I think at least it is getting close. is this OK od should I mess with something
This was just after the start 1st gear flat on the floor turn right and didn't shift to 2nd till I was almost through the corner.
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with a new question. Does it look like the car is twisting as it loads the suspension? Looking at the targa bar and windshield frame. Guess that is what a roll bar or ENGMAN kit will fix?
Not going to do this fix to this body but May consider it for the stripper.
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Apr 13 2005, 09:01 AM) |
with a new question. Does it look like the car is twisting as it loads the suspension? Looking at the targa bar and windshield frame. Guess that is what a roll bar or ENGMAN kit will fix? Not going to do this fix to this body but May consider it for the stripper. |
QUOTE (Mueller @ Apr 13 2005, 08:05 AM) | ||
a roll bar won't help, but a proper cage would help greatly...the Engman kit is a decent alternative to cage.....a roll bar with a petty bar would help, but if street car or you have passangers, I'd make sure the petty bar is removable. |
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Apr 12 2005, 03:56 AM) |
till I was almost through the corner. |
Front is stock torsion bars, Welt 22 mm sway set 1 inch from end. Welt camber plates, Poly bushings in A-arms.
Rear is 150lb coil over stock sway bar on welt poly bushings. trailing arms have welt poly bushings also.
Kumho Ecsta V700 @ 37 PSI on Fuchs 1/4" wheel spacers all controlled by Koni red adjustables set 1/4 turn from soft as this surface is reallly bumpy.
roll bar is a simple steel tube bent into a U & welded to the base of the B pillar. It'll give occupants protection in a roll over.
cage is a whole heap of tubing that'll also protect occupants. But can be made to tie in suspension points & generally make the car torsionally stiffer.
A petty bar is a diagonal brace going from the main hoop to the passanger footwell.
Cool thanks I will do some searching here. I remember seeing a nice "one off" cage design about a year ago.
it's pretty damn hard to see anything from that picture. can you get some close ups?
QUOTE (nebreitling @ Apr 13 2005, 08:57 AM) |
it's pretty damn hard to see anything from that picture. can you get some close ups? |
http://www.delta-scca.org/05%20Delta%20Results/Apr%2010/apr10_pics2.htm
Near the bottom of the page.
http://www.delta-scca.org/05%20Delta%20Results/Apr%2010/Pics/DSC00161.JPG
much better... i think the angle exagerates the appearance of 'flex'. yeah, your rear right wheel is almost lifting -- but look at your front right! it's off the damn ground!
given that, i actually think you're staying pretty straight. although from what i've heard, the engman kit really helps allround....
n
here's another thing you can do (and it's for free!!!) ...
put the damm top on when you run!
Andy
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Apr 13 2005, 08:30 AM) |
Rear is 150lb coil over |
QUOTE (SirAndy @ Apr 13 2005, 09:20 AM) |
here's another thing you can do (and it's for free!!!) ... put the damm top on when you run! Andy |
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Apr 13 2005, 09:32 AM) |
Huh, wonder what effect a "flexiglass" top would have on making the car more ridgid versus the extra weight located that high up? Stiffer springs is do-able but would probably kill me driving to the events 125 miles over Loos-anna I-10 jumps not bumps. |
look at this pic, that was with the front swaybar *disconnected* (no rear bar) ...
btw. i drive my car a lot on the road, the 180 springs have a nice feel to them, i don't think they're uncomfortable at all ...
Andy
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Not to mention keeping the top on will shade me from the blazing summer sun.
Looks like this was my son driving he definately ain't scared.
Going to bring my video camera next time so I can get a better idea of what is going on. Plus it will show me where I was braking and listen to where I really was wide open and where I shifted.
Just read through a driving technique memo and it makes me confident I wasn't doing anything right. As evidenced by the top driver in our region riding along with me on a run.
His comments were very heplful
Don't grab the wheel so hard (well I'm always scared)
You can actually go straight through that obstacle Wide open. (damn that was cool)
turn quicker in the slalom don't wait till the car is past look further ahead (yea gotta work on that one)
DO NOT brake in the slalom (felt I had to slow down) cause I turn to slow ( I knew that but did it anyway) IDONNO
No fast way around the pivot cone good braking but get off brake earlier to get car to rotate better and get on gas earlier.
Damn thats alot to remember.
The rule of thumb as I was taught is if one corner is high the opposing corner is sprung to light. The dynamic flex can be slowed by the antisway bar and it sounds like yours is pretty soft. If it were me, I would stiffen up the front bar. Since you have torsion bars in front and it is a pain to put in heavier ones, I would say lower the rear of the car which will sshift some weight to the rear and have the effect of stiffening the front. On our 1974 914 it sits about as low as possible and there is just a very slight forward rake to help with turn-in. Good luck
Shit can the rear swaybar or install an LSD.
QUOTE (J P Stein @ Apr 13 2005, 05:01 PM) |
Shit can the rear swaybar or install an LSD. |
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Apr 13 2005, 05:44 PM) | ||
So this is contrary to what I feel is needed. ditching the rear bar will induce more understeer. Right? so how can that be good? Ya already put in credit card hack this month. a LSD would be out of the question. Next....... buy my Harley and then I can spent more. So I have gotten several different opinons on set up. but most say make the front stiffer either bar or spring rate. |
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