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Posted by: Chris914n6 May 1 2016, 07:35 PM

In a perfect world I'd gut the car, fix all the rusty places, epoxy primer and quality paint the whole thing.

In reality, it's been a long time and I want to drive.

I've had good results with Rustoleum Pro for painting truck frames, brackets and such on daily drivers. Any possible drawbacks with spot repairs, with the intention of sanding/blasting and painting the whole chassis in the distant future? Main concerns being new rust and incompatibility with real auto paint.

Posted by: malcolm2 May 1 2016, 07:43 PM

Driving is great.... Once you start driving, you will not want to break it down and do all those things you know need to be done.... But your in Vegas, how much rust could happen in Vegas?

Your call. I like driving too.

Posted by: r_towle May 1 2016, 08:00 PM

It will never be compatible with two part automotive paint, it will peal off as you spray on the paint later on.

That being said, paint it and drive it..
When you are ready, strip off what needs to be done and prep the rest of the paint, the do the whole car or panel.

Rich

Posted by: rick 918-S May 1 2016, 08:44 PM

Spot it in for now, Drive it like you stole it and just keep in mind you will need to strip the spot repairs before trying to re-top coat. Exact reason I will not paint over the top of any re-paint I didn't do. Like a cracker jack box. Only the surprise will not make you smile.

Posted by: Chris914n6 May 1 2016, 09:37 PM

Came from Socal. Original paint, has plenty of scratches just about everywhere. Rear trunk is a holey mess. Inside under the rear window and pedals. Battery tray. Also the primer spots where I made the V6 fit and the chipped paint from fender rolling.

I skipped Rainy66 because there is just too much bare metal. Looks like the new plan is clean, ospho, rattle-can,

Thanks all!