Finally starting my 914-6 GT project after waiting a couple decades. The infection hit me after driving a 911 my employer owned, so I found a '69 912 that I drive for five years until I sold it. Since then, I have been waiting to build a 914-6 GT. John Forbes helped find the starting point for me in October 2015: a white '76 with flares.
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looks like a nice starting point
So, after many months, work finally begins in the GT. Heinz Peters is helping out with the body work and prep for paint. Found that the flares were lapped and welded, so the work begins there cutting and butt welding. One side was stripped to reveal the two fenders; only found a couple small spots of rust at the jack point.
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Hopefully this is all of the rust there is- one can hope. Next week I'll be removing the dash, and starting to strip the flloor, so more to come.
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Welcome & looks like your starting it right! What are you doing drivetrain wise
Excellent. This should be nice build thread. Nice looking car to being with. The fact that you are correcting the flare installation speaks to the level of detail you are willing to go through to make the car right.
One fender is nearly complete. Still need to fill in a few pin holes in the seam, and needs a little shaping.
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Disassembly continued today; removed the windshield, tank, some of the ventilation system and more trim work. While I did the easy work, Heinz started working the front flare correcting the weld and shaping the fender better.
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Awesome...action shot!
Man, the front of that driver's side front fender looks a little rough. I know he hasn't started on that yet. Nice progress.
I'm hoping to get some wisdom from those in the know. I am debating my options for the front suspension. Should I just change the struts to early 911 parts, or should I change everything out to SC or Carrera parts?
Any and all thoughts are welcome. Thanks
This post was moved to another thread.
Third fender is now complete. I'm not sure where these flares came from, but they needed a tremendous amount of reshaping.
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Time for an update. All four corners are complete, but the drivers side signal lite area needed to be replace (the original has been crushed sometime in the past). I stripped the floors inside - they're near perfect with no rust issues, so I'm happy with the progress there. Heinz has improved the front hood gaps significantly; can't wait to see it in person this weekend, but I have some pics to get me excited.
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That looks beautiful. Your man definitely knows what he is doing. The gap between the hood and fenders looks outstanding.
I dig those flares! Keeping it white?
Put the SC struts in the front. The lower balljoint mount on the early 911's was upgraded to the later version in 1973? (just learned this myself as I need to change my struts)
The 914 is beginning to look like a GT now. White epoxy was applied last evening. It is looking fine, and is getting a lot closer to going to a paint shop for the green.
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I have a question for those much more knowledgeable than I.
While stripping the bottom of the 914, I noticed the lip around the inside of the GT flares. They are about 5/8" wide; this looks too wide.
Does anyone know the correct width?
I'm thinking about 3/8" would look OK.
I don't know the "correct" width, but I rolled mine in with a hammer. Smoother and about 1/4-1/2" more tire clearance
My lovely wife is an x-NYWS stockbroker,m&a manager for a fortune 5 firm / and today sees the uptick in a 914 conversion project if properly undertaken. go. Now is the time.
I have converted 3.2 K 914 in AZ into a 60-+ asset in CA and not for sale.. It is a thing to do now.. but not for the faint of heart...
I still think about staying white. Guess I'll make the final decision a day before it gets painted.
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Signal orange is the awesome-est!
My $0.02
Pretty sure I'm going green. Wish I knew exactly what color these two cars are.
You've got emerald, viper, Conda and Zambezi green.
Those appear to be Conda Green. L2626 is the code I think.
Bottom one looks like viper green.
Viper Green is siiiiiiiiiick.
The #19 car color wins.
The replica flares have more "flange" than the original factory GT flares. McMark clearances mine a bit to fit the rear tires. In the front, it's not a problem. I'll edit in a picture from my project thread in a minute or two...
Ok, here are before and after pictures of my rear flares. Before would tear up sidewalls. After? Just right!
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Not really. I found it on Rennlist. Here's one that includes a description. I also included another pic with 2 colors side by side.
Looking at photos of Conda, Signal, Viper, Green, and Zambezi it's difficult to tell them apart unless they are side by side.
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Have you considered Irish Green?
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Here's a comparison between green (on the car) and signal green (sample). Too close to call IMHO.
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It also depends what primer goes under the paint and even what brand of paint.
Time to build the rotisserie. I have a great starting point; it's a rotisserie built to assist with assembling aircraft landing gear doors - big aircraft.
So far I have cut the sides off of the rotating section. I plan to cut the sides off of the bottom also, and add a third leg and wheel to each end. Off to find a couple casters, and start welding.
Irish is tough to argue with, but if you're after more color—and maybe something different than the Viper/Kelly/Signal (all of which look great) but still "period"—you might want to look into Gelb Grun or even Acid Green.
Gelb Grün on a GT3 RS:
http://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-marketplace/947065-2016-porsche-gt3-rs-paint-to-sample-gelbgrun-cxx-options.html
http://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-gt3rs-and-911r/936564-gelbgrun-gt3-rs-delivered-4.html
Acid Green on a GT4 and 918
https://www.autoevolution.com/news/acid-green-porsche-cayman-gt4-gets-full-detailing-the-images-are-amazing-photo-gallery-103429.html#agal_6
https://hiveminer.com/Tags/acid,porsche
And, finally, good old Birch Green (I think...):
http://www.stanceworks.com/2014/04/admiring-an-icon-the-1974-porsche-3-0-rs/
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Signal
So, I've made some progress on the rotisserie. I've added a third leg and caster on each end, and removed the steel connecting the ends to each other. During March I need to make the mounting sections to connect to the 914 bumper locations, and get the car on the rotisserie.
I'd like to have the car as balanced as possible. Does anyone know the center of gravity vertically at the bumper mount locations?
L98B is nice
That's a burly roto! NIce stuff.
I've made some progress in the rotisserie. I expect to have it complete this week; I just need to add the mounting points to the arms and finish the paint.
The next project on the list is to cut the front oil cooler outlet hole once I decide which methods of venting to use. I like the PMS kit, but I don't think the outlet vent has enough open area. I also like some of the project pics I have seen that have the outlets in the wheels wells.
After the venting holes are complete, I'll put the car on the rotisserie and start stripping the bottom. I'm thinking of using the Upol Raptor on the bottom.
The Moritz race car is Conda Green. I've seen a Conda Green car in person and that color is soooo fantastic!
Keep up the good work neighbor
Nice job on the rotisserie...I would be interested in "renting" it in the future if that is an possibility. My friend sold the car to Forbes (so he could in turn provide it to you). I believe we spoke awhile back as you were "determining a course" for this car - looks like it is gaining momentum. Good job!
Tony
Just gathered a few pieces over the past several weeks, and traveled to Hershey for the swap meet. I was somewhat disappointed with Hershey; seeing the cars was great, but the swap meet didn't match the hype. Maybe I expected too much. Anyway, the day after the meet, I purchased a Carrera front suspension in North Carolina.
The other parts collected include the center of the firewall, which I will use to make a cover for an access hole. I'm also awaiting shipment of a hook and grommet from one of the recent group buys.
Looking good...make big piles of parts!
T
Worked on the metamorphosing 914 most of the day today. Removing the rear suspension was easier than expected; three bolts and three nuts per side. I also removed the hood and rear trunk lid, so now to get it in the air for attaching it to the rotisserie.
I've decided to add an access panel on the firewall. The cover will be made from a section I purchased from 914 Ecology a few days ago. I've completed the rough trim on the cover; real happy with how it turned out.
Can't decide whether or not to remove all of the old seem sealer in the trunk. I looks terrible, but its original. It may be interesting to keep the 41 year old fingerprint also.
That just the way the factory did the seam sealer back in the day. I wouldn't touch it if it's good shape. It will grow on you I think. When I re-seam seal parts of my car, I'll try to replicate this unique factory application.
Oh...and the car looks great. Have a wonderful time with the re-do.
I've finally been able to work on the GT again recently. I purchase an oil cooler from PMS and the shroud from QRS before starting the work to be sure I cut and weld in the correct locations. Here are a few pics of the progress.
Saturday's project is to finish fitting the braces shown in the pic below, and weld them in. I really liked what Armando did to his car as shown in his "Last New 914-6 GT Project" thread, so I'm using his ideas.
I'll also weld in sheet metal for the floor defining the outlet vent for the cooler.
I'm doing all of these installs, actually I'm a bit ahead of you and done with them. I know what it takes to do this...
What you're doing looks great!!!!
Good work, I was going to make my front trunk floor cut a different size to that but after seeing yours I think that's the way to go. Thanks.
I have a question for those more wise than I - everyone.
When I removed the floor section, the tow hook went with it. I think if I replace it closer to the front of the car it will be blocked by the front valance under the bumper, and the valance would be destroyed if I ever used the tow hook. What do you think?
An alternative would be to leave the tow hook off, and use bolt on hooks that mount to the front suspension mounts. Do these tow hooks work well? Tarett has one that looks good.
Any input is appreciated. Thanks
I'm a bit late to the party but for a period correct GT replica, Conda Green (26G) is the only green way to go.
The Max&Moritz GTs were Conda Green and there is at least one car we know of (not a GT) that was delivered in Conda Green from the factory using the correct 26G paint tag instead of a 98 (Custom Color) tag. Even though Conda Green was never an official 914 color.
I completed the front trunk floor welding last weekend and did some touch-up and grinding to smooth it out over the next few days. Still need to smooth the corners; waiting on Amazon to deliver a smaller roloc set.
I also filled in the four small holes in the floor. Why are they there anyway?
Here the almost finished shot. Needs minor smoothing. Not too bad I guess for the first time welding sheet metal.
The spare tire I purchased should arrive Tuesday, so need to figure out how to mount it vertically in the trunk wall this week.
I've been contemplating how to mount the spare tire for a while. I finally settled on a plan and completed the tire mount this weekend. I welded up the bracket shown below, and added a couple studs to the car to attach it to. Should work OK.
BTW, great build. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing it completed.
Didn't get to work on the project much this weekend. It's probably good though, because my welding was rather poor. It took a while, but I welded in the reinforcements today. I'll prime the area and weld the sections that I cut out earlier in the coming few days.
I've completed the reinforcements and welded the cut outs back; here's a few pics
Completed this section of the project, so tomorrow I'll start fitting the oil cooler shroud, and figuring out a way to mount the oil cooler.
Great work. In the same process with my conversion.
Did similar in the front for the oil cooler ducting.
Cleaniing the garage this morning, and need to make space. I'm thinking about trashing the old four lug wheels. I have all four.
Anyone need them? I'm in SW Virginia in Marion.
Getting close to finishing the oil cooler mod. Made a template this evening, so tomorrow it turns into steel with a few minor changes.
The bottom section of the oil cooler shroud is nearly complete now; it just needs minor touch ups for fit. I'll be working on the oil cooler mount next, or maybe I'll load the car onto the rotisserie and get the bottom stripped and coated before it gets cold.
WOW!! These pipes are beautiful.
I first noticed the welding quality; Ben is truly a master.
Lots of practice
Your spare tire mount is awesome! Totally stealing that idea!
Michael that car is coming along nicely. I Do like that spare wheel mount as well.
Cool touch out of necessity I see.
Please make me one of those spare tire mounts.....Please?
This coming week should be a great week for progress. Four months ago, John Forbes and I scheduled this week to reassemble my 3.2 at Black Forest Racing, and get it running again.
The 3.2 is fully disassembled and mostly clean now. A little more cleaning to do more n the morning, then reassembly begins.
Tub, here I thought you guys were all just un-restrained hooligans gooning it up!
And MIT, I am sure you saw the white cat on BAT that got so much attention and brought nice bucks! Love Light Ivory, something about the simplicity of white black and chrome accentuates the simplicity of these cars in my eyes.
A good Saturday morning. The rear rotisserie mounts are welded up, and attached. Sunday afternoon the car should be turning over.
Careful, the stripped shell is top heavy when mounted on bumper mounts. I like how you passed the supports through the main bar, and cleaned up the ends by capping them.
Completed the rotisserie today, and mounted the 914. For now, I'm going to let it float over the supports I used for a few days - just in case my amateur welds have an issue.
Bottom strip to begin soon.
Turned the car on the rotisserie for the first time today. Works perfectly! One hand turning, and seems to be balanced well. Now to blast the bottom, and remove all of the old seem sealer.
Stripping the bottom and removing all of the seam sealer; a few more evenings and it's done. I'm also removing the 4 banger motor mounts, and am thinking about welding another reinforcement plate over the area.
I must be developing OCD. While stripping the bottom, I kept thinking of the potential rust hiding under the seat reinforcements and jack pads. Finally, I placed an order for replacement parts, and then cut the old parts off the car today.
Rust can't hide any longer. No holes, but heavy surface rust.
Looking great
In for a penny, in for a pound.
I didn't make any progress on the GT this week due to work travel, but I did get to spend an afternoon at the Porsche headquarters in Atlanta. Here's a few pic from the museum. Next time I'll plan ahead, so I can take a few laps on the track.
It’s been a few months, and most progress isn’t very noticeable. After many hours of heating-scraping-heating-scraping, all of the seam sealer is gone.
Now I get to work on the fun stuff; welding pieces back on. The front jack points and seat/ floor reinforcements were replaced a couple days ago, and I just removed the pedal support bracket. This bracket seems to double as a water scoop, directing water into the hole under the pedals; great design to ensure the area rusts adequately. Maybe I should weld this hole closed instead of relying on the seem sealer method.
Rust under pedal cluster to clean out. No rust through though.
That pedal reinforcement is certainly a curious design and I wrestled with what to do about it too. Another issue is that water from wet feet is sure to accumulate around the pedal cluster and migrate through that drain slot or bolt holes into the reinforcement piece. I think the piece is engineered to let that water drain out but it sure is a dumb design. In the end, I just sprayed the inside area with 2 coats of 2K epoxy and put it back together, figuring I'll be dead by the time it becomes a problem again.
Just a question this time. Can someone tell me what this bracket with stud is for? It is on the drivers side front corner, and there isn’t a matching part on the other corner.
My list of items to complete before paint had another one added today. I knew I needed to fix an ugly repair on the firewall, but learned from looking through other posts here that the real problem is the clutch tube.
Found a few threads detailing the repair, so that’s next.
horn mount 75-76
A little progress today. Fixed the crack/break on the firewall where the clutch tube exits.
Now to fix the tube that is completely loose. From the other posts on this subject, I have an idea how to fix the front clamp. However, there is some sort of bracket at the middle of the tube. It looks like it may be broken, but I can’t see how or if it should be attached anywhere in the tunnel.
I found a pic of the inside of the 914 tunnel. Looks like I have a broken bracket: not sure I’ll secure the tube there.
With a 3" holesaw open a hole on the top of the tunnel for adequate access.
Weld the plug back in when the repair is complete
Clutch tube repaired - hopefully forever. Made a new front bracket,and had to cut a hole to access the middle bracket to weld it back together.
Had a little difficulty locating the front bracket tight to the wall, so finally decided to pull it into place with a screw so I could weld the first hole.
looking good.
Decided to change up today and work on removing the adhesive from the interior. Sanding and scraping doesn’t work well, so I tried adhesive remover. Well, it removed the adhesive...and the paint, and remaining seam sealer.
I think I’ll do the rest of the inside with this stuff.
Yep, here it is. I purchased it about six years ago to remove carpet glue from concrete. Glad it works well on the 914 also.
Catching up on posting my progress. I’ve welded in the GT chassis kit, and made additional panels to go over the area where I removed the 4 jug engine mounts. Also had to replace the brake line mount due to the added panel, and welded on new rear jack plates after cleaning out the rust.
I think the second side looks better. This one shows the zinc I put between everything I’m welding onto the car.
And the rust paranoia continues. Here is the plate in the rear trunk before and after removal. I have a replacement from RD that needs to go on after cleaning the rust off.
Yeah, the rust worm never sleeps.
Thanks for sharing the detail pics of the reinforcements. I was starting to make the same yesterday, and it is great to see another perspective.
Looks great.. The rust worm is interesting to say the least. I plan to spray. Corrosion x in all the cavitys as that will creep into every potential spot on the car..
Its an avaition protectant.
Cool.
John at work: a little more progress. The plan is to have it running this week.
John’s a great guy. Loved talking to him at okteenerfest last year.
Its threads like this that make me love 914 owners and 914 world...
Cant wait to see this thing completed! Excellent work!!
Little further along today, but still waiting on the cams and springs to arrive.
More cool stuff came in the mail today; I can’t wait to start reassembly!
Luckily my wife doesn’t even comment when packages arrive at the house now - she knows it’s more 914 stuff.
I need help; my wife says this often, but this time I agree.
I’ve found five painters for my GT. Three retired before “getting to it”, one just didn’t get to it, and the fifth I fear is about to retire. The fifth painter I found is very highly qualified, and would do a great job, but after 16 months of waiting my turn and hearing his retirement plans, I think my turn will never arrive.
Does anyone have recommendations? I live in southwest Virginia and am willing to travel within reason.
- What I’m looking for:
- Highly skilled in body/paint
- high attention to detail
- someone that can replace seam sealer: the car is fully stripped on the bottom, and all seam sealer was removed everywhere inside and out. Car is fully disassembled- just a shell on a rotisserie.
- someone that can verify the chassis is straight/square, and tweak if required
- someone trustworthy
Any recommendations? Please!
Sorry can’t help with a recommendation for a shop near you, but getting back to your decision on what color green to choose, have you considered Willow Green? It’s a super rare 914-6 color. George at AA has one in this color and it’s a stunning car with freaky low miles.
Here’s a pic of another 6 at Luft 6 that was painted this color.
Then again, I always loved my 914-6 that was Metallic Green! God how I still miss that car!
[quote name='Mitox' date='Sep 23 2018, 11:01 PM' post='2651575']
And the rust paranoia continues. Here is the plate in the rear trunk before and after removal. I have a replacement from RD that needs to go on after cleaning the rust off.
May I humbly suggest a different take on a GT trunk reinforcement ?
Your work is beautiful.......and thorough !
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[quote name='rgalla9146' date='Oct 22 2019, 08:55 AM' post='2756358']
[quote name='Mitox' date='Sep 23 2018, 11:01 PM' post='2651575']
And the rust paranoia continues. Here is the plate in the rear trunk before and after removal. I have a replacement from RD that needs to go on after cleaning the rust off.
May I humbly suggest a different take on a GT trunk reinforcement ?
Your work is beautiful.......and thorough !
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Your take looks good; I like the clean look. It’s likely stiffer also
Why don't you put a borescope in there and take a look first?
Well, haven’t received any suggestions on painters, but I found two close by.
The first is excellent, though like previous finds, he sold his shop and is ready to retire. Currently he wants the project, but I will need to wait another 10 months for him to start.
The second posted pics of a 914 GT job he was working on 914world Facebook. The pics look good, but I haven’t had a chance to visit his shop yet.
If anyone knows of a good painter, please let me know. I’m willing to bring the car to most areas of Virginia, NC, SC, TN, or WV. Maybe further.
I’d love to paint it myself, but the job and life doesn’t allow.
So, it heads off to another paint shop this coming weekend (someone that promises not to retire before completing the paint), so I’m reinstalling the suspension so I can roll it onto a trailer.
One problem and question for the many more knowledgeable than I: I can’t get the top of the strut up to the mount. I’m sure there’s something simple, but I don’t know what to do. I’ve stretched the strut out, and used a jack to push the assembly up, but can’t it it all the way up.
Any thoughts?
A jack usually does it for me but one time I had to extend the shaft of the strut insert, hold it with a vise grip (piece of rubber sheet to protect the shaft) and then jack it up so the could put the nut on it. Some inserts are threaded in the shaft so you can use a long bolt to pull them up.
I agree with Mark.
For now leave the dust cover off so that you can keep the shaft exposed and extended.
Worst case remove the 'dog bone' adjuster at the rear of the torsion bar
so that the lower control arm can be raised at the ball joint.
If the shaft is threaded internally at the top thread a long bolt into it and pull it up with a vise grip.
Take off the t-bar cap and lift the strut into place. Sometimes the shocks are stiff to pull out but should go. It maybe just binding on the t-bars which is not allowing you to go up as far as you need.
Thanks for the input; I’ll try each suggestion this evening. It came off, so it’s gotta go back somehow.
Evidently, a blood sacrifice is required. I tried everything until my hand slipped leaving blood on the brake shield. After wrapping my hand up, I tried again - it moved very easily into place. Maybe the strut was just stuck...
I’m trying to be sure I have addressed everything prior to paint, and can’t stop thinking about more reinforcements. MadDog has inner longs panels that look like a good idea. Is this overkill, or beneficial?
My car is a very rust free car, but this could help reduce flex I think.
If you brace properly and Take your time, you are going to be good.
But I would set the chassis down on the middle section. Let the weight of the two ends unsupported and mount the doors and get you bracing set with proper gaps, add tap at each gap measurement, and write down your beginning measurement, and continue on from there. If you take your time, very little chance you will fleet the chassis.
Lots of them have been installed proper bracing of the opening is key.
I did my first set with a porta-power running from targa bar to footwells. Jacked it open to what I wanted and started welding. Just took my time, gaps never changed.
I coated both sides with weld through primer heavy zinc stuff, then took a drill bit made the tip flat, and cleaned each plug weld hole out. Then welded each one out becasreful not to put to much heat into the chassis.
I have seen your work, you got this.
My painter has been delayed a couple weeks - good thing since I have more to do.
Just finished the oil cooler base, mount, and front cut out. Later I’ll make a bracket to hold the cooler more firmly.
I’m still not happy with the fiberglass shroud; it has huge gaps where it should fit to the car. Maybe I’ll make one, or have a moment of weakness and buy one from Mittelmotor.
And parts from Mad Dog arrived today. I decided to go ahead with the longitudinal reinforcement, but I’ll wait until the frame guy checks the chassis.
These parts are well made also
The night before going off to paint.
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And it’s on the way to the painter. Now I’ll have a chance to get the 911 suspension and trailing arms ready.
The inner Long kit makes a big difference. Project looks great!
My moment of weakness slipped in this evening. The 914 is in body work, and I "need" the oil cooler duct. Well, you can save a few hundred buying direct from Mittelmotor, but the shipment takes a couple months.
Guess I’ll sell this fiberglass duct as soon as I find a box for it. I was disappointed with the fit, but it would be fine if a a seal is added, or with a little additional material on the leading edge.
I’m wanted to have my chassis checked prior to bodywork and paint due to the PO hiding damage on the car, but I wasn’t expecting the answer I got back.
He’s telling me that he may be able to straighten the chassis after removing the passenger fender and front panel that was replaced by PO, but that he highly recommends removing and replacing the inner fender, fender, and front panel along with a little more surrounding metal.
This sucks!!- guess I need to find a good passenger side front section.
So once you have some time to figure out what you need, give me a call. I have a parts car that should have the needed metal. Some parts on it are pretty rusty but some appear to be good. No charge if you come up and take what you need. Mark
This project is seriously so cool! So much inspiration. Maybe the next time around.
@Mitix - I feel your pain, having been there myself. Stay positive and think how nice it will be when it is done correctly and straight.
aye aye aye! That has got to sting getting that news.
My BDay & Christmas present to myself arrived yesterday. It took a little more than one week to ship from Mittelmotor in Germany, go through customs and arrive at my house - good job UPS. My wife is in shock though.
Looks great: it’s made well and powder coated nicely.
Wish I had known. I've got one from mittlemotor I never fitted ! Anybody needs a proper metal one let me know. I'll post in classifieds too.
The body is now in the shop where it will be straitened out and painted. It’s enough to drive me mad, but eventually it will be back on the road.
Anyway, while the body is gone, I’ve begun working on the suspension. While making space in the garage, I decided to disassemble the old front suspension to make it easier to move and sell.
The torsion rods are surprisingly clean. Does anyone know if these are original or aftermarkets?
Just dropped my GT tribute off at the body shop for paint yesterday too. You are making great progress. Once the car comes back all pretty it's great motivation to keep going. Start getting the things ready that will be going back in first and building up a parts pile of restored parts your going to have a lot of fun soon
The cross section seems to be 18mm. One end of each is as shown in the photo below, and the other end has either R or L . Wonder why the side is identified unless the metal grain is specific to the side in some way.
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I'm no expert but they look stock to me. The markings face out and the rods should be put back on the same side as they came out. From what I understand, they are side specific once used so they mark them so when they are removed, they get put back in the correct side.
The torsion bars are not side specific before they are used.
Only after they have been used are they side specific....they get used to twisting a certain direction.
If you twist them the opposite direction, they can break.
They are label L and R from the factory (and aftermarket for that matter) to keep it simple in knowing which bar came from which side of the car.
And thus which side to return each bar to.
You could just as easily without problems put a new L bar in the right side and visa versa with the R bar.
The problem is that someone down the line may not remember (or know) that the sides have been switched and then you potentially have problems with the bars breaking if they are put in the opposite side of the car.
Clear as mud I'm sure.....
Moving forward now. The hidden damage on the front drivers side is being cut out and replaced. A PO evidently smashed the passenger front side, removed some of the smashed pieces, “straightened” the inner wheel well, then replaced the fender and front panel afterward. All wrinkles were conveniently hidden with filler.
Well, to fix it, we are reversing the process and will replace the inner wheel well also. All will be perfect when completed.
Some in process pics below; just started removing the inner.
Make sure the stamped VIN in the inner wheel house is not removed
While the body is being reworked and painted, my primary task is to get the suspension ready to bolt back on. I’ve started on the trailing arms.
Welded on the reinforcement and prepped it to accept the 911 E-brake system. I think I want to keep the shield, but I’ll need to move one mount that interferes with the E-brakes and will need to modify the shield for the relocated mount.
I’ve ordered the E-brake cable kit from Chris Foley last month, so waiting on that to see how everything fits up.
And a few months later - the inner fender is fully removed. There’s a little surface rust in the bottom of enclosed areas, but but nothing worrisome.
Meanwhile, back in the garage ...
I’ve gathered the remaining parts needed to complete the trailing arms (except for new rubber bushings). Trial fit is in work to ensure everything works before final welds and paint. The high tech wooden bearing is helping out nicely.
While I'm impatiently waiting on the front fender reconstruction and paint, I've been researching the many options and opinions on suspension setup.
My plan (subject to change) is to use:
- the original 19mm torsion bars in the donor '84 911 front end
- Koni 914 strut inserts KON-8641-1077 (I think they fit the 911 strut)
- Koni 914 rear shocks and spring set up from Ground Control
- no rear sway bar
- All new rubber bushings - most likely Elephant's
Remaining issues:
- What spring rate to use on the rear - 140?
- what front sway bar to use and what diameter - 21mm?
I'd appreciate any input to help finish the plan and purchase list.
Does this make sense?? What suggestion would you have for changes or for the spring rate and front sway bars??
Driving style will be "wannabe" racer, but actually mountain curves as fast as I can without wrecking or hurting my back on bumps.
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I've no advise to offer on the last questions, but just wanted to comment that this is a damn nice build. Well done, sir.
A 21mm front sway bar is a BIG bar on a 914 and will increase the stiff feel of the 911 torsion bars that are for a 2700 lb 911. I'm not saying it's wrong and I certainly don't have the education in suspension like smarter people here but... It's going to be pretty stiff on the road.
You'll probably get too many answers with too many variables to your question, but I'll chime in, just to add to the melange:
So FWIW, my set up - on a GT /6 clone with mostly fiberglass everything, but roll cage & much stiffening welded in - is as follows:
- stock /4 torsion bars front, Sachs inserts in 911 struts
- stock /4 springs rear, Bilsteins height adjustable
- Weltmeister 21mm front sway bar, H&H adjustable arms
- no rear sway bar
- Falken street tires on 7Jx15 F, 8Jx15 R
I was concerned with Marks point about the front sway bar being too much, but the softest setting on the H&H arms (which are longer than the stock ones) works well for spirited canyon driving, and was not hideous on a recent track day either. CA freeway driving is pretty comfortable (with ear protectors in...!).
My car is pretty lightweight so the stock springs cope OK; if I was auto crossing then I'd think about stiffer springs and more expensive shocks, as well as dialing up the front sway bar. Also, $$ investment on the sticky tires du jour.
Again, FWIW,
- Tony
Another example of Ben’s artwork to add to my collection arrived a few days ago.
Can’t wait to listen to it.
Also had an exciting morning. I drove to Winston Salem to pick up a load of parts I had cad plated. Beautiful gold piece-parts!
Frank at Stratford Metal Finishing took car of me. He rebagged everything, and didn’t lose anything.
It’s been a while, but getting back into the project. My car’s bodywork and paint is supposedly going to move along with some speed now that others ahead of me are nearly all complete. This truck is the only thing in my way.
I know, it’s not a 914, but it’s cool -
You can see a bit of my 914 on the right side of the pic
I’ve started stripping done the Carrera front end I bought, and am considering sending a few parts out.
I have Boge struts, and I’m thinking about sending them to Elephant to have the spindles raised 19mm (the max they can raise them).
Still can’t decide between Bilstein and Koni inserts.
When I finally got the ball joints out, I found some damage on the drivers side control arm. It looks like the end has been shoved back a little off centering the ball joint location and ovaling the whole. Seems odd, no damage noticeable any where else.
As the more flare and wider your wheels. The leverage on the spreadsheet ng increases
Meaning a wide track car will need heavier spring rates as the extra leverage will reduce the effective spring rate
So you can bump your spring rates
Or gain a portion of that back with bigger sea bars
Cleaning up the garage this evening to see what I can get rid of. I have these Boge inserts from my struts; they came from an ‘84 that was wrecked a few weeks before I bought the front end.
Do they go in the scrap pile, or are they usable by someone - anyone?
Transmission plans:
Step 1: half way cleaned, but there’s a crusty grease/oil still there
Transmission plans:
Step 2: Tear down - my first time ever. Good thing Dr. Evil knows how it all goes back together.
Before I bring it to Evilwerks the case needs a serious cleaning; not sure of the best method for that yet. Then, after it’s clean, it gets a coating of cerakote; thinking about Satin Nickel C-124
It’s beautiful; just received my pedal cluster after a full rebuild by Bruce.
Awesome work!
Used the weekend to clean the transmission case more. Here’s a couple pics after two cleanings, each one soaking in oven cleaner overnight
Still need to remove the crusty oxidation - looks like blasting may be the way to go.
I have seen I think it is called Vapor Hone blasting, (if memory serves) and it leaves the case like the day it was made. No damage to anything and beautiful results.
I've vapor blasted a lot of parts. I usually glass bead blast to clean it and then vapor blast to get the smooth finish. Most mag parts on the east coast will be pitted and there's really nothing to do about it. A thick powder coat or epoxy will smooth it over some. Vapor blasting produces a finish similar to shot peening or tumbling and does help bare metal stay cleaner than bead blasting alone.
We should have a vapor blast machine soon for our new parts business. "The Nine Store"
914Rubber delivery today - rebuilt and Cerakoted steering rack
Looks great, but due to the grease I’ll keep it in the bag until the car is ready.
FedEx delivered my modified struts today. Elephant raised the spindles and added all the bits.
If I could only get my car back….
Another six months and my 914 is on the top of the list at the shop working the body. We’ve nearly completed fixing previous poor workmanship and the hidden damage in the front. The passenger side inner fender is replaced, and the body is getting a full strip. During the process I’m adding some reinforcements purchased from Maddogs.
Hmmm - now I need to finalize my color choice!
Here are my current four color choices - subject to change at any moment. I think I need more 914s so I can have more than one color.
Ravenna Green
Gran Prix White and black
White with a vivid green
Graphite Blue with graphics (probably in bright blue)
Getting there... and looking REALLY good! Hang in there. It'll be SOOOOO worth it when you're driving it.
Wow just Wow! It looks like a new car!
Charlie
Latest pic. Primed the interior and started the seam sealing. On the inside I’m using the urethane and then trying to duplicate the factory style sealer on top. This will be done in the front and rear trunk also.
Just noticed I forgot to add a few pics of the body work. So, it’s out of order, but I wanted to be sure they are here.
The fenders were stripped again due to poor work at a previous shop. Also decided to add a thin layer of glass applied over the weld line to ensure the line doesn’t transfer through the finish paint.
Love that Graphite blue paint scheme, your car looks great
More seam sealer pics. The inside and the trunks have been primed, and we are finishing the seam sealer. Using urethane sealer first with a brush finish, then following up with sprayed sealer in an attempt to match the original look.
I have a question for anyone that can help. There is a seem on the back side of the sail panels where a small permanently mounted section of the engine cover is. Does it have sealer at the locations shown in this pick? (Not my car, but it shows the area well)
It’s been a few years since I stripped everything, so I can’t recall.
No sealer in the long seam from the factory.
The area close to the glass is space for the rubber seal
Both are difficult to 'flood' with paint.
I've never seen rust jump out of that area in spite of how vulnerable it looks.
what are the brackets on the left and right of the trunk lock?
Matt
Just go with the last "GT"
It actually has some paint on it!
Pics are rotated 90 degrees for some reason
Nice! Gratifying to see some color on it, isn’t it….
A few months later and it’s starting to look like a 914 again.
We’re working on the metal flared rockers, the front bumper cut-out, and the front valance: pics to come.
Really coming along nicely.
I might actually get my 914 back soon!! - but then I’ll need to remember how to put it back together.
Here’s a pic of the front bumper in-work. The lower valence will be flared and have the lower section of the oil cooler opening.
That is really looking nice.
So, I’m having a rough time deciding on the bumper color.
Body color, black, or green to match the green “Porsche” graphic going on the side (front valence and rockers will be black). I like all options.
Here are a few sample pics I’ve found.
I think I’m liking this direction: green graphics and bumpers. Maybe paint the horn grills green also.
I like your green bumper black valence and rockers.. looks slick, but i dont like the green pedals and black background and polished barrels on the wheels. Wheels look best in orig pic, green pedals and background, polished or anodized barrels.
Other option is to paint the bumper black or body color and wrap with green, gives you an option to go back to in the future…
Really liking the green treatment in post 305. Not so much 311. You asked
Really like 306. Best painted bumper scheme I’ve seen. Only one I like actually. Maybe better than chrome.
I like the green on everything but the wheels. But wheels are wheels, easy to have more than one set for changing moods and uses.
More in-work pics: front valence flares and inlet mods.
Attached thumbnail(s)
Nice fab work on the inlet. I keep feeling I should’ve done that on mine, I guess time will tell.
That bumper opening looks very 914-8 like. Having done a few hundred now I see the difference
Very nice metal work on the valance and bumper.
Thanks. I must give credit where it is due, Greg, the guy working the body back to perfection is doing an excellent job. He’s built many great cars, but this is his first Porsche.
After the body and paint are done, I get to start working on it again - can’t wait
More paint pics - seal coat going on
And one more touch up needed on the trunk lid
Just mixed the the green this morning. This is for the bumpers and side graphics; the color in the pic is a little off - should be Viper Green M6C.
I wanted to do one more thing before paint goes on. The gap/joint at the fender-cowl is getting a liquid epoxy sealer that runs into the joint. Probably unnecessary, but it makes me feel good.
Already looking fantastic
Antoine
Final paint and clear coat! Still need to get a stencil for the green side graphic.
Looking forward to the reassembly pictures!
Bests
Antoine
A freshly painted shell is a thing of pure beauty.
! I’m loving it! We couldn’t get a template made, so ended up using a mile of tape. But, it worked really well. It will get cleared tomorrow.
They came out great! That must’ve been tedious but it looks perfect.
Four years later the 914 is back in my garage. Time for reassembly - and buying more stuff. I’ll need to make decisions on the suspension: front sway bar, torsion bars, rear springs, and shocks. I’ve already decided to use Elephant Racing rubber on the control arms and trailing arms.
There is one thing of beauty.
Looks great, loving the grasshopper look!
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