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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Finishing A 914-6 GT Conversion Project

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 3 2015, 10:29 PM

Bought This car in Nov 2013 and unfortunately it had to sit in my trailer until May of this year to get started on it. The picture is how the car looked the way I got it and how it came out of the trailer. Factory P/N steel flares, nice paint job, a not installed 3.0 close to ready to install, Oh, and an in process conversion. Just some cleaning and put it together and yes a lot of learning/ research. Because (a) I have never owned a 914. (b) never done an engine conversion (built a few). © never picked up where someone left off (you know how its easier to put something back together when you take it apart).

I got the "bug" from a friend who took me up the Ortega Hwy in his 6 conversion and I was hooked.

I decided to share my experiences with the "world" and hopefully along the way gain some insight. I have met some great 914 folks so far at swap meets and parts houses and everyone has been quite helpful. I will tell more of the story of what came with the car and what I have done so far as the days go by. Check in once in a while.


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Posted by: mgp4591 Aug 3 2015, 10:34 PM

Welcome to the money pit! Lots of good advice and great people here with almost all the info you'd need to succeed with you project but it looks like you've got it handled. Great looking car! Keep us up on your project and hope to see you at a function sometime! welcome.png

Posted by: jmitro Aug 3 2015, 10:55 PM

looks great so far; look forward to see more of this car!

Posted by: whitetwinturbo Aug 3 2015, 11:04 PM

wub.gif the "great" white ....... I'm sorting out the "great" pink:




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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 3 2015, 11:05 PM

Welcome to the money pit! Lots of good advice and great people here with almost all the info you'd need to succeed with you project but it looks like you've got it handled. Great looking car! Keep us up on your project and hope to see you at a function sometime!

Thanks, I forgot to mention there are the evil "electrical issues" and I am mechanical so you see the problem there.

Posted by: whitetwinturbo Aug 3 2015, 11:12 PM

............ I started a build thread "There goes the neighborhood" last month sawzall-smiley.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 3 2015, 11:17 PM

So as I have found so typical is the jack stand stage. This is the current state. Note the previous picture there were 993 seats and a red roll bar from the PO. Going to be looking for some racing seats and probably will not use the roll bar.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 3 2015, 11:20 PM

the "great" white ....... I'm sorting out the "great" pink:

Thanks I will check it out. Good luck on your project!

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Aug 3 2015, 11:50 PM

Good purchase of MoparRob's white 6/conversion project...it has the right stuff !
I met Rob at a Peterson cruise-in, he told me that my hot rod 6/conversion was an inspiration to build his white car. Better check that light ivory car, it might be an LE 914 biggrin.gif
Marty

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 12:07 AM

So where does one begin when you have never owned a 914 and the conversion in progress is a car that has not been on the road in 17 years. Yes that's right 17 years. With the car in the trailer I started research on which tires to get. Since the Car has Fuchs 16" 7's and 8's I chose Bridgestone 205/55/16 fronts and 225/50/16 rears. I had heard they may be discontinued so I got them and put them away. When I got access to the car the wheels came off and I debated reannodize and they just looked tired but they cleaned up! 17 years of oxodation on the paint came back to life with a lot of elbo grease. Check out the rims before and after.


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Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 4 2015, 06:22 AM

Terrific - Keep up the good work so you can get that bad boy on the road soon. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RobW Aug 4 2015, 07:23 AM

Everybody was wondering where that one went. Looking forward to seeing you on the road with it..... driving.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 09:38 AM

[quote name='Maltese Falcon' date='Aug 3 2015, 10:50 PM' post='2218484']
Good purchase of MoparRob's white 6/conversion project...it has the right stuff !
I met Rob at a Peterson cruise-in, he told me that my hot rod 6/conversion was an inspiration to build his white car. Better check that light ivory car, it might be an LE 914

Love to see your car since it was the inspiration. Yes it was Robs and has lots of the right stuff!

So I started to get to know the car and with all of its years of sitting. But apparently it had been on the road for a time after the fenders and complete paint job (wish there were pictures!) back in 1995. So I started in on the wheel wells which actually cleaned up pretty well. Here is the Rt Front.


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Posted by: eric9144 Aug 4 2015, 09:49 AM

Hey I'm right up the hill from you, hit me up if you need a hand or just want to admire the raw power of my /4 av-943.gif

Congratulations on the purchase, I was getting ready to pull the trigger on that car when it was up for sale but just couldn't part with my current 914 after so many years

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 10:15 AM

QUOTE(RobW @ Aug 4 2015, 06:23 AM) *

Everybody was wondering where that one went. Looking forward to seeing you on the road with it..... driving.gif


Yes a lot of people have recognized the car and I am going to try to do it right take my time and although it will never be concours it will be a nice car. Thanks

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 10:22 AM

[quote name='Maltese Falcon' date='Aug 3 2015, 10:50 PM' post='2218484']
Good purchase of MoparRob's white 6/conversion project...it has the right stuff !
I met Rob at a Peterson cruise-in, he told me that my hot rod 6/conversion was an inspiration to build his white car. Better check that light ivory car, it might be an LE 914 biggrin.gif

So now I learned from Maltese Falcon that since my car is a 74 and white it could possibly be a limited edition so I will have to check that out! Thanks Marty! Like to see your "hot rod 6/ conversion and meet you some time. Thanks!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 10:26 AM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Aug 4 2015, 08:49 AM) *

Hey I'm right up the hill from you, hit me up if you need a hand or just want to admire the raw power of my /4 av-943.gif

Congratulations on the purchase, I was getting ready to pull the trigger on that car when it was up for sale but just couldn't part with my current 914 after so many years


Like to see your car and I appreciate the offer. Being so close is great! I will PM you.
Funny you were looking at this car too! Thanks!!

Posted by: mepstein Aug 4 2015, 10:27 AM

It belonged to a guy named Rolland who had it running with a big 4. I almost bought that car.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 10:33 AM

On with cleaning and lerrning here is the left rear fender before and after pics of tedious nooks and crannies. The paint job was thorough and welll done with good prep. When this car was done in 1995 it had to be stunning! Because the paint for the most part is still really great! Even the wheel wells which I found impressive.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 10:54 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 4 2015, 09:27 AM) *

It belonged to a guy named Rolland who had it running with a big 4. I almost bought that car.


Have yet to talk with him he is not on world that I know of. I do know about him from the PO. So, you let it get away too! Thanks. Do you have any pictures of it from then? Thanks for looking!

Posted by: mepstein Aug 4 2015, 11:09 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 4 2015, 12:54 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 4 2015, 09:27 AM) *

It belonged to a guy named Rolland who had it running with a big 4. I almost bought that car.


Have yet to talk with him he is not on world that I know of. I do know about him from the PO. So, you let it get away too! Thanks. Do you have any pictures of it from then? Thanks for looking!

I have a pdf of the build/for sale ad somewhere. He was asking around 18k for the roller. I don't know the actual sale price. I remember it was very nice but distance from me made the sale more difficult. It sat in his garage for a couple years before the sale so it's been quite some time now. Glad to see its getting built. I don't think Rolland has been on world for years

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 11:35 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 4 2015, 10:09 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 4 2015, 12:54 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 4 2015, 09:27 AM) *

It belonged to a guy named Rolland who had it running with a big 4. I almost bought that car.


Have yet to talk with him he is not on world that I know of. I do know about him from the PO. So, you let it get away too! Thanks. Do you have any pictures of it from then? Thanks for looking!

I have a pdf of the build/for sale ad somewhere. He was asking around 18k for the roller. I don't know the actual sale price. I remember it was very nice but distance from me made the sale more difficult. It sat in his garage for a couple years before the sale so it's been quite some time now. Glad to see its getting built. I don't think Rolland has been on world for years

That would be amazing if you could come up with any info from back then. Appreciate it that when you get a chance you could find it. History is always good. Thanks for the response!

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 4 2015, 11:44 AM

here is a shot of the cushions/wire protectors i pm'ed you about.


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Posted by: Maltese Falcon Aug 4 2015, 01:16 PM

Lucky9146,
Here is one angle of my '74.
Photo credit; Marco Gerace "Excellence" mag.
Is that white car running yet ? biggrin.gif Attached Image

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 01:21 PM

QUOTE(Maltese Falcon @ Aug 4 2015, 12:16 PM) *

Lucky9146,
Here is one angle of my '74.
Photo credit; Marco Gerace "Excellence" mag.
Is that white car running yet ? biggrin.gif Attached Image


Nice car! Sinister looking. No not quite yet! Thanks for the pic take care

Posted by: lonewolfe Aug 4 2015, 01:23 PM

I'm going to enjoy following this thread! What an awesome car to begin your project with! Your starting point is light years ahead of mine!

Posted by: pete000 Aug 4 2015, 04:00 PM

I don't know what it is, but I think there is a certain beauty in seeing the 914 up on stands without wheels, just seems like a natural state...Ha ha !

Here is mine right now...


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Posted by: KELTY360 Aug 4 2015, 04:26 PM

Unlike a lot of guys here, I wasn't in line to buy the car, but I certainly understand the inspiration. I had a new '73 1.7 and the Ortega Hwy was one of the roads I'd go work out on. Lived in Fullerton so it was nice to make a big loop over the top and into Lk. Elsinore. But, most of the time, once I got down there I'd make at least a couple of runs over the top and back. That road is a blast in either direction; or at least it was back in the day. I think it was made for 914s.

Congratulations on the car, now, get that thing off jack stands before it gets used to it. poke.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 4 2015, 04:43 PM

Hi Pete - I generally do not like the Porsche graphic down the side of the car, but on your car it looks perfect. Love the car.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 04:52 PM

This car came with some really nice parts! Some it already had. Some purchased by the PO for the conversion. The PO did his homeowrk and it is going to take some time but I will show you a lot of what came with the car.

First pictured is the engine which is a 1979 3.0 with 39mm port heads, chain tensioners, turbo valve covers with fins trimmed to clear trailing arms then powder coated. A Jerry Woods complete distributor rebuild/ re-curve, MSD Blaster high vibration coil, Magnecor Spark Plug wires, new plugs. Valve clearances set. Dual Weber 40 IDA 3C carbs/manifolds/linkage, completely rebuilt and bench tested by Paul at Performance Oriented. Intake manifolds are glass beaded, port matched to the heads, new gaskets and phenolic spacers. New K&N Filters and powder coated rain hats. Note the cad plating and front mount installed. Yes this is how I got the engine!!!!!

Next is the PO installed Rich Johnson engine conversion mount pictured and it is both bolted and welded.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 4 2015, 04:55 PM

[quote name='pete000' date='Aug 4 2015, 03:00 PM' post='2218769']
I don't know what it is, but I think there is a certain beauty in seeing the 914 up on stands without wheels, just seems like a natural state...Ha ha !

Here is mine right now...

Nice! I like the paint! and the stripe! Thanks for looking

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 5 2015, 07:25 AM

the shift rod bushing looks a little spent.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 5 2015, 09:12 AM

So I decided to run the oil hoses from the front trunk oil cooler back to the engine compartment through the passenger heater tube. A slick idea from the PO but I have to admit I was concerned they would actually fit as the hoses came made up with AN 12 fittings already on. The short story is it worked! I made numerous attempts trying different approaches wanting to avoid removing the fittings. Pictures will show that I filed the the sharp edges of the B nuts, purist will shudder, but they were actually cutting the duct tape as they came through the long tube being pulled by garden hose. In the heat of the moment and the sweat of the fun I neglected to take in process pictures (just imagine duct tape around the two hoses). The final approach was one at a time and you HAVE to have a another person to push as you pull. It really does look cool though! The upsides are; no cutting of holes in fenders, no external lines, very clean look when done. Downsides are; no heater, filing the B nut edges, modifying the heater tube just inside the engine compartment, and worst of all modifying the gas tank because the hose does not fit past the flange on the side of the tank! It is a nicely powder coated tank too. Have started modifying the tank by dimpling the side but the flange will need to be removed. More on that to follow.....


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 5 2015, 09:51 AM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 5 2015, 06:25 AM) *

the shift rod bushing looks a little spent.


Like your keen eye, keep 'em coming, I am always looking for one more little part. I'll add this to the list! Thanks.

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 5 2015, 10:00 AM

do em all. the complete 'kit' from pelican is swell.

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 5 2015, 10:41 AM

in this picture the top is the throttle cable. the bottom is the clutch. the large one to the right of them is the speedo. you seem to be missing something.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 5 2015, 11:09 AM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 5 2015, 09:41 AM) *

in this picture the top is the throttle cable. the bottom is the clutch. the large one to the right of them is the speedo. you seem to be missing something.


Thanks rhodyguy for responding to my PM with the picture of your cables. I was trying to figure out which tube the accelerator cable went through since the car came with out the cable. In my picture the PO welded flat washers as back stops for the center e-brake just left of the cables, and I like the idea. So on mine the clutch is on the left, the speedo goes through the larger opening up to the right and the speedo tube must be where I have the safety wire hanging out of. Note PO ran fuel line next to Clutch hole. Mine is a 74 what year is yours? Thanks again


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Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 5 2015, 11:41 AM

73'

Posted by: Larmo63 Aug 5 2015, 12:19 PM

Great looking engine!!! pray.gif

I think we could almost have a separate thread area here on World just for /6 conversions and talk….

Andy? rolleyes.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 12:22 AM

One of the things I have completed is the rear bumper. The car came with a nicely pianted (black) later style rear bumper. The PO was going down the path of black bumpers front and rear. So the car also came wih a fiberglass GT front bumper and matching lower fiberglass valance with the cut out for the cooler.

I really wanted chrome bumpers front and back so I proceded to find a nice early rear and get it chromed. Finding good local chrome shop in San Diego is the challange. I found Escondido Plating and Don does triple chrome great quality for a reasonable price. Also note I bought the new gold 914-6 script and new bumper top.

The front bumper is in work now and another story but it will be steel and chrome.


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Posted by: lonewolfe Aug 6 2015, 12:50 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 5 2015, 11:22 PM) *

One of the things I have completed is the rear bumper. The car came with a nicely pianted (black) later style rear bumper. The PO was going down the path of black bumpers front and rear. So the car also came wih a fiberglass GT front bumper and matching lower fiberglass valance with the cut out for the cooler.

I really wanted chrome bumpers front and back so I proceded to find a nice early rear and get it chromed. Finding good local chrome shop in San Diego is the challange. I found Escondido Plating and Don does triple chrome great quality for a reasonable price. Also note I bought the new gold 914-6 script and new bumper top.

The front bumper is in work now and another story but it will be steel and chrome.


Did the bumper have any dent repairs? What did they charge for the work?

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 09:10 AM

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Aug 5 2015, 11:50 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 5 2015, 11:22 PM) *

One of the things I have completed is the rear bumper. The car came with a nicely pianted (black) later style rear bumper. The PO was going down the path of black bumpers front and rear. So the car also came wih a fiberglass GT front bumper and matching lower fiberglass valance with the cut out for the cooler.

I really wanted chrome bumpers front and back so I proceded to find a nice early rear and get it chromed. Finding good local chrome shop in San Diego is the challange. I found Escondido Plating and Don does triple chrome great quality for a reasonable price. Also note I bought the new gold 914-6 script and new bumper top.

The front bumper is in work now and another story but it will be steel and chrome.


Did the bumper have any dent repairs? What did they charge for the work?


The bumper did have one small dent and the total was $350 which I thought was reasonable for a local So Cal shop.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 09:33 AM

So now I learned from Maltese Falcon that since my car is a 74 and white it could possibly be a limited edition so I will have to check that out! Thanks Marty! Like to see your "hot rod 6/ conversion and meet you some time. Thanks!
[/quote]

On Monday I learned the car could be an LE = Limited Edition. I learned that Jeff Bowlsby has a website with an enormous amount of info in case any of you have never seen it.

It was worth the learning experience but unfortunately my car it is not an LE although it was manufactured within the time frame they were made.

http://bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 6 2015, 09:47 AM

in your favor it's not an LE. then you would have to undo everything to make it 'correct' for any real collectibility $.

Posted by: mepstein Aug 6 2015, 09:49 AM

[quote name='Lucky9146' date='Aug 6 2015, 11:33 AM' post='2219620']
So now I learned from Maltese Falcon that since my car is a 74 and white it could possibly be a limited edition so I will have to check that out! Thanks Marty! Like to see your "hot rod 6/ conversion and meet you some time. Thanks!
[/quote]

On Monday I learned the car could be an LE = Limited Edition. I learned that Jeff Bowlsby has a website with an enormous amount of info in case any of you have never seen it.

It was worth the learning experience but unfortunately my car it is not an LE although it was manufactured within the time frame they were made.

http://bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/
[/quote]
Would it really matter? It's been highly modified from stock - in a good way smile.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 11:02 AM

Thought I would share some history of the car at least what I know. I only have history back to 1990. Prior to that it was to my understanding a CA car. In Aug 1990 it was purchased and went to WA where he owned it until 2010. So in 1990 there began a complete restoration through Jan 1995. No Pictures Darn! As I understand it when the car was completed in Jan 1995 with a super built 4 cyl., it was driven a short time, then something happened, and the car sat until being sold in 2010. During that time the engine was removed and apparently sold. So the main things done to the car by that earlier owner in a complete restoration, besides the previously mentioned paint job and top notch addition of factory P/N flares is:

Koni adjustables, Sport spring kit, Turbo tie rod kit, Cross drilled rotors
911 SC struts. 5 lug conversion, SC brakes, 914-6 half shaft adapters
Boxed trailing arms, Automotion chassis siffening kit, batt tray,
Weltmeister 22m front and rear sway bar, Weltmeister short shift kit
GT rockers, Gt spoiler, GT engine lid
Tweeks rubber kit, 944 mirrors, custom door panels
Fuchs 16" 7 and 8's, MOMO steering wheel & shift knob
And thousands in powder coat, Cad, bushings, misc, and hunderds upon hundreds of new parts, many of which were dealer bought. I actually have a list of all done. It has been off the road to my undersatanding from sometime between 1995 and 1998.
In 2010 my PO bought the car and had it until Nov 2103 when I got it.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 05:13 PM

Pictures of front trunk as received. Louver was installed. Bracket had been added for compact spare tire mount. The oil cooler was mounted and I will cover that and the oil cooler shroud in more detail shortly. Note the PO added same size holes matching and between the original holes on the front for the oil cooler intake.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 05:19 PM

Minimal rust was treated with Pour 15, louver was sealed from top and bottom, and trunk painted.


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Posted by: lonewolfe Aug 6 2015, 05:22 PM

I like how the spare tire mount was added for a space saver spare. Is that the fuel pump mounted on that same firewall? I'm pretty sure it is but what is the other device? Is that a giant fuel filter? I've not seen one like that before if that's what that is. Did you weld in that louvered panel?

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 05:32 PM

Front carpet reinstalled. Under front louver sealed and undercoated.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 05:53 PM

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Aug 6 2015, 04:22 PM) *

I like how the spare tire mount was added for a space saver spare. Is that the fuel pump mounted on that same firewall? I'm pretty sure it is but what is the other device? Is that a giant fuel filter? I've not seen one like that before if that's what that is. Did you weld in that louvered panel?


PO gets credit for the compact spare tire mount and it is nicely done. Yes that is a Holly 120 fuel pump on left and unfortunately I have no info on the fuel filter on the right but I believe it is a Holly as well, both done with AN 6 tube and fittings to engine compartment by PO. Yes the louver panel was spot welded in hence the sealing by me. I tried to find the filter on line but could not find it, there are no markings on it.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 06:14 PM

Have been looking for months for the cir-clip that hold the rear roof latch on the shaft that it rides on. Found it at Marshalls Hardware, huge selection of parts. San Diego Off Miramar Rd. Like I always say the devil is in the details.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 10:47 PM

Engine compartment insulation was not installed when I got the car but the original insulation did come loose with the car but it was very tired. Also, it had a lot of extraneous holes in it so I used it for a template. Found some foil backed heat shield at ORW = Off Road Warehouse made by Competition Specialities (about $50). It worked well fitting it and glueing it in, mostly scissor work. Still need to do the back side of the access panel from the passenger compartment.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 6 2015, 10:50 PM

Insulation Installed


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 8 2015, 12:29 AM

To continue on with the front trunk, oil cooler, and shroud. It should be noted that I started a thread "Mazda RX7 Oil Cooler Flow" to try to figure out in fact which way the oil should flow or if it really mattered. That thread has taken on a life of is own and I will try not to duplicate here. In fact that post preceded this thread because through that thread I decided I would share my experience of taking over a project started by someone else to complete it. The PO fabricated a bracket for the oil cooler and fans and it is the support for the shroud. Pictured


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 8 2015, 12:41 AM

The PO installed oil cooler and card board mock up shroud. It is my understanding the Mazda cooler is wider making it harder to just buy a shroud.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 8 2015, 01:09 AM

So I started with the mock up and some spare galvanized sheet metal. It would take a total 5 brake bends to shape the top piece and then cut to fit the two sides. Note it is much more difficult to cut the metal to contour the trunk than cardboard but with careful trial fits it works. I located a local metal fabricator for the first 5 bends which are the one main bend across the top and then the 4 flaps which would attach to the sides. Fabricator charged $20.00 which seemed fair as a walk in customer. Rivits $6.50 Depot. Finally, 9 feet of Trim Lok edge protector $11.50 which also serves as additonal contour to the floor. Total cost $38.00 One last bend was done at the back to allow a clamping flange. Three bolts through the top to the cooler bracket bold it firmly in place and camps have yet to be completed.


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Posted by: mepstein Aug 8 2015, 06:57 AM

Very nicely done!

Posted by: RobW Aug 8 2015, 07:08 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 8 2015, 05:57 AM) *

Very nicely done!

agree.gif agree.gif
Very nice!

Posted by: SLITS Aug 8 2015, 07:31 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 6 2015, 04:53 PM) *

unfortunately I have no info on the fuel filter on the right but I believe it is a Holly as well


The fuel filter is a Fram HPG1. We used their remote filter bases for both oil and fuel on the race cars. You can find them at JEGS and Amazon.

Posted by: earossi Aug 8 2015, 08:26 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 6 2015, 10:10 AM) *

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Aug 5 2015, 11:50 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 5 2015, 11:22 PM) *

One of the things I have completed is the rear bumper. The car came with a nicely pianted (black) later style rear bumper. The PO was going down the path of black bumpers front and rear. So the car also came wih a fiberglass GT front bumper and matching lower fiberglass valance with the cut out for the cooler.

I really wanted chrome bumpers front and back so I proceded to find a nice early rear and get it chromed. Finding good local chrome shop in San Diego is the challange. I found Escondido Plating and Don does triple chrome great quality for a reasonable price. Also note I bought the new gold 914-6 script and new bumper top.

The front bumper is in work now and another story but it will be steel and chrome.


Did the bumper have any dent repairs? What did they charge for the work?


The bumper did have one small dent and the total was $350 which I thought was reasonable for a local So Cal shop.




I got my bumpers triple plate chromed out in Salt Lake City. Both bumpers came in at a little over $700 in total. Sourcing the old bumpers was another $800; so, it's about a $1500+ mod to do it right. But, mine came out great and I would gladly spend the money on another set if I were doing another car. But, you do need to get them triple plated, meaning that a copper strike is first plated onto the bumpers. The copper will fill minor imperfections (such as corrosion pitting) and can then be sanded smooth by the plater before moving on to the nickle and chrome strikes.

Most shops just do a coat of nickle followed by chrome, which allows any pitting to show through the plating.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 9 2015, 11:49 AM

The real elephant in the room for me is the wiring for and under the dash. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, mechanically I am ok but electrical not so much. I have spent countless hours under the dash so far tracking and identifying wires from the fuse panel making some headway. Bought diagram's from Prosperos Garage and if you haven't seen them they are done very well and reasonably priced about $20. There is a lot of extraneous wires from a major bundle that were cut cut to the gone console, wires for a stereo, wires from some sort of long gone alarm system, wires to the electric and heated mirrors, and wires that used to go to the 4 cylinder engine for something(?). Add to that the PO found a 6 cyl tach (no year identified) and a really cool quad guage made both yet to be installed and challenges for both. PO bought and included small aux fuse box intended for the oil cooler fans, electric fuel pump, and whatever else. PO also included and intended to change the old main fuse panel to the modern fuses. Don;t get me wrong I think the harness is OK I think it worked but after reading a post the other day from a guy who fried his wires TWICE! I am just a bit skiddish. First the dash current state.




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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 9 2015, 12:04 PM

The Tach is a 911 641 303 03 which is for a 78-83 so appears appropriate for my 79 engine. It was rebuilt by North Hollywood Speedometer. One difference on the Tach from the 4 cyl (that I do not have to actually look at) is that the 4 cyl had a single turn signal light that blinked whether you turn left or right (just like an old VW) and now the the 6 cyl tach has two seperate bulb locations for left and right so of course the wiring does not support that. Delima #one just hook up two bulbs and let them both blink when turing or figure out where to bring wires up for true left and right blinking? Dunno.


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 9 2015, 12:23 PM

Next up is the very cool quad guage custom built for PO by New Vintage Guages in Detroit MI. It has Oil Press, Temp, Fuel, Volts. Actually it also has 4 warning lights as well. I have a buddy with a 914-6 clone who wants to kill me for it and get rid of his console, so I get why the console is gone. Much better to look at the quad guage than down at the console. As mentioned in the recent "elephant in the room post" this car had a console with gages (all gone) and a wad of cut wires that went to it. So I have figured out some from the console for the quad guage but now with the 6 conversion and different sending units it is a stretch to figure out what goes to what and this is where the wiring diagram falls apart.

Oh, and forgot to mention engine came with PO installed Perry Kiel 914-6 engine conversion wiring harness which is very nice and clean and marked.


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Posted by: porschetub Aug 9 2015, 12:46 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 10 2015, 05:49 AM) *

The real elephant in the room for me is the wiring for and under the dash. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, mechanically I am ok but electrical not so much. I have spent countless hours under the dash so far tracking and identifying wires from the fuse panel making some headway. Bought diagram's from Prosperos Garage and if you haven't seen them they are done very well and reasonably priced about $20. There is a lot of extraneous wires from a major bundle that were cut cut to the gone console, wires for a stereo, wires from some sort of long gone alarm system, wires to the electric and heated mirrors, and wires that used to go to the 4 cylinder engine for something(?). Add to that the PO found a 6 cyl tach (no year identified) and a really cool quad guage made both yet to be installed and challenges for both. PO bought and included small aux fuse box intended for the oil cooler fans, electric fuel pump, and whatever else. PO also included and intended to change the old main fuse panel to the modern fuses. Don;t get me wrong I think the harness is OK I think it worked but after reading a post the other day from a guy who fried his wires TWICE! I am just a bit skiddish. First the dash current state.


I can't help but laugh @ your comments ,I'am doing the exact same job as you right now,PO had just popped the gauges in the dash on my car the only thing hooked up was the speedo cable sad.gif .
My combo gauge is a 77 911 one and I have standalone fuel gauge already wired in the dash,its certainly a lot of wires to play with,I spent an hour and marked them all from the Bowlby diagram,like me you will have to run extra wires for earths and backlighting etc for the combo gauge.
I will watch and maybe learnt from your mistakes/success biggrin.gif biggrin.gif ,as it sounds like we both share the same electrical skills,cheers.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 9 2015, 01:13 PM

I can't help but laugh @ your comments ,I'am doing the exact same job as you right now,PO had just popped the gauges in the dash on my car the only thing hooked up was the speedo cable sad.gif .
My combo gauge is a 77 911 one and I have standalone fuel gauge already wired in the dash,its certainly a lot of wires to play with,I spent an hour and marked them all from the Bowlby diagram,like me you will have to run extra wires for earths and backlighting etc for the combo gauge.
I will watch and maybe learnt from your mistakes/success biggrin.gif biggrin.gif ,as it sounds like we both share the same electrical skills,cheers.
[/quote]

Response above shows misery loves company and I wish you luck too! BTW my speedo was the only guage hooked up too. Ha ha. But your comment promted me to go back and look at my stuff I found a note from boxster fan back in June, early when I was trying to sort things out and still am! He provided the following tip which some may find helpful on Bowlsby he referred to.

boxsterfan
914 relays, Jun 14 2015, 09:28 PM
914's are kewl
Group: Members
Posts: 1,282
Member No.: 791
Joined: 6-June 03

Here is info in the wiring for under the passenger seat.

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Elect_R...ltInterlock.jpg

Other stuff on Bowlsby's site also:
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

boxsterfan
1974 2.0L

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 9 2015, 01:37 PM

The "elephant in the room" continues by adding to the wiring "opportunity" with the concept of an aux fuse box furnished by the PO to handle the new electric fuel pump, and oil cooler fans as well as whatever else. PO had some great concepts which I agree with but looking for ideas on best location to put it aux fuse box and how to wire it in for my application. Kit form with all the afore mentioned is a lot!

Along with that is the the PO idea of converting to modern day fuses with a furnished brand new fuse panel. Thinking I need to just get it running first with old fuse panel and not add any more complexity to the issue. This is JWest clone made by Engman I believe.

Pro's Con's suggestions are welcome.


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Posted by: Mike Bellis Aug 9 2015, 10:03 PM

Your other thread sent me here... There should be a link in the other thread... dry.gif

I just did this work today For RobW. I can't really help over the internet but if you were closer, I could have it sorted out in a few days...

I speak wires...

Posted by: porschetub Aug 12 2015, 02:05 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 10 2015, 07:37 AM) *

The "elephant in the room" continues by adding to the wiring "opportunity" with the concept of an aux fuse box furnished by the PO to handle the new electric fuel pump, and oil cooler fans as well as whatever else. PO had some great concepts which I agree with but looking for ideas on best location to put it aux fuse box and how to wire it in for my application. Kit form with all the afore mentioned is a lot!

Along with that is the the PO idea of converting to modern day fuses with a furnished brand new fuse panel. Thinking I need to just get it running first with old fuse panel and not add any more complexity to the issue. This is JWest clone made by Engman I believe.

Pro's Con's suggestions are welcome.


Since you have the fuseboard put it in ,they seem to get good press,however I would leave it till later as you suggested.
Did you find your other indicator switch lamp wire?my missing one was tucked down the far left hand side near the headlight switch wiring,I think it was a black/green or similar this one is for the RH side.
Have you a wire for your oil pressure gauge? I foolishly run new wiring into the engine space and forgot this one....bugger.
In regards to your aux fuse box,i think they are a good idea,I ran a new 30amp rated cable for future amp and others devices and have a nice little 4 fuse block I intent to tuck up under the dash.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 17 2015, 11:27 AM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Aug 12 2015, 01:05 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 10 2015, 07:37 AM) *

The "elephant in the room" continues by adding to the wiring "opportunity" with the concept of an aux fuse box furnished by the PO to handle the new electric fuel pump, and oil cooler fans as well as whatever else. PO had some great concepts which I agree with but looking for ideas on best location to put it aux fuse box and how to wire it in for my application. Kit form with all the afore mentioned is a lot!

Along with that is the the PO idea of converting to modern day fuses with a furnished brand new fuse panel. Thinking I need to just get it running first with old fuse panel and not add any more complexity to the issue. This is JWest clone made by Engman I believe.

Pro's Con's suggestions are welcome.


Since you have the fuseboard put it in ,they seem to get good press,however I would leave it till later as you suggested.
Did you find your other indicator switch lamp wire?my missing one was tucked down the far left hand side near the headlight switch wiring,I think it was a black/green or similar this one is for the RH side.
Have you a wire for your oil pressure gauge? I foolishly run new wiring into the engine space and forgot this one....bugger.
In regards to your aux fuse box,i think they are a good idea,I ran a new 30amp rated cable for future amp and others devices and have a nice little 4 fuse block I intent to tuck up under the dash.


Thanks porschetub for the reply I was out of town with no access to computer. I will look for the other turn wire that would be cool if there. No have not tried running new wiring at all yet. Still hoping for more input. Just returned from Laguna Seca Races and the Works Reunion amazing time I highly recommend it. Monterey Penunisula is beautiful.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 22 2015, 10:07 AM

It is my understanding that from '73 up the vehicles had the wiring harness for the center console regardless of whether the console was installed or not. There was connector just forward of the shifter in the main loom that runs in the center tunnel. It not only provided for the wires from the sender, but power to the gauge lighting and grounds. I this picture shows the connector but it is behind the shifter? The wiring for the PO removed console in my car did not come from here but came from elsewhere.



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Posted by: mepstein Aug 22 2015, 10:38 AM

99% sure those connectors plug into a seperate (small) wire loom in the center console.

and yes, the mid and late year cars came with the connections reguardless if it had a console or not.

Posted by: tp_reading Aug 22 2015, 01:36 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 22 2015, 05:07 PM) *

It is my understanding that from '73 up the vehicles had the wiring harness for the center console regardless of whether the console was installed or not. There was connector just forward of the shifter in the main loom that runs in the center tunnel. It not only provided for the wires from the sender, but power to the gauge lighting and grounds. I this picture shows the connector but it is behind the shifter? The wiring for the PO removed console in my car did not come from here but came from elsewhere.

Hi, interested to see from this pic that you have a parking brake lever situated centrally. I have 930 discs on the back, and hence no parking brake. Any info on your set up would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Tony

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 22 2015, 09:14 PM

QUOTE(tp_reading @ Aug 22 2015, 12:36 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 22 2015, 05:07 PM) *

It is my understanding that from '73 up the vehicles had the wiring harness for the center console regardless of whether the console was installed or not. There was connector just forward of the shifter in the main loom that runs in the center tunnel. It not only provided for the wires from the sender, but power to the gauge lighting and grounds. I this picture shows the connector but it is behind the shifter? The wiring for the PO removed console in my car did not come from here but came from elsewhere.

Hi, interested to see from this pic that you have a parking brake lever situated centrally. I have 930 discs on the back, and hence no parking brake. Any info on your set up would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Tony

Tony,
Good eye! Afraid its a good news bads news scenario. I picked up on this car where someone else left off and that PO= Previous Owner installed the console e-brake. I love the idea btw. It has yet to be hooked up and he had custom cables made to boot. He later found a post of a much nicer setup that someone else had done using standard cables that when he saw it he liked it better and wished he had done it, but he felt pretty comitted with welded in nuts and all already. And so I went looking and found the link for you of the better set up. Hope this helps! Let me know if link does not work and I will try again. I can show more pictures if you like of mine but it is not yet proven. So if I had it to do from scratch I would probaby go with the better set up.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...6791&st=380

Take care
Update I can't get the link to work sorry but the guy who posted it was Jeff Hail search him out and the post was Feb 2011

Posted by: SLITS Aug 23 2015, 07:18 AM

You found the center console connectors. Sent a PM with info.

Posted by: tp_reading Aug 23 2015, 07:23 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 23 2015, 04:14 AM) *

QUOTE(tp_reading @ Aug 22 2015, 12:36 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 22 2015, 05:07 PM) *

It is my understanding that from '73 up the vehicles had the wiring harness for the center console regardless of whether the console was installed or not. There was connector just forward of the shifter in the main loom that runs in the center tunnel. It not only provided for the wires from the sender, but power to the gauge lighting and grounds. I this picture shows the connector but it is behind the shifter? The wiring for the PO removed console in my car did not come from here but came from elsewhere.

Hi, interested to see from this pic that you have a parking brake lever situated centrally. I have 930 discs on the back, and hence no parking brake. Any info on your set up would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Tony

Tony,
Good eye! Afraid its a good news bads news scenario. I picked up on this car where someone else left off and that PO= Previous Owner installed the console e-brake. I love the idea btw. It has yet to be hooked up and he had custom cables made to boot. He later found a post of a much nicer setup that someone else had done using standard cables that when he saw it he liked it better and wished he had done it, but he felt pretty comitted with welded in nuts and all already. And so I went looking and found the link for you of the better set up. Hope this helps! Let me know if link does not work and I will try again. I can show more pictures if you like of mine but it is not yet proven. So if I had it to do from scratch I would probaby go with the better set up.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...6791&st=380

Take care
Update I can't get the link to work sorry but the guy who posted it was Jeff Hail search him out and the post was Feb 2011

Thanks for the info. I am off to gather the bits that I need !

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 24 2015, 01:19 PM

Anybody with a 74 take a look at my newly installed oil tank area. What a pain but the tank is in. A lot of "trial fits" but done. There is a strut on my car for the engine lid but it looks like the strut mount/ bracket is suppose to do a lot more by the looks of it. I don't know. Anyway the upper most corner of the bracket is in the way of installing the oil filter. The strut itself will clear it is just the upper corner of the bracket is in the way. Did you have to cut or modify this mount/ bracket thing to get the oil filter to fit?



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Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 24 2015, 01:21 PM

Pm sent.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 24 2015, 02:10 PM

So learn as you go. Seems the lower bracket for my GT lid strut is affixed to an aux fan mount. Interesting. Strut works ok! Modified said bracket thanks Rhodyguy for the info.

Posted by: OllieG Aug 28 2015, 03:10 AM

I wasn't sure what that bracket on mine was for either - I figured it was something a six wouldn't need and I hadn't seen it on other conversions so I just lopped it off!…so it was an aux fan mount, hmm.

Nice job with the oil tank btw.. smile.gif

Posted by: R8CERX Aug 28 2015, 08:53 PM

Jim
Link to the seats you were looking for...

anyone here has had experience with these type of seats? (914 type)

here is the link:

http://www.exoticcarseats.com/


Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 29 2015, 10:25 PM

My last post was mid August so it has been very slow with mostly wiring. And lots of it.

But before I get to that, I did carpet the back interior wall and access cover.

The first of the wiring challenge was locating and installing the MSD in the trunk. Wiring the MSD in, coupled with the engine conversion wiring Harness from Perry Kiehl, proved to be quite the challenge. For me anyway. Have to say that Perry Kiehl was extremely helpful in getting through it. Especially so, since I did not buy it from him directly, the PO did and Perry really came through to help out. I made a aluminum mounting plate as seen in the picture to adapt to the trunk forward wall.

Had to modify the Gas tank to make room for the oil cooler lines heading to the longitudinal as mentioned earlier. Local radiator shop did excellent work and resealed the tank as well. Thought it was going to take more modification than it did mostly cutting the flange off and a small indentation provided enough room.

Also carpeted the wall in the front trunk.

Much more wiring in the next post.



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Posted by: bcheney Oct 29 2015, 10:41 PM

You're doing some nice work. Keep up the momentum and you'll be done before you know it. I remember seeing this car for sale...it is a nice project with many great parts. All the best to ya and I will continue to watch your progress piratenanner.gif

Posted by: whitetwinturbo Oct 30 2015, 10:24 AM

Gas tank looks REALLY nice stirthepot.gif

Posted by: jkb944t Nov 4 2015, 06:39 AM

This is some awesome work!

Jeff B

Posted by: Lucky9146 Nov 4 2015, 10:47 AM

Thanks to those who responded to my last post with encouraging feedback.

The engine compartment is all wired now and very cleaned up looking. I like how it came out. Hid the wires to the original fuel pump and also hid the wires to the blower, ran the new wire for the oil temp in eng compartment too. Still want to keep my options open as far as putting the engine in, so holding off for now. Looking to still add a starter relay.

Quad gage wiring completed recently. What a challenge that was! It is actually a quad gage with 4 warning lights, pretty slick. 4 days invested here on this alone. Lots of calls to New Vintage Gage in Detroit. Ben was very helpful. Again, the gage was not purchased by me directly, it was puchased by the PO. So Ben went above and beyond to help sort out a gage they sold about 4 years ago. Pretty cool. Had to run several new wires replacing wires and additional wires. Also thanks to Matt at CPR and Dave Walker toolguy.


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Posted by: whitetwinturbo Nov 4 2015, 11:22 AM

Cool gauge! beer.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Nov 4 2015, 11:43 AM

Put power to the chassis recently for the first time since I have owned the car! This car has not seen power in 18 years!!! Matt at CPR suggested a good systematic approach to applying power for the first time. No fuses blew, no melted wires and a lot worked, some not so much. Had some burned out bulbs, bad ground, and normal stuff. The reason I had not put power to the chassis is there were a bunch of extraneous wires to figure out, sort out, and rip out. Plus there were a couple of previously burned/ blistered wires to replace. (picture) Thanks dlewis for the box of 914 wires to use. Also read here on world from a guy who burned his harness not once but twice, freaked me out. It is nice to see head lights, running lights, gage lights, flashers, horn, wipers, fog lights, and turn signals. Still bugs to work out like parking brake light, and interior light. I even got the radio and power antenna working!

This car originally being a 4 cyl had the single bulb blinker in the tach. With the 6 cyl tach it actually has a left and right. I needed to run wires from the flasher area the grn/blk right turn and grey/ blk left turn. Now the white/blue original wire for single turn signal is now not used!?? oh well. I have correct turn signals now on the 6 cyl tach!!! Blink normal and everything!!! There is hope for me yet. (Disclaimer: It didn’t work first time). Wiring diagrams from Dave Walker toolguy sure helped.

Next focus was wiring on the oil cooler fans and fuel pump. I finally get it! Thanks to Dave Walker toolguy I finally do get it how the wiring is suppose to work with a relay. So re-did the wiring to the fans because I thought it could look way better (before and after pictures) Want to use the small 4 fuse block and took the in line fuse previously installed for the fans and moved it to a small fuse / relay panel. It will be so much easier to see on that little fuse block than bundled up in a wiring harness under the oil cooler shroud.

Used Porsche relays on the panel since I had the bases (thanks dlewis) and relays so made a fuse box/ relay tray out of aluminum, toolguy helped me out with his slick machine shop in punching and bending the alum panel. The 4 fuse panel has a fuse for the fans and fuse for the fuel pump with 2 empty fuse positions for anything future. Note that the fan had its own relay so that is still located on the fan frame. Also I left myself a spare relay base on the panel to potentially run a relay for the headlights or anything else.



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Posted by: rhodyguy Nov 5 2015, 10:40 AM

Wow! Clean. Nice work.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2015, 11:45 AM

Unfortunately I have not been able to devote much time to the project over the last month but I was able to complete the installation of the front bumper. This was actually no small feat and a culmination of a several month process but dammit I really wanted a chrome front bumper!

The car as I bought it had a fiberglass bumper and lower valance. First of course was finding a decent front bumper that would be able to be chromed. The bumper I found was just ok and it did have a good bumper top. Second was having the bumper modified to accommodate the intake for the front oil cooler PLUS match up to the fiberglass lower valance. Thanks Chris! Then there was the chrome shop and almost 4 months later. Next was finding some sort of mesh screen to go in the intake. Lastly was fitting it all to the car. Trial fit, trail fit, trial fit, and trial fit.

For those looking for an inexpensive solution for the mesh screen I found at the Home Depot that gutter guard worked great and was already painted black, was close to the right size, fairly easy to work with, and like $3.00. How many parts can you buy for $3.00?

Note the PO cut extra holes for the oil cooler intake in the front panel, I just blacked out around it. Attaching the mesh to the fiberglass valance was accomplished with strategically placed tie wraps.


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Posted by: Justinp71 Dec 4 2015, 12:10 PM

popcorn[1].gif Looking Good!

I hope to redo my front bumper soon as well. Did you modify the bumper yourself?

Posted by: MJHanna Dec 4 2015, 12:13 PM

Nice work on the bumper piratenanner.gif It's one of those details that "make' your car. No one that looks at it will have any idea how much effort went into it. But you will always look at it with eyes that show and remind you that it was all worth the effort. aktion035.gif cheer.gif piratenanner.gif

Posted by: siverson Dec 4 2015, 12:35 PM

Nice work! Makes me want to get my orange car back on the road. Our builds are very similar.

-Steve

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2015, 01:22 PM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Dec 4 2015, 10:10 AM) *

popcorn[1].gif Looking Good!

I hope to redo my front bumper soon as well. Did you modify the bumper yourself?


No, did not modify myself wish I could say I did. A guy I know here in San Diego who is a metal wizard did it for me. He has done some amazing stuff so this was like a minor thing for him but I sure appreciated it.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2015, 01:27 PM

QUOTE(siverson @ Dec 4 2015, 10:35 AM) *

Nice work! Makes me want to get my orange car back on the road. Our builds are very similar.

-Steve



Thanks, I know what you mean about getting it on the road. Yes yours does look similar. Unfortunately mine is getting too used to the jack stands. The way things are going it looks like 2016 for me. Still lots to do.

Posted by: Mueller Dec 4 2015, 02:24 PM

Very nice....yep, attention to detail makes a huge difference, great job.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Dec 4 2015, 03:10 PM

Wow! Excellent attention to detail. Your car is looking beautiful. Full speed ahead.

Posted by: moparrob Dec 3 2016, 10:39 PM

I was the prior owner of this car and must say that I am very impressed with the work Jim has done since he has had it. I also realize that i would not have had the skills to complete the car to this level and I applaud his patience and perseverance in picking up the pieces and bringing this project ever so close to completion.

I can't wait to see it running when he is able to devote more time to the project. Needless to say - SUBSCRIBED!

Posted by: forrestkhaag Dec 4 2016, 12:07 PM

At your convenience, can you post a picture of the access port open to see the engine front / and loosely describe your cover's dimensions? I have built a cover from doner firewall but want to confirm that I will be able to get at everything necessary in the engine bay with my dimensions. Thanks and nice work.

beerchug.gif

Posted by: mb911 Dec 4 2016, 12:45 PM

I am just so impressed with the build. The bumper rechrome seams really cheap.. Do you have some contact info?

Posted by: ConeDodger Dec 4 2016, 05:21 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 4 2016, 03:45 PM) *

I am just so impressed with the build. The bumper rechrome seams really cheap.. Do you have some contact info?


Ben,
I didn't see what he paid for the rechrome. Mine was $1000 by Ogden Chrome in Utah. Most I've ever paid for a rechrome but it's perfect, as in perfect! Original Customs modified the bumper. Mark has done 3-4 now so he has perfected his technique on that.


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Posted by: mb911 Dec 4 2016, 05:29 PM

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Dec 4 2016, 03:21 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 4 2016, 03:45 PM) *

I am just so impressed with the build. The bumper rechrome seams really cheap.. Do you have some contact info?


Ben,
I didn't see what he paid for the rechrome. Mine was $1000 by Ogden Chrome in Utah. Most I've ever paid for a rechrome but it's perfect, as in perfect! Original Customs modified the bumper. Mark has done 3-4 now so he has perfected his technique on that.




I am not sure if I am willing to pay that much for the rechrome.. I know that 350 I am very interested.. There is a local shop that told me they would do it for 250 but I need to have it polished in between the removal of chrome and then the replating.

Posted by: 914dave Dec 4 2016, 05:31 PM

Your build is awesome! Who made your quad gauge? New Vintage did mine a few years back. I know what you mean about the wiring. I've been working on mine for a week. My whole harness is out of the car so it's a little easier to work on. popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2016, 06:24 PM

QUOTE(forrestkhaag @ Dec 4 2016, 10:07 AM) *

At your convenience, can you post a picture of the access port open to see the engine front / and loosely describe your cover's dimensions? I have built a cover from doner firewall but want to confirm that I will be able to get at everything necessary in the engine bay with my dimensions. Thanks and nice work.

beerchug.gif


Forestkhaag,
I was recently in touch with the previous owner (Moparrob)and let him know about the thread and progress on World. If you look closely you will see my last post was actually a year ago almost to the day. By responding, Moparrob resurrected the thread with his kind words on the work I have completed. Unfortunately life got in the way a year ago and I had to sideline the project and put it in my trailer. In the trailer I cannot actually get to anything so I am sorry I cannot furnish picture or dimensions at this time. When I get it back out, and I am thinking in just a couple of months, I will provide the picture and info you have requested. Hopefully that will still suit your time frame needs. All the best on you project!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2016, 06:46 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 4 2016, 03:29 PM) *

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Dec 4 2016, 03:21 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 4 2016, 03:45 PM) *

I am just so impressed with the build. The bumper rechrome seams really cheap.. Do you have some contact info?


Ben,
I didn't see what he paid for the rechrome. Mine was $1000 by Ogden Chrome in Utah. Most I've ever paid for a rechrome but it's perfect, as in perfect! Original Customs modified the bumper. Mark has done 3-4 now so he has perfected his technique on that.




I am not sure if I am willing to pay that much for the rechrome.. I know that 350 I am very interested.. There is a local shop that told me they would do it for 250 but I neetehd to have it polished in between the removal of chrome and then the replating.


Ben,
Thanks for the complement on the car. You will see in my post just above the project has been idle for a year.

On the bumper...Well unfortunately the chrome job did not come out as good as hoped and I would not recommend the shop I used for that reason. There was a slew of delays and poor communications and in the end it was just one of those deals where I took the best he could do. I think I ended paying about $300 but it was to have been much more if he could have delivered what he said he could do.

But to be fair there were some "issues" with my bumper to begin with from a repair, so much so, that the first place I took it to would not touch it. That place I wanted to take it to was Escondido Plating he advertises show quality chrome and I have used him before. Don Prestage is a great guy and does good work. Check him out.
860 Metcalf St. Escondido, CA 92025
760-743-4148
cell 760-505-4148
escondidoplating@att.net
autochromeplating.com
Good luck!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2016, 07:02 PM

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Dec 4 2016, 03:21 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 4 2016, 03:45 PM) *

I am just so impressed with the build. The bumper rechrome seams really cheap.. Do you have some contact info?


Ben,
I didn't see what he paid for the rechrome. Mine was $1000 by Ogden Chrome in Utah. Most I've ever paid for a rechrome but it's perfect, as in perfect! Original Customs modified the bumper. Mark has done 3-4 now so he has perfected his technique on that.



ConeDodger,
Gotta love your bumper! Sometimes you just have to throw down to get it done and yours looks great and I am sure it was worth it for perfect. Obviously that was the same look I wanted too and I also had to find someone who could do the modification, and then a chromer, so in all it took about 6 months. Take care!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Dec 4 2016, 07:12 PM

QUOTE(914dave @ Dec 4 2016, 03:31 PM) *

Your build is awesome! Who made your quad gauge? New Vintage did mine a few years back. I know what you mean about the wiring. I've been working on mine for a week. My whole harness is out of the car so it's a little easier to work on. popcorn[1].gif


914dave,
Thanks on my build and as I said a couple of replies up it has been on hold for a year. Looking forward to getting back to it!

The quad gauge was also from New Vintage but the PO I got the car from had bought it but had not installed it. In my thread I talk about how helpful Ben at New Vintage was when I was trying to sort it out even though they had made it years ago he went the extra mile. Unfortunately they don't make them anymore or at least when I was last in touch with them about a year ago. Good luck on your car!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 15 2017, 06:59 PM

My last real post to this thread was Dec 2015 ouch! Although there were minor comments in Dec 2016 nothing was posted on progress. Because there was none!!! Lots of life got in the way!

I actually have been “back at it” since April of 2017 but the progress has been so darn slow that I could not see posting. The short story is that I am now focused on the engine and I didn’t plan to be…… Lots of “issues” came up

Recap, I bought this “work in progress project” with some good stuff already completed and a lot of brand new parts to work with. To top that off this 1974 is an amazingly solid GT conversion with genuine Porsche PN metal flares on a car that did NOT need paint when I got it!! Yes that is correct and this paint job is over 20 years old! It also came with a ’79 3.0 big port six, that to my understanding, “was ready to go”. Hence my handle Lucky9146 for this amazing find after a very long search. This is how it looks today but still not complete.
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I had mated the trans to the engine a while back and really had planned to install it as basically the next major phase. However I had a chance to chat with the PO moparrob earlier this year about the car, and although he had dressed the engine with a pair of Weber 40’s, 914-6 powder coated sheet metal, turbo valve covers etc. to where it looked fantastic, he expressed some reservations about the engine itself. Dang. Turns out we really did not know the history.

And…. In addition I also learned that CIS pistons and CIS cams were NOT that great of a setup with Webers. Soooo….. what next took me quite a bit of time was contemplating and researching what to do.

All this all led to my decision to tear down the engine and go through it. My second 3.0 build, so at least I had done one.. It sure looked ready to go!
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 15 2017, 07:13 PM

I had recently (like May – Aug 2016) rebuilt the 3.0 CIS for my then newly acquired ‘78 SC and that really is a good part of the reason my 914 project got “back burnered”.

Save all the tail dragger comments it is a blast to drive! And I got a smoking deal.

This is the 3.0 CIS going in.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 15 2017, 07:19 PM

And Installed. Such a sweet running motor!

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 15 2017, 07:25 PM

So up on the engine stand the tear down begins and the discovery process.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 15 2017, 07:42 PM

Turns out it was a good decision to get into this engine because there was major carbon that went down the piston skirts and clogging the rings. The Cylinders and heads were not the greatest looking either. Appears not to have been all that well maintained and it apparently had sat for several years and at least the 6 years I know of causing other problems.

Inside seemed to be a caramel color, like the pistons shown, from maybe burnt oil?
Can’t blame the PO too much he got it from a guy who bought it from a reputable source but ya how that goes………….
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Posted by: moparrob Aug 15 2017, 07:45 PM

Hey Jim, the progress looks great. Glad to see you're taking this the next step forward.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 15 2017, 07:56 PM

Thanks Rob!


More of the caramel color inside like the pistons...

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Posted by: porschetub Aug 16 2017, 12:06 AM

Good move,oil burning indicated on the pistons and lack of oil changes has caused the caramel colour in the chain cases .
Great to see you back on the job beer.gif .

Posted by: defianty Aug 16 2017, 01:32 AM

Nice to see this project moving along again. It's one that inspired me to convert my car with a 3.0L. Good luck.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 16 2017, 09:50 AM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Aug 15 2017, 11:06 PM) *

Good move,oil burning indicated on the pistons and lack of oil changes has caused the caramel colour in the chain cases .
Great to see you back on the job beer.gif .


Thanks for the reply and all the way from New Zealand too!
Looked to see if you had a thread and found yours on your car from May 2016 through June 2017.

Especially liked the comment on Apr 2 "just when you think the list is getting smaller something new always crops up" How true! How true!

Good lookin car you have and I will refer back to your thread now for inspiration and ideas.

Continuing with the tear down process here is a cylinder....
Comparing these cylnders with the SC (mentioned earlier) that I rebuilt, this cylinder looked much worse. On my SC I could still see the hone marks and it had 100k miles on it! Not so here.

These did not look like good candidates for a hone job as I was considering new pistons to get away from SC pistons.

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And here are the heads....

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 16 2017, 10:35 AM

QUOTE(defianty @ Aug 16 2017, 12:32 AM) *

Nice to see this project moving along again. It's one that inspired me to convert my car with a 3.0L. Good luck.


Defianty- I appreciate your checking in too. Yes it is good to be at it again and like I said I started in April this year and I wish I'd have just posted as I went along but trying to catch up now.

Hearing that mine helped inspire you is pretty cool because I have seen your thread "914 2.0>3.0 GT conversion" and you are doing some amazing work! I mean the detail is really something. Wow! Now who is inspiring who? I will continue to follow your thread as well. Good luck to you too.


So all my research led to the following decisions. Cams and pistons is what really took me the time figure out. then of course lead times for valve job and cylinder work.

Dougherty DE40 Cams
Re-Nikosil the cylinders
JE 9.5-1 Pistons almost too nice to hide in an engine!
Top notch valve job from one of the best in San Diego

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 16 2017, 06:33 PM

So here we are down to the bottom end which by all accounts think will be ok. Almost ready for assembly. All lower Delvar head studs were replaced with steel ones.

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Mean while the sheet metal got some attention.
Before:

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And After.......

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 16 2017, 10:37 PM

One fun project that I thought I could knock out of the way fairly quickly was the engine cooling shroud. PO had painted the original red one black and it was a nice shiny paint job and all but I just thought the engine being all black with black rain hats, black valve covers, and black shroud would be lost in the hell hole and I wanted it red.

I first wrongly thought that I could just strip the shroud down to the fiberglass original red and that would be good. Big! Big! mistake because not thinking, I used paint stripper, and it got into the fibers and I just couldn't get all the black off! What a mess!

Now I HAVE to paint it again and so I contacted moparrob to find out what he painted it with because the black was pretty nice and amazingly he he still had the can of black Rustoleum For Plastic that he used and shot me a pic. Try to find red Rustoleum For Plastic locally in CA. Nope! Ended up buying from Summit Racing. I must have sprayed and sanded and then primed and sprayed and wet sanded #600 at least 8 times because the paint just kept krinkling up.

So after I had tried several things with no luck I finally ended up calling Rustoleum and amazingly enough they are actually quite helpful. Suggested Rustoleum Professional Primer which can be found locally but the Rustoleum Automotive Line Acrylic Enamel Gloss red #248642 they recommended as their top of the line was another tough one and had to order. I highly recommend this paint. A couple of good coats of this and you're good.

At one point I almost started to look for another shroud but ended up saving this one and it came out great just took a lot of extra work. And sanding.......

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Posted by: Larmo63 Aug 16 2017, 10:47 PM

Wow, looks great. Fun thread to read and a nice car to look at!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 18 2017, 11:23 AM

Thanks Larmo63! I have been following your thread as well and can relate to your ups and downs. I see your engine is going in soon. Best of luck!!


As mentioned earlier my engine sat for years and that is not good it appears for rockers and cam shafts.
No pic of cams (very very minor on cams but going to DC 40's anyway) and here is my worst case rockers....

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Reconditioned rockers from Henry Schmidt via Ken @ 911 Vintage in Fallbrook CA.
Apparently Henry is doing rockers for Nascar and has developed a great process.

And if you have not met Ken he is a great guy and I always enjoy the drive up for the in person experience and a poke around his shop.
Ugh! Another unplanned expense!

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Decided to do new timing chains. why not?
Seems like everything else is being changed out! Simple operation and worth every penny of insurance. Basic stuff I know but there may be those out there that have not done some of it. In fact this was my first timing chain change out on a 3.0.

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Just feed the new chains through following the old chains out using the new master links and good to go!

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 18 2017, 09:26 PM

The cam housings had cracked and peeling sealant on the thru pins on the back sides so the recommendation is JB Weld as a similar material used by the factory originally.

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Unfortunately I put it on a bit thick and then had to file it down as there was not enough clearance with the cylinders/ heads.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 18 2017, 09:42 PM

Cam tower cleaning and prep was a very tedious process. There is no laquer thinner, carb cleaner, gas, paint thinner or whatever else I tried that I know of that will take that Locktite 472 crap off.

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A buddy of mine has a surface plate so I used 320 sand paper to clean the Locktite 472 off of them and of course this also helped ensure flatness too.

There were many more cleanings after the sanding operation. Ugh!

Before and after pics:

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Posted by: 914forme Aug 19 2017, 06:43 AM

Keep it up, answering a lot of questions I will more than likely have myself.

BTW, seeing you grind the chain with an un protected hand, brings back painful memories.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 19 2017, 02:58 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 19 2017, 05:43 AM) *

Keep it up, answering a lot of questions I will more than likely have myself.

BTW, seeing you grind the chain with an un protected hand, brings back painful memories.

Stephen thanks for the encouragement and good point on the grinding!

My original muffler plan was to rework this older 911 muffler 2 in 1 out by re-positioning the tail pipe for 914-6. I was also considering hollowing it out as well but never got that far. Decided that since I am in this deep that I would just treat myself to a new Dansk. Got a decent deal on Ebay.

Then since I had ceramic coated the one for my SC I did this one too. I know it is not stock looking but neither is the rest of the car and I like the look. Matches the ceramic coated headers but muffler has a better finish.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 19 2017, 03:48 PM

I learned that the carbs, although they had been serviced by one of the best, Performance Oriented, that the throttle shafts “might be OK to run”.

How this all came about is one day I decided to contact Performance Oriented via e-mail explain my situation and how I had acquired the carbs to see if he had any records since I had the SN’s and because I knew the PO had sent them there years ago. I wanted to know jetting and just general info if available.

Shocking, Paul got back to me in like 45 minutes with a complete written rundown on the carbs. from July 2011 with venturis, jetting, emulsion tubes, main air correction jest and idle jets. And it was that very last sentence in his email where he said “they were very worn & I performed a ‘best effort’ to tune them” that really hit me. I called Paul we talked at length, very knowledgeable engineer type and very thorough. Paul explained that basically the “throttle shafts were at the end of their serviceable life” and they would be ok for a while but I might have trouble keeping them tuned.

Once again something seemingly so ready to go had a problem. I didn’t feel comfortable with this information and felt it needed addressing.

Back story here was that I had years ago a 69 912 with Solex’s that had worn throttle shafts and I fought those damn air leaks for way too long so I decided to nip this one in the bud.

Here is what they looked like before sending off. They looked great! Well they had oxidized some.

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Here they are back all done. Completely re-jetted, oxidation gone, new long shafts, OEM throttle valves, and shaft couplings.
Resealed and tested!
Hopefully this will make for less sorting out.

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Posted by: porschetub Aug 19 2017, 04:22 PM

[quote name='Lucky9146' date='Aug 19 2017, 05:23 AM' post='2518353']
Thanks Larmo63! I have been following your thread as well and can relate to your ups and downs. I see your engine is going in soon. Best of luck!!


As mentioned earlier my engine sat for years and that is not good it appears for rockers and cam shafts.
No pic of cams (very very minor on cams but going to DC 40's anyway) and here is my worst case rockers....

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Reconditioned rockers from Henry Schmidt via Ken @ 911 Vintage in Fallbrook CA.
Apparently Henry is doing rockers for Nascar and has developed a great process.

Quote

Great build going well,did you find what caused the galling on the rocker arms? blocked oil spray rail or wrong oil maybe ?,would be interested to know,cheers.

Posted by: mepstein Aug 19 2017, 04:48 PM

beerchug.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 19 2017, 05:33 PM

[quote name='porschetub' date='Aug 19 2017, 03:22 PM' post='2518781']
[quote name='Lucky9146' date='Aug 19 2017, 05:23 AM' post='2518353']
Thanks Larmo63! I have been following your thread as well and can relate to your ups and downs. I see your engine is going in soon. Best of luck!!


As mentioned earlier my engine sat for years and that is not good it appears for rockers and cam shafts.
No pic of cams (very very minor on cams but going to DC 40's anyway) and here is my worst case rockers....

Attached Image

Reconditioned rockers from Henry Schmidt via Ken @ 911 Vintage in Fallbrook CA.
Apparently Henry is doing rockers for Nascar and has developed a great process.

Quote

Great build going well,did you find what caused the galling on the rocker arms? blocked oil spray rail or wrong oil maybe ?,would be interested to know,cheers.
[/quote]

____________________________________________________
porschetub
Thank you on the build comment.
Unfortunately that is not galling. That my friend is pitting. Best I can tell from research I did is that it was caused by:
A. Mostly sitting
B. Lack of oil changes (contaminates in the oil eating the metal)

Best I got hope it helps. Thanks for looking




Posted by: forrestkhaag Aug 19 2017, 06:20 PM

Great to see brain damage similar to mine on the way to a screaming 3.0 Weber driven 914.

Do what you have to do and build to the highest bar your budget will allow.

Once you crack open the case halves, replace everything and sleep like a baby.

beerchug.gif


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Posted by: forrestkhaag Aug 19 2017, 06:22 PM

and finishing?.......... WTF.gif Never finished......

Posted by: porschetub Aug 19 2017, 07:51 PM

Exactly ,all that final stuff ....takes for ever,then the oil leaks come later lol-2.gif lol-2.gif .

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 20 2017, 12:14 PM

QUOTE(forrestkhaag @ Aug 19 2017, 05:20 PM) *

Great to see brain damage similar to mine on the way to a screaming 3.0 Weber driven 914.

Do what you have to do and build to the highest bar your budget will allow.

Once you crack open the case halves, replace everything and sleep like a baby.

beerchug.gif


Yes forrestkhaag misery loves company and there may well be brain damage involved! Thanks for the post and I like the looks of your engine.

To reinterate the point here I started the engine late April and did not start posting again to my thread till about Aug 15th so most of the work on engine build is done now, case splittting ship has sailed. I had not posted during the April to Aug time frame cuz progress just seemed so darn slow with so many set backs and I didn't really have the time or inclinaton to post so I am trying, with still limited time, to bring the thead up to date. In some ways it is a better perspective with before and after pics. And I happen to be waiting on parts again!

I based my decision not to split the case on the health of the cam bearings and rod bearings and group think that the bottom ends are pretty stout and good for several thousand miles. Glad you did tho and hope like hell I made the right decision. Might not be sleeping like a baby.
____________________________________________________________
After an enormous amount of research, cleaning and prep, and parts gathering, the reassembly finally begins July 5. But there was one final delay to get to this point of actually putting the cylinders on. I opened up the Victor Reinz gasket kit and found the cylinder base gaskets were black! I decided to go with some expert advice and order the copper cylinder base gaskets, as opposed to the black. Once more thought I was ready to go only to have to wait for more new parts to arrive. Ugh! Long time Porsche engine builder friend says he does not like the black ones and relies only on the copper. I am not going to argue!
First piston and cylinder here we go….

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Pistons and cylinders on and secure. This is a good point to mention the cooling shrouds being installed correctly. They say if installed upside down it can lead to over heating and the that design change that was made to remove material about 1977 supposedly lowers engine temp 15 degrees. And, it is easy to put them in upside down! Oh and you really can’t get them off to fix it later as the drain tubes are in the way. Word to the wise.

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Posted by: earossi Aug 20 2017, 02:23 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 18 2017, 12:23 PM) *

Thanks Larmo63! I have been following your thread as well and can relate to your ups and downs. I see your engine is going in soon. Best of luck!!


As mentioned earlier my engine sat for years and that is not good it appears for rockers and cam shafts.
No pic of cams (very very minor on cams but going to DC 40's anyway) and here is my worst case rockers....

Attached Image

Reconditioned rockers from Henry Schmidt via Ken @ 911 Vintage in Fallbrook CA.
Apparently Henry is doing rockers for Nascar and has developed a great process.

And if you have not met Ken he is a great guy and I always enjoy the drive up for the in person experience and a poke around his shop.
Ugh! Another unplanned expense!

Attached Image



Decided to do new timing chains. why not?
Seems like everything else is being changed out! Simple operation and worth every penny of insurance. Basic stuff I know but there may be those out there that have not done some of it. In fact this was my first timing chain change out on a 3.0.




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Just feed the new chains through following the old chains out using the new master links and good to go!

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First off, you are doing a great job on this rebuild. I'm loving the attention to cleanliness which is key to a great build. Having spent hours cleaning parts on my 3.6 build for my 993, I really appreciate what you are doing.

Second, comments on the pitted rockers. As you noted, this was probably due to leaving the engine with old oil inn it for a long period of time. Since one of the products of combustion is sulfurous acid, it's imperative that oil be changed on a regular basis......not necessarily mileage. As I've seen many places, oil needs to be changed annually or every xxxx miles; whichever comes first. So, the pitting is corrosion and the only way to prevent it is to keep the oil clean. That's why it is best to change out oil just before putting your car away for the winter months or for any extended storage period.

Galling is another thing and is usually due to the poor formulations of today's oils. It's been explained ad nausium the cause of galling; but, the thing to remember is to run an oil that higher levels of ZDDP. You need at least 1300 ppm of that additive to prevent galling of the rockers. To get those levels, you need to run oils meant for off road or racing use. You can also get the correct level of ZDDP by running Mobil 1 V-Twin, which is their oil formulation for motorcycles. Since motorcycles do not need catalytic mufflers, the higher additive levels are permitted.

On my teardown of a 3.6 motor from my 993, there was significant evidence of galling on a number of lobes of one of the cams. That was at 107k miles. All the bearings in that motor were perfect which is an indication that oil changes were proper. Research showed that galling failures are beginning to be seen in the air cooled motors.

One question: Since you elected to split the case of your motor, why did you opt for split cam chains? There is nothing wrong with the chains that have a removable link, but the continuous chain eliminates the potential for the link coming loose.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 20 2017, 03:26 PM

QUOTE(earossi @ Aug 20 2017, 01:23 PM) *


First off, you are doing a great job on this rebuild. I'm loving the attention to cleanliness which is key to a great build. Having spent hours cleaning parts on my 3.6 build for my 993, I really appreciate what you are doing.

Second, comments on the pitted rockers. As you noted, this was probably due to leaving the engine with old oil inn it for a long period of time. Since one of the products of combustion is sulfurous acid, it's imperative that oil be changed on a regular basis......not necessarily mileage. As I've seen many places, oil needs to be changed annually or every xxxx miles; whichever comes first. So, the pitting is corrosion and the only way to prevent it is to keep the oil clean. That's why it is best to change out oil just before putting your car away for the winter months or for any extended storage period.

Galling is another thing and is usually due to the poor formulations of today's oils. It's been explained ad nausium the cause of galling; but, the thing to remember is to run an oil that higher levels of ZDDP. You need at least 1300 ppm of that additive to prevent galling of the rockers. To get those levels, you need to run oils meant for off road or racing use. You can also get the correct level of ZDDP by running Mobil 1 V-Twin, which is their oil formulation for motorcycles. Since motorcycles do not need catalytic mufflers, the higher additive levels are permitted.

On my teardown of a 3.6 motor from my 993, there was significant evidence of galling on a number of lobes of one of the cams. That was at 107k miles. All the bearings in that motor were perfect which is an indication that oil changes were proper. Research showed that galling failures are beginning to be seen in the air cooled motors.

One question: Since you elected to split the case of your motor, why did you opt for split cam chains? There is nothing wrong with the chains that have a removable link, but the continuous chain eliminates the potential for the link coming loose.


Thanks for the encouragement and for all your input on oil and all. That is what so great about this site is you can learn something every day.

To your question, Um, my last post earlier today talks about my decision NOT to split the case and why and so, you are correct, I could have just done solid chains had I split the case. Hope I made the right choice in not splitting. Had some expert guidance in my decision.
Thanks again for looking!

Posted by: earossi Aug 20 2017, 06:39 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 20 2017, 04:26 PM) *

QUOTE(earossi @ Aug 20 2017, 01:23 PM) *


First off, you are doing a great job on this rebuild. I'm loving the attention to cleanliness which is key to a great build. Having spent hours cleaning parts on my 3.6 build for my 993, I really appreciate what you are doing.

Second, comments on the pitted rockers. As you noted, this was probably due to leaving the engine with old oil inn it for a long period of time. Since one of the products of combustion is sulfurous acid, it's imperative that oil be changed on a regular basis......not necessarily mileage. As I've seen many places, oil needs to be changed annually or every xxxx miles; whichever comes first. So, the pitting is corrosion and the only way to prevent it is to keep the oil clean. That's why it is best to change out oil just before putting your car away for the winter months or for any extended storage period.

Galling is another thing and is usually due to the poor formulations of today's oils. It's been explained ad nausium the cause of galling; but, the thing to remember is to run an oil that higher levels of ZDDP. You need at least 1300 ppm of that additive to prevent galling of the rockers. To get those levels, you need to run oils meant for off road or racing use. You can also get the correct level of ZDDP by running Mobil 1 V-Twin, which is their oil formulation for motorcycles. Since motorcycles do not need catalytic mufflers, the higher additive levels are permitted.

On my teardown of a 3.6 motor from my 993, there was significant evidence of galling on a number of lobes of one of the cams. That was at 107k miles. All the bearings in that motor were perfect which is an indication that oil changes were proper. Research showed that galling failures are beginning to be seen in the air cooled motors.

One question: Since you elected to split the case of your motor, why did you opt for split cam chains? There is nothing wrong with the chains that have a removable link, but the continuous chain eliminates the potential for the link coming loose.


Thanks for the encouragement and for all your input on oil and all. That is what so great about this site is you can learn something every day.

To your question, Um, my last post earlier today talks about my decision NOT to split the case and why and so, you are correct, I could have just done solid chains had I split the case. Hope I made the right choice in not splitting. Had some expert guidance in my decision.
Thanks again for looking!



I guess I missed seeing your decision to NOT split the case. Normally, splitting the case is only called for on very high mileage engines, or engines that have sustained any internal damage.

Personally, given the corrosion found on your rockers, what assurance do you have that the same pitting is not on the crank main journals? One thing that you can do is to pull the rods to see if there is evidence of pitting on the rod journals.

Normally, the bottom end of these engines are good for over 200k miles if normal oil changes occur.. The only thing that does get more wear are the intermediate shaft bearings.

Posted by: porschetub Aug 20 2017, 06:42 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 20 2017, 09:48 AM) *

I learned that the carbs, although they had been serviced by one of the best, Performance Oriented, that the throttle shafts “might be OK to run”.

How this all came about is one day I decided to contact Performance Oriented via e-mail explain my situation and how I had acquired the carbs to see if he had any records since I had the SN’s and because I knew the PO had sent them there years ago. I wanted to know jetting and just general info if available.

Shocking, Paul got back to me in like 45 minutes with a complete written rundown on the carbs. from July 2011 with venturis, jetting, emulsion tubes, main air correction jest and idle jets. And it was that very last sentence in his email where he said “they were very worn & I performed a ‘best effort’ to tune them” that really hit me. I called Paul we talked at length, very knowledgeable engineer type and very thorough. Paul explained that basically the “throttle shafts were at the end of their serviceable life” and they would be ok for a while but I might have trouble keeping them tuned.

Once again something seemingly so ready to go had a problem. I didn’t feel comfortable with this information and felt it needed addressing.

Back story here was that I had years ago a 69 912 with Solex’s that had worn throttle shafts and I fought those damn air leaks for way too long so I decided to nip this one in the bud.

Here is what they looked like before sending off. They looked great! Well they had oxidized some.

Attached Image

Here they are back all done. Completely re-jetted, oxidation gone, new long shafts, OEM throttle valves, and shaft couplings.
Resealed and tested!
Hopefully this will make for less sorting out.

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Strange how someone would shortcut that but really that's were the money is rebuilding them,the rest is rather basic,interesting how the throttle shafts wear more than the bushes....steel on bronze afterall ,did see the same thing was I was engineering on large fishing trawlers.
My Zeniths had wear on the spindles but not the bushes,not a lot but I do have a slight wet spot at those points ,however they have tuned well so happy for the moment,those carbs of yours are jewels ,Paul has a great rep on Pelican well done.

Posted by: earossi Aug 20 2017, 06:48 PM

OK, my error. I went back and reviewed the pictures of what I thought was your build, and found that they were pictures from another build.

So, given the corrosion related damage to the cams and the rockers, did you pull the rods and inspect the rod journals? If you did, and you found no indication of the same failure mechanism, then you are probably alright to have not split the case.

How many miles are on the bottom end of the engine?

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 21 2017, 10:21 AM

QUOTE(earossi @ Aug 20 2017, 05:48 PM) *

OK, my error. I went back and reviewed the pictures of what I thought was your build, and found that they were pictures from another build.

So, given the corrosion related damage to the cams and the rockers, did you pull the rods and inspect the rod journals? If you did, and you found no indication of the same failure mechanism, then you are probably alright to have not split the case.

How many miles are on the bottom end of the engine?



No did not pull the bearing caps and as I said in an earlier post I based my decision NOT to split the case on the health of the cam bearings which looked very good as did rod bearings and group think that the bottom ends are pretty stout and good for several thousand miles. The pitting on the cam lobes was very minor it was the rockers that had the most. Hope it was the right decision.

Thanks for your input.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 21 2017, 10:21 PM

Heads on and temporary install of the oil cooler for the cam tower install. This allows you to make sure the heads are lined up on that side for head to oil cooler clearance when assembling the cam towers. There is just the slightest bit of play in the heads, so why not? Another tip from Porsche engine builder friend of mine.

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Cam tower on, and I wish I had thought to take a pic of how much (really how little) Locktite 472 to be put on. Missed pic on both sides!! UGH! There is a lot going on at this point though with the Locktite 574, 2 lubricated oil drain tubes, and 6 pins in the three heads to line up, and a host of studs, it is easy to forget the camera even moving at the snail pace I am.

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Funny, the build book says the way to check proper installation of the cam towers is to try the cam and see if it turns freely.

Yikes!... and re-torque if necessary. Really?
Well good news on mine, both sides!! Good to go!

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Starting to look like an engine again....

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 24 2017, 07:59 AM

Had a lot of problems with the Dougherty DC40 cams as they punched the front end to mark the key way DC40 right in the end of the front of the cam.

That punch marks, which took me quite a while to figure out, deformed material on the front of the shaft that would not allow the timing gear to go on or the sprocket for that matter. It was as though the ends of the cams were mushroomed. After dickin with the cams for hours I alerted John Dougherty they were putting the punch too close to the O.D. and raising material. He was surprised and was going to make a change to his process. So I either had to return (more lost time) or hand dress them myself, which I chose to do.

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Reconditioned chain tensioner arms with the upgraded integral spacer makes for a much wider bearing surface. Old and new shown here. Pricey improvement but the original arms were galled and had no brass bushing. Really had no choice but now I have a much improved nice wide bronze bushing and spacer! Again these were exchange from Supertec through Ken at 911 Vintage in Fallbrook.

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Ready to set the chain timing!

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 24 2017, 12:05 PM

So now with the timing set, and lucky for me that I happen to know one of the best Porsche engine guys in San Diego, I am ready to finish build this puppy. I feel comfortable building the engine alright but the cam timing with the Dougherty Cams is another story. There was a trick to setting it and we figured it out because it behaved differently than a regular Porsche cam due to the lift. This guru also helped me with the cam timing on my SC motor as well and that sucker runs like a watch. There are little nuances you can do with setting cam timing and you don’t read that in a book!

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Chain housing covers installed after sanding them for flatness. Buttoning it up!

Then the chain tensioner oil lines were the next order of business. Might seem like a simple thing but cleaning up all the fittings, flushing, and then having to re-bend both the larger and the smaller feed lines on both sides took the day! You see a small bend in the larger line relocates the fitting for the intersecting smaller line and so a bend in the one results is needing to bend the other. Fun.

Looked like the metal line segments, having been installed at angles as shown in the before picture, was putting stress on the rubber hose part of the larger line.

Before
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After
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Posted by: moparrob Aug 24 2017, 12:22 PM

Your spectacular attention to detail and thorough explanation of problems and solutions is greatly appreciated. These are the things you don't learn in a book. Thanks for sharing.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 24 2017, 12:23 PM

Additionally I filed a relief in the front of the timing chain cover for the small oil line on the right side for clearance and added plastic tube for insulator to prevent line chafing.

Before
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After
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And I decided to install the fan and clamp now because I know you can’t get the clamp in after the dizzy goes in.

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Posted by: mb911 Aug 24 2017, 01:02 PM

In all the 911 engines I have built over the years I have always put the heads and cam towers on as 1 assembly.. I know others do it just like you but just don't know if one way is better then the other..

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 25 2017, 08:56 AM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 24 2017, 12:02 PM) *

In all the 911 engines I have built over the years I have always put the heads and cam towers on as 1 assembly.. I know others do it just like you but just don't know if one way is better then the other..


mb911 with only 2 of these particular engines under my belt I am always willing to learn and it sounds like you have more experience than me. My thought is that the joint between the cam towers to heads assembly is said to be one of the most critical, that using the head studs to line up the heads would be beneficial to mating the cam tower to them. Additionally it makes the application of RTV574 one operation when putting the cam tower to the heads instead of three when assembling each head to the cam tower. Just my 2 cents. I would say if you are having good success with your method to continue on. Thanks for looking at the thread.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 25 2017, 09:16 AM

Valve covers were the next opportunity for flatness. More sanding…….

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Just had to try a header on for fit to see. Sure looks cool. MSDS 1 5/8 with Ceramic coating, beautiful! These came to me done and with the project I bought. Nice work moparrob!

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Posted by: ValcoOscar Aug 25 2017, 09:36 AM

You D'man....

Truly a work of art. Great skills and patience indeed.

pray.gif

Oscar

Posted by: worn Aug 25 2017, 09:42 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 25 2017, 07:16 AM) *

Valve covers were the next opportunity for flatness. More sanding…….


Doesn't it look grand at that point? Good flattening. Wish I had done that with my chain covers wacko.gif

Posted by: mb911 Aug 25 2017, 03:21 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 25 2017, 06:56 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 24 2017, 12:02 PM) *

In all the 911 engines I have built over the years I have always put the heads and cam towers on as 1 assembly.. I know others do it just like you but just don't know if one way is better then the other..


mb911 with only 2 of these particular engines under my belt I am always willing to learn and it sounds like you have more experience than me. My thought is that the joint between the cam towers to heads assembly is said to be one of the most critical, that using the head studs to line up the heads would be beneficial to mating the cam tower to them. Additionally it makes the application of RTV574 one operation when putting the cam tower to the heads instead of three when assembling each head to the cam tower. Just my 2 cents. I would say if you are having good success with your method to continue on. Thanks for looking at the thread.



Oh completely understand but I always approached it from the dowl pins in the heads made it easy to locate into the cam towers and put it on as a completed unit though a bit harder to torque the heads ..

Its all good.. Keep up the good work.

Posted by: moparrob Aug 25 2017, 09:55 PM

Marty Schneider (MSDS) makes some awesome headers here in So Cal. He is also a really nice guy who owns a bad ass turbo 914 (6 cyl).

I know, I know... you can't turbo a 914...


IPB Image

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 26 2017, 02:16 PM

QUOTE(moparrob @ Aug 24 2017, 11:22 AM) *

Your spectacular attention to detail and thorough explanation of problems and solutions is greatly appreciated. These are the things you don't learn in a book. Thanks for sharing.



Thanks man.

It truly is a learning experience and if I can help one person with anything I've come across then all this posting is worth it. I have to say that I sure have learned a lot from this site and it is one of the things that keeps me inspired it is my way of contributing. I appreciate the others who have done or are doing 6 conversions like forrestkhaag and larmo63 and I am sure there are many others.

Starting with a car this far along was perfect for me at this point in my life. My hats off to those doing the heavy lifting of major rust reapir and GT conversions. These truly are cool cars worth the effort.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 26 2017, 02:23 PM

QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ Aug 25 2017, 08:36 AM) *

You D'man....

Truly a work of art. Great skills and patience indeed.

pray.gif

Oscar


Thanks for weighing in and the complement. I am fortunate that I am not in a hurry and can take the time. Rushing was never one of my strong points and I can see that In a lot of folks cars. Look at what defianty is doing with detail in the UK amazing!

Look forward to meeting you in Temecula.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 26 2017, 02:38 PM

Perry Kiehl Wiring harness going back in.

He sure was a major help to me when I was wiring to the chassis with MSD a while back. I have heard others also say that he what a big help he is and that is really true!

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Posted by: mepstein Aug 26 2017, 03:40 PM

QUOTE(moparrob @ Aug 25 2017, 11:55 PM) *

Marty Schneider (MSDS) makes some awesome headers here in So Cal. He is also a really nice guy who owns a bad ass turbo 914 (6 cyl).

I know, I know... you can't turbo a 914...


Dropping a 935 engine in a 914 is just a whole 'nother level. smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 27 2017, 01:20 PM

Almost ready to come off the stand

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Kind a like giving birth! I took it off the stand because I was again waiting parts and top side work from here on out.

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But I was not quite as ready as I thought because when I went to order new intake manifold gaskets and insulators so I could mount my manifolds and Weber 40’s, I began yet another fun educational experience. I'm hearing the intake manifolds that I have which are actual Porsche intake manifolds, that have been lightly ported and came with my project purchase, won’t work well. These great looking Porsche PN manifolds are for an early 2.0 engine and now present major complications especially when trying to use them on a 3.0 CIS to Weber conversion application. Hmmmm…….. Really? confused24.gif

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Took me a while to buy into the concept that my recently bead blasted, beautiful ready to go manifolds, were really not a good idea to use. Made a couple calls to Richard at PMO and Paul at Performance Oriented (he did the carbs), plus contacting a few guys here on the World who have also done 3.0 conversions, and I finally came to realize that another investment was necessary. That being new PMO CIS manifolds had to be ordered.

Just when I thought all the large purchases were behind me. Man, I can’t wait to see the difference of these PMO’s, this better be worth it. dry.gif

Here is another shot of the original Porsche Manifolds flange that mates to heads.
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Posted by: gms Aug 27 2017, 02:10 PM

Yup those manifold will leak air because they don't cover the CIS injector cut out on the intake of the head.
Head
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Recommended intake
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Posted by: mepstein Aug 27 2017, 02:18 PM

QUOTE(gms @ Aug 27 2017, 04:10 PM) *

Yup those manifold will leak air because they don't cover the CIS injector cut out on the intake of the head.

Ant you buy some spacers that will seel up the gap.

Posted by: sixnotfour Aug 27 2017, 02:20 PM

rick 918-S, made some plates he was selling to solve that coverage, or PMO has plastic spacers that would work also..


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=263516&hl=

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 27 2017, 02:46 PM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Aug 27 2017, 01:20 PM) *

rick 918-S, made some plates he was selling to solve that coverage, or PMO has plastic spacers that would work also..


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=263516&hl=


Thanks for the info on the Alien plates. Sent him a PM but that post was from 2015 and I already ordered manifolds. sad.gif Guess I should have done more checking around.

Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 27 2017, 07:20 PM

Yup. And i think the PMO's are too tall for our cars. Maybe not but i thought i read that in one of our threads here.

Looks like you have the 36mm ports. My Alien adapters only raise the intakes 1/8" and clear the shroud. Send me your address. I will send you a set to try. If you like them you can send me a pay pal or something. assimilate.gif

Nothing like a high cost solution to a low cost problem.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 27 2017, 08:30 PM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Aug 27 2017, 06:20 PM) *

Yup. And i think the PMO's are too tall for our cars. Maybe not but i thought i read that in one of our threads here.

Looks like you have the 36mm ports. My Alien adapters only raise the intakes 1/8" and clear the shroud. Send me your address. I will send you a set to try. If you like them you can send me a pay pal or something. assimilate.gif

Nothing like a high cost solution to a low cost problem.


Rick
That's for sure on the high cost solution! Well actually I have the 39mm ports in the heads. Not sure why the venturi's are 36 but that Weber stuff is beyond me, I have skills and limitations. I will double check on the PMO's "too high" part. PMO actually sells 2 CIS solutions 40/38 at 3.9 in. high and 40/36/ which are 3.25 in. high and I went with the shorter one which was suppose to work with stock air cleaner

I'll PM you

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 29 2017, 09:31 AM

[quote name='gms' post='2521345' date='Aug 27 2017, 01:10 PM']
Yup those manifold will leak air because they don't cover the CIS injector cut out on the intake of the head.
Head
Attached Image

Recommended intake


PMO Manifolds received!
The original Porsche manifolds will not just bolt on CIS heads as there just isn’t the sealing surface on the manifold flange because they do not have the bump out on the flange to cover the CIS intake port scallop in the heads as gms pointed out. And they will likely crack, I’m told.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 29 2017, 09:40 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Aug 27 2017, 01:46 PM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Aug 27 2017, 01:20 PM) *

rick 918-S, made some plates he was selling to solve that coverage, or PMO has plastic spacers that would work also..


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=263516&hl=


Thanks for the info on the Alien plates. Sent him a PM but that post was from 2015 and I already ordered manifolds. sad.gif Guess I should have done more checking around.



However Rick 918-S is sending some of his Alien Plates for me to check out and they will look like this. So the jury is out for now awaiting their arrival. Thanks again sixnotfour for the tip on the Alien plates!

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 29 2017, 10:14 AM

Richard at PMO recommended the 40/38 “tall” manifolds. But the height concerned me at 3.9 inches as I wanted to leave myself the option to use a 914-6 air cleaner should I want to. I have heard from many that you just might get tired of the sound right behind your head or for longer drives and maybe to get my wife to ride in the car. smile.gif So I elected to go with the 40/36 “short” manifolds at 3.25 inches. Sounds like I am necking it down I know, but Paul at Performance Oriented said that with the 36mm venturi’s in the carbs it should be fine.

The pictures are distorted a bit, because I was so close taking them, but you can see the height differences. Note the original manifolds are about 2.75 inches high.

Nice how the PMO have the rubber grommets in the manifold that the spark plug wires go through.

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And you can clearly see the differences in flanges.

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Posted by: defianty Aug 29 2017, 11:14 AM

I'm in a similar position at the moment Lucky 9146.

I think I have the 'tall' manifolds and am concerned they're too tall to fit correctly with the rain hats I have.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=315580

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 31 2017, 02:24 PM

Heard from Rick 918-S that he does not have any 39mm Alien Plates at this time and he would have to make them. Plates are shown above and made for adapting original intake manifolds to cover the CIS scallops in the heads. Rick had offered to let me try them. Don’t want Rick to spend the time to make up something that I may not ultimately use, so I am going to proceed with the PMO CIS Standard Manifolds (often referred to as short, see previous postings) since I already have them. “Nothing like a high cost solution for a low cost problem” as Rick puts it. biggrin.gif
It’s not like I can’t wait for the plates, because my progress is so darn slow, but I really was leaning toward the PMO manifolds anyway and it didn’t seem fair to Rick. Thanks again Rick for the offer!
________________________________________________________________

Now on to another time gobbler (at least in my case) is the gaskets supplied by PMO with the insulators for the intake manifolds. The good news is for the most part the insulators fit down through the engine shroud with only minor exceptions but the gaskets are far larger and require trimming.
And I thought I was just going to slap them on there! Ha! headbang.gif

This may seem like such a minor thing to bring up and cover but luckily for me my engine is not installed yet for performing this operation and right now I can easily see how to trim the gaskets with the engine right in front of me. I did this with a nice sharp pair of scissors.

But for someone doing this after the engine is in, man I feel for ya.

Additionally, these gaskets seem to have a lot (and I mean a lot) of loose flaky material in the bore of the gasket that unless removed and cleaned up could easily fall into the head. I also recommend running something like an old stud through the gasket stud holes prior to installing it as there is also a lot of flaky crap in those holes that goes everywhere when you slide the gasket down the intake studs. PIA

Does Not fit through the shroud at all, and this is my original shroud.
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Trimmed about this much
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Comparison and all the flaky loose crap
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Just the gasket in place
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Insulators fit pretty well and yes that's another damn flake in the hole..... I'll get it...
Another gasket goes on top the insulator and really does not need to be trimmed but might as well as it looks kinda stupid if you don't with a big ole gasket hanging over the insulator. WTF.gif
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Posted by: porschetub Aug 31 2017, 02:58 PM

[quote name='Lucky9146' date='Aug 30 2017, 04:14 AM' post='2522011']
Richard at PMO recommended the 40/38 “tall” manifolds. But the height concerned me at 3.9 inches as I wanted to leave myself the option to use a 914-6 air cleaner should I want to. I have heard from many that you just might get tired of the sound right behind your head or for longer drives and maybe to get my wife to ride in the car. smile.gif So I elected to go with the 40/36 “short” manifolds at 3.25 inches. Sounds like I am necking it down I know, but Paul at Performance Oriented said that with the 36mm venturi’s in the carbs it should be fine.

quote

Read your comment about the engine noise,I went back to stock over the K&N's I had,yes I know these engines sound great but I found it kinda got a bit much for me.
Difference in sound is rather noticeable,like the idea of better air filtration due to my road condition also.
Just measured clearance @ rear bulkhead and I have around 10mm with the stock plastic one,it also appears there is plenty of room to go upwards as in your case with taller manifolds ,really can't see rain hats clearing however.
Someone mentioned it depends on what conversion engine mount you have,fair point.
Keep up the good work beer.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 31 2017, 08:39 PM

[quote name='porschetub' date='Aug 31 2017, 01:58 PM' post='2522800']
[quote name='Lucky9146' date='Aug 30 2017, 04:14 AM' post='2522011']
Richard at PMO recommended the 40/38 “tall” manifolds. But the height concerned me at 3.9 inches as I wanted to leave myself the option to use a 914-6 air cleaner should I want to. I have heard from many that you just might get tired of the sound right behind your head or for longer drives and maybe to get my wife to ride in the car. smile.gif So I elected to go with the 40/36 “short” manifolds at 3.25 inches. Sounds like I am necking it down I know, but Paul at Performance Oriented said that with the 36mm venturi’s in the carbs it should be fine.

quote

Read your comment about the engine noise,I went back to stock over the K&N's I had,yes I know these engines sound great but I found it kinda got a bit much for me.
Difference in sound is rather noticeable,like the idea of better air filtration due to my road condition also.
Just measured clearance @ rear bulkhead and I have around 10mm with the stock plastic one,it also appears there is plenty of room to go upwards as in your case with taller manifolds ,really can't see rain hats clearing however.
Someone mentioned it depends on what conversion engine mount you have,fair point.
Keep up the good work beer.gif

[/quote]

Porschetub, that you have stock air cleaners is yet another example and I also have a good friend who has a 6 conversion and he is done with the sound. I have driven it a couple of times and it sounds great to me but I guess it could wear on you after a while.
Like I said, I want to keep my options open. It never hurts.
As best I can tell the mount is set for stock engine height and was not done by me.
Good luck on yours as well!

Posted by: Larmo63 Aug 31 2017, 09:07 PM

I kinda want my car to sound raspy so my wife "won't" want to ride in it. She drives an Escalade, so she's already freaked out about a 914.

I usually drive in the car by myself, so I only have to please myself.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Aug 31 2017, 09:20 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Aug 31 2017, 08:07 PM) *

I kinda want my car to sound raspy so my wife "won't" want to ride in it. She drives an Escalade, so she's already freaked out about a 914.

I usually drive in the car by myself, so I only have to please myself.


That's cool I get it. Who knows mine might not want to ride in it either.

Hey your car is coming right along I just was on your thread looking at your install day pics. I am hopefully not that far behind.
I may have a question or 2 for ya.
Won't have my car ready but I'll see you in Temecula.
All the best in sorting yours out.


Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 3 2017, 11:13 AM

Yesterday…….Off subject of the engine for a minute.

If you have not yet met Marty Schneider of MSDS you are missing out! What a great guy! I had heard a long time ago from mepstein that Marty had fabricated a fiberglass GT rear valance for 914-6 GT flared cars.

I was heading up to the LA area early Saturday morning for a different reason and decided on a Friday night to contact Marty and see, on a long shot, if he would meet me and sell me one of these GT flare valances. To my pleasant surprise he said he would! So I present myself to his shop at the prescribed time and there he was. Great to talk with, easy going with a wealth of information and experience, and lots of good stories. Not hurried to beet feet out of there on a very warm Saturday morning plus holiday weekend, he took the time to educate me on the nuances of the valance and make sure I understood what needed to be done for fit and finish. He even offered a 100% refund. How can you beat that! Maybe I shouldn’t have said that but I get the feeling the he treats everyone well. Sorry if I spilled the beans there Marty!

I learned from Marty that he had one of these valances molded for his own car, which had factory PN GT metal flares, and then he had some valances made to sell. Keep in mind this is NOT a tall valance but rather deals with the flared fenders instead and looks to be about the same height as a regular valance.

I know, I know, a “real GT’ has no rear valance but I kind of like the idea of a clean look and it could be removed so no harm done. So, why not?

Oh, and one last thing I got the last one he had but he said he will be making another batch of 25 sometime in the future. What a great experience (well except for LA traffic). Picture below of the valance taped in place this morning. Another future project to paint and fit. Looks like a winner! Thanks Marty
P.S. It was cool to see where my headers were made.

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Posted by: moparrob Sep 3 2017, 01:32 PM

That's awesome Jim. I had the same experience when I met him at his shop and picked up the headers. He is truly an ambassador of these cars and a great guy to know and converse with. Will you need to clearance the lower edge for the exhaust tip?

Posted by: defianty Sep 3 2017, 02:09 PM

I like the rear valance. I have a similar one made by a guy in Germany to go on my GT. For a road car I personally think they look better with the valance than the raw GT look.

Posted by: mb911 Sep 3 2017, 02:27 PM

QUOTE(defianty @ Sep 3 2017, 12:09 PM) *

I like the rear valance. I have a similar one made by a guy in Germany to go on my GT. For a road car I personally think they look better with the valance than the raw GT look.

agree.gif

Once get to it I will be making weld flares for the stock steel valance just like I do for the rockers.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 3 2017, 02:34 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Sep 3 2017, 04:27 PM) *

QUOTE(defianty @ Sep 3 2017, 12:09 PM) *

I like the rear valance. I have a similar one made by a guy in Germany to go on my GT. For a road car I personally think they look better with the valance than the raw GT look.

agree.gif

Once get to it I will be making weld flares for the stock steel valance just like I do for the rockers.

Ben - I'm just going to send you my car - and a bunch of cash. It will be easier in the long run. biggrin.gif

Lucky - great job getting the parts together. MSDS makes awesome stuff for our cars.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 3 2017, 03:15 PM

QUOTE(moparrob @ Sep 3 2017, 12:32 PM) *

That's awesome Jim. I had the same experience when I met him at his shop and picked up the headers. He is truly an ambassador of these cars and a great guy to know and converse with. Will you need to clearance the lower edge for the exhaust tip?


Hey Rob, thanks, yes it is "some assembly required" sawzall-smiley.gif and you have to make the cut out for the exhaust but I don't think it will be a big deal. I hope.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 3 2017, 03:16 PM

QUOTE(defianty @ Sep 3 2017, 01:09 PM) *

I like the rear valance. I have a similar one made by a guy in Germany to go on my GT. For a road car I personally think they look better with the valance than the raw GT look.


agree.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 3 2017, 03:26 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 3 2017, 01:34 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Sep 3 2017, 04:27 PM) *

QUOTE(defianty @ Sep 3 2017, 12:09 PM) *

I like the rear valance. I have a similar one made by a guy in Germany to go on my GT. For a road car I personally think they look better with the valance than the raw GT look.

agree.gif

Once get to it I will be making weld flares for the stock steel valance just like I do for the rockers.

Ben - I'm just going to send you my car - and a bunch of cash. It will be easier in the long run. biggrin.gif

Lucky - great job getting the parts together. MSDS makes awesome stuff for our cars.


Thanks Mark for the tip and your other help along the way. Great community and support.


Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 4 2017, 01:39 PM

Dust off the trans.

Note that the trans had been gone through and intermediate plate added for 914-6, a new gear, bearing, and gaskets while under PO moparrobs ownership. Should be ready to go!

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Next is the trans shift arm fix recommendation that comes by way of Forrestkhaag.

It’s a 10 cent fix!

He called it "the shaved head dime". Yes it takes a bit to file it down to fit in the cup hole.

Do yourself a favor and do a search and check out forrestkhaag’s posts regarding trying to resolve shifting issues on his 914-6 conversion. He truly has been through the wringer. Best of all his tip came to me via a PM from him on another subject, he just offered it. I definitely took his advise even though I already had the new bushing installed, yup I dug out a brand new never used bushing and ordered another. They do not like to come out nicely either! Scraped the arm all up trying to get the dang bushing out.

The story is that after fighting gear “nash” issues Leamon gave forrestkhaaag the same advise and it fixed it!

This is a great site!

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Posted by: lonewolfe Sep 4 2017, 02:22 PM

Replace the bushing with a dime?

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 4 2017, 03:23 PM

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Sep 4 2017, 01:22 PM) *

Replace the bushing with a dime?


Oooops sorry wasn't clear no insert the dime then install the new bushing. It is working to space the bushing up a bit is all. Changes the arm position closer to the clutch.

Posted by: lonewolfe Sep 4 2017, 03:32 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 4 2017, 02:23 PM) *

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Sep 4 2017, 01:22 PM) *

Replace the bushing with a dime?


Oooops sorry wasn't clear no insert the dime then install the new bushing. It is working to space the bushing up a bit is all. Changes the arm position closer to the clutch.


That makes more sense to me. Is this mod only for the 914-6 or for 914-4's as well?

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 4 2017, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Sep 4 2017, 02:32 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 4 2017, 02:23 PM) *

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Sep 4 2017, 01:22 PM) *

Replace the bushing with a dime?


Oooops sorry wasn't clear no insert the dime then install the new bushing. It is working to space the bushing up a bit is all. Changes the arm position closer to the clutch.


That makes more sense to me. Is this mod only for the 914-6 or for 914-4's as well?


May have to defer to someone with a lot more experience on that possibly Leamon who I do not know but advised forrestkhaag. I will see what else I can learn. Fair question though.

Posted by: gms Sep 4 2017, 05:19 PM

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Sep 4 2017, 04:32 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 4 2017, 02:23 PM) *

QUOTE(lonewolfe @ Sep 4 2017, 01:22 PM) *

Replace the bushing with a dime?


Oooops sorry wasn't clear no insert the dime then install the new bushing. It is working to space the bushing up a bit is all. Changes the arm position closer to the clutch.


That makes more sense to me. Is this mod only for the 914-6 or for 914-4's as well?

the lever arm is the same on both 914/4 and /6

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 4 2017, 07:59 PM

I didn't do the dime bag trick and my clutch is fine.

Just saying.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 4 2017, 08:45 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 4 2017, 06:59 PM) *

I didn't do the dime bag trick and my clutch is fine.

Just saying.


Glad you got yours running yesterday! driving.gif Nice work!
Oh well maybe it will help mine. confused24.gif


Posted by: porschetub Sep 5 2017, 01:03 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 5 2017, 01:59 PM) *

I didn't do the dime bag trick and my clutch is fine.

Just saying.


I think this modification would suit those who have machined flywheels confused24.gif ,I would say that a shim washer under the pivot ball would do the same thing,I don't really know if there is enough thread to support that,surely would do the same job.
Reason I mentioned as I believe I have the same issue as forrest had but to a lesser extent,just feel like the lever isn't moving enough.......
At the moment I live in hope my trans isn't stromberg.gif .

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Sep 5 2017, 10:29 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 4 2017, 06:59 PM) *

I didn't do the dime bag trick and my clutch is fine.

Just saying.


Lawrence...I think the 914World has the best nicknames around any of the car forums; Dime Bag (too funny / as in Ceech + Chong), taco plate, hell hole, narp...Not Hijacking this thread; back to your scheduled program biggrin.gif
Marty

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 6 2017, 10:56 AM

Kennedy Conversion Flywheel and Kennedy Stage II Clutch back in place.

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Trans and starter back on, the last 2 pieces of sheet metal, and finish the Perry Kiehl wiring harness hook up.

Now on to addressing the intake manifolds.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 7 2017, 09:59 AM

Porting my brand new intake manifolds.

Wow, these new manifolds sure look nice! And I’m going to grind on them? WTF.gif
This operation does not sound like fun. Porting is a new one to me and one problem I have is that while I like doing most things once so doing anything 6 times is pure torture. head_hurts_kr.gif Ugh!

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PO was generous enough to mail me his “porting kit”. How’s that for support! Thanks moparrob!! No more excuses now I have to do it!

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To start with, I just have to say that I was concerned about tackling this project with brand new manifolds as they were quite an investment and not something to screw up!
I am sure there are many out there that have done this and it would be no biggie to them.
So here goes……………..

I was looking for something around the house to use to model the ported hole size to and it turns out that a ping pong ball is almost exactly the correct size I need. Who knew? Disclaimer: I didn't realize that I had only 3 China ping pong balls to choose from.
That's the insulator and the diameter I am going to be working to.

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Transfer insulator diameter to manifold, and you can see the difference in size and how much material has to come out with no gouges or scarfing up the flange surface! No Pressure!!!!

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More to come................................


Posted by: mepstein Sep 7 2017, 11:01 AM

Get a scap piece of aluminum, cut a hole in it. Them work on "porting" it. Always practice a new procedure on scrap before you do the real thing. Pretty universal.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 7 2017, 11:36 AM

Tried starting with grinding wheels, first the one from the kit. Yup loads right up just like I thought it would with aluminum. I think it was meant to grind on a Chevy manifold. I even resurrected a coarse stone that I had from eons ago. And that one loaded right up too!
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Well this ain’t working. So off to the hardware store and search for a solution. Came up with this jewel of a carbide rotary file burr tool FOR ALUMINUM. What a great find! The girl at the hardware store even remarked “isn’t it pretty?” and I had to agree. $33.00 pretty. Didn’t even need that grinding wheel in the picture it was only for back up.
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Man that burr tool is amazing but I can see how you can get in big trouble real fast though. Slow and easy but it cuts like butter. Runner finish is a close match to as new, actually got it even closer after this pic.
Enlarged runner in process left and original runner right.
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Developed a process which yielded a good runner finish very close to what the manifolds came with by using these tools in this order left to right.
Carbide burr, 60 grit roll, 80 grit roll, coarse scotch brite and fine scotch brite.
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Not so bad just tedious and time consuming plus knowing there are 6 total to do.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 7 2017, 11:49 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 7 2017, 10:01 AM) *

Get a scap piece of aluminum, cut a hole in it. Them work on "porting" it. Always practice a new procedure on scrap before you do the real thing. Pretty universal.



Thanks for the tip Mark but I had so much material to remove that there was plenty of practice right in front of me. Start off slow is all. Have plenty of wood working experience in shaping just different tools and material is all.

Going well more to post and that is time consuming too but I wanted to share this experience.

Thanks for weighing in.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 7 2017, 11:57 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 7 2017, 01:49 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 7 2017, 10:01 AM) *

Get a scap piece of aluminum, cut a hole in it. Them work on "porting" it. Always practice a new procedure on scrap before you do the real thing. Pretty universal.



Thanks for the tip Mark but I had so much material to remove that there was plenty of practice right in front of me. Start off slow is all. Have plenty of wood working experience in shaping just different tools and material is all.

Going well more to post and that is time consuming too but I wanted to share this experience.

Thanks for weighing in.

If you have wood experience then you are ahead of the game. You already know it's easier to remove than put it back. Good luck.

Posted by: moparrob Sep 7 2017, 01:11 PM

Looking awesome. I'm glad someone is putting those porting tools to good use.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 8 2017, 11:04 AM

[quote name='moparrob' date='Sep 7 2017, 12:11 PM' post='2525302']
Looking awesome. I'm glad someone is putting those porting tools to good use.
[/quote

Thanks Rob!

These are billed as 40/36 manifolds but they actually measured 35mm so I am really going from 35 to 38mm.
It is a lot of alum to remove and that carbide burr works perfect for this job!.

In process on right side
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Metal removed from just one runner
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The ping pong ball fit check
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 8 2017, 11:40 AM

First hole done!

That would be the obviously larger one in the center.
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How it matches up to the insulator
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And before and after with the ping pong ball really gives sense of the size. Yes that is the same ball.
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OK now just 2 more runners on this manifold with no mistakes!
Working good so far........

Posted by: mepstein Sep 8 2017, 11:55 AM

Liar ! You've done this before. biggrin.gif
Or it least it looks that way beerchug.gif

Posted by: moparrob Sep 8 2017, 02:38 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 8 2017, 10:55 AM) *

Liar ! You've done this before. biggrin.gif
Or it least it looks that way beerchug.gif


No, all of Jim's work is that way. I have been to his house and between his amazing woodworking skills in his kitchen, as well as the several other cars he has already restored, it is clear he has good skills and patience. Don't let his modesty fool you.

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Sep 8 2017, 03:12 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 8 2017, 10:40 AM) *

First hole done!

That would be the obviously larger one in the center.
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How it matches up to the insulator
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And before and after with the ping pong ball really gives sense of the size. Yes that is the same ball.
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OK now just 2 more runners on this manifold with no mistakes!
Working good so far........


Mil-Spec...just paint it OD green aktion035.gif

Posted by: whitetwinturbo Sep 8 2017, 09:18 PM

popcorn[1].gif sawzall-smiley.gif popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 8 2017, 09:36 PM

QUOTE(moparrob @ Sep 8 2017, 01:38 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 8 2017, 10:55 AM) *

Liar ! You've done this before. biggrin.gif
Or it least it looks that way beerchug.gif


No, all of Jim's work is that way. I have been to his house and between his amazing woodworking skills in his kitchen, as well as the several other cars he has already restored, it is clear he has good skills and patience. Don't let his modesty fool you.



Thanks guys I need all the moral support I can get.
We have all ground on metal at one time or another but I have to say expensive new aluminum manifolds was a first for me. smile.gif

One manifold done! It sure does dress up that engine! Next one close behind now.

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Thanks for checking in white914.jpg


Posted by: defianty Sep 9 2017, 11:01 AM

Fantastic job on the porting. What size are the inlet ports? Have they been ported too?

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 9 2017, 11:26 AM

QUOTE(defianty @ Sep 9 2017, 10:01 AM) *

Fantastic job on the porting. What size are the inlet ports? Have they been ported too?


Great to hear from the UK again! Thanks man!

The inlet ports are billed as 40 but actually measure 41mm, so no they are not ported further than received. Thanks for checking in.
white914.jpg

Posted by: defianty Sep 9 2017, 11:37 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 9 2017, 06:26 PM) *

QUOTE(defianty @ Sep 9 2017, 10:01 AM) *

Fantastic job on the porting. What size are the inlet ports? Have they been ported too?


Great to hear from the UK again! Thanks man!

The inlet ports are billed as 40 but actually measure 41mm, so no they are not ported further than received. Thanks for checking in.
white914.jpg


41mm that's the same as mine then. I'm trying to ascertain as to whether my 3.0L 930/10 engine is standard as I thought 41mm was rather big. I think I've got a lot to learn! laugh.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 10:29 AM

Both manifolds on......... Sure glad that is done!

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Love this shot!

Big hole clear down to the valve!
Well, that ought to work!
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 10:58 AM

Did I think I would spend an entire afternoon yesterday on my accelerator linkage? Nooooooooooo

Disclaimer on the following posts “my linkage may be different than your linkage”.

Thought it might be a good idea to check out my carb linkage while the engine still easily accessible.
Turned out to be one of the best decisions I could possibly make!
As I got into it I thought I would document my Weber carb linkage set up.
Maybe someone has posted it on the site already but I couldn’t find it.
I am a lousy searcher.

I learned so much in the process and if I had waited to do this after the engine was installed I would have been up and down and a half million times and needed a second person to help and it would have been a real pain in the ass! I can see that now.

To Start:
Tried to put my linkage on. Didn’t get far. Unfortunately my linkage has been sitting for several years now and that sitting had taken its toll. The linkage arm ends that go on the pivot balls were dried out inside, and they were corroded plus that little cir-clip inside the linkage arm end that captures the ball was non functional. Stuck in its groove.

OK so stop right there and clean up every linkage end and polish up the little pivot balls. Unfortunately, I neglected to take pics of all that ugliness.
Key is cleaning all linkage attachment points and applying a good grease to every moving part.

While you are at it, make sure the rod ends work freely in the threaded part of the linkage arm end as well. Mine did not, some only screwed in half way. Make sure they actually screw in all the way because you just may just need that last bit of thread as I later discovered. WD40 is your friend here.
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I needed to turn a difficult/ stuck rod ends and a 10 mm open end wrench works great for that. Protect that rod in a vise.
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Next step, install the brackets for the cross bar to the intake manifolds followed by the cross bar.

As you know these are new intake manifolds in my case so who knows how this will go? I mean this was all together once but with different manifolds. Should still work though, right?

Now with the uprights loosely installed and grease in the sockets and also on the cross bar ball ends, tighten the bolts to the manifolds.

Nope, not even close to rotating freely.

Bit of tweaking on the uprights to release the inward pressure on the bar to free it up but still just enough tension to keep it well contained.
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 11:11 AM

Reverse lever positioning.

I found this to be about the right position as shown. Note inboard arm just a little past 12 o’clock and outboard arm a little past 3 o’clock. It is important that the outer arm not be much higher than shown as the arm should be beginning the downward movement. Your arm may be different.
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While at the same time the top triangular reverse lever almost horizontal across the top.
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So, you have a hand on the trans end and the other hand on the upper pivot and you can feel when the linkage if is over extended and there actually is kind of a sweet spot and of course checking for binding. Adjust the long link as necessary to achieve.
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Now remove the long accelerator linkage going to the trans and install the piece of linkage running from the cross bar to the reverse lever and check that for free movement. Note the linkage is set to have the triangle reverse lever flat across the top and the attachment arm on the cross bar is vertical.
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This link is critical to the set up. You may have to play with this linkage arm, because it is a very fine line between too long and too short, as it really affects the arms that go to the carbs from the cross bar. I actually think this arm on mine could be longer because I only had about 6 tread engagement at both ends. A little longer makes for longer arms at the carbs and my carb arms ended up very short.
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 11:22 AM

Reattach the lower long linkage that goes over the rear axel to the trans and check free of movement.

All linkage has now been checked for free movement and is together.
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Now try to hook up ONE carb link to ONE carb and I started with the right carb.
I chose this carb as it is the furthest away from the linkage on the other side of the engine/ trans actuator. Adjust the carb lever arm to maintain the locations of triangle reverse lever and trans pivot noted earlier.
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Note how the top of the triangle reverse lever is level across the top making sure it ended up where I wanted it when all assembled.
While making adjustments, disconnect the carb arm when doing so, and re-set the carb link length when done. My 2 cents.

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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 11:34 AM

From the trans reverse lever pivot
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Get ready to actuate the mechanism by hand. Looking at the carb. note the closed position shown in the middle of this pic. Look at the bottom of the spring.
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Now actuate the mechanism and make sure it rotates/ opens all the way down to the stop shown (this is the carb. main shaft rotation stop as it comes in contact with the carb housing).
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Should adjustment be necessary start here
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But disconnect the carb linkage first and then re –adjust the carb link to match. In my opinion this is very important.

I still did not even have the left carb on at this point.
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Now install and hook up the second carb and link.
Adjust this carb. link to fit the already fully adjusted linkage and make sure it matches the ball height exactly before attaching.
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Actuate linkage from the trans again to make sure you have full travel on both carbs. to the full open stops. I would expect some minor adjustment to the carb arms but it should be set very close at this point.

Done. Hope this helps someone.

Posted by: bigkensteele Sep 10 2017, 07:29 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 10 2017, 09:34 AM) *

Done. Hope this helps someone.

This helps me a great deal! I am pulling together a Weber setup, and the carbs I bought only came with the manifolds, the side plates and the rear pivot. Your latest posts have helped me identify what I still need as well as how to set it all up. Thanks!!! beerchug.gif

Posted by: gereed75 Sep 10 2017, 08:07 PM

There is a ton of info on the Performance Oriented web site about setting up Webers, including info on "blue printing" the linkages.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 09:06 PM

QUOTE(bigkensteele @ Sep 10 2017, 06:29 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 10 2017, 09:34 AM) *

Done. Hope this helps someone.

This helps me a great deal! I am pulling together a Weber setup, and the carbs I bought only came with the manifolds, the side plates and the rear pivot. Your latest posts have helped me identify what I still need as well as how to set it all up. Thanks!!! beerchug.gif



Glad I could help!

I see the post right behind yours says Performance Oriented has a lot of info too so now we both learned something. I knew there was a lot of Carb info on the Performance Oriented site but not regarding the linkage on the engine itself.
Thanks for checking in and good luck on your project!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 10 2017, 09:11 PM

QUOTE(gereed75 @ Sep 10 2017, 07:07 PM) *

There is a ton of info on the Performance Oriented web site about setting up Webers, including info on "blue printing" the linkages.


Thanks gereed75 I should have known, that Paul is such a thorough guy. He did my carbs and I remember looking at a lot on his site on the time but obviously it didn't stick that he had linkage info.
Appreciate the input and I will check it out.
Thanks for weighing in.

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 10 2017, 10:00 PM

I'm having issues with my linkage. We worked it a bit yesterday, but I'm not really happy with it. I like your set up better than mine. Mine is the Rich Johnson set, and, well, I like yours better.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 11 2017, 10:42 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 10 2017, 09:00 PM) *

I'm having issues with my linkage. We worked it a bit yesterday, but I'm not really happy with it. I like your set up better than mine. Mine is the Rich Johnson set, and, well, I like yours better.


Larmo63, Sorry to hear you are having linkage issues, that's a bummer!

Thanks on my linkage set up! It came with the project and works, but I have no idea whose it is and can't recommend.

My only complaint is that there is no flats on the rod ends like on my long linkage from the trans and that makes tightening each rod end a bit more difficult. I had to remove each segment to tighten each rod end stop nut because otherwise the rod end socket would turn as I tightened the stop nut and the rod end would end up twisted tight against the ball potentially causing binding. Hard to explain I guess.

My long linkage is Porsche over the trans (right in picture) has the flats on the rod end making it much easier to tighten the stop nut. And on the left in picture has rod end with no flats and the stop nut.
All the best in getting it sorted out! white914.jpg
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 11 2017, 11:09 PM

Well almost to that point……………………

Rearranged the garage and cars today and got these two sweethearts closer together. They are just winking at each other right now and getting acquainted because this is probably the closest they have come yet!

Should go in this week!

My "install, hook up, and get it running" will not go as fast as Larmo63, who I have been following pretty close, because I think I have a few more “details” in front of me. At least I think I do because he had a running car, which I didn't, when he started his conversion. Got some install insight from him just tonight.

Still will have to get one more braided line made from the tank to the engine and I have some extenuating circumstances with my emergency brake to figure out that I will cover on the thread. Plus there still are some dreaded electrical issues to deal with and that is certainly my least ability. On the electrical, I will have to do like a total refresh/re-learn because I had to side line this project from Dec 2015 to April 2017, and I have been only focused on the engine since April. Well I did order cool visors from Mikey. I also have a pretty good list with several other fun challenges.

Plus I need to get with forrestkhaag and find out where he put all these fuel filters he keeps taking about. laugh.gif

Someone recently said they were 90% done with 90% to go. Yup kind of feels like that.

My plan is to get the whole car up on stands once again when I get the engine in the mounts and then go from there.
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white914.jpg

Posted by: Retroracer Sep 12 2017, 04:53 AM

This is all great info for someone looking at a 6 conversion. One other point to watch out for - as I recently noticed this issue on my car, post-install - is to make sure the plug wires clear the throttle linkage on the left carb. Some of your pictures highlight the issue on the #4 wire. If you have super long wires then this is not an issue, but routing options can be limited on some sets.

Much easier to see if you're doing this with the engine out, also guiding / nailing down the plug wires is easier too.

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 12 2017, 09:48 AM

I'm not sure why all of your spark plug wires aren't going through the holes in the manifolds?

Just wondered.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 12 2017, 10:55 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 12 2017, 08:48 AM) *

I'm not sure why all of your spark plug wires aren't going through the holes in the manifolds?

Just wondered.


Good point! I never was real happy with the way that looked but it just seemed the #4 wire was too short to go through the manifold and look "right".

So one would think that the wire lengths would necessarily coincide with the locations by length but it turns out not so in my case with these wires. WTF.gif confused24.gif

The #6 seemed a bit too long so ended up shooting it through the same hole I had the #5 and it looked ok and was a good way to use up some of that wire length. But the that left no room for the #4 to fit through the same grommet in the manifold. Three wires would not fit through the forward grommet. In addition when I had tried the #4 through the grommet initially it was pretty much taught because of its location on the dist being near the bottom, it had a long way to go. So I left the #4 to go around the end of the manifold and was not real happy with it but it worked.

The fix: I reversed the wires on the #4 and #5 both on the dist. and the plugs.

By moving the longer $5 wire to #4 plug and #4 position near the bottom on the dist. it fits great and looks right.

The shorter now fits well on the #5 because of the higher position on the dist. and the more direct shot to the #5.

Yup looks better.
Thanks! white914.jpg
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 13 2017, 11:57 AM

Little project I’d been putting off was the engine sump plate. Mine was not in that great a shape so I ordered a new one from EBS Racing, where I get a lot of my new stuff, and had it sitting on the shelf ready to go. It was reasonably priced at about $11.00. I specifically wanted one with the drain plug. When I got to the point of assembly I discovered the original magnetic plug would not work in the new plate. The new plate was made so that the plug went in more like a pipe plug and so there was no sealing ring flat for the old plug to seal against. I returned the new plate and figured I’d somehow make do or get another plate. You see Porsche does not make the original type plate anymore. Maybe they should.

It seemed to me that the best solution would be to have a clamp ring that fit the bolt circle on the plate because those tiny 6mm washers and nuts had been over tightened so many times they had deformed the plate.
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Did some hammer reshaping of the bolt circle where it had been pulled by the 6mm nuts and then ground the plate flat.
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This project then went to the back burner in hopes a solution would emerge until now.

I couldn’t really think of a way to make a clamp ring myself as it would need some precision to fit within the inner and outer diameter of the bolt circle and would need the holes drilled pretty accurately. So I looked for slightly larger diameter washers but had no luck, because again, there is not a whole lot of real estate for larger washers.
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 13 2017, 12:07 PM

Having come up with no solution and now needing to install the plate, and wanting some sort of fix, I contemplated making my own elongated clamp washers. But before I went down that path I searched on line with no luck and then contacted Pelican Parts, Patrick Motor Sports, Summit Racing, and EBS Racing in search of a better idea. I was surprised PMS just used the new plate like what I had returned, no magnetic drain plug. Hmmmm. EBS had what is called a billet plate machined out of aluminum. Nice piece but a bit too pricey for me at $87. a pop.
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Made 8 clamp washers out of large flat washers from Home Depot. They are right at 1/8” thick so they should more evenly provide clamping.
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Here they are with only 4 complete. I like it and yes there is still room for that damn little nut. white914.jpg
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 13 2017, 06:13 PM

Getting the rear axles out of the way to get ready to install the engine. piratenanner.gif

My good friend toolguy suggested using a piece of 1/2” metal conduit as a support to hold up the rear axles and get them way up out of the way. I had PM’d Larma63 the other night looking for insight, since he had just gone through all this, only to recall right after hitting send I actually did have a tiny bit of experience on installing a 6. Larmo63 got back to me fairly quickly with some good pointers so thanks Larmo63 for that. beerchug.gif

Recall my car came to me with no engine installed. So although I have installed engines in 911’s, I had not actually done it myself on a 914, either in or out.

I had lent toolguy a hand on an install a couple years ago and totally forgot. Well actually not much of a hand, I functioned as a spotter, mostly. When I arrived he was completely ready install a 6 in a real 6 car. Car up in the air, axles tied up, engine on jack, blocks of wood at the ready, engine all lined up. It went so fast it was over in a minute, of course this was not his first rodeo. So I really didn’t help a whole lot, I did take pictures only to loose them off my phone, another sad story. sad.gif

The conduit shown is 42” long and tied off to the shock springs, providing the opportunity to tie the axles up more toward the center of the conduit. This positions the wire from the axle to the conduit right at the end of the axle and also away from the boot.

Of course I realized while under there tying up I had some unfinished business back there that I also forgot about. headbang.gif Gonna be a bit longer!
white914.jpg
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 14 2017, 10:22 AM

Toolguy suggested marking my flywheel with timing marks before stuffing the engine. pray.gif Only real 6 engines came with the flywheels marked and he's got one!

I already have the access hole cut through the cabin firewall but you never know you just might want to throw a timing light on it when you are right there with the distributor. Good point!

And especially with the 914-6 sheet metal having the cut out and the fly wheel staring right at me. I am going the share the good the bad and the ugly in my postings. As you will see in the pictures that Kennedy flywheel is damn hard and the punch wants to jump and trying to correct is futile. I look like such a hack in these shots, mission accomplished, but not real pretty. Lesson here is probably should have removed the rear sheet metal it might have made it better. headbang.gif Good luck if you try something similar! You really only get one chance to do it.
white914.jpg

Shot of cut out and flywheel with no marking
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Here is the Z1 mark
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And a faint 5 degrees mark
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Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 14 2017, 12:13 PM

My KEP 228mm flywheel was marked already. Strange.

Posted by: porschetub Sep 14 2017, 01:49 PM

Nice solution for the sump plate ,mine was had it because someone had added extra gaskets and overtightened it,replaced it with the one Pelican sell.
I found the axles were a pain so I removed the RH side before my engine went in,but what I forgot to do was mark my flywheel headbang.gif .
Your builds going great.....not long to fire up time aktion035.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 15 2017, 09:56 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 14 2017, 11:13 AM) *

My KEP 228mm flywheel was marked already. Strange.


After reading your comment I went and double checked my flywheel last night to make sure I had not missed any marks. Nothing there but my marks. WTF.gif

This morning I called Kennedy Engineering and spoke to Brett. Here is the skinny.

6 bolt crank they mark (yours I believe) and you have a 2.7 right?

9 bolt crank they do not (mine) my engine is a 3.0

Mystery solved! beerchug.gif
white914.jpg

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 15 2017, 09:33 PM

Today was a big day for me. Engine goes in today!

I possibly have the best wife in the world because not only does she support me with all my cars and car craziness, she helps where she can, and today this was waiting on my work bench this morning! Yes that is a cheesy fried egg, my favorite and YES I am one lucky guy! grouphug.gif
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I made this wooden cart a couple years ago for storage and mobility because I knew it would be a while before the engine went in. It was designed at such a height that a floor jack would fit under it with my “special tool” (details later). It was also designed so that when the time came the rear 2X4 cross brace would literally be cut out with a saw. That would then allow the jack to go underneath and the engine, even without the rear cross brace, would still be completely supported.
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Here is the cross brace cut out and I had safety blocks on each side but I actually did not need them. Additionally, I had the jack positioned under the aft of the tranny for support as well, but did not need that either. Cart was way sturdier than I thought!
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 15 2017, 09:38 PM

Jack slides right under and there is the “special tool” I referred to earlier on the jack pad. smile.gif
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Engine is now completely on the jack only with tranny slightly resting on the jack by the handle, almost balanced fore to aft.
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 15 2017, 09:44 PM

Remove the cart and the engine was actually very stable on the jack. I credit the special tool. smile.gif The special tool is located on the sump plate mostly and the engine case just before the hump.
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I don’t know how, luck I guess, but the car was exactly at the right height to roll the engine under the bumper, coil and all.
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And it just rolls right forward. Opps you're not suppose to see that cable hanging down on the floor. huh.gif
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 15 2017, 09:50 PM

Here we come
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Bring me on home
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Even though the engine felt and was very balanced I‘m not an idiot, I still used support blocks under each side while jacking it up. smile.gif
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 15 2017, 10:04 PM

That forward engine mount shown here was installed by PO morarrob and it appears to be an excellent job.
Good thing because it is welded in and I know he took a lot of time figuring it out and installing it.
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Up and past the axles
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And there we are home at last it sure looks good in there!
My goal was to install this week and I made it.
Have to say it went very well, did it all myself, with my lovely wife as the spotter. smlove2.gif driving-girl.gif
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And the “special tool” is 3/4” ply 5 ½ X 7 3/4 Worked great! tongue.gif

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Hope to see some of you at 914 Day in Temecula! Wish the white914.jpg was done to bring.

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 15 2017, 10:36 PM

You might want to get a patent on the "special tool" before someone else does.

slap.gif

Posted by: defianty Sep 16 2017, 12:55 AM

Nicely done. Getting close to that finishing line now.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 19 2017, 11:53 AM

A little progress and a little humor.

Since the wonderful 914 Fun Day in Temecula last Saturday hosted by ValcoOscar with the help of many others beerchug.gif , where I learned a great deal from other 916-6 conversion owners Forrestkhaag and Larmo63, as well as a beginning insight into the Weber world from Keith914, I got back to white914.jpg it yesterday. Having installed the engine in on the mounts last Friday everyone wants to know when I’m going to “fire it up”? I say probably 2 months and based on the entire afternoon spent below I’m probably right. sad.gif

As I am sure many of you know by now and from the title of this thread I have taken up where another left off. Obviously I did not take it apart so mostly I am working to pictures and looking at other peoples cars. The best part for me though is that the PO sourced a lot of very fine parts with which to continue and now I am actually installing some of those parts I have been looking at for almost 4 years now. Ugh!

Yesterday was shifter linkage day! mueba.gif

This is a 74 car with side shifter, so in my treasure trove of parts was a brand new shift rod (body to trans) which is modified for headers. A beautiful piece still in its packaging that moparrob found as well as a brass trans bushing with 914 PN in its original bag dated 11/4/2010. I actually had everything needed boots and all. Took a bit of figuring out which way to install the bushing (shoulder in or out) and I understand the bushing was originally nylon like the other shifter bushings. Got that done and now time to button it up with the big plastic cover and secure it with the retaining strap. I think I got one of those. idea.gif
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Here is the funny part.
I actually had that “strap” that goes around the plastic housing and identified by PN for the application, and of all things, in an actual Porsche part bag.
It’s a Ty-wrap! lol-2.gif

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Now I can’t say for sure if I bought it or it came with the parts I got but I thought it was a little cool to have an “actual” P part. Even though it is just a Ty-wrap.

Turned out to be too short! headbang.gif
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I ended up using .041 safety wire and it holds it just fine. On to the braided oil hoses. white914.jpg

Posted by: porschetub Sep 19 2017, 04:53 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 20 2017, 05:53 AM) *

A little progress and a little humor.

Since the wonderful 914 Fun Day in Temecula last Saturday hosted by ValcoOscar with the help of many others beerchug.gif , where I learned a great deal from other 916-6 conversion owners Forrestkhaag and Larmo63, as well as a beginning insight into the Weber world from Keith914, I got back to white914.jpg it yesterday. Having installed the engine in on the mounts last Friday everyone wants to know when I’m going to “fire it up”? I say probably 2 months and based on the entire afternoon spent below I’m probably right. sad.gif

As I am sure many of you know by now and from the title of this thread I have taken up where another left off. Obviously I did not take it apart so mostly I am working to pictures and looking at other peoples cars. The best part for me though is that the PO sourced a lot of very fine parts with which to continue and now I am actually installing some of those parts I have been looking at for almost 4 years now. Ugh!

Yesterday was shifter linkage day! mueba.gif

This is a 74 car with side shifter, so in my treasure trove of parts was a brand new shift rod (body to trans) which is modified for headers. A beautiful piece still in its packaging that moparrob found as well as a brass trans bushing with 914 PN in its original bag dated 11/4/2010. I actually had everything needed boots and all. Took a bit of figuring out which way to install the bushing (shoulder in or out) and I understand the bushing was originally nylon like the other shifter bushings. Got that done and now time to button it up with the big plastic cover and secure it with the retaining strap. I think I got one of those. idea.gif




Here is the funny part.
I actually had that “strap” that goes around the plastic housing and identified by PN for the application, and of all things, in an actual Porsche part bag.
It’s a Ty-wrap! lol-2.gif



Now I can’t say for sure if I bought it or it came with the parts I got but I thought it was a little cool to have an “actual” P part. Even though it is just a Ty-wrap.

Turned out to be too short! headbang.gif


I ended up using .041 safety wire and it holds it just fine. On to the braided oil hoses. white914.jpg


Well done ,looking really nice ,even if you aren't due start it for a while it's still a really good feeling to have the engine in there,least it was for me.
I used those console bushes and found they were a little sloppy so I had a machinist make me up and oversize rod and did this;
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Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 19 2017, 06:38 PM

You can source a large, narrow hose clamp at Home Depot or Lowe's that is used for Dryer exhaust hose. It works and fits perfect.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 20 2017, 09:53 AM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 19 2017, 03:53 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 20 2017, 05:53 AM) *

A little progress and a little humor.

Yesterday was shifter linkage day!

This is a 74 car with side shifter, so in my treasure trove of parts was a brand new shift rod (body to trans) which is modified for headers. A beautiful piece still in its packaging that moparrob found as well as a brass trans bushing with 914 PN in its original bag dated 11/4/2010. I actually had everything needed boots and all. Took a bit of figuring out which way to install the bushing (shoulder in or out) and I understand the bushing was originally nylon like the other shifter bushings. Got that done and now time to button it up with the big plastic cover and secure it with the retaining strap. I think I got one of those. idea.gif




Well done ,looking really nice ,even if you aren't due start it for a while it's still a really good feeling to have the engine in there,least it was for me.
I used those console bushes and found they were a little sloppy so I had a machinist make me up and oversize rod and did this;
Attached Image


Thanks for the idea that is a very robust design and I can see it is a major improvement because to your point it is a bit "sloppy".

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 20 2017, 07:49 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 19 2017, 05:38 PM) *

You can source a large, narrow hose clamp at Home Depot or Lowe's that is used for Dryer exhaust hose. It works and fits perfect.


Larmo63 is right a dryer hose clamp fits perfect and is installed. No Picture just imagine a hose clamp. smile.gif

Spent a fair amount of time laying out my last 2 oil hoses today. Oil tank to engine oil cooler (on the left) was not bad because I had already developed hoses from the tank to near the original engine mount. Getting made tomorrow.
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Thermostat on firewall to engine is going to be a bit of a cluster because of the close proximity to the engine mount.
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Many of my hoses were already made by the PO with considerable investment and thought. The front oil cooler hose routing through the air passages in the longs was the intended design, as well as the thermostat location, which I followed through on and installed because I though it was a good plan and I liked the idea. Getting from that 90 on the thermostat to the engine will be fun. I may not post pictures of the completed solution if you know what I mean. biggrin.gif

Learned the other day that Larmo 63 made his own hoses and I saw them at least the ones by the front oil cooler and they looked great! I was impressed.

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 20 2017, 08:19 PM

You should be okay with that hose there, just mock it up and have your guy make it. The less unions in the hose, the better.

Looks good!!

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 23 2017, 11:27 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 20 2017, 07:19 PM) *

You should be okay with that hose there, just mock it up and have your guy make it. The less unions in the hose, the better.

Looks good!!


Thanks!
Last couple of days have been dedicated mostly to oil lines, the last 2 braided oil lines that is.

Mocked up and then made by my “guy”, well actually it's a she and she has made several really accurate AN hoses for this car in the past. Next post has the details. and yes less unions is the goal!
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 23 2017, 11:44 AM

First up was the AN16 with straight end and 30 deg end. Decided a bit of 800 degree shield would be good next to the header too.
Attached Image

A couple years ago when I ran the AN12 front oil cooler lines through the heater tubes to the engine bay it all made sense and I liked it. Having an elbow coming out of the thermostat right next to engine mount seemed tight but ok.
Now, with the engine in place that hose is a bit of a challenge, and like Learmo63 says, the fewer the elbows the better.

My last post said jokingly that I may not post pictures but I am now happy with what I ended up with. So pictures there will be!

I always liked an original 911 hard line concept; tight bend out of the block, close to the engine and drain tubes plus away from headers. So I shortened a 911 hard line, bent, and had a fitting tig welded to the end. This hard line is similar to the PMS line they sell for $160 and I did it for $42. I had the line cut 2 years ago just waiting for the engine install.

Have to say the first hose approach was a bunch of close proximity elbows and it was nuts.
The big spiral approach is going to be it! Just a bit of clamping and I’m done with oil system.

Seems like baby steps but progress none the same. And many thanks to my hose"guy"
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Posted by: 914forme Sep 23 2017, 05:32 PM

confused24.gif are your zip ties also 800 degrees resistant confused24.gif

They make ss zip ties, or you can use ss safety wire, and just twist it on the end.

Everything else is looking great, making much more progress than I am, keep it up.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 23 2017, 08:03 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 23 2017, 04:32 PM) *

confused24.gif are your zip ties also 800 degrees resistant confused24.gif

They make ss zip ties, or you can use ss safety wire, and just twist it on the end.

Everything else is looking great, making much more progress than I am, keep it up.



Thanks!
Good point they are not! I was looking at that when I got done. idea.gif
Safety wire it is! agree.gif
Thanks for looking in! Hope you're making progress on your project. beerchug.gif


Posted by: maf914 Sep 24 2017, 06:04 AM

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?




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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 25 2017, 01:32 PM

2015
Seat Rail Cross Member Repair Sept / Oct 2015
Not sure why I didn’t post before but a host of reasons as things came to a screeching halt the end of 2015.

Disclaimer:
You have to cut me some slack here as I had not owned a 914 prior to this and it came with giant 911 seats just sitting in it not bolted in at all. When I originally took the seats out I noticed there was no seat bracket anything, so I knew I had a problem right there. But you don’t know what you don’t know.

By Sept 2015 I had spent countless hours IN the car with wiring and the rear firewall insulation and never, and I mean never, noticed until one day I was looking at pictures of an interior on 914 World (and that just might be Andy’s) and I saw this beauty.
Look at this perfect yellow floor, mine is ugly one below sad.gif
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Do you see what I saw? The damn cross rail did not go all the way across the drivers side on mine, I mean WTF? Now I realized I was really was missing something! It was cut completely off! sawzall-smiley.gif Welds ground like it was never there!! All the hinge brackets and hinges gone! Flat floor! Covered with a patchwork of sound deadening. I do know the owner before moparrob had Sparco seat but not much more than that. Passenger side seat hinges ground off.
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Well shit I got to fix this at least for structural integrity anyway and I wanted to be able to run stock seats and who knows maybe someday Scheels ( I mean I saw Larmo63’s Scheels at 914 Fun Day and I’m Jealous and that is what actually refreshed my memory of this wonderful mess).
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I had by this time new German glass front and non German rear installed (another story for another day that I would just as soon forget) so I fashioned some partitions out of hard board for sparks.
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The only place I could find the half cross rail was AA but I was happy to be able to find just a half. And it actually was a pretty nicely made piece and did not require a lot of customization to fit it in. Not the welding expertise of mb911 but I got it done! Kind of a tight area too. welder.gif
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Installation of seat brackets was a royal pain but they are even and level. Picture of completed to follow.
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 25 2017, 01:59 PM

Completed job 2015 cross member
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And with stock seats installed
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But in doing the post above about 2015 I decided to remove the seats and see what all I still have left to do in there. My day was ruined when this handle broke off moving the seat forward. This all gets really frustrating sometimes and it just doesn’t pay to get out of bed. Killer is I sold my extras for cheap at a swap meet hoping somebody could use them.
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Posted by: porschetub Sep 25 2017, 02:01 PM

Interesting handbrake setup,that would work well surely,good progress going on here beerchug.gif .

Posted by: porschetub Sep 25 2017, 02:27 PM

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.
Attached Image
It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Posted by: moparrob Sep 25 2017, 04:20 PM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.
Attached Image
It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Very creative on that bracket. It would be nice if someone did a three axis scan on that and created the part in billet.

Posted by: moparrob Sep 25 2017, 04:20 PM

Double post huh.gif

Posted by: mepstein Sep 25 2017, 04:32 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 23 2017, 01:44 PM) *

First up was the AN16 with straight end and 30 deg end. Decided a bit of 800 degree shield would be good next to the header too.
Attached Image

A couple years ago when I ran the AN12 front oil cooler lines through the heater tubes to the engine bay it all made sense and I liked it. Having an elbow coming out of the thermostat right next to engine mount seemed tight but ok.
Now, with the engine in place that hose is a bit of a challenge, and like Learmo63 says, the fewer the elbows the better.

My last post said jokingly that I may not post pictures but I am now happy with what I ended up with. So pictures there will be!

I always liked an original 911 hard line concept; tight bend out of the block, close to the engine and drain tubes plus away from headers. So I shortened a 911 hard line, bent, and had a fitting tig welded to the end. This hard line is similar to the PMS line they sell for $160 and I did it for $42. I had the line cut 2 years ago just waiting for the engine install.

Have to say the first hose approach was a bunch of close proximity elbows and it was nuts.
The big spiral approach is going to be it! Just a bit of clamping and I’m done with oil system.

Seems like baby steps but progress none the same. And many thanks to my hose"guy"
Attached Image
Attached Image

I’m not there to see this in 3D but I wonder if a 45 degree fitting on each end of a short piece of line would connect without the loop.
Or keeping the 90 on the thermostat and adding a 45 on the oil pipe.

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 25 2017, 04:36 PM

I like the GT center hand brake idea, but when it is up does the shifter interfere with it. They look close, maybe too close?

It's much better to drive a 914 with seats in it. beerchug.gif

Order two steel seat adjuster handles from 914 Rubber and be done with it. Those old alloy ones break regularly.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 25 2017, 05:15 PM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 25 2017, 05:37 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 25 2017, 03:32 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 23 2017, 01:44 PM) *


A couple years ago when I ran the AN12 front oil cooler lines through the heater tubes to the engine bay it all made sense and I liked it. Having an elbow coming out of the thermostat right next to engine mount seemed tight but ok.
Now, with the engine in place that hose is a bit of a challenge, and like Learmo63 says, the fewer the elbows the better.

I always liked an original 911 hard line concept; tight bend out of the block, close to the engine and drain tubes plus away from headers. So I shortened a 911 hard line, bent, and had a fitting tig welded to the end. This hard line is similar to the PMS line they sell for $160 and I did it for $42. I had the line cut 2 years ago just waiting for the engine install.

Have to say the first hose approach was a bunch of close proximity elbows and it was nuts.
The big spiral approach is going to be it! Just a bit of clamping and I’m done with oil system.

Seems like baby steps but progress none the same. And many thanks to my hose"guy"
Attached Image
Attached Image

I’m not there to see this in 3D but I wonder if a 45 degree fitting on each end of a short piece of line would connect without the loop.
Or keeping the 90 on the thermostat and adding a 45 on the oil pipe.


Yeah it looks like it would work with 45 deg from the pic I know what you mean. The end coming out of the 90 at the thermostat and the end of the hard line were only 7 inches from each other and with 90's on them they were in the same plane. Not a lot of real estate to work with. I really don't think there was room for 45's and then more 90's just didn't make sense and even that wouldn't really work either. Thanks for looking in.

Edit to add picture to show how tight it is against the engine mount right now I have a piece of rubber in there for cushion. if anything the elbow coming out of the thermostat could bave been like 75 degrees. The mount is coming down at an angle. Hope this helps.
Attached Image

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 25 2017, 06:26 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:36 PM) *

I like the GT center hand brake idea, but when it is up does the shifter interfere with it. They look close, maybe too close?

It's much better to drive a 914 with seats in it. beerchug.gif

Order two steel seat adjuster handles fro 914 Rubber and be done with it. Those old alloy ones break regularly.


Yes center hand brake should be cool. agree.gif

Since I just installed the shifter linkage the other day I can now check it so thanks for asking. Shifter fully back and brake up to match. Picture shows got about an inch, but I doubt the brake is that high when pulled up, have to see and that's another whole project. blink.gif

I will get right on the 914 Rubber seat handles thanks for that too! beerchug.gif

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Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 25 2017, 09:37 PM

I thought the same exact thing that Mark said in his comment about the oil line loop. I doubt the loop hurts anything, but a direct connection does look possible.

Posted by: maf914 Sep 26 2017, 06:50 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Yes, thank you Porschetub for the explanation. Chris at Tangerine Racing offers a kit that adds double bushings at the shift console, and Mark Henry and Brant have posted threads and photos of their custom double bushing installations. All good information.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 26 2017, 12:07 PM

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 26 2017, 05:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Yes, thank you Porschetub for the explanation. Chris at Tangerine Racing offers a kit that adds double bushings at the shift console, and Mark Henry and Brant have posted threads and photos of their custom double bushing installations. All good information.


That's what I like about this site is you can learn something new almost every day. Never heard of Tangerine Racing. Went and looked at the kit. Wonder if you could buy just pieces? Also did not know that Mark and Brant had made them too. Thanks maf914

Posted by: porschetub Sep 26 2017, 01:21 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 27 2017, 07:07 AM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 26 2017, 05:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Yes, thank you Porschetub for the explanation. Chris at Tangerine Racing offers a kit that adds double bushings at the shift console, and Mark Henry and Brant have posted threads and photos of their custom double bushing installations. All good information.


That's what I like about this site is you can learn something new almost every day. Never heard of Tangerine Racing. Went and looked at the kit. Wonder if you could buy just pieces? Also did not know that Mark and Brant had made them too. Thanks maf914


I did ask Chris if he would sell me the dual bush console casting ,he replied promply and politely saying the part wasn't sold on its own.
I have his firewall bush and already had a converted shift shaft reason for not needing the whole kit.

Posted by: ACP911 Sep 26 2017, 01:46 PM

Hello 914/6 Gurus and LUCKY...

Well this thread is very impressive and for most of you but couple of individuals, you are experiencing this through this thread, for the very very lucky few, the original owner from time to time and also ME, we have the opportunity to see his amazing work in person and let me tell you, WOW is an understatement. Very meticulous, methodical, well planned and must admit, excessively planned at times, but that is what makes him who he is......

Well done my friend... All I can say is, I am thankful to have met you and get to experience your work first hand. Can't wait for the ride in this beauty....

GG w/85 M491 bye1.gif
beerchug.gif

Posted by: porschetub Sep 26 2017, 07:40 PM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 26 2017, 12:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Oh come on Jim what you have done and achieved with this conversion you would ''knock it over" easy,it seems to really tighten things up and and provide a better reference to the shift gate if all is adjusted properly....key point.
Go for it aktion035.gif .

Posted by: maf914 Sep 27 2017, 07:47 AM

Here is a link to the thread where Porschetub, Mark and Brant provided photos of their double bushing linkage installations:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=303921&hl=linkage

And here is a photo of the linkage kit that J-West offered in the past:




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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 27 2017, 08:14 AM

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 27 2017, 06:47 AM) *

Here is a link to the thread where Porschetub, Mark and Brant provided photos of their double bushing linkage installations:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=303921&hl=linkage

And here is a photo of the linkage kit that J-West offered in the past:


Very helpful and thanks for posting in my thread much appreciated! beerchug.gif
I will look further into double bushing sure looks much more robust and thanks to Porschetub for raising the issue. beerchug.gif
Lots of good help here.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 27 2017, 08:27 AM

Have been close to installing my rear axle shafts to the tranny and was awaiting the gaskets when this timely thread appeared and proved quite helpful to me and I am sure the thread originator! Perry Keihl specifically addressed some of my questions. beerchug.gif Thanks!
Who knew? "Schnoor washers" learning all the time idea.gif type.gif

Thought it would be good to link in here.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=316867

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 27 2017, 11:31 PM

QUOTE(ACP911 @ Sep 26 2017, 12:46 PM) *

Hello 914/6 Gurus and LUCKY...

Well this thread is very impressive and for most of you but couple of individuals, you are experiencing this through this thread, for the very very lucky few, the original owner from time to time and also ME, we have the opportunity to see his amazing work in person and let me tell you, WOW is an understatement. Very meticulous, methodical, well planned and must admit, excessively planned at times, but that is what makes him who he is......

Well done my friend... All I can say is, I am thankful to have met you and get to experience your work first hand. Can't wait for the ride in this beauty....

GG w/85 M491 bye1.gif
beerchug.gif


Thanks ACP911 for looking in and you will get the first ride and then YOU will want a 914-6 guaranteed. slap.gif
Also since you signed up on World you will learn what a great site this is because of the people and support first.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 28 2017, 04:10 PM

One last point on the work I had done back in Oct 2015 in the interior post #248 above.

Did you notice the long next to the driver seat?
Since I will have a center pull E-brake I went ahead and took that scallop out of the long next to the driver seat where the E-brake lever originally was. Now nice and straight and clean just like the passenger side.

But upon finally looking at the interior again I found that I have lots yet to do in there. I also found vinyl that I had installed on that cross rail hadn’t stuck well and was curling up and peeling off so will have to re-do that too, as well as finish installing all the rest of the vinyl, and carpet, and trim, and, and, and……………………………
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Back to the engine, got some parts!
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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 29 2017, 09:37 AM

Hooked up my engine wiring the other night, took like 2 minutes. smile.gif

That’s because when I did the Perry Keihl wiring harness with his super cool 14 pin connector for the chassis wiring I got the idea idea.gif to make things easier when I did install the engine so I spent the time to add my own quick connectors.

Yes, those are indeed trailer type pin connectors for my MSD ignition wires. Took a bit of extra planning but should engine removal be required in the future it’s a snap to disconnect. Could not find a 6 pin so used a 4 pin and 2 pin. white914.jpg
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Posted by: whitetwinturbo Sep 29 2017, 11:08 AM

...........way cool connector biggrin.gif

Posted by: jd74914 Sep 29 2017, 11:14 AM

Quick disconnects are always nice. smile.gif

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I've never had any positive experiences with flat trailer connectors and it seems like a shame to use them on a build of this quality. They don't really positively lock and are pretty easy to damage. The might work OK for you, but if they don't consider switching to something like a 6 pin Delphi Weatherpack connector. They're inexpensive (~$5-10 for both sides, the terminals, and seals), don't require a super special crimper (very important if you're doing just one), and have a nice positive locking catch so the can't come loose with vibration.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-6-Pin-Weatherpack-Connector-Kit-16-14-AWG-Made-In-USA-/230864494085


Posted by: mepstein Sep 29 2017, 11:20 AM

Lucky - I like the idea, a lot.
Tony/cracker’s setup throughout his car. Awesome


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Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 29 2017, 12:43 PM

QUOTE(jd74914 @ Sep 29 2017, 10:14 AM) *

Quick disconnects are always nice. smile.gif

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I've never had any positive experiences with flat trailer connectors and it seems like a shame to use them on a build of this quality. They don't really positively lock and are pretty easy to damage. The might work OK for you, but if they don't consider switching to something like a 6 pin Delphi Weatherpack connector. They're inexpensive (~$5-10 for both sides, the terminals, and seals), don't require a super special crimper (very important if you're doing just one), and have a nice positive locking catch so the can't come loose with vibration.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-6-Pin-Weatherpack-Connector-Kit-16-14-AWG-Made-In-USA-/230864494085


jd74914 Thanks for the link and suggestion agree.gif My parade is fine just a sprinkle here. biggrin.gif
Thanks also for the comment on my build! Much appreciated. beerchug.gif

2 years ago when I set that all up I have to admit I did not look real hard for a 6 pin mostly because I was looking at trailer connectors and went for it. Spent hours in the engine bay soldering it all in, when it was easy, with no engine installed. And a lot of time on the harness soldering that end on when it was right in front of me.
,
It is always good to find out there are perfect products out there even though a little late for me headbang.gif
Maybe someone else coming along can use the information you provided and who knows down the road if my engine comes back out a Delphi would go in. My connector will live tucked up under the lip aft of the engine lid opening where they should be out of sight unless you lean over to look.

white914.jpg

Posted by: moparrob Sep 29 2017, 05:10 PM

Jim, just think of all the amazing information you have learned during the process of this build – which you can hopefully apply when I send you my next car for you to build for me. biggrin.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 29 2017, 05:18 PM

You could use a little safety wire on the trailer plug....?

Suspenders AND a belt?


Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 29 2017, 06:54 PM

QUOTE(moparrob @ Sep 29 2017, 04:10 PM) *

Jim, just think of all the amazing information you have learned during the process of this build – which you can hopefully apply when I send you my next car for you to build for me. biggrin.gif beerchug.gif


Cool I was hoping for a turbo next! idea.gif cool.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 29 2017, 06:58 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 29 2017, 04:18 PM) *

You could use a little safety wire on the trailer plug....?

Suspenders AND a belt?


Done! and thanks for the call the other nite good info chatsmiley.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 30 2017, 02:21 PM

Who knew? shades.gif

Have been stopped now on right hand carb install now for a few days. Need to fashion a new fuel line in the engine compartment and have been looking at options and rounding up materials. PO ran an AN Alum hard line from the gas tank all the way back to the engine with good bends and connections, it looked great! He couldn’t have known it would interfere with the rain hat which sucks because it looked like such a clean direct install! first.gif

Then when I was doing MY work in the engine compartment I never even gave it a second thought, and on top of that I even ty-wrapped wires to the line, as it certainly looked as though it was out of the way. confused24.gif

Have to admit I do like the look of hard lines but Larmo63 makes a good point about the flexibility of his blue fuel lines. idea.gif

Will post the follow on solution hopefully soon. white914.jpg

All looked good till the engine went in.
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Posted by: Larmo63 Sep 30 2017, 02:38 PM

It seems as if you could bend it to go under the rain hat pretty easily???

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 30 2017, 03:40 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 30 2017, 01:38 PM) *

It seems as if you could bend it to go under the rain hat pretty easily???



It sure does.......but Um No.

Unbending 90's? Tried. But thanks.

Posted by: Keith914 Sep 30 2017, 03:42 PM

Just catching up on your progress. You may have put the shift rod brass bushing that is in the front of the tranny bracket backwards. This can prevent the rods moving to the rear for 2nd and fourth so that you can't quite complete these shifts.

Posted by: Keith914 Sep 30 2017, 03:45 PM

Just looked at your post 247 again - your shift rod is different from mine (Tangerine), so you may not have a problem as I did.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 30 2017, 03:55 PM

QUOTE(Keith914 @ Sep 30 2017, 02:42 PM) *

Just catching up on your progress. You may have put the shift rod brass bushing that is in the front of the tranny bracket backwards. This can prevent the rods moving to the rear for 2nd and fourth so that you can't quite complete these shifts.


Made me look
Post #237 shows placement of my brass bushing. The arm on the trans would not move in the direction of the bushing if installed reversed from what is shown. Seems to go OK through all the gears as installed just re-checked!
Thanks for weighing in.


Posted by: Lucky9146 Sep 30 2017, 03:58 PM

QUOTE(Keith914 @ Sep 30 2017, 02:45 PM) *

Just looked at your post 247 again - your shift rod is different from mine (Tangerine), so you may not have a problem as I did.


Post #247 is Porschetub 's set up showing what he did with double bushings. Wish I had that! Mine is post #237

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 1 2017, 12:26 PM

Received my rear axle gaskets and found some Schnorr washers (which was a new word for me and makes me chuckle). Good news is the rear axles are together after a lot of cleaning, it was a greasy mess to do, as I am sure many here know. I was not planning to show any pictures because everyone has seen rear axles.

However I did address what the axles looked like. They were powder coated black many years ago and had been hung on coat hangers over time which ended up removing the powder coating in several areas. Was not looking forward to trying to remove the remaining powder coating thinking it would be a real challenge. To my surprise, moisture had apparently worked under all the powder coating and they were rusty underneath, making coating removal fairly simple. Maybe they were not prepped well first? Cleaned up the rust and coated with silver Por 15 always intending to paint them black again, but I think I like the silver!
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Posted by: raynekat Oct 1 2017, 01:18 PM

Yes, the previous powder coating on your axles must have been a very poor quality as usually it's very difficult to remove powder coating. It just doesn't slough off easily likes yours seemed to do.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 2 2017, 10:13 PM

Small steps!
Got the left MSDS header installed today. I need some parts that are on order before I can install the right header. sad.gif
Unfortunately that right header will be in the way for what I have to do.

So this gave me a an opportunity to explore the much anticipated PO’s idea for a center pull hand brake. As an aside I have a good buddy with a 6 conversion who is jealous as hell about the center pull hand brake AND the quad gage (hope he sees this).

PO had the cables made and all the new attaching hardware! Nice. beerchug.gif

The concern of course was the hand brake cable routing past the header with the cable now coming out of the center of the rear bulk head
The cable is just to the right of the shifter rod and ends up upper left below the red spring.
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Cable routing went pretty well with the exception of being a tad close to the header in only one location. Routes up over shifter rod and header and over to brake.
I’ll figure something out to shield it
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It actually looks closer than it is in the 3rd picture.
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Length seems good too. Got ‘er all hooked up and it should work as imagined! Can’t do the full handle pull test without both cables installed. Dang

Livin’ The Dream! Thanks moparrob It Worked. bye1.gif
white914.jpg

Posted by: Larmo63 Oct 3 2017, 10:29 PM

I have two 911 E-brake cables for a center pull brake set up, but I don't think I will explore the idea.

Not that it's a bad idea, but the 914 set up works fine.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 4 2017, 07:30 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Oct 3 2017, 09:29 PM) *

I have two 911 E-brake cables for a center pull brake set up, but I don't think I will explore the idea.

Not that it's a bad idea, but the 914 set up works fine.


I believe the concept was for making an e-brake turn in rally driving. Then you are able to use your right hand for e- brake and shift with left hand on the steering wheel.

According to my rally driving friend. Very awkward to make an e-brake turn with left hand e-brake. This is why he is jealous. biggrin.gif

Never done this myself and really have no plans for it, but the option is now there and it seems much more instinctive to utilize a center pull hand brake. driving.gif
white914.jpg

Posted by: moparrob Oct 4 2017, 08:06 PM

Actually, the reason for this mounting was because this wide seats I had chosen, from a 964 Porsche, would not allow access to the handbrake on the left side. Also, uphill starts using the handbrake are much more intuitive with a center handbrake.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 5 2017, 06:08 AM

The reference was based off the original Rallye Prepped 914-6GTs that had center tunnel mount for just this reason. Easier to find the dang thing when it is out in the open. Also the original early hand brake folded, so it would be even more of a pain to use.

Now modern Rallye cars us cutter brakes that actuate the brakes on that side our rear. In reality it could now be done via electronics, via the stability control system. In this case you would have to change the acronym and make it IICS (Intentional Instability Control System) As your making the car unstable to induce the intend rotation.

Carry on neat layout. I would add some heat sleeves on the cables and SS safety wire to keep them from burning. Might confused24.gif increase the life span confused24.gif You never know until you get it running and start using the cables.

Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=76791. Great Read and full of very useful information.

Posted by: mepstein Oct 5 2017, 06:11 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 5 2017, 08:08 AM) *

The reference was based off the original Rallye Prepped 914-6GTs that had center tunnel mount for just this reason. Easier to find the dang thing when it is out in the open. Also the original early hand brake folded, so it would be even more of a pain to use.

Now modern Rallye cars us cutter brakes that actuate the brakes on that side our rear. In reality it could now be done via electronics, via the stability control system. In this case you would have to change the acronym and make it IICS (Intentional Instability Control System) As your making the car unstable to induce the intend rotation.

Carry on neat layout. I would add some heat sleeves on the cables and SS safety wire to keep them from burning. Might confused24.gif increase the life span confused24.gif You never know until you get it running and start using the cables.

Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=76791. Great Read and full of very useful information.

agree.gif I am copying his setup.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 5 2017, 10:47 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 5 2017, 08:11 AM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 5 2017, 08:08 AM) *


Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=76791. Great Read and full of very useful information.

agree.gif I am copying his setup.


shades.gif Already liberated Jeff's idea on the EG build even used the same seals the firewall. In my normal way of making things to complicated I started mocking up the tubes to go through the firewall like the factory would have done it. Saw Jeff's setup and headbang.gif keep it simple. headbang.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 5 2017, 07:05 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 5 2017, 05:08 AM) *

The reference was based off the original Rallye Prepped 914-6GTs that had center tunnel mount for just this reason. Easier to find the dang thing when it is out in the open. Also the original early hand brake folded, so it would be even more of a pain to use.

Now modern Rallye cars us cutter brakes that actuate the brakes on that side our rear. In reality it could now be done via electronics, via the stability control system. In this case you would have to change the acronym and make it IICS (Intentional Instability Control System) As your making the car unstable to induce the intend rotation.

Carry on neat layout. I would add some heat sleeves on the cables and SS safety wire to keep them from burning. Might confused24.gif increase the life span confused24.gif You never know until you get it running and start using the cables.

Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=76791. Great Read and full of very useful information.



Thanks for all the info including the Jeff Hail link! Like you said great read. type.gif
Yes I will be adding the heat sleeves soon.
white914.jpg

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 10 2017, 07:58 PM

Nits and Nats
Just returned from a trip but before leaving I spent some time getting a bunch of small parts ordered from several suppliers. Little crap that was holding me up on several fronts.
As my thread title says “Finishing A 914-6 GT Conversion Project” I am now (hopefully) down to just the small stuff for finishing it up as you can see.

Waiting for me to open were 4 packages! So it was like a 914 Christmas. santa_smiley.gif

PMS clutch pulley buy was encouraged by Larma63, so why not. I had looked at it a couple years back trying to justify it and had input saying the stock one would work but I am right there now, so new pulley it is!

Timing decal, which I always wanted but could not figure out where to get it from, was a lead from Defianty all the way over in the UK. He first suggested a Polish company and that wasn’t working out so well for me and then he suggested of all places Sierra Madre right up the road. How cool is that! Have to add I have not gone to Sierra Madre in the past but will scrutinize their site in the future.

Then there is often offered GB from 914 Rubber which of course leads to additional “stuff”. biggrin.gif

My usual “go to” site is EBS Racing where I have spent the majority of my dollars and a great company to deal with.

It’s the help and suggestions from others that make this site so great. beerchug.gif
On we go white914.jpg
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Posted by: defianty Oct 11 2017, 01:51 AM

Always nice getting 914 bits in the mail!

Glad you found the fan sticker. It's a nice finishing piece. It almost felt like a stamp of approval when I fitted mine laugh.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Oct 11 2017, 05:16 AM

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Oct 3 2017, 12:13 AM) *

Small steps!
Got the left MSDS header installed today. I need some parts that are on order before I can install the right header. sad.gif
Unfortunately that right header will be in the way for what I have to do.

So this gave me a an opportunity to explore the much anticipated PO’s idea for a center pull hand brake. As an aside I have a good buddy with a 6 conversion who is jealous as hell about the center pull hand brake AND the quad gage (hope he sees this).

PO had the cables made and all the new attaching hardware! Nice. beerchug.gif

The concern of course was the hand brake cable routing past the header with the cable now coming out of the center of the rear bulk head
The cable is just to the right of the shifter rod and ends up upper left below the red spring.
Attached Image

Cable routing went pretty well with the exception of being a tad close to the header in only one location. Routes up over shifter rod and header and over to brake.
I’ll figure something out to shield it
Attached Image

It actually looks closer than it is in the 3rd picture.
Attached Image

Length seems good too. Got ‘er all hooked up and it should work as imagined! Can’t do the full handle pull test without both cables installed. Dang

Livin’ The Dream! Thanks moparrob It Worked. bye1.gif
white914.jpg


That ebrake cable is nowhere near as close to the header once the car is on the ground and there's a load on the suspension.

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 11 2017, 10:55 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Oct 11 2017, 04:16 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Oct 3 2017, 12:13 AM) *

Small steps!
Got the left MSDS header installed today. I need some parts that are on order before I can install the right header. sad.gif
Unfortunately that right header will be in the way for what I have to do.

So this gave me a an opportunity to explore the much anticipated PO’s idea for a center pull hand brake. As an aside I have a good buddy with a 6 conversion who is jealous as hell about the center pull hand brake AND the quad gage (hope he sees this).

PO had the cables made and all the new attaching hardware! Nice. beerchug.gif

The concern of course was the hand brake cable routing past the header with the cable now coming out of the center of the rear bulk head
The cable is just to the right of the shifter rod and ends up upper left below the red spring.
Attached Image

Cable routing went pretty well with the exception of being a tad close to the header in only one location. Routes up over shifter rod and header and over to brake.
I’ll figure something out to shield it
Attached Image

It actually looks closer than it is in the 3rd picture.
Attached Image

Length seems good too. Got ‘er all hooked up and it should work as imagined! Can’t do the full handle pull test without both cables installed. Dang

Livin’ The Dream! Thanks moparrob It Worked. bye1.gif
white914.jpg


That ebrake cable is nowhere near as close to the header once the car is on the ground and there's a load on the suspension.


Thanks Mark! Good catch and now I have some inappropriately placed ty-wraps that will be removed today. I have to admit I totally did not catch that! Duh headbang.gif Not sure what I was thinking.
Seriously, thank you for weighing in. beerchug.gif

Posted by: Lucky9146 Oct 13 2017, 08:44 PM

Frustration the last couple days. sad.gif
We all experience frustration at one time or another going through this process of 6 conversion. With my last purchases of bits and pieces I can’t believe I already have another list going. Does it ever stop? headbang.gif

Some of the small parts I recently got worked ok. PMS clutch pulley is on, so the clutch is complete, and somewhat adjusted. Trans ground strap was good too and now with new fill drain plugs installed the trans is full of Swepco 201. smile.gif

One thing bugging me is the accelerator cable. Can’t figure out where the hell I got the darn thing and I am not sure it is the right one, it just doesn't look right to me. idea.gif Going to continue to install but may need another one of those.

Timing decal I bought from Sierra Madre turned out to be the wrong one. It was SC all right, but ROW SC, so now have found where I can get the correct one, or closer to it, and have to order that one now. Sierra Madre did not have the correct one. shades.gif

My hats off to those of you who have successfully installed the washer and nut on the right side carb under the accelerator pump. pray.gif pray.gif I know it can be done but really? I'll get it.

Definitely needed some positive progress today after fighting the right header on last night. I was pretty stoked about the idea of installing my ceramic coated new Dansk muffler so I want to share that. The install went ok, I wouldn’t go so far as problem free, but it is on there! smile.gif I know silver ceramic is not "correct" but I love the look and kind of goes wit the headers. Will be eventually hidden by MSDS flare rear valance anyway.
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