Question for you guys that have replaced your rear trunk floor pan. What did you do about the chassis stamp number? Looking for ideas.
Dont cut it out. Trim the replacment part to fit. My car was missing that whole section so i never had the option.
I definitely don't want to cut it out... Just don't want it to look like it's been hacked and I have some rust issues close to the stamp. I know this thread is worthless without pics... I guess some ideas (reassurance) as to where to cut the original pan?
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Another question about the stamp #132522 ... I know that the 1 represents (production body) and 3 represents (Karmann 914/6) but the 2 seems odd as it is a '70. Isn't there suppose to be a 0 there to indicate the '70 model year?
Someone commented on another thread that their Six transaxle number matches the last four of the trunk numbers. Coincidence? If you have your COA, and it lists your transaxle number, is it consistent with your trunk number? Or if you believe you have the original transaxle still in the car does that match the trunk?
Personally, I would cut that original number out and have it welded into the new replacement panel. I would have pictures of before, during and after to cover the questions.
Michael, thanks for your response, I was starting to wonder if everyone forgot to tell (Socal) Andy to put me on the "ignore'' list...
I have applied for my COA but haven't received it as yet. I'm not expecting too much from what I've read in the transmission COA thread. My transaxle number ( if I'm reading the right number) is 914/11HA0026115 which isn't close to the chassis stamp # in the trunk. The number under my dash is (1302542) but still researching that code to see if it is suppose to be the same as chassis number?
I'm thinking along the same line as you about the documenting of the chassis # swap to a new trunk floor pan unless someone has a better suggestion.
I bet you are getting anxious to get your '71 back. I appreciate the thread on your car and the pictures Scotty is posting. Looking forward to many more of it when it returns to your driveway! Thanks again,
Anyone else who has suggestions or enlightenment before I
Where is that number stamped on the pan. I want to try and find it on my car (unless it was only stamped on 6's)
#'s in front of the rear trunk latch before the cross brace.
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My understanding is that the number written on the bottom of the dash should be the same as the number stamped in the rear trunk floor pan.
Recall my car had the rear trunk pan replaced (poorly) so Scotty put a new trunk pan in. He has my dash in storage now and once he pulls it down I am hoping it too has the number written on it. That is the number that should go in my trunk. I have my COA so I can't wait to compare that to the transaxle number listed for my car.
I just can't wait to see some primer on the tub at this point. That will be a milestone and then Scotty is planning (long-term) to shoot color the first part of September. I am hoping the car will be back to my by November..... 2015
as comical as that may seem, that might be exactly what we end up doing. There is no fraud as the car is mine, is a real 71 Six and the trunk panel was replaced due to damage. We know (I believe) the correct number from under the dash, and that s what belongs in the trunk. That is our plan at least....
I was seriously hoping you were going to say that.... The dies will most likely run a bit more than $14.99
Andy, thanks for dropping in. What's your take on the number stamped in the trunk pan? Can you elaborate on the decoding of the last four digits as to what they represent?
Personally, I wouldn't cut out the stamp unless the rust damage makes it absolutely necessary.
You simply can't win if you do.
If one is honest they must tell any future buyer the stamp was:
1. Cut out and welded back in, or
2. Trunk replaced and re-stamped
Even if you've a COA and full video documentation of the entire repair including re-stamping or welding the stamp back in, it will raise suspicions.
Because, when the money goes up the honesty goes down.
My two cents.
Stapler, I hear what your saying. I've looked at this for so long I'm going cross eyed. The area outlined in yellow is my concern. I can't cut out this portion of rust as it leaves too narrow of margin next to the stamp. It's not rot but fairly heavily rusted as to not wanting to leave it and as you know rusted metal can't be welded. I don't want to leave a rusted piece into the replacement pan. I just can't see a way to cut the metal around the stamp to weld in the new pan. That's why I'm posting to maybe get a fresh set of eyes and a solution I haven't thought of. So if you see a way as to how to leave the stamp and still get a replacement pan in I would like to hear it.
I know it may seem like a trivial matter to some, and some might say it's just a number but numbers are what make the difference. Just trying to do the best thing I can for this car.
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Alt411,
I was in the same boat. I needed to replace my trunk but fretted over how to keep/recreate the stamp. I researched stamps and measured the letters, trying to make sure I got the font right.
My body man said "Ill just cut it out and weld it in the new floor pan, easy" Well he did, and it looks great. You can not detect a difference. I am pick up my newly painted shell on Saturday and will post a pic of the floor stamp.
Thanks Targa70, I look forward to seeing it. A fresh, newly painted tub.... congratulations!
Well I'm still trying to verify my rear trunk stamp #.... I just got a reply from
db9146 (Thanks again D) whose sixes serial # is somewhat close to mine and he shows 7 digits on the rear trunk stamp #. I only have six digits in my stamp #. It seems to be missing the model year (0) which should be the third number in the series.
My question to those with a '70 six.... Can you post here your trunk stamp # so I can verify this damn thing please. Does anyone else have a six digit number instead of seven digits? My trunk floor pan looks to be original as all spot welds look authentic as does the rust...
Maybe the beer was flowing on a Friday afternoon and the dude who stamped my trunk screwed up?
Under dash #
Rear trunk stamp #
No problem on this car, the trunk floor needed to come out for the new drivetrain. I plan to graft the carefully removed # section back on to a flat metal surface in the same general area.
Marty
Marty, did your # have six or seven digits and is your car an original six?
* nice work
1970 914043(1095 ) chassis # 131 279 pictured, can not read crayon under dash
1970 914043(2567 ) chassis # 132 330 no pictures, never looked at bottom of
dash
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How tall are the stampings? I measured mine and the numbers are 1cm tall.
rgalla9146 Thanks! Interesting... Your serial number is close to db9146's yet you have a six digit stamp and he has a seven digit stamp
I thought the third digit was suppose to show model year and your third digits show neither. I guess I need more data or go back and research some more. I am starting to believe I don't know what to believe.
Db9146: mine are also 1cm stampings. Thanks for that. You guys' stampings look more professional than mine do... My guy was
Thank you both for posting.
Good news, my 70 914-6 only has 5 digits as well. Also missing the '0'. Maybe there was a period of time when they didn't use 6 digits. My production date was In May.
I have been researching this for many years. Only on the 1970 914/6 did the chassis/production number not include the year digit; at least as far as I have found. The only exception that I know of is a very late 1970 with Sportomatic, and thus the hump in the rear trunk, which actually got a 1971 production number. With production # 2652 both body and dash match, but that may be a coincidence; the only other pair I have after that also matched, but my data is very thin. Otherwise the majority of 1970 production do not have matching dash & body.
Also, I have the trunk production # stamped in the center as shown in the photos above for the 1970 model year. Then for 1971 it moves to the right rear corner. I do not know of any exceptions to this general rule, but would like to get documenting photos of any or all cars possible.
Please send me production #'s and dash #'s along with VIN's and paint codes please. Confidential is fine if you wish.
Dave, my 914-6 has a six digit Karmann trunk code, 132391 and VIN 9140432347.
If you haven't found it yet, check the member's VIN # database on this site. Should help you quite a bit. There are also several threads in the forums addressing this subject.
My dash number corresponds to my trunk code and it's blood orange, while my car is light ivory. That fact confused me for a long time before I discovered 914World. I just couldn't figure out why the color was different because my dash appeared never to have been removed. German efficiency I guess.
Without going to look at mine I believe it only has 5 digits and car#729. I think it is 13094 and maybe has a sixth digit in the paint I can't distinguish.
My 70 914-6 has a six digit trunk stamp and was built in February of '70.
Just looked at mine. March '70 /6, Trunk # 13091. VIN ...0836.
Sorry, I don't have the under dash number as the dash has never been apart on mine.
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