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Posted by: 80cap Jan 22 2017, 08:36 AM

I read all the brake bleeding threads and I am still not getting a pedal.
I have the pressure bleeder, PMB,rebuilt calipers,new stainless lines, 19mm master cylinder, so all should be good to go. The only part I haven't replaced is the pressure regulator. Today we are going to try again, so any ideas from the members is more than appreciated. I been doing brakes a long time and have never had any problems before.
Just never did a 914 before.
Brian

Posted by: zach914v8 Jan 22 2017, 08:49 AM

QUOTE(80cap @ Jan 22 2017, 08:36 AM)

I read all the brake bleeding threads and I am still not getting a pedal.
I have the pressure bleeder, PMB,rebuilt calipers,new stainless lines, 19mm master cylinder, so all should be good to go. The only part I haven't replaced is the pressure regulator. Today we are going to try again, so any ideas from the members is more than appreciated. I been doing brakes a long time and have never had any problems before.
Just never did a 914 before.
Brian

Posted by: 80cap Jan 22 2017, 09:31 AM

I'm not sure if it is a uro part. How can I identify it or not. I bought it off Ebay I think.
Brian

Posted by: zach914v8 Jan 22 2017, 10:03 AM

If it was cheap (like65-90) and it was from ebay, odds are its a URO. I have had a bad one out of the box before for a jag. I don't trust URO parts. The master may or may not be your problem. One way to find out is crack one line barely open at the master and have someone in the car slowly push the brake pedal to the floor. If fluid comes out in decent volume on each port your master is probably ok. Once the person in the car gets to the bottom of travel have them hold the pedal down and re sung the line you are working on. If you re snug with the pedal up you can capture air.


Also, do this with each line a few times. The master could be good but maybe air is trapped in the in it. You can do this process a few times and see if and bubbles come out.

I am sure someone here will chime in with more knowledge. Brakes can be tricky on these cars.

Posted by: 80cap Jan 22 2017, 10:14 AM

Zach
It wasn't cheap,I will try checking the flow again today.
Brian

Posted by: Boomingbeetle Jan 22 2017, 10:56 AM

Ive never done the master in my teener, but I've done plenty of aftermarket masters in old muscle cars. The problem 75% of the time is the pushrod into the master is not the right length. Especially if you're going from a single reservoir to dual zone (front/rear).

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 22 2017, 11:30 AM

http://www.pmbperformance.com/faq-common-questions.html#169964

Posted by: 80cap Jan 22 2017, 04:31 PM

I have thrown in the towel! I must have a bad master cylinder. I will give PMB a call in the morning.
90% done 90% to go.

Posted by: motorvated Jan 22 2017, 05:11 PM

QUOTE(80cap @ Jan 22 2017, 03:31 PM)

I have thrown in the towel! I must have a bad master cylinder. I will give PMB a call in the morning.
90% done 90% to go.

Posted by: 80cap Jan 23 2017, 08:06 AM

QUOTE(motorvated @ Jan 22 2017, 07:11 PM)

QUOTE(80cap @ Jan 22 2017, 03:31 PM)

I have thrown in the towel! I must have a bad master cylinder. I will give PMB a call in the morning.
90% done 90% to go.

I agree with Boomingbeetle. I swapped my 17 mm mc with a 19 mm and bled, and bled, and bled ... until I adjusted the pushrod going into the new mc. Once I did that, I had a firm pedal. You might want to try that before claiming that your mc is bad. Just my 2 cents.

Posted by: BillC Jan 23 2017, 09:33 AM

I recently had a problem with an NOS 17mm master cylinder that went bad just sitting on a shelf -- it wouldn't pump up, and then later started leaking from the rear end (the end where the pushrod goes). Replaced it with a new one from PMB, and no more problems.

On a bittersweet note, I've gotten pretty good at installing the feed lines and grommets on top of the MC.

Posted by: Travis Neff Jan 23 2017, 05:16 PM

Skip the motive bleeder and get a 2nd person to pump the brakes while you bleed.