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Posted by: john77 Jun 19 2015, 03:47 PM

Shifting into first has started making a blood curdling grinding noise even when I come to a dead stop. My shifter is sloppy as hell - I dread any AX course where I get into 3rd as more often than not I'll downshift into 4th rather than 2nd - so I'd been considering upgrading, possibly to a Rennshift, for a while anyway. So, I'm thinking it might be time for a whole gearbox/shifter/bushing 'while I'm in there' upgrade.

Anyone in SoCal had this done and been really pleased with the results? Any shop in SoCal you could recommend?

I know it's rarer than an albino saquatch, but I'd love to come out the other side of this with as precise a 914 gear change as possible.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 19 2015, 03:58 PM

It might be something a simple as loose "cone screws". I'd check them first, if you haven't already.

Posted by: bandjoey Jun 19 2015, 04:22 PM

replace the shift bushings and you can adjust the linkage yourself. No special tools and a couple hours work. Do a search here and you'll probably find some pictures it's not hard.

Posted by: Hank914 Jun 19 2015, 04:25 PM

Start with cone screws and all bushings.

Then move up to the rest of the tranny.

DIY with Dr Evils CD-ROM, clinic and help from this community.

Posted by: bandjoey Jun 19 2015, 04:29 PM

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=257269

Trannie notes to read.

Posted by: rjames Jun 19 2015, 04:33 PM

914 shifting is considered fairly sloppy even when everything is adjusted right.

If it's grinding, I would start with adjusting the clutch first. Something you should learn how to do because it's easy you'll likely have to do it once in a while. Save the big jobs for a shop or you'll go broke quickly.

Posted by: john77 Jun 19 2015, 07:18 PM

Thanks guys. I was wondering if this was something I could do myself. I have zero experience working on my cars beyond cosmetic and electrical jobs, but it's something I want to do and I recently started collecting parts and reading up how to rebuild my front suspension. I have access to a friend's shop, and all his tools (he specializes in old BMWs, but did a great job tuning my webers), so it looks like I may add this to the list.

Posted by: colingreene Jun 19 2015, 09:39 PM

I am in south orange county, i may be able to help.

Posted by: bandjoey Jun 19 2015, 11:29 PM

Use search here and find a lot of help. Also hop over to pelican parts and study their tech articles. U can do it.

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 19 2015, 11:36 PM

Renewing the shift linkage system is one of the most rewarding, especially for the parts costs, fixes. A new hand with basic tools and limited skills can learn this job and not pay a bunch of dough to have someone else do it. Remember, the whole process starts at the shifter. Get your feet wet, the water is fine.

Posted by: Cuda911 Jun 19 2015, 11:54 PM

If you want a top notch shop that will give you the best possible shifting (or any other mods/repairs to your car), I'd HIGHLY recommend Mulligan Racing Development in Vista, CA.

The owner has been racing 914s longer than most anyone, and builds 914 race cars (among other things).

It will be well worth your drive down from L.A.

I wouldn't even think of taking my cars anywhere else.

Link:

mulliganracing.com/

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Jun 20 2015, 12:05 AM

If the OC is not too far, take it over to Aase Motorsports...real good with a 901 simple problem or a major fix.
714.992.2283
Marty

Posted by: RobW Jun 20 2015, 06:24 AM

Here's a link to a firewall bushing install. The guy who did it is a real loser though.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=244532&hl=shift&st=0

Posted by: john77 Jun 20 2015, 01:11 PM

Thanks guys, this is such a great forum, I really appreciate the encouragement.

Any thoughts on the Rennshift, is it a good upgrade from the stock shifter?

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 20 2015, 02:46 PM

AFTER you have everything else figured out. find out how bad a 914 doesn't have to shift first. you might need that money for something else if its deeper than the linkage. then up grade.

Posted by: ConeDodger Jun 20 2015, 03:18 PM

I agree with the above suggestions, but don't expect nirvana... Grassroots Motorsports, described 914 shifting something like this - 'you'd have better luck finding second gear stirring your Cheerios in the morning.'

Posted by: mharmon Jun 20 2015, 03:24 PM

Callas Rennsport in Torrance does fantastic work- been going there for nearly 20 years....

Posted by: Harpo Jun 20 2015, 04:03 PM

I highly recommend the following from 914world member racerchris who owns tangerine racing. Shift linkage kit & fire wall shift rod bearing.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm

Posted by: campbellcj Jun 21 2015, 10:05 AM

I agree this is probably within your DIY capabilities, unless there is an internal problem with the transmission or clutch which you understandably may want to farm-out. Anyway, in L.A. (SFV) TLG Auto is a trustworthy and 914-friendly shop. Marco is a long-time 914 fan/owner.

Posted by: Heeltoe914 Jun 21 2015, 10:33 AM

Its really easy to do it yourself bring a pin an paper I will show over Lunch. You buy

If you happen to order all the bushing before coming out I can show you how easy it is on the lift. PM me here

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 21 2015, 10:54 AM

i would take leamon up on his generous offer. save yourself a couple of c-notes.

Posted by: john77 Jun 22 2015, 04:09 PM

Thanks so much, what a generous offer. I'll shoot you a PM.

It only got worse yesterday after AX. It was hard to get into first/reverse all day (nothing new), but then on the way home it suddenly started getting harder and harder to get into any gear

Hopefully, that points toward the problem being with the shift linkage/bushings rather than the transmission.

Posted by: campbellcj Jun 22 2015, 09:38 PM

Wow. I know my 914 shifts better than 98% of them out there, as it's been extensively rebuilt/upgraded/sorted. But lately I've been driving my 997 a fair amount with its stellar Numeric Racing shifter with action like the proverbial rifle bolt. So yesterday I pulled-out the 914 to do some work on it and was appalled at the shift action. It almost inspires me to go back thru the 914 again and see what else I can do.

Posted by: RobW Jun 22 2015, 10:08 PM

Sure, take the SKILL out of racing a 914....

Posted by: rjames Jun 23 2015, 02:30 PM

If it's going south that quickly, I doubt it's a bushing (although they likely still need replacing). I'm still betting that the clutch just needs adjusting which is just tightening/loosening 2 bolts on the end of the cable.
If you haven't done so, get the Haynes manual, especially since you've got tools at your disposal. This is the easy stuff.

Posted by: john77 Jun 24 2015, 11:43 AM

I think you're right. I read through Dr Evil's excellent pdf and a lot of the symptoms are pointing toward the clutch cable. Work's a little crazy right now, but I'm hoping to get an hour to poke around under their tonight and see what's going on.

Posted by: john77 Jun 29 2015, 10:16 PM

Managed to finally get under the car tonight. It's a 73, but the number on the tranny case is 914.301.101.00, which unless Google is lying is a tail-shifter, so I just wanted to check what I'm dealing with. Is this tail-shifter or a tail-shifter that's been converted to a side shifter?

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/bahama68/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb2epl16c.jpg.html

Question 2: Do I just tighten the the nut at the end of the clutch cable to adjust the clutch?

And, finally, there seems to be a bar blocking me from getting a wrench in to remove the top plug in the transmission. Is that normal, or is what I'm looking at not the top drain plug?

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/bahama68/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscg5jhska.jpg.html

Posted by: Bob L. Jun 30 2015, 11:05 AM

Something funky there...
I don't have a bar like that on mine. Or any of those brackets/links connected to it. one looks like a dipstick tube. I would inspect those bits and see if they do anything. Someone here will probably know what they are from/for.

That is the fill plug half blocked by the top of the bar. I think the drain plug is under the bar just behind the clutch cable pulley.

Always make sure you can get the fill plug open before you drain it.

Posted by: Hank914 Jun 30 2015, 11:07 AM

Plus looks to me that you do have a side shift not a tail shift.

Posted by: Racer Chris Jun 30 2015, 12:01 PM

The bar which that covers the fill plug is part of a custom bracket to mount the -6 throttle linkage bellcrank on a non 914-6 transaxle.

Posted by: john77 Jun 30 2015, 12:35 PM

Thanks guys.

Chris, have you dealt with one before? Looking at it it doesn't look like that big a job to remove it so I can change the tranny oil, just undo a few nuts and pull the throttle linkage to one side.

Posted by: Racer Chris Jun 30 2015, 01:35 PM

I haven't seen one of those brackets in my shop yet, but what you have in mind to do is what I would do.

Posted by: Kansas 914 Jun 30 2015, 02:38 PM

While you have that "bar" off - notch it so you can get to the top plug next time.

Posted by: Bob L. Jun 30 2015, 03:37 PM

If you don't have a -6 , you could probably just take it off and leave it off.
It's just weight.

Posted by: Racer Chris Jun 30 2015, 03:55 PM

Maybe you didn't notice the headers in his pics.

Posted by: Bob L. Jun 30 2015, 04:05 PM

No "maybe" about it. I missed them.

Posted by: Heeltoe914 Jun 30 2015, 04:21 PM

The bar was made to allow you to have the linkage mounted to operate the linkage that runs up to your carbs or injection. If its been working clean it up and go as mentioned notch it for that fill plug.
The bushing look warn, and I do not see the 6mm cone head screw coming out from where the shift linkage bars end connects something is going on right their???

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 30 2015, 04:46 PM

Plan on doing your bushings. They look like they've been in service for a while. Shake the rear bar just forward of the console. How much does it move around in the bushing?

Posted by: john77 Jul 1 2015, 10:49 AM

Great idea, thanks.

Posted by: john77 Jul 1 2015, 10:56 AM

Which bushings are we talking about? The car was built in 2008, but didn't see that much action until I bought it 18 months ago. The more I poke around under it it seems like pretty much every single bushing on it needs replacing.

Seriously though, do you mean the shift linkage bushings or the tranny mount bushings?

Posted by: Racer Chris Jul 1 2015, 11:21 AM

I'm pretty sure he meant the shift bushings since that's the main topic.
You should check the tranny mounts too though.
Sometimes the rubber is badly age cracked, but at least the design won't allow the assembly to fall apart if the rubber does fail.

Posted by: Steve Jul 1 2015, 11:38 AM

On top of checking the bushings, check the shift coupler. It's at the firewall under the rubber cover. There are two bushings in the coupler that turn to plastic over the years and disintegrate.

Posted by: Racer Chris Jul 1 2015, 01:05 PM

He'll be replacing that coupler with a u-joint in a week or so.
Thanks for the order John!

Posted by: Steve Jul 1 2015, 01:10 PM

Nice!!!! Love your products Chris!! Your 915/916 adapter works great and saved me tons of time with adjustments.

Posted by: john77 Jul 1 2015, 01:19 PM

Posted by: Chris Pincetich Jul 1 2015, 01:34 PM

The Rennshifter is great, but stiff. Best as the "last" upgrade. Worth it!

After I replaced shift rod bushings, I fixed lots more slop by changing the transaxle mount bushings. They were cracked and almost falling apart, and you couldn't see the cracked rubber until you had them off and in your hand. WEVO makes a nice upgrade

Posted by: john77 Jul 1 2015, 03:10 PM

Thanks Chris. I just finished reading the tech article on the bird about this and from the symptoms it does sound like my tranny mounts, and possibly also my engine mounts, could do with replacing. Not really confident this is a job I can do myself though.

Posted by: campbellcj Jul 2 2015, 06:58 PM

Trans mounts are a very easy DIY. Engine mounts are not quite as quick/easy but also totally DIY-able. Same with the Rennshifter which is a very nice upgrade once everything else is sorted out properly. The damn linkage bushings might be the most frustrating bits truthfully. And you definitely should check/replace your clutch cable "while you're in there" and that is also one of the least-fun jobs on a 914 but again, DIY-able without much wrenching experience.

Posted by: john77 Jul 2 2015, 10:27 PM

[/quote]
Trans mounts are a very easy DIY. Engine mounts are not quite as quick/easy but also totally DIY-able. Same with the Rennshifter which is a very nice upgrade once everything else is sorted out properly. The damn linkage bushings might be the most frustrating bits truthfully. And you definitely should check/replace your clutch cable "while you're in there" and that is also one of the least-fun jobs on a 914 but again, DIY-able without much wrenching experience.
[/quote]

I tightened and 'double-nutted' the clutch cable today. Immediately helped the shifting, and reverse stopped grinding, but first is still doing it if I try to shift into it too quickly.

I changed the tranny oil too and put in new Swepco 201. No idea how long it had been in there, but it had a really funny smell, looked like engine oil, and had a goldish foam on top of it.

As soon as they come I'll be swapping out the mounts and fitting the new linkage and firewall bushing.

Posted by: 396 Jul 3 2015, 03:34 AM

Its best to learn the basics on your shifter questions. If you had to take car in for every little concerned.
This 914 owner ship will turn upside-down really quick.
Labor rate for a 914 is the same as a 991.
Good luck

Posted by: rhodyguy Jul 3 2015, 03:04 PM

Try putting the trans into 2nd before 1st. Just like in an old beetle.

Posted by: john77 Jul 8 2015, 09:31 PM

Changed my transmission mounts over the weekend - it was as simple as everyone said. Really surprised how much it tightened up my shifter. I also changed the tranny oil. The old oil smelled very odd, who knows the last time it was changed.

My transmission was leaking pretty badly before I changed the oil, but now I have I can see blue traces from the new oil. The two main places seem to be where the side shifter arm enters the case and this part in the picture. What is this? It moves a lot if I grab it. Is there a way to stop these leaks without taking the transmission apart?

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/bahama68/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsiavbvzbx.jpg.html

Posted by: Harpo Jul 9 2015, 03:59 AM

The part with 90 degree bend closest to the lens is the speedo cable. This is a notorious place for the 901 trans to leak. McMark and Possibly 914 rubber makes a new/improved part with a second "O" ring that works great.

David

Posted by: john77 Jul 9 2015, 01:46 PM

Great, thanks David.