Hey guys (and gals). I know there are some older threads on this, but I am looking for a car lift that can go ~40" lift, doesn't need wooden ramps (for a 914) and doesn't break the bank. This Atlas lift from greg smith seems to come with shipping for $1745. Does anyone have this lift or something similar?
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-EM06-Portable-6-000-lb-Mid-Rise-Scissor-Lift
Attached image(s)
I keep looking at this kind because I want to be able to get to the center of the car better. (For other cars.)
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift
I agree wth N_Jay's suggestion. I have a neighbor who has had that lift for several years sans any issues. The more open base is a plus.
As for Atlas in general, I've pleased with my two post lift.
I have actually upped my looking to the 7000 LB lifts since the GL320 would be pushing the limits of the 6000 LB lift.
Next house is getting a tall garage! (More likely a separate working garage)
Thanks guys, it does look like you have much better access. My car is pretty low, do the ramps get in the way when you are working on the car? i.e. are you always tripping over them, etc...?
On the recommendations from some folks here, I bought a used Atlas 6000 over the summer for $900. Then built a couple of ramps from 2x10s (on top and a ripped 2x6 underneath) so I can park over it in the garage. When the car is in the air, I can just move the ramps out of the way if needed.
JustinP71, just cut a hole in the cement.......Easy afternoon job, nothing to trip over. Mine has a cover I can drive over or raise as an additional 4 x 8 work area. Best, Mark
Just another shot, 914 on wood dolly on top of wood lift cover. Was great at getting to all the tough spots before repaint. Mark
Harpo, I did have a friend to help....but the process went like this. Rent cement saw( the one I got was new with new blade) it cut the 6 bag mix almost as fast as cutting wood, could not believe. Then dug the sand out, down about 16 inches. The cement pour is a two step process, first pour base making sure it is level (my floor has a pitch to the floor drain). Then next morning framed up sides with a little rebar into the base. Second pour. Done.
I just used bag cement, and a little cement mixer that fit in the trunk of my wives Passat. If interested I can find pictures. NOTE, cutting cement is very dirty/dusty. I visqueened all sides of the garage off and had the hose/water going while cutting the cement. OK it took two days. still best thing I've ever done. Mark
My apologies to JustinP for the slight de-railment off the original lift in question.
What about this open scissor lift. Yeah its like $700 more, but you have better access to the center for other vehicles if you need to ?
No I don't have one just been eyeing them since they announced free shipping.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Kwik-Bay-7-000-LB-Mid-Rise-Lift
Sorry about the hijack Justin and thanks Mark for the photos. How thick is your new slab? It looks like you also cut a slot for your hydraulic line.
David
The old cement floor was only 3 1/2 inches thick with fiberglass imbedded, the new slab was 6 inches with a little rebar. Yes, sorry Justin, off the tracks we went.......mark PS with the scissor lift being lower in the floor, I can use the truck extensions for the lift making it possible to replace exhaust systems on newer VW Bettles and Jettas......for the Porsche's no problems.
Did you tie the old cement to the new cement using rebar and holes in your new cement?
Thanks again
DAvid
Hi David, no, no need for that. The base for the lift (slab) is so stable, maybe five times needed. The six inch poor on compacted sand is enough to lift a commercial truck. I can give you a little schematic of the cement layout if you want. Best, Mark
Maybe we should do a group buy or something to get a price break ?
I've been shopping for a used one for a year. I'm in the $1k range and they're not popping up in the DFW market.
The PIT looks like a good idea ... but hard work!
Hope this works, again this schematic is for my BenPak, but is the same size as most. Best, Mark
Justinp71, back to your question. Looked over the Atlas site...It just seams odd to have the lift going in the other direction in regards to the weight of the car either being in the front or rear, lift would not extend to front or rear for stability. Just FYI, Mark
Thanks for the input guys! I have some thinking to do. I don't know how well my original option will work as I think you need another 1 1/2" to fit in the lifting blocks. I'll have to do some measuring.
I like the hole in the floor idea, but that might be a little too much work for me right now.
As a follow up to my own question regarding a GB. I contacted Greg Smith equipment and inquired about it. I think if we had a central location where GS could unload all the lifts at one place we would have more bargaining power but I know everyone is all over the U.S. When I told him that, GS only able to offer $50 off for the lift, better than nothing right ?
If anyone is interested PM me and I can provide the contact information for GS.
Now the question is which one, after thinking maybe I don't need the open center one for the additional $$, how often would I drop an exhaust or really do a trans job I ask myself. So I am leaning towards the MR06 and TD6MR I believe the difference is you get a set of truck adapters for the TD6MR, chime in if I am wrong ?
As far as installation goes, I would need to hire electrician to upgrade the garage breaker and ensure the wiring can handle the current, anything else I miss to consider ??
Thanks
I agree that $50 is better than nothing. However, did they give you an idea of what it would be if they dropped them all off in one location? Perhaps that discount might make it feasible to them have them shipped from there, to the purchaser's home, and save even more? I was thinking drop them all at a freight facility where they could then be re-shipped....
For me, the $50 would not get me to buy right now. I am still a year or so away from doing my garage.
Shameless distraction: I just dropped some decent money to do area drains, french drains and tight lines around my home. .5 acre, so not real bad, but that would have done my garage remodel, including the in-ground lift and porcelain tile floor, for sure. On the upside now, when it is pouring here, my wife is laughing at me as I stand in the rain looking at the water flow into the big cement drain that was installed in this property, along with the other homes on my street, when they were built. It really is cool to see all that water being handled correctly instead of pooling on the property.
I also have a mid rise lift.. Ive owned it for a couple years now but haven't used it yet...
I built stepped ramps so there is clearance to adjust and lift the car BUT need to make the "centers between the wheels removable" after the car is in proper position..
But, these things are VERY heavy and not as easily moved as one would expect...
Thanks...
Steve
Per Garrold's recommendation, I also purchased one from Greg Smith Equipment a little over a year ago. Making the ramps was easy and mine can be easily moved away if needed. I just wish I had gotten one years ago!
I got my TD6MR lift from Greg Smith Equip. last week and had it delivered to work. Thanks again “porsche913b” for getting us the $50 discount.
I used the forklift to load it into my trailer and backed it into the garage. I used my tractor to pull it out of the trailer enough to get three jacks under the skid and lower it to the floor.
I then used a steel bar to slide it slightly off the skid and then used the jacks to lift it off of the skid.
I built the ramps using one sheet of plywood and two layers of 2x4’s and they are a total of 14’ long. I started with just one layer of 2x4’s but it was just a little too low since my car is lower than shock. At some point I would like to sink it into the garage floor but this will work for now.
As everyone has said previously I really wish I had bought this a long time ago since it works fantastic for my 914.
Unfortunately the arms aren’t long enough to use it on my wife’s 2008 A6 so I am going to have to figure something out to make it work for her car. I didn’t have time to check if it would work for my S5 or Cayman S yet but whatever I figure out for the A6 should work on all of my cars eventually.
Jeff B
That looks like some task I don't have nearly all the resources to move and unpack that thing. I guess it will depend how creative I get. I wonder when they deliver would they have some pallet jack or something so I can drag it in my garage at least.
How do I know if my garage outlets are able to handle the lift. Did you have an electrician buddy check the installation ?
Thanks for follow up Jeff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
consider this alternative - MaxJax - a lot less install work and lifts 48" - easy R&R 914 engine-trans - mine was $1900 delivered
- and - it unbolts & gets out the the way when you want the space for other things - no forklifts required
you can come look at mine & try it at zip 95635 (40 miles away from Justin)
I do not want to hi-jack this thread, I think it is suitable info/questions related to the topic.
Interesting post, since I was looking to find info on a tilting lift and wanted to find out if they are suitable for 914's. The ones shown are a bit similair to what I was looking at, but slightly different.
Can we use a small Tilting lift on our 914's ? Or will 914's not like the place on the car they are lifted with this ? Right now I use the donuts to jack up the car, but this would help me a lot if this was possible.
It is a lift like this:
it is really low when 'at rest' and does not take up a lot of space (measurements are in mm, millimeters)
a similair thing in action (nice relaxing music in the background)
https://youtu.be/vQT1-EibbbE
I understand there are better alternatives than this, just wanted to hear if this was usable or not because of the way it lifts the car.
Thanks for your advice or opinion.
Wiring is just 110, 20amp breaker using #12 wire with ground. Petty standard for most garages, or easy to run external with schedule 40 pvc over drywall or panelling. Best, Mark
A small bump to see if you have an opinion on my post above
" Can we use a small Tilting lift on our 914's ?"
It might be a great christmas present in case it is suitable for 914's.
thanks for your feedback.
How trusty are you of the Max Jack's floor bolts? Are they held down with compression style floor studs? How many are there for each side? the two post lifts always give me bad feelings thinking that the posts would cave in toward each other. Unfounded?
There is another alternative to the scissor and two-post lifts - they're both limited to about 48-50" lift height. For a little more you can go with a single-post lift. It's portable and can be moved around the garage with built-in dolly. I haven't tried the 914 yet, but I suspect I'll need some 2x ramps to drive it up onto to clear the 4.5" base.
[attachmentid=586326]
I just had my BendPak mid-rise, flush-mount scissor lift delivered. I expect that within the next two weeks we will be cutting the concrete slab to excavate, form, rebar and pin our new concrete so we have the pit to install the lift into. The floor will be porcelain tiled to complete the job.
This is tied to a full garage remodel with new cabinets. The cabinets will include one section for just the lift hydraulics and motor. All lines will run through a PVC chase in the floor, wall or cabinet. Should result in a clean garage and still allow for service, removal or replacement of the lines if there is ever a problem.
Once we start laying this out and cutting concrete, I will be taking photos and posting them. I am so happy to be able to do this. I am tired of kneeling or sitting on the floor to play with my cars. Hard on the old body.
It seems that the pit would be a constant " lookout " when moving around on a castered stool....
This is what I decided on.
EZ Car Lift, been a great help, added the wheel kit, now this is portable.
No modifications to the garage , uses heavy duty electric drill. Even has a drive over kit for lowered cars.
When down, the lift will have about a 3/8" reveal around it and the lifting "pads" will be absolutely flush with the floor. I do not think we will have any pit-hazard issues. But, I am old so you never know....
Watching this
New garage will need a lift of some sort.
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/d/auto-truck-lift/6392403485.html
This is similar to the Ranger Quickjack, but can lift higher for a little more money.
By using the rubber pads and shorter cross members I was able to support the pan with great access to make repairs.
Light weight and flexible configurations.
when stacking cars, always remember that 914's sometimes leak oil.
Public Service Announcement to ALL!!!!!!!!!
Cutting into your garage slab is a great idea in most situations to make room from your lifts (i.e. older home). However, in certain parts of the country many newer homes, within 10-15 years, are built on Post Tension Slab foundation to eliminate movement and cracking. You will find these types of slabs mainly where seismic considerations must be taken into consideration. If you saw into a Post Tension Slab and cut a cable it could very dangerous (like death) if the cable comes out of the slab during the process. Know what you are doing if you have a newer home and check with someone who if familiar with home construction in your area.
Other than that.....I too have thought about the idea and it makes perfect sense to me!
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