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Posted by: N_Jay Oct 19 2016, 09:39 PM

Wondering when a core engine is worth picking up just because it is cheap.

So in dollars; about what is a running (or near running) 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0 worth out of the car?
Assume nothing special, just a normal not dead, but not fresh engine.

With vs. without all the FI parts?

Posted by: N_Jay Oct 20 2016, 07:45 AM

QUOTE(N_Jay @ Oct 19 2016, 10:39 PM)

Wondering when a core engine is worth picking up just because it is cheap.

So in dollars; about what is a running (or near running) 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0 worth out of the car?
Assume nothing special, just a normal not dead, but not fresh engine.

With vs. without all the FI parts?

Posted by: McMark Oct 20 2016, 08:03 AM

$250 or less for a 2.0
Free for a 1.7/1.8

Posted by: mbseto Oct 20 2016, 08:16 AM

Last few months in the classifieds:

I have a 2.0 low mileage stock engine... 2500.00

complete, running, 1.8L. also including the original
engine from my '75 with this deal. It is a 1.8L and
has been disassembled
Looking for $1,200 for everything.

1.8 Long Block - $150 OBO

914 1.7 liter engine, $500 is what i am asking for it.

2.0 liter engine with or without the heads and carbs.
$1,800 for everything

1975 2.0 FI Engine Would like 700$ for it all.

2.0 motor w/sideshift...bars axels etc., The whole drive unit
SOLD (complete for $1100, FYI)

1974 1.8 Engine
don't have a clutch or flywheel, no intakes throttle body.
Only whats pictures. would like $300

1975 2.0L Engine complete with FI, $1200

Posted by: Mueller Oct 20 2016, 08:18 AM

From free to $1000?

Sometimes people cannot give away motors, lots of times it has to due to location and not wanting to ship (I'm one of those people that don't want to deal with shipping a motor)

I paid $500 for my 1.8 that was a "runner" just didn't run very well , turns out it had a camshaft issue. Luckily not the end of the world and something I don't mind too much.

Posted by: mbseto Oct 20 2016, 09:05 AM

If there's not much buying/selling, it's all on a case-by-case basis.

Posted by: cary Oct 20 2016, 09:15 AM

I just paid $125 for a 1.7. But it has a flywheel and FI.

Posted by: N_Jay Oct 20 2016, 09:34 AM

Thanks all.
Getting the asking price is easy, and most of the posts here have a lot more detail than you typically get on craigslist and such.

Seems that under $100 is probably worth the parts and somewhere north of $500 it better be solid (or have all of the FI)?

Does that seem about right?

Posted by: McMark Oct 20 2016, 10:58 AM

1.7/1.8, you're basically buying a case.
914 2.0 you're buying a case, crank, rods, heads (which are usually either bad or worse).
Bus 2.0 you're buying a case, crank and rods.

But that's just considering the long-block. 2.0 tins have value. FI has some minor value. Good fans have value. 1.7 rockers have value.

Posted by: Philip W. Oct 20 2016, 11:08 AM

so many variables and unknowns-
if your motor is complete and documented compression and leak down numbers, mileage, FI complete stock and running that would make a BIG difference - leaks? etc - then you might get $1500-2000 - but depends on current demand and how urgent your buyer is- but unless its a current documented rebuild with all the above(which could cost you $5k and better( heck new heads could be more than $2500 by themselves!) well then it seems like $1500 would be a great deal. -
-

Posted by: N_Jay Oct 20 2016, 11:43 AM

Thanks,
I am actually looking the other way.
I have come across a couple of engines and trying to draw the line between;
a) So cheap it is worth buying almost sight unseen
and
b) So much that unless you hear it run, and really need it you should walk away.

Posted by: N_Jay Oct 20 2016, 11:57 AM

A couple of other questions.

How different or usable are engine tins from 1.8 and 1.7 engines?

How "bad" are 1.7 and 1.8 (and bus) heads.
I understand the 2.0 three stud heads are preferred, but (this is going back a lot of years) I thought if you were having them cut for larger valves and ported at all, there was not that much difference?

Posted by: McMark Oct 20 2016, 12:26 PM

1.7/1.8 tins have the spark plug holes in a different location. Otherwise they're the same. You can drill new holes and weld in plugs to make them like 2.0 tins. But It's not really cost effective, at least in my opinion.

The differences in the heads are well documented. I'm not going to type it all out again. Do some research. It's not just a valve difference. They're all different castings.

Posted by: gms Oct 20 2016, 01:31 PM

You will find that 914s rusted in half around here before they hit 100,000 miles so our engine supply is pretty good. If you are in need 2 local guys (Brad Mayuer and Garold Shaffer) have plenty on hand as well as tons of parts.

Posted by: N_Jay Oct 20 2016, 01:41 PM

QUOTE(gms @ Oct 20 2016, 02:31 PM)

You will find that 914s rusted in half around here before they hit 100,000 miles so our engine supply is pretty good. If you are in need 2 local guys (Brad Mayuer and Garold Shaffer) have plenty on hand as well as tons of parts.

So you are saying not to just pick one up because it is cheap?

Posted by: McMark Oct 20 2016, 02:07 PM

This is such a roundabout thread.

If you're buying something just because it's cheap then it better be a 914 2.0. If it's a 1.7/1.8 then it's never cheap enough to be worth it just because.

That being said, regardless of how cheap it is I bet you can find something far better to buy that you can actually USE on your car rather than stocking your garage with crap.

Posted by: N_Jay Oct 20 2016, 02:28 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 20 2016, 03:07 PM)