2016 BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE Contender ... Olympic Blue Resurrection.
Purchased my 914 in 1979. It’s a 1973 base model 1.7 I’m the second owner. Original owner drove it for about 75K.
In ’80 I slid off the road and went into a hillside, taking out the driver’s side fender. While in for that repair I decided to have some minor rust issues taken care of and had the whole car repainted. Back then lacquer was the hot set-up and it looked fantastic. Later while sitting in traffic a big Lincoln didn’t quite stop and pushed in the rear panel. Another trip to the body shop.. Then another time while driving home from work in the rain I hydroplaned coming out from under a bridge and clipped a jersey barrier. Minor damage to the pass. side, but again back to the body shop. So this car has seen its share of incidents over the years.
I drove it for 10 years with only minor mechanical problems until the clutch went out 1989 and the engine had 137K on it. Then I was faced with low funds and engine that when removed will need rebuilding. So I put it in storage in a limestone mine in Bradys Bend PA. Figuring I would get it back out and get it running again one day.
Here are the earliest pictures I could find.
And the day I was taking it to the mines
It wasn't supposed to be here this long..
Fast forward to 2010 -- Coming home. First daylight in 20+ years...
I brought it home to a new 14 X20 SHED I had built just to work on the car. complete with 220V, phone and cable.
After its first bath it doesn't look too bad. But in spite of being buried over 1 mile inside a mountain AND being in a temperature and humidity controlled storage the rust worms were still at work. albeit a little slower.
Since that time I have had the extensive rust issues taken care of by Chris at Tangerine and also had the fenders flared for the 5 bolt Fuchs I will be running.
I have completed the engine rebuild myself going from 1.7 into a 2056 with heads by HAM and a Raby 9590 cam, I am keeping the D-jet FI.
I am now working on the body doing body work and paint. I AM NOT A BODY MAN. I really don’t even like body work but think I am capable.
This is the hardest part for me. I would rather build engines. Most of my experience has been with Harley engines though and there just like big lawnmowers anyway...
Along the way I am learning to weld, machine small parts and paint and acquiring many new tools.
My own self-imposed goal was to drive it to 2016 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. Not sure if it will happen but without a goal it definitely WON’T happen.
I will post more pictures of the progress I have already made on the car.
This Build off Challenge will be just a little more incentive get out in the shed and work on the car.
Wouldn't it be great to get 30 Teeners back on the road?
Good luck to all participants and I welcome any interest and questions about how or why I did something
Tom
BTW did I mention I don't like body work..
Good back story Tom. I'm a big fan of Olympic Blue (Dad's car). Good luck with realizing your dreams!
Cool story. I love Olympic Blue....it's my cars orginal color and what I want to respray it as.
Also, don't think i have any flared OB cars in my cars folder. Sounds like you have a good plan.
Yep, cool story , I love the storage unit!
How many other cars down there?
I used to work in a Limestone mine, not for limestone mining, so I am very familiar with that dust. Very good story, can't wait to see this one come back to life, love the color.
Good story for sure. Good luck! Looking forward to the build.
Who would have thought....limestone mine.
Next a couple pictures of the rust.
I knew it was bad when I started jacking up the car to remove the engine and the doughnut jackpoints just crushed and collapsed INTO the longs... every time I worked on it I had a dustpan full of rusty pieces to sweep up.
Caution pics not suitable for the squeamish.
Crushed jack points
Longs
More
You are now excused to for few minutes. I did..
If this was a west coast car it would have just been parted out..
Do you remember all the cool cars you used to have that you wish you never had sold? I had many. but I still had this one.... AND I had just got it out of the mines after 20 years of someday planning on getting it going again. What a dilemma. As the years passed I had decided it would be my retirement project. And when it was done the GF and I would drive off to many sunsets far away.
So in May '13 I retired and started on it in earnest.
Having NO welding experience, and really not believing anyone local would have the necessary skill to take this on and do a quality job I contacted Chris Foley at Tangerine.
I also sent Chris many of these same pictures and after much discussion he agreed to tackle the project.
So I borrowed a buddy's race car trailer and headed to Connecticut.
Stay tuned folks... more to come...
Great story Tom, I look forward to following your build.
Looks like your car may be one of the 73 1.7Ls without the appearance group. The rawest most basic 914 made.
Ouch
That rust is serious!!
This is the work that was completed by the guys at Tangerine Racing.
as usual things are worse once you start tearing into them than you thought.
Couple more
While Tangerine was working on the body I started to work on the engine..
Case all cleaned up
Crank built... 71mm crank
Curious on what kind of long stiffening Tangerine did? Looks like some sort of outside (like 914ltd), and also something on the inside (like the Engam kits). They don't sell anything directly like that from what I can find on their site....
Those are the 914LTD long stiffening kit.
And I will Say the 914LTD log kit is a great item. Even if you don't have log issues they stiffen the chassis up significantly. I love the set I aded to my car. I think it does more than the Engmann kit.
Got some more paint on it. finished the undersides. Everything no one will see. Just trying to get good with a spray gun.
all the undersides, inner fenders, under the trunks etc. got two coats of Rust Bullet. I like this stuff because it is hard as a rock. I didn't put it on any rusty metal like they say you can though. I blasted and sanded everything first. the two coats go on about 2-4 hours apart then the next day I would hit it with two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of urethane. I used PPG paint for the epoxy and PPG JAU for the color.
Same for the interior and engine compartment. all these surfaces have 6 coats of paint on them now.
Just got the underside of the pan and the engine compartment finished in epoxy and color today. I still have to reshoot the rear trunk because I burned up the paint there welding in the rear sway bar mounts.
What a pain lying on your back spraying with the car literally 12 inches from your face. The rotisserie would be REALLY nice....
Guess I have to start working on the fenders again..
Attached image(s)
It looks great. I always love to see fresh paint go on. I makes me imagine that must have been how it looked coming off of the assembly line.
Subscibe
Big setback today....
There is a guy I spoke with last week about plastic media blasting the doors, F+ R trunk lids and my spare roof.
So I got my parts out of the storage facility and stripped everything out of the doors. and off the roof. Loaded them up in the truck and thought I would call before I drove down there.
He tells me he is going out of town for a job and won't be back until the 2nd week of November. DAMN DAMN DAMN.
I made a bunch of calls and couldn't find anyone else in the Pittsburgh area that does this. found a guy that does soda but he is mobile and has do it at your place.
that really won't work for me, and I am not real interested in the water that they use to clean off the soda.
Guess I just wait until he gets back. and the weather gets colder by the day here. not great for painting.
its not like I don't have other things too work on, it just screws up the plan...
Rant over..
Still doing body work on the Pass side fenders. not much to show there.
Picked up some parts from the powder coaters, more stuff no one will see.
On the seat mounts I had to devise a way to remove the spring for the tilt mechanism, This is what I came up with. It worked good for both disassembly and reassembly, without damaging my new powder coat.
I put a couple screws in to hold the seat mount and the turnbuckle worked beautifully to pull the spring so I could drive in the pin...
And finished.....
Yeah, I had the tilt levers CHROMED... a good friend runs a chrome shop. I couldn't help myself...
Like I said, More stuff no one will see....
Looking good Tom!
Just a quick bit of advice. I did exactly like you and had my seat runners powder coated. I fitted them back in my car and then put the seats back in only to find they jammed up solid. I then had to figure a way to get at the runners to unbolt them off the floor still stuck to the seats so I could flip over the seats and drift the runners off with a hammer and block of wood.
My advice is take the 2 runners off the base of the seats and check them on your newly powder coated frames before you've fitted them in the car and got the seats stuck!
I had to sand down the mating surfaces of the powder coat to get them to slide easy before I put it all back in the car.
Good luck. (They do look nice)
regards
Darren
Updates? Love this build so much....
Started doing the bodywork on the Pass side, Trying to get out there on the warmer days. easier to heat up the shed.
Then I got a pretty nasty cut across the knuckle of my right hand middle finger. took 7 stiches to close....
Slowed me down a little, was supposed to have a brace on it for 2 weeks.... I didn't think about how much you use that finger. other than for waving at foolish motorists.
anyways every time I started working with it. I would open it back up.
I know excuses are like assholes.....
but in spite of that I did get a couple things accomplished..
stripped the old bearings / races out of my hubs and bead blasted them.
and installed my Elephant Racing rubber bushings in to my front control arms. Not as easy as in the video ( especially with this finger ) but still went pretty smoothly.
Question on the torsion bars, do the L /R markings go in front or in back?
Vendors
I took advantage of 914 Rubbers Black Friday sale and put in an order, even though I won't need the stuff for a little while. price ~ 500
I sent my front A calipers to PMB for a rebuild, and ordered the rest of my brake needs price ~ 2000
Hope to get these damn stiches out in time for Pennsylvania Deer hunting on Monday....
Later..
Time for an update to this.
the bodywork is coming along.
front fender shaping up.
from this.
to this, the flares are very subtle. I like the way its turning out
Still not perfect though
and the rear quarter is shaping up also. this is just rough shaping.
from this angle you can see how much it flares out. I'll be fitting 8'" Fuchs under here.
still working on getting the fender lips right though.
Along the way I am accumulating a lot of body work tools
a bunch of Dura blocks and soft blocks
and a shitload of sandpaper.
too bad the tools don't have magic built into them. you still have to know how to do it.
I am sure a lot of experienced bodymen could do a better job with kitchen utensils though.
Great progress on the bodywork!
I find I spent most of my time with a flexible/firm 17" board. Occasionally you grab the 6" block or a small roll to get the narrow spots.
You definitely have the tools to do the job now!
with the cold weather I am now working on some mechanicals.
stuff I am more comfortable with.
went to put on the turbo tie rod ends and found out that the one side steering rack bushing was really stuck on there. looks like some moisture got in there and rusted it up ( Imagine that, Rust. )
after a bunch of PB blaster, and a soak in kerosene, I decided to try a little heat.
after carefully heating up the rack rod, and some persuasion with a deadblow hammer, not wanting to ruin the NLA end bushings I finally got it to move off the rack. the lathe and some emery cloth to polish the rack helped a lot.
It cleaned up pretty nicely, also put the emery cloth to the rack end bushings.
it all looks good now. just waiting on the bearings I ordered to come in and I can put every thing back together.
Don't do too good of a job on the body work, or all of your 914 friends will want to "un-retire" you!!
Great job you are doing!!!!
Alright, another bodyman on the board. Oh, your build is looking great, too.
Nice progress.
January...
What happened to that month??
Little body work done.
Got my bearings and finished the steering rack.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=273545
Then Feb 2 went to Punxsutawney for Phil's prognostication. 130 yrs. anniversary.
and for only the 18th time in 130 years Phil did not see his shadow. portending an early spring instead of the usual 6 more weeks of Winter...Yeah !!
Since then I got most of the front suspension installed. still have to connect the sway bar. think I will start it at 1/4 from the soft position.
I know most people would finish the body work before starting to put stuff on.
I like to do some mechanical work to get away from the bodywork for a little...
Not my plan, but the car will be able to drive even if its still in primer...and with the early spring that Phil predicted I should have plenty of time to get the bodywork done and paint it....
.
Cold out this morning.... 15 deg. to cold to work in an unheated shed..
Good time to unbox and inspect my new parts from PMB.
rebuilt 911 A front calipers, PMB repro 914 GT rear calipers.
Sebro vented rotors front and back.
rebuilt pressure regulator, new 19mm ATE master cylinder.
Damn those A calipers sure are heavy....
Real nice Tom,
I'm very impressed with your quality of work, the cars going to be fabulous when it's done.
Continuing with some mechanical work.
I installed the new bearings into the rear control arms. also installed the Elephant racing Rubber bushings.
YES it is as big a PITA as others have said. No pictures of the installation..
But a good friend had just bought a HF 20 ton press and that gave me an excuse to go visit and spend a couple hours. No problem getting your hands clean after all the liquid soap we had slathered around. eventually we got the shafts pushed in nicely.
I whipped up this tool out of plumbing supplies to support the rear of the wheel bearing when we pushed the hubs in with the press.
2" pipe with a floor flange. worked great , don't know how often I will use it again though..
Installed the Tangerine shift rod bushing into the firewall and then installed the SS fuel lines. both operations went smoothly.
needed new nuts for the rear control arms and after an exhaustive internet search came up with a BMW part that I like more than the stock original parts. they are flanged all steel locking nuts.
got the rear control arms bolted up and you can see the new flanged nuts in this pic. also the other tangerine SS lines. installed just so I don't lose them.
Yes they are KYB shocks.... I know they are not the favored shock around here but I got a good deal on the set from a friend that only had them on a little while then upgraded to Konis all the way around...
I figure they are an easily replaced item if I don't like them..
I think I will work on replacing the tunnel brake lines next and after I gather the rest of the lines up start to bend new ones. One of my first purchases when I started this project was a line set from AA, it is supposed to have all the lines precut to the correct length with ends already installed. we shall see how that works. Had I know earlier I would have gotten the prebent set from PMB and just been done with it.
So now I have suspension.
moving along...
When I saw your updated subtitle I thought you had been suspended from the build-off challenge.
LOL! Me too...car looks GREAT!
Tony
March 16 progress report.
Still doing body work. I have the pass side in good shape now, at least to my untrained eye.
I have gone from the raw pieced together quarter panel, the result of flaring the fenders.
worked it to this mottled looking mess.
and finally to this much sexier looking shape.
So body work on the pass side is pretty much done. hope it looks good when I get the final paint on it. I still need to revisit the drivers side and do a little more shaping on the fender lips. Many, many hours into this.
Stripped the 35 year old acrylic lacquer paint off of the rear trunk lid, it looks good underneath. only a little work needed here.
shot some epoxy on it before I start.
Have the doors stripped out and will be having them blasted, I know there is a bit of previous bodywork hiding under there, still have to scrap out the old sound deadener before blasting.
After much internal debate I finally decided on what type of paint I am going to use. I am going with PPG Concept, Single stage
So I bit the bullet and purchased my paint. $$$
And decided on a big boy spray gun to go with it. DeVilbiss 670+. I don't want to shoot this paint with a HF gun.
Vendors used.
Spoke for the LED front and rear lights. Thanks Jerry.
also refinished my turn signal buckets and bought new lens for them. and grabbed these LEDs for the reverse lights.
Had Bruce Stone redo my pedal set, and the turn around time was fantastic!! Thanks Bruce.
That's it for now...
I am coming to Hershey for the first time and am looking forward to meeting all of Yinz, I am sure seeing all the running Teeners should be an inspiration. See you in two weeks.
April / May update
More work required on the trunk lid than I thought there would be.
it turned out pretty good.
But I found that even with a bunch of clamp-on lights I still couldn’t see well enough. (the haze in the air is paint , need better ventilation, more on that later. )
So I wired a few switched quad receptacles and put up a bunch of 4000 lumen LED shop lights, seven so far. And I can click them all on or off easily. Now with these and a couple more strategically placed clamp on lights I can see to paint without shadows
Next up was ventilation. Using a couple box fans in the doorway I put wooden/cardboard fillers on each side and attached a piece of heavy construction plastic sheeting across the top of the doorway, to keep dust from being sucked back in.
And put furnace filters into the windows, taped around the edges to give me some filtered fresh air.
Now I am ready to do some painting in my Shed/Custom Paint Booth.
June 2016 update
Back to the drivers side to finalize the work on the fenders and lips. One last wet sanding with 600.
And I shot the cowl, windshield frame and top and inside of the Targa bar. The inside of the Targa bar sail panels were a real PITA to get with a HVLP spray gun, I had some bad runs here and painted one side twice and the other side three times. I finally got a good job after digging out an old siphon feed touch-up gun I hadn’t used for about ten years. I was able to get in there with it and lay down some nice paint.
And FINALLY I get to put some color on the fenders. I have been working to this end for what seems like forever.
Still not done yet though. Since my shed workspace is kind of limited I can only work on or paint one side at a time. So now I have to finish the passenger side. Another round of wet sanding and fixing anything that pops up during that. With my new lights installed I have already found a couple, three spots that need some more attention.
If you have a favorite bodyman that does good work for you, you should take time to go buy him a bottle of Crown. Cause this shit is hard, I would hate to have to do it for a living. Especially as picky a bunch as we are…
Paint looks fantastic!! Congrats!
Looking great
Really really nice work! Going to be a great looking car when done!
Tom, Thanks for sharing all your painting details. It looks great. I'm curious how much difference the single stage makes in getting the results you're after? Not sure how much painting experience you have. I'd like to take on the painting myself (also using single stage), but with little experience at this I wouldn't want to do it twice.
Any insights you can offer?
July 2016 update.
Got the final paint on the passenger side. so the tub is painted. still have to do the doors and front hood.
now I can start putting some parts back on. Also have to paint a bunch of little parts like the hinges, and the headlight covers.
Here are some update pics. I'll post some more after I get it pushed outside, hard to get a good pic inside the shed.
And this is my Happy Face at getting to this point.
Hey Tom,
Looking Goooooooooooooooood :-)
Moved it outside for some pictures. paint turned out good. still will need a cut and buff.
And starting to put stuff back on...
Refinished the headlight mechanisms and got them installed. Had to hunt down some little parts, Thanks for friends with parts cars... I need to get one of those..
Installed the PMB 914/6 GT rear calipers and the vented rotors. also got all the hydraulic lines and hoses installed , glad I kept the old lines to use as a pattern. still need a couple little parts for the parking brake
those rear calipers should play nice with the with the A calipers and vented rotors on the front.
PMB also rebuilt my pressure regulator... Thanks Eric..
It is really great to empty out some boxes and get parts on the car...
I imagine I'm not the only one sitting here on a Friday night, drinking a beer, looking at this thread with an intense melancholic jealousy.
Great work!
Looking very good!
Great job with the paint!
Are they aluminum alloy rear calipers ?
OK, well 9-14 day has come and gone and I am still not running yet, so that puts me out of contention for the win. For me it wasn't about the win anyways, I just liked the push to get some work done worthy of sharing with the 914 community.
Congratulations to those that did get their cars running
Andrew, Darren, Garland, Jeff and Philip. great job.
I worked through a few more setbacks. First when I finally started to strip off the doors to get them ready to take and be blasted I discovered that the drivers door was hammered. someone did a pretty good job of hiding the work and it stayed hidden for the 37 years I owned the car. but I didn't think it was worth my time to try and fix this mess. These are some of those rare doors, 9-72 thru 12-72 late window mechanism and no door bars. didn't think I was going to find another of those so....
so after checking out a couple doors a friend had, I contacted Garold and he picked me out a nice one.
they are at the blasters now then I will go to work on them.
I wanted to get it on the ground and started to look at tires to fit the 7 and 8 in Fuchs I wanted to run. Well in spite of getting the fenders flared it looks like the 8 inchers may not work, even with 225 / 50 -16.
I really like these wheels though........
I have another idea but I will do a little more research before I decide what to run. But this will have to happen soon. I want to get it on the ground before I put the engine back in.
Spent 4 days working on the brakes. two days to finally get the system bled and two more to get the venting clearance tight and have a working parking brake. The brakes feel good now ( at least pressing on them in the garage) so I think I am good to go with that.
I got the rear sway bar mounted and picked up a new creeper... this thing is like a Magic Carpet the way it slides around, No more fighting with my old creeper to roll around, or it eating my shirt....
This really helped while working on the brakes.
Still Moving along.
Tom
Hard to believe those wheels won't fit under GT flares?
Or are you talking under the stock fenders?
Car is looking great BTW!
man, very nice work!
I wanted to get it on the ground and started to look at tires to fit the 7 and 8 in Fuchs I wanted to run. Well in spite of getting the fenders flared it looks like the 8 inchers may not work, even with 225 / 50 -16.
I really like these wheels though........
I have another idea but I will do a little more research before I decide what to run. But this will have to happen soon. I want to get it on the ground before I put the engine back in.
Still Moving along.
Tom
[/quote]
The way the trailing arm rotates will bring the wheel inboard slightly under load. Disconnect the Spring/shock with the wheel on and lift it up to a loaded position to see if fender clearance improves
Another little bit I spent too much time on.......
dug out the heater control lever and thought. I can't run this crusty looking thing.
I guess the carpet holds moisture against the lever.
So off to the chrome shop with it... A good friend runs the chrome shop, so he usually can get little parts through for me quickly. this piece took a LOT of sanding to get rid of all the pits and then he had it in the nickel tank for over 4 hours to build it up. then on to the chrome tank.
Looks much better now.
I could have just painted it but that wouldn't be right....
This is just an example of why it takes me so long when working on this car.... OCD.. Maybe..
The 8s with 225s should fit fine.
[quote name='barefoot' date='Sep 20 2016, 06:51 AM' post='2400755']
I wanted to get it on the ground and started to look at tires to fit the 7 and 8 in Fuchs I wanted to run. Well in spite of getting the fenders flared it looks like the 8 inchers may not work, even with 225 / 50 -16.
I really like these wheels though........
I have another idea but I will do a little more research before I decide what to run. But this will have to happen soon. I want to get it on the ground before I put the engine back in.
Still Moving along.
Tom
[/quote]
The way the trailing arm rotates will bring the wheel inboard slightly under load. Disconnect the Spring/shock with the wheel on and lift it up to a loaded position to see if fender clearance improves
[/quote]
Ok, This may work....
I leveled out my cart and disconnected the shock to enable it to move up to more of a running position and the clearance did increase. from 3/16 to about 3/4 inch. that should be enough to clear the 225/ 50 - 16 s
This is with 2 inch vertical from rim to fender lip. I really just guessed on the ride height.
presently there is a 2mm shim installed and my rough measurement shows it to be around 2 deg negative camber
So I may be able to stay with Plan A ,
Plan B involves different wheels and it would be better if I didn't have to go there...
Go to a tire store and ask them to mount a used 225/50/16 because you want to check fitment. Tell them not to put any weights on it or anything and they can even write on the tire not for road use.
Then put the wheel on, take the shock off, and move it through the wheel arch. You should have 1/2" play on the inside and outside on a 50 series tire to prevent rubbing on load.
Quick note. You CAN mount 205's on 8's if you need it. it'll have a little of the modern "Stretch" look to it, but it'll function all the same. If you have any stretch to those fenders then 225's might work.
So I took a leap of faith and ordered the tires. BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2
Fronts 205 50 16 on 7" rims
Rear 225 50 16 on 8" rims
Well its been a while since I updated this thread, but I haven't quit on it.
In the last installment I had painted up the hinge hardware. then after mounting them with the new rollers I noticed a crack on the passenger side trunk lid mount. I had already repaired the drivers side before painting it and had looked at the pass side then and it looked ok. ..... Well it wasn't. Fortunately I found it while I could still get in there, unfortunately it was previously repaired by brazing it
So I had to grind out all the brass and get in there with the mig to fix it right. I am still learning with this mig but did manage to get in there, it should hold up now. Then I had to fix the paint I just burned up with the mig....
Since I had just picked up the doors from a local restoration shop that I had taken them to be blasted inside and out. I started on these.
then found that the shop had added some warp to my doors when blasting them.
so they were going to need some more bodywork. They are ready now just waiting on some warmer temps to paint them (might be a couple months now)
Worked on mounting the fuel pump and filter. not a lot of room with the sway bar there.
After joining the engine and trans and strapping it to a cart, it started on its journey from the garage to the shed.
I had to use the winch to pull the combo up the ramp into the shed, and into place under the car.
Using a couple pieces of allthread on the front motor mounts and a floor jack under the trans, I was able to get the engine raised into place without damaging anything.
although this is a slow method it gave me a lot of opportunity to make sure everything was clearing. I angled up one side first to clear the fuel injector lines and clear the tins on the suspension bolts.
You can see the allthread still in place this picture above. It worked great..
After much parts cleaner, elbow grease and a liberal dose of Barkeepers Friend my once cruddy looking Heat Exchangers shined up nicely.
To keep the copper exhaust gaskets in place while I installed the HE's I sprayed them with some of this. it provided just enough stickiness to keep them in while I fitted the HE's
Then I could put on the Custom Deluxe Triad Exhaust System.
I had a bung added for an AFR gauge.
And some Chrome tips for a little extra Bling.
These pipes fit up PERFECTLY. Thanks Dave.
very high quality, can't wait to hear how they sound.
Just dropped off a couple heater parts for powder coat yesterday, and can finish up that stuff once I have everything back..
I keep putting off tackling the front airbox installation, having read what a PITA that job is. But know I will have to get to sometime. Still have to put the wiper motor and linkage in first of course. and dream up something for the windshield washers.
But that all for now folks.
This is looking really clean. Great job. Keep it up.
beautiful!
Updates?
With the airbox in place now I can work on the gas tank stuff.
I had already installed the fuel pump, moving it to the front. its a tight fit with the front sway bar but everything clears nicely
the gas tank was pretty clean inside with just a little rust at the very bottom and when scraping this I uncovered a couple pin holes. so after having this professionally repaired at a local Tank Renew place and pressure tested it was ready for a coat of paint and install.
With the fuel taken care of it was time to move on to shifting.
next up was the installation of this beautiful piece .
Jwest Rennshifter.
I think I have it adjusted correctly but won't really know until I try to move it under its own power.
That day is coming soon.
Still have a couple things left to paint and the front hood is the largest of these. also need to paint the headlight doors and the eyebrows.
Since the hood still had the 30+ year old acrylic lacquer paint job on it I decided to strip it totally down and start from scratch. It looks good but I can feel some imperfections that will need to be leveled out.
when cleaning up the underside I used my sandblaster and sand just KEPT ON coming out from under the ribs on the bottom.
using a combination of air pressure and vacuum I managed to get most of it out, but I still find a couple pieces of black beauty creeping out.
Little Hood humor > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=311019&hl=
Looking great!
Drove the car yesterday.
First time it has moved under its own power for 27+ years.
After chasing a couple vacuum leaks that held the idle above 3000 and doing the cam break-in. I got the idle to settle down around 1100-1200 then after a little clutch adjustment I drove it up and down the driveway a few times. Then took it down the street, and when all went good ventured around the block. 3.1 miles
Finally getting past the 137,000 mile mark
No hood, bumpers, rocker panels, or valences installed and just the drivers seat bolted in, no carpets, door panels, etc. I have a lot to finish. all the window mechanisms are lubed and installed and work smoothly.
for the legal weenies out there, I do have new plates and insurance (they were in the trunk )
Unbelievably I seemed to have gotten the Rennshifter adjusted correctly the first time as I was easily able to shift. I don't think I took it past 3rd gear, there were too many things to try to monitor.
It was a momentous day.
Now back to work..... get sanding on that hood.
Congrats on getting rolling. Great looking car. Mine will never look that good.
Where in the burgh are yinz?? I am in the south hills.
A Big Congratulations. You earned it. Very clean work.
Congrats!!!! Sure is looking great!
After blocking the hood, painted it along with the headlight doors and eyebrows.
Then did some work on the bumpers, I built a couple wooden frames to hold the bumpers while I worked on them, they clamped securely into the workmate stands it made it a lot easier hammering and sanding on them. The rear needed some massaging from being hit by a Lincoln years ago. Put paint on them also. Used SEM euro black trim paint. If I would do it again I would use the SPI black epoxy and add acetone to get the satin look. the good thing about the SEM paint is you can just buy another quart or spray can and it will still match. I will be using it on all the other trim pieces, and the rocker covers.
What a great build !
Wow congrats! That is fantastic. The car looks great to.
Installed the hood and bumpers and did some more tuning to the MPS. Then out for state inspection and alignment and we are ready to drive.
I had set up the MPS using the figures for a 037 MPS on Anders site. This ended up being Waaay too lean for my engine configuration. I was obsessing over getting the readings accurate when I happened to call Chris Foley to ask about another thing and mentioned this. He told me to just back out the inner screw 1 turn or more. Since my previous adjustments were like a few degrees at a time one full turn seemed crazy.. But hey what do I know….
I went 1 ¼ turns for good measure and got a mixture that was too rich. Good, change in the right direction.
One more adjustment and I think its PERFECT. I don’t even want to touch it again.
Great AFR numbers cruising and the head temps are right where they should be. It’s a little rich on start-up with AFR at around 10.8 – 11.2 and doesn’t idle real smooth, but after about two miles it warms up enough to be in the low 13s. and idles nice then, I’m fine with that.
Did my first oil change from the Brad Penn break in oil at 450 mile and put in Brad Penn 20-50. I now have 675 miles on the rebuilt engine and it runs great.
Got the new carpet installed and the rest of the interior. Replacing all the door seals and new door panels from 914Rubber.
Could not be happier, I am driving it a good bit and had forgotten how much fun it was. The motorcycles will be getting jealous.
I still have a couple little things to do, like the rear valence which I will be putting on, and getting a radio hooked up. But for now…
I am calling it DONE. !!!
It took just over four years to get from something that for most would be a lost cause and just a parts car to something that turns heads anytime I drive it.
That.
Is.
So.
BEAUTIFUL!
Wow, just fabulous.
Beautiful car, great job!!
Congratulations! It's an awesome feeling to get it back out on road. Car looks great!
Fantastic job. Your skills are superb. The paint work is great. I can appreciate how difficult that is to get right.
Well done. Have fun.
Congrats!! Looks fantastic!
Very nice job. Love the color and the contrast of the black to the blue.
Enjoy
Bob B
Thanks for all your kind words. this would have been much harder without the 914World brain trust to help out. and along the way I learned many things that may help others down the road..
During one of my "test drives" we went to Ligonier PA, a friend owns an Ice Cream shop on the Diamond. we were fortunate to get a parking spot on the diamond near the shop, and when I opened the door to get out after parking, there was a guy standing there. He said "Nice car" and all and I was only really half listening to him when I heard him say "I have one" Now I am paying closer attention. I said this was a '73. so was his. So now we start talking a bit more, him telling me it was his fathers car and it was passed down to him. After a bit my GF decides to go into the ice cream shop and about 5 or so minutes later I join her. We were just finishing up our ice cream and headed out to show our friend Dave the car, when the guy walks into the shop. He said "I thought you might want to see it" Well it turns out he only lives a couple minutes away and not only did he go home, get his car to bring it down but somehow also got a parking spot on the diamond RIGHT NEXT TO ME! Unbelivable.. he had introduced himself to me as Russ but turns out his nickname is Rusty.
His car wasn't rusty though. '73 1.7 still had the djet. it was like we had our own little car show going on with all the people walking up admiring the cars and asking questions.
Dave the ice cream shop owner was incredulous, what are the chances of someone around even owning another one of these cars let alone bringing it down and parking next to me....
Fun Times.
Ice cream, 914s and new friends. What could be better?
Since finishing the car I have been taking small trips increasing the mileage each time, I had racked up about 1600 miles on the rebuilt engine and in October 2017 we were heading to Niagara Falls Canada for a little vacation. Well things were running good rolling along at about 70-75 until I heard an unusual ticking noise. So I got off the interstate about a ½ mile later and limped into a little shop with a VW Beetle and a 928 sitting outside. The owner came out smiling and pointed out a 914 sitting on the side. I knew then this was a good place to be. Anyways after poking around and pulling some plug wires we determined that #3 was dead. That explained the CHT gauge reading so low. So onto the flatbed it went.
After getting it home and pulling the valve cover off I discovered that one of the rocker arm studs on #3 had busted and the other had come loose. So the engine had to come out to fix it. To pull the head you have to take off most of the cooling tins and I felt like I had really gone backwards.
Took the head to a machine shop I use regularly but it didn’t work out so well this time. It’s a one man shop and he had a lot of other things going on, after 7 weeks of “it will be ready next Tuesday or Wednesday” I picked up the head and took it somewhere else for the repair. But now we are into December, and really at the end of the driving season.
While the engine was out I bought into the 123 Ignition GB and installed that. Also the CV’s were making some noise and when I disassembled them I discovered that a couple snap rings had come loose and was allowing the axle to walk back and forth and rub on the trans flanges. Since I had seen CuddyK’s video of him unboxing the new axles available from Porsche, I ordered a set of these. Mine looked to be probably still usable but with 137K miles on them I figured new ones should be the last ones I would have to buy.
By February I had everything back together and the engine reinstalled.
I am now going through the same process of taking small trips and keeping an eye on the head temps, AFR and oil temps. Everything seems to be running smoothly and within recommended ranges. It has about 2000 miles on it so far, but still feels a little tight.
Planning to bring it to Hershey this year and let it see some other running 914s
Keeping my fingers crossed.
Just about my favorite narrow body car on this website....a stud of a car. The color, all the attention to detail, etc. Hope it's a small problem easily fixed. Still jealous as hell with your rear calipers you dog. Best of luck with everything.
Right now I am running without a rear valence. I kind of like the Hot-rod look of it. And even though the Triad muffler looks cool, it does seem to be missing something.
My old valence had cut-outs for the Monza type muffler I used to run. And it was well done. But now of course that will not work. I picked up a nice stock rear valence at Hershey and had planned to modify that to fit the Triad muffler, since the one side already had the correct cut-out. But now I think that I would rather not modify a good stock part. So I dug out the old valence and found it really wasn’t in bad shape. And I was looking for a welding project to help me learn to use the MIG.
So I decided to do some welding.
The old cut-out was just covered with a piece of sheet metal and spot welded on so I had to take that off.
Then I formed a couple pieces to fill in the old notches and used them as a pattern to cut out the valence.
Welding these in was tricky because the only metal I had around that was close was 22 ga .
You might as well be trying to weld tinfoil. I used a big hunk of copper for a heat sink to help prevent burn through. And a HF copper welding backer for places I couldn’t get the big piece into.
Not a pretty as the Metal Surgeon work but no pin holes, and I don’t care about a little body work on it. When it’s mounted you would have to be on your knees to critique my work anyways.
Next I have to make a pattern of the cut-out and transfer it to the other side, leaving enough to fold under. I might have to cut a couple splits to get it to fold under right but time will tell. And I may get to do more practice welding.
I am kind of hoping it looks like it was meant to be this way.
You might have a go at making a hammer form to use when creating the other side opening. It's amazing how much you can get metal to move and what a nice finish you can get. Best of all is no welding/distorting/grinding of the metal (assuming your hammer form is a good fit.)
No matter the method, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.
And I agree: This is one of the prettiest cars on the World. Great job!
Just bumping this back up to say, I don’t know how I missed this resto Tom.
That’s a beautiful 914. Well done. Hope it’s running well for you
& how did the valence turn out?
Hope to see ya at Hershey one day or Carlisle!
So some time had passed before finishing the rear valence because I had other things to deal with like the broken trunk hinge. Decided to pull the engine out to make it easier to repair and using the lathe cut a grease grove in the hinge bolts to prevent it from happening again. (I hope)
Details of that repair are here> http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=334897&hl=
Of course there are always some "while you're in there" things to do.
like fixing the leaking oil temp sender taco plate, setting the valves and replacing the throttle cable. The throttle cable had cracked at the ferrule so to help support it I put some heat shrink over the ferrule / cable and dug a spring out of the stash that just fit tight.
Then I always thought it sat a little too high and the KYB shocks were just a stopgap measure to get me on the road.
Time for some proper Koni's
Ground Control fixed me up with a package that included the shocks, springs and adjustable sleeves. since this is mainly a street car I decided to go with the 125# springs for the ride, my old springs were 100 or 110# so not much of a change there.
If I don't like it.... springs are not too expensive or hard to change.
So now its sitting at a much nicer height. AND will probably ride better.
I can't wait for better weather to try them out on the local twisties.
You will be thrilled with the ride.
This looks like a cool set-up with these Koni Ground Control coil over shocks.
2019 Winter projects.
During some of my drives I noticed the oil temps getting high, into the 240-250 range on hot days. So adding an aux oil cooler seemed to be a good idea. Guess the 2056 makes a little more heat than the stock 1.7.
Mentioned this at Okteenerfest and Danny @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=6509 sent me a sandwich adapter he wasn’t using, giving me some more incentive.
I used a Setrab 119 fanpack cooler and their 180 deg cooler thermostat, I added the 190 deg switch to trigger the fan. Looking through other oil cooler threads I liked the routing of lines above the tins so as not to block the valve cover.
Pictures of the brackets, everything fits in there nice.
It helps to have a friend with a bandsaw and bending brake.
With this short of a run from the adapter to the thermostat the AN10 lines may as well be rigid. So I had to have the lines determine the position of the thermostat.
I used the hole that the J tube used to go into. I was getting plenty of heat with just the one hose from the blower anyways. I capped the S pipe.
the fan thermostat is mounted in the black piece in this picture It also allowed me to stack the lines vertically on their way to the cooler.
The fan is a pull through type, with shroud.
Space is a premium in this area and I had to make a standoff to move the MPS a couple inches so everything would clear.
Used AN10 lines to give enough flow. Things are pretty crowded in this area now, I was worried about clearing the injectors. But everything clears. it isn't easy getting your fingers down in there to work though.
The best part is I didn't have to remove the engine to install everything.
Being March, the temps are not yet hot enough for a real test but a speed run down the turnpike today, a 60 deg day, I only saw the oil temps hit 205 and it moves back down much quicker than it used to.
Tom,
What a nice clean job! Congrats. That should give you nice results this summer!
Wait, you started a 914 project and actually finished it and drove it?
Shame on you, that's that's not allowed.
You are supposed to work on it for the rest of your natural life and "almost" get it running or almost ready for paint.
BTW great looking car, I like.
Just COOLIN' it
Was pretty happy with the results of the oil cooler installation (See post #119)
Driving it quite a bit and the oil temps rarely get over 220. even on the hottest days, and we have had a run of 90+ deg days lately.
But I remember a situation when I had a Thermostat flap issue, and pulled over in traffic to let it cool down. I had popped the engine lid to cool things off and pulled back out onto the highway forgetting to close it again. I was surprised at how much of a difference it made. I do have a rain tray fitted.
This got me thinking about the GT lids that Sergio makes. @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1219 Since he has acquired a lot of lids to work with, I wouldn't have to give up my original lid as a core.
Definite plus.
So I finally ordered one and after getting a set of letters from Mark I installed it yesterday.
Took a few tweeks to get it fit my car right, but I like it.
And now in the late fall I can put the regular lid with rain tray back on. then switch it out when the weather gets hotter.
drove it around yesterday for about 30 miles, it was in the low 80s so not as hot as it has been.
CHT numbers were noticeably down. I expect that it will help reduce the oil temps also.
Maybe I will get a temp gauge like @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=15565 has and do a back to back comparison with GT lid vs stock lid +raintray.
Under Trunk Temp thread. > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=347282
It would be interesting to see how much the GT lid affects the other temps, like oil and CHT. It may even drop the under trunk temps.
The real test will be the drive to Teenerpaluza, I wanted to have this installed before the ride down.
See Yinz there.
Damn, your '14 looks great - drive on!
I like that hose setup. I had an idea bouncing around in my head of pulling air from the little side screen and directing it down to the oil cooler.
Maybe using a marine bilge blower. they are small enough and already set up for hose attachments.
I don't know if they would hold up to continual use though.
More food for thought.....
If you plan to swap your GT lid with the "stock" on for the rainy season, cut slots on the engine lid hinges. This will enable you to loosen (instead of removing) the 10mm bolts and slide the lids on and off.
It is truly amazing to me how skillfull good body men are are at bringing back the rusted dead cars. Hard to believe what they do. On a car like this I would have thought there is no way before I came on this forum. Makes me believe man can do almost anything when he puts his mind to it. "A mind is a terrible thing to waste."
Well all of my work got some National recognition.
Panorama did a feature on my car.
Back in October I received a cryptic email.
14 Pages -----
That’s all the email said. It was from Rich Chenet, A photographer I met on the way back from Hershey in 2019.
I was driving the 914 and had just pulled into a rest stop on the PA turnpike. I parked Waay down the lot, away from everyone.
Then a Saab station wagon pulls up and parks right in front of me. WTF.
This guy gets out and says “Hey, You wanna RACE?” I laughed and said “No I don’t want to race, I’m just happy to make up these hills without overheating.”
Then he proceeds to tell me about how fast his Saab wagon was, with its big Turbo. …blah blah blah.
Turns out he was also on his way back from the Hershey Swap meet. He had been taking pictures there. He is a photographer for Panorama and other automotive magazines. So we are talking and he is checking out the car.
And then he takes a few pictures, with his Phone. He has all this high end equipment and he’s taking pictures of my car with his phone….
We bullshit a bit more and I tell him a little about the car.
Then we exchange numbers and emails and off I go.
Couple months later I get a phone call from him, He says Pano is interested in my car and wanted some background story.
It turns out Rich is a really cool guy but just likes to mess with you.
In July 2019 we get together to take some pictures.
This time he has all the high end gear and takes about 700+ pictures.
More time passes and a Pano writer Ted West contacts me and we spend a couple hours on the phone talking about the car. What I did to it, How long I had it, Funny stories etc.
And time kept rolling on.
Finally I get a message that it was going to be in the Nov. 2020 issue.
So if you get Porsche Panorama magazine be sure to check out the 14 Page ... article this month on my Olympic Blue 1973 914.
Rich Chenet did a great job with the pictures and Ted West wrote a humorous and informative story.
Guess this will be my Fifteen Minutes of Fame that Andy Warhol predicted everyone will have once in their life.
Its great to see our little cars getting some attention, Even though I am obviously biased.
Link to thread > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=349948&st=0#entry2867382
Photographer Rich Chenet.
The Pano story caught my attention at how loyal an owner can be to a quirky little car like ours. I just finished reading through the entire build thread, and it is an amazing story. Congratulations for a job really well done!
Tom
Beautiful job! DO you still have it? I am new and just starting, building a rotisserie to do my floors. Good to see another yinzer here. Maybe I'll catch you at the PVGP
Kevin
Put the bullet nosed studs on the rear last February.
I saw these on a buddy's drag car, thought they really looked good.
and will let me add some spacers.
Got around to doing the fronts this week.
was getting some rubbing with the 225-50 x16s on the Pass side so I put 2mm spacers on to try and reduce that some.
Not much space there, I tried 3mm spacers and it rubbed on the outer lip.
I'll be running 7mm spacers on the front, to bring them out a little, lots of room on the front.
Painted the A calipers with VHT caliper paint, They were getting a little cruddy looking.
And with the Fuchs mounted
Another February project
Was FINALLY doing a cut and buff on the paint, PPG Single stage that was put on 4 years ago and really got hard.
It looked pretty good but I had put 6 coats on and had some marks on the trunk lid I didn't like. So the time was right.
Started out blocking with 1200g on a Durablock, went to 1500, and 2000. Then got the DA and did 3000 gr and 5000gr.
Pictures of this process are hard to see the difference.
Then using 3M system of 3 different buffing compunds.
Took a LONG time but the results are worth it.
Righteous car, nice work. Congrats on the spread
Tom
3m has 8000 gr now. You can make the jump from 3000-8000. Once you hit 8 it's nothing to buff. Looks sweet either way
Kevin
Just read the entire thread, great project and story. Thank you for documenting your work.
Just one ? how does anyone find the time for these builds??
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