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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ engine removal, do I need to disconnect alternator?
Posted by: ggenovez May 29 2016, 07:27 PM
Hi all,
I'm removing the engine from my 914 and found some instructions about engine removal. On article says to "disconnect alternator harness".
No pictures or other information.
What does that mean? engine tins need to be removed?
Any pics?
Thanks!
Posted by: jimkelly May 29 2016, 07:31 PM
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_engine_drop/914_engine_drop.htm
Posted by: dlee6204 May 29 2016, 07:36 PM
The alternator harness needs to be unplugged from the relay board in the engine compartment.
Posted by: Steve May 29 2016, 09:27 PM
As well as the battery to the starter. Pretty straightforward. Disconnect anything around the motor beyond the tin, so you can lower the motor and tranny together. Same thing below the motor and trans. After disconnecting and unbolting everything including the cv joints from the trans you should be down to 4 bolts. The two on the motor mounts and two on the trans. Get a transmission/motor cycle floor jack and lower it down and out the back of the car. Done it so many times, I could do it in my sleep. There is a lot of gotchas... Trans ground strap, rubber lip around and under tin, clearing tin around trailing arm nuts while lowering. Reverse light wiring, clutch and throttle cable, etc. just look closely for anything in the way before lowering.
Posted by: 74ravenna May 30 2016, 04:40 AM
As well as the battery to the starter. Pretty straightforward. Disconnect anything around the motor beyond the tin, so you can lower the motor and tranny together. Same thing below the motor and trans. After disconnecting and unbolting everything including the cv joints from the trans you should be down to 4 bolts. The two on the motor mounts and two on the trans. Get a transmission/motor cycle floor jack and lower it down and out the back of the car. Done it so many times, I could do it in my sleep. There is a lot of gotchas... Trans ground strap, rubber lip around and under tin, clearing tin around trailing arm nuts while lowering. Reverse light wiring, clutch and throttle cable, etc. just look closely for anything in the way before lowering.
"Get a transmission/motor cycle floor jack and lower it down and out the back of the car."
Do you find this a better way than lowering the car (wheels off) then disconnecting the engine then raising the car?
I'm about to remove the engine and I'm following Pelican's procedure. I'm not sure which is the best way.
Thanks
Steve
Posted by: Steve May 30 2016, 08:47 AM
I have done it both ways several times. If you can get the back end high enough, it's easier to drop it and pull it out. The pelican way works, but it s harder to get under the car. Your resting the engine and trans on a furniture cart, roughly 4" off the ground and have to get to the 4 bolts underneath. Pain in the ass... And then raise the car and slide it out. Versus having the car way up in the air with a floor jack. Do a search on floor jack and you can see some nice photos and jack recommendations.
Posted by: The Cabinetmaker May 30 2016, 09:02 AM
What Steve said
Posted by: rhodyguy May 30 2016, 09:20 AM
Slide 2 pieces of tin, license plates work swell, in between the the engine tins and shelves from above just covering the inner rear control arm nuts. The tins will help guide the engine past the nuts so the engine tin does'nt get hung up on them.
Posted by: 74ravenna May 30 2016, 09:27 AM
Thanks guys. Good info.
Steve
Posted by: Amphicar770 May 30 2016, 09:54 AM
The lift plate from Tangerine racing is probably the best investment you can make, makes raising and lowering the assembly a breeze.
I attached the plate to my tranny Jack. That made it even better as the tranny Jack allows for easy fine tuning of angle.
Posted by: forrestkhaag May 30 2016, 10:14 AM
I built a dolly that keys to the engine bar and tranny fins on the underside of the assembly. I jack up the car to a height that allows me to jack the dolly to the underside of the engine and then unbolt it per the pelican tech checklist / tin on. Down & out it goes without getting my head or anything substantila under the car in any way shape or form.
The dolly costs four wheels and a few bolts.
A furniture dolly is ok but much weaker..
roadyguy advice is very sage and saves a hangup and bent tin on the down and out....
Attached image(s)
Posted by: 74ravenna May 30 2016, 01:05 PM
I was so far into the Pelican method i went ahead with it and things have gone good so far.
The transmission bolts weren't too hard to take off but the engine mount bolts aren't budging.
I've got them soaking in penetrant for now. I had actually soaked them a couple times prior to today but they are fused on there!
Didn't mean to hijack the thread, sorry.
Once again thanks for all the great advice.
Steve
Posted by: wndsnd May 30 2016, 07:05 PM
Steve,
Don't forget to put a wrench on nut at top of bolt or it will just spin. But good luck, mine were fused and first time out I had to cut them. If that happens, make sure you use high strength replacements. I think the metrics are 10.9
Sounds like you found a jack.
Posted by: 74ravenna May 31 2016, 03:37 AM
Steve,
Don't forget to put a wrench on nut at top of bolt or it will just spin. But good luck, mine were fused and first time out I had to cut them. If that happens, make sure you use high strength replacements. I think the metrics are 10.9
Sounds like you found a jack.
Hi John,
I used my floor jack and one of my small bottle jacks. It worked great.
I am hoping to not have to cut them off but as I was trying to loosen them I could tell that i might not have a choice.
Did you try a torch before cutting them off?
What did you cut them with? A sawmill maybe?
10.9, excellent.
Thanks
Steve
Posted by: wndsnd May 31 2016, 06:46 AM
PM Sent
Posted by: ggenovez May 31 2016, 06:42 PM
PM Sent
Gentlemen, all I can say is WOW! I love all the information!
SO here is the other part, it was converted to carbs. so no ECM. I'm guessing I don't need anything on the alternator side to remove it.
I am having another issues. The shift linkage is ceased and the 4mm hex is rounded. I tried penetrating oil, heat, cutting a notch, welding a nut (kept falling) any ideas to remove it?
Thanks again.
G
Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 1 2016, 06:46 AM
Remove the carbs and linkage in one piece from the manifolds. This will buy you more wiggle room side to side and you don't have to raise the car as high to slide the engine out. You also preserve your current linkage settings. Don't forget to cover the intakes with something. Prevents errant nuts and washers disappearing down the manifolds.
Posted by: Amphicar770 Jun 1 2016, 09:29 AM
PM Sent
Gentlemen, all I can say is WOW! I love all the information!
SO here is the other part, it was converted to carbs. so no ECM. I'm guessing I don't need anything on the alternator side to remove it.
I am having another issues. The shift linkage is ceased and the 4mm hex is rounded. I tried penetrating oil, heat, cutting a notch, welding a nut (kept falling) any ideas to remove it?
Thanks again.
G
Take a similar sized torx bit and tap it into the allen bolt head with a hammer. Hammer hard. Once it is well and truly wedged in, a careful turn of the wrench should loosen the bolt.
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