile. Which is all you need for most of our repairs.
On to the vertical portion of the what I'll call the cowl to hood channel. The big one at the top of the hood. Back to the workbench. I'll start with the right side.
Slow going. Blip. Blip. Blip. Good solid steel all way across.
Tool Whore moment : Roloc Discs. I've progressed from Hf/Chinese to Norton and finally to 3m Cubitron II. This was done with 80gr on a Snap On 2 speed prep tool.
Run at the low 6k speed as to not cut to fast. Bought both of mine on Ebay $50 and $70. The Cubritron cut the cleanest and the edge lasts the longest. Amazon. Last box of 50, $38 on sale.
Both Eastwood and TP Tools are making their own version now.
The line on the bottom is my sanding line. I'll grind/sand up to that line for a starting point for the next right angle channel portion. 20mm down from the top.
On to the left side.
As you can see I ran into some bumpy stuff. I had about an inch of less that stellar steel. This is where Super In Law gets really frustrated. If you blow up a stitch. STOP.
Cool yourself and the steel down. Then go back and try and put super small blips on the edge of the hole. Circle the hole. Then fill in the top, from the bottom up if you can. Hard to do. But it looks better after you sand/grind it down.
End of the day .............
Typical work day at MiddleMotors is 10am till 5pm with an hour lunch away from the shop. I have to keep Super In Law fed and filled up. LOL. So we have a 6 hour work day. With me usually tinkering with shop stuff for an hour, so most work days are 5 hours. But until we get both Doug and Taylor's cars done, it will be 6 days per week. 3 at Rothsport and 3 at MiddleMotors.
I hoping I can go play hooky from Rothsport another week. Gamroth will be heading to SEMA. He'll be in/on the 400R display.
Rothsport 4.0 with over 400+ reliable long term horse power.
Some day we'll build both a 1977 and a 2056 Rothsport MOTEC 914 Type 4.
Wont be cheap if we use this as a starting point.
Thank you for all your welding and tool whore tips! They help me immensely.
When I blow through a patch of substandard steel, I'm finding I have better luck circling the hole with blips as you describe, then grinding the circle down a bit before filling it in. I think it just compensates for my lack of skill striking an arc at the bottom of the hole, but I'll take it.
Piddle day for me, as you don't get much done with 5 month old twins in the house.
I finally assembled my speakers today.
Since I'm using a vintage Becker stereo, it doesn't have much power.
So I picked up a set of efficient Alpine 5.25" speakers to go into the 914 Rubber speaker housings I have.
These are Alpine SPS-510 speakers.
Not exactly "high fidelity" to the max, but should be sufficient for the few times I want to listen to some cruising tunes.
I found the speaker grills on the internet and the 5.25" to 6.5" adapter rings on Ebay.
I ended up using JB Weld for plastic (2 part epoxy) to glue the adapter ring into the backside of the speaker enclosure.
Then just mounted the speaker and grill in from the front side using the holes that were predrilled in the adapter ring.
The majority of the time, I'll be listening to the 2.7 MFI RS engine winding out to seven grand plus I'll bet.
2nd micro job I got accomplished today was the installation of my torsion bars in the front suspension members.
These are Sway-A-Way hollow 21mm bars and they had been backordered through Elephant Racing for about 3 months time.
Finally arrived at my home today.
Since I'm still using the 914-4 front suspension, the spline count are different than what a 911 comes with....perhaps 914-6?
The A-arms had been stripped and powdered coated.
The adjuster caps had been given a black oxide coating.
The bars slid in nicely; on went the foam sealing ring, and adjuster.
Now all I need is a freshly painted car in which to install them.
While I was getting dirty under Mike's car. Super In Law was busy creating the channel for the cowl to hood area.
Taking off from Rothsport till 11/7 to get Doug's car finished. Jeff been good about it. He has Doug's engine and transmission projects going.
Plus rally car number 3 is at the body shop getting a new roof. And the Desert Flyer is on my lift getting a few engineering enhancements.
On we go to the cowl to hood channel recreations. 20ga and 20mm down from the flat cowl surface. A couple tacks to put it in the right place.
Part flipped over and the excess vertical portion sanded down to match the channel.
Weld penetrations from the back/bottom to the inside of the channel.
I use a thin cutting wheel to delicatley knock down the weld. Then a couple differnet RoLoc disks to finish.
So in she went for a test fit. That was enough frustration for today.
Prior to the test fit I did blow thru a couple three times while sanding/grinding the left side vertical portion that will be filled with the foam seal. Can't leave well enough alone. Now that my patience has been recharged it will get inspected for over sanding pin holes prior to giving the backside a re-treatment on cold galvanizing.
Back to checking things off the list.
Filled some screw holes in the engine compartment and on the fire wall.
I'm beginning to use a paint stripper wheel for removing the epoxy. Works pretty good.
The spot weld cutter work on the MPS mount.
After all the discussion about Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Here she is in action. Man that stuff is thin. The push button, tube and nozzle work really well.
It will get a once over with the camera to make sure I have the coverage that I what.
I missed a couple shots of the left end all trimmed up.
Super In Law went to work on the patterns and test pieces for the fender tops after we went thru The Plan ......................
I went to work on inventorying all the harness cable straps. I used my 69 build and a couple 73's to compare too.
I started with the stack Super In Law created a couple years ago.............
22 gauge 10 * 40 mm.
Quite a few missing
Something to ponder today. Where are we going to locate the "75" style fuel pump door?
Matt's and the OEM location are on the right side. two port pumps. But your's will have the third return line that will need to be dressed back to the tank.
Not sure if this helps?
Added Doug's requested 4 extra harness hold down straps under the rear engine tray.
Then went thru the entire car and stripped the epoxy primer off all of the ground lugs.
Covered the plate with an oversize washer and secured with a nut. This will keep the body shop from coating them with beautiful light ivory.
Then on to welding the flanges on the cowl.
Cary - OMG... I can only imagine how many MIG trigger pulls you have into that car!
Hours and hours of "bzzzzttt..., bzzzzttt..., bzzzzttt...".
(Take plenty of breaks so you don't get Car/Pull tunnel syndrome! )
Great work and attention to detail. The car is looking awesome!
Oh, and Happy belated B-day!
I can just begin to see the finish line on my portion of the project .....
Finish the cowl and seam sealing are the two major items left.
Doug and I will inspect the old seam seal today that hasn't been removed to determine if any needs to pulled and redone.
Installed the shorter BelMetric rubber isolators on Doug's 3 port fuel pump mounted into a 75+ fuel fuel door. Much better ...............
Then Doug stopped by bearing gifts ...............
Item number 1. Rear fog light. It has some issues that I'll discuss on the other thread.
From 25,000 ft. Light hardware to long and big. New brackets are miss matched.
Item number 2. PMS rear toe alignment adjuster.
Got to use some of my shiny stuff for the mock up for welding.
I have the MFI fuel filer console sitting on my desk as we determine it's location. I'll stopped by Rothsport and discuss with Jeff on Monday.
Always thought that is a fuel accumulator with a filter? Am I wrong?
That is called the MFI micro filter (the filter screws on the bottom) for the MFI fuel system. On top is the cold start valve/solenoid for the cold start system.
You'll usually see these on the early 911's just next to the engine relay panel on the driver's side in the engine compartment.
As far as I know....there is no accumulating going on there.
Just the micro filter before the fuel heads off to the MFI pump and high pressure injectors and cold start bits up on top.
Oh....yes this is MFI not CIS.
What a beautiful and simplistic system MFI is.
Oh yes, nice build as well.
Short day. Oil change on Powerstroke and mow the lawn before it rains.
Time to tackle the issues with the rear fog light. Stopped at Ace and bought a shorter 1.0 10mm jam nut and a 10mm washer.
Put the new 10mm washer on the inside of the fog light to shorten the mount.
It was too long and mount was pivoting on the tube.
Washer needed to be enlarged just a bit.
Mounted onto the mounting tube ..........
Jam nut was a little too thick too ..............
Now the lamp was mountable.
Here's the low mounting location. Mount sitting on the rail.
Here's the one I'm going with so far ......................
Here's the next issue. The plate is too short to be mounted like the factory did it.
This is the plate that goes on inside the trunk. I just wanted to show where it lines up.
Here's my measurement from the taillight.
While I was tuning up the rear fog light. I was letting the aircraft stripper eat the epoxy
off the frunk VIN number plate.
I like this position best too....
Tomorrow I'll lay the GT lid on top to make sure the up and down is dead on.
Then I'll dial in the left to right. Needs a little more right. I'll move it to 2" and see what we have. I tried it once and didn't like it.
Put the left tail light in.
I think that will give you a better feel where the fog light should be mounted.
Started the day finishing up the rear fog light install.
Decided to go with 1.75" from the taillight.
1st issue, still a little too tight to the back panel. Need a washer thats just a smidgen thicker.
Make sure the nut is horizontal to the top.
2nd. issue, need to change the location of the wiring harness grommet hole. Closer to horizontal with the bolt holes.
3rd issue, backing plate is too short to mount like the factory did.
Here she is ....................
Then welded in the Patrick Motorsports rear toe adjusters.
The bolt is there to protect the threads from weld splatter ............
Ready to roll .................
Let the fun begin. I started fitting Super In Law's left cowl patch. Trimmed it to fit in the hole. You can see that I'll be reusing the original fender tip when the time comes.
Cowl is a bit high which makes the gap look too big. I'm creating the gap with a tester and a new 914 Rubber cowl seal.
While I'm tuning the left side. Super In Law is working on the right side.
Perry Kiehl's nice custom engine wiring harness that he's put together for my 2.7 RS MFI engine/914-6 engine relay board/914-4 chassis wiring project.
He does a great job with lots of good and useful communication.
Was infinitely more user friendly than trying to get a custom harness put together from over in Europe.
Short Day . Chris (Tygaboy) stopped by after lunch. Tidied up his shop and brought Super In Law some parts to break down to put into storage. LOL.
Time for a trip to Home Depot for some more totes.
Back to the cowl patches.
Tuned the fender skin so that the seal fits just right.
Then on to trimming the lower fender support.
Didn't get the final shots .................Chris and I headed to the Grand Lodge for a bite to eat.
Super In Law waited for Mike to drop by with some parts.
Tomorrow am I'll get the same done on the right. Then I'll start the weld in.
Started the day with checking on how the inner support spoons into the fender skin.
Then I flipped the car over and cleaned the excess seam sealer out from under the patch area. Need to prepare it for the seam sealer thats coming next.
Finished tuning up the left inner fender support. Got a fit that I'm satisfied with until we weld in the cowl.
Then I turned the car around and started on the right side. Super In Law had prepped me a nice piece.
Tacked it together with my new Millermatic 141.
Then it was time for the tedious part. Trimming, shrinking, stretching and hammering the patch to drop into the cut out.
Took a while but I've got it close. I'll need to cut a couple welds and make a couple adjustments in the S curve.
Then it was time to finish the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating on the tunnel. Being upside I'll be able to coat the tunnel top.
After the clean up with brake cleaner .................
A bit of show and tell.
Parts, tools, etc.
Below you'll see some of the common plastic plugs found in the rear trunk of the 914.
On left are the original ones that have come out of the car after 46 years of dirt, oil, undercoating...you name it.
Your typical yellowing that this type of light colored plastic picks up from aging.
In the middle, is a set of these original plugs that have been left in dilute bleach for a couple of weeks.
Cleaned up nicely from the original, but still a bit dingy for my tastes.
Last column are a new set of 19mm plugs I purchased from Aase Sales. About a buck each.
I know which ones will be going back in my car after all the body/paint work.
Next is an NOS radio wiring harness I found.
Just the ticket for wiring up my vintage Becker stereo when the time comes.
I already located the special speaker connectors needed for the radio.
Founds these small specialty brass brushes on Ebay.
Some sizes are very useful for cleaning out the terminals in the socket where the round relays go.
Guess this next guy is called a 964RS (993RS) hood prop rod.
Porsche part numbers and not all that expensive.
I'll be using at least one for my rear fiberglass GT bonnet.
I'm up in the air for the front trunk lid.
May use the same as here....or get a more proper GT hood prop put together.
Purchased a nice shift rod bushing that gets attached at the firewire.
Necessary for the side shift conversion the car will be getting.
Not sure if I'll sheet metal screw it in (screws provided) or simply rivet it in place.
Last but not least....for my other P car, so really OT here I would think.
I have a 1973 911 that over the years has been converted into an RSR hot rod.
The ducktail I have came from GT Racing has never fit well, but I've lived with it for over 25 years.
I've asked Santa for Christmas a very special replacement ducktail with an aluminum base that will fit much better.
Instead of reinstalling a new set of Carrera RS decals on the tail, I'll be going with this metal emblem instead.
A few of the original cars had these instead of the decal.
Think it gives a much different look to the car.
Alternative idea for the prop?
I've never seen this method of hood prop before but it seemed to work well on this GT ('71 car #0137)
Not the best picture but if you zoom in to the hinge you should be able to see a knurled pin that goes through the hinge and into I think the kidney shaped bracket. Pins on both sides & wind can't catch the lid
Car is looking great BTW & your going to love MFI although if she ever refuses to start or is hard to start dont overlook the removeable fuel output spigot on the MFI cold start assembly. It has a very small check valve and after so many years of service mine gave up the ghost after a winter lay up. Insufficient pressure to start the car / fuel just circulates back to the tank. Had me and the AA guy totally foxed. Swapped in a shop and the 911 now starts on the button every time whereas before it took some cranking
I could be mistaken but those small brass brushes look to have come straight out of a gun cleaning kit. They are great brushes.
I love the shiny stuff. Plated hinges ............
Saturday is DIY help/coaching day ................ while I'm on that.
Super In Law was creating the last couple pieces of the cowl repair...................
The fender channels.
Both cowl upper corners will get just a little tune up and some file work before it get welded in.
Chassis portion of the cowl repair prepped with cold galvanizing and weld thru primer.
Then tuned up the window frame portion on the donor cowl. Super In Law cut out a buck pocket so I could make sure I had the correct shape.
On last quadruple check ..............
That dog will hunt ..... Gamroth cliche
Super In law cut off the back end of a front hood for a jig ............
Cowl clamped down with 24 Vise Grips and C-clamps. The welding has started, but forgot to shoot and pictures.
That last series of pics just earned you a new nickname. From here on, I dub thee:
I hoped to use the pinch type spot welder. I borrowed it from Rothsport.
Pinchers wouldn't fit. We bought the 220v unit for engine tin reworking.
When I (MiddleMotors) can afford one it will be the Miller unit that has multiple sizes of pinchers available.
So every rosette has a clamp next to it. The new Miller 141 will make nice small and short rosettes.
As for Clamp It, I'm going to order 6 more pairs of Vice Grips. 4 more 6SP's and 2 pair of 9LN's.
Welding the donor cowl to the windshield frame.
I did take up Chris's suggestion on using conditioning disks.
I little softer cut when dealing with that sharp edge on the frame. Worked great.
Thanks Chris ..........
Getting down to business. Welding the donor cowl onto the dash flange.
Down to the last 2 rosettes ..................
Jed Clampets pile of Vice Grips and c clamps.
The rosettes will get a tune up first thing in the am ..............
Cary - Super tidy! That looks REEEEEALLY nice!
Gotta say, seeing these sorts of repairs being done helps build my confidence for some of the same sort of work I have yet to do on my car.
Thanks for taking time to document everything you're doing. Greatly appreciated.
Cary and Super in Law are the best and irreplaceable.
Really nice work and documentation. That's the way these builds need to be documented if you ever need/want to prove the level of work done correctly on these cars. Good clear photos of all of the steps, showing the details enhances value significantly, IMHO, of course.
Deary day here in PDX ,,,,,,,,,,,, 45 degrees, gray sky and raining.
I start with tuning up the cowl to dash welds. Both front and back.
Then on to the home stretch.
I tack the cowl to the chassis a couple more times. Simple tacks. Should be easy to find way out in the future when the car gets refreshed.
The flange to flange was seam sealed. Even though the entire area will get a serious job of both tube and spray seam sealer. It would be tough to get at the flange to flange.
Then on to trimming and fitting the inner fender.
The inner layer on the backside of the fender tip (left) was removed up to the door skin fold over.
(photo to follow)
Location of the 3 rosettes I'll do after everything is finished.
This will weld the inner to the fender skin patch. 3/16 holes.
Inner support welded in.
I could have used a 1" Roloc. Not a lot of room to sand down the stitches.
Looks like the skin will need a little work on the shrinker/stretcher. I need it to move about 2.5mm to the left. Even then it might need to be redone, might not be wide enough. Its not as wide as the photo shows. Its standing above the seam. Needs a little more shaping now that the 2 pieces are tight together. This is one of the most important welds on the project. Because its out on the skin. It hate Bondo. My goal it to keep it to an absolute minimum. The metal finishing will be done by the body/paint shop. I consider myself Phase 1 of the project.
Did a test fit with car in the shop that has heat (wood). That's where I'll do the seam sealing.
The Mad Scientists here at MiddleMotors can MacGyver just about anything. But it takes patient dismantling and re-engineering. And just because you can, doesn't mean you should. This fender cowl repair might be one of those. Would have been a lot easier with a NOS cowl windshield frame and 2 new NOS fenders. Not cheaper, but easier. LOL.
And then you'd have all those spot welds to remove, straighten and repair.
2 or 3 of the parts cars that have gone thru here have had front fender replacements.
Removed and re-installed
Mad Scientist at Work ...
But as we dig deeper we'll just need more tools ,,,,,,,,,,
48" 16 gauge foot shear, English wheel, 16 gauge slip roller, planishing hammer and more bead roller dies .....................
Back to Work ..............
The mad scientists are back ..................
Right side inner/under fender is finished up and welded in.
Every piece prepped for the long run .
Welded on the fender tips in preparation for the final piece, the skin.
Tacked to the bottom side for the final trimming and fitting of the fender.
Then on to the fender channel before the skin is welded in.
Parting shot for the end of the day ...................
There are times when I think I'm being to picky and I'm doing a little too much Rembrandting, as Gamroth puts it. Until you can see and touch a project like this.
Steve's car was delivered to Rothsport on Monday for assembly.
It's been at Freddie's shop for 3 years ..................
First order of the day was to harvest a MPS backing plate off one of my long motor mount sections. Pulled off two, I didn't like the backside of the first one. Worst part is, I'm almost certain I have two, somewhere.
Into the blaster it goes. Garnet media.
But I find this on the backside. Looks like a little too much outdoor living.
That dog will hunt .............. It's going back on. With Georges help we find out that the factory used the same mount for the MFI Micro filter.
Onto the left fender skin install. This shows where the welds will be. The arrows are the fender to the cowl. The upper hash marks are the inner support to the fender.
Once again long term preservation protection.
First welding is the channel corner replacement.
Tying the channel corner together.
Wasn't in a picture taking mood while I was welding this in. a couple hours of tacking and straight edge work to make it come out flat. I'm reasonably happy with it. The tip end isn't quite finished. Needs to be flipped over and welded on the back side first.
While I'm welding in the left. Super In Law was finalizing the right skin.
Pretty close. Needs to be slid to the front a bit. ................
Always a pleasure watching the Dynamic Duo!
You're knocking it out, Mr. Cutter. Keep up the great work.
It's a bugger trying to get both of those edges perfect and do a butt weld too.
In regards to weather sealing. That is one crappy design. Hopefully the new seam sealers will do a better job of standing the test of time.
After 40 years, unless they were stored in a time capsule most cars have rust in the same area. The primary issue is to stop feeding the worm. Pretty tough place to work unless its on a rotisserie.
I'm switching hats .............
Pitch man for 914 Rubber. PUT 914 RUBBER FENDER LINERS ON YOUR CAR.
Snuck away from Rothsport after lunch and headed to Forest Grove.
Finished up the under side of the left fender.
Left cold galvanized and piping fitted.
Here's the tools I use for hand leveling the free hand butt weld.
These are some of my favorite tools ..........
Here's Super In Laws prep of the right side patch piece.
Prepped for the duration.
Turn up the stereo and away we go ...............
Stand the rotisserie vertical and weld in the channel.
Flip it upside down and finish the bottom.
I'll add a finished shot next week
Came out last night to get the cowl finished and I expect a full house this long holiday weekend.
MiddleMotors. You can trust these guys. No matter the situation, they're on the level.
(EDIT: Cary, dang it! You're posting too fast! This was supposed to show up right after #432. You're killing my comedic flow...)
The repairs are looking great. You all have a great holiday!
Installing the MFI fuel filter mount.
Didn't quite go as planned. George sent us a few shots from his 916. The shots made it look like it mounted to the MPS bracket. Not to be. Too short and the wrong angle.
Not going to work .................
So I sent Super In Law off to create/design a new MiddleMotors MFI filter bracket.
Back to the project list.
Drilled the holes to give the 71 a little 73+ upgrade. Air deflectors.
Mark stopped by with another new product install to work thru and record the installation instructions. I hope to get the first pair of the new air deflectors to test my holes with the new product.
Next onto the 75+ fuel pump relocation.
Pump comes out without any issues. Mounted with Metric nutserts.
1st Version of Super In Laws MFI fuel filter mounting plate.
With factory mount.
Didn't quite get the angles right. We'll get back to it on Friday. I've got a couple new ideas.
Back to the drawing board. Shorter and stiffer (16ga.) Version 2.
Still needs to be finished up. But gives you a good idea of where we're going. Not as high up as the factory 916. But I feel it will work well.
It will be stitched on the left. Three rosettes on the right.
Mad Scientists at work.
Woke up thinking is it tall enough to change the filter without taking it off ?
Is it far enough away from the long for your hands to get around ?
Inch to inch and 1/2 taller.
Spin the mounting platform around towards the intake stacks.
Guess so with the flange nuts. Looks like we're ditching the small factory angle bracket?
Looks like the 901 gearbox is already been completed.
Gordon Ledbetter is the wizard in anything Porsche transmission related.
Don't have all the details yet, but this is the executive summary on the build.
904 mainshaft with a collection of short gearing to make the car accelerate
Guard 930 LSD
Side shift conversion
All new bearings and seals
I had previously sourced the 911 axle flanges that will mate up with the 911 CV's on the axles I did.
Also with the help of 914World put together a 914-6 accelerator bell crank assembly.
Luckily the early 901's have a hole already tapped for the bell crank shaft hidden beneath a plug.
Quick pictures sent from my phone, un-resized.
Top one ............... stiffener added to the MFI filter bracket.
Middle ........... rubber seal for rear fog light wires.
Lower ................ created a new longer back bracket for the rear fog light. Doug can have it plated later.
Other side projects I've been working on.
#1 - Second set of wheels and tires for auto crossing and the occasional track day or touring event.
Scavenged up four 15x6 Fuchs in decent shape from varying years and sent these out to:
Turnaround was exceptional in only taking about 2 weeks to complete the work.
I opted for an RSR finish.
Again this wasn't a concours job, so could do my own thing.
They look very nice.
My only small complaint would be that the black paint needs a bit more gloss to it such that you get more of a satin finish.
These are leaning more towards a flat black.
Again, for my needs, they will do just fine.
These wheels will likely get a set of Toyo Proxes RA1 205/50ZR15's on them.
Tire Rack has these for about $170 ea.
I've read they are plenty sticky and give good service life.
#2 - Putting together a pseudo 914-6 tool kit.
I've located some of the items, some authentic, some reproduction (screwdrivers).
I'll need the tool kit pouch, set of open end wrenches, lug nut wrench, pulley wrench, and a couple other misc items.
But in the end, I'll have a serviceable tool kit that looks like it belongs in the boot.
Spent the remainder of the day with the hammers and dollies straightening out all the dents and creases that were uncovered after it was stripped.
Tomorrow is the big day for my portion of the project. We're going to test fit the fiberglass hoods.
With my fibreglass lids I've found that the front and rear bulkhead seals make the lids bend. I'm not using the front bulkhead seal and I've had to trim the rear one in height. Do check the fit with the seals inplace before you go to paint.
Cary and I had a good day going over the car to see if there were any last little items to take care of.
Not many to mention.
We spent some time mounting up the fiberglass front and rear bonnets.
The fit on the rear was "ok" with one corner needing some tuning for sure.
The front lid looked pretty good on most counts.
Again, these lids are paper thin and light as a hummingbird.
The filler, primer and paint will be kept to the bare minimums.
Nothing on the bottom sides except possibly a single clear coat to keep the raw fiberglass happy.
So next will be to get the chassis back to the blaster/primer guy (Leonard Soda Blasting here locally in Portland) to get all of Cary's raw metal work blasted and re epoxy primed.
After that we'll (or Cary) will spend a couple of days in the blaster's heated shop seam sealing the entire chassis.
Then it will be off to the paint shop for body work and a few coats of L80E followed by wet sanding and polishing.
A major hurdle, the metal work, is finally complete.
Thanks to Cary and Super-in-Law for all their great work on my car.
Guess I'll be Middlemotor's 1st major "rustoration".
Not sure if I ever showed the seats that are going into this car?
These were put together by Stefan with GTS Classics.
I can't recommend him enough for the customer service, product quality and ease to work with.
I picked their Watkins Glen model as it most resembled the factory seat in silhouette or profile so they'll fit into the back pad seamlessly.
I opted for the raw fiberglass finish on the back (vs the standard black paint) to coordinate with the undersides of the bonnets and the engine cooling shroud.
The only other option I checked was the manual lumbar support with supplied pump bulb.
Definitely a "sport" seat with nice bolstering.
The tartan plaid is my own choosing.
It's called Robertson Modern Hunting tartan.
I thought the white stripe would compliment the light ivory body color.
I'm also running the dark green and blue through the car in various places....seatbelts, Porsche stripes on the side, carpeting accents, etc.
The seats are quite comfortable.
Some better views of the raw fiberglass seat shells.
And the fully restored seat base, hardware.
The mounting flanges on the bottom of the seat bases took quite a bit of filing and sanding to get the seat sliders to sit flat and at the correct distance apart such that they would move forward and backward freely.
Something you never plan for when you initially make a purchase like this.
All these aftermarket fabricated pieces definitely require a certain amount of "fine tuning" as Cary would say.
As Doug commented, the project is winding down. Yesterday I pulled out all the detached sheet metal for inspection. Looks like my Miller 141 will get a little work.
Doug you would have loved the two hammer and dolly work on the front trunk, almost comical. Got a good start before I started working with Mike.
Eyebrows and lids are OK.
The engine lid has a little wowy in it.
Super In Law continues with the rebuilding/repair of the front valence.
Jig first, then we'll cut an oak buck for the hammer work.
So my early S calipers are finally done.
PMB Performance put the smack down on them with a very different finish.
First one on the block with a set like these.
Anodized black vs the typical clear or yellow.
Reminds me of a baby 930 caliper w/o the fins.
I'm very happy with how they turned out.
Should fit very well with my narrow car R Gruppe build direction that I'm going.
The only con is that I now have to send my freshly built 914-6GT calipers back to them to get a matching finish for the rear of the car.
Those do look cool.
Last couple items before sending her back to the paint booth for epoxy primer touch up.
Drilled holes for the Tangerine Racing firewall bushing.
Cruised around and tuned up the excessive gobs of seam sealer.
Now you see it, now you don't.
Doug has a new one ready to go after paint.
All but done with the tub. I'll do just a little more hammer and dolly work on the wrinkles that were bondoed under the paint.
Geppetto is still working on the buck for the front valence.
I think its back to the drawing board. He put the buck in the 20 ton press to try and pressure form the piece and the buck broke. We'll see what today brings.
On a side note, the front has more issues that I remember. The usual nicks and splits. But I found a dent above one of the support pieces.
Last hole to fix and the tub is done.
Into storage mode until I finalize the epoxy primer touch up at Leonard's.
Chassis looks a bit like a bat going to roost in a cave for the day....
Here's what's left. 2 rocker panels, engine lid and the rear valence.
Doug the rust spots came off the engine lid with the wire wheel. No holes underneath.
Started on left rocker panel. One major split, which caused quite a tweak in the panel.
Micro welding ...............
That's a crappy picture ...............
Stopped at the Leonards to get the ball rolling on the epoxy touch up ................
Greg was in Salem. I'll call or stop by in the am.
Doug, your project is looking great. The black anodized calipers look pretty cool.
Wasn’t sure about S calipers being done that way but I do like that. Very nice.
Thanks for compliment on my project. Sourced the 917 lite from a shop in Switzerland.
That's a lot of engine porn.
Moving day at MiddleMotors.
Next stop Leonard's Blasting in Sherwood for epoxy primer touch up.
Delivered at 1pm. Moving into Phase 2.
Epoxy primer touch up .....
I just made it up.
Picked up Doug's car at the blaster's after an epoxy primer touch up.
It's a thing of beauty ................
Loaded in the trailer and heading home for the night.
Pouring down rain ................
The chassis was delivered to the body & paint shop today.
Big job ahead as this was not the straightest of chassis's.
Cary did an admirable job with all the metal work.
Hopefully this will get moving pretty quickly now.
I'm expecting to have the car seam sealed and undercoated in the next couple of weeks, with the body work starting very quickly thereafter.
The color will be the factory original L80E light ivory with something a bit different underneath....possibly medium ivory or a beige.
The calm before the storm (body & paint) right now, so finished up another small back burner project I've been working on.
Wasn't interested in a strictly concours accurate tool kit, but one that was functional and looked like it belonged.
Began with a reproduction tool kit pouch that a shop makes in southern Oregon.
Nice basketweave and I opted for a dark navy interior.
The actual tools are a combination of real and reproduction.
The screwdrivers, P208 fan belt wrench and lug wrench are all reproductions (new).
The open wrenches are all Selected Special Steel made in W. Germany.
The pliers are a version of Hapewe, 22/19 box is a Stahlwille (as opposed to the uber expensive Chrom Vanadium), and a Klein spark plug wrench.
Of course a nice 914 tow hook.
Finished off with a new factory fan belt, a selection of fuses and Moto Meter tire gauge from Porsche Classic.
With correct, authentic 914-6 tool kits hitting nearly $2k, this seemed like a reasonable alternative.
Starting soon will be weekly updates from the body and paint shop as they grind through getting the chassis prepared for the L80E light ivory paint that is to come.
Big day/milestones on Monday (tomorrow).
1) The 2.7 MFI engine is on the dyno. Film at six.
2) I see the spray out for the paint color we've selected.
Something different than the factory light ivory....but not too much.
2.7 MFI engine all mounted up on Rothsport's engine dyno....ready to go.
Better view of the amber fan shroud and the milled-down turbo valve covers.
911 headers were used instead of Ben's 1-5/8" SS 914-6 heat exchangers as they fit on the dyno better.
Same diameter and approx length, so power outputs should be similar with Ben's HE's.
On the car, obviously Ben's HE's will be installed.
Using a Dansk single outlet sport exhaust.
Will try to compare power output with a Leistritz single outlet factory supplied muffler as well....later.
Specs on the engine.
Factory 2.7 MFI identical.
Mahle 2.7 8.5:1 pistons/cylinders, Webcam reground the cams to S/RS specs, T heads opened up to S/RS spec with
S sized intake/exhaust valves, Pertronix ignition, Clewett spark plug wires, Series 900 amber fan shroud,
Mark Motshagen refinished fan/fan housing, 4 rib oil pump, distributor recurved to RS spec, throttle bodies
rebuilt by Burnham Performance to S/RS spec, plastic intakes bored out to S/RS spec, Carrera pressure fed tensioners,
MFI pump rebuilt and modified to RS spec by MFIWerks, all engine plating done by Tru-6, new Stoddard's 914-6 high
efficiency oil cooler, PartsKlassic high output coil with matching solid state CDI box, etc. HA
Factory ratings are 210hp @ 6300rpm and 188 ft-lb torque @ 5100.
My engine came at about 218hp @ 6300 with a peak of nearly 225hp @ 6800.
And the torque was right on target as well.
Job well done I'd say.
The engine is a bit lean at the top of the RPM limit, so we will likely tweek a few things like the space cam inside the MFI pump to fatten up the fuel curve a bit.
Should get a bit more power....hoping to hit about 230hp with this low compression setup.
The engine at 8.5:1 can run on any quality of fuel.
It idles really nicely and starts up on a dime....not always the norm for MFI motors.
My space cam is "special" I am told.
The single outlet sport Dansk sounds perfect as well.
I'd say a nice upgrade from the factory stock 1.7 liter than came with this car.
With the gearbox sporting a set of "sporty" gear ratios....this buggy should really move out down the road.
Lovely motor. Nice numbers too.
I am really enjoying this build... well done
The bodywork has begun at Superior Auto Body in Gresham, OR.
Mainly an accident repair and offroad shop....the supervisor, Dale, has shown the knowledge and experience to get this job done.
There are a few hot rods in the shop, a newer 911, some muscle cars, lots of big offload capable trucks (many of which are pretty rad), etc.
Driver's side door a bit tight at the top.
That will be addressed.
The remainder of the gaps on the driver door look pretty good.
Unfortunately this was one of those 2 steps forward....1 step back kind of project.
The guy that did all the media blasting and epoxy priming, unfortunately didn't know what he was doing with all his epoxy primer.
It's all coming off the exterior of the car anyway.
We found rust already forming on the bare metal beneath the primer.
Plus some you could just scrap off with your thumbnail.
Big bummer, but at this point of the project, I won't be sacrificing the quality of the final paint job.
So all the epoxy primer on the exterior is getting removed.
In general, all the flat panels of the car are in relatively good condition and will only get a skim coat of plastic filler.
More of the body work taking place.
The pace of work is really moving along at a very nice rate.
Pretty soon we'll have the body color Raptor going on the underside of the car as well as getting all the seam sealing completed.
The gaps on the passenger door all look very good.
Won't take much work on this side to get it the way we want it.
Instead of the factory light ivory L80E color, we're going to go with a more modern Porsche 911 color called "Biarritzweiz". All I know is that "weiz" means white in German and Biarritz is a town in France. It is definitely in the same color family as light ivory, a close relative in fact, but will appear just a bit darker in person. Should be perfect for this hot rod 914.
Couple more links to the dyno.
1st one is just running at 2000-2500rpm and checking all the spark plugs. With the Pertronix ignition, a cylinder can be advanced or retarded a couple a degrees due to inaccuracies in the manufacturing of the rotor with the magnets. Such was the case with my engine. Three of cylinders were dead on, the other three were advanced/retarded a degree or two.
Likely not an issue, but we look at a couple more rotors to see if we can find a better one.
Next video is of the dyno run to 224.8 peak hp.
This is what Biarritz Weiz will look like....possibly.
You can see it...can't you?
Paint color seems to match the thread background color pretty well.
Congratulations! Coming along very nicely. The color is going to be nice.
Just picked up my new back pad straight from Germany and Porsche.
Our local dealer here in Portland, Sunset, gets very good prices on most of the factory parts.
Really looks nice and the vinyl is perfect in appearance.
I tried to repair my existing back pad, but in the end, it wasn't in that great of shape and my "sorry" attempt to resurrect it just wasn't cutting the mustard.
Two of the local hotshoes checking out the new cockpit digs.
I think they both give it thumbs up.
Cherish every minute .................
Seems like they're gone in a blink of an eye and all you do is think about how you'd do things differently .............
Changing direction on the color for the car.
Looks like the light ivory derivatives are out.....and a modern Porsche color may be in.
Thinking about a non-metallic M9A.
Which translates into chalk.
What are your thoughts?
Looks incredible on the newer cars.
Wonder about our 914 as well....
Love it.. Bummer on the primer.. Never seen that happen before..
Not sure what was wrong with the primer.
The body & paint shop thinks the metal was not very clean underneath it.
Hard to believe as supposedly the primer guy spent all this time hand scuffing the 1st primer that had been laid down months prior just to get a good tie-in. Could he have missed wiping it all down before shooting the primer?
Guess we'll never know.
All I do know is that next time, I'll let the body & paint shop take care of cleaning off the flash rust and they can epoxy prime the chassis themselves.
The 914 will belong to little sister when she gets older (if she's good).
Older brother will get the '73 911.
They better be good when they grow up or all bets are off. Ha
They will both get some experience behind the wheel of an early 70's Porsche. Not too many other kids will get to say the same.
Engine is complete now.
Final power figures are 228 horses at less than redline....so likely more is still available.
This is with the Dansk single outlet sport exhaust.
To me these are exceptional power numbers for an 8.5:1 stock Carrera RS engine.
Factory rated them at 210hp.
When using the factory stock Leistritz single outlet, peak hp was 221 and trailed the Dansk across the entire rpm band by at least 5hp.
I'll be using the sport exhaust I'm sure!
You'll see some good views of the amber fan shroud that Damon Series 900 fabs.
Also the restored fan and fan housing that Mark Motshagen so beautifully does.
Factory 914-6 engine tin with mods for the MFI pump belt.
Ben's beautiful 1-5/8" HE's.
1-5/8" size was the right call with this 2.7 MFI engine vs. factory 1-1/2" primaries.
The "special" Sachs sport clutch pack that according to the engine builder is super light but very robust.
Last to install are the heater hoses and the hot air hose that feeds heated air from the HE to the MFI pump thermostat.
I'm very happy with this part of the build.
But then....Rothsport never fails to get it right....down to the very small details.
Body/paint shop updates:
Superior Auto Body out of Gresham, OR has been hard at it for about 2 weeks now.
Starting to make some good progress.
To be honest, I did not start with the best of chassis's but decided to just "go for it" in the end.
Let's just say I've saved another 914 from the crusher.
Very few straight panels at all on this car.
So you'll see a "fair" degree of body filler....hahaha. For real.
This is all skim coat so there will be no thick sections of body filler anywhere.
Even the top of the targa panel had been walked on it appeared.
In general, the main part of the chassis was in pretty good shape.
The driver door needed to be opened up with their monster porta power to get the door gaps correct.
Like I said the top of the targa had to be addressed.
Big suction cups pulled most of the dents out with body filler making it perfect.
The biggest issue were the "so called" greatest GT hoods ever made known to man.
I'll keep the vendor anonymous at this point, but the hoods were grossly over lauded.
Fit was extremely poor, but that's typical of fiberglass.
What was really disappointing was the construction techniques were just simply abysmal.
The gel coat was not nicely applied to the mold as were the subsequent layers of fiberglass.
The actual shape of the hoods especially the rear one were very substandard.
The shop has done a lot of work to get them looking drastically better using Corvette panel materials.
There were voids or pores everywhere that needed attending to such that the later paint job wouldn't be adversely affected.
Next time I'll try Getty....that's all I'll say at this point.
Very, very expensive (~$2800) GT "replica" hoods that just weren't worth the money.
This shop will get them usable but at what cost?
Live and learn.
One of the many expensive lessons learned on this build.
Next week, the body/paint shop will start shooting primer everywhere.
Then comes the Raptor undercoating tinted the final paint color and seam sealing the entire chassis.
Got a look at the latest paint sample today....B9A.
Best to date.
It's a white with a bit of blue gray to it.
Called Carrara (correct spelling) White....found on the new Porsche models.
Things are definitely moving ahead.
Hopefully will have the car back from the body/paint shop in Mid March.
Then I'll do my thrashing on it.
Already am naming/describing that time as "helter skelter."
Rothsport could begin integration of the power train and completion of the car in May.
Still a chance we'll get this car to the WCR here in Oregon this summer.
Sorry for the low quality pics....they came from the paint shop.
It's masking time.
Guess the main takeaway is that the body work is moving on down the road, and it's time to get the primer on the car so we can do one last bit of block sanding.
Expecting some seam sealer to fly next week along with the body color Raptor undercoating.
Looking forward to the B9A getting applied to a very straight body in the very near future.
Looks great and my car will be similar with s skim coat..
Love the pictures of the engine.. It shows off the heat exchangers. Might need to use the pictures for my website..
Yes, a mirrored engine firewall might just be the ticket!
I'll try to get some better pics of Ben's 914-6 HE's here in the coming months.
Good work! Love the seats. ...looks like the passengers do too.
Got a look at the latest paint sample today....B9A
Cool ................. Good Choice. But then I'm a little biased. LOL.
Bodywork is pretty much completed.
Chassis and various parts are nice and straight and flat.
Primer put down.
Just need the guide coat and one final sanding, and we'll be ready for seam sealer, undercoat and spraying some color.
Pretty amazing how flat they got those horrid fiberglass hoods and how well they fit on the car now....install pics later.
Many hours went into filling and sanding, plus some heat to get the fiberglass to lay correctly.
The undersides will still be raw fiberglass with only the tops and edges painted body color.
I can see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel
The seam sealer is complete now.
Sorry the pics are few and far in between....and low quality.
The shop used a catalized 2 part SEM seam sealer.
Dried very hard so should be tough as nails hopefully.
Will be getting the Raptor undercoating shot on next this week.
Then comes the color.
So we're finally getting somewhere....
That looks really nice. I wonder what kind of gun they shot that with
Looking good Doug! Can't wait to see it with color on it. Exciting stuff
, looks good.
Underside of the car is complete now.
Took awhile to get the right color match of the Carrara Weisse on the Raptor tintable Urethane bedliner/undercoationg, but eventually we got there.
The last pic shows the texture that we achieved.
Not quite concours Wurth pebbly, but will be work fine with this hotrod.
Stuff should be bulletproof.
I was considering going with a different color on the bottom like beige or some light gray, but in the end the same color of what will be applied to the rest of the car "won the day."
Trunks and cabin have been painted Carrara Weisse as well.
It's a very nice and bright white....much more white than light ivory for sure.
Some of the method used to get this car down to the bare metal reared it's ugly head.
Impossible (as many have said before) to get all the media out of the car that was used to blast it down to bare metal.
When the spray painters start spraying, the leftover media comes out of every nook and cranny imaginable.
There is left over media imbedded in some of the paint in the interior.
The painters wanted to attack it with their DA's and repaint the cabin, but since it's all underneath sound/heat shield padding and carpeting, I said no to all that extra work.
In a way, it will be a remembrance of all the work that went into this chassis to get it ready for paint.
Dipping would have been worse I've heard, as the chemicals leach out of all the crevices and joints ruining your paint job for years to come.
The exterior still has it's final guide coat that they were sanding off as we speak.
Plan is to get the car off the rotisserie and back onto my cart, so that the nose and tail can some quick bodywork completed.
Then the remainder of the car will be painted.
The roof has been repaired and retextured and is ready for paint.
The side sill covers, front and rear valance are also ready to receive their "hotrod" black as well. The black is a very nice satin that has just the right amount of sheen.
One of the biggest challenges of the body work portion of the project was getting the high dollar GT replica front and rear hoods to fit the car and have reasonably the correct shape/curvature to match the car.
The shop worked their magic and did an excellent job.
The top portions of the hoods will be painted Carrara Weisse, the same color as the rest of the car.
The underneath will be raw fiberglass with the exception of a very narrow band around the perimeter.
You can see the primer already in place on the backside.
After the perimeter gets the body color applied, the entire backside will get a coat of clear satin to help protect it.
These GT hoods are very lightweight and thin.
How practical these are for everyday service remains to be seen.
If they just don't work out, I'll go with the stock steel lids and save these for a "future" project.
I thought the weight savings and "cool factor" were worth it to at least give it a go.
Terrific looking work. What a great day when they actually shoot color on your car.
Doors are painted now. Today the main chassis is in the paint booth for 4 coats of Carrara Weisse followed by clear. Should have some pics tomorrow. Didn't think this car would ever get to this stage. It's been nearly 3 years since I picked up this POS example. Thanks to Cary, Superior Auto Body and many others this car will be transformed into something special in the end. Stay tuned.
Can't wait to roll it into your garage ..........
Car is looking great Doug. Beautiful work.
Moving a long now Doug,looking good,the fiberglass well in what you said so many parts don't fit well,2 piece parts are usually more of an issue,if the outer exterior skin isn't mold cured for long enough before the inner section is bonded to it the outer skin will pull out of shape resulting in high/low spots and twisting.
Sign of the times but these parts are generally made by unskilled labour,being a qualified laminator is something I did for 15yrs.... there's just more to it than slapping on some gelcoat in a mold and glassing it.
Wow that engine must have been a great moment to get those final results,well done
The panels are all laser straight as the bodywork that was done by Superior Auto Body was simply exceptional.
I continually had to rein them in such that it wasn't too perfect.
Paintwork will be concours quality, but that's not what i have in mind for this car.
Just enjoying and driving.
Love looking at the reflection of the lights in the paint.
The current finish really is good enough for my needs....very little orange peal and waviness, but the shop owner wants it something he can be proud of, so next up is the "cut and buff" or wet sanding and polishing.
Will be mirror-like when they are done.
And they're giving me a projected completion of next week some time
The front and rear valances and side skirts have all been painted their "hotrod" black and the sheen looks perfect.
Not too shiny or flat....just right in my eye.
Still have the 2 hoods, engine lid and headlight doors to paint which will take place tomorrow.
The doors have already been completed.
Wasn't so sure about going with white at the beginning of this project.
The original color of the car was light ivory.
This Carrara Weisse is a very nice white and has a lot more "pop" than light ivory.
I had wanted tangerine, but too many recent cars on 914 World sport that color.
My other favorite is a 911 color, Albert blue, but somehow it just didn't look right on a 914 I thought.
So here we ended up with the 2018 Porsche color, Carrara Weisse.
We have an Albert blue car in the shop. Looks great but doesn’t “pop” like some colors.
That is a thing of true beauty! Congrats on hitting this milestone.
Can't wait to see it .................
Another view of the completely (exterior) wet sanded chassis.
That really makes the paint look flat.
What's left to do?
1) Finish painting, wet sanding and buffing the hoods.
2) Finish painting the headlight door sheet metal.
3) Install the doors and hoods on the car.
4) Paint black the small areas under the two side engine grills that are on the chassis.
Note: Instead of worrying about the black tape on the bottom of the rear window, I just had the shop paint the top edge of the inside firewall the same trim black we've been using.
Whoa! I couldn't figure out why it looked so green until I saw the pic with the truck next to it. Now that's a shine!
Difinently an honor to be involved in this project. Can't wait to roll it in your garage.
That chassis looks outstanding.
Paint shop status:
Shop owner went to the coast for the weekend, while the shop finishes up some last things with the project.
1) Painting the tops of both hoods, headlight doors and eyebrows. Then wetland and buff.
2) Install the doors and hoods; align.
I did bring home with me both side skirts and front/rear valances.
Also the roof and engine lid.
Went to work putting back together the engine lid.
1) Powder coated the spring rods.
2) Installed new rubber bumpers (914 Rubber) under the rods.
3) Powder coated the engine grill and added a year correct rally badge.
4) New reproduction engine bay gold foil stickers from Aase Sales.
5) Newly plated latch hardware.
6) New edge protectors, welting and lid protector/buffer from 914 Rubber.
Haven't installed the speed nuts for the grill yet, as I'm fine tuning the screen welting.
Pretty happy with how this all came together.
If the rest of the car looks this clean and new, I'll be a happy camper in a couple of months time.
Paint shop is finishing up this week.
Everything painted now.
Bolting on the doors and hoods today.
Test fitting the stainless steel bumpers.
Little bit of tweaking on the rear bumper is needed....you can see from the side profile where the bumper meets the rear.
Front looks good.
Guess you can tell by the holes in the panel between the taillights what is going on this car....
Couple of pics of the engine compartment showing the 914-6 conversion specific work done.
Factory oil tank holes and a factory style engine mount.
Everything above the engine sealing rubber is just paint, while everything below is Raptor undercoating tinted the same color as the paint. Seamless....
With any luck, the car will be back in my garage this weekend.
That is one beautiful paint job!
Jealous of your FG hoods.
That car is looking absolutely beautiful. I 100% agree re the back window modification with satin black paint. I will have to run that by the Justice League (Jim, Kent and Andy). I like it.
That is a nice looking teener! Where did you get the stickers?
Time to catch up a bit....
The paint shop delivered the car to me last Friday.
A glorious day for sure.
It's been almost 3 years since I purchased the car.
And nearly 2 years with the metal work and paint & body.
Ya need some patience in deed.
My twins just turned 1 year old on Friday, May 18th and my sister was in town for the festivities, so not much got done over the weekend.
Add to that one of the twins was sick just before their 1 year check up today.
It's been a little crazy here.
But I'm just about ready to get going with my part of the assembly of this car....
From here on out...it will be a bit of a shotgun approach to getting this car back in one piece.
I have to work in some assembly in between the twin's nap time and all the chores I do daily in connection with the twins.
My goal is the get the entire car assembled in 1 month.
Wish me luck.
Then the car will get hauled over to Rothsport Racing's shop for installation of the drivetrain....2.7 MFI engine (228hp) and close ratio gearbox, plus added oil cooler, wheel alignment, completion of the brake system, etc.
Dial it in!
Now is the time when all the effort in re-plating many of the items really makes it's mark.
For example, the beautiful clear plated door latches.
And freshly plated/powder coated front strut hardware.
The beauty of the high priced fiberglass hoods becomes more evident in situ.
They are light as heck, but will need some nifty prop rods to keep them afloat.
i definitely have some ideas for this.
All the rubber seals for the most part will be predominantly 914 Rubber provided.
In general, I can say that most of the 914 Rubber items look great and fit great as well.
Just a peak at the carpets that will go in the car.
German square weave charcoal carpets from Autobahns Interiors.
Gorgeous and will really set off the interior against the stark white paint....
The back end of the car really makes quite a statement.
I'm going "Euro" 914 hence the badging, lighting, etc.
Painted the gold 914-6 VW Porsche badge black so it would show up better against the white.
Hella Euro tail light lens with Spokes LED right behind them....plus 914 Rubber gaskets.
Euro rear fog light of course.....
The bumper is stainless steel from Harrington.
Re-using the "original" bumper tops as they were in great shape....likely not really original considering the overall shape of the car as I received it, but someone had replaced them in the past.
Topped off with a Brumos license plate frame a friend of mine had given me many years ago...finally the right car to put in on.
I'm using a trunk mat from Coco Mats that is black with blue specs.
It's really heavy....but pretty cool looking.
Not sure if I'll get matching floor mats for the cabin or not....
More on that later.
Rear trunk is complete except the wiring....which is coming when my "assistant" becomes available.
Along with the prop rod.
A word on the rear trunk lid.
It fits basically.
Not great, but it gets the job done.
Considered putting hood latches in the lower corners, but not sure if that fits with the build philosophy for this car.
If this was a 914-6 GT replica....then no question I'd go with them.
It won't be concours the fit maybe the finish.
But the cool factor when you open the lids will more than make up for any cosmetic blemishes/imperfections.
Trial fitting the brake proportioning valve and 914-6 front engine mount.
Will get better pics later.
These components look really nice.
I'll try to have daily updates now as I work my way through the parts installation phase of this project.
And away he goes ................
I'll try and make it to the body shop on Friday to pick up my rotisserie.
I grabbed Super In Law and we ran across town to pick up my rotisserie at Doug's body shop. Superior Auto Body. When I got there two guys jumped in and helped me load it up. Nice folks. Then it was off to Doug's house to see the completed paint job.
All I can say is, pictures don't do it justice.
To see my metal work finished at that level ............ I'm at a loss for words.
Well it's time to update this thread....hard to believe it's been over a month since I last posted. Two 13 month old twins will do that to you I guess....
Let's get going...
Some of the new supplies/tools I needed for the job at hand.
3M high strength 90 contact adhesive - perfect for doing the targa/sail vinyl.
The other adhesives just weren't up to the task in my opinion.
Large high quality scissors; think these were German that I purchased on Ebay..
They'll cut through just about anything with a very nice slice....carpeting, vinyl, rubber trim and moulding, Dynomat, fuel lines. Almost anything.
Roller for smoothing out the Dynomat, carpeting and vinyl.
Spring clamp pliers. A necessity when removing or attaching those spring clamps on the fresh air blower box and distribution boxes. After I launched one to the moon using standard pliers and nearly put another through the side of my face, I decided it was a smart move to get the correct tool for the job. Note: I did find the one clamp one week later on the other side of the garage.
4 and 5mm hex head sockets for the rear brake calipers.
3M trim adhesive for the trim that needed a bit of help to stick here and there.
Can of flat tan colored paint for painting the paper/foil heating tubes in the back of the dash to match the original factory color.
Best safety purchase of the project.
Found these jack stands on Ebay.
They are very sturdy, easy to use, with a nice rubber pad (so you don't muck up the bottom of your car).
Not cheap....something like $60-70 ea, but to me, well worth the money for peace of mind.
Each stand is capable of holding something ridiculous like 6000 lbs....so total overkill in a good way.
Front suspension completed.
Struts are RSR units from Elephant Racing with the raised spindles.
Inserts are heavy duty Bilstein.
Won't make use of the coil over capability at this time.
We've got 19mm Sway-A-Way torsion bars in the front for now.
Aluminum S calipers rebuilt with "custom" black anodizing.
Only one on the block with a set of these I think.
Behind you can see the rest of the front sway bar assembly along with the additional stiffening plate for where the sway bar attaches to the body.
One note on the front control arms.
My initial installation of the rubber bushings was not good enough as I had trouble getting them all the way on....didn't get them 100% seated.
This meant the control arms would not go on the car and necessitated me removing them and reinstalling a new set of bushings.
This time I used 914 Rubber's method of using the threaded rod down the middle vs some kind of Frankenstein pipe clamp that I had used before.
Bushings went on all the way this time.
It is very important to get them started straight and then there really aren't too many issues getting the bushings fully seated.
On the rear, we have our 914-6 GT brake setup.
Combined effort from 914 Rubber and PMB.
Wasn't sure I was going to get the backing plate in there....but in the end, the correct combination of the right thickness washers did the trick.
Vented brakes for the rear with PMB's black plating to match the front calipers.
Behind, you can almost see the Bilstein struts/springs from Elephant Racing.
I'll get better pics of those in the next day or two.
A job I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy....reinstalling the vapor recovery lines.
Found the correct size rubber grommets on Ebay.
The existing lines were in good shape, just needed some cleaning up.
New fuel hoses for the junctions.
Pulled them both from the engine bay.
Nearly took the hide off both hands, but somehow got them in.
Royal PITA job for sure.
Copious amounts of silicon spray lube was used in this job.
View of the passenger side rocker panel installed.
I went with screws on the top instead of rivets so they could be easily removed in the near future.
Installation of 914 Rubber's vinyl targa/sail panel kit.
Along with all new factory trim.
Still waiting for the long piece that goes along the backside from my plater guy.
This job definitely takes a bit of pre-planning and mocking up, such that you cut the vinyl correctly.
The 3M 90 contact cement really earned it's keep here. Great product.
The only trouble I had with the targa/sail panel trim install was this little clip here....
Horrid design in my opinion.
Either the clip is not wide enough or the flanges on the trim piece aren't wide enough.
The clip just wouldn't hold the trim well enough for my liking.
So I put together my own design that was similar, but wider and with a longer stud.
Grabs ahold of the trim much better and with the longer stud, easier to put on.
Sorry I don't have a pic of mine, but just imagine the factory one but a bit wider.
One important note for all you 914-6 guys with the oil tank.
You have to install this trim before you put in the tank as the tank is completely in the way of any reasonable access to get the washer/nut on the trim clip.
I needed to take out the tank anyway to install the oil line that exists the bottom of the tank....no way to tighten that guy up with the tank in the car.
For grins, I thought it might be good idea to "blow out" my heater tubes that run down the longitudinals.
I don't know why? But I just thought maybe some dust might come out.
I just used the shop vac by putting the hose in the discharge.
This is what blew out of the driver's side.
Nice old shop rag and a bunch of dust and dirt..
The passenger side was pretty clean by comparison.
Glad that's not in there when I run my heat or defrost in the future.
Sometimes you have to be creative when you're working on your own and you need a 2nd set of hands.
My wife is busy enough with our twins, so I don't bother her too much.
The bungee method just came to mind and worked great.
Git er done!
Front end all buttoned up....ready for killing bugs.
Those are the Harrington Group stainless steel bumpers BTW.
They look decent enough.
You can tell they aren't quite chrome, but they should last better in the long run.
Decided to use extreme Dynamat on the doors.
And superlite Dynamat on the floors.
Very light weight.
The extreme Dynamat wasn't all the much heavier to tell the truth.
Really makes a difference when you shut the doors.
So that catches us up a bit.
Both front and rear suspension are installed.
The entire brake system also is in place....just need to bleed the brakes and adjust the rear calipers still.
Front and rear trunks as well as front and rear ends are done too.
I have a bit more installation of the dash wiring to go.
Then the carpeting, door/window assembly, seats, removable top.
There is light at the end of the tunnel.
Just a couple more weeks working around the twins needs and I should have my part of the build complete.
Then it's off to Rothsport Racing for installation of the drivetrain, additional oil cooler and alignment/corner balance.
Sleep well....I will tonight after the blasted neighbors quick shooting off their fireworks.
Well Done ...................
Fantastic. Is this part of the project as fun as it looks? Great work!
Time for an update.
I'm about 90% done with my part of the assembly.
Main things left to complete:
- installation of the front and rear glass
- assembly of the windows in the doors
- carpet, back pad and seats
Without further ado, here are some update pics beginning with the front trunk.
And yes, the installation of the fresh air box was a mutha.
For some reason, the wiper assembly was not clocked backwards enough and was blocking the air box from reaching it's desired location.
That took a few iterations of back out....and then back in again.
The distribution boxes on either side had their own set of challenges.
Many new parts, freshly plated parts, etc.
Even the felt for beneath the fuel tank is new.
I like the look of the "tan" hot air paper/foil tubes for sure.
A couple more different angles of the front trunk/rear dash assembly.
Went through a couple of sets of the brake reservoir feed lines before I had a set I was satisfied with....including a new factory set from Porsche (that had the wrong curves). My original ones were trashed.
Many times through this project I've reached out to Retro Automotive Products in the NE.
They never failed to come through with a very nice set of 2nd hand parts at a most reasonable price. Such as the reservoir feed lines.
The perlon that goes on the front bulkhead was fun to install.....not.
I'll have to admit I went through 2 carpets to get the procedure down and be happy with the outcome. 914Rubber products shown here.
Below the spare tire cover board sits the spare.
You can also see the access cover for the MFI fuel feed pump that Cary took care of.
I removed all the ID tags before the build, so they all went back on with fresh rivets.
The detachable roof fully assembly with new seals from 914Rubber and URO rails (they fit great).
Top is very tight and fits like a glove.
Probably as close to water tight as you can get I'll wager.
Freshly textured and painted roof.
Hard to see but new perlon headliner as well.
Couple views of the top of the dash from outside the car.
New 914Rubber dash, vinyl and dash to windshield seal.
All fits very nice.
Now just waiting for the install of the new Sekurit windshield in the coming days.
A couple views of the fully finished rear trunk.
Between the rear fog light and Euro VW/Porsche emblem, there is a lot going on back there.
Went with a Coco mat for looks and durability. They are quite heavy though.
Better view of the underside of the rear trunk lid.
Fit is iffy at this point, but we'll give it some more time and effort before I do anything "massive" to it.
Also, a view of the finished rear end. Euro all the way......
Quick spoiler preview of what's to come.
I had a custom battery mount cut down to size by a local water jet cutting company here in town.
Fits the factory battery tray nicely now.
The battery that I'll be installing is quite "trick" and will be installed in the next couple of days.
Additional pics and updates for the engine compartment will be added tomorrow.
Stay tuned....same Bat station, same Bat channel.
Damn! ....that's nice work. Super clean!
That is a very clean mounting bracket.
Engine bay/firewall all complete at this point.
Waiting to get scheduled for installation of the drivetrain with Rothsport.
Replica 914-6 engine mount/reinforced on the firewall.
I went with this mount due to the factory routing of the snorkel and the rearward wiring.
Many of the other mounts make the wiring harness do some kind of wild maneuver to get through this area.
Lots of 914Rubber seals, etc.
All new cables run.
Rear brake proportioning valve rebuilt by PMB.
View of the 914-6 oil tank install and 914-6 engine bay relay panel.
Went with a GT style oil filler neck.
The orange and brown wiring will be for the aux oil cooler and fan that will be located beneath the rear trunk somewhere.
Opposite side of the engine bay showing the battery tray with CDI box bolted to the side (for the MFI engine) and the MFI micro filter that feeds the MFI pump on the engine.
The stock CDI box was sent out to PartsKlassic to get refurbished and upgraded. They use solid state electronics in the box. The rev limiter is built into the electronics. I've also got a high output matching coil from them as well that sits on the engine.
Hung the cables (throttle, speedo and clutch) up there for the time being to get them off the ground.
The custom battery hold down plate fits nicely in the stock battery tray.
Using Gates Barricade FI hose that is rated for 225psi on this build.
Gates makes some for carbs as well, but the pressure rating is much less.
With the installation of Tangerine Racing stainless steel fuel lines down the tunnel, hopefully I won't have any fuel leakage issues.
View of the rear suspension and rear brakes from underneath.
914-6 GT style steel calipers with vented discs.
Was able to fit in the brake shields as well.
All new stainless steel hard lines and factory rubber lines.
Bilstein sport shocks with helper springs joining the main springs....all from Elephant Racing.
New rubber bushings up top from 914Rubber.
Factory rear swaybar.
Removable ceramic coated exhaust heat shield that Cary helped out with.
Today was gas tank installation day.
All went fairly smooth.
There are just certain things that must be installed in a certain order.
Once I figured that out, I had it all in place in a couple hours time.
Used Gates Barricade FI hoses rated for 225psi under the tank with high pressure hose clamps.
Had plenty of extra fuel line such that it laid in there pretty nicely without any kinks as far as could tell.
New braided hoses for the vapor recovery system and lots of replated hardware (yellow zinc) or new.
New sticker for the recovery can on top of the tank from Car Bone.
Lastly, the zoomy custom battery showed up today.
Antigravity Batteries' lithium ion example.
1200 cranking amps
weighs 11.5 lbs.
This is what they call a "starter" battery meaning it can't handle a car that has a massive stereo system pulling all kinds of amps.
But it is perfect for an early Porsche that has minimal electrical draw....like mine.
Lithium ion battery in it's finally resting place.
Fits like a glove and looks like it was meant for this car.
Over the coming year, it will be interesting to see how it performs.
If the results are good, I'll be getting another one of these for the 73 911 in the garage.
BTW...the neg terminal is on the left just like it's supposed to be.
It has lots of hi tech electronics built into the battery.
Won't let you pull the battery down too low if you leave your lights on.
Just goes into "sleep mode" leaving you enough power for 3-5 starts with key.
BTW part 2. These batteries are not inexpensive, but I thought the technology, lack of fluids inside, longevity (supposed to last twice as long as a normal battery) and especially the weight savings made it worth a try.
Welcome to the future!
Very very nice !
very nice. Obviously you plan on racing. you should have a barrel of fun.
cheers! From Milwaukee WI
Amazing work, just spend a hour re-reading this thread. Be proud Sir......
One word: Tidy
Beautiful results, congrats to all those involved with the build!
This car/project was engine lid challenged to say the least.
One of the engine lid hinge brackets had been ripped off it's location in the engine bay with the previous owner allowing the engine lid to dangle and bend the snot out of the hinge on the lid itself.
Cary installed new Restoration Design hinge brackets.
After paint, the engine lid just never fit correctly with the leading edge (nearest the rear window) being a good 1/2" or more lower than the seal and the adjoining metal work.
Another 2nd hand engine lid off Ebay was no better.
Luck had it that Cary still had the engine lid from the donor car we used for some of the metal replacement on this car.
He and Jack brought it by a few weeks back and it seemed to fit much better.
Some more tweeking with the engine bay brackets and we were there.
Rather than body work and paint a 2nd lid entered from scratch, my paint shop swapped out the hinges from the better fitting lid onto the lid that had already been painted.
Pretty easy to do.
Just drilled out the pins that hold the hinges onto the lid.
Painted the new hinges white and installed them on the existing lid with stainless steel bolts.
Quick and easy and relatively inexpensive.
Below are pics of the newly reworked engine lid.
Fits like a treat now.
Will be fitting the grill and other bits to the lid soon to finish it up.
A lot of this stuff that I just took for granted would fit no problem....turned out to be a big problem.
In hindsight, I should have had Cary test fit the original engine lid after he installed the new hinge brackets in the engine bay to make sure everything was good.
Never thought that the engine lid fitment would be that far off.
Live and learn....
Finally installed the rear window this week.
I used the 3/8 butyl tape for this job.
Was a bit unsure how this would all work out, but in the end, not too tough.
To aid in holding/controlling the window, I purchased a pair of these suction cup devices.
They worked quite well and allowed me to single handedly install the window.
I put a small stool inside the cab facing the rear window to do the install.
Gentle pressure all around had the window sitting nicely and the butyl slightly spread out along the mounting channel.
To finish off the window, I put one pass of black electrical tape to hide the white paint you could see from inside the cabin.
After the rear window went in, I could finally get about installing the new Porsche factory fresh back pad.
My existing one was in such terrible shape, there was no way I was putting that back in there.
Couldn't pull off the resto of the old backed using the 914Rubber kit (guess I'm just not that talented of a retrimmer), so I just bit the bullet.
Actually we get great prices here locally with Sunset Porsche on all factory parts, so in the end the tariff wasn't overwhelming.
Have to say that it really looks great....and brand new! cause it is.
Emerging from behind the new back pad you can see the new navy retractible seat belts from Seatbelt Planet.
Made especially for the 914, they were a cinch to install.
Nice that I had Cary make the modification of adding the recess that the later cars all have in the firewall for the retractible belts.
I think this will be a very nice upgrade over the fixed belts that the early cars have for daily use.
My wife has already given my the thumbs up as she doesn't like the fixed harnesses in the other sportscar.
Couple of poor pics of some of the interior work completed.
All the carpeting is in.
Went with charcoal colored German square weave that Autobahn Interiors put together for me.
I originally had some jute padding down, but it was just too thick I thought, so out it came.
The carpets are glued directly to the floor with Dynamat Lite underneath.
I didn't like the funky rear half carpets, so I put together some patterns for some full size rear carpets that go underneath the seats.
Sent these down to Autobahn Interiors and should have them back next week.
The top mats are Lloyds Mats, black with blue logo.
Didn't like them at first, but they're growing on me.
I'll get a heal pad sewn into the driver side (again Autobahn Interiors) so they'll hold up better for daily driving.
Generic Alpine speakers to go along with the old school Becker Europa stereo.
Both the heat/defrost and hand throttle levers are present and accounted for.
Early 914 foot rest for the wifey.
Even with the adjustable passenger seat that we installed, she'll appreciate this I know.
So at this point, "my" punch list is getting smaller.
1) Install the seats after I get back the larger rear carpets.
2) Install the windshield.
The wife and I will be doing this in the next couple of days. Wish me luck.
3) Finish a bit of wiring under the dash. The radio & speakers, the fuel pump and the rear fog light. Mostly need to find a terminal with switched on (run) power.
4) Finish out the side windows and doors. My attempt at putting a bushing in the door stop arms seems to have worked, so quiet door stops are in my future.
5) Tighten up and aim the headlight/bucket assembly.
6) Put brake fluid in the system, bleed the brakes and adjust the parking brakes.
7) Finish out the engine lid. Just waiting on some speed nuts for the grill.
After all this is complete in the next couple of weeks, I'll schedule a slot with Rothsport to do the drivetrain installation.
The completed 2.7 MFI engine and trick gearbox are waiting patiently at their shop.
They will also add an aux oil cooler....likely underneath the rear trunk.
Put the car at European height, align and corner balance.
Troubleshoot and fix and of my mistakes that I made on my part.
That interior looks great. The whole car looks great. Nice job.
I know you said reassembling these cars is a combination of fun and frustration, but it is nothing but fun watching from this end. You are getting so close. Nice work!
looks amazing. Lots of cool details when you look close.
Rebuilt both door stops again today to try and get rid of the awful snapping you hear when you open and close the door.
After putting in all the 914Rubber new parts in the door stops, I still had a lot of noise.
Upon close inspection, I saw that the arms were moving in and out at the pin.
The pin wasn't moving....just the arm.
Removing it all, I could see that my pins fit snuggly on both sides of the car into the receivers in the door jams.
The holes in the 914Rubber arms were just a hair to big allowing for a lot of movement there.
On-line I found some 3/16" x 5/16" x 1/4" bronze bushings that seemed about what I needed.
Enlarged the holes slightly in the arms and drove the new bushings in with a hammer on my vise.
Progressively enlarged the hole in the bushing such that the door pin would just snuggly fit.
Made sure none of the bushing was sticking out on either side of the arm.
And voila....upon installation, my door stops are much, much quieter now with out all the loud popping they had previously exhibited.
Yay! Happy camper here.
The pic you see here is the finished product on one of the factory arms.
I did this with the 914Rubber arms as well.
Also had some luck with the quarter window install today as well.
After modifying the 914Rubber seals to some extent, the window guide/glass/seal assembly fairly easily went into place.
Still need to adjust the alignment of this assembly, then the side windows will be going in next with all assorting accompanying seals.
Will post some more pics of this area of assembly tomorrow hopefully.
Put down some butyl primer today as we're getting ready for the windshield install in the next day.
Blue tape to help with alignment later.
Put some details here:
Got the engine lid back from the painters after changing out the bent/distorted hinges.
Prior owner had some issues with the engine lid brackets on the firewall getting ripping off, bent hinges and bent engine lid.
Got another engine lid that seemed to fit better and took it's hinges and put on this lid.
Drilled out the pins and went with bolts for the hinges.
The fit is still not "perfect" but more than acceptable compared to what it used to be.
Get to put some of my fun decals on the lower side of the lid.
Pics of the engine lid in the closed position.
Even after getting it back from the painter with the "new" hinges there were fitment issues.
The engine lid from one side to the other was just a bit too flat.
So when you had the lid latched, both rear corners were sticking up too high.
Took the lid off and gently bent it into more of a slight arc.
Now the corners fit better and actually contact the rubber bumpers.
Found a cool rally badge on Ebay in the year of the car (1971).
Helps put a bit of interest on the grill.
The P-O-R-S-C-H-E letters are not going back on the car as I'm trying to replicate something you would have found in Europe.
Got the windshield installed yesterday with the help of my wife.
Took us a couple attempts to get it nicely centered, but finally it was in.
The details of this can be found here:
The butyl primer on the perimeter of the glass and in the pinch weld area make for a very secure installation.
That windshield isn't going anywhere in the coming decades.
Actually the moulding took much more time to install than glass itself, but finally it too was all snapped into place.
My punch list has shrunk down to the following:
1) Finish out the side window install. Currently waiting on a new passenger side window regulator and a new piece of tinted glass for the driver side.
2) Complete the under dash wiring which includes the radio, rear fog light and fuel pump.
3) Install the seats.
4) Bleed the brakes and adjust the parking brake.
5) Test as much of the electrical system as I can without the engine installed.
Its looking bloody Amazing !
Your car has come together nicely. Interior looks great.
You were able to place the dash/front windshield seal in after the window was installed?
How difficult ?,any danger of damaging seal? I don’t intend to remove my front
windshield but a new seal would be nice. Didn’t want to burn money if it wasn’t feasible.
Real nice man.
It's coming together beautifully. Lovely work.
Thanks for the info. I’m going to give this a go when I’m at that stage.
Never thought about the side pillar trim. Thanks mate.
Your 914 really is looking sweet!
Looks great! working on some of the same stuff, so i have a couple questions for you -
What or who's seal did you use for the window triangle glass seal? I am still fighting with this - how did you install? ive seen a few different approaches - i know you posted a few pics on my thread a few weeks back, that you had modified it to get it to fit, looks good on that picture here! - also on your windshield trim, did you prefit all the pieces to get the correct angle and alignment? i really had a hard time with getting the corners to sit down and several clips actually snapped and broke when the chrome trim was being pressed into place! i really had to work the trim to get it to the correct bend/angle to get it to lay correctly and snap in - i didn't force anything but the corner was the worst, ended up scratching the paint in the corner.
- i wanted to say i like the clean plain look of the engine lid with out the letters on it!
- i also had an issue with my rear window, the butyl i was sent i think was too thick i think as i have a gap bigger than it should be and the engine lid deck seal does not touch the window like it should. I might end up having to re do it- did you have an issue with this? it looks perfect, i am a bit jealous-
Sometimes I frequent the Early 911S Registry website as I also have a 73E.
Call me a glutton for punishment, thank you.
They have a thread that's called something like "show me the satanic details."
So people post their custom things they've done to their car, or some neat factory part that few might have....strange and unusual things for the most part.
So here's some of my "satanic details" on this 914 special I'm building.
First is the fuel pump that was relocated to the front trunk and resides under a factory cover plate.
I wanted to put a fun decal on there, so this came to mind.
Love it or hate it...it's there for eternity I'm sure.
Starting to mock up the installation of the seats that are going in this car....more satanic details.
These are the Watkins Glen model from GTS Classics.
I picked them because they were more like a sports seat but still fit into the recess of the backpad.
German black vinyl along with my custom selection of tartan plaid...Robertson Hunting Modern tartan.
Stefan did a great job putting these seats together.
I opted for the raw fiberglass backside as well.
Most folks get these painted black I think.
I wanted the raw fiberglass to tie in with the undersides of the front and rear bonnets and the engine cooling shroud.
Need to finish up a bit of under dash wiring before the seats go in for good.
I'm a big guy at 6'2" and 200+, so I need a lot of ground space to spread out and get my head up under the dash.
The bulb is for the lumbar support adjustments.
man those seats are sweet!!! i have nice seats , stock though with no lateral support. i like the GTS and would go thet way if i get different ones. if i could find a plaid thst had some copper metallic stitching that would be really cool- any issue wirh putting the vinyl pieces down that go before you put in the carpet? i will be doing that tomorrow.
Pic of the floorspace I think you're talking about.
I used the same vinyl that is on my dash and door cards to cover the humps just in front of the seats.
I also used come dark charcoal perlon to fill in other areas that might catch your eye.
I don't like seeing the white paint on the floor or the sound deadening material when possible.
I've ordered a set of full size rear carpets for under the seats from Autobahn Interiors.
They did the rest of the German square weave wool carpets that are in the car.
For some reason you only get half carpets for under the seats....what's up with that?
I do have an arm rest/box that goes between the seats, but still the perlon covers many sins.
Love the build, not sure why I have not been following this one. And I try to stay off the early 911S board because I do not need to feed this addiction any more than I do all ready. And you point out that thread.
My arthritis is acting up today barely move my left wrist so it might be a good day to rest and think, and read and dream.
So keep the details idea going I like it.
BTW, do you fit in your car with a helmet on. I am roughly your size and trying to find seats for my build(s). I have to pull the bottom cushion out of the stock seat to get me down with a helmet on.
Been taking a bit of a hiatus from the 914 assembly due to a number of things....
Frustration factor was getting too high with some of the aspects of the assembly.
Mainly the windshield install, door and top seals.
All giving me fits due to fitment issues, etc.
Also life was getting a bit hectic between the 16 mo old twins, working on the yard and taking in the occasional golfing match.
At least on all of those fronts things are great.
The twins are doing marvelously, the major yard work is done for the year, and besides winning the fall tournament with the men's club and got my first hole-in-one.
So refreshed, I'm back on the assembly of this little monster of a car.
With the new lithium battery hooked up, I began slowly checking out all of the electrical system that I could without the drivetrain currently being installed.
Well heck....no horns.
Ran the horns directly off the battery and nada with either of them.
I've got the early Hella horns that are made of bakelite and have both a high and low tone horn.
I drilled out the 8 rivets that hold the halves together and voila....the innards of an early Hella horn.
Basically you have a magnetic coil and a set of points (like in your distributor).
The problem with mine was the points had corroded up (or developed a skin on the contact patch) and this was preventing the electrical current from passing.
When I put a multimeter across the two connections on the back, I got an open circuit.
A quick clean up of the points and I could read about 2 ohms across the connections.
Testing them with the battery again and we had noise.
Here is a close look at where the points that usually cause the problem are located.
A quick coat of black satin paint for the front of the horns and a set of M4 screws with nylock nuts completed the assembly of the horns.
And do they sound great....and mega loud.
As an added bonus, I found a couple more non-operating sets of these early horns on Ebay and TheSamba for very little money, and performed the exact same fix.
Guess these contact points inside are the number one issue when these types of horns cease to function.
So I've got 2 sets of backup horns for the car (will likely put one set up for sale here at 914World over the winter).
Got all the lights on the rear fired up....
Went with the LED's from Spokewerks.
They are simply incredible.
Very bright, easy to install, run much cooler than the standard bulbs which can melt the housings if you use the wrong ones).
Kind of a "no brainer" upgrade to me.
Every 914 should have a set of these on the back for increased visibility.
The rear fog is awesome as well.
Put together this with a light a found on Ebay (black housing), factory wiring harness and the mounting bracket that was offered here on 914World.
Again, another great mod/addition for increased visibility by those following you during the day or night.
For the front, we are going Euro lighting as well as the rear.
The turn signals are functioning units built by Martin Baker here on this forum.
I'm really liking the clear (Italian) side marker lens as it goes quite well with the Euro turn signal lens I think.
Here they are lit up.
Finally, the full shebang with the headlights and yellow fogs.
The fogs are factory lights.
The headlights have the LED upgrade from 914Rubber.
They are quite bright and very white (not yellow like most car headlights).
Still working on the high beams (and indicator)....those aren't working yet.
When you pull the stalk, you get the click, but the high beams don't illuminate and the blue high beam indicator is dark.
I did install one of those JWest fog light modules for flashing your fogs, so perhaps I've got some wiring in the wrong place.
Could be my flasher module is dead as well....although my turn signals and emergency flashers all work fine.
We be troubleshooting all this.
My interior lights, license plate lights and rear trunk light didn't work at first.
It was all wrong polarity with the wiring.
Went with an LED for the interior....very cool looking bulb for sure.
get with Mark or Matt about the high beams not working. the first ones i got from m him didnt work on high either- its something to do with the voltage or something in the LeD controller, anyway he will send you a different set that will work.
Couple more pics of the lighting head on.
As a side note, the alignment of the headlight door and eyebrow didn't take all that long due to the inferior fit of the fiberglass front hood....if that makes any sense or not?
Today I removed the gas tank so that I could address both the inoperative fresh air blower and the wipers that were obviously put together incorrectly by yours truly.
Guess I've been in and around all the stuff in this front trunk enough that the removal was fairly straight forward.
That one nut under the dash to remove the wiper assembly is always a bugger to get to.
Step one, blower investigation.
Started out by putting my multimeter on the four inputs and things just didn't make much sense in what I was reading.
So I figured nothing lost at this point in taking it all apart and looking deeper.
6 circular clips pried off with a screwdriver and the 2 halves of the blower assembly were apart.
I had previously taken out the 2 screws that hold the blower assembly into the airbox.
Now I could see how things appeared to work.
Seemed to read somewhere that sometimes the contact points get corroded up and don't make very good contact preventing the electrical current front getting through.
This was starting to remind me of the horns and their problem.
I cleaned up the 2 sets of points that were closest to the blower connector.
Then I hooked some power up to the the power in on the blower motor and grounded the other 3 speed outputs one at a time.
Everything seem to be working now.
So a quick re-assembly of the blower motor into the air box and another bench test to see if the fan came on all 3 speeds.....bingo, it did.
Next I plugged the chassis connector into the blower assembly/airbox to see if the dash controls would achieve the same successful results.
They did...up to a point.
My low speed on the dash gave me mid speed on the blower and the mid speed on the dash gave me low speed with the blower.
So I flip-flopped those two wires coming into the dash controls and all was finally right with the blower.
Take away from all of this.
Don't assume everything will work even if it looks clean on an old car that you don't know the history on.
This car was basically a basket case when I received it, although from the pics it might have looked OK.
I've had to replace nearly everything with new or good 2nd hand besides fixing a bunch of items like this.
If I'd done this while I was assembling the car, I wouldn't be doing this now and having to remove and reinstall a lot of parts.
Step two, the wiper assembly.
The wipers worked fine with the two speeds, but when you turned the wipers on they would go a short distance to the left before heading off to the right to clean the windshield.
I had previously pulled the wiper assembly apart so I could repaint the frame itself.
Obviously when I reinstalled the wiper motor into the frame I had mis-clocked some of the linkage.
On the bench I hooked the motor up to a power source and watched the linkage do it's thing.
It became pretty clear that the one short linkage that actually attaches to the motor was not on correctly.
Moving it a bit and tightening back the one nut brought the desired results.
Now when you turn the wiper switch on, the wiper blades go directly right to clean the windshield as they should.
All that's left now is reinstall the wiper motor assembly, fresh air blower box and fuel tank.
One of the clips that holds the control cable onto the fresh air blower box broke so I'm waiting for some replacements to show up.
After I get the above completed and the new headlight relay installed, all the electrical items have then been tested, replaced or fixed to function as they're supposed to.
A note about the broken air box cable clip.
This was the 3rd spring steel clip that broke on me after getting them all re-plated in yellow zinc.
I've talked with the guy who does my plating and he's swears that his shop does all the correct post plating heat treating.
At this point, I don't believe it.
One part might have been chance....but not 3 spring steel parts.
Something is amiss with their process.
Either no heat treating or not doing it soon enough after plating.
I'm looking for a new plater.
Next on the to-do list it the installation of the 914Rubber main targa seal and attempt to get the doors, windows and seals all correctly aligned and fitting nice and snug.
Knocking out some items on the punch list.
1st up....no hi beams.
I'd previously taken a test light to the hi and low outlets from the combination relay that is tucked up under the dash on the fuse panel.
Power from the low side but no power from the hi side.
Seemed like the original relay had given up the ghost.
Reading on this website about some going with an "electronic" relay vs the original mechanical relay, I still opted to replace with an OEM style mechanical relay.
Luckily I found a couple of NOS relays on The Samba, so I bought two thinking at least one of them had to work and possibly I'd have a spare as well.
The relays finally showed up and they looked showroom new.
After a quick swap, out with the old and in with the new, I had hi beams again with the telltale blue light on the dash as well.
The LED bulb kit from 914Rubber sure does look nice and will surely light up the road in great fashion too.
Next up on the punch list was reinstalling the fresh air blower after getting the motor to work on all 3 speeds.
When I previously tried to install the blower, the clip that holds the control cable broke.
So I ordered a couple more 2nd hand clips from my friends at RetroAutomotive.
Ready to get the control cable hooked up and the assembly back in place.
They finally arrived, so I could reinstall the blower assembly.
It was just as big a PITA as the 1st time.
You definitely have to install the control cable before sliding the blower assembly up into place....no way to get at that after the fact.
Finally on my 3rd try the blower assembly was in place and I tightened up the two bolts that hold it in.
So here we are again with the fresh air ventilation and heating system all back in place.
Next on the agenda was getting the fuel tank back in place.
Pretty straight forward.
Just reattaching the two fuel lines on the bottom, setting in place and reattaching the vapor recovery system and filler neck.
Lesson learned here was to bench test all electrical components before installing on a nearly 50 year old car that you don't have any history on (as in what was working and what wasn't).
So at this point, all the electrical works on the car.
The lights, wipers, horns, etc.
Even checked for starter and run power back on the engine bay relay board....so we're good to go there as far as drivetrain installation goes.
My carpets finally arrived from Autobahn Interiors.
I was never satisfied with the factory half size carpets underneath the seats, so I made some patterns, sent them to Autobahn and they put together a nice set of full length carpets for me.
Finishes off the floor nicely I think.
This is the same dark gray German square weave that the rest of the interior has.
Also installed the center cushion box.
All that's left in the interior is putting in the tartan plaid sport seats.
I'll wait to do that to the very end.
Still need some interior access as I'll be finishing up the doors, side window and door panels.
Plus the new windshield is likely coming out for a re-install as i'm not thrilled at the fitment and how the trim moulding looks at this point.
One parting shot.
While I was under the car today, this vantage point really looked sharp to me.
Nice view of the front suspension: Bilstein HD shocks with raised spindles, front Tarett sway bar, black plated Aluminum S calipers with vented rotors.
Quite the eye full.
The suspension is courtesy of Elephant Racing and the brakes are from PMB.
As far as I'm concerned this is the 914 build to beat.
Everything on this car is top shelf or beyond. I imagine you will be having a long talk with your insurance company to make sure you are properly covered.
OK....round 3 for the windshield install.
This time I used the Porsche factory clips and 5/16" butyl.
Windshield went in like a breeze (guess practice makes perfect).
Using the smaller butyl cord vs the 3/8" I mistakenly used last time, the windshield sat down into the opening much lower.
It looked promising for getting the windshield trim properly snapped in this time.
I put the lower trim in 1st with the two corners attached.
All the trim clips had a nice positive snap as the trim snapped into place.
Next I went with the 2 sidepieces.
These all go in as one unit with the center piece holding them together at the top of the windshield.
Along the top of the windshield....those all snapped in easily.
It was the sides that are the challenge still.
Especially the first clip up from the lower corners.
The corner pieces hold the trim far enough away from those 1st clips up the sides that it's tough to get those to snap in.
I eventually chose to gently bend the trim in those locations such that they could more easily get into the clips.
Then it was snap, snap, snap up both side and I was done.
My only issue is the small corner pieces don't really wrap around the trim enough.
It's easy to flatten out the little bend that's supposed to hold them onto the trim.
Same with the top center connector.
A nice re-design would be to add more material to where these small connector pieces wrap around the actual trim.
That's a "wrap.!"
My passenger side rear caliper is terminal, so I'll be getting a set of factory 914-6 calipers to replace them.
I have a weeping that just won't stop and I'm suspecting that there's a casting defect that allows brake fluid to flow from the bleeder valve gallery into one of the thru bolt bores via a micro fissure or some void.
While that is being resolved, I'll be finishing up the side windows with a set of new factory vent window seals.
This really is an incredible jigsaw puzzle to get all this door/window/etc to line up nicely after such a major rebuild/refurb.
glad to hear you have the trim and window in . i also found we had to slight bend the trim and the trouble spots were those lower corners for sure,
they just dont fit well. so lets see a picture!
question for you about your front blower. what was causing it to work only on 2 of the 3 speeds? i ask because when i had mine out i took it completely apart as well to put in new seals and all that , and it looked like the resistor things were fine. i dont know why but my blower only works on the low setting and ive tried cleaning contacts on the controls but to no avail. it does appear the controller is the issue but of course that would require pulling cables, so the tank would again have to come out etc so i will have to live with it just the way it is .
I'll get some pics of the final fitment here in the morning.
Before I even put the controls in the dash, I bench tested them and found I was missing the high speed.
Looking closely I could see that the arm that swipes wasn't able to touch the contact pad on the high speed as the pad had been worn away badly.
To fix that, I ended up soldering a small copper patch on top of the worn pad and dremel sanded it down to the correct height for the swiping arm to hit it.
Retesting the controls showed I had all 3 contacts for the low, mid and high speed fan selection after the fix.
So when I couldn't get all the speeds with everything installed, I was pretty sure it was not my controls.
I pulled the blower unit from behind the dash and took the blower out.
There was a bit of disassembly involved, but I finally got enough access to get to the 3 different contacts for the 3 different speeds.
They are a bit like the points in your distributor.
So I just cleaned up all 3 of them (points) the best I could and without fully reinstalling the blower unit, just plugged it into it's connector behind the dash with the blower just dangling where the fuel tank might normally be.
Kind of a quasi bench test.
Didn't want to go to the trouble (and boy is it a pistol) of installing the blower unit and have it still not function fully.
Low and behold, I now had all 3 speeds so obviously one of the speed contacts on the motor itself was not allowing the juice to flow.
Just needed cleaning up.
With everything appearing to work fine, I now went and installed the blower assembly back into it's hole.
So it might not be your controller but the contacts on the motor instead.
I kind of had both issues at one point or another.
Likely not the resistor but the contacts.
Same was the problem with both of my horns.
The contacts inside the horns were corroded so badly that no electricity could flow.
A bit of time with some fine sandpaper or a dermel sanding disc cleaned up the contacts coppery clean....and the horns were blasting again.
Finally pretty satisfied with how the windshield fits now.
The Sekurit glass from Finland (and ProSource) is super nice and very high quality.
Fits like a glove.
Definitely going with the smaller butyl cord (5/6") was the ticket as well as using the factory trim clips.
Still a tough demanding project, but very doable by the DIY type.
I had my wife help me place the windshield, but everything else is a one man job.
WOW!! This is fantastic !! Insanely jelly
These are trucking their way to me as we speak.
A pair of GT hoods from Getty Design.
They look great and are much thicker so supposedly hold their shape better and will accept body working.
Still only weigh something like 14 lbs each so are still much lighter than stock steel units.
The original "Armando" GT hoods just didn't work out.
They were much too flimsy and fit like heck.
These will be up for sale soon for someone with a race car that wants the absolute lightest hoods possible.
They would have been acceptable on a race car but not on a predominantly street car.
The Getty hoods are being shipped directly to my body and paint shop did the car this past Spring.
Additionally, this past week I ordered a set of rear 914-6 calipers with spacers for vented discs finished in black from PMB Performance.
The leak could not be resolved from the other set of rear calipers I was working with.
I have hood envy. I have been thinking about the Getty fiberglass hoods for my 6 conversion for a while, but was concerned about the finish. I am looking forward to your posts about your experience and view of the finish and sturdiness of these hoods.
They look great.
We stopped using fiberglass hoods on the 911 builds because they would never lay correctly when the hood was shut. The aluminum ones are much better since they have the correct curve and don't hump in the middle when latched. Too bad there isn't enough market to do 914 hoods in aluminum.
Getting the 914 set up for winter travel....
They "might" fit with a little more work in the fender wells.
Is it April yet?
When I see something like this, I get an itching to do an offroad 914 and take it rally crossing.
Obviously I was up to no good today with time on my hands.
Getty GT hoods are in hand and on the car.
What a difference in fit compared to the other hoods I had.
These are much thicker made so show none of the wavy nature as the previous ones.
Still these hoods are very lightweight when compared with the steel hoods but still tough enough for a daily driver/street car (I'm assuming/hoping for).
The unfinished fit is already miles ahead.
Again these hoods will get the Carrara Weisse on the top with the underneath just getting a clear coat.
You can see the old front hood in the background.
Those will be for sale for someone with a race car in the very near future.
Here's the front Getty hood and it's "out of the box" fit and alignment.
Again, already miles ahead of the other hood.
I can easily recommend Getty for a set of these GT hoods.
High quality and it was fairly quick build/delivery....something like 3 weeks time.
Still an expensive proposition at $900 per end plus shipping, but this is the look I wanted for this car.
So it's back to Superior Auto Body here in Gresham to get all the gaps fine tuned and paint on these new hoods.
Also they will have a look at the driver's side door/window situation.
To date, I have been unable to align the side window/door such that it all fits into the door/window seals correctly.
Possibly the geometry of the door opening was slightly altered with all the work we did on the car previously.
This shop is good, so they'll have some solution I believe.
They also have the 73 911 in for some touch up work, so the garage is completely empty of sports cars for the first time in modern history i think.
Celebrated by washing the floor later in the day. Ha
Bye bye for now.
When the car returns, hopefully I'll have in hand from PMB the newly refinished/rebuilt 914-6 GT-ish rear calipers to install.
At that point, I am completely finished with my part of the re-assembly.
The car will then be scheduled for an appointment with Rothsport Racing for installation of the drivetrain, ride height/alignment, aux cooler install to finish up the build.
Just outstanding work and outcome. You can certainly be very proud of that car.
I'm talking to Getty about both hoods too. Glad to hear they passed your inspection/fitment phase.
Your car looks great.
Time for an update....it's been awhile.
At my last post, I had sent the car back to the paint shop to get the new Getty front and rear fiberglass GT hoods fit, finished and painted.
Also I was waiting for PMB to put together a set of "new" 914-6GT rear calipers for the car as one of my previous calipers had a blake fluid leak that could not be eliminated.
The GT calipers arrived a little while ago....completely rebuilt by PMB along with a special black coating that would match my front S calipers.
Workmanship from PMB looked stellar as you would expect.
Within a couple of hours, I had both rear calipers installed and plumbed up.
The spacer washers I had used with the previous calipers still worked, so I was able to use the brake backing plates.
The only mod that was necessary was to open up the hole in the brake pad retaining pins such that the small little clip that keeps them in place would fit....easy fix.
After hooking up the brake lines to the calipers and filling the line again to the caliper with brake fluid....wait for it....wait for it....there was nary a drop of escaping brake fluid to be seen. Success!
This car should have very excellent braking capabilities now with the S calipers up front, GT calipers in the rear both working with vented discs, 19mm ATE master cylinder, all new stainless steel hardlines and a reworked proportioning valve all from the minds of PMB.
Your car is at the highest level that I have ever seen for a 914
You should be very proud of the work on it.
The other big job was to get the new hoods from Getty into paint.
The previous ones were just not up to the quality that I needed from street use.
Getty put together a set of their GT hoods in record time...at least to me it seemed that way....a mere 2 weeks.
Out of the box, these looked like they were going to fit much better.
Still a good amount of body work was done along the edges of the hoods and in the corners to get the best fit/look possible.
Then the Carrara Weisse was laid down again by Superior Auto Body here in Gresham, OR.
Below shows the fitment and gaps are very nice.
And the hood has the right curvature to follow the body from front to back.
The undersides of the hood were just clear coated so that all the balsa wood reinforcing and fiberglass weave could easily be seen.
Nice freshly replated or new hardware always looks great on new paint.
The topside paint was wrapped around to the underside just slightly.
Thought this looked better than having the color end abruptly at the edge.
Overall I'm very happy with the rear hood now.
Eventually I may try to come up with a better prop rod than the current carbon fiber unit I just kind of put together quickly.
Front hood...same drill.
Fit and gaps are good enough for government work....
The edges and corners did take some body work.
Think the shop used something called Corvette filler to build up the edges a smidgeon.
In this pic you can see the clear side marker lens I thought I might like with the Euro turn signals and white paint. Plans are changing on the side marker lenses.
Also with a nod to the 73 RS lightweights, a Porsche hood crest decal.
A good look at the clear coat on the bottom side of the hood.
Eventually the golf alignment rod will give way to a proper GT hood prop.
More newly plated or new hardware.
The allen head bolts were some special bolts I found on-line that are used to mount the seat bases of 911's if I remember correctly.
Love the look of the balsa wood reinforcing.
Another detail shot of how the topside paint was wrapped around to the underneath.
Close up of the hood decal.
Believe I got this from Early 911 S Registry.
Here is the side marker look I'm going for....
It's all Italian baby...as they say.
It is quite bit better looking with the vertical fluting and darker orange than the US version.
This is proving to be the most difficult thing to track down.
I've got the right/passenger side covered with an NOS unit I picked up on Ebay over the winter.
The left/driver side is tough to locate.
I've got a couple of folks in Europe trying to locate me one....buy no luck yet.
There's a WTB ad on our website here that I bump every month or so.
Hopefully this unicorn will land in my backyard one day.
US side marker lens:
Italian side marker lens:
1) Need to bleed the brake lines next. And possibly install the axles so they can be torqued...then I can adjust the parking brake.
2) Just Dashes is shipping back to me now a newly restored main targa trim piece and also the one at the top of the windshield. The vinyl grain pattern should be close enough. When I get them in hand, I'll post some pics of the end result.
3) Adjust the driver door/window for better fitment.
Then I'm done with my part of the project.
Next will be off to Rothsport Racing for installation of the drivetrain.
2.7 MFI RS spec engine (230hp) and rebuilt/upgraded 901 with 904 mainshaft, Guard 930 LSD, close ratio gearing, etc.
Your car is looking absolutely beautiful. I really like the Italian warts too; if you happen upon a stash of those..........
Love Love Love this build. So well done!
Although I put together one set of wheels/tires for this car already (Mahle gas burner with 185/70VR15 Michelin XWX), I thought I needed a set of "performance" tires as well.
Slowly I purchased the four 15x6 Fuchs and had them refinished in a quasi RSR style with petals and inner appearing frosted with a polished lip.
The tires from Tire Rack just showed up today.
I went with the Toyo Proxes R1R in 195/55R15 size.
These are directional tires.
Nothing super low profile or quite R compound, although the UTQG rating is still a fairly sticky 200.
Should be fine for the street along with the occasional auto-x or track day.
Hard to argue the look of Fuchs on a 914.
My little experiment with getting some of the interior trim refinished just was delivered to me the other day.
I sent out my main targa pad and the piece of vinyl that is behind the sun visors to Just Dashes in California for a makeover.
I did this for 2 reasons.
1) All the so called 2nd hand "nice" targa pads still had issues (cracks, sun damage, etc) and cost at least $400.
2) "New" replacements either had the wrong vinyl pattern or were still in the conceptual phase with no delivery date in sight.
The price from Just Dashes was similar to the best used ones, but the delivery schedule was long (+4 months).
Shipped mine out and waited....
This is what mine looked like and was typical of all the used ones I saw.
Do notice the opening for the hole where the mounting screws go in.
It has a fairly square or sharp edge.
You'll want to remember that when you see what returned from Just Dashes.
Factory style plug for the mounting holes. Again keep this in mind.
Pics are so-so, as I can't roll the car out in the daylight yet, but you'll get the idea.
Although the vinyl pattern is not an exact match with the factory, it is still very nice and close enough for my needs.
If you are a hard core serious concours type...maybe not.
Still need to paint that hardware (did so in later pics).
Here is what all the screw holes looked like from Just Dashes.
Remembering the very square/sharp edge to the factory holes, these were much more rounded at the edge.
So much so that using the factory plugs was not going to happen.
Here's what the piece that goes behind the sun visors looked like.
Again, I'm happy with the vinyl and finished product.
Not so much with the profile of the mounting holes.
I did come up with a solution.
I needed to cut a hole on each end of this vinyl piece for the front latch to get access to it's fastening cleat in the roof.
The hole is not yet cut in this pic.
Again those pesky rounded holes for the mounting screws.
Pics of the targa pad installed.
Amazingly all the mounting holes matched up...worried that would be a problem.
I didn't really want to drill a bunch of new mounting holes to put this piece in place.
The hardware has been repainted at this point now.
The other side.
Again, sorry for the pics.
When I get the brakes bled this week, I'll get the car off the jack stands and out in the light of day for better pics.
Oh yeah...there are plugs/caps installed as you can see.
More on that later.
So nice to have a fresh looking non-cracked targa trim piece.
This really is one of the focal points of the car when the roof is off.
A view from underneath.
Nice pretty caps all along the length.
So my solution for not being able to use the factory caps that cover the mounting screws.
These little guys that I saw at my local FLAPS (3 for $5!!!) that I ended up buying them on Ebay for something like 50 for $7. Deal.
It was necessary to shorten them a tad which I did with a set of wire snippers.
Also I wrapped the teeth with the same cloth covered tape I used when I redid my chassis wiring harness.
This made the part that shoved into the hole just a bit larger.
My modified plugs fit nice and snug and look as good as the factory ones.
Likely fit much better.
If they ever get loose....just put another wrap of the cloth harness tape around the base of the plug.
In the end, I am very happy with the result.
The refinished targa vinyl piece looks really great inside of the car.
Few people will ever know that this is not the way the car came from the factory....it's that nice.
The vinyl piece that went behind the sun visors went in without a hitch.
Just had to cut the access hole on each end for the 2 front targa latches.
Interior is complete at this point.
Only 2 things left on my list:
1) Bleed brakes
2) Make some adjustments to the driver door/window for better closure.
Absolutely stunning work. Such a beautiful car.
Really like those black caps. I'll look into those as a few of the mount holes in mine have enlarged and work hold the original caps in place. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the tip re the plugs for the Targa pad, etc. I also had Just Dashes re-do my stuff and we may have to use your "fix". Looks perfect IMHO.
Looks terrific. Did you use factory screws for the targa pad. I was going to try to find something with a small allen head. Anything would be better than the little phillips head screws. Or maybe you just have more patience than me.
Nice solution on those plugs. It really does look beautiful. It won't be long now!
, just started plumbing on Mick Carey's 914 race car at Rothsport. T4 - Fat.
With your power train install, four 914 projects in the works.
From right to left...
Full length plug.
Cut down plug.
Cut down plug with base wrapped with cloth wiring harness tape.
Like I said you can find these at your FLAPS, but they're expensive.
You get 3 for nearly $5.
I got mine on Ebay here (50 for $7.99):
Thanks for the ebay link raynecat ,you have to love their global shipping program ????? $48.00usd to New Zealand....lucky I freight forward to Oregon for free and get cheap shipping to my country,jeez where do they find those rates .
Kiwi-man....they should work great.
I could put 10 or so in an envelope and mail them off to you if you like?
Feel like it's been a long time coming......
My portion of the car project is finally complete.
Had to do a bit of neck surgery recovery this summer before I could finish my part of the work.
Got the rear parking brake adjusted and entire brake system bled.
Had some help from the resident P-car guru who visited me the other weekend.
Seems that with S calipers, it does help to bleed the inner bleed valve as well as the outer.
Got the driver door and window adjusted to the best of my ability.
Still not perfect, but what is on these cars.
So off we went today....to Rothsport Racing's shop.
Dropped the six conversion hotrod off and they will begin work next week I believe.
Need to install the drivetrain (2.7 MFI motor - 230hp, modified 901), adjust ride height and alignment, add an aux oil cooler, and whatever odds & ends.
Hoping to have the car back in time for a bit of autumn driving before monsoon season arrives here in the Pacific NW.
Yeah Dude! Giddyup!
Nope, went on Carl's rack right after lunch.
Engine is in the chassis room. Heard them yakking about the gearbox. Looks like your on the fast track.
Things are happening already.
Stopped by Rothsport Racing today and saw that the drivetrain (engine and gearbox) were bolted into the car.
Excuse the crappy cell phone pics.
Looks like it belongs there.
Little bit of tweeting to do on Ben's heat exchangers, but nothing major.
Had to reroute the driver side parking brake cable.
Also modify the 914-6 front engine mount cap plate, but again nothing too crazy.
Re-welding the outlet on the sport exhaust to exits in just the right place.
The engine fits into the car very nicely. You'd think this car had been designed for a six cylinder.
Lots of work still to do.
All the cables, fuel lines, etc.
Need to hook up the side shifter transmission parts.
Install oil cooler with fan on the underside and plumb it up.
I'll likely check in next Monday for the next update.
Everyone in the shop seems to enjoy the 914 being there for the most part. Their bread and butter are the 911's but there was another 914 race car there besides mine.
Too bad this baby wouldn't work in my car.....
The engine is in it's final resting place.
All 2.7 liters of MFI wonderment.
Obviously the trick gearbox is in as well.
HE's hooked up along with the Dansk single outlet sport exhaust.
Most of the plumbing is done, as are the electrical hookups.
We had one question this morning with the 3 wires going from the alternator to the voltage regulator.
We had a blue wire instead of a red wire.
Had to be educated by Perry Keihl that 914-6's all came with a red wire, while most 911's have a blue. The other 2 wires (black and brown) are the same with both vehicles.
You learn something every day.
Will be starting up the engine pretty soon.
Afterwhich, a nice aux cooler and fan setup will be inserted into the oil flow system.
Think the shop said they'll be going with a compact Fluidyne cooler and fan.
After that, we just need a bit of ride height adjustment and a good performance alignment, and the project is fini.
Then there will some fun.
No new pics today....just a bit of commentary.
On my way home from helping my 86 year old uncle purchase a 2013 Mini Cooper with a manual transmission (that's a great story in it's own), I stopped by Rothsport.
I was greeted with "your ears must have been burning."
What says I?
Guess they had just started the engine inside the car for the 1st time prior to my arrival.
So they re-started it again for my benefit.
Man...that motor sounds incredible with the single outlet sport exhaust.
Nice throttle response from the MFI.
Sorry my 4 banger friends, but this flat 6 is what it's all about in my book.
And considering the hp is over double what a standard 914-6 came with....
All that's left is ride height, corner balance/alignment.
And inserting a Fluidyne oil cooler with fan into the engine oil circuit.
Looks like we'll be installing the cooler on the passenger side beneath the rear trunk.
The most difficult thing will be fabbing up the oil lines to and from the cooler.
The fan will be thermostatically controlled....coming on only when needed.
I'm told if there any no problems from the point forth, that the car should be finished up next week some time.
That's awesome news! Beautiful car inside and out.
The word from the shop is that the ride height and corner balance/alignment is complete. So it's a runner and streetable now. Installation of the Fluidyne oil cooler/fan will take place week.
Seems like I'll have the car completely finished by Rothsport within a week. Yeehawwwwww
Stopped by the shop today to get a couple of pics for the insurance company. Excuse the pseudo crap pics from my cell phone (thought all modern cell phones took pretty nice pics....mine not so much? ) Think my insurance company (Safeco) uses Haggerty for these special interest cars.
Here's a couple of exterior pics.
The car just came off the alignment rack so the rocker panels are not back on yet. These had to be removed to access the rear toe control arm set from Patrick Motorsports.
I'm happy with the ride height. Definitely "Euro" or performance height.
Cute little car Doug!
Assorted other pics....engine bay, interior, trunks.
2.7MFI and it's accessories all fit nice and tidy in the engine compartment.
Wasn't sure how much of the amber fan shroud would be visible, but it shows pretty nicely down in there.
Amber backs of the sport seats ties in well with the engine shroud and undersides of the lids.
Think I'll be losing the "Porsche" mats and going with the same Coco mats I have in the rear trunk.
Here's the Coco mat I have for the rear trunk. It's heavy but nice and fits the mood of the car.
Talking about heavy Coco mats (like in my trunk)....we've got the weight of the car.
With 10 gals of fuel, the car came in at 2176 lbs.
I think considering I have that "heavy" trunk Coco mat (ha), the rear chassis reinforcing kit, the interior Englemann kit and the six cylinder engine....that the weight of the car is pretty good.
Tried to look up factory weights of 914-6's and I got a range of 2072-2194 lbs.
I'll have to ask around to all those building recent six's....what do they weigh?
So with 230hp, my power to weight ratio is about 9.46 lbs/hp.
Think that sounds good.
All I know is that stock 73 touring Carrera RS's weighed more than this car, so their power to ratio isn't as good.
With the close ratio gearbox, this car should really move out under acceleration.
Still waiting for the oil cooler install, then we'll do some road testing.
Your car looks terrific. I like to Coco mats too and will hopefully end up with a set of the green ones for my car.
Well, I got the call today to come to the shop to drive the call and let them know what I thought....as in does it need anything else.
Beautiful fall weather today in the Portland area, so who could say no to that?
The car sounds incredible through Ben's stainless steel heat exchangers and a single outlet Dansk sport muffler.
It's been awhile something like 30+ years since I've been in a 914. My very 1st Porsche when I was about 30 yrs old was an orange 74 2.0.
I had obviously forgotten much about the 914 driving experience.
Right off the bat, the 901 gearbox/shift pattern was driving me crazy.
Took off in reverse at one of the stop signs...luckily no-one behind me. Ha
Initial impressions are that there is a lot of power with 230hp sitting inches behind your head, it's pretty dang loud (in a good way), the gears really are close ratio and low, and I had forgotten about the awesome handling of these cars.
My other P car is a 73 RSR hotrod with a 3.6 Vram, steam roller wheels and tires, and something I've been driving for almost 30 years.
This was the car I purchased and modified over the years since selling the orange 914 a long time ago.
I'm very comfortable in that car.
In this new 914-6 hotrod....not as comfortable yet.
So it really rides likely too stiff for what I will use it for most.
If this was a dedicated auto-x/track car.....perfect.
For the street, the 21mm torsion bars and 150lb springs are too much for the low weight (2176lbs) of this car.
I'm already considering getting a set of 19mm t-bars and 110 or 125lb springs for the rear.
If I can get them quickly enough, I'll get Rothsport (Carl) to get them installed next week.
Otherwise, that will be a project that can wait until next Spring.
The handling is really quite different from the 911.
The steering is so light with the modest width tires (195/55x15) I have on the car.
The Toyo R compound tires are very grippy.
Quite the slot car.
Can't wait until next Spring when auto-x season starts up...this will be one fun car.
So I've got to work on my 901 shifting a bit.
If you try to guide it too much from 1st to 2nd, it's quite balky.
But if you just nudge if from 1st into the neutral slot, let it find it's bearing for a fraction of a second, then proceed North again with the gear lever, it's very smooth sailing.
Will just take me a bit of practice.
The factory 380mm steering wheel that I love so much may be too big.
I'm about 6'2" and my legs nearly are up in the steering wheel.
Carl the mechanic (about the same size as me) noticed the same.
So I'm sizing up a Momo 350mm heritage Prototypo that has distressed leather.
It's very similar to the Magnus Walker steering wheel....just without all the Magnus Walker do-dads on it.
Nimrod me, mounted the rear view mirror too high on the windshield, so it's next to useless currently.
I'll fix that with some guitar string and shave it off the windshield and re-mount lower.
The sport seats from GTS Classics (Watkins Glen model) are just about perfect.
As are the retrofitted retractible seat belts I insisted for this car.
As for driving impressions of the 230 hp 2.7 MFI engine.
Well let's just say it's got plenty of go power....especially once you pass 4500rpm.
After that, it's just about like launching off the deck of an aircraft carrier I'd say.
Ride height looks good I think....not too low.
Plenty of room in the rear for bigger wheels and tires if I'd like to try a set of 15x7 Fuchs with some 205, 215 or possibly 225 tires.
Not much left to do at this point.
The car runs so cool....barely getting it up to 85-90C, that Carl thought let's just run it for awhile without adding the auxiliary cooler and see how it goes.
I'm in total agreement.
The on board engine oil cooler is a "high efficiency" unit that Stoddard sells, plus the 2.7RS engine is actually quite unstressed at only 8.5:1 compression ratio.
Most of the longhood 911's and even the 73 RS all came with the trombone loop in the front fender well that really didn't do all that much in the way of cooling.
They mostly relied on the on board engine oil cooler
I'll keep you posted on how this all works out.
If needed, we can slip a Fluidyne aux oil cooler with fan underneath the rear trunk to help out with the cooling duties.
So Carl needs to still install the heater control boxes that come off the heat exchangers, do a double check on everything, and that will be a wrap. Unless we get the softer t-bars and springs in next week in time.
Once home, I'll take a bunch of better pics and get it all posted.
And drive, drive, drive while the fall weather permits.
Wow, what a incredible build. Congrats and enjoy your car.
Congratulations on your maiden trip. Great observations; I am sure you will get accustomed to the 914 again. Enjoy as you dial in the finer details.
This is awesome! Thanks for posting the detailed first impressions. I had to chuckle about getting used to the 901 shift pattern again. It's been more than 30 years since I drove a 914 too and have wondered how rusty I'll be. I still find myself trying to shift my other cars in the 901 pattern though so I'm hopeful it is still in muscle memory.
Doug - Congrats on the drive. I would drive it 200-300 miles before you make any decisions on the shocks and springs. If everything is new, it can take a little while to settle in and loosen up. Same with the trans. They often smooth up after a couple hundred shifts. You might also want to check tire pressure. I bet your 914 car is quite a bit lighter than your 911 and the narrow tires have less give than the steamrollers.
On the other hand, a 21mm torsion bar is way stiffer than a 19mm. More than just the 2mm would suggest. I think closer to 20% and again, your car is probably lighter than a stock 914-6.
When my six conversion grows up, I hope it is half as cool as your car. I love all the details!
These are the smaller replacement steering wheels I'm considering.
The stock wheel at 380mm is cramping my leg room.
The 1st wheel is the Momo Prototipo "Heritage" edition. It's 350mm overall diameter.
This is essentially the same wheel as the infamous Magnus Walker wheel without all the Magnus Walker doo-dads.
It has distressed leather which looks cool and gives it instant patina.
The next wheel is a 350mm Nardi leather.
The nice things about these wheels is they have the scallops on the backside that are great for your fingers to slot into. The Momo is completely smooth on the backside.
Last wheel is again a 350mm Nardi but this one is wood.
Normally I wouldn't consider a wood wheel but it might look nice in my interior and play off the custom gear shift knob I had built.
Any thoughts on any of these?
I'm leaning towards the Momo at this time.
I already have the correct Momo adapter in hand as well which is nice.
The Nardi will require either re-drilling the adapter as the bolt circles between Momo and Nardi are slightly different.
Or buying a Momo to Nardi adapter piece.
I've never been a fan of wood rim wheels in a 914. I don't get the "hot rod" vibe from them. I like the Nardi since it looks a lot like a 911R wheel - my favorite. It's funny, The 380 wheels fit me fine.
The stiff chassis might be sending more of the road through the wheel than a stock car. It just proves that there is no one setup that is best.
This thread has been a fantastic read from start to finish. It’s always interesting how the finished product varies from the original vision, whether by chance or purpose. Really enjoyed your writing and pictures. It is magazine worthy. Not to get too bromancy but then there are your mad metal skills (as well as the Super) which make reading really enjoyable. Very well done.
I went down a similar path with my ‘71 1.7, but fortunately the only metal work was flaring the rear fenders a bit for the 7s and some minor repair around the jackpoints. Went with the Rennshift + Jwest + tailshift which makes a nice “gated” shift. Did the reinforcement thing and 5 lug conversion with a complete elephant polybronze setup. Like you even converted the passenger seat to slide fore/aft. Then completed it with a carbed rebuilt 3.0 with a 914-6 oiler. Had as sport muffler but got tired of it making my ears ring, so went with a stock Danske with the 6 HEs. Like yours, wanted it looking pretty stock on the outside, but relatively radical for the drivetrain and suspension. I too felt like the suspension was way too firm but got used to it and in the corners it is just unreal. It turned out to be a great ride which I enjoy much more for short haul than my hot rodrodded 911. Very similar paths indeed and very well done, from your neighbor to the north.
Enjoy your beauty!
the seats are Nice,,,,
George Follmer..horn button
Nice horn button.
Here are 3 more that caught my eye....
She's home finally.
Had a false start last week.
Half way home, the engine started to cut out and wouldn't run at any kind of throttle.
Trailered back to Rothsport, and they tracked it down to a fault in the fuel shutoff solenoid for the MFI system.
Beautiful day in Portland, so I went back out and fetched the car.
Safe at home in the garage.
Sharing space with its stablemate.
Lots of little projects to take care of besides driving it as much as possible in the next week or two while the weather is nice.
Typical Portland winter monsoon season is coming soon.
Need to lower the mirror on the windshield so I can behind me better.
Lubricate both the steering wheel and gear shift....squeak, squeak.
Purchase and install a small steering wheel. The current 380mm factory wheel is just too big for my long legs. Looking at a 350mm aftermarket of some type.
Need to purchase a new micro switch for the MFI fuel cutoff circuit. Mine is obviously dodgy. The one that is failing was new when I purchased it. Bad QC I think.
Repair and repaint right corner of the front valence. Tow company jacked that up with their tow straps getting me to the shop initially.
Nice set of Coco floor mats to match what I have in the trunk.
Copy of the prop rod that some of the 914-6 GT's used. Kelly Moss will make me one this winter. Then I can ditch the long fiberglass rod.
Purchase the heater box barrel nuts so I can finish the heat/defrost install in front of the engine.
My parking brake light just stays on, so I think the little switch down by the parking brake handle is no good. Again some bad QC on some of these parts.
Long term projects for next year include:
-possibly softening up the suspension by going with 19mm T-bars (current 21mm) and 125# rear springs (current 150#). Just drive and we'll see for now.
-gearing is very short. Great for auto-x, rallying, etc. Long drives on the highway, maybe not so much. Again it's not an immediate issue. But might look at changing out 5th and possibly 4th gears.
-refinish and repaint the roof. Looks fine, but if you're a perfectionist, it might need some attention. Ha
That's all for now.
I'll get some more close up pics of various parts of the car up here in the coming weeks just for fun.
Car is running cool so far. Just 90C after everything is all warmed up. We'll take a wait and see approach to adding the aux oil cooler. Likely need an auto-x on a very warm day or a track event to get the temps up there. Or some 105F weather as we sometimes get here in the summer.
Green car's nickname is Kermie.
914 will be Snoopy....black & white with an attitude.
The handle on the wagon is making me cringe.
Nice toy box Doug. The teener turned out really nice.
I kind of like the leather horn buttons that that guy on EarlyS is producing that fit the momo wheel.
Moved the mirror down about 1-1/2" and that seemed to do the trick about actually using it to see behind myself.
Kind of a bonehead move mounting it so high.
Luckily a guitar string was able to get the mirror off the windshield easily.
A new mirror sticky patch and I was good to go.
Also working on other "user friendly" mods.
Changed out the big wood gearshift knob for a smaller factory example.
There's a guy on Ebay that's refinishing some bakelite knobs for the 901 so it's got the correct shift pattern.
Now the knob doesn't hit my leg as much with the 1st gear (or reverse) gate.
Momo Prototipo "Heritage" 350mm wheel has been ordered.
It comes with distressed leather giving it more of a patina look.
The necessary Momo hub (8000) is MIA but there's another company that supposed makes the necessary part.
It's been ordered.
Settled on a horn button from Car-Bone.
When it arrives, I'll post a pic.
The smaller OD (350 vs factory 380mm) should give me some more leg room.
Been working my way through the faulty fuel cutoff circuit on my MFI engine.
This thing put me on the side of the road 1st time I picked it up from the shop.
It's supposed to cut off the fuel on off throttle situations saving you fuel and preventing backfiring.
Mine was hooked up incorrectly.
I've rectified the wiring issue, sourced a new micro switch which works great and am now waiting for a new RPM Transducer (speed switch) from the UK.
The old ones were transistor based and had a lot of issues with the legs of the transistors (there's 5 of them) braking off.
I believe the new one is solid state so should be much more reliable.
Finally got the heat/defrost hooked up today. Not much to do but get the barrel nuts in there and see if everything fit.
Driver side cable was too close to the heater valve if that makes any sense.
I ended up shortening the heater valve actuating arm by 1/4" and that made all the difference.
Not much fun crawling under a low car to do this work with just the jack and jack stand.
It would have been much easier for the shop to do this.
Initially, the flapper wouldn't flap.
That turned out to be the stub from the heat exchanger being long enough that it went too far into the heater valve and jammed up the flapper.
So I just pulled the valve off the HE stub about 1/4" and that did the trick.
The flapper would finally flap.
Passenger side was a bit easier as I didn't need to shorten the heater valve arm.
Lessons learned on the driver side were applied to the passenger side, and the job was complete.
Only thing left to do was start up the engine, let it warm up a bit and see if I had either heat or defrost...hopefully both.
It was all operational, so I'll be warm and toasty on any dry winter night that I venture out and about.
"Heritage Prototipo" showed up today.
Man, it's a great wheel.
The weathered leather is a nice touch.
Just waiting for the hub which will be here any day.
Just ordered a couple of 3" 18-Ga copper discs.
Will attempt to make a custom sized horn contact disc as my factory contact disc is not compatible with the Luisi steering wheel hub contact pin location.
Just need to put a 1.5" hole in the center of the disc and drill some mounting holes in the disc.
I think this will work.
I like everything about the Liusi hub...the shape, how it fits on the steering shaft, how the Momo steering wheel mounts to it, etc.
Only the location of the horn contact pin is a problem.
Some back story.
The "Momo compatible" hub showed up the other day.
It was a Luisi hub model S5904 supposedly for Porsche 914 1969-71.
Everything fit well except that the location for the spring loaded horn contact pin was not in the correct location for the stock 71 914 horn contact ring.
Either I send the Luisi back and keep looking for the super rare Momo 8000 hub or come up some shade tree engineering.
The above 3" disc is my attempted work around.
Got the car out for an appraisal this week.
Avant Garde Collection doing this took some nice pics of the car.
They have an incredible photographer you may have seen on BAT once or twice.
These are big, but I'll not shrink 'em down as the details get lost.
The details of these pics opened up on my large Apple Mac are just incredible.
Sorry I can't share that bit of it.
So what's new?
Usually teething issues I think.
Might have a 914-6 engine relay board issue.
Charging system is currently not working.
Both the alternator and voltage regulator have tested individually as good.
Kind of leaves only the wiring (doubtful) or the relay board as the issue.
I did have some issues with the relay board previously, but thought they had all been addressed.
Ditching the accordion parking brake handle and will go with a later style.
The mechanism on the folding handle I have is just not working correctly.
Absolutely stunning car. Congratulations and enjoy.
Home Sweet Home ...................
I pulled both bumpers off in order to remove both valances.
They both needed work.
The front got mashed by the flatbed guy and his straps.....argh.
The rear needed some tweaking as it had been hit and we didn't quite get some parts of it straight enough.
So both are in getting another round of bodywork and "hotrod" black applied.
At the same time, I'm getting the fuel vapor recovery tank "fancied" up.
My rattle can paint job just wasn't getting it.
Just got in the new Coco mats for the cabin that match the one I already had for the rear trunk.
They are beauties.
Also just installed my new "Heritage" Momo Prototipo steering wheel complete with rare Momo 8000 hub/adapter.
The correct hub/adapter was definitely a challenge to find.
Ended up scoring one over on the Early 911 S Registry.
With the thicker seat pad in my sport seats, I'm sitting up a bit higher and the tops of my legs were barely interfering with the factory wheel.
Going from a 380mm OD down to a 350mm OD helped in that regard.
I'll try to get pics of both of these up in the next day or two.
I'm still working on the fuel cutoff circuit on the MFI injection on my engine.
Slowly troubleshooting the system.
Also I'm experiencing charging issues as well.
Freshly rebuilt alternator and new voltage regulator and new battery.
Currently troubleshooting this as well.
Hoping it's not the alternator, because we all know what that means in a 914-6....
Looking good, Doug.
Got the fuel cutoff circuit on the MFI motor operating finally today.
It took a new micro switch, a new solid state RPM transducer and some corrections to the wiring to and from the micro switch.
Now with the engine running over 2000rpm, when you depress the micro switch the engine shuts off until below 1000 rpm, picks back up and hunts between about 1500 and 1000 rpm....as it should.j
For the MFI engine, when you get off the throttle, the fuel should shutoff until the engine revs drop below a certain value (about 1000 rpm) and then the fuel turns back on so the engine doesn't die.
Porsche did this to give better fuel economy and prevent backfiring during deacceleration.
Nice to know my system is functioning as designed.
MFI cars are not known for the excellent fuel economy, so every little bit helps.
So another of the teething problems with an entirely new/rebuilt car solved.
Next up....the charging system.
Both the alternator (freshly rebuilt) and the voltage regulators (I have 3 at my disposal...2 of which are brand new Bosch) are still suspect.
Let the games begin.
Some updates coming....
Just installed a new battery as the Lithium battery just didn't have enough Amp-hr to be a good daily driver type especially at night with the lights and wipers on.
So out with the light weight (11 lbs) and in with the new (42 lbs).
I purchased this AGM battery made by XS Power (model D4700) from Jegs onllne.
$279.99 including shipping plus you need a set of $10 terminals.
Ah: 62, 2000W / 3000W
Max Amps: 2900
Reserve Capacity: 110 Minutes
Weight: 42.2 lbs
Fitment is beyond perfect.
Terminals in the correct location....negative closest to the firewall.
Cleats/feet on both the front and back of the battery allowing use of the factory clamp.
Battery fits perfect in the stock battery tray.
Like it was meant to be there.
Wish I'd known about that battery before I bought my Optima. It's just a black wrap away from being about perfect.
Here's the final rendition of my battery install.
Added a bit of black vinyl and a nice Ebay Bosch decal and voila....
Would fool most folks in thinking I had a real Bosch battery installed.
Gotta keep them guessing.
Quite a transformation from what I started with:
Who's the mad scientist now? Very cool!
Just got an email from Stefan at GTS Classics (custom seats for your Porsche).
They finally got the material in to do my center cushion....and they've knocked it out already.
So should be shipping back to be soon for installation.
Will look spiffy with my existing GTS Classics tartan seats.
Looks very custom and perfect.
Short couple minute startup sound track/video of the engine.
This is the engine.
A 2.7 MFI RS spec engine making right at 230hp and built by Rothsport.
Using a set of Ben's 1-5/8" stainless steel heat exchangers and a Dansk single outlet sport exhaust.
The factory Leistritz muffler pulls the power down about 10hp.
Will try to get some kind of driving video in the next few days......
It's been awhile since I've put any updates.
Today began installing the 914Rubber fender liners.
They come with rivets for fastening the plastic liners to the mounting brackets.
It quickly became apparent that installation was going to be difficult if I used the rivets.
The rivets fasten the liner to the mounting brackets and then the brackets use your rocker panel and valance sheet metal bolts to hold the liner in place.
So I opted to use speed nuts that sit on the mounting brackets so that hex headed metric screws could be used instead of the rivets.
Here was the hardware and bracket ready to bolt into the car.
The reason I went this will become apparent pretty quickly.
Here's the leading edge (front) that utilizes the valance mounting bolt.
In theory you could have put this in as a unit (bracket and liner) as you actually have access to the bolt that mounts the valence.
The real problem with the rivet method is mounting the trailing edge (rear) bracket that uses the rocker cover bolt.
You can't access the bolt to secure the bracket to the rocker cover as it's behind the liner.
So with my method you mount the bare bracket first and then fasten the liner to the bracket.
Here's a better view of the finished product.
No way you're getting your hand in behind the liner to tighten or loosen the bracket with the liner in place.
With the speed nut and hex head screws I used, you can easily take the liner off in a matter of minutes without removing the brackets at the valance and rocker panel.
Inspection and cleaning is still an easy thing to accomplish.
Now off to install the other three corners.
Maybe I should consider a set of those for my car? I like the clean install you did. Let us know if the other 3 were as easy as the first.
Nice work! Bookmarking for reference in case I get a set of those. I can't quite tell, does the bracket hardware replace the speed nut on the rear of the rocker cover? I ask because I'm missing one and they turn out to be kind of an oddball size.
In general, the 914Rubber fender liners were fairly straight forward to install.
A little bit of mods to the brackets (trimming and painting) and trimming or shortening the fender liners themselves.
I ditched the supplied rivets and went with my speed nut/hex head screw instead to be able to easily remove the liners in the future (for cleaning and inspection) without removing the brackets.
Not an inexpensive addition to our cars at $245.
But well worth it as the fender liners should keep the water, trash, mud, leaves, etc away from the rocker panels and the far recesses of the fender wells.
A good preventative measure for future rust.
I took the time to read all your thread..wow, what a nice work, and a dream engine joining a perfect 914. Well done!
Got the annoying squeak/scraping sound (shifting into reverse or 1st) I've been experiencing the past year.
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