I hacked into my parts car to gain an even clearer view of the world inside the long. I'm here to share my pictures.
Here's how I hacked in. I wouldn't recommend this tactic on a real project, but I just wanted to get inside without losing the shape and perspective of things. I just took a hack saw and cut into the top of the long and then drilled out all the spot welds along the top.
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Opened up. You would never be able to get the metal straight again on a real project once you bent it like this.
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Here's the paper, plastic, fiberglass, and aluminum tubes connecting the rear heater tubes to the front heater tubes. These are supposed to muffle the sound so when the heater is on it doesn't get noisier in the car. Effectiveness is questionable, IMHO.
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Here's the long without the tube. Notice how little rust there is. What little rust there is in the bottom was caused by the hell hole letting water in. This is proof that a well maintained car will not rust. In other words, breaking into your longs to paint/POR-15/zinc coat the surface is not necessary.
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Here's a detail shot of the rear of the opening. Showing the rear heater tube, seat belt reinforcement, and 1 of three C straps that hold the tube in place. The C strap in this picture was bent taking the tube out.
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Here's the front of the opening showing the front heater tube, and the tube stabilizer bracket (there's one in the last picture too). Also shows another C strap, bent as well.
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View towards the rear of the long. Here you can see the bottom of the C strap which is not deformed. The top should be a mirror image.
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Here's the view towards the front of the long.
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Here's a view to the rear, past the heater tube. This is the area directly below the hell hole. You can see the rust damage caused by neglect.
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Another detail show of the seat belt reinforcements. Notice how close the plate comes to the C strap. Remember this for later.
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Here's one possible way to remove the tube in preparation for acid dipping. Cut along the Sharpie line. Near the seat belt hole you have to cut close to the C strap mounting pad. Remember the plate from the last picture? If you cut along this line and drill out the spot welds you'll remove the tube and clamps as one unit. Make sure to cut carefully and not very deep because there is lots of stuff just behind the metal.
Do not cut on your long without reinforcing the body to avoid bending your car in half.
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Finally, a shot down the paper tube, showing the aluminum lining. There is fiberglass in between the paper outside and the aluminum lining.
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Thanks, excellent, Mark. Thanks much.
Classic thread!
What a great perspective on how things look in there.
Fantastic stuff...thanks to you, and your poor parts car for sacrificing it's long. (Which looks better than anything in the midwest BTW)
Yeah, I had some remorse. But the rest of the car is so trashed it's only good for a race car body. So oh well. It's headed for the scrap heap.
Why parts? From those pics, that car looks in better condition than mine
Thanks Mark, that was a fun read, and looksee..
M
QUOTE (Hammy @ Mar 29 2005, 10:41 PM) |
Why parts? From those pics, that car looks in better condition than mine |
What a wonderful Autopsy ! Would love to have a teener like that on which to perform exploritoy surgery ( practice my sawall and welding work ).
Tanks
Uninsulated!!!! Yuck. I'm gunna drill some holes and fill it with foam. Need all the heat I can get. Cool pics.
QUOTE (Teknon @ Mar 30 2005, 09:23 AM) |
Uninsulated!!!! Yuck. I'm gunna drill some holes and fill it with foam. Need all the heat I can get. Cool pics. |
QUOTE (McMark @ Mar 29 2005, 09:51 PM) |
Here's one possible way to remove the tube in preparation for acid dipping. Cut along the Sharpie line. Near the seat belt hole you have to cut close to the C strap mounting pad. Remember the plate from the last picture? If you cut along this line and drill out the spot welds you'll remove the tube and clamps as one unit. Do not cut on your long without reinforcing the body to avoid bending your car in half. |
No leave it out while dipping and weld a bar from the dash to the back pad wall at each door. Keeps the car together when they're pulling it out of the acid bath.
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nice work will make me think about other methods, by looking at the photos looks prety clean inside, my 6 is not that rusty the hell holes are in realy good shape, mayby gonna ust the por 15 whith a wand and go down inspection holes to treat any exsisting corroision thanks for all the pics, steve
nice pics. turned out alot better than mine did.
i think my hose ends are steel not plastic, 1975 chassis.
McMark,
You need to get out of CA to see what rust is!
Let's not go there again.
for obscurity
I agree, why the hell you bothered to cut a long that good!!! WTF...
When I need to take out the tube, I can just reach up from underneath and pull, by the time I care...there is nothing left of the long.
Rich
Nothing I hate more than the "You cut up THAT car?!" comments. Everything looks great over the internet.
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