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Posted by: jporsche914 Apr 14 2005, 03:38 PM

It is time to replace the bushings in my 914 and i have a couple questions about removing the control arm. My first question is how hard is it to remove and reinstall the hub and driveshaft from the control arm. This is really the only thing i am woried about. Is there somthing in this process that i should be carefull with so i dont screw everything up? Is this a weekend job or should i wait until i have 4 or 5 days off?
Thanks Alot,
James

Posted by: lapuwali Apr 14 2005, 03:55 PM

Look in the Classic threads. Eric Shea covered this extensively, with pictures.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Apr 14 2005, 04:14 PM

I'd say it's a weekend job if you have all the parts, nothing goes wrong and you've got a press and some air tools. Otherwise... plan on your 5 day thingy.

When you say remove hub do you mean you'll be replacing your bearings as well? You don't need to remove the hub to get the bushings off.

Bushings come out best with a press. I heat the rod end that I'll initially be pressing with a MAPP torch. It helps break the bond it has on the bushing. Press it through and remove the bushing with a large screwdriver. Turn the control arm over and press the rod back the other way. Same torch method. Same screwdriver. Best to cut grease grooves in the new bushings and lube with your favorite synthetic grease. If you don't have a press you can probably use the torch to burn the bushings out. It's worth the $99.00 Harbor Freight investment to get the press (IMHO).

If you'll be removing the hub and the bearings it's best to use a drift on the hub. I use an old 911 torsion bar with the fat end. One whack with the sledge and they're outta there. Next the bearing has to come out. I use a blunt ended chisel on an air hammer. If they don't move after a couple of short bursts then I apply heat with the MAPP torch again. That usually breaks the bond.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions while digging in...

Posted by: jporsche914 Apr 14 2005, 04:28 PM

So all i have to do is remove the drive shaft and the brake and unbolt the control arm to get the arm off the car?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Apr 14 2005, 04:40 PM

Don't forget the shock.

--DD

Posted by: RustyWa Apr 14 2005, 10:52 PM

I've been doing some reading about cutting grooves in the bushings. At least one person suggested against this practice as it could weaken the bushing and cause it to "flow" prematurely.

Any other opinions on this?

I was hoping you could do this, somewhat easily, without removing the whole trailing arm from the car.

Posted by: Joe Ricard Apr 15 2005, 06:20 AM

Well here is what I did and it wasn't too bad...
Left the trailing arm on the car just dropped the pivot end. Note: measure the distance from the hub to like the door edge so you can get toe back close to what you had.
Used propane torch burned out the rubber bushing. match fit the welt race compound bushings to the shaft. once bushings were in the housing I drilled holes for grease fittings.
Then put in the shaft and bolted up the hole thing. Did a string alignment and found that the wheels were still pointing in same direction.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Apr 15 2005, 07:28 AM

Eric,

They "flow" prematurely anyway... JP has a nice picture of that somewhere.

If done properly, meaning don't hack the shit out of it, I think it could "extend" the life of those bushings. We're talking shallow grooves in the center (not all the way from end to end) to hold some synthetic grease.

I'd rather leave them in if they're in decent shape and don't vary beyond 2mm on either side (top to bottom).

Posted by: Eric_Shea Apr 15 2005, 08:31 AM

QUOTE

So all i have to do is remove the drive shaft and the brake and unbolt the control arm to get the arm off the car?

Pretty much, other than the shock Dave mentioned. With the shock, it's sometimes easier to leave it on and remove the entire assembly. Taking the top shock bolt off is much easier than getting a 22 or a 24mm on the bottom "sliver" of a bolt. The rest is pretty straight forward.

If you're planning on a weekend job, go out now and try to get some penetration oil down into the 17mm bolt shafts. There should be three plastic plugs well hidden on "top" of the forward suspension consoule under a bunch of undercoating and crud. Pop those off and spray some PB Blaster down into each one.

You'll have the three 17mm bolts per side and the 22mm nuts holding the control arm onto the mounts.

Posted by: cdmcse Apr 15 2005, 09:39 AM

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Apr 15 2005, 09:31 AM)

If you're planning on a weekend job, go out now and try to get some penetration oil down into the 17mm bolt shafts. There should be three plastic plugs well hidden on "top" of the forward suspension consoule under a bunch of undercoating and crud. Pop those off and spray some PB Blaster down into each one. You'll have the three 17mm bolts per side and the 22mm nuts holding the control arm onto the mounts.

Take lots of care with those 3 bolts. They are very difficult to get out if the break off.

Posted by: andys Apr 15 2005, 09:51 AM

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Apr 15 2005, 05:28 AM)

Eric, They "flow" prematurely anyway... JP has a nice picture of that somewhere. If done properly, meaning don't hack the shit out of it, I think it could "extend" the life of those bushings. We're talking shallow grooves in the center (not all the way from end to end) to hold some synthetic grease. I'd rather leave them in if they're in decent shape and don't vary beyond 2mm on either side (top to bottom).

I've recently had some lengthy discussions with the engineers at Energy Suspensions. They mfg urethane suspension bushings for just about anything (except the 914). I did ask a lot of questions with regard to the dreaded bushing squeak. Two things, they said. 1. Excessive preload is usually the first mistake people make....tighter is not better. 2. Outside of THEIR lube, they suggested either marine grease (due to it's heavy body), or anti-sieze; the Teflon based type. FWIW.

Andy

Posted by: Eric_Shea Apr 15 2005, 12:50 PM