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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Left Side Ignition

Posted by: McMark Nov 25 2016, 11:52 AM

About a year ago I struck a deal with Pete at Restoration Design to start reproducing the 914-6 dash piece. I gave him a discount on a fuel injection system in trade for the die development costs. He finished these up awhile ago, and they're now available on his web site. But it wasn't until now that I had time to install one. It's a pretty easy process that I'll detail here.

Here's the repalcement piece from RD. I intended the design to be cut apart and not installed as one piece. The idea is that you can mark the lock section and cut it out. And then what you're left with is the new piece and a template to mark the location where the new piece goes. The switch 'bump' and the little notch at the bottom of the dash are the alignment markers. It's not idiot proof though, so measure twice and cut once.

Marking where I want the cuts.
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Precision cutoff wheel work. sunglasses.gif
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Template in place to mark dash for cutting.
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More precision surgery. av-943.gif
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Replacement piece fits in the hole.
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I TIG welded it, but MIG works fine. Go slow, take brakes. Heat is the enemy.Attached Image

Grind and smooth to a no-filler needed finish.
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All in all, it took me almost exactly 2 hours to install the piece. It's lined up perfectly with the other holes and it's ready for install.

I can do these for $200, send your dash to me and I'll convert it. This one isn't spoken for, but I'm saving first right of refusal for Rob (ConeDodger) since last I heard he wanted a left ignition. bye1.gif

Posted by: Mueller Nov 25 2016, 11:59 AM

Neat!

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 25 2016, 02:15 PM

Which bezel will fit in the depression ?
And you need tha entire dash from door to door ?

Posted by: McMark Nov 25 2016, 02:22 PM

The original 914-6 bezel isn't available. But it could be remade REALLY easily. So that's not too far down the line. It could be 3D printed incredibly easily.

Yeah, for me to do the install I need the full dash frame. Unfortunately there's no other way.

Posted by: Mark Henry Nov 25 2016, 02:31 PM

I had this part in my hand...maybe even that actual part. biggrin.gif

Posted by: mb911 Nov 25 2016, 02:57 PM

I plan to do this at some point.. I need so many other things first.. I wonder what the total cost is for doing the complete conversion?

Posted by: mepstein Nov 25 2016, 04:17 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Nov 25 2016, 03:57 PM) *

I plan to do this at some point.. I need so many other things first.. I wonder what the total cost is for doing the complete conversion?

It doesn't really matter. I have most of what you need and you and I will work it all out. biggrin.gif

Posted by: Krieger Nov 25 2016, 04:47 PM

Nice work Mark! Great planning for an easy install.

Posted by: mb911 Nov 25 2016, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Nov 25 2016, 02:17 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Nov 25 2016, 03:57 PM) *

I plan to do this at some point.. I need so many other things first.. I wonder what the total cost is for doing the complete conversion?

It doesn't really matter. I have most of what you need and you and I will work it all out. biggrin.gif



We always do.. I feel I maybe making some more items for you soon..

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 25 2016, 05:16 PM

Mark,. Would you post a pic with the ignition inserted into the hole

Posted by: McMark Nov 25 2016, 05:41 PM

Sunday will be the soonest I can. But no problem.

Posted by: ConeDodger Nov 25 2016, 09:29 PM

I want it! evilgrin.gif

Posted by: Harpo Nov 26 2016, 07:10 AM

Very nicely done Mark

Posted by: sixaddict Nov 26 2016, 08:06 AM

Mark:
Is there any difference in the dash (70/71) versus later ones......
Thanks
TOT

Posted by: 396 Nov 26 2016, 08:51 AM

Congrats with getting this part recreated. I guess this part is a "must " have for those that have converted-4 to-6 from a visual point of view. The next thing is to remove the vin tag on next to the windshield.

Posted by: mb911 Nov 26 2016, 09:01 AM

QUOTE(396 @ Nov 26 2016, 06:51 AM) *

Congrats with getting this part recreated. I guess this part is a "must " have for those that have converted-4 to-6 from a visual point of view. The next thing is to remove the vin tag on next to the windshield.



The other advantages could be that more available turn signal electrical components.

Posted by: Mark Henry Nov 26 2016, 09:31 AM

Could someone make a list of the parts needed to do this mod? biggrin.gif

Stupid me I sold a ignition switch out of a 76 targa thinking I'd never do this. dry.gif

Posted by: mepstein Nov 26 2016, 09:44 AM

QUOTE(sixaddict @ Nov 26 2016, 09:06 AM) *

Mark:
Is there any difference in the dash (70/71) versus later ones......
Thanks
TOT

Yes - but I don't think you want to put an early sub dash frame in a later car unless you really want to re-work all the parts of the dash for the GT look.

Posted by: mepstein Nov 26 2016, 09:54 AM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Nov 26 2016, 10:01 AM) *

QUOTE(396 @ Nov 26 2016, 06:51 AM) *

Congrats with getting this part recreated. I guess this part is a "must " have for those that have converted-4 to-6 from a visual point of view. The next thing is to remove the vin tag on next to the windshield.



The other advantages could be that more available turn signal electrical components.

They are available but when you order new, they aren't cheap and the old parts often have issues. The piece from resto design is cheap but the entire conversion can easily cost a grand. Remember it also uses a 911 steering column which doesn't come cheap anymore. A 911 ignition switch runs about $250.

Posted by: sixaddict Nov 26 2016, 10:38 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Nov 26 2016, 07:44 AM) *

QUOTE(sixaddict @ Nov 26 2016, 09:06 AM) *

Mark:
Is there any difference in the dash (70/71) versus later ones......
Thanks
TOT

Yes - but I don't think you want to put an early sub dash frame in a later car unless you really want to re-work all the parts of the dash for the GT look.

Mark:
Now that my brain is in gear it is self evident
One reason I asked is I happen to have a 70 4 cylinder dash that is not in my build plan so was trying to decide if this makes it worth something
Terry

Posted by: Larmo63 Nov 26 2016, 12:06 PM

I found this older 911 switch and thought it might work?

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Posted by: McMark Nov 26 2016, 02:12 PM

QUOTE(sixaddict @ Nov 26 2016, 09:06 AM) *

Mark:
Is there any difference in the dash (70/71) versus later ones......
Thanks
TOT

Fresh air vents & top center vent.

Posted by: McMark Nov 26 2016, 02:15 PM

QUOTE(sixaddict @ Nov 26 2016, 11:38 AM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Nov 26 2016, 07:44 AM) *

QUOTE(sixaddict @ Nov 26 2016, 09:06 AM) *

Mark:
Is there any difference in the dash (70/71) versus later ones......
Thanks
TOT

Yes - but I don't think you want to put an early sub dash frame in a later car unless you really want to re-work all the parts of the dash for the GT look.

Mark:
Now that my brain is in gear it is self evident
One reason I asked is I happen to have a 70 4 cylinder dash that is not in my build plan so was trying to decide if this makes it worth something
Terry

They're still plenty of 'core' dashes in the world. I used to have about 10 that I planned on converting, but they got sacrificed in the move. I may start collecting cores to have in stock.

Posted by: McMark Nov 26 2016, 02:20 PM

Dash escutcheon picture. Apparently AutoAtlanta already makes a typically crappy reproduction.
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Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 26 2016, 06:02 PM

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Nov 25 2016, 07:29 PM) *

I want it! evilgrin.gif



Are going to do the full conversion with the steering wheel lock and early TS & Wiper switches ?

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 26 2016, 06:02 PM

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Nov 25 2016, 07:29 PM) *

I want it! evilgrin.gif



Are going to do the full conversion with the steering wheel lock and early TS & Wiper switches ?

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 26 2016, 06:04 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Nov 26 2016, 10:06 AM) *

I found this older 911 switch and thought it might work?

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Will that lock use a regular 914 key ?

Posted by: Larmo63 Nov 26 2016, 06:19 PM

It has a Porsche key in it. I'll use that. This ignition switch also has an accessory mode which comes in handy.

It fits into a plain round hole, too. No wheel lock.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 26 2016, 06:25 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Nov 26 2016, 04:19 PM) *

It has a Porsche key in it. I'll use that. This ignition switch also has an accessory mode which comes in handy.

It fits into a plain round hole, too. No wheel lock.


...like the hole for the fog light switch ?

Posted by: ConeDodger Nov 26 2016, 07:01 PM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Nov 26 2016, 09:02 PM) *

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Nov 25 2016, 07:29 PM) *

I want it! evilgrin.gif



Are going to do the full conversion with the steering wheel lock and early TS & Wiper switches ?


Mark has all those parts. I'm trying to dig up enough dirt on him so I can blackmail him into selling them to me...

poke.gif happy11.gif av-943.gif

Posted by: 396 Nov 26 2016, 07:47 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 26 2016, 01:20 PM) *

Dash escutcheon picture. Apparently AutoAtlanta already makes a typically crappy reproduction.
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Quick question, how were you able to locate this "crappy " repro one at AA? I searched just to see and could not located a picture of that crappy one...it looks just like my OEM.

Posted by: McMark Nov 27 2016, 03:31 PM

Here ya' go...


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Posted by: McMark Nov 27 2016, 03:33 PM

QUOTE(396 @ Nov 26 2016, 08:47 PM) *

Quick question, how were you able to locate this "crappy " repro one at AA? I searched just to see and could not located a picture of that crappy one...it looks just like my OEM.

Here's the image I was looking at. The surface finish and the 'fuzzy' edges bother me. I would have to spend a couple hours making this better before I would feel comfortable using it.

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Posted by: Steve Nov 27 2016, 04:36 PM

Curious Mark... what if we do not want the expense and hasstle of the 914-6 steering column. Do you have any recommendations for just the 911 ignition switch with 914-4 switches and column? Maybe cut the arm off of a 911 ignition switch?

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 27 2016, 04:53 PM

QUOTE(Steve @ Nov 27 2016, 02:36 PM) *

Curious Mark... what if we do not want the expense and hasstle of the 914-6 steering column. Do you have any recommendations for just the 911 ignition switch with 914-4 switches and column? Maybe cut the arm off of a 911 ignition switch?


Good question; curious
And: where did the black bezel come from ? Are they available as a Seperate item ?

Posted by: 396 Nov 27 2016, 07:22 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 27 2016, 02:33 PM) *

QUOTE(396 @ Nov 26 2016, 08:47 PM) *

Quick question, how were you able to locate this "crappy " repro one at AA? I searched just to see and could not located a picture of that crappy one...it looks just like my OEM.

Here's the image I was looking at. The surface finish and the 'fuzzy' edges bother me. I would have to spend a couple hours making this better before I would feel comfortable using it.

IPB Image



Thanks for posting the "mickey " part from AA. I did see that part and thought the same when I saw it.
My apologies as I was mistaken about the part in question.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 27 2016, 08:36 PM

Found it; only $29.95......yikes blink.gif

Posted by: rick 918-S Nov 28 2016, 05:31 AM

Mark, there is a washer that goes on before the shear screws go in. I'll try to get a photo later. It sandwiches the dash tin between the switch and the washer.
I made one for a guy once. I used a electrical box cover for the material, a knockout punch and a pattern off an original part.

Posted by: McMark Nov 28 2016, 09:11 AM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Nov 28 2016, 06:31 AM) *

Mark, there is a washer that goes on before the shear screws go in. I'll try to get a photo later. It sandwiches the dash tin between the switch and the washer.
I made one for a guy once. I used a electrical box cover for the material, a knockout punch and a pattern off an original part.

Yup. It was just for mockup. wink.gif Just looked, is that plate not available anymore? Is the 914-6 one different than the 911? If I can get one, I can have them laser cut en masse.

Posted by: sixnotfour Nov 28 2016, 11:00 AM

its the same as the same year 911, but the PN is superseded to the later aluminplate
911-347-621-00 SS 91134735901 911,347,359,01


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Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 28 2016, 11:32 AM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Nov 28 2016, 09:00 AM) *

its the same as the same year 911, but the PN is superseded to the later aluminplate
911-347-621-00 SS 91134735901 911,347,359,01



Does that part go on the outside of the dash face ?

Posted by: McMark Nov 28 2016, 01:19 PM

Yup, in the following order...



Ignition Switch behind dash

------------------Dash Frame------------------

Reinforcement plate in front of dash

---------Basket Weave Vinyl Facing---------

Plastic Escutcheon/Surround

Posted by: sixnotfour Dec 1 2016, 11:02 AM

Nice job McMark, beerchug.gif

uneducated viewer , ya it real it has a "Left Key"
this is the cheapest and easiest way.



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Posted by: Harpo Dec 3 2016, 08:46 PM

What year 911 column do I need for this conversion

Thanks

David

Posted by: McMark Dec 4 2016, 11:01 AM

Only early cars and real 914-6 steering column will bolt up without modification. A 911 column must have the 914 mount plate moved over. I'm not sure what the cutoff date would be, but http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=82045 has some pictures so you know what you're looking for. There are other examples on the site here as well.

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Posted by: sixnotfour Dec 4 2016, 01:25 PM

911 columns 69-73

Posted by: Steve Dec 4 2016, 02:04 PM

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?

Posted by: jim_hoyland Dec 4 2016, 02:14 PM

QUOTE(Steve @ Dec 4 2016, 12:04 PM) *

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?


I was informed that it's doable

Posted by: McMark Dec 5 2016, 08:05 AM

Yup, absolutely.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Dec 5 2016, 05:19 PM

QUOTE(Steve @ Dec 4 2016, 12:04 PM) *

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?


Is the buzzer switch the part to the right of the main tumbler ? IIRC the mechanism at the end of the arm will have to work; spring loaded ?


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Posted by: SixerJ Dec 20 2016, 05:34 PM

Mark 1stly apologies for the hijack. I was thinking of pulling the column parts I have been piecing together for my six & photograph them for posterity with all the talk of column conversions and thought it would be better to keep it with other conversion info

Harpo pinged me the other night to post some info, so here goes

These are the bits that if you are going to do a column conversion you need to get together. The parts in the photo would suit all years except the fact that the early cars (-4 and -6) had the smaller mounting plate fitted to the column tube, if you have a later car and converting a 911 tube, as Mark states, you need to use the later mount plate. If you have an early car you need to fabricate the small mounting plate. I will take dims and post in this thread

Missing from the picture is the steering wheel washer, rubber isolation pad (NLA) that goes between column tube and mounting plate and front column tube bearing, apart from those I think it's all there

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There are a number of excellent conversion threads on this site about to go about the conversion. The major hurdles to get it to function and 'look right' (until now) were the upper and lower covers, the eyebrow covers that close the gap to the dash frame itself, ignition bezel (still an issue) and of course Mark's & RD's super hard to hand fabricate ignition dimple. smiley_notworthy.gif

I started down the 911 column conversion route while I hunted for genuine used and NOS six parts. Info I have found out along the way through reading the threads and background research;

As others have stated the best way to start is with as a complete 911 column and switches & lock etc as possible, this is definitely the least cost route

Column tube itself is exactly the same as a long wheelbase pre impact bumper 911 unit with the exception of the U shape ignition lock thing. The 914-6 tube has the U shape doodahh welded on 180 out to clear a bolt hole in the small plate - no biggie just makes assembly slightly more fiddly I would imagine. For a later car, I would imagine that there is lots of clearance

If using a later lock, again as members have stated you need to trim down the end of the lock to fit the early column tube, again there are posts with the required dims, but I can't find it right now

Tube spline shaft, rear bearings, horn ring, horn contact, misc fixing screws are all 911 parts. PET however does list the 914-6 front bearing and spring that sits against the bearing as distinctly different part numbers to the 911 parts. The spring in the picture (hard to see as it is from above) is actually 911 item & I have looked at both my 911 tube and complete 914-6 tube and I cannot see an obvious difference in the front bearing

Bearings are still available (super expensive so don't bugger yours up), as is the 914-6 spring (I'm going to order one as it is a low cost item) / have a genuine column and front bearing - just in case. If there is a difference I will update once I have it in my hand

I found by chance that the cheese head screws which mount the ignition switch to the lock and column switches to tube are the same as 2" round electrical conduit box cover screws, this probably helps those in Europe save some dimes, but not US members being generally imperial thread in construction- sorry. Correct finish for screws, washers etc is gold passivate

If you have your original -4 wheel you'll need to purchase the horn cancellation ring / remove the -4 rear assembly. The cancel ring, new horn contact pin is available from SMadre and others

I ran out of power in the phone tonight to document, but 914-6 and 911 wiper switches are basically the same (round 6 connector) and when I pinned them out they also seemed to be electrically the same (only 5 pins used out of the 6).

Direction indicator switch is different, but principally it's the loom - flash function? 914-6 has a single rectangular plug, 911 item has the loom split to two plugs. It really only matters if you have a genuine -6 loom. If converting you would just cut and splice

Part number stamping on the arm is different and only matters if you are being anal and have a genuine car

Splined shaft that mounts up to the rear of the column and over to the rack is also different depending on year and model. The good news is that with the majority of cars being post 72 that shaft is the same part number as a -6. If you have an early -4 you need to acquire the later shaft - which lets face it is not going to be hard

Will post more pics of the switches etc & dims of the small plate tomorrow but also try and get a CAD file sorted by my guy at work (maybe the new year now)

I know you will but, if I'm out of line with any details please step in to correct

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Posted by: rhodyguy Dec 20 2016, 07:44 PM

Is there a desired plastic 'cup' on the back of the steering wheel for this method?

Posted by: mepstein Dec 20 2016, 08:18 PM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Dec 20 2016, 08:44 PM) *

Is there a desired plastic 'cup' on the back of the steering wheel for this method?

Neither. You use the early 911 / 914-6 setup, early 914 wheel ( ends with a 10 & 911 cancel ring). Shown in post #51

Posted by: SixerJ Dec 21 2016, 06:38 AM

More pictures

Wiper stalk switches, from Right to Left;

NOS 914-6 (6 pin connector with all pins present / 1 unused)
Used 914-6 (6 pin connector with one pin missing - just visible)
Used 911 (901 part number on the stalk so early, with six pins. The loose wire with a spade connector goes to the 6th connector that is unused in the 914-6 part. Sheathing is partly removed as the loom has some damage from when the column was cut out of the 911 by the eBay seller with a gas axe wacko.gif)

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Turn Signal switches

From Right to Left;

Used 911 (901 part number again). Loom is damaged and even missing one of its connectors due to the gas axe. Ebay seller cleverly positioned all the loom damage in the photos so I couldn't see). Messy but reparable and useable for a conversion

Used 914-6
NOS 914-6

Loom lengths are similar for both 914 and 911 items. If you really wanted to re-create a 914-6 switch, loom and plug using a 911 switch as a basis it would be perfectly doable with the correct rectangular plug. However you would also have to have a matching -6 main loom - not worth it for a conversion. Part number on stalk would be incorrect however as these are stamped in

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Column tubes

911 and 914-6 tubes. Same basic construction, length and lock hole identical. U lock spun as described before

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Posted by: SixerJ Dec 21 2016, 06:48 AM

More

I have figured out that there is indeed a difference in the upper bearings, 911 tube measuring from the outer flange to the bearing surface 9.1 - 9.2mm depending on where you measured

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914-6 column distance is slightly shorter at 8.4mm

Not sure why the difference, clearance at the clamshells / stop something rubbing. I'm guessing that the 914-6 spring would also differ by 1mm?

Seems like a lot of effort for less than 1mm delta

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Posted by: McMark Dec 21 2016, 06:58 AM

This is turning into a great overall how-to thread. thumb3d.gif

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=243875

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=206113

Posted by: Mark Henry Dec 21 2016, 07:53 AM

I'm seeing two ways, a no lock with what looks like stock /4 switches and one with 911 switches and locking. I take it the latter is correct...or are they both correct?

Posted by: SixerJ Dec 21 2016, 08:37 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Dec 21 2016, 01:53 PM) *

I'm seeing two ways, a no lock with what looks like stock /4 switches and one with 911 switches and locking. I take it the latter is correct...or are they both correct?


Yep, Genuine six route would be the latter, lots of bits and $$ as even the 911 parts are no longer a low cost option. -4 route would be the dash frame mod, relocate ignition (no lock) and keep the -4 column etc - comparatively simple and much less $ than the full six route

I'm doing the former as I have a genuine six, but it lost its column (and other bits) when she went racing & trying to reverse time

Start with the frame mod while hunting for 911 parts, lower commitment but with future options?

Posted by: Harpo Dec 21 2016, 09:22 PM

Here is my diy 914-6 column

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Posted by: gereed75 Dec 22 2016, 07:32 AM

Mark, do you have any of the replacement bearing kits left? PM me info. Thanks

Posted by: McMark Dec 22 2016, 01:08 PM

Gotta look if I still have my shim information or any of those left. The bearings are easy. I'll let you know.

Posted by: gereed75 Dec 22 2016, 01:18 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 22 2016, 02:08 PM) *

Gotta look if I still have my shim information or any of those left. The bearings are easy. I'll let you know.


Thanks Mark

Posted by: mepstein Dec 22 2016, 01:19 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 22 2016, 02:08 PM) *

Gotta look if I still have my shim information or any of those left. The bearings are easy. I'll let you know.

I would be interested. We end up buying the Porsche one, $240 every 2-3 months. It's painfull.
Please.

Posted by: Niklas Dec 22 2016, 01:33 PM

Do we have Porsche part no for all the parts needed?


Niklas

Posted by: BuddyV Dec 22 2016, 09:17 PM

"Escutcheon"..... smile.gif

Only other time I heard that word was when my wife used it in conversation a few years back. Escutcheon ring around the fire sprinkler.

I married smart.

(I looked up the new word as soon as she wasn't looking)

Great word.

Posted by: Harpo Dec 23 2016, 05:21 PM

I like trim ring, I can actually spell that

Posted by: tweet Jan 9 2017, 09:06 PM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Nov 26 2016, 07:04 PM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Nov 26 2016, 10:06 AM) *

I found this older 911 switch and thought it might work?

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Will that lock use a regular 914 key ?


No, that is K100/K300 style 356/911 key. The 914 uses an HC/NC key profile. They are not interchangeable. The face of the lock is also distinguishably different. A show judge would notice it immediately. That ignition lock also has spade connectors. The 914-6 ignition switch has bullet connectors like the 911.

Posted by: tweet Jan 9 2017, 09:20 PM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Nov 28 2016, 12:00 PM) *

its the same as the same year 911, but the PN is superseded to the later aluminplate
911-347-621-00 SS 91134735901 911,347,359,01

That aluminum plate acts as a retainer and a spacer. It is for late 911 ignition locks. The later style uses a shallower (flatter) all plastic bezel. The earlier locks had a couple of different versions of retainer; just punched metal. The bezel is thicker and has a black metal insert or polished steel insert (like the picture above).

Posted by: tweet Jan 9 2017, 09:38 PM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Dec 5 2016, 06:19 PM) *

QUOTE(Steve @ Dec 4 2016, 12:04 PM) *

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?


Is the buzzer switch the part to the right of the main tumbler ? IIRC the mechanism at the end of the arm will have to work; spring loaded ?


The 911/914-6 steering lock will all mount the same way, but there are subtle differences throughout the years. It's up to the owner if they want to be period correct in appearance and have correct profile key. Early locking ignition had spade connectors not bullet.




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Posted by: Larmo63 Jan 10 2017, 12:42 AM

BTW, I have two of theses ignition switches. I'm quite sure they give you the opportunity to have an accessory setting in the switch.

I will be selling one, if someone is interested. They are both in good usable condition. (No key fob)

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Posted by: Harpo Jan 10 2017, 07:33 PM

Mark I would be interested in your bearing fix as well.

Thanks

David




QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 22 2016, 11:08 AM) *

Gotta look if I still have my shim information or any of those left. The bearings are easy. I'll let you know.


Posted by: McMark Jan 11 2017, 06:41 AM

I kinda thought so. Have one sitting here for you. wink.gif

Posted by: Harpo Jan 16 2017, 06:25 AM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 4 2016, 11:25 AM) *

911 columns 69-73


Just in case anyone was wondering why a 74 or later column will not work here is a photo. The length difference is about 2 inches. The 73 column will be 8.75 inches long
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Posted by: jim_hoyland Jan 16 2017, 07:35 AM

QUOTE(Harpo @ Jan 16 2017, 04:25 AM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 4 2016, 11:25 AM) *

911 columns 69-73


Just in case anyone was wondering why a 74 or later column will not work here is a photo. The length difference is about 2 inches. The 73 column will be 8.75 inches long
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For comparison, how long is the 914 column ? BTW: great thread.... smile.gif

Posted by: McMark Jan 16 2017, 08:09 AM

The 914-6 steel column (steel tube portion) is about 8-9/16"
The four cylinder column (steel tube portion) is about 6" long.

Posted by: Harpo Jan 16 2017, 09:34 AM

QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 28 2016, 07:11 AM) *

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Nov 28 2016, 06:31 AM) *

Mark, there is a washer that goes on before the shear screws go in. I'll try to get a photo later. It sandwiches the dash tin between the switch and the washer.
I made one for a guy once. I used a electrical box cover for the material, a knockout punch and a pattern off an original part.

Yup. It was just for mockup. wink.gif Just looked, is that plate not available anymore? Is the 914-6 one different than the 911? If I can get one, I can have them laser cut en masse.


Hey Mark any luck with this reinforcement plate? Otherwise I will modify an old 911 to fit with marginal results. I made a crappy pattern of the inside of the 914-6 dash and transferred it to a 911 piece
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Posted by: Harpo Jan 16 2017, 01:10 PM

Certainly not perfect but it will work in the short term

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Posted by: mb911 Jan 16 2017, 04:10 PM

How come the -6 dash as such a deep recess versus a 911 ?

Posted by: Harpo Jan 16 2017, 04:31 PM

I believe it has to do with the angle of the dash.

Posted by: mb911 Jan 16 2017, 05:36 PM

QUOTE(Harpo @ Jan 16 2017, 02:31 PM) *

I believe it has to do with the angle of the dash.



Oh that makes sense.. I am currently collecting parts so exciting.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 17 2017, 09:54 PM

QUOTE(Harpo @ Jan 16 2017, 07:25 AM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 4 2016, 11:25 AM) *

911 columns 69-73


Just in case anyone was wondering why a 74 or later column will not work here is a photo. The length difference is about 2 inches. The 73 column will be 8.75 inches long
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So you can't mod a /4 column even if you have the fab skills? confused24.gif

I said I wasn't going to do it, but I found the turn and wiper switches in my stash and a friend is sending me an ignition switch.
I thought I had a /6 column, couldn't find it and it's off of a '76 anyways. rolleyes.gif

Looks like I'm collecting parts for next winter's project. smile.gif

Posted by: mb911 Jan 18 2017, 06:16 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 17 2017, 07:54 PM) *

QUOTE(Harpo @ Jan 16 2017, 07:25 AM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 4 2016, 11:25 AM) *

911 columns 69-73


Just in case anyone was wondering why a 74 or later column will not work here is a photo. The length difference is about 2 inches. The 73 column will be 8.75 inches long
Attached Image

So you can't mod a /4 column even if you have the fab skills? confused24.gif

I said I wasn't going to do it, but I found the turn and wiper switches in my stash and a friend is sending me an ignition switch.
I thought I had a /6 column, couldn't find it and it's off of a '76 anyways. rolleyes.gif

Looks like I'm collecting parts for next winter's project. smile.gif



I am receiving my column and ignition today.. Bought it really cheap though off a 75.. I am trying determine how I can mod it to work..

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 18 2017, 07:39 AM

That's why I'm asking if you can just fab and add brackets, plus relocate the lock hole, to the existing /4 column? idea.gif

I don't care about correctness, my car is a '74 conversion and besides you can't see the column anyways.

Posted by: mb911 Jan 18 2017, 03:03 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 18 2017, 05:39 AM) *

That's why I'm asking if you can just fab and add brackets, plus relocate the lock hole, to the existing /4 column? idea.gif

I don't care about correctness, my car is a '74 conversion and besides you can't see the column anyways.




I just received mine today.. It looks very similar to what I am seeing in pictures on this thread..

Bad news is the ignition switch came with no key.. Good news paid 75 for it and the column and wiring harnesses shipped..

Posted by: tweet Jan 20 2017, 11:55 AM

Hello All,
We are trying to date when certain changes occurred in this style of ignition lock. Here is something that's been puzzling us for a while. We know all about the mechanics of the 911/914-6 style ignition switch from its earliest iteration on the early 911/912 with the steering lock option. Those pre-1970 steering locks came keyed to an "FL' profile key. They also had spade connectors on the electrical switch and did not have the small white buzzer contact switch. They also have the shaved end on the locking bolt end (no provision/recess for the security bolt).

So, we have always assumed the next generation of the 911 switch (1970 on), which comes with a HC/NC key profile, always came with the buzzer contact switch. Well, this is not the case. We have one that does not have the provision for the buzzer contact switch. The casing is blocked off; no hole.

So, which models/years did not have a buzzer contact switch?

Also:
When did the face of the lock cylinder change from a stainless steel cap to a black painted face?

Last question:
Did all 914-6 ignition switches come with the buzzer contact switch or was there a change from one model year to the next?

Kudos to those that can answer these correctly. Thanks.

Posted by: Harpo Jan 20 2017, 07:34 PM

I'm sure that it can be converted especially someone with your skills Mark. Because you already the 76 column that probably is your best bet. If you look at Andy's original thread he fabricated his own brackets and with the column positioned optimally in the car he welded them in place.

There is really no correct year it is only about the easiest path

David

Posted by: SixerJ Jan 21 2017, 01:44 AM

QUOTE(tweet @ Jan 20 2017, 05:55 PM) *

Hello All,
We are trying to date when certain changes occurred in this style of ignition lock. Here is something that's been puzzling us for a while. We know all about the mechanics of the 911/914-6 style ignition switch from its earliest iteration on the early 911/912 with the steering lock option. Those pre-1970 steering locks came keyed to an "FL' profile key. They also had spade connectors on the electrical switch and did not have the small white buzzer contact switch. They also have the shaved end on the locking bolt end (no provision/recess for the security bolt).

So, we have always assumed the next generation of the 911 switch (1970 on), which comes with a HC/NC key profile, always came with the buzzer contact switch. Well, this is not the case. We have one that does not have the provision for the buzzer contact switch. The casing is blocked off; no hole.

So, which models/years did not have a buzzer contact switch?

Also:
When did the face of the lock cylinder change from a stainless steel cap to a black painted face?

Last question:
Did all 914-6 ignition switches come with the buzzer contact switch or was there a change from one model year to the next?

Kudos to those that can answer these correctly. Thanks.


Hi Tweet, this is not going to answer your questions definitely but this is what I have observed down the years

Ignition buzzer. I think (note think) is a USA v ROW thing. My UK spec 72 911 (same lock) does not have a buzzer, nor do any of the other original Euro cars that I have observed or ridden in

914s and especially sixes are very thin on the ground here and nearly all are imports, so checking them out as a reference is a bit pointless. Indeed no Euro car I have ever driven since age 17 has a buzzer

That said from a production perspective having two stocks of buzzer / no buzzer switches seem like a bit of a PITA, just stock buzzer switches but don't hook it up if its Euro and not required

Ignition lock face. My logic says that this would have changed at the same time as satin black window surrounds and headlamp rings, so what 75?

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 21 2017, 06:54 PM

Just got a deal on a 69-73 column from my buddy who's sending me the ignition switch piratenanner.gif

Only thing is the switch doesn't have keys, didn't someone say there's a trick to getting the tumbler out?

Posted by: mb911 Jan 22 2017, 07:29 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 21 2017, 04:54 PM) *

Just got a deal on a 69-73 column from my buddy who's sending me the ignition switch piratenanner.gif

Only thing is the switch doesn't have keys, didn't someone say there's a trick to getting the tumbler out?



Yup just did it Mark on the one I got.. If you look just below the threaded portion for the bezel there is pin that needs to be removed. If your looking at the lock head on with the column lock pointing to the right it would be about the 2 o'clock position. I drilled a small drill right next to the pin and used a sharpened tungsten from my TIG machine to remove the pin.. It pops out easily once you get it to move.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 22 2017, 08:15 AM

Thanks Ben. bye1.gif

Posted by: mb911 Jan 22 2017, 09:05 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 22 2017, 06:15 AM) *

Thanks Ben. bye1.gif



Np.. If you need pictures let me know .. I think I googled it and found a very old world thread that had pictures.. Had I not seen them no way would I have seen it..


Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 28 2017, 08:33 AM

Here's my collection so far :
I just got the ignition switch ('83 SC) and column ('69-'73 not sure of year) for free piratenanner.gif
The switch is challenged as the mounting screws have been cut off and it has no key.
But hey! I can't beat the price w00t.gif

Well not exactly free, a good buddy and I trade parts, his junk for my junk. I gave him my old /6 weber vents and some other IDA weber parts I had. It always works out in the wash.

I had the turn and wiper switches in my stash, they're off of a '76.

Do I need the switch wiring harness? damn... unsure.gif

Not going to worry about this project this year, I'd be happy just getting my 914 on the road, this is for next winters project.
I'll pick up the dash piece from RD at this summers open house.


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Posted by: mb911 Jan 28 2017, 08:54 AM

If you flip the switch with the key portion facing downward. You should be able to use a regular straight blade screw driver to thread out the broken fasteners..

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 28 2017, 08:59 AM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jan 28 2017, 09:54 AM) *

If you flip the switch with the key portion facing downward. You should be able to use a regular straight blade screw driver to thread out the broken fasteners..

They have also cut one of the back of the screws off rolleyes.gif

No biggie getting them out...just some time.

Posted by: mb911 Jan 28 2017, 09:08 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 28 2017, 06:59 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jan 28 2017, 09:54 AM) *

If you flip the switch with the key portion facing downward. You should be able to use a regular straight blade screw driver to thread out the broken fasteners..

They have also cut one of the back of the screws off rolleyes.gif

No biggie getting them out...just some time.



In the blind through holes?

Either way good find. I paid 75 for my set up and I had to do a little welding on it as someone had smashed it a bit with a hammer and I also have a later column so I need to find an early column still with switches..


Posted by: Harpo Jan 28 2017, 12:09 PM

Mark, mine were the same way. Mine came right out with a LH twist drill bit

Posted by: Larmo63 Jan 28 2017, 02:17 PM

I have a couple of early ignition switches for sale in the for sale threads that I think would work for this.

Just thought I'd mention it.....

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 28 2017, 11:38 PM

QUOTE(Harpo @ Jan 28 2017, 01:09 PM) *

Mark, mine were the same way. Mine came right out with a LH twist drill bit

Yep that's the plan biggrin.gif

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 28 2017, 03:17 PM) *

I have a couple of early ignition switches for sale in the for sale threads that I think would work for this.

Just thought I'd mention it.....


Not for same price as I got mine for. shades.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Jan 31 2017, 04:03 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 21 2017, 07:54 PM) *


Only thing is the switch doesn't have keys, didn't someone say there's a trick to getting the tumbler out?


How to remove the tumbler for rekeying. thumb3d.gif

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/944266-porsche-911-ignition-re-key.html

Posted by: Harpo Feb 19 2017, 10:06 AM

It appears that the 914 & 911 column are very similar. The lugs are certainly different between the 914 & 911. Has anyone confirmed if everything else is the same. Same goes for the lower bearing, they appear to be interchangeable.

Thanks

David
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Posted by: Harpo Feb 25 2017, 01:02 PM

I know that welding causes heat but I failed to consider the consequences of welding on my 914-6 clone column. I can't install the lower bearing.

I have tried heating up the column and installing the bearing and was successful but ended having to remove because the bearing was binding.

So I have decided that machining is the way to go. Lathe may be the easiest if I could chuck it up, not. So that leaves a milling machine. headbang.gif

Posted by: Harpo Feb 25 2017, 02:23 PM

Could the machining experts please help here?

Could a small diameter hone work? The price is right
https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-1120-Small-Cylinder/dp/B0035533GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488054058&sr=8-3&keywords=bore+hone

Posted by: zambezi Feb 25 2017, 03:12 PM

I would think a small break hone would work for this.

Posted by: live free & drive Feb 25 2017, 03:44 PM

Hi,

Take it to a repair oriented machine shop ( or friend with a lathe). The way to do it is to clamp the part to the compound or cross-slide (as if it was going to be line bored) shim up the shaft/tube to the lathes centerline and clamp in place. Then put an adjustable boring bar in a collet in the spindle (like a Criterion or DeVleig) and then tease off the out of round or off-size heat deformation. It won't take much. The machining will take a few minutes the set-up 1/2 hour plus.

Posted by: McMark Feb 26 2017, 07:25 AM

I don't think that bearing needs perfect machining to sit in all the way around. It's not carrying a load. I'd try the hone, which may expose some high points that can be taken down with some light touches from a carbide cutter.

I think you can get it sorted out in your garage. Or throw it in a box my way and I'll sort it in my free time and document my process.

Posted by: Harpo Feb 26 2017, 07:45 AM

Thanks Mark I will try the hone (it was cheap) and let you know

David

Posted by: Harpo Mar 14 2017, 03:21 PM

Is there a member with a six that that is willing to send their reinforcement "washer" to McMark so he can have these laser cut

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Posted by: peteyd Mar 15 2017, 10:06 AM

QUOTE(Harpo @ Mar 14 2017, 01:21 PM) *

Is there a member with a six that that is willing to send their reinforcement "washer" to McMark so he can have these laser cut

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I have this piece and also a laser.

I can work on this and sell it with the other stamped piece.

Pete

Posted by: McMark Mar 15 2017, 12:54 PM

Awesome Pete. I was gonna run with it, but you're way more set up to deal with it.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Mar 15 2017, 03:15 PM

Installed the Jeff Hines left-side ignition kit.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 15 2017, 03:22 PM

QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 15 2017, 12:06 PM) *


I have this piece and also a laser.

I can work on this and sell it with the other stamped piece.

Pete


I want one of each, set them aside for me for when we bring you your seat. biggrin.gif

Posted by: SixerJ Mar 15 2017, 04:35 PM

That's my support ring in the photo and bought it last year via Mittlemotor at the time it was still available

Pete, for any reason if you can't find yours / NLA I would be happy to post over

Posted by: mepstein Mar 15 2017, 04:42 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 15 2017, 05:22 PM) *

QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 15 2017, 12:06 PM) *


I have this piece and also a laser.

I can work on this and sell it with the other stamped piece.

Pete


I want one of each, set them aside for me for when we bring you your seat. biggrin.gif

Pete - I'll take 2 spacers. Thanks, mark

Posted by: Harpo Mar 16 2017, 07:11 AM

That is awesome Pete I will take one also. Please let me know when they are ready


Yes I borrowed sixerj photo to help emphasize my point

Posted by: peteyd Mar 16 2017, 11:57 AM

Here is the preliminary drawing. In the next couple days I will cut one out on the laser and see how it matches up to the OEM piece.

Pete

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Posted by: jim_hoyland Mar 16 2017, 01:16 PM

QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 16 2017, 10:57 AM) *

Here is the preliminary drawing. In the next couple days I will cut one out on the laser and see how it matches up to the OEM piece.

Pete

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Please add me to the list; I will order 1

Posted by: eric914 Mar 16 2017, 08:51 PM

Me too:)

Posted by: type47fan Mar 16 2017, 09:12 PM

Nothing really constructive to add here . . . just found these pictures of a set up I had, at one time, from a '71/6.

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Posted by: peteyd Mar 17 2017, 03:00 PM

I cut out the shim today.

It fits on the ignition nicely and matches up the original piece nice as well.
Next week I will cut them out of the proper gauge steel.

Pete

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Posted by: Harpo Mar 17 2017, 03:16 PM

Good afternoon Pete,

Is there any chance you would consider making the "washer" a little thicker?

Thanks

David

QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 16 2017, 09:57 AM) *

Here is the preliminary drawing. In the next couple days I will cut one out on the laser and see how it matches up to the OEM piece.

Pete

Attached Image


Posted by: peteyd Mar 17 2017, 06:07 PM

Originally the thickness is .035"

What do people want? I have material that is .045" and .032" It will be cut out of galvaneel steel, which wont rust so there is no need to paint it. It also polishes up pretty nice with some scotch brite

I can cut either thickness, but I don't want to cut both.

Pete

Posted by: SixerJ Mar 17 2017, 07:04 PM

QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 18 2017, 12:07 AM) *

Originally the thickness is .035"

What do people want? I have material that is .045" and .032" It will be cut out of galvaneel steel, which wont rust so there is no need to paint it. It also polishes up pretty nice with some scotch brite

I can cut either thickness, but I don't want to cut both.

Pete


Pete, I would be really tempted to do it out of the thicker material. My new one I recall is very thin and yours looks like it has pulled up in where it has bolted up. I can't see that it's going to make a difference in mounting up, clearance with the plastic escutcheon etc

Thanks for doing this BTW and demonstrates exactly why this site and members are great beerchug.gif

Posted by: tweet Mar 18 2017, 08:29 AM

For those that have requested a thicker gauge metal, this may have been deliberate by Porsche. I've had a few of these and some customers' as well. When they distort they are very easily flattened back with a standard hammer and a flat surface and are good to go.

Don't forget that this is a malleable fixing plate to install the heavy unbalanced 911 style ignition. The weight and design of this ignition, and the way these older cars go down the road make the ignition move a lot even when properly installed. I think the thinner gauge and softness of the metal are supposed to behave more like a crush washer so the plate takes the impact and vibration from daily driving, instead of the soft threads of the mounting holes in the zinc casting of the steering lock housing.

This is just my opinion and reasoning. Then again maybe Porsche just cheapened out, but I would rather save the threads and have the plate give out, not the $950 ignition assembly.




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Posted by: Harpo Mar 18 2017, 09:38 AM

Because you have the .045 in stock that would be my vote.

A class 8.8 M6 bolt requires a minimum 9.6mm of threads of engagement. There are 18mm of available threads in the lock. Therefore with a 20mm long bolt the risk of damaging the threads in the lock are minimal. I under stand tweet's post it is a very expensive part.

I have found a suitable black pan head screw and I have extras if anyone want some for their clone or real left side ignition. If interested please send me a PM

David
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QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 17 2017, 04:07 PM) *

Originally the thickness is .035"

What do people want? I have material that is .045" and .032" It will be cut out of galvaneel steel, which wont rust so there is no need to paint it. It also polishes up pretty nice with some scotch brite

I can cut either thickness, but I don't want to cut both.

Pete

Posted by: Harpo Mar 19 2017, 09:40 AM

If the u joints are the same between the 914 & 914-6 then why wont my 911 steering shaft slide on to my U joint? I can't find any burrs or damage and it will slide on to my 914 steering shaft?

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Posted by: peteyd Mar 20 2017, 12:02 PM

We finished cutting out the shims today.

They are cut from .045" thick material.

They will be sold with the dash depression piece I already make. If you want to buy one separately they will be $8. they are not on the website yet, so if you're dying to get one fast, then call and ask for Pete

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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 20 2017, 12:37 PM

Cool! shades.gif

Posted by: mb911 Mar 20 2017, 01:30 PM

Awesome I want one for sure.

Posted by: Harpo Mar 20 2017, 03:11 PM

Me too agree.gif

Posted by: jkb944t Mar 21 2017, 05:40 AM

That is great news since I'll need one too. I just wish it would have happened a couple of weeks ago when I ordered my dash depression piece.

Jeff B

Posted by: peteyd Mar 21 2017, 06:04 AM

I will bring a handful to Hershey if that helps anybody.

Pete

Posted by: Larmo63 Mar 21 2017, 04:14 PM

I think I'm missing the outer bearing. That seems to be easily sourced(?) Will the '73 /4 steering column shaft fit into this? It would allow me to use the later wheel which seems to be more available. Also, the lower circlip, any body have/source those? The one that holds the inner bearing in?

This is all that came in the box.... confused24.gif

Here's where I'm at so far, and I'm just going to use that early ignition switch because I don't care so much about originality and which key it uses. Will the /6 plastic bezel screw onto my early switch? Anybody?

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Posted by: jkb944t Mar 22 2017, 05:52 AM

The electrical connections for the ignition switch and the wiper/turn signal stalks are obviously very different when converting to the 911 column.

Does anyone have a chart with the pinout locations?

Jeff B

Posted by: mepstein Mar 22 2017, 05:55 AM

QUOTE(peteyd @ Mar 21 2017, 08:04 AM) *

I will bring a handful to Hershey if that helps anybody.

Pete

Yes. I'll pick up a couple from you then. Thanks

Posted by: jim_hoyland Mar 22 2017, 06:06 AM

I want one too; anyone in So Cal ordering one ? I'd like to combine an order...

Posted by: sb914 Mar 22 2017, 06:11 AM

Wondering? what are the benefits of this mod? Converting to let side

Posted by: McMark Mar 22 2017, 06:50 AM

QUOTE(sb914 @ Mar 22 2017, 08:11 AM) *

Wondering? what are the benefits of this mod? Converting to let side

Cool factor goes through the roof.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Mar 22 2017, 07:28 AM

QUOTE(jkb944t @ Mar 22 2017, 04:52 AM) *

The electrical connections for the ignition switch and the wiper/turn signal stalks are obviously very different when converting to the 911 column.

Does anyone have a chart with the pinout locations?

Jeff B


I did a pin-out ID for the Ignition Switch; will take a pic and post later

Posted by: Steve Mar 22 2017, 07:29 AM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Mar 22 2017, 05:06 AM) *

I want one too; anyone in So Cal ordering one ? I'd like to combine an order...

I will take one if you are ordering one. We can split the shipping cost.

Posted by: Harpo Mar 22 2017, 08:25 AM

This is all that I have been able to find so far
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Posted by: Harpo Mar 22 2017, 08:29 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 21 2017, 02:14 PM) *

I think I'm missing the outer bearing. That seems to be easily sourced(?) Will the '73 /4 steering column shaft fit into this? It would allow me to use the later wheel which seems to be more available. Also, the lower circle, any body have/source those? The one that holds the inner bearing in?

This is all that came in the box.... confused24.gif

Here's where I'm at so far, and I'm just going to use that early switch because I don't care so much about originality and which key it uses. Will the /6 plastic bezel screw onto my early switch? Anybody?

Attached Image


The lower bearing is held in place with "C" clips. The upper bearing that you have already installed has a slight interference fit. I believe that the steering wheel fits in there and removed all of the play. I believe the lower bearing is the same between 914/914/6 and 911.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 22 2017, 09:40 AM

QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 22 2017, 08:50 AM) *

QUOTE(sb914 @ Mar 22 2017, 08:11 AM) *

Wondering? what are the benefits of this mod? Converting to let side

Cool factor goes through the roof.

If you're doing a /6 conversion it makes it a little more authentic, true to what Porsche did. You don't have to do it, really it's just cosmetic.

But like Mark said...cool. shades.gif

Posted by: jim_hoyland Mar 22 2017, 09:52 AM

QUOTE(Steve @ Mar 22 2017, 06:29 AM) *

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Mar 22 2017, 05:06 AM) *

I want one too; anyone in So Cal ordering one ? I'd like to combine an order...

I will take one if you are ordering one. We can split the shipping cost.


Great, lets see whether Larmo, Forrest, or ? want to order too.... smile.gif

Posted by: Larmo63 Mar 22 2017, 10:34 AM

QUOTE(sb914 @ Mar 22 2017, 05:11 AM) *

Wondering? what are the benefits of this mod? Converting to let side


Faster starts at Le Mans.....? driving.gif

Posted by: Harpo Mar 22 2017, 10:41 AM

agree.gif

Posted by: jkb944t Mar 22 2017, 10:59 AM

Cool factor for sure plus faster Le Mans starts! first.gif

Posted by: Larmo63 Mar 22 2017, 11:19 AM

Now, back to business, will a stock /4 steering shaft work inside of this column if I'm not going to use the lock mechanism?

Posted by: mb911 Mar 22 2017, 11:56 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 22 2017, 09:19 AM) *

Now, back to business, will a stock /4 steering shaft work inside of this column if I'm not going to use the lock mechanism?

Oh that would be perfect.

Posted by: Harpo Mar 22 2017, 12:42 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Mar 22 2017, 09:56 AM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 22 2017, 09:19 AM) *

Now, back to business, will a stock /4 steering shaft work inside of this column if I'm not going to use the lock mechanism?

Oh that would be perfect.

agree.gif

Posted by: SixerJ Mar 22 2017, 05:18 PM

Lawrence, circlips are availiable from OPC, stoddard etc

I don't get the 35x1.5 dim, could swear the tube is bigger than that, should be cheap as chips if you can find a non Porsche source

Positive the late -4 column uses the same clip

http://www.stoddard.com/90004200800.html

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Posted by: SixerJ Mar 22 2017, 05:25 PM

QUOTE(Harpo @ Mar 22 2017, 02:29 PM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 21 2017, 02:14 PM) *

I think I'm missing the outer bearing. That seems to be easily sourced(?) Will the '73 /4 steering column shaft fit into this? It would allow me to use the later wheel which seems to be more available. Also, the lower circle, any body have/source those? The one that holds the inner bearing in?

This is all that came in the box.... confused24.gif

Here's where I'm at so far, and I'm just going to use that early switch because I don't care so much about originality and which key it uses. Will the /6 plastic bezel screw onto my early switch? Anybody?

Attached Image


The lower bearing is held in place with "C" clips. The upper bearing that you have already installed has a slight interference fit. I believe that the steering wheel fits in there and removed all of the play. I believe the lower bearing is the same between 914/914/6 and 911.


-4 column parts, same bearing



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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 22 2017, 08:18 PM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Mar 22 2017, 09:28 AM) *

QUOTE(jkb944t @ Mar 22 2017, 04:52 AM) *

The electrical connections for the ignition switch and the wiper/turn signal stalks are obviously very different when converting to the 911 column.

Does anyone have a chart with the pinout locations?

Jeff B


I did a pin-out ID for the Ignition Switch; will take a pic and post later


Yes Please! That would be awesome! pray.gif

Posted by: McMark Mar 23 2017, 09:11 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 22 2017, 01:19 PM) *

Now, back to business, will a stock /4 steering shaft work inside of this column if I'm not going to use the lock mechanism?

Doesn't http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=299541&view=findpost&p=2456107 in this thread answer that question. wink.gif Just like I said... tongue.gif

Posted by: Larmo63 Mar 23 2017, 09:24 AM

"They appear interchangeable."

I just want to be sure before I buy an extra /4 shaft.

Anybody got a spare FS?

shades.gif

Posted by: McMark Mar 23 2017, 09:53 AM

Traced out one of my 911 ignition harnesses today. I'll try to keep adding these one at a time cause it's a tedious process. Next time I'll add to this spreadsheet showing where these wires would go on a 914.


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Posted by: 914forme Mar 23 2017, 10:04 AM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 23 2017, 11:24 AM) *

"They appear interchangeable."

I just want to be sure before I buy an extra /4 shaft.

Anybody got a spare FS?

shades.gif


Yeah, I have a box of them, just PM me if your serious, or Bruce does not have one. shades.gif

Posted by: jim_hoyland Mar 23 2017, 01:20 PM

Got a question: how much room behind the dash to accommodate the electrical plug? Seems like it's going to interfere with the fuse panel ?


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Posted by: McMark Mar 23 2017, 03:12 PM

Don't know exactly, but it worked in the 914-6. wink.gif

Posted by: Harpo Mar 23 2017, 04:21 PM

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Mar 23 2017, 11:20 AM) *

Got a question: how much room behind the dash to accommodate the electrical plug? Seems like it's going to interfere with the fuse panel ?


I will not have that problem as mine are quite short
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