on my 73 2.0,i would like to put a push button for starting.in my reading,i understand that i can put button between hot lead and yellow lead at solenoid.is this correct,if so what is best way to get buttons up to dash from solenoid?
Big red wire and big yellow wire at the ignition switch. Re route them to the switch.
Oh, and, don't do it.
Nuff said!
Interesting how these start buttons have evolved....
See: http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/automotive/start-button-choices
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Really old cars had foot switches mounted on the floor on the left side LOL
Actually, they were located to the right of the gas pedal. Trans in neutral, left foot on brake, right heel on gas and right toe on the starter pedal.
Our 1953 Nash had the starter switch on the floor, just under a tab that extended up from the clutch pedal. You couldn't start the car without the clutch disengaged. Flat head six, three on the tree. Beautiful.
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Yes I want to do this too. No more bent keys. .
I know it sounds hackish to some, but I've put hidden switches on a couple of my cars. A toggle for ignition/accs, and a momentary for start. Both located conveniently for me, but none visible to anyone else. It's nice to hop in and go without dealing with keys.
My old Mini had it on the floor by the seat...
Old technology. My '47 Lincoln had a push button start - turn the key on, then push button.
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Why couldnt you have the push button inline with the ignition switch? key in, turn it to on. push the button to start. and drive away?
I know its double duty, but i think at that point its form over function.
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That's how I set this one up (aftermarket ignition switch was "iffy" in the start position):
Waytek "engine start" pushbutton installed in the cigar lighter hole; no new holes or cuts or anything. "Switched +" from fuse box to push-button (hot when ignition switch is "on"), then larger yellow wire direct from pushbutton to a Ford relay on the starter.
Font/type on the switch matches pretty well too . . .
Hope this helps.
The crank position flows more current through the switch contacts then other electrical loads, and it fails sooner than the On or Accessory switch positions.
Why not? What's the cost of a new ignition switch/steer. wheel lock? Autozone ...... Autozone wants $800.00 :-O.
Just need the contact section? That's only about $30, but not sure you want to go to the trouble of accessing it (pretty straightforward though).
I'm planning on installing a separate crank button.
Sherwood
I have a push button on mine and have found it extremely useful. Prime the engine after it's been sitting a while or any other reason to crank it over with the key off.
Using this one: https://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!Duty-Push-Button-Switch/p_8065
^^ My 914-V8 had that same type ^^
It never let me down.
My gas snow blower had a push start.....
Heck these days just being a standard is a theft deterrent.
Papa Smurf has a push start and two switches: one for the starter and one for 'everything else' including the ECU. Flip starter switch, push button and develop oil pressure without ignition to prime the oil system, then flip ECU switch, start the car.
Good habit for race engines and cars that sit for a while.
(damn those screws look rusty!!)
I did not see this mentioned, so ...
One of the things the standard Ignition/Starter Switch does is prevent engaging the starter after the engine has been started. Once you turn the key to the start position you have to turn it back to off to turn it to start again.
So if you install a push button start switch mount it where it is not likely to get bumped while driving and don't push it while the engine is running.
It can be bad for the starters and flywheel to be engaged while the engine is running.
Jim
I put starter button in my dash , only works with the key on , it helps when you stall the
car and you don't have to turn the key off & back on ( just push button ) , it also runs through a relay ,
I've been running it for a couple years Bill D.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=252391&hl=
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