The eagle eyed among you have seen that the AAR is missing on the pics of my engine. It looks to be shot. It measures 13 Ohm. Somehow I am under the impression that I've read somewhere that it's a 13 Ohm wire, but needs 39 Ohm resistance when tested.
On the Pelican pages, I found an article how to remove the upper and lower part and a 'how to' when it comes to repairing the AAR. Sounds familiar?
Finally: is there an alternative AAR from other makes/cars/models that can be used instead of the original Bosch VW thing?
Menno
Inside the AAR is a bimetallic strip that turns the valve. Put it on 12V and see if it turns if not, it is possible to use some type of penetrating fluid to loosen it. You can take it apart an lube it as well.
Just soak it with PB or WD for a few days and connect it to 12 volts. Give it about 3-5 minutes to fully close.
13 ohms is the correct resistance.
To test: Hook up +12V to the wire coming from the bottom of the AAR, and ground the outside of it. Hook a hose up to one fitting on the valve. You should be able to blow through the valve when it is cold. After the power has been on for 5-10 minutes, you should not be able to blow through it.
--DD
Also, just a head's up...it will be hot after a few minutes with the voltage applied so be careful picking it up. That's why it's a good idea to have a short length of hose to try and blow through rather than putting your mouth on the AAR itself.
The AAR on my old 72 was frozen. I filled a small tupperware with WD40 and let it soak submerged for a couple days. Worked perfectly after that.
I just emptied a can WD40 in a plastic container and put the AAR in. Now let's see what happens in a few days time.
Keep you guys posted!
Menno
Would someone post a picture of this please. I want to make sure I identify it properly. Thx.
Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada
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