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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Wire your 220V welder

Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:24 PM

I had to move the outlet for my welder today. Since it's been a topic of recent discussion, I decided to document the event.

I went to Home Depot and purchased the correct length of 8-3 stranded cable and then ran it through the attic after drilling holes to drop it down to the main panel and the wall where the outlet would go:


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:24 PM

#2


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:26 PM

I wired the plug like this:

To quell the 4-wire argument, I grounded the backing plate on the plug with the fourth (bare copper) wire.


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:28 PM

Turn off main power to the panel, but keep in mind the cables which supply the main breaker are still hot. Stay away from those.

Run the White (neutral) and bare copper (ground) to the common block on either side of the panel. Just find a place where they fit:


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:30 PM

Wire the black (hot) and red (hot) to a 220V breaker of the correct amp rating:


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:31 PM

Close up the outlet and mount it on the wall:


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:32 PM

Install the breaker in the box and restore power. Check the welder for proper function:


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:33 PM

Close up the box and secure the cables to the walls:

(Travis Neff: notice the creative use of training wheels)


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Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:35 PM

Now the welder is in a much more convenient location:

Before anyone gives me trouble for not using conduit into the attic, I look at this installation as an extension cord running through the attic. If I move, I'll take it with me.


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Posted by: MarkV Mar 31 2005, 01:43 PM

If you go to sell your house that will never pass inspection. In fact if you ever have a house fire and they determine that your welder wire was the cause, they would deny a claim. Any wire under 8 feet from the floor has to be in conduit & you can't run wire under the inspection cover of the electrical panel.

Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 01:53 PM

QUOTE (MarkV @ Mar 31 2005, 12:43 PM)
If you go to sell your house that will never pass inspection. In fact if you ever have a house fire and they determine that your welder wire was the cause, they would deny a claim. Any wire under 8 feet from the floor has to be in conduit & you can't run wire under the inspection cover of the electrical panel.

Did I not mention that I would take my extension cord with me if I move?

The purpose of this thread was not 'how to run conduit'. That's up to you.

Posted by: fiid Mar 31 2005, 01:58 PM

QUOTE (MarkV @ Mar 31 2005, 11:43 AM)
If you go to sell your house that will never pass inspection. In fact if you ever have a house fire and they determine that your welder wire was the cause, they would deny a claim. Any wire under 8 feet from the floor has to be in conduit & you can't run wire under the inspection cover of the electrical panel.

Got to love the elecrical code.

bs.gif

Keeps a lot of people in work though - and keeps people from doing work on their own places, and keeps the local authorities flush with permit money.

Where are the republicans when you need them?

Posted by: bondo Mar 31 2005, 03:20 PM

Thanks for the pics! I made the extension cable already, haven't used it yet (probably will today). Funny thing happened while I was at OSH buying the connectors... The guy that helped me find the dryer plug area lectured me on how it was illegal to make a 220v extension cord. He said that was why they didn't have any female plug ends. He also said I couldn't make an adapter that put a 50 amp socket (welder) on a 30 amp plug (dryer). Then he wandered off and I bought them anyways. smile.gif I had to get a surface mount socket instead of a female cable end, but it will work. My biggest load is only 20 amps, so I'm not worried.

Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 03:51 PM

I didn't like the cable coming out from under the panel either, so I went to the store and got a fitting.

Look again, I changed the picture where the cable exits the box. I don't care about code, I care about safety.

As for conduit, if I put a 220V outlet outside the main box with the wires in the wall, and then plugged in my 'extension cord' and ran it through the ceiling just like I did, it would be code.

Like I said on my 'insurance' thread, I'm looking for a little common sense here. This is perfectly safe.

Posted by: MarkV Mar 31 2005, 04:48 PM

Dude, You are like the poster child for why there are building codes. Now you have live wires going through the inspection / safety cover. biggrin.gif

Show this picture to your insurance comapny:

Posted by: MarkV Mar 31 2005, 04:50 PM

asdf


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Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 31 2005, 04:54 PM

QUOTE (MarkV @ Mar 31 2005, 03:48 PM)
Dude, You are like the poster child for why there are building codes. Now you have live wires going through the inspection / safety cover. biggrin.gif

Show this picture to your insurance comapny:

lol2.gif
ouch! laugh.gif

Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 05:03 PM

QUOTE (MarkV @ Mar 31 2005, 03:48 PM)
Dude, You are like the poster child for why there are building codes. Now you have live wires going through the inspection / safety cover. biggrin.gif

Show this picture to your insurance comapny:

Are you just looking for something to bitch about?

If you can explain how there is a single difference, as far as safety is concerned, between this and punching a pop-out of the top of the box and running the cable up the wall cavity where someone can put a screw through the drywall and into the cable, I'll go rewire the whole fucking thing.

I said before, clearly, that I will be removing this cable when I move. I am completely unconcerned with an inspection.

This is absolutely, 100% as safe as running the cable through the top of the main box and up the wall cavity.

I swear to god, some of you guys could bitch about a day off work.

Posted by: scott thacher Mar 31 2005, 05:07 PM

joe, when i get there i will run that right for ya, its what i do for a living. second get ride of that junk ge panel, square d all the way.

and bondo you can make a 30 amp 220 volt cord and the best way to do it is to use twist lock plugs, the ones you would want are the L14-30. its a 4 wire 220 volt plug, you can get cord end and recpts. for it.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Mar 31 2005, 05:16 PM

Insurance companies rule the world. (Right Howard)? It doesn't matter if you or I or anyone thinks your installation is safe, if it's not to code your insurance will not cover you. And don't try to inject common sense into the equation either. You know, kinda like dealing with the FAA!!!
cheers, Elliot

Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 05:37 PM

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Mar 31 2005, 04:07 PM)
joe, when i get there i will run that right for ya...

That's not what we'll be doing while you're here. beerchug.gif

I can run a cable up the wall cavity and put a strain relief on the box myself, which is exactly what I've already done, just on the outside.

I'm not going to argue about this any more. The way I've wired this is completely safe and you guys know it.

Why think for yourself when you could call your insurance company and ask them how to think.

Posted by: Series9 Mar 31 2005, 06:06 PM

Just to clarify my position:


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Posted by: carambola Mar 31 2005, 06:19 PM

first off, is that a 3/8 " 90 deg mc conn? and how are you supposed to take the panel cover off? and get rid of the GE especially with those wafer/mini breakers.

Posted by: Travis Neff Mar 31 2005, 11:20 PM

I am glad you got good use from the training wheels. heh.

When Joe came down to PHX we met for dinner, along the way I figured I'd get him a present. I got him a set of training wheels for 914RS lol2.gif

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