Meet Ordella
She’s a middle aged girl who’s silvery locks
have begun to loose their luster.
Her half gallon heart’s been still for near nine summers,
Thirsting for fuel and spark but lo, neglected.
And while she sleeps, we plan her resurrection.
We will cut and peen the cancer at her waist.
Her edge and fletch is brighter than her dark hides imply.
Brighter than the air rushing by that would cool her blood.
Brighter than the chrome on her windscreen wiper.
She is waiting...
Ordella: Little silver spear
The seeker of many roads and paths and places never seen,
By me nor my Lady.
Unafraid to lose her top!
This steely steed, this gray mare, this machine of grace and balance
will not pitch or yaw but will
carry us on her vulcanized hooves screaming.
She has a way of moving us while she’s still;
And being still while she’s moving.
And she will arrive just before us with a gleam
in her high browed eyes for those
who know the “9's”
And into that fold she’ll be welcome.
Nice verse probably fits half the teener owners out here.
ok, I'll do it...
Ya beat me to it Cpt.
Wow Dave!
Very....uh...descriptive!
I can almost see her topless body shining in the sunlight!
Lets see some pics of her....and your car too!
Here she is in her spacialy challenged abode in her favorite repose as stereo stand and book rest.
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Check it out! Child proof locks!!
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I'm not too happy with the paint. Is this "orange peel"? Or "fish eye"? Finger bullet indicates "flaw".
"hey honey, park that there under my truck!!"
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Hey capt...We haven't pulled up the rugs but we can't see the garage floor yet.
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Here's what kept me away from Ordella for the month of March. "It's transmission!", "It's art!"
It's transmission AND art!
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Hello?
Any advice on body/paint/interior or engine/susp/brakes is greatly appreciated. Links etc. I'll even drive over and steal yer wallet, er, cook steaks or whatever....
Hehe...that's cancer. Need to get that doctored fast.
Oh, for the incidentals. E bay, $1300, about 71,000 miles, seized motor, bad tires, cracked windshield and bad paint.
QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Apr 12 2005, 07:37 PM) |
I'm not too happy with the paint. Is this "orange peel"? |
Update:
Took out the seats. The passenger seat slid forward in the rail right up to the dash board until it came off the rails. (short people got no reason...). Found $3.00 in quarters, a tow "eye" and the knob for the headlight switch! There's surface rust on the seat mounts but it didn't get into the floor yet. Pulled the battery, deep surface rust on the tray but no perforation, it's still solid on the firwall. There's some rust creeping out from underneath the alum. threashold on the passenger side.
I know you want pictures but my girlfriend left her (birthday gift) camera out in the rain when we went camping and now it's KAPUT! Yeah, she's blond.
Besides, I gotta to save up for a rebuild kit.
Has anyone tried putting the battery in a marine battery box? They're water proof.
I'll get you some pictures in a couple days, OK?
Yeah... I ain't done much since you last checked in. I think I'll pull the bumpers and put her up on jack stands this week and get a couple friends to help me pull the motor on Saturday, 4/23. I'm just gonna shoot the rear window with some "black butyl" caulk to stop the rattle and move on, do the same to the tail lights. I'm not working on a museum piece here, or a trailer queen, I just want to get her running and looking good. Hey ...I've got a regular job that keeps me from important 914 stuff, ok?
Go ahead, send me some "brakes links" some "2.0 rebuild links" I need info!!!
Do the euro pistons (7.5, 8.0 ???)need F.I. Re-calibration?
Do the fuel lines REALLY need replacement?
My friends are Delphi/Harris (Radiator/HVAC) guys. Air cooled and and flat four are not really their thing (but they're still engineers!!) I want to know everything!!
QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Apr 18 2005, 10:10 PM) |
Do the fuel lines REALLY need replacement? |
edit the pic and save it as a jpg that is a small enough size.
I'm not a computer guy. My girl came in and saved me
Here's a couple new shots
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AAAAAHHHHHHH!
This project's "too Big" for me to handle!
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This pic shows how the trunk lid is skewed, and the bumper top has "puckered". The PO had a really bad paint job done. Note how the trunk seal is toasted by overspray.
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Here's some german spaghetti with a nice oily sauce
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Tomorrow Gloria and Louie are coming over for a drop engine party, He says he's rebuilt "several" VW's. We'll just see about that, won't we!
Here's an interior shot of the floor - looks solid. Cool.
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I think I've got the "stuff" to drop the motor. Confirm?
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I told my Brother-in-Law The tin smith, that the jambs were rusted out...
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So he made some nice 4" radiai, But I'm not sure why?
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QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Apr 23 2005, 11:12 PM) |
I think I've got the "stuff" to drop the motor. Confirm? |
Hi Dave
Lots of work ahead of you....
lots of time spent on the PC...
I will need to spend some time on my PC tracking it...
Good luck
Later
Joe
I have been defeated, delayed and demoralized. Louie did come and was a big help. Hoses, tubes, wires, relays, etc. have been disconected.
When we sniped the fuel lines I couldn't find a bolt and clamp to "staunch the flow"
I was running around like a gas soaked chicken with it's head cut off. We finally just decided to drain the tank, the slow way!!
My brain has a short in it. While studying engine drops, I read "CV joint removal tool", I saw clearly "12 point", I understood "star fitting". Somehow it morphed in my brain into Torx. It's not a Torx! A Pipe wrench will not remove them, nor will vice grips, nor hex head. I called NAPA, they had the part. Nan and Gloria drove over to pick it up and they locked the door in her face!
So we stood there staring, enjoying the sweet aroma of stale gas
More later
QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Apr 25 2005, 03:02 AM) | ||||
[QUOTE] Yes! |
Don't forget the funiture dolly. Nice to see your working on your car. I thought you were going to try to unseize the motor, PB blaster style with a hefty push in gear. It's probably better to pull it and work on it that way.
Here are some good links to get you started.
Pelican on the engine pull
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_engine_drop/914_engine_drop.htm
Info of type 4 engine, a great website with info from Compression Ratios to Piston/Cylinders, and it shows you what the differance between 1.8 heads 2.0 bus heads, and the covited 2.0 914 heads
http://tunacan.net/t4/
If you keeping the d-jet your going to need to read up on this site too
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/
Good luck, you'll have that baby running in no time
Samson
For those who are worried...
Ordella, I Ordella, I Ordella, I I Ordella, I communicate, I I I
And that should explain the strange goings on...
My intended victim...
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My weapon of choice
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Todd, Doug, and Sampson helped me figure this one out, Cleveland
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I'm sorry, I'm sorry I didn't get the engine out, I'm sorry I couldn't post a picture of something that looked like a pile of scrap metal on a furnature dolly that I dragged from my back yard. The nuts above the front engine mounts are a sick joke. Especially the pass side!! A box end wrench won't get in there, nor will a ratchet. I thought the bolt was stripped. I sawed the head off the bolt to find a good bolt and thread and nut.
Unless someone has a strange desire for abuse, I'd recommend hiring this work out. The stench of leaking gas hanging along the floor, the 40 degree temp and not being sure about the engine bolt threads sent me nearly over the edger~~
But otherwise...I'm OK!
Because!!! She's really clean!!...Pass side innerfender forward toward pass door, Yeah, Baby
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Super Dave
Looking good.....so what are the plans?
New motor, or...
Later
Joe
I need a new bumper sticker!!
How's my whinning?
Well the engines out, here's a pic to prove it...
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We (Nan and I) had a little trouble first getting the little "Injector clamp screws" to clear the sheet metal and then it hung up on the "swing arm nut". As the sheet metal got more "shtucken" the more "shtucken" the sheet metal got as it deformed outword. A catspaw and a little Persuasion from my mfh (middle sized hammer) got it bent back enough to clear. Maybe you can see it here..Just below the intake runners, passenger side. The driver's side offered no resistance.
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Regarding your inquiry, Joe:
I'd have to refer back to the links posted by Newto914's. I thought the Rennlist and the Type IV were excellent, (thanx, Sampson) I had seen the Pelican parts article before but the images wouldn't print so I couldn't take "all" the info out to the garage with me.
What I'd LIKE to do would be to put in the high CR european pistons, a hot ignition, and some high ratio rocker arms that I think I read about in Tom Wilson's book "How to Hot Rod your VW motor". BMW 320i calipers in the front, a 19mm brake cylinder and a nice paint job, close to stock but richer. A little toward "bronze".
The issue is cost. If the motor needs much machine work, (cracked heads, align bore, etc.) it will eat into my budget for high end parts.
As stated earlier, the car is a birthday gift for my girlfriend and while she's really special to me, "she ain't no saint!"
Let me post this and gathermy thoughts .
Another issue has come up I want you folks to consider.
Consider this...
The PO "said" that the engine was seized and the car sat for 8 years. We went to get the car, and put the front wheels on a tow dolly. As we began to drive away, the car was in gear and the back tires went "skiddle-de-diddle-diddle" left to right on the gravel drive-way. We put it in neutral and drove 800 miles home with no other event.
Now, put your thinking caps on and quit goofing around. This is serious!
When I got the motor out tonight, I was able to turn the fan by hand about a quarter turn. But when I hooked a batery to the starter, I just got a "clunk" that sounded like it came out of the transaxle. No engine rotation at all!
Is it possible that the tranny is "seized" and the motor is fine? I fiddled with the "shifter arm out the bottom" but got the same result each time.
WWBD
(what would Brad Do?)
Dave that's a doozy
I would think that if the tranny is seized you wouldn't even be able to shift it out of gear. Also even in neutral part of the tranny is still turning, I think.
Even though, if it was the tranny I would think you'd be able to start it by holding down the clutch while cranking, something I'm sure the PO already tried.
With the motor out separating it from the tranny should be cake, than after pulling the spark plugs you should have no trouble turning it by hand. That's if it's not seized, but I don't know anything, most of my working knowlegde is pieced together from video games and porn.
Good luck, in my opinion, is always best to just take the physical challenge
Samson
I'm having alot of trouble with this camera. Here's what a friend picked up,,,if it works!!!
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the trunk looks good
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A couple more questions for ya!
I've got her up on jack stands and I'm ready to prep for paint/bodywork.
1. how do you pry the trim off, in general, and not bend the crap out of it? I see the trailing edge of the sail panel trim has screws but what about all the other?
2. Why weld on a jack post "backing plate"? How about shaving the post, "frenching" the hole in the outer rocker panel and carrying a scissor jack along with?
3. Is it possible to remove the rear window without pulling the firewall padding?
4. Does anybody have a detail drawing of the 916 fuel door? I see the supports (buttresses?) under the hood are formed to accomodate a door. The pan under the cap already has a drain and is plumbed.
5. We need a windshield, (or "windscreen" for all you Brits) But we're looking for one that's left-handed. Can you offer some leads?
That's all for now, Over and outta here!!
here's the passenger side
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I met the new neighbors last night. They moved here this week. They're from Yorbalinda, CA!! AND he's selling a sand rail. He's going back to CA next week to finalize a few things. He's totally familiar with these flat fours and has offered to lend a hand. Let me know if anyone is interested in his car. I can put you in touch.
#1 - you can use your handy-dandy 5-way to get the trim off. Generally, I just use a 2" putty-knife and take my time.
#2 - Some people do that....Some like the look. Depends on how bad yours are...and they look pretty bad.
#3 - do a search..I think McMark did a thread with a step-by-step that explains the whole thing.
#4 - Nope...can't help ya.
#5 - Is that like a left-handed hammer?
Thanks!!
I look at these rebuild threads and I clearly count 9 distict body parts, "no problem" It's like a big model!
No, it's not.
Sorry about no new pics, Just pulling trim, lights, glass, bumpers. Nothing exciting
Louie is anxious to tear into the 2.0 though. I saw him yesterday for awhile and he asked "when???" three times!
Here's a pic of Ordella's evil step sister, But she's a runner!
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I always smash my thumb with the left handed hammers!!
Last minute advice would be appreciated. Today about 5pm eastern I'll be tearing down the 2.0
Ideas?
Maybe it seems obvious, the muffler has to come off before the tranny comes out. Ever bolt was rusted solid, sawzall'd two of them the others just twisted off
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One of the pins on the flywheel was peened over pretty good. After much pursuasion the pressure plate finally wiggled off. That would be a picture of some pretty tasty asbestus dust. Clutch friction plate was shot!
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Here's a good way to remove a flywheel. The cat's paw in the bottom of the picture didn't work well because the twisting on the bolts would just lift the car off the floor. The bar is from a set of free weights. I wasn't using it for anything else!
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While fishing around for the screws that hold on the FI, This thing just went flying, I wonder how it goes back on.
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Looks like you had a naty time of it.
First suggestion? Get a BUNCH of light in that garage. I was using a couple of moveable lights and the bulbs on the ceiling and I was always angry at the car. It sounds funny, but it's true. As SOON as I got a bunch of flourescents in there, I started moving a lot faster. I didn't ave the 'dungeon' feeling anymore. I got 5 of the 2-light Home Depot specials, and a 10-pack of lights. Spent a total of $69 and it made all the difference in the world.
Here are the ground connections for the FI. Near the back of the engine. The Air box (distributer") was NOT held on with case bolts. I finally discovered it was held on be Cooling tin screws buryed under the muck.
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pass side off. While searching for the alledged bolts for the air box as pry and push and pull to get a view or a wrench on something, the hoses and such just start falling off, all willy nilly! Yeah I said "willy nilly"
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What appears to be an octopus savegely disected with a dull ax is actually a FI system savegly disected with a blunt wrench. And after three hours of crawling around on the floor, you can tell I feeling pretty good about it.
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Here's the bolt that holds the distributor. It was totally buryed by the muck!
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I had to tap on the end of the screw driver pretty good to get these screws loose. I used a pipe wrench on the handle to get then off
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Hey Doug, How's it going? Is your "prize" car home yet?
The yellow shading in the pictures is a flood light directly over the engine, plus a dbl. flor. over the bench and a sixty watt three feet on the other side, and a drop light. My camera doesn't seem to throw the flash very well, I don't know what the deal with it is.
Here's the work space. The florescent to the left is a 4x, that will get wired in next. Even with the flash, it doesn't light up very well.
I think it's about time I get to work
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QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ May 12 2005, 10:48 AM) |
Hey Doug, How's it going? Is your "prize" car home yet? The yellow shading in the pictures is a flood light directly over the engine, plus a dbl. flor. over the bench and a sixty watt three feet on the other side, and a drop light. My camera doesn't seem to throw the flash very well, I don't know what the deal with it is. |
Forgot to mention. Before pulling the tranny I hooked up a battery. The bendix was just making a loud clanging sound and with the solinoid jumped the starter spun freely.
As I turned the motor by hand it seemed to have very little compression and then suddenly stopped. Like a broken piston or something.
Here's some more pics for you's. Remember if anything occurs to you, go ahead and shout it out!
This thing is filthy!!
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Here are the three screws under the cylinder holding the sheetmetal to the head.
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What's this called, "blowby"? Why does it happen? Bad rebuild? bad head?
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I forgot why I took this picture, Oh, for you newbies, make sure to grab one of those magnetic grabbers before starting a job like this. The ten million washers and screws try falling "into" the motor all the time
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Now I remember, are these High comp pistons?
These lifters are nearly perfect. Do you suppose the PO had the top end rebuilt??
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Here's the other head. I don't see any crack!! So far!
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So after finding the three sheet metal screws "under" the cylinder on one side I promply forgot and tried to bang off the other side. Breaking!!! a couple fins
Thanks go out to Jake Raby for his video "How to rebuild a type IV" And Tom Wilson's book "How to rebuild your VW Engine"
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Here's another shot of the pistons. the cylinders look really clean and the heads, under the valve covers, do too.
Can you guys offer any advice?
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Just a post to let you know we're watching and enjoying your progess. Man! I'm sure you'll enjoy putting this back together alot more.........it will be clean!!!
Mine started out almost as nasty. Here it is after the rebuild-degrease:
I just pulled it to put it in the flared car that is my avatar. It's always fun to take a nasty piece of crap, disassemble it, clean it up, replace the needed items, and reassemble. Oh, and while you're in there you always have to consider bigger valves, bigger pistons, bigger cylinders, upgraded fuel system, how about setting it up with a deeper sump and an external oil cooler............. in other words.......how else can I spend money, make it faster, make it more fun !!!!
Glad to see that you utilized the video for it's intended purpose!!
The marks you see on the heads from leakage is not from "blowby" it is called a head leak and the entire reason why VW sent out the bulletin in the early 80s saying to remove the head gaskets from the engine upon the first rebuild...
If you need any assistance through the build process you know where to find me and the parts to do it right without guessing!
we're watching you man and rooting for you! if you have questions, we're here!
Hey Dave, those pistons appear to be the opposite of "high comp" pistons. Instead, they look to be horsepower stealing dished bus pistons. If you are gonna rebuild that engine, those should become your new favorite paper weights or door stops.
Honestly, you seem to be spinning your wheels on some things that might be smoothed out a bit by some quality time in the "reading room" with a good shop manual. I am a little spolied by the factory set my wife got me for Christmas last year, but even the Haynes has a lot of the same diagrams and pictures that can save you some serious time. If you are struggling with a particular thing, shoot me a PM and I will see if there is a good pic in the factory stuff.
Other than that, keep at it brother. You are making good progress.
Damn, wish I had Jake's video back when I did my first 3 type 4's..
Did one in '74, '82, & '87..... Jake, was my first rebuild ('74) before you were
born? All we had back then was, "How to keep your VW alive, for the complete idiot"!
I really want to do one soon, with the new age knowledge.
I hope to be calling on you soon, Jake!
Man...you are way more motivated(and talented) than me. I would have said no way to rust repair and a total rebuild. Of course I'm the guy that took his whole car apart then let it sit for a year and a half. Only to finally realize that I didn't know how to put it back together. So...off to the shop it went. Six months later and I'm on the road again. Guess I didn't realize my lack of skills early enough!
Keep the updates comin'.
Hey!!!
Thanks for the support, I really, really mean that!
I feel like a groupie for some rock star and you finally noticed me.
a couple comments:
1: I got fired from a radio job in Plano, TX on my 21st birthday, KTLR 107 FM (in Terrell). KZEW was my favorite station!!
2: Sir Andy said post a link to my progress thread, I don't know how. Capt tripps' thread shows up on every post. How do you do it?
3: I'm needing an engine stand converter for the 2.0. I was thinking about making one out of scrap metal but finding one here might be cheaper. Any leads?
4: I'm gonna go split that case, let's see what we come up with.
5: Jake, the type 1 oil pump. How do you do it? And why, better flow? can you sell me one that's machined?
QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ May 18 2005, 05:40 PM) |
2: Sir Andy said post a link to my progress thread, I don't know how. Capt tripps' thread shows up on every post. How do you do it? |
CODE |
[URL=http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=29193]Meet Ordella[/URL] |
Thanks Gint!!
Iwas clicking on "my assistant" DUH
Bearing completely Farked!!!
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There's about 1/4 inch of wobble on this thing, up and down.
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PO said it didn't make any noise. Right.
I reall hope the crank's not shot.
That doesn't sound too good. With 1/4" of play in that I would be suprised. Get it all torn down and start checking tolerances. Then you'll know what you're up against and can start the shopping list.
If you want the 1.7 we pulled from the Junkster...she is yours. I think you have an up-hill battle with the one you have.
All I really want off of it is the tranny, I was going to dis-mantle the thing this weekend. It's sitting about 5ft from when you last saw it.
Come and get it if you want it...
Hey Dave
You are going to have to get it apart and start taking basic measurements to see if its really salvagable.
Its not just the crank but the rods and case, that will absolutly need to be reworked, but for me this is a standard part of air cooled rebuilds. I don't know if this was in your budget ?
Check with Mark for a crank setup
Later
Joe
In those last couple of pics, it certainly looks like that engine got HOT
Here's some more damage. These are compression rings from #1 and #2 and a pile of stuff found in the case with a magnet.
I think you guys are right
I'll grab a micrometer on my way home from work.
Joe,
Mark Henry?
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If you get frustrated....this 1.7 is yours for the taking...come and get it. May not be 100%, but you KNOW it turns!
Let me know...
Doug,
Absolutely, yes, thank you.
this case will not open even after I found the "secret" bolts
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here's another one, Oh, I went to two auto parts stores,
FLAPS to you west coasters but I thought FLAPS just sold Cessna parts... ...and neither had a micrometer...
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I had a peice of pine 2x2 that I rapped "hard" with a 20 oz. hammer on some solid surfaces and Nothing. The case will not open!
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Here's a shot of my camera doing something funny, but damn it, I counted 23...nuts and bolts. The pig should open...!
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Nanette got in about 11:15 tonight from a golf outing and dinner with her friends. She says will you be out here long...I says "Why "?
She sais "because I don't want you to get "obsessed" with this car...
QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ May 26 2005, 01:01 AM) |
I says "Why "? She sais "because I don't want you to get "obsessed" with this car... |
Hey Chris
Do you think any of your sponsers can "weld up" this bad crank I've got?
I thought the shot was pretty cool, too.
QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ May 26 2005, 01:19 AM) |
"weld up" this bad crank I've got? |
I found the "that other secret bolt" It's the through bolt under the push rod tubes that goes in above the oil pick up tube. But you guys already knew that!!
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"One of these things is not like the other, One of these things is not like the other"
Sung to the Now or Later theme
In my Haynes manual, I can't find the tolerance specs for "out of square" Con rods....
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Looking at the first two journals makes me feel cranky
I'm getting the picture. My engine ran like this:
Before it died!!!
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Found a Tech to got through my heads. Walking distance from my house.
Apex Automotive
4915 Ransom road
Clarence, NY
716 759 8686
Hey Dave
Whats up? You hidin....? more pics please.
Whats up with the motor...I getting a 1.7 complete.
The PO put 2200$ in the motor last summer, and my
swap plans, have no need for it.
If you need it, let me know....ot might at least get you running while you can take care of other things
Later
Joe
I've got a 1.7 that I think (hope) he's coming to get. If he can come get it, he can have it. I just want him to finish his car.
Maybe when you come out, I'll take you for a nice-loing drive and you can see what these things are all about. To date, I don;t believe Dave has ever even HEARD a 914.
Hey Capt (and Joe)
I wasn't at your house long enough to get infected with your speed desease, or what ever it is you've got.
Patience, patience. This is the boring part of the build (er, ah teardown). I found some of your old posts and have been reading them.
I am:
Waiting for new Jugs, oversized.
waiting for Nan's brother to fab some outer long sheetmetal for me.
Shopping for a cam.
Shopping for a gasket kit.
Heads cleaned and inspected
We'll be out to get the motor any day now. I have to rebuild the wiper transmission on the M-a-z-d-a
and install a new oil pan gasket, That should happen on Sunday.
Next weekend maybe a good time to come out if you're gonna be around.
we're back
Yeah I kinda hit a road block...
Here's what you can do with;
1. an old paint brush
2. some paint thinner
3. a tooth brush, and
4. a garden hose
5. three hours
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http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=37876
It's been a busy summer. My girl friends brother still hasn't come through with the outer long sheetmetal replacement.
The last month I've been working on a shed in the back yard.
The Mazda has a wiper transmision problem (bent, seized, bad motor,etc )
And travel, party, wedding weekend stuff is keeping us busy.
The heads are done. Cleaned, new guides, reassembled. $200 for the works!
It's good to know that you're making progress!
What's next?
A couple members have offered me a set of new P&C's and wants an an offer but I'm not sure what to offer. A local import shop says he can get me a cheap set for $250. I'll be shopping for a cam and lifters, I'm thinking web 73 or a 9550 from Jake, and I need bearings. The shop ground the crank mains 1 over but the case and throws are stock.
The body is sitting in the garage all forlorn looking. The glass, back pad, firewall soundproof and all the stuff that didn't fall out with the engine are still on the body. I need an Engman stiffening kit for the longs and to do the fuel lines. Oh. the cooling tin and tranny are really filthy, I've been trying to get those cleaned up.
So, basically I'm just about ready to drive it!
To get those really greasy parts cleaned up. I'll turn you onto my secret weapon.
Go down to Lowes / Home Depot and pick up a few cans of MEK ( Methol Ethol Keytone)
1.\ Get some chemical gloves! ( this is a must have )!
2.\ Get some goggles on to protect your eyes from any splash.
3. \ Pull out your old paintbrush and a few rags.
4. \ Be in a well ventilated area away from any chance of a flame or the crap getting into the house.
(Your Mrs will thank you for it.) Plus you don't have to worry about your ass getting blown to Jesus.
That is all you will need.
Try not to over breathe or come in contact with the liquid as this shit will kill you. I'm not even joking. The grease and any other type of oil will run like a watercolor when this stuff is applied. No scrubbing, no nothing, instant gratification. Be responsible and burn the rags as this crap will stay in soil up to 25 years.
( very bad for the environment )
This stuff if spilled / applied to your concrete driveway / garage floor and with a cotton rag will "sop-up" embedded grease and oil.
Hope this helps for future projects.
Remember do not over breathe and or get it on your skin.
just because
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