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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Shock mount tie downs

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 11:39 AM

can some one post a sketch with the size and hole dia. for the tie down brackets that mount on the rear shock lower bolts. I have a bunch of heavy steal and a way to nock out a couple of sets of these

Posted by: synthesisdv Mar 10 2005, 01:42 PM

don't know the size but I'll take a set if you can make extra.

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 02:29 PM

The cost will be VERRY reasonable. Get the picture and measurements for the fronts and I bet those could be made also.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 10 2005, 02:33 PM

these?
user posted image
and these?

Posted by: groot Mar 10 2005, 03:21 PM

Does anybody else worry about loading the rear suspension through that point?.... assuming one crosses their straps. And knowing how the outside rear trailing arm mount is slotted for alignment.

Towing loads are generally much greater than loads seen on the street.

Posted by: synthesisdv Mar 10 2005, 03:25 PM

I can't imagine that any load in a normal towing situation comes close to what the suspension sees in places like turn 17 at Sebring. The left side of the car is all loaded up there and then throw in the bumps etc...

thinks its a pretty safe pick up pt for the straps.

Posted by: groot Mar 10 2005, 03:34 PM

You might be surprised. That tire gives a lot more than a strap, especially with two pulling against each other. Braking, turning, bumps, and acceleration with the tow vehicle manifests its load through those straps, trying to pull those poor little trailing arms together.

I agree that in most circumstances the load is small, but one emergency braking manuever over a bump while towing and there's a bigger spike on those trailing arms than they'll see on the track.

For example: Ford has very specific tough ocean/rail shipping tie down tests that are usually the most stringent test for the body of a vehicle. The loads are higher in that test than any other test, now some of that has to do with connecting rail cars.... clang

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 07:03 PM

Aaron I just get the red Xs' no pics.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 10 2005, 07:05 PM

for larry

Attached image(s)

Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 10 2005, 07:05 PM

again....

Attached image(s)

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 07:08 PM

That works thanks.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 10 2005, 07:15 PM

QUOTE (spare time toys @ Mar 10 2005, 06:08 PM)
That works thanks.

for that...id like a free set!

serious though.... couldnt hurt to have a set.... looks like you neeed to cut and bend.... thats it......

ill take a set powdercoated red... LOL

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 07:33 PM

I took a temp spot over in plant maint. at work. we are making the tail stands to work overhaul on 737s . They are made out of 4 inch 1/4 wall tube. I figure I can get a bunch out of the tube scraps we have. Also a nice asortment of plate thicknesses. We have one of those Paranah hydraulic shears it goes through 1/4 inch plate like a knife does butter. Its scarry strong.

Posted by: Racer Chris Mar 10 2005, 08:30 PM

Aaron, those front brackets are useless on a 914, despite what the vendor says. LarryP bought a set based on the website ad for me to install on his car and I can say without a doubt they are not right for a 914. The front bolt boss is a different height than the two other bosses.
Even with a little redesign there are problems fitting a similar bracket to a 914 due to the proximity to the front valence. You might get away with it if you have an air dam instead of the valence but I'm not so sure.
At the front I use non-ratcheting adjustable straps. I wrap them around the transverse part of the a-arms, then go forward to one ring at the center-front of the trailer.

I don't like to cross my rear straps for the same reason Kevin mentioned - too much chance of changing the toe setting.
I wrap a short strap around the round tube part of the trailing arm, even though it is difficult to get past the caliper. Then I attach the ratchet strap to that and go straight back to a ring at the back of the trailer. This has worked perfectly for me for a number of years.
No reason you couldn't use the rings at the back but don't cross the straps.

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 08:42 PM

Is a1/4 to thick or just what is a good thickness?

Posted by: Racer Chris Mar 10 2005, 08:52 PM

3/16" or 1/4" will work ok.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 10 2005, 08:56 PM

1/4 is THICK stuff.....

aim for 3/16..... how are you cutting them and folding the fronts??

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 10 2005, 09:14 PM

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Mar 10 2005, 09:56 PM)
1/4 is THICK stuff.....

aim for 3/16..... how are you cutting them and folding the fronts??

Remember that Paranah I was telling about. slice and dice then weld. actualy if the front ones you show dont work on a 914 Ill just make a bunch of rears. I can spray bumb them red and you can repaint or powder how ever you wish. Ill figure out rears and post a shot next week. I am doing a swap meet this weekend.

Posted by: spare time toys Mar 15 2005, 03:37 PM

I am not where I can check at the moment but need the diameter of the lower bolt for the shock. I need it so I can punch the hole in the plate for the rear tow hook.

Posted by: synthesisdv Mar 25 2005, 12:46 PM

perfect timing larry, thanks, got the tie downs today and she's going on the trailer tomorrow.

I don't think there is enough room on my bolt unless I remove the inner rubber spacer, is that going to create a problem?

Have others been able to install tie downs on the rear bolt?

I know it doesn't have anything to do with your units in particular, maybe my car is just different?

Posted by: 9146R Mar 25 2005, 01:14 PM

I have a set of 4 lug nut replacements - with the oversized eyebolt on end. These work very nicely with the tie-down straps. As I recall they are readily available from Tweeks and other catalogue providers. Good luck.