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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Trailing arm removal
Posted by: jack20 Mar 28 2016, 11:52 PM
Today I removed the RH axle and hub on the way to a CV service, bearing replacement and hopefully rear bushings. Is it possible to remove the trailing arm without removing the 3 alignment bolts? I can't budge the 3 bolts.
Thanks in advance.
Jack
Posted by: ndfrigi Mar 29 2016, 01:33 AM
try applying penetrating oil and use impact wrench or cross type tire wrench so you have balance when rotating it.
Posted by: Garland Mar 29 2016, 07:06 AM
There are plastic caps on the other side of the 3 bolts. Remove the caps and spray with penetrating oil.
Posted by: BeatNavy Mar 29 2016, 07:17 AM
It is my understanding, although fortunately not my experience, that you really do NOT want to break or damage those bolts or threads. They can be repaired but it may not be easy (I believe there are one or two threads here on individuals' experiences). So I believe the lesson is be patient and use the normal "steps" as mentioned to help break them loose.
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Mar 29 2016, 07:38 AM
Certainly not a fun job to replace. You might also consider heating them up with a MAPP torch to break loose the rust bond and/or punching the heads of the bolts with some well-placed hammer strikes. I have had success with both of those in the past to free up stuck fasteners.
Posted by: mepstein Mar 29 2016, 08:11 AM
God do we use a lot of mapp/acetalyne gas around the shop to unstick nuts and bolts.
Posted by: r_towle Mar 29 2016, 08:25 AM
Use an impact gun on those bolts, no a breaker bar...
Posted by: jack20 Mar 29 2016, 08:29 AM
God do we use a lot of mapp/acetalyne gas around the shop to unstick nuts and bolts.
Thanks guys. I tried an impact wrench yesterday but I didn't know about the plastic caps. I'll clean off the crud, remove them and shoot some PB blaster in there and some mapp gas heat on the heads. Should do it.
Thanks for the help.
Jack
Posted by: jack20 Mar 29 2016, 08:34 AM
Use an impact gun on those bolts, no a breaker bar...
Ok. I almost pulled out the breaker bar yesterday but I was very concerned about snapping off the heads...
Thanks
Posted by: madmax914 Mar 29 2016, 08:56 AM
I've been a fan of PB Blaster, it smells funny but I think it works better than some of the other penetrating oils. Drench the bolts and the between the bracket and mounting surface. Wait a day and drench it again, you can't use too much. I'm not a big fan of breaker bars because they do just that break bolts, but if you don't have access to an impact gun try using a shorter bar. After three days of soaking it should be ready to cooperate.
Posted by: malcolm2 Mar 29 2016, 09:44 AM
I've been a fan of PB Blaster, it smells funny but I think it works better than some of the other penetrating oils. Drench the bolts and the between the bracket and mounting surface. Wait a day and drench it again, you can't use too much. I'm not a big fan of breaker bars because they do just that break bolts, but if you don't have access to an impact gun try using a shorter bar. After three days of soaking it should be ready to cooperate.
I found this stuff. Made right here in Nashville, TN... I find that it is better than PB, which is good.
http://www.kanolabs.com/msn/ link
Posted by: RoadGlue Mar 29 2016, 03:13 PM
Kano Kroil is the bomb. Thanks for the offer link too!
Posted by: barefoot Mar 29 2016, 03:59 PM
while i had no difficulty removing the bolts, i did not want to loose the alignment, so drilled a 1/4" hole up thru the trailing arm and into the chassis, so can pin it back to exact position upon re-assembly
Posted by: jcd914 Mar 29 2016, 04:59 PM
while i had no difficulty removing the bolts, i did not want to loose the alignment, so drilled a 1/4" hole up thru the trailing arm and into the chassis, so can pin it back to exact position upon re-assembly
Are you replacing the bushings?
The alignment will change with new bushings even if you get the arm back in the same place.
Jim
Posted by: jack20 Mar 30 2016, 12:03 AM
Thanks everybody. I was able to completely strip the rear end. Trailing arms, etc go to powder coating tomorrow.
I realize that re - alignment will be necessary. I did the entire front end last month and plan to take it in for a four wheel alignment once I put the rear back in. I'll be replacing the bushings with a new set from PMB who also did all my calipers. I need to add 2 zerk fittings to each trailing arm. If anyone has done this I'd like to know where you installed them in the arm.
Jack
Posted by: mepstein Mar 30 2016, 05:52 AM
Also talk with Eric about the powdercoat since some bushings will not slip over the powdercoat.
Posted by: jkb944t Mar 30 2016, 06:21 AM
Also talk with Eric about the powdercoat since some bushings will not slip over the powdercoat.
I just had my front and rear control arms powder coated and there was no problem fitting the Elephant Racing poly-bronze bushings that I got from PMB. If there was going to be a problem it would most likely be with the front control arms and not the rear ones.
Jeff B
Posted by: jkb944t Mar 30 2016, 06:26 AM
Thanks everybody. I was able to completely strip the rear end. Trailing arms, etc go to powder coating tomorrow.
I realize that re - alignment will be necessary. I did the entire front end last month and plan to take it in for a four wheel alignment once I put the rear back in. I'll be replacing the bushings with a new set from PMB who also did all my calipers. I need to add 2 zerk fittings to each trailing arm. If anyone has done this I'd like to know where you installed them in the arm.
Jack
The picture below shows the zerk fittings installed in my rear control arms. The instructions that come with the bushings will tell you how and where to install the fittings.
(Edit) The one thing the directions do leave out is that you need to drill the holes with a 7/32 drill and then tap them to 1/4-28.
Jeff B
Posted by: jack20 Mar 30 2016, 08:52 AM
They look great! Did you re-plate the bearing caps? How did it go getting the old bushings out? The new bushings are still in the box so I haven't seen the instructions yet.
Thanks
Posted by: jkb944t Mar 30 2016, 10:07 AM
They look great! Did you re-plate the bearing caps? How did it go getting the old bushings out? The new bushings are still in the box so I haven't seen the instructions yet.
Thanks
Thanks, yes I had the bearing caps yellow zinc plated. I took the old bushings out so long ago that I don't remember exactly how hard it was. I believe I used a small press to push the shaft out and then it wasn't too hard to remove the rubber bushings.
Jeff B
Posted by: 6freak Mar 30 2016, 10:08 AM
How did it go getting the old bushings out?
[/quote]
this is were all the fun begains 
and its very easy to put the zerks in the wrong way....do a lay out before you drill and double check your work good luck
MikeC
Posted by: ClayPerrine Mar 30 2016, 04:23 PM
I used the Elephant racing rubber bushing kits on both the front and rear of our 914s. They are nice. The ride isn't as harsh as the delrin, and you don't need zerk fittings either.
http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/rubberbushings/914rubberbushings.htm
Posted by: r_towle Mar 30 2016, 07:43 PM
Thanks everybody. I was able to completely strip the rear end. Trailing arms, etc go to powder coating tomorrow.
I realize that re - alignment will be necessary. I did the entire front end last month and plan to take it in for a four wheel alignment once I put the rear back in. I'll be replacing the bushings with a new set from PMB who also did all my calipers. I need to add 2 zerk fittings to each trailing arm. If anyone has done this I'd like to know where you installed them in the arm.
Jack
The picture below shows the zerk fittings installed in my rear control arms. The instructions that come with the bushings will tell you how and where to install the fittings.
(Edit) The one thing the directions do leave out is that you need to drill the holes with a 7/32 drill and then tap them to 1/4-28.
Jeff B
Nice job, will you do mine?
Posted by: 76-914 Mar 31 2016, 08:06 AM
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