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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Are Special Bolts Needed for Exhaust
Posted by: 7TPorsh Jun 24 2015, 12:22 PM
I removed my sebring exhaust to change out the muffler. i noticed the exchanger to sebring bolts and nuts are overly corroded.
These are the bolts that connect the exchangers to the exhaust....not the head bolts.
Do I need anything special for these bolts? special material? I have seen copper nuts and such for the header end; but nothing specified for the muffler end.
i have new gaskets. thx
Posted by: Stitch914 Jun 24 2015, 12:42 PM
I removed my sebring exhaust to change out the muffler. i noticed the exchanger to sebring bolts and nuts are overly corroded.
These are the bolts that connect the exchangers to the exhaust....not the head bolts.
Do I need anything special for these bolts? special material? I have seen copper nuts and such for the header end; but nothing specified for the muffler end.
i have new gaskets. thx
I don't think "special" bolts are necessary for the exchanger-to-muffler interface, but if you want to avoid corroded (and unsightly) bolts in the future, you can do what I did and use stainless steel fasteners; some hardware stores actually carry a decent selection of metric SS fasteners, and I usually stock up on them whenever I need to buy some.
Posted by: relentless Jun 24 2015, 01:20 PM
Another tip is to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I use a copper anti-seize and it makes taking the bolts off a lot easier.
Posted by: SLITS Jun 24 2015, 01:51 PM
Another tip is to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I use a copper anti-seize and it makes taking the bolts off a lot easier.
Best ideaPosted by: 7TPorsh Jun 24 2015, 04:37 PM
Sounds good, thanks guys!
Posted by: Maltese Falcon Jun 28 2015, 06:35 PM
Gary
Try Allen Industrial Hardware on Burbank Bl., Burbank.
Henry is real good at sourcing the metric specialty studs.
Then check your PM !
Marty
Posted by: campbellcj Jun 28 2015, 06:42 PM
There is a special type of nut with a captive metal washer. I forget what they're officially called but I just grabbed some out of my storage unit. I have the opposite issue on my race car i.e., regular nuts work themselves loose so I'm gonna try the "correct" ones now.
Posted by: 7TPorsh Jun 29 2015, 09:54 AM
Well it looks like I fell victim to the "while I'm in there" syndrome.
Dropped these filthy things and now i don't think they will be going back on
yuck
few of the studs were loose . This one is in there pretty good. Looks like this one wasn't bolted down tight enough. Gotta get it out.
so new studs needed as well.
Posted by: rjames Jun 29 2015, 10:01 AM
Well it looks like I fell victim to the "while I'm in there" syndrome.
Dropped these filthy things and now i don't think they will be going back on
yuck
few of the studs were loose . This one is in there pretty good. Looks like this one wasn't bolted down tight enough. Gotta get it out.
so new studs needed as well.
Kind of looks like someone already did a helicoil or a timesert on the right side already.
Posted by: 7TPorsh Jun 29 2015, 10:34 AM
should that stud stay in there?
Posted by: The Cabinetmaker Jun 29 2015, 10:39 AM
The more you remove and reinstall the studs, the greater the chance of pulling the threads from the head.
Posted by: rjames Jun 29 2015, 12:30 PM
The more you remove and reinstall the studs, the greater the chance of pulling the threads from the head.
See if you can gently clean up the rusted threads on the stud that's still in there. Best not to remove it at all if it won't come out easily and if it still allows you to tighten the bolt to the right torque speck. Look up the torque speck and maybe tighten slightly below it to be on the safe side.
Posted by: Chris Pincetich Jun 29 2015, 12:48 PM
If the exhaust stud stays put, that's good! 
The ones that come out are trying to be "special bolts" 
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