Well I've started the process of preparing for
my 2056 GT to 2.4L six "rallye tribute" auto.
Tearing into the interior I discovered some rust mites have been eating for a while.
Doesn't look too extensive but will be probing some more. The exterior left long was
patched a long time ago, albeit incorrectly. This was done by shop
that wasn't fully up to speed on these cars and I was still a novice, well
still am. I'll be doing some exploratory surgery on this left side inside and out. So I'll get this addressed before any engine install takes place. Would like to
have it buttoned up for Hershey 2017. Wish me luck.
Doesn't look bad. Grab a multi tool and get rid of the floor tar once and for all.
I intend to Mark.
As always Dave has my back!
I rely on his Jedi knowledge.
At what point do I go to Earl Schreib & Zeibart?
After the foil is in?
Right after the foil. If you want it proper.
All you need to do a pro repair- no metal work!
I knew this club would payoff in its wealth of knowledge.
You guys are great. This is gonna be fun.
looks like you got a little work to do. Good luck with it!
Paint it Red.
The problem your going to run into is the degradation of the inner stiffening layer too. Which is the layer where the seat belt anchor starts it spot welds.
Jeff did an extensive rebuild/patch in that area in his thread.
Hopefully yours won't be that extensive. Was the jack point replaced on the prior repair ?
The jack point was completely cut out. They just welded up "patch".
However unbeknownst to me they never joined the top of the patch to where it meets
the door sill area. I will cutting out that whole area to see what's what.
Yeah it will be a nice challenge with that seat belt anchor area. We'll get it done.
Also need to address front of long next to front left wheel well/fender.
Purchasing cut off wheels and a new grinder/ die grinder. I'll add to this thread as I make progress
Well did more exploratory surgery and it's ugly. Beauty on
the left side was in fact only skin deep. Consulted with my
bro Dave ( 914Dave ). So time to cut out the outer long complete.
To the kickup and replace the metal accordingly. Inside the cabin
area can be fixed with a few patches. Floor is in good shape remarkably.
I should just enter the buildoff at this point
Opened up whole of left longitudinal today. I'll be ordering some metal
for the U-boat. I'll be replacing the sill,door jamb, rocker outer cover,
the rear jack donut and inner rear lower firewall.
Dave lent me his spot weld remover bits so that's where I'll begin.
Then I'll address a "hatch" for the six to adjust the timing. Lots of work ahead.
Many of you guys have been here before. Wish me luck.
This will be going at the same time as reassembling Dave's GT. So little time!
Your going to need a few more license plates and possibly another roll of duct tape...
So the build challenge is on. Happy to say I've obtained a nice heater tube from
Rich (rdauerhauer). So that's a relief as the original was a little cut into.
My supply of spotweld cutters is here, so hope to post more pics soon of progress.
Goal for this time frame till January is to remove rear quarter panel and lower firewall
driver side. As well as weld up the many numerous holes in the firewall that were used for running wires. Parts have been ordered from Restoration Design as well as 914rubber. Carry on.
Mark, I don't think I'd go this deep into "hell" if it wasn't for this lift. Heheheh
I'll keep checking on the sticker. For some reason "car-bone" comes to mind regarding
odd,one off stickers and such. Thanks.
SoCalAndy makes the stickers.....
Socalandy. His awesome six build is in the restoration forum
Thanks for the info on the stickers. I'll give him a shout. Yes I have his build bookmarked. It's excellent.
I would say you have your work cut out for you. But really, your work is cutting everything out. :-)
Still cutting away. Parts from Restoration Design on the way. Time to break out
the kerosene heater soon. Hitting 38*F tonite.
Drilling out spotwelds is certainly a test of wills. Progress is
slow but it's progress.
After knowing and talking with ScottyB enough, he says that even the nice looking ones have rust...looks like you got lucky and hit the motherload
I guess it's good restoration design is a sponsor. Best of luck on the fixn', your progress thus far shows you are going to be able to handle it just fine.
keep up the good work
somebody I think in the 2016 build off had an alternate method of drilling out the spot welds using regular bits
sorry can't remember who it was or the details like bit sizes but basically it involved drilling just thru the first layer with a larger bit and 'exposing' the weld then drilling a thru hole large enough to remove most if not all of the weld then, if necessary, he reported it was easy to pry/pop the panels apart
kinda sounds like 2 steps to do 1 to me but he seemed to like the results
looks like you have your hands full but also that it is in good hands, have fun!
Thanks guys. Appreciate the confidence.
Thanks Dean, the whole dash is out. Have a nice NOS to put in there.
I'll be covering more of it with thicker plastic when it's time for paint.
Cutting around the door brace on the jamb side till I can weld a triangular
plate near the floor and long and firewall then I'll remove the jamb.
Goal for tomorrow is removing all of rear left quarter panel. "Tyga" I'll check the donut thanks.
Ok finally removed rear quarter. It's really amazing what you can find hidden
underneath nice paint. A complete chunk missing beneath the left rear light housing.
Popped right out when I flexed the panel while removing. Next up left inner lower firewall. Oh and my "fresh air" elbow was half bondo!?! So this car had issues
back before 1986. I purchased it March 1986. I never would have known till I took on the task of
putting the six in.
So with the rear panel off was better able to access the work at hand.
Cleaned up a lot of undercoating.
Found a decent sized hole on the left susp. console.
So I'll be ordering a bit more steel. I want to next remove
the lower inner firewall , to clean up and cut out around and including
the seatbelt anchor.
Dion - I have a '72 donor car that is virtually rust free. I've been slicing off the handful of pieces that I'll need but feel free to contact me if you need any sheet metal parts that you can't find. It's got solid consoles on both sides.
I'd love to see it help a fellow Build-Off Challenger!
Keep up the great work!
Cut away the remainder of the sill panel.
Surface rust on the extra panel in front of heater tube.
No issues there. Will make patch panel for lead edge of the long that you
see just inside the wheel well.
Removed more of the door jamb except for brace area.
Cut open seatbelt anchor region to take care of that and prepare for
placing in new steel.
I removed the left half of inner firewall just before
tunnel overlap. The tunnel is sound from what I can tell on probing and
scraping. Test fit the new panel of firewall. Should be real nice when complete.
The bronze brazing mixture on those E brake tubes are a bugger. Did my best
not to destroy them.
I'm at the point now that I'll be sandblasting all these
areas. I'm awaiting a call from Lowes for my new
compressor (Christmas gift). Then that will be the next
coming weeks chore.
I'm amazed at the level and extent of surgery you're taking on! Impressive.
I always thought R&R was short for "Rest and Relaxation", but your work has me thinking it's really "Remove and Repair"!
Keep up the great work.
ps. I should be able to get you that suspension console by around year end. Let me know if there are any other pieces you need.
Thanks for that Chris. I'm the one that gets slack jawed seeing the other builds.
The tube frames & carbon fiber stuff. Just incredible.
Hats off to all you guys.
Cheers all, Dion
Ok, I'm an idiot. I moved my post to the official challenge thread. Sorry.
Since PA has been hit with the 20*F temps for a while now and
snow is on the ground. It's been slow progress. My kerosene heater
is having a hard time keeping up. I'm also waiting for my electrician
to be available to run a dedicated line for my new compressor.
So doing some other jobs.
Obtained some "past it" Fuchs to roll the car around for when
the weather breaks and commence with the sandblasting.
Also working on front struts. They are renewed and painted.
Proceeding with placing new bearings in the 911 hubs so I can
have the front suspension done and ready to bolt in.
Have some minor work to do on the six engine as well.
I'll update accordingly.
The weather and electrician have conspired against Dion making progress. To my benefit as he helped me fish the wiring harness and hang the dash in my car yesterday. Thanks D! I guess it pays to have proper heat in the garage
Your Bilsteins are making me green with envy...
Our cold can't rival yours but we're in the 30s, which is uncomfortable enough.
I got a 220V electric heater and put in on a roll around stand. I just point at where I'm working and it makes all the difference.
Keep up the great work!
New ball joints installed. Pay attention to the type of pinch bolt
you have. Torque slowly. Some have reported snapping but must have
"drawn" the bolt through with nut instead of hammering in flush first.
Nothing like a little brake and suspension porn on a Sunday evening!
Looking good, Dion.
great work; the bilsteins look very nice
Some garage time this afternoon.
Started prepping trunk area. Removed a chunk of JB weld from trunk I patched
years ago. Needless to say hole enlarged. Learned my lesson. So cut out around it.
This will get a patch.
Also some body filler escaped proper contouring from way back in 2004.
Popped it off to find a strange upward dent. No idea how
that would ever happen since it behind the rubber cap of bumper top.
So hammered it back to more appropriate shape.
Mine has the same hole. No idea what it's for.
My replacement pan has that hole. I don't think it was on my 73.
Bodywork has come full stop for now.
Temps are in 20's to 30's and I've come down
with a major sinus infection. Uggh! Been battling it since New Years,it comes and go
but has come back with a vengeance. Being an RN we are the last
ones to see a doctor. Ok enough of that.
I'm updating with older pics here since it is my build thread. So it
serves as a great history.
So first is the 2.4 when I first purchased it nearly 2
years ago. I then cleaned it up and began replacing items
Found the ball that was supposed to be on the spring was missing.
Glad I dug into these Zeniths.
I found a great thread about the Zenith carb being rebuilt on the bird site:
I read it about 10 times before I had the nerve to dig in.
So the upper valve covers that I did in silver paint were done over
in black since the silver didn't adhere very well. Must have had
remnants of oil on them. So after I adjusted the valves this past week
i cleaned the covers up again and did them in black.
Doing the valves with the motor out has to be the way to go.
If you have a lift. It took me over just 2 hours. First time doing a six.
I did it using the standard method as well as the "backside" method mentioned on the
bird site. I prefer the standard method honestly. As I found variations using the backside method. But that's me.
Put the carbs back on. Added the surrounding sheet metal.
Fan side will have to come back off to place motor mount on.
Momentarily felt bad as I had to cut into original 914/6 tin to
Make it fit the 2.4 engine. Oh well. Sorry purists!
Cut out the firewall to make my life easier in the future.
I know there's plenty of opinions on this.
Rest assured it will be covered with a steel door made from another
firewall courtesy of Garold. I will be welding nuts to engines side to secure it. Add appropriate rubber seals,etc.
That's a way down the list. Nevertheless that's the plan
Nice work on the motor Dion,what history do you have on it ?,bet the can't wait to get it in.
You did a better job of the firewall cut than I did,mine was a bit of a hack job ,it was great to have it open to do timing etc.
I see you have the ''holy grail'' Bosch cast iron distributor ,is it a ''06'' off the "S" model ?.
Keep up the good work
Hey Dean, thanks for the compliments. I can't wait to be up and running like yours!
The distributor is a 0231-159-001 cast iron from a '67 T. I think they might also have
been used on the "S".
The 2.4 has an aluminum '67 case, counterweight crank, rods were checked and
balanced by Ray Litz. New Mahle pistons and cylinders.
Heads have 46 intake and 40 exhaust.
The Zeniths are configured similar to Webers and have the emission circuit eliminated.
The engine looks tired on the outside when I first purchased it. It was used for
about 20,000 miles in a VW Vanagon project for the fellow I Purchased it from.
He's a fellow 914 racer down in Texas. He was going to put it in his
vintage racer but decided to stay 4 cyl. He was happy in his class. Didn't want to deal with different specs and rules that the six would entail. Besides he has
a 356 project looming. Been on the phone and email a couple times with him.
Good guy. He's waiting for me to fire this thing up as well!
So it's sort of warming up here. Did a little but necessary project today.
Late start, wasn't in the mood to weld. Took care of the oil tank today.
Cleaned up, prepped, primered & painted. Prolly help Dave this week further
his. Hershey closing in.
Cool sounds like a nice engine with great mods,you will get good power with the carbs,the dizzy is from memory used on the "S" there were 3 types used over the years of that model which were all 2 litre motors 001, 003 and 006.
The dizzy you have has a fairly aggressive advance curve but was made to work with carbs however ,but the ''S'' had aggressive cams to suit,had a friend with one (68 ''S ") and he said the power came on late like an old 2 stroke motocrosser he said it was a very quick car on the open road.
Do you have stock cams?,what spec was the motor to start with?
I just guessing cause I'am the late stages of final tune with my zeniths but you would have 32mm vents,55-60 idles and mains around 130-135 or at least close,you will certainly have the setup to run the larger vents with your valve size.
Nice stock oil tank good score,mine has an PITA leak at the suction hose thread no matter how tight I do it up it leaks,only had it out 3 times so Iam fairly quick @ it now .
Keep up the good work on your car ok.
Dean, I wish I could say E cams but alas it's a T cam.
It started life with a magnesium case with hi-comp Forge-true Pistons with crank and rods from a 2.7.
It was a 2.5L essentially. Then it was rebuilt as the 2.4 with aluminum case.
with 2.7 crank & Rods, and then the 2.4 Mahle P&C with the Zeniths to suit.
Thanks for the info on Zeniths and distributor.
Keep at Dean I know you'll tame the oil leak!
All good,you are on the right track without me sticking my nose in ,however,we have same coloured car,both our engines came from a VW bus,and we have same coloured engine fan ,we are miles apart but maybe not .
my brother in the South Pacific!
Heheh that is funny!
Been a while. Time to update.
Removed both front suspension spindle/brake/strut assemblies. They will be replaced by
the 911 assemblies I renewed earlier.
I was also able to get on with the welding. First up was a small area on the left inner wheel well, beginning of the left long. It was right at the corner where it gets pelted with debris and water.
My goal is to get some welding done every week. See what outside influences will disrupt that! .
This evening, welded all my "ventilation" holes in the firewall.
Holes were for previous harnesses and electrical "clothes lines" as my bud Dave
termed them. Heheh. All wires will now be routed properly through tunnel.
Not the best pics but I'm pleased with my amateur work.
The smell of seam sealer burning is quite distinctive.
Hope to work on "timing" access door for firewall soon.
Getting the little things done while Dave finishes his car.
I'll need his assistance taking the trailing arm suspension console out.
He has a "buck" to form the additional metal I'll need to fix that area.
Well after watching a decent Monaco F1 race,
headed into garage to get dirty. I'm taping Indy for later and
to have a . I'm gonna need it after playing with the welder.
I'm slowly improving. I have a lot of admiration for you guys doing it so well.
Trunk hole had to be made even larger cause there was a nice mix of filler and steel combined. Yeah and filler doesn't weld so well. Stinks like hell to. The metal was very thin in this area. I'm guessing because of previous repair and grinding away of the steel.
So here is what was done today.
I had a very nice phone call recently with Keith Von-Laws,
we were discussing my welding skills or lack of.
I've been working with a mig welder machine that is prolly over 20 yrs old.
Keith (who has welded for a living) was noticing a few things when checking out my
build. The settings on my welder may no longer be what it says on the
rotating dials. He suggested a "newer", If not , new welder.
Keeping in mind we have budgets. Also discussed what settings would be used for
difference situations. Talked about this also with my bro Dave.
All in agreement that a newer one could make life a wee bit easier.
I'm going to try and pick up an Eastwood model that will not kill the budget.
Looking forward to see if this helps me improve. Need a refill on the mig bottle anyway
I'll treat it to a new machine.
Thanks Keith for the pointers and encouragement.
Dave did say that with the new welder he was able to make noticeable
cleaner work. Thus improving the skills. Practice,practice right? Thanks Dave.
Having the right tools should help. Stay tuned.
Grinder skills will improve with time but blend down a biy more and it won't look as apparent of a repair area. I teach this for a living at the college level..
Finish with a blending wheel or a softpack with 120 grit.
Thanks, Ben. Appreciate the feedback. I do need to get more supplies. I'm
Finding out how much more I need the more I'm getting into repairing the
metal. This is all new territory for me.
So grind welds down "better",then flap disc.
Is that better than using a wire wheel when cleaning up the welds?
Ok so not much gonna get done over the next couple of weeks.
Family vacation time. Heading out west to see some of the National Parks including Yellowstone & Bryce as well as the Grand Canyon. So...
Forgot to share this neat silencer I obtained. Can't wait to hear it. NOS! Pretty neat.
May not make the greatest HP gains but I thought it be cool.
Thank you Ben. Going to head to the local hardware store and get some supplies.
Get to some finishing work tonite. I'll post pic, hopefully see improvements.
As you said, it takes time. Hopefully my skills will be improving.
Thank you again.
Go Dion - You're making good progress (unlike some of us...)
LOVE that exhaust! And that advert is very cool. It's great to have those sorts of goodies to go along with the parts.
Progress is a strong word Chris! Hehehe
Thanks though. It be nice to button this car by
the challenge's allotted time. But....
Yeah I grabbed the silencer cause of its rarity.
I've only seen one on a racing 911. So I thought it was cool.
The fella in Holland could only give me an estimate on decibels
and HP changes. It is literally NOS. A neat find.
Ok per Bens advice. Obtained some flap discs. Trying to correct my sins. Welded some pin holes and reground, then flapdisc the area again. No one will see the amateur job but it's giving me practice. This patch will get cut open again for the snorkel tube.
At least it's a rust free and solid area. Not the prettiest.
For your viewing pleasure and critiquing:
Heeding the advice of the experienced on this board, I went back to my trunk floor repair. It improved a little. I'll need some body filler to smooth out for better aesthetics
and then paint. I know it gets covered by the mat and carpet. My concern is being watertight. I do like summer but working with the safety equipment on when it's 85F and
90% humidity , whew! A new appreciation for those that do this for a living.
Dion - It's hard to tell from the pics but it looks like you may have the repair piece not quite aligned / in level. It looks like you're ending up with a step where your weld is.
I know I've got it "right" when I can use a 1/4" grinding wheel to knock down the majority of the weld bead and not get into the parent material of either side.
I use the grinder to get close then hit it with a 2" or 3" abrasive wheel on an air angle grinder (depending on the available clearance) to take it almost to the parent material level.
If I have the room, I then do 80 grit on a d/a sander. If no room, 100 grit on the 2"/3".
On the water tight: get a powerful light and shine it on one side of the weld while viewing from the other side. You'll see pinholes where there are, well... pinholes!
buzz them closed and check again til they're all gone.
And remember: It's only metal!
Keep up the great work.
Chris, you are correct. Slowly getting there. Yes I have a halogen work lamp under the car shining up. Pinholes revealed themselves. Closed them, found another after I hit the area with some primer. Yep it's only metal. I'll still need to address it. But it's way better than my previous attempt. Thanks for the encouraging words.
Rescuing an early bumper. Rusty backside. Sandblasted, some flap disc work. Rust encapsulater from Eastwood. Then some paint. Chrome side is.... well it's better than
my scratched and dented one. This one has a few dimples but less obvious than my previous bumper. Took a buffer to it. It's a 10 footer. Good for my driver. It has built in
Looks nice way better then what I had ..
Looking good, Dion!
And slightly hijacking but: I'm with you on "driver quality". I plan to drive my car, do an occasional track day, park it near other vehicles, even leave it outside sometimes.
I look at some of the fantastically wonderful work being done by folks like 914dave (and his helpers!) and wonder if I'd ever really want something that nice. I'd be worried sick about every little thing. Heck, just working on my car with the new seat in it is nerve wracking.
It's also a convenient excuse for not spending a ton on paint!
Sorry to distract but this is just my way of supporting you in not obsessing about a bumper that isn't perfect!
Keep on posting - you're helping keep me motivated.
Chris your too funny man! I have to agree. Mine is a driver for sure.
I'll never have the level of finish some of these builds have because....
Yes I'd prolly be paranoid! I told Dave that first rock chip is gonna hurt
real bad. Heheheh Hell I get nervous about of his tools in the garage near
I'll be getting back to welding shortly. Like melting the metal.
Chris and Dion, enough talk about stone chips!!!! Hahaha
Rear "boot" repair part 2
Went back to rear trunk repair to seal up pin holes from welding. Upon grinding more metal away found some more weak metal. Repairs ensued.
Cut, removed and replaced the original patch panel.
Followed that with an adjacent area repair. Used "all metal" for the pinholes I could not
seal up. Still working on sanding technique. But it's a trunk floor. Not concours worthy
but rust free and strong. I'll add seam sealer later when the primer dries. Working on smoothing the bottom of this area next.
Primer & seam sealer for trunk patch area. Topside and muffler side.
Onwards and upwards. Slowly getting the hang of this.
Unbelievable how many items one needs to purchase to complete certain tasks.
Didn't really know how many grades of sandpaper existed until I entered
this realm of bodywork. It's far from the best repair.
Constantly learning from experience of what is proper and what was a bad decision as most things in life. One obvious lesson is be patient!!! Don't rush things.
Thanks for looking in.
Ok here's an update for August. Obviously not going to make it for the
deadline of 9-14. I must admit I have been a bit distracted as I just sold
my 1992 VW GTi of which I owned since new on BaT. So that will fund the rest of this
resto. Sad to see it go but I can't afford to maintain a fleet. Especially with my daughter in college. Ok I digress.
I worked on the left long that had a hairline crack in it and also a hole that was adjacent to the seat rail on drivers side rear. Trying to heed advice from the experts here.
I'm getting there! Slowly but getting there.
I ground the welds down and then smoothed them a bit with the "all metal" aluminum
"bondo". Will coat with primer next.
After the work on Sat. had a visit from Dave (914Dave) on Sunday.
Hopefully the good karma from his car will transfer to my U-boat.
He needed a "more flat" floor than his garage had to set up camber/caster measurements.
Before he goes to a final setting at a "pro" shop.
His car is stunning.
that's awesome; what size wheels/tires in the rear?
Hey Joseph, 225/50/15. 8 up front, 9 in the back.
Daves rims are repops from Group4 of the Campagnolo rims.
Just like the Lancia Stratos ran. They're very,very cool.
Right so Build off challenge is on the simmer. I actually feel less
pressure working on this car now.
Changed gear from body work to working on mechanical
bits. First up removing rear brake lines and "ABS" device.
Will send that bugger of to PMB for an overhaul along with the
front S calipers.
This evening removed front control arms to replace all the bushings
and give it a good cleanup. The rust that poured from the torsion tubes, unreal.
Makes no sense to have fresh brakes and lines and not freshen the front end.
Getting those arms are a bugger. Took the whole assembly out
and used the "heavy" lift to keep all still while a nice sized hammer
helped tap out the arms from cross member. Felt good to make mechanical progress.
Yes correct you switch jobs to something else for a while and you come back to the other better focused....has always worked for me.
I prepped and painted the steering rack crossbar. Also cleaned up the rack & master cylinder area.
Just received back my reconditioned A-arms and bushings as well as new swaybar droplink from Elephant. Also picked up new CV/Axles and rear control arm bushings from Tangerine.
While probing a “tiny” area of perforation on the left front fender; a nice piece popped
right off. Pure bondo. Ok another area to get sorted and it will.
But first to get started on the rear console that Chris (Tygaboy) provided.
Always enjoyable removing spotwelds so that will be my life after work for the
next couple of nights.
Dion - Great to see you're making progress! It's been a while since you posted and I was getting a little worried. Glad to see it was all for naught.
ANd maybe we should have a little side bet on if you'll get your console in before I get the Tangerine raised pick ups installed! I'll take anything to help me get going on that.
And no complaining - I have to remove BOTH consoles!
Keep on keepin' on!
Ok so winter is setting in on Pennsylvania.
I don’t have my heat set up in garage yet therefore no
welding as of now.
So went ahead with some small projects I could do in the basement.
Placed the gauges in the gauge frame. I modified
a center console for a fuel gauge to have a home since the “6”
oil press/temp gauge is on the dash now. Obtained a really cool
warning lamp like the 917,935’s had. I still wanted a low fuel lamp.
So the yellow will glow when we are low! Should work out nice.
That warning light is cool, ultra rare, and likely worth many hundreds of dollars. Impossible to find these.
And a muffler coming this week to play with..
It’s not as bad weather wise in PA as it is in New England but it’s cold enough to
keep me in the basement workshop.
I started taking the suspension console Chris (Tygaboy) supplied me with apart.
Porsche did a nice job spot welding this one together. Thanks Chris it is so much better
than what’s on the car now.
Dave came over last weekend and took some measurements for the buck and to make
a pattern for the kick up to the console.
First I removed the overlay reinforced steel pieces.
Nice work! I know what a job getting those console pieces apart is. I'm in awe that you were able to get those metal reinforcement gussets off so cleanly. They still look useable. Those are some nice pieces you got from Chris.
Appreciate the compliment Brent.
Yeah that was time consuming. Chris certainly came up aces on such a
clean piece. Very well pleased. When the thermometer decides to
pop above freezing I can begin to dismantle the four cylinder mounts and
begin removing the old console once Dave and I get the jig in place and
can connect the “long/kick up” piece.
Looking really good, Dion!
And I demand you not paint over my Sharpie writing. I took a lot of extra time to do that excellent parts identification documentation!
So just finished up removing 4 cylinder engine mount on the
drivers side. What a true mess this side of longitudinal this is.
Thankfully for Chris’ part of console and the parts from
Restoration Design all can be remedied.
Tiring and tedious job removing mount.
I wasn’t able to save it. I hope to save the right mount
in case someone would need it. It is in far better shape.
Wow... You've made great progress! Did you make any sort of jig to help align things as you put it all back together? There are a couple key measurements and a few posts that cover all that. I assume you're all over that sort of thing...
Keep up the great work!
I haven’t freed up the existing left console yet.
The car is still with its door braces intact.
Dave has a jig/measurements plan before I tear that apart.
Thanks for the input and push to persevere!
Moved on to Right engine mount. Challenging to
not destroy it upon removal. A cutting torch I reckon would make
quick work of it but I’d prolly set my car on fire!
I’ll post a pic of mount if any one would need of it pm me and I can take a few more pics of it for you.
The top of the mount was tied into engine shelf/long as well as 4 spot welds.
Totally unlike the left. You can see in the pics how the right side was repaired
back in the early nineties when I had a pro shop do the hell hole and reposition
my suspension so the right wheel would not have EXTREME exaggerated camber!
That’s when I learned of the hell hole troubles.
Looks like they did their best at the time. No rust.
But not factory like :-/ So I’ll get to welding up the right side deficiencies hopefully
Having recently removed my motor mounts I can vouch for what a pig of a job it is. Well done!
Saturday’s project while listening and occasionally glancing at the 24hr at Daytona:
Addressed the hole in the floor that made me give my 914 the U-boat moniker.
It’s not pretty, no finish sanding or primer yet.
Just wanting to fill that split. It must have occurred due to an improperly
adjusted jack. That whole was filled with pure undercoating when I was removing it from the interior floor.
Closed the holes on the console piece that were under the extra steel plates.
Those plates are for strengthening the console.
I do enjoy the welding. Hopeful I will get more proficient the more I do. And there’s plenty to do!
Looking good Dion!
Attempted cleaning up the right engine mount area. Had a few holes to weld up
and a rather large one along the edge of the console. Some small holes were from the
spot welds holding the mount. Making progress.
Still need to reattach the brake line/hose bracket. Wanted to get some
primer on the bare metal. I’m getting flash rust showing up. It’s been raining and the
garage is a bit humid.
Out of work early today to take advantage of good warm weather, tackled a small job.
I can finally tic that off the punch list.
Made a panel for the access panel in the firewall. Using a firewall provided by Garold
I cut a piece out oversized so it could lay on top of the contours of the existing firewall
in the car enabling me to use two sets of rubber weatherstripping.
One will surround the cut out and another will wrap around the larger cover.
So noise and any water (unlikely) will be stopped. As well as flames (ha, never know with carbs). I still need to weld the nuts to the engine side. Take care of that this weekend. Cheers all.
Just a minor suggestion: you may want to round the corners of the opening in the firewall. That'll eliminate the likelihood of a crack developing in that area.
Keep up the great work and progress and you'll be on the road before you know it.
Thanks Chris. Ok will round the edges. Thanks for the suggestion. Never thought of that happening.
Took Chris advice and rounded the corners slightly of hatch opening.
Welded the nuts on the panel. Primered the cover, wanted to do more but the temps are
dropping quickly so no further primer today. Come on spring!
I need to do this as well.. Need to either find a panel like you did or weld a flange all around..
Ben, a panel might be a good idea for your /6 conversion parts
So for a change of pace and not having a lot of free time for sanding/painting I did a
a small project for a bit of fun. I modified the horn bracket to accept a banjo horn like
a few of the real GT ran. I was lucky to stumble upon this one for a
reasonable price (to me). The prices on these horns can be ridiculous. Found it on a Sweden based car parts site. Tested and functions as it supposed to. It certainly sounds different from the stock horn.
I need to modify the “flat” area on the chrome bumper where the rubber spacer meets the body. I will make a slot on the bumper bracket for the trumpet end to slide through. Shouldn’t be too bad to do. Wel’ll see :-)
I'm going to be hitting that same spot on both sides of mine soon. I think I'll sit back and wait while you show me how it's done first.
It will be extremely nice to wrap this project up and drive it out your way Brent.
To cruise about Big Sky country would be awesome. I only had a taste of it
exiting Yellowstone near Roosevelt’s Arch.
Be more than happy to let ya have a go!
Dion - Your engine is BEAUTIFUL!
Those are interesting cam covers what are they from?
Ben it’s a 1967 aluminum case.
Great, now I can be more nervous. Thanks Mark hehehe.
Heheheh sweet. Didn’t know they’ve escalated. I’m trying to cash out with Mark right now on the Zeniths! Heheh. Fingers crossed Mark!
Looks like 8-9k for a case..
Wow. Well I appreciate that news. I spent 7k originally for the engine,carbs & an oil tank! Thanks Ben. Now the paranoia can set in! Heheheh
Thanks Dean. Yes the clean motor does inspire, as
well as Dave’s completed beauty! I purchased the engine in 2015. I guess before all the 911 speculation took off.
Happy Easter from the guy working on this project.
I worked on the front lower left fender today. What a treat this was.
Made some cardboard templates and then cut my shapes.
Bending the one piece was tricky as I don’t have the proper tools for this so
some pipe of different diameters and a vice helped me shape the curve.
nice work Dion. Keep at it.
Take it from my mistake and make sure your door gaps are still good before you get all that painted. I had to backtrack after having my whole car painted and cut out some extra metal in that spot as it squeezed my door gap down.
I should be installing your old 2056 by end of summer
“I should be installing your old 2056 by end of summer”
That’s good news Joseph! Sorry to hear of the mishap with the doors. Especially after
the paint! Thanks for the reminder.
Send some pics would love to see it.
Ok gentlemen need advice. So my flares were welded on, not in the ideal way.
They used an overlap weld instead of butt welds. Removing and starting over is not on the table. Although that’s the ultimate answer. I’d like to prevent further rust. I have some surface rust below the thinly applied undercoating. I wire wheeled off the undercoating. I was thinking of using an acid etch and spraying it in all the seams then
use a rust “encapsulate” type spray and then prime/paint then undercoat.
Any other “ chemical suggestions for getting in those overlapping seams?
So had a suggestion to use the Eastwood Internal Frame coating.
I had that on hand. This stuff creeps into crevices so it made sense.
After washing it down with the “ Fast Etch” and cleanup with pre paint prep,
I hit it with the “frame coating” then coated with rubberized undercoating.
Didn’t get to the welding today. Drying time of the chemicals ate into weld time.
That’s for another weekend. Thanks for looking in!
What kind of metal etch are you using? I have some areas I would like to apply this to on my car and I have never used an etch applied by hand that converts rust. Please share.
As near as I can tell, Fast Etch is comparable to Ospho or any other phosphoric acid etcher/converter/protectant. I'm using KleanStrip brand form Home Depot now that Jasco discontinued theirs. Same as Ospho but cheaper.
Looking good Dion!
For the Fast Etch brand once it’s cleaned off with acetone or pre paint prep
cleaner it can be primered over.
Having never done it this way on my paint jobs prior should this be applied to all bare metal then scotch brite and spray primer?
No worries Ben, and thanks again for the muffler bracket & the straps info!
Plenty more bodywork to be done.
I told Dave I’m gonna have to get the whole car resprayed.
In for a pound in for a penny! The paint job is over 14 years now, it always
had it’s blemishes. Chance to rectify all that.
Maybe have it done by Octeenerfest.....
Dave .... Hehehehe
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)