It's an easy adjustment and I've done it many times but with the last few (even with a new TPS) it seems that when the car isfirst started & running cold, I can just touch the throttle & move it ever so slightly & that's when the car wants to quit running. If I go past that point it will pick up & run.
When I adjust the TPS by the Bird article, it says to move one more hash mark after the ohm meter jumps to zero. Sometimes the needle jumps when I'm between hash marks. So, do you move to the next hash mark making only a 1/2 a move or do you move past that closest mark to the next one making it a 1 1/2 hash mark movement?
Anyone ever experiment with their movements (on the TPS)
.......b
OK, so, just got back from a long drive and discovered after it warms it idles at 1500. Usually, this is saying a vacuum leak (but there ain't none)! So, I step on the gas maybe an 1/8th and the idle goes down to where it's supposed to be (900/1000). This is telling me the TPS is miss adjusted, eh?
Hopefully this is what it is cuz it's, basically, new.
....b
QUOTE (Bruce Allert @ Apr 21 2005, 05:42 PM) |
OK, so, just got back from a long drive and discovered after it warms it idles at 1500. Usually, this is saying a vacuum leak (but there ain't none)! This is telling me the TPS is miss adjusted, eh? ....b |
Curt, the CHT & the TPS is new. Why would giving it slight throttle cause the idle to go down? You'd think it would go up, right? This isn't making sense
I've checked the AAR many times & it's closed... tight.
If I turn the car off then restart it, it idles at 900-1000. Go out & drive it & the idle goes up.
All components numbers match (CHT, ECU, MPS, Dizzy).
....b
Do you have a little slack in the accelerator cable? Did you ohm test the new CHT? I've thrown brand new CHT's in the trash. The quality of CHT's doesn't seem to be as good as they used to be.
Yup, got slack. I'll test the CHT. Could be a crappy one like you said. Besides, they're cheap (thank God)!
...........b
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