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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ how do you pull a front fender off? (gently)

Posted by: BritCarJim Jul 5 2015, 08:21 PM

i've got rust between the scuttle and the PS front fender (which means it is probably in both) so i'm going to have to pull that fender. i can do "trial and error" but it is usually better to ask: how do you get that fender off? in the brit-car world i come from there are always a couple of hidden bolts in a couple of inaccessible places, thus its better to ask. folks?

(bonus pic from this afternoon....primer on the underside of the "new" front lid...the one that came with the car is FUBAR'd.)

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Posted by: mepstein Jul 5 2015, 08:26 PM

no bolts. it's all spot weldsd.

Posted by: BritCarJim Jul 5 2015, 08:34 PM

damnit. i was afraid you were going to say that. so, wire brush down there as far as possible and then POR-15 down the crevice or do i need to drill out spot welds...and how many are there and where?

Posted by: Mike Bellis Jul 5 2015, 08:37 PM

If you don't cut it out and fix it correctly with new metal, the rust will come back.

Posted by: BritCarJim Jul 5 2015, 08:39 PM

yeah, thats the way it works on my other cars, i figured the 'teener was the same.

Posted by: brant Jul 5 2015, 10:17 PM

Research spot weld drill bits

I preferred an air drill for the removal
There a lot of welds.
Not a small job

Posted by: mepstein Jul 6 2015, 06:00 AM

If your front fender is that bad, your probably dealing with a lot more rust in all the usual places. Post lots of pics and the the world collective will help you.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 6 2015, 09:05 AM

QUOTE(BritCarJim @ Jul 5 2015, 07:34 PM) *
do i need to drill out spot welds...and how many are there and where?


Yes, you do. And there are about 6 million of them, all along the edges of the panel. (At least, it will feel like 6 million by the time you get done drilling them or using a spot-weld cutter on them.)

--DD

Posted by: DirtyCossack Jul 6 2015, 09:50 AM

Totally off topic, but I love that Scout.

Posted by: green914 Jul 6 2015, 11:09 AM

Show us the type 3.

Posted by: Bob L. Jul 6 2015, 11:29 AM

QUOTE(DirtyCossack @ Jul 6 2015, 10:50 AM) *

Totally off topic, but I love that Scout.



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Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jul 6 2015, 11:51 AM

I used a sabre saw. sawzall-smiley.gif av-943.gif


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Posted by: mbseto Jul 6 2015, 12:21 PM

Man, this is my future. Is it really better to cut sections out of the fender rather than drill spot welds and take the whole thing off? I'm very concerned about my ability to weld it back so it looks right.

Posted by: Chris H. Jul 6 2015, 12:59 PM

QUOTE(mbseto @ Jul 6 2015, 01:21 PM) *

Man, this is my future. Is it really better to cut sections out of the fender rather than drill spot welds and take the whole thing off? I'm very concerned about my ability to weld it back so it looks right.


No it isn't. He put removable flares on that car which is why he cut the fenders that way. The old school spot weld way is the way to go to replace a fender. That's why he's av-943.gif .

Posted by: rgalla9146 Jul 6 2015, 08:08 PM

Cut the fender away as close to the spot welds as possible.
Then as you drill out the spot welds you will be removing a thin strip of metal, not a large, rigid, stubborn chunk.
If you are installing a used fender you'll have to do the same process removing the attached body remnants from the fender.

Posted by: BritCarJim Jul 6 2015, 09:59 PM

hmm. i think this car was hit in the front at some point so i don't know yet if i have a big problem on that fender or not. i am not naive about this but since it may be a replacement fender i am not assuming anything until i get a grinder with a flapper wheel and a drill with a wire-brush-wheel after it. i have done the spot-weld bit before. i come from the world of brit cars, remember? when i can get the nose of the teener in the garage and dig into that corner, i will see what i have.

i will stick up a pic of my '72 GT with bits off and spot welds drilled off.

i will also still up a pic showing the mystery car....the gray four door that you could see a bit of in the pic i put in the lead post...and which might look a bit like a type 3...is a 1963 MG Magnette IV. yes, it is a four door MG. it has the drive train out of the MGA II (4 cyl BMC B-series 1622, four speed, dual SU carbs--HD4s in the 1.5 inch, i think) though some bits of the clutch and brake hydraulics were unobtainium on these shores. she is a positive ground car. she is one of the projects i am working on now. i have her mechanically good enough to drive around the driveway though i have now pulled the carpet and am assessing the floorboards.

the Scout is a 1963 Scout 80. 4 cylinder 4WD. another project that followed me home. she has the character of a farm tractor and maxes out at 45 mph, but will do that straight up a phone pole in 4WD. it is a work in process like all of my cars...the biggest thing it needs is floorboards, but since they aren't structural, its no big deal. beer3.gif

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Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 7 2015, 06:31 PM

QUOTE(BritCarJim @ Jul 6 2015, 08:59 PM) *
i have done the spot-weld bit before. i come from the world of brit cars, remember?


Oh, I figured that those all bolted the body onto a wood frame.... wink.gif

--DD

Posted by: Old Yella Jul 7 2015, 08:20 PM

Is that blue car a Morris Oxford or a Worsley 28/40.

Posted by: beech4rd Jul 7 2015, 08:48 PM

If you read the posts above, you'll discover it's a MG Magnette. The cars you list and the Magnette were badge engineered BMC cars with design by PininFarina.

Posted by: BritCarJim Jul 11 2015, 08:42 PM

yeah, the T-series sportscars from after WW2 into the 1950s had wood in the bodies (on steel chassis) but after that...not so much. my driver is a '72 B GT (sportscar) and i have a '77 B ragtop but the 4 door cars have a certain allure as well. this being the MG version of the badge engineered car, it has the engine in MG tune and the MG badging and trim but truthfully, it carries the "sacred octagon," the MG symbol. very emotive for those of addicts.

now, having said that...i have this Porsche....which i think i can certainly learn to love...

Posted by: cpavlenko Jul 11 2015, 09:24 PM

QUOTE(BritCarJim @ Jul 6 2015, 08:59 PM) *

hmm. i think this car was hit in the front at some point so i don't know yet if i have a big problem on that fender or not. i am not naive about this but since it may be a replacement fender i am not assuming anything until i get a grinder with a flapper wheel and a drill with a wire-brush-wheel after it. i have done the spot-weld bit before. i come from the world of brit cars, remember? when i can get the nose of the teener in the garage and dig into that corner, i will see what i have.

i will stick up a pic of my '72 GT with bits off and spot welds drilled off.

i will also still up a pic showing the mystery car....the gray four door that you could see a bit of in the pic i put in the lead post...and which might look a bit like a type 3...is a 1963 MG Magnette IV. yes, it is a four door MG. it has the drive train out of the MGA II (4 cyl BMC B-series 1622, four speed, dual SU carbs--HD4s in the 1.5 inch, i think) though some bits of the clutch and brake hydraulics were unobtainium on these shores. she is a positive ground car. she is one of the projects i am working on now. i have her mechanically good enough to drive around the driveway though i have now pulled the carpet and am assessing the floorboards.

the Scout is a 1963 Scout 80. 4 cylinder 4WD. another project that followed me home. she has the character of a farm tractor and maxes out at 45 mph, but will do that straight up a phone pole in 4WD. it is a work in process like all of my cars...the biggest thing it needs is floorboards, but since they aren't structural, its no big deal. beer3.gif

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Is that a princess with a straight 6 healey looking motor?

Posted by: cpavlenko Jul 11 2015, 09:31 PM

Whoops, I got ahead of myself, a 4 door MG, very cool, kinda looks like a princess from the rear.

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