Got me heads back from Jeff "Sixnotfour" Hines
They came out GREAT and I can now start putting back together my 2.2
Attached image(s)
Had a broken exhaust stud replaced.. That was the deciding factor for the topend rebuild.
Attached image(s)
Now the fun begins,
can't wait to see it in.
KT
This is the car I am putting the SIX in
I swapped out the Dials for Fuchs I have been polishing them when I need a break from the engine rebuild
Attached image(s)
Nice time sert install, flat, flush, must have been done on a bridgeport or mill. Good work. Make sure you use some anti/never seize on the exhaust threads. I use copper nuts, but have headers, They come form Wurth 12mm and flanged, they work perfect.
Erik
Kerry,
Looks great. If you need an extra set of hands send me an email.
Larry
QUOTE (Thorshammer @ Apr 23 2005, 06:01 PM) |
Nice time sert install, flat, flush, must have been done on a bridgeport or mill. Good work. Make sure you use some anti/never seize on the exhaust threads. I use copper nuts, but have headers, They come form Wurth 12mm and flanged, they work perfect. Erik |
Are those side markers? Got a closser picture of them?
Getting there. Not bad for the Sunday after Hershey
Heads and Cam towers are ON!!
Attached image(s)
need some 935 rocker seals?
QUOTE (TimT @ Apr 24 2005, 03:50 PM) |
need some 935 rocker seals? |
keep up the pix
QUOTE |
Everybody needs 935 seals. biggrin.gif |
How do these mystical 935 seals differ from 911 stuffs?
im a /4 guy i guess
The stock 9eleben had no seals on the rocker shafts.
The 935s did. When rebuilding a 911 motor, it's a good idea to put these in. They will seal up irregularities in the bores that are in put there by ham fisted mechanics like me.
Aaron they arent really mystical at all, the 935 rocker seals are o-rings that fit in the grooves in the rocker shafts.. they are not your normal o-ring though.. the OD is cut flat.
They help those pesky rocker shaft leaks on /6 engines
I have pics.. somewhere LOL
The wrench that rebuilt my 2.7 (rebuilt 9 years previously & sat on a shelf) put case sealant in the rocker bores. Getting that shit out....not to mention the shafts, was a trial....there were involved. The bores were pretty well dinged up when I was done. I ended up "butterflying" the bores, used the 935 seals, and made damn sure the shafts were properly seated.. Hasn't leaked a drop of oil.....from there.
JP, I am considering rebuilding my 3.0. Most people I talk to are trying to scare me away from the idea. I would like to do it as the experience gained by a successful rebuild would end my fears if I every had to dig into it again. Should I try it?
935 seals Sounds like a plan. What are the seal part numbers?
I'll need to take a look at the rocker shafts and see if the PO used them. It may be one of those "While I am there..." things and I'll put them on.
I plan on putting the timing chain housings on and the cams in tonight, after work.
Photos to follow
Looks Sweet!!!
QUOTE (iamchappy @ Apr 25 2005, 04:15 AM) |
JP, I am considering rebuilding my 3.0. Most people I talk to are trying to scare me away from the idea. I would like to do it as the experience gained by a successful rebuild would end my fears if I every had to dig into it again. Should I try it? |
Cool, another six!
WorldPac - calls em rocker shaft orings P/N 911-099-103-52
I am sure some one on East coast has em, if not let me know.
Lookin good
Thanks..
Here is what I did to keep track of the valve train.
ZIP bags for each valve (1I, 1E, 2I, 2E, 3I, 3E..etc)
Might be overkill but better safe the sorry.
Attached image(s)
QUOTE (TimT @ Apr 24 2005, 08:54 PM) |
my way of saying I have a few sets of 935 seals... want some? |
Okay I am doing my Sproket Alignment and using Wayne's book.
The only things I have done to this engine is a basic top-end rebuild. I would have thought this would be correct since I haven't changed anything about this alignment. I kept the two side in seperate containers until they went back on
I am getting a intermediate shaft distance of 52.02'ish (face of case to shaft). My right sprocket comest to 51.06'ish (case to face of sprocket). I did this 4-5 times and they are all very close to each other.
To meet my delta of .25mm I need to get to 51.75'ish which is 3 shims less then I have right now.
Could the engine have ran well fo rthe PO if it was that far off? Mayeb I am missing something here?
Cheers
QUOTE |
Could the engine have ran well fo rthe PO if it was that far off? Mayeb I am missing something here? |
Okay I found out my dizzy is from a "E" (0231159 006) engine and I believe I have a "T" engine. The PO said it was a "T" so I took it at that.
I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams?
The only markings I can see now are the dot and an "03" stamped on the end of the cam.
Cheers
QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 11 2005, 01:02 PM) |
Okay I found out my dizzy is from a "E" (0231159 006) engine and I believe I have a "T" engine. The PO said it was a "T" so I took it at that. I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams? The only markings I can see now are the dot and an "03" stamped on the end of the cam. Cheers |
QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 11 2005, 09:02 AM) |
I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams? |
Well since the engine case numbers were "T" and the PO said they were "T" I assumed ( I know) it was a "T".
I know my cams are timed to the 2.5mm spec right now. So the total lift from closed to full open is 36.25mm.
I'll check that now. Looks like that wors out to be 1.427" for "T" and 1.440 for the "E". Wish me luck
Ah.....just in case you're calibrated in English units, total lift at the valve for the T is .387", .408 for the E per Mr. Anderson's book.
(edit) -.004 lash.
I am getting .379 on the #4 intake and .379 (a bit under .3785) on #1 intake.
Looks like I do not have an "E" cam in there.
the spec book lists those numbers (~36mm) in a big table column labelled "Cam Lift" but i'm having a hard time understanding what that means, exactly - unless it's the total linear distance between the bottom of th sbase circle and the top of the lobe.
the E Exhaust lift (per Anderson) is 0.393" (which could be 0.397" if you didn't account for the 0.004" valve lash). so the "gotta ask" hard questions: are you sure you're on the intake valve, and are you sure you have the Right cam on the right side, and the Left cam on the Left side ?
(not questioning your abilities - but - gotta ask - and if you *did* confuse them - first - you wouldn't be the first, and second - wouldn't you rather know now rather than when the engine wanted to turn backward ?
No problem on the questions.
- I am measuring from the intake valves (the ones on the top)
- I put the "Big V" cam on the left and the " tight V" cam on the right. The Left is 1,2,3 cylinders (Left looking at the fan).
A few vairables.
Lash counts as My edit says above.
The dial indicator must be rock solid.
If it is the long travel type with a straight plunger & about a .150 point, it must be as perpendicular as you can get it to the spring cap or you'll get a bit of cosine error. ......wear on a used cam is gonna effect it also.
I'd say your well with in the probability field (.004), me thinks.
I am using the "Z" tool to hold the dial. Not sure when the dial was last calibrated but it seemed okay and YES I do have a long travel dial. It measures .001 up to 2" of travel.
I'll breakdown the setup and retake the measurements with no valve lash.
Okay I now have .384" with no valve lash, the cam is used so that seems okay for the "T" spec cam.
Looks like my valve lash was .005 before. I guess I need to plan on more drag on the feeler gauge next time.
So since I have a "T" spec cam and a "E" spec dizzy what performance issues will I expect?
Does anyone have a timing mark template for a non-914/6 flywheel? Seems like most people just say to put the two flywheels next to each other and just xfer the marks BUT... I don't have a real 914/6 flywheel to do that with
Cheers
QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 12 2005, 11:14 AM) |
Does anyone have a timing mark template for a non-914/6 flywheel? |
QUOTE |
So since I have a "T" spec cam and a "E" spec dizzy what performance issues will I expect? |
Okay I am working on the Webers this weekend for my 2.2T
The carbs have:
Idle____50
Mains__ 135
Airs ____180
F-tubes__F26
Venturi__32mm
Seems like PMO and other sources like:
Idle____55
Mains__ 125
Airs ____180
F-tubes__F26
Venturi__30mm
I managed to track down some 30mm Vent's BUT what will be the effects of larger mains (too rich?) and smaller idle's ( Lean?).
Cheers
QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 14 2005, 03:05 PM) |
I managed to track down some 30mm Vent's BUT what will be the effects of larger mains (too rich?) and smaller idle's ( Lean?). |
QUOTE |
Does anyone have a timing mark template for a non-914/6 flywheel? |
Thanks
IIRC I have IDA 40's but I'll run out and look. The Carbs were set up for a 2.4 and I am putting them on a 2.2.
Been messing with the float adjustment for the last hour. The tab is SUPER sensitive. I am trying to get the 18mm at he tab and 12.75'ish at the float.. I'll get it but it is a PITA not having the correct float tool.
QUOTE |
The tab is SUPER sensitive |
What's the issue with the tabs, breaking? I one carb set and have one to go.
As you know there are a lot of nuts that hold the carb top on, plus the gasket.
Taking it off and on is a big pain and you really can't check the fuel level in the bowl anyway.
QUOTE |
one carb set and have one to go |
here's a little pic
KT
Attached image(s)
QUOTE (J P Stein @ May 11 2005, 09:28 AM) | ||
Yes. There is enuff diference between the 2 to tell which it is. Ya prolly shoulda done that before you set the timing, but no harm, no foul. I measured a set of suspected T cams with a pair of calipers.....figuring I'd get within .010-.020.... top of lobe to backside minus base circle X 1.5 (I'm told that 1.5 ratio is actully varible by .01 either way due to the actual point of contact rides is about a .08 wide band)...came out with in .003 |
In the world of old used Porsche parts/engines, "things" are not always what they seem.
I pulled apart my 2.4L & found a reduced base circle cam.....humm, whatdaya suppose these numbers mean?
Opened another one & found the oil pump had a hole that corroded thru the case....then patched with some kina' JBweldish stuff. 911 motors are like a box of choclates....
Some of your fellow professional mechanics are HACKS.
the 2,7S i bought (good price, couldn't resist) has at least one Motor Meister rebuild on it. the guy i bought it from said it ran great (as you would expect, but i do trust this guy) although he says it has some leaks and may be pulling some studs (sounds like no inserts...)
i'm expecting quite the chamber of horrors in there when i get it open... we will see, and you will see the results here...
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)