I'm sure this has probably been covered but I searched and couldn't find anything.
Anyone got any tips on the R&R of the rear trunk lid, hinges, and torsion bars? Going to replace the rollers while I'm at it. I think I've seen some bronze ones over the years ....anyone got a source?
Thanks.
It covered in the classic threads and here a couple of times if you search.
You can get the metal rollers from Pelican I think and also 914 rubber in metal and I think nylon.
I think it is a two person job.
The are a lot of threads and different techniques.
I did mine with a 30-inch piece of ¾ or 5/8 inch OD tube, maybe 11ga? and a cheap 1/2 in drive breaker bar and a packing blanket.
I opened the trunk, folded the packing blanket, and stuffed it between the front edge of the trunk and the engine grill.
I loosened all 4 bolts then took off one side. I rested it vertically on the folded blanket, crawled inside the trunk over to the other side while holding the unbolted side to keep it from slipping. I then unbolted the other side with one hand.
Its probably easier—and safer to not do it alone,
Then I took the screw out of the 1/2in breaker bar and removed the pivoting square drive piece.
I held the breaker bar vertically and put the U-shaped end over the torsion bar between the roller and the torsion bar mount in the engine compartment (1). Then I put the screw back in.
Levering the bar forward (2) allows you to lever the torsion bar off the bottom of the roller and move it slightly inward (3). Then I tilted it back toward the back of the car to release the tension (4). Once it was clear of the roller, I took the tube, fit it over the end of the torsion bar (5), and let it untwist all the way to the back until the tension was off (6). Then I repeated on the other side. Reverse to install.
I've done a mod on the shoulder bolts. I wish I had pics. Drill down the center of the shoulder bolt and tap for grease fitting, chuck shoulder bolt and make groove to intersect, then drill small hole in the groove.
Now's a good time to make sure the welds on the pivots are good and the pivots aren't stress cracked.
BTW, did you ever source an oil pipe?
Is your intent to remove and replace, r&r, or delete the torsion rods entirely?
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I used the internal search and couldn't find what I was looking for. My intent is to check everything out and replace the rollers and the torsion rods. My brother-in-law came over last night to help me remove the decklid so I'll take the suggestions above and do the R&R on the other components as well. Once again, this forum is great!
If your engine cover opens weakly with not enough torsion spring power, here's a simple and easy fix. Just take a one inch section of half inch diameter delron rod and drill a quarter inch hole through it. Then pry the end of the torsion bar up with a screwdriver and slide the plastic tube on it. The tension on the rod will keep the spacer in place, and you can sequentially add up to four spacers total, one on each end of both rods maximum. That way you can increase opening power as you add each spacer and decide when it's opening power is just right. This picture shows you the plan.
I built a tool like North Coast Jim many years ago. Can't reiterate enough, keep your fingers out of the way.
Wear a thick set of welding gloves when you take the tension out of the torsion bars. They still hold tension through about 180 degrees of rotation before they finally start to go slack. Can really eF up your hands if it slips.
amfab,
Thanks for the suggestion. It turns out that one of the breaker bars I have has a threaded pin so it was really easy to take it apart and use it as suggested. Worked like a charm!
Thanks.
Many thanks to North Coast Jim for providing the plans for his 'Torsion Bar Loading Tool'. I'm not sure how soon I'll need it but I'm glad to have it ready for when the time comes.
Bump
Doug,
Before you remove the four plates, you need to use some sort of tool to lever the end of the torsion rods off the rollers and into their most relaxed state. Then you can remove the hold down plates safely.
Thanks so much for the clarification!!!
Resurrecting this thread because when I tried the tool I made it was too thin and bent. So I finally had time last weekend to make a second one and weld the two together. It's now 5/16" thick and plenty solid to move the torsion bar without deforming. Just wanted to update for anyone else that decides to make the tool to ensure they get it thick enough.
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