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Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2003, 05:23 PM

i startmy car this morning, and i look down from the open engine lid.....blip the rpm's a few times. ..and to my HORROR, i see a broken dipstick guide channel! the little tube that holds the dipstick broke a cm above where it goes into the case! what do i do!

PS i like the new smilies!

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Jun 10 2003, 05:39 PM

Make your dipstick shorter?

Posted by: scotty Jun 10 2003, 05:56 PM

Duct tape?

J B Weld?

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 10 2003, 05:58 PM

Find a short piece of steel tube that is a tight (press) fit over the dipstick tube and splice it together.
Maybe use some lock-tight on the outside of the dipstick tube, stick it together, then cover the finished splice with a gob of silly-cone.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2003, 06:03 PM

am i able to replace it?...can i go buy a part from a vw place? do i have to drop the motor, split the case?

that wouls suck

Posted by: MarkV Jun 10 2003, 06:06 PM

Make your dipstick shorter?

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2003, 06:09 PM

lol, no really, van i buy a new one? how hard is it to install? i hope it soesnt involve splitting the case on my freshly rebuilt engine! ! i dont know how it broke

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 10 2003, 06:11 PM

am i able to replace it?...can i go buy a part from a vw place? do i have to drop the motor, split the case?

that wouls suck @$$!!!!!

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2003, 06:12 PM

how is it attached to the engine?

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 10 2003, 06:20 PM

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2003, 06:27 PM

OHCRAP! so i am screwed...dangit..ill try your idea, brazing it sounds better tho....

Posted by: need4speed Jun 10 2003, 06:29 PM

Any idea HTF it got broken in the first place? I think we'd all like to know how we might avoid such a hideous fate.

Personally, I'd get some solder and braze it back together. On my non-914, I don't reckon I'd have to drop my engine. Is that the case for a 914?

Posted by: seanery Jun 10 2003, 07:11 PM

dumb question coming!

"If you braze it how do you keep the oil from igniting?"

Posted by: Bleyseng Jun 10 2003, 07:19 PM

I did repair one on a friend 914 using tubing that just barely fit over the broken dipstick tube. Had to tap it on but it has lasted about 2 years so far without leaks. Much easier than junking the block.
Geoff

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2003, 07:51 PM

well...bad news. took a second look, and its about flush wit the case. (gulp) ....i think it could be brazed tho. ill borrow a digi cam, and sna p a few.
sucks royally, i think it might have been a little weak from the PO <_<

Posted by: Dave Blackburn Jun 11 2003, 11:22 AM

Here is something to check out. Looks like it might work.
http://www.muggyweld.com/acthread.html
Dave

Posted by: Mike D. Jun 11 2003, 03:19 PM

That tube is just pressed down into the case about 1/2 inch or so. I one time pulled one out on accident. the end in the case has ridges to hold it in place. I just put some JB Weld on it and stuck it back in the hole. If you can get the broken piece out of the case you in good shape.

go to the junk yard and pull one out of a bus

-Mike D.

Posted by: Mountain914 Jun 11 2003, 04:19 PM

Pulling it out of the case sounds best - as you don't have much of a 'foundation'. If it doesn't pull, use a tap/die and put threads down into the remaining tube - then screw some rod down into it and 'tap' it out. Still will not come? Drill remaining material out, being careful of course. Put in new tube and flush and change oil.

Seanery - I have welded and brazed on engines while still in the car, I simply kept a trickle of water running through it from the garden hose. Not so much as to keep it so cold I couldn't work on it, but enough to prevent fires.

Posted by: Bruce Allert Jun 11 2003, 05:19 PM

If ya can't pull it out use some Epoxy Putty sold thru McMaster Carr. It's like JB Weld but better. It's a 2 part stick pre mixed. Cut what you want & knead it like clay till mixed. Flatten it out & wrap it around the clean tube. Clean the area on the block real good where it's gonna stick to. This stuff will even cure under water and stops leaks. It gets so hard you can drill & tap it. I use it a lot in our shop... it's indespensable.
Oh ya, the product # at www.mcmastercarr.com is 7531A11 . Put it in the search and it'll come up. Some FLAPS sell it too.
bruce

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 12 2003, 10:45 AM

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 1 2003, 09:16 PM

ok....here is the status...

The P.O. had already brazed the thing! but with brazing, you cant get ll the way (360 degrees) around the tube....how can i pull one out of a donor case? andnor damage it before re-install?

Posted by: tryan Jul 2 2003, 09:24 AM

the mahogany transom light broke at the base on my 43 year old boat. the cure was a brass toilet tank fill line inserted up the center of the mast.


how much is sticking out of the case?


take the top half to the hardware store and find a suitable outer sleeve in the plumbing department. copper refrigerant (sp) line come in odd sizes. you should be able to find something with a tight fit.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 2 2003, 09:27 AM

thats what im trying to locate at the moment.....its hard to believe that the part isnt available new

Posted by: tryan Jul 2 2003, 09:42 AM

3/8 outer diameter soft copper might have the proper inner diameter to be a force fit. if you know anybody that does ac work, refrigerant soft copper comes in quite a variety of sizes.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jul 2 2003, 01:31 PM

thanx for the tip