I am reassembling a stock 2.0 but it seems that no matter how many times I re-check with the torque wrench, some of the nuts on the head studs still turn a little bit every time while others hold steady after their first torque to 23 ft-lbs.
I torqued in the correct sequence as recommented in the Wilson rebuild book. But, as I said, when I let the engine sit and then go back and re-check, some of those damn nuts turn slightly.
I finally pulled a head and cylinders off and removed the studs. The threads in the case appear normal, with nice, sharp threads, so I don't think the studs are pulling out, or can one tell just by looking? . Also, it seems that some of the long studs are doing this, but not the shorter top studs. What could be going on? I can't imagine that the studs are stretching.
Should I just duct tape the heads on? Glue? Chewing gum?
Andrew
Does the spec call for anti seize or oil on the threads and under the nut? I've been told before to back off 1/4 turn or so before retorquing, but that was for a water cooled engine.
You going to the speed fest in fontana with me and Tony?
QUOTE (bondo @ Mar 11 2005, 10:57 AM) |
Does the spec call for anti seize or oil on the threads and under the nut? I've been told before to back off 1/4 turn or so before retorquing, but that was for a water cooled engine. |
QUOTE (bondo @ Mar 11 2005, 10:58 AM) |
You going to the speed fest in fontana with me and Tony? |
QUOTE (phantom914 @ Mar 11 2005, 01:56 PM) | ||
Hmm. I did apply anti-seize to the short studs since they are exposed and rust, but I did not apply any to the long studs which are under the rocker cover and get oiled. Could that make a difference I wonder? Andrew |
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