The start:
2016 Build-Off
Here I go!
I purchased the car on eBay in 1999 site unseen, and only two polorid's in the post. Looked great, sitting in a empty dusty old garage. I ask lots of questions, original paint? Factory new looking wheels? History, on and on.
He couldn't tell me anything about the car, his buddy owned it and he new nothing.
Singed over ownership 6 mts ago. He did say looks like a great car, and knows it was fast. Says 2.0 on it. 400 miles away, a buddy with a flat bed, it was worth the risk. Price was right.
On arrival, I'm on it, all over the car. Long story short the thrill is gone!
Repaint in somebody's garage, 50 footer, or a polorid. Rear end hit, hard, car pushed into something damaged the left front. Right front damage, not to bad.
Engine runs on 2 cylinders, yet it is a 2.0, with carbs. Must have been the reason for the FIRE in the engine bay. One head is trashed from the fire, and theirs nothing else to talk about, except the A/C system they must have got on eBay and hacked into the car.
(Key words: eBay, "was" fast, Polorid, and risk)
I swapped in a 1.7 and a tail shift 2.0 exchangers with triad exhaust. 1971 complete interior (had one). Plus just about every other trim part. Polished the paint, cleaned up the wheels, and I drove it. Now it's time to fix It.
MICHIGAN BUILD
(Short monthly update posts) @ http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=265569#
1973 Red 1.7
5 Major Tasks to complete during the Challenge:
1. Replace back half of rear trunk floor. (Rusted, rear ended, poorly patched)
& Replace entire rear body panel, and Bumper. (Rear ended, poorly repaired)
& Patch in 1/2 left front fender. (Poorly repaired)
2. Delete headlamp doors, modify hood, and relocate headlamps.
3. Install 4 steel flares, and modify all valances. 5 lug, and wheel tire package.
4. Build up, and replace engine.
Installed now:
With:
1.7 914 Engine balanced
260 x 396 Cam .006
96mm Big Bore kit
Mallory Unlite Distributor 14004
Weber 40 DCNF (w/ very short intakes)
Air jet 1.80 Main 1.25
2.0 L exhaust
Work in progress replacement.
5. Major interior renew.
Still need to finish the engine, and start it. Purchased here from a member a few years ago.
I have a 2nd 914 that I'm also working on, and been a owner of many since the 70's. I do all my own work. My enjoyment time.
Attached image(s)
I replaced the hoods with ones of better quality, reason for primer. Got started on this last weekend.
Remove the rear trunk have, and tail panel.
Look at the amount of weld they used and lots of filler. No to mention the extra layer of sheet metal.
The tail was cut in hafe and re welded back, In turn the the panel holding the tail lights was flat across. No curve to meet the trunk.
Used air punch from H.F. Worked very well. Lots of welds to do.
the tail and hood are from a green 70 (in the data base)
Nice looking job. You will have a nice 914 when you get her done. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Michael.
Well I rough trimmed and fitted the tail section, and worked on removing the glue for the carpeting. What a pain!
Started cutting for the headlamps, and as I was putting this on the scrap pile I thought.....
This should be the teener torch.
Relocating the headlights wondering what you have in mind.
I think that snow picture should be considered for the calendar.
The headlamps are going to a challenge in it self. I have a few ideas, fixed in the bumper opening, and reshape the bumper lower edge for room, and along the top edge of the valance. Also was looking into retractable, also in the bumper. More to come on this.
One other idea I have that's not listed in my build list. That is to rake the roof, a bit. What do you think? And have seen drastic rake of the roof, but I thinking just a bit like this. Just chop the roll bar 2 inches, adjust the body work to meet the targa top, and Windows. Not a cut and paste job. No metal roof.
Scraped all carpet, glue and some seam sealer. .
Attached image(s)
My 73 build off challenge car. "Michigan Build"
Sep 2015 now the Build off car.
And At the Midwest classic in 2004
My inspirations for this build.
The one I sold, 27 years ago.
My 914 back in "80's sold in "88 Started as a club racer, then back to driver. Owned this one for ten or more years.
The garage were I did all the work.
Converted back to road car
Club racing it in Oakland Michigan 1970-80
The black car we have all seen.
Nice Work John
I always thought your Red 1.7 looked great to me.
Admire your skills and work ethic
Mike
John,
Who made your rear trunk floor patch panel?
Right here:
http://www.restoration-design.com/
Great products! They have molds. Family owned company.
Attached image(s)
Humm. I have the same one, but mine does not have that lip over the cross brace. It just runs out straight. Did you fold it over to make the flange for the spot welds? Did you drill and weld in a nut in the cross brace, or just go with out it?
I bent the lip, and made the flange. I did not add the nut. Just be sure to line it up tight, before you decide where to bend. And that the small center cap fits the width.
You might consider striping all the paint off the inside of the rear panel, and priming most of it prior to welding that piece in...
it will be easier to treat the small areas of rust with the panel out as well -
Looking good!!
Finished up the rear early steel bumper. Needed to close up the holes from where some PO drilled to mount tits on a early bumper. I also used a wheel to knock down the weld, disc to removed 80% more, then a flapper disc to finish. Buy the time I get to the fenders, I think I will feel confident that they will turn out nice.
I'm looking at bumper hole filling in my future too, was the chrome already off of yours? Or did you remove it? If you removed it, how did you do it? Thanks.
This was never chromed, was steel painted black when new.
Welded the rear fenders on, and the left front fender patch.
Getting cold in Michigan.
When lining up the fenders I start at the bottom of the fender and line up the bottom edge to the same height as the stock fender.
Cutting a wedge and angling out the valance mount channel.
Im learning as I go.
And did the right side.
The left front fender patched in.
[attachmentid=529609]
Now Ill move on to the fronts and the valances as I move forward.
Attached image(s)
Did you purposefully make a notch in your front patch for your clamp?
Your work so far looks very good!
i finished up the front fenders, and the 3 of the 4 valances. Lots of time with the hammer on the fenders to keep the welds flat.
Heres the fenders, and the change to the bottom before installing.
( for some of you, yes I still have and use my Mid-west cup)
Nice Work!
The side valance has to be more then bent to fit. Just bending would cause it to move down also. So I start with a cut, and a wedge.
Then out come the close up lens for slightly improving my vision.
Hammering the curve to reach a bit of a curve.
Need to change the angle of the lip on all , due to the wedge added change. I want these to line up correctly with the fenders.
Done with the side's. I feel that they will work out fine, with out having to do to much fabricating. I wanted to keep it simple, with a little flare!
I was sure to think 10 times, measure twice, and cut once.
I could have cut paper templets, and built it all up first, but in the end I find
you always custom fit and work each corner for a good fit.
Nice Work, looking very good.
Now for the rear. I have a snow plow/scoop and have all ready modified it to a duel port. So same as with the side valances, need to use a wedge shape.
The rear valance.
Had to check fit to the car, many times.
Clean up the first weld.
And the second weld.
Working the edge to fit the curve of the fender.
Attached image(s)
And the last adjustment and fit.
3 done:
Just arrived 2 weeks ago, and center caps at Christmas.
Now onto the 5 lug conversion.
And seeing if my calculations were correct, on these I just got mounted up. I know I should have gotten the rims and tires first, but went on with carful measuring and fitting when installing the fenders. I think I got it correct based on this.
5" 13/16s inside clearance on the factory Fuchs
6" On the Euromiester
about 1/4" more on the inside. The 9" wheel, (Stock 5.5) that leaves 3 1/4 outside. Flares should add 2", Stock clearance is around 1" and I can work the lip for the last 1/4. Thats the plan…..at least for the rear.
The front may require a spacer or a slight rework, to fit the also 9" rims up there.
going with 9's, for the 1st time, on all 4.
Happy New Year!
Attached image(s)
All 3 done, now to change to 5 lug. And Turbo tie rod ends. I'll do the front valance when I attract the headlamps.
Great metal work there! That looks very well done!
Nice work, looks like quick progress!
Looks good, can't wait to see the finished product.
Hey, Nice exhaust. give me the serial number off the left flange (TW OOO) and I can give you some history on that... dave @ triad
I like how you didn't complain about the original disappointment with the car. Didn't bullshit around and just dealt with the restoration and build. Good onya.
I agree, nice metal work . You make it look WAY too easy.
Nice work and great pics! Following along in case I ever work up the courage to flare my car.
Back at it over the last few weeks, installed 5 Lug package from PMB Performance. Pressed in new bearings, and seals. Turbo tie rod ends, rack spacers, and shorter firmer springs and shocks.
Also went with a pair of old front calipers I had from the 70's these are Girling calipers, that were tested for use on some VW's. Had to trim the calipers a bit to fit the rotors. But they mount right up to the strut housing, no adjustment required.
I will be using spacers 2mm rear, and 15-20mm front. Trimmed the lip of the rears looks like all will clear fine.
very nice work sir, very nice.
Wow John,
I am very impressed with what you have accomplished on your build!!
Congratulations, keep up the good work!
Vysoc
It looks like the same "hack" did my rear trunk and damage repair as yours. Some people shouldn't work on cars or own tools. Thanks for sharing your repair. It has motivated me to dig into mine and get it fixed. Your detailed pictures really helped clear up some of my concerns.
Put together the rear struts. Old pair of Koni red adj, and new welt 140 lb springs.
Got a little bit done last night, put the drop links in with new bushings. Heated up the bushings in water, and pressed them in A bit sideways, till they popped in. Then big pliers to squeeze on to the studs.
Heated up the wheel studs a bit to be able to remove them, losses the lock tight. Then moved the long ones up front, and the shorts to the rear. Shorts are still a bit to short , need to order additional 10 more.
Was able to mount all 4 wheels, and completely lower the lift. Everything clears fine. Till I'm road worthy I'll have to wait on exact spacer size, but I'm very close.
Still to go:
Finishing touches on the flares, and valance bodywork
Headlight doors delete
Headlights added to new location
Interior swap out.
Replace both doors
Engine build up, and replace
I have added a few extra tasks to my original build list of 5.
This happens all the time, one reason my projects always take so long. But This time I'll have to draw a line, thanks to a dead line.
Of course I'm sure I'll find more to do, other then drive it, after 9-14-16.
Nice work. Fat rubber.
Well, still on it. Worked on the hood to eliminate the headlamp doors. I, know, it took me a while to convince myself to do it. The pop up headlamps are a great feature, but.
Took the filler pieces from a spare hood, and tried to cut for a perfect fit. lots of measuring, yet still off a bit.
I found that to achieve the correct angles, and keep the front lip correct, I needed to add a little.
Weld on!
The underside still needs some work, but heres a look at the top. The front lip lines up nice across the hood. I'm happy.
Now, as far as the headlamp relocation, been doing a bit of work on that idea. Also need to install correct size studs for the front wheels, touch up a bit of errors in my welds, and general catch up all around. Thanks for taking a look.
Man you are making great progress, and it looks great!
Nice hood work there
Thanks everybody,
I have slowed down a bit with cold weather, but not stopped. But as winters go it's a light one for Michigan. I have been thinking on the headlamp's, but going for the interior swap next.
Right now it has a early "smooth leather" interior from my 1st car, a 71, that I rode in 40 years ago, and have been riding on, and off, over the years. It's in excellent condition. But!
I'm installing a 70 black leatherette set that's from the car I just sold last year as a roller, owned it for 38 years. This set also includies the seats, and back pad, and was made from a thicker materials than any other car I've owned. It was a early 70. It's in perfect condition, that car only saw about 70,000 miles.
Setting up for a busy weekend or two.
Change in plans. Im back working on the headlamps. I love the stock lamps, great idea. So I still wanted pop up's, well at least motorized. OK flip downs in the bumper face. And some kind of cover when the lamps are off.
S
Started with location for motor in relation to motor, and keeping it all very low, and concealed in the trunk.
Test box build to the specs of the opening. Relocating the motor location and clearance.
Cut out the original mount for the motor, and reworked it to fit the project.
Right and left sides roughly done.
Okay, this looks really interesting....
Thank you, and on with the show
Positioning the location and locating mounting points, swing room ect. When fitting them in.
Found that not only that the motor position could be improved, I also tried many heights as far as fitting in the factory opening thats for a fog lamp. First went so that the complete lamp would show. Then realized that the appearance would be poor. So same size lamp, and 80% opening to shine through. Wont see the top bit of the lens.
Work in progress.
Made up first linkage incorrectly since the relocation, so need to do one a bit longer.
Item view.
Interesting! I take it you dont have headlight height laws in michigan?
I have thought about that, and have a solution in mind! Not to limit the though, but between after dusk driving, and having it addressed by law inforcement, the solution only needs to be somewhat minimal. More to come......
Yes and theres a picture of it installed also.
...........I must have missed the installed pic...can you re post it?
Here is a idea that I tried, and it worked. The tool is used for heating material for repairing cuts or marks in seats. I only used a piece of cloth under the coin sized heated part of the tool. Moving it around in small circles over the damage for about 40 sec. After a few minuets the dent lifted up almost flush!
Headlamps on hold, still working out the bugs.
On the interior, I changed out a early "sinning leather" for an early "leather". I like the more flat sheen of the now installed interior.
As I said the headlamps are going slowly, but I am making progress. The interior I had stored for years, was warped on the corners of the back pad, and the door panels also needed some work.
Here is the "shinny leather", and all its flaws, and a close up of the less gloss, and thicker mill, "leather"
Steam seemed the best idea, so out with the tea pot and after steaming a few times, and blocking out. worked out well.
Also changed out the top padding and fiber board strip only, the rest of the panel held up well.
Finishing up
Using a early interior, living in the 70's, well early 70's!
Original riveted handle, still attached.
Early interior, requires a early drivers seat. lots of room to reach an early hand brake.
No changes to dash.
Before
After
Headlamps have become a daunting task. Each time I think I have it right, I over think it and start again. The housing is not square, the tuBe for the monts is on a angle. When rotating the housing the geometry changes. I'm getting close, and looking at additional lamps in the turn signal buckets.
I found disscustion about turbo tie rods, well what I got from eBay a few years back looks now to be fake. So....I got a set for a great price here on the form and installed them correctly. Much better with the steering stops, and now I have the bellows to.
A lot of catch up and correction this month. Found the front spacers were to large, poor clearance to the fender. Originally I had 10mm in the rear, and 20 in the front. 10 all around should work, waiting on the new front spacers to arrive.
Spent free time on the flares, and valances. Little body filler, and texture finish on the valances, filler and primer on the flares. Still working on the front end and lighting.
Lookin good! That texture is nice!
thats what I love about build threads, getting ideas and products I would have never tried.
Keep up the great work.
When spraying the Transtar, you can achieve different textures, with distance, and speed. I sprayed 3' away, fast sweeps multiple coats, with full pressure on the nozzle. Multiple coats, from different distances, over the trim black, is very close to factory.
They look good to me, but I have had them turn out closer to factory look in the past. Pratice before spraying pays off.
Thank you to all that are following, and or commenting.
I agree that to be leagal the motorized original lamps I the fog lamp location won't do. So, I am adding HELLA Micro DE Series 12V/35W Xenon Driving Lamps to the turn buckets.
I have seen this size lamp added by others here, thanks for the inspiration.
First I turned the bucket upside down, this will allow me and I use the factory sockets for the turn and running lamps. I had already modified the housings with the 2nd socket.
Plotting out the locations, and making many cuts, and lots of time with the file, to minimize the size of the hole.
Used wax to figure out the size and shape of the scoop from the lens to the lamp.
Added a bracket to the driving lamp, so it mounts to the fender independent of the buckets. I'll use a flexible seal between the two from moisture and vibration. This way I will still be able to adjust the lamp direction using the adjustment screws.
Cutting the lens. Tried hole saw and metal, and wood drills. Heat was a idea but discoloration was a problum. I think I could have got the lens to the correct temp, but hard to control even temp across the lens. So I am going with a wood drill, and saw blade.
OK, well here's a few sample cuts, drills, and temp changes on a scrape lens.
I can't bear to look.......That wood bit could snag and break the lens real easy.
You might want to try a hole saw instead.
Good luck.
Slow, and easy......don't want the bit to heat up. Just shaving my way along.
yea, get a real hole saw.
Start to finish 10 minutes per cut. Shaving off just a layer at a time. Works even when overlapping a prior cuts. If you cut to fast, you will see the plastic turn white. You want to cut, not melt.
Then saw, and file. Light sand, and polish.
Mounting and wiring next.
Too scary for me... ;-)
Well done!
Now, how you going to seal water out?
Thinking brutal, but can make a mess. So working on rubber seals.
From scrap 914 weather striping, and seals.
Looking good interested in how the rockers look completed now that they are textured and fit against the flares.. I might go this way versus using the fiberglass rockers I have currently.
REALLY nice lighting
Awesome headlight solution!
But... Why did you mount the headlight cover upside down?
I ran in to a bit of a problem when starting my build engine, so I went to the "Garage"
LINK:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=291433&view=findpost&p=2381407
I'm Back from the "Garage" engine is running great. 25 minutes at around 2000 rpm. No oil leaks. Now to swap out the drivetrain. She sounded strong, with that cam.
First here is a few pictures of my home powder coating I did a few years ago. used a small oven, and home gun set up.
Been busy. After the oil pressure concern was solved http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=291433&view=findpost&p=2381407
Also a few of engine exterior build up.
I moved the engine on to the trailer, yard trailer.
Out with the old stock 1.7 still running well, after 40+ years, and 5 different cars.
slowly down and away.
Still on its way out.
A few items I had waiting for this it next service.
Here we go….new power, I have used that 1.7 and am used to its power, this should be good.
installed a jumper to fool the fuel pump relay.
Fuel pump and filter. Regulator also set at 2.5psi. First pump I installed failed, so had to route this twice.
Also jumper to the 12 volt plug.
Starter wired up.
Finish up the cables and a few other things Ill be set to go.
First start in car looks good, the oil pressure is 42. And no leaks. 3rd road test WOW oil everywhere.
Restart and oil pours out like a faucet.
Cause, thick washers for the oil cooler to mount were installed between the cooler and the block. By me. Ug. They should be out side the cooler with the lock washer, and nut. In turn the seal won't seal! major oil leak, at 42 psi.
Big day for sure, great job. I lost a Black and Decker Workmate once doing close to the same extraction method. So just be careful, I like the idea though.
Well that took a while. Now I need to decide if I drop the engine to replace those seals or do I try to remove the cooler while the engine is in the car.?
OK, To catch-up:
The 1.7 is out, and the build 2??? is in, after multi oil concerns and now I need to remove the cooler to replace the washers into the correct location.
So,
I removed the cooler while the engines in the car. I have done this before, can be time consuming, even when it is a fresh build.
Small pliers loosen and fully unscrew the studs. This will take some time. Little turns. when all 3 are loose, remove cooler with studs in cooler.
I had to do this twice since after repairing the washer location, I found the cooler leaked and needed to be replaced.
Tested and installed. NO leaks!
Cleaned up the trans case with a bit of Gibbs oil.
I have been pushing to get this done, and keep running into concerns, now I find the alternator I has installed when the engine was out. Is shot! I was hoping to install the heater tin tonight, not R&R the alternator. Heres a few shots.
Then took a night drive, since I have charging power. Heres the video I took. It looks like a picture, since I didn't select video when filming. And a few night shots.
Im working on a 9/14/16 post, that will include a video. And thinking more if I can find a way to Okteenerfest, maybe.
Well onward I go. A little grass and dirt on the tread, just brought up some new things to check and finish.
Checking the valves, just be sure. Wont need adjusting for a few hundred miles.
Was concerned I was not were I should be on the timing. But this is it, one tooth right , or left is way off. Just checking.
Timing mark
Need heat, this is a Michigan Build. So in it goes.
Sterring rack cover back in place (still using original factory seals)
Could not resist replacing this week pedal board, and very loose pedal.
As I said one thing leads to ……a Lot! When will it stop.
I was ask if I had any pictures of the car painted? It wasn't in the plan from the start, and as of Aug 31st it still wasn't.
But…….
I thought I would try Plasti-dip.
A/C unit in the garage helps with keeping the car cool. Its 90 in Michigan and Im painting!
First peal
914 Rubber Deck Lid Seal Fits great, looks great, and I needed a new one.
Done with paint!
Ran into a backfire condition from one of the carbs, # 3 was popping from the carb. backed off the timing a bit, and 90% solved. Not sure were to set the timing, other then stock. Still working on it. Other then that……………….
Im a GO for Okteenerfest. that also was not in the plan till just a few days ago. So been very busy with the car getting it together, running, and making myself confident for the 11 hour drive. Ill be aligning it on a rack next week.
Other then that Im done, for the minute.
And a few art shots.
PD looks great! Congrats!! Great thing is you can remove it quickly if you decide to do real paint. Hope you put a couple layers on as the more layers the easier it is to remove.
Thanks
Did 6 layers. moved it in and out of the garage, to keep the body cool, and let the paint dry, not bake. 6 coats, 6 times in and out of the garage. i would only move it out to paint, quickly. it was 90 and humid, so 10 foot paint job, maybe 15. But I like it.
This was the day i first drove the build, and before paint. Just like the picture, and wanted to post it.
6 coats should work great!
Congrats on driving it. Its a great feeling when you realize your driving your project you have been working on forever
Nice work! That bodywork looks professional! The headlights are pretty bright. Are you happy with the way they work?
Very nice...turned out great!
beautiful even with the plasti dip body paint. Congratulation!
Congrats on the finish. Very nice Job! Looks like you'll be one of the handful of challengers that actually gets his car running. Be sure to post that video.
Enjoy!
The video is coming next but I just learned that you can wet sand plastic dip.
Took a 40 mile drive last night freeway and back roads everything went well. Still need to get the alignment before Octeenerfest, and about 100 miles more.
Hey as long as you have the metal covered enjoy it until the snow flies! Is it going back to red eventually or no? The exhaust looks great. Maybe think about about LED tail lights or a 3rd brake light down the road? Need to get those textanddrive people's attention.
September Update: Michigan Build
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=265772
Build progress :
A lot has happen in this month. I was going to just finish up a few things little things over the last 14 days, and then, I should paint the car!, since I'm going to Okteenerfest. So, I sprayed Plasti-Dip flat white. Came out OK, and I can peel it off!
The engine was running some what rough. So I learned a lot about carb adjustment, and balancing. Thanks for the help from our community. That took a while, I'v always run FI.
Changed out the targa sail trim back to chrome, from black. Installed wiper arms, lettering on the grill also chrome, from black.
Drove it and pictures last Sunday. Im done.
Unexpected challenges:
Last second, 3 day labor day weekend paint job.
Vendors:
Local Paint supplier.
Progress Pictures:
Here are some before and after pictures, and a few others.
5 Major Tasks to complete during the Challenge:
1. Replace back half of rear trunk floor. (Rusted, rear ended, poorly patched)
& Replace entire rear body panel, and Bumper. (Rear ended, poorly repaired)
& Patch in 1/2 left front fender. (Poorly repaired)
2. Delete headlamp doors, modify hood, and relocate headlamps.
3. Install 4 steel flares, and modify all valances. 5 lug, and wheel tire package.
4. Build up, and replace engine.
1.7 914 Engine balanced
260 x 396 Cam .006
96mm Big Bore kit
Mallory Unlite Distributor 14004
Weber 40 DCNF (w/ very short intakes)
Air jet 1.80 Main 1.25
2.0 L exhaust
Work in progress replacement.
5. Major interior renew.
Un-planed:
6. Paint
7. Misc:
Misc:
Turbo tie rod ends, rack spacers, and firmer springs and shocks. Also went with a pair of old front calipers I had from the 70's these are Girling calipers, that were tested for use on some VW's And a few other things. Also a stock steering wheel.
I try to use original hardware, and parts, where i can.
Previously installed Dr.Evil rear view mirror, 3rd brake lamp, and Triad exhaust. Sound system 5 way amp, w-sub and iPod plug only, no head unit.
[attachmentid=573277] [attachmentid=573276]
Without the challenge, and all of the members here, I would have never got this done, much less within a year. Since as an example my other project car is over 10 years a work in process.
I have enjoyed working, and sharing the thing I enjoy doing with my free time. I have been an owner since the 70's and still enjoy every view. See some of you at Okteenerfest, my last 914 event was
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=36618&st=0# I took this same car there then. Im long over do.
Thank you, to all.
[size=7]Don't miss the videos!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4rzX019Fs4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCWvuGpKJso
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBGnzlYEUsI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MB8sc4jkXJ8
Attached image(s)
More:
3rd Brake lamp (Not new but I was ask)
Puuled out the red dot wiper blades.
Shot of the rocker flare, to the fender.
Time to snuff the 914 tourch. Pulled and first lite early in the build. It was my 12 mt Olympics.
Oh nice! Didn't even see that 3rd brake light! That's the point I'm sure. Glad you have one . Great work and great job documenting. It's very hard to stop what you're doing and take good pictures.
Needed to just tighten up the alignment a bit so we did that today. Test drive went great.
Thank you, and thank you.
START of 2017 Build-Off Part Deux
2017 Build-Off Challenge
Build-Off Part Deux
Intro 2017
October: Michigan Build
Im going to continue the build and entered the 2017 Build-Off Challange.
Here is the goals, and direction I want to go.
A. Engine:
R & Repair engine oil leaks
Replace front trans seal
B. Significant body work:
Remove the White Plasti-Dip & Finish the final body work (now primer, multi color, and poor finish work underneath)
Prime and block sand
Paint the entire car.
C. Significant interior work:
R & Replace the fuse panel, repair connections
R & Reinstall the interior to add sound deadening
Update sound system,
Modify stock seat comfort
X. Misc:
Install integrated Running lamp/3rd brake lamp.
October Update: Michigan Build
Starting with the interior. The goal here is, improve the sound system, and add some comfort, plus a few small things along the way like the new fuse panel, sound padding, and dash layout. In addition I have never taken care of the floor pan. I removed the tar padding, and worked on the dash a bit.
Overall I want to keep it "clean" less is more. I have loved the simple dash design from the first time I saw it. That was a '70 basic, not even a fog lamp switch.
Removing Plasti-Dip from primed parts of the body work, little bit at a time.
I have removed this material before, and a heat gun works best. warm it up, and scrape it off. In some spots it will lift off like a sheet. In others it may pop up due to rust. I found that this time it took a lot of effort to remove. It get tougher with age, the tar not me. : ) Some rust spots, and seems to repair. More surface rust then I thought would be there. This will pay off on my satisfaction meter when done.
I also found that with the radio, and glove box removed, theres a lot of space there. I would like to keep the sub, but not the center console. Built a trail foam board box. More to come on this.
Heres a few shots. Thanks for the look.
2017 Build-Off Challenge
Build-Off Part Deux
Well on the floor got all the tar off, and found more decay. Imagine that! The pedals were functioning fine, but was sure there could be a concern under there. After removing the under panel to access the pedal mount nuts, and the linkages, and two interior floor mount nuts. Surprise, rust and junk. Ill rebuild the pedal cluster later, but finished the floor, and patched or repaired the damaged spots. Also rust inhibitor on the surface spots. Primer done, and the proper sealer, and Im ready for some sound deadining material next.
The seat mounts are missing from the right side, from the PO, who also so had a early interior installed.
2017 Build-Off Challenge
Build-Off Part Deux
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=296915#
The pedal assembly needed cleaning up, and while at it going to install the bushing kit I have had forever.
Pulled the cotter pins and tapped out the set pins. Cleaned up with wire brush, and a bit of hand sanding.
Now into the oven to bake out anything that may hurt the paint application.
500!
Open the door for a slow cool off. It also cold in Michigan. Merry Christmas.
Now painted with hi-temp heat paint.
After letting dry, completely, back into the over. starting at 200, and moving up to 350 over 1.5 hours.
Ready to assemble.
Instructions
Factory image
LUBRIPLATE Had this a while, has proven to work over time!
Installing the brass bushings .
Finshed.
Before
After
Thanks for the look.
2017 Build progress :
Only fiddled with little stuf. Planed out the sound system on paper. Installed some of the matting with the heat gun.
Local electronic store, and collected some bits from the World members.
Fat-mat was a gift.
2017 Build progress :
This month was finish up the interior. Finished the dash face with one long piece, and no radio opening, and only 2 switches will be mounted. I wanted a clean look. Its a 73 but deleted the side dash vents for the early car look. Installed EZ-Cool on top of the rattle trap, a light spray of 3M 77 worked well.
Time to order the carpet from 914 Rubber, been waiting a life time for new carpet. I have always used original carpet from one car or another never bought carpet before.
Installed the pedal cluster, and cut a floor mat for under the drivers seat from some of the old carpet. Used Wurth Cockpit Care on the trim pieces, and a good cleaning.
Here are some more pictures, and I am working toward being ready for Okteenerfest. Body work and paint need to get started soon.
Wanted to point out the vendor I got the EZ-Cool at best price, and a small vendor. http://www.lobucrod.com/ (not Amazon $$$)
looks fantastic.
Nice work & progress!
Cheers, Dion
Garland,
Are you coming to Okteenerfest in Helen, Georgia?
Thanks,
Vysoc
2017 Build progress :
Build-Off Part Deux
Carpet fits great, and 914 Rubber is the place to get it. A bit of work with the heat gun and the carpet will hold it form. Marked the location for the hand brake using the old carpet as a pattern. I also installed retractbule seat belts, and removed the early set. Its a 73 so they fit there. The fuse panel was in bad but usable shape. Needed to clean the ends up a bit, and replaced the panel it self.
Reinstalled the center arm rest I made years ago, and added a drink holder for 2 to the location that fits the tray when I need it.
2017 Build-Off Challenge
Build-Off Part Deux
The coat hooks, I never use them. So installed remote speakers wired with a crossover for hi end, low volume sound. Made the bracket and the speakers are from a Ford Taurus.
The front speakers are in housings I got here, and sealed the back of the unit for a fuller deep sound. After the install they sound great. More on the power (amp) next month. mounting and location next month.
Heres a look at the windscreen trim clean up! More to come.
That's a TON of great work! Did you install the Easy Cool on top of the Fat Mat? That's what I call insulation!
Very nice work and great progress!
Jeff B
2017 Build-Off Challenge
Build-Off Part Deux
Installed new dash face, and removed the side vents, seat belt warning lamp, radio, and cig lighter.
I like the clean look of the early dash. Also replace the stock wheel with one I used in the 80's for club racing. Now I have a race car?! Well in my mind I did slip back to those days when installing the wheel.
Well the sound is lacking a bit of bass, working on a sub idea, again!
I did install the amp, and a plug-in for the iPod. Along with a charging port all at the same location. The switch is from a rear window defogger. I cut a acess hole in the right side of the tunnel at the seat. Powered the amp, and power point from the 73 center guage warning harness. I removed some of the EZ-Cool so that the switch/plugs location was sourounded with a plush look.
Nice
Wow man that is looking great. Is that an Emerson fitipaldi steering wheel??
Been busy, retouched the rear bumper. Saved a old front bumper.
After the Plasti-Dip came off, I reworked the body work, from 40 footer, to 10 footer.
Wanted to try a sand and paint of the top. I sanded it smooth, then sprayed texture coat to get the look. I think it came out well.
Black picture at the end is a original roof finish.
next
One more comfort item, added seat bolsters for the lower back. Simply install, and they feel great. I did modify the bag a bit with some stock vacuum line to extend the pump.
As you can see these did not start off as bolsters bags. Google for a price.
That's a clever idea...
Keeping it going, I installed a sub woofer to help out the bass. I was going to install it up behind the dash, and delete the glove box. With no head unit also, that left a lot of room. Turned out size matters. SO , I took and reworked the right foot well foam pad, and strapped the box there. It is a powered woofer.
Finished up the body work and primer, wet sanded paint soon! A little bit of seam sealer need on a prior repair to finish it off.
Pulled the windshield for the trim replacement, and cleaned up the corners a bit. Notice the setting block, this is factory since I put it in 10 years ago, a sourced it from a original install.
914 Rubber for the trim at the bottom of the glass to dash seal.
Re-building the paint booth I did 2 years ago for the other car. Garage booth.
Wow - Looking REALLY good!
Hey John
This is your neighbor Mike
I just read your build...very impressive.
We need to discuss Plastii dipping a 914 when you have time
Looks good to me.
Mike
Finished the booth, and prep'ed and painted the doors, top, and engine lid. Went with Light Ivory in Lacquer.
Now I'll uncover, finish taping and paint the body.
very nice. that's a huge amount of work there.
Taped, cleaned, and painted. I'm not sure how much it helps, but I have the car and the paint at the same temp. Came out nice, not sure Ill have time to wet sand and polish before Okteenerfest.
Awesome!!!
Love the homemade paint booth
Nice work. Looking forward to seeing it at Okteenerfest
100 Square feet will do the entire interior, and the interior of the back wall. Then I bought a second roll and did the doors and engine compartment side of the back wall. With a lot left over.
Staring with the doors I wanted to add EZ-cool, and the plastic liner. I did 2 pieces to fit them fully to the door.
Added the thresholds with rivets. Targa lower trim, bumpers, valances, and more. Also replaced the engine side back wall with a light weight replacement, It blocks the heat very well.
Windshield trim
I went with new. Installing the glass in the correct location allows the trim to fit correctly. Installed the clips with a push. I used blocks from a factory installed glass for the fit location. Trim assembled together before pushing onto clips. Rubber mallet, very softly, and good fit.
Concern with slightly dimming headlamps, found a well hidden failed terminal on the headlamp switch. Solder in, and cloth taped up.
914 rubber for the carpet, and windshield needs. Can't say enough.
Umbrella cover beautiful, and fits perfect, from Perry Klehl
I still need to wet sand and polish out the paint, but Im starting to like the soft slight flat look.
Lamps in the turn buckets are working great, just wanted to light things up a little better. So added hi-low beams behind the bumper, had to work the sheet metal a bit so the bumper would fit. Now I have hi beams!
Well it’s been a while for an update, just got back from Canadian tire motorsports Park, and the re-creation of the 914 pace car drive on the track. What a great group of 914’ers to our north. And A beautiful country.
Before leaving I moved my crank case breather from the carburetor, to a catch tank. I had to add additional hose to reach the tank. Well once I arrived at the track I noticed my ongoing rear main seal leak seemed worse. And that I was starting to collect some oil between the tins on the top of the motor. I thought maybe this was just seepage from the vent connection.
Last night I got a good look after washing it down, and running it for a short time. Found that the additional line I used had blockage and acted basically as a plug to the crank case ventilation, forcing pressure to the seals.
I’ll replace the rear main, and the oil cooler seals that I think was the front oil leak failure under extreme pressure. But going to run the engine with the shroud off and out of the car after cleanup to be sure.
In addition I had a very hard time with the shifter linkage on the way back. While pulling the engine I found the rear set pin loose, and at the trans under the linkage cover. The shaft was bound in place so it would not slide out. But shift linkage was rotating freely. Hard to believe I was ever able to reach 1st, or rev.
Need to be roadworthy for Okteenerfest, and a couple of short drives before that.
Rear main leak
Front leak
Oil cooler
Shifter pin
Updates:
Wider 3rd brake lamp
Rear valance venting
Tail panel Red accent lighting
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2023 update:
This 914 has been driven and performing great, since the build. Last week,
I decided to go back to pop-up factory headlamps. Donor parts became easily obtainable, so I went ahead and pull the trigger on the saws all.
I like the modified look, and the customized hood, and with LED’s @nd additional lamps in the turn signal housings, they were sufficient.
It was 7 years ago I did the delete, for the build off, and now getting ready for a long drive to Okteenerfest, I decided also, now is a good time to do this. The housings and the replacement hood came from the same vehicle, at a local scrap yard.
My VIN Plate, back on the car, along with factory fog lamps. Also had to create a wiring harness from bits and pieces, then splice it in. Ill be done in plenty of time for Okteenerfest.
Attached image(s)
Very nice work.
You got some real skills there Garland. Great job.
The headlamp Mechanicals are at the media blaster, so when they get back, along with the box of loose ends, I’ll be able to finish up and, fitting and mounting the doors.
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