Can someone with experience describe the milling tolerances needed to gain clearance on a 914-6 (3.0) with Turbo Valve covers. My jangled understanding is that in order to be able to do a valve tune, one must remove material from the raised fins on the Turbo covers / lower obviously?..
Also, can valve covers withstand the heat involved in powdercoating?
Yes, powdercoating is fine. I believe I had 5/8 milled off the fins
Did you see the recommendation earlier this week on another post regarding this topic that suggested replacing the offending locking nuts with cap head allen screws and spring & flat washer combinations since the torque values are so low?
I thought it was a really good suggestion to keep from having to mill the web on the covers and plan on ordering the needed hardware as soon as I pull a stud and get a measurement on the proper length.....unless someone reads this who already knows and is willing to enlighten us.
I like the new bolt verses nut-n-stud (cap screw) idea / if one doesn't need to mill. Ethan?
No, you don't use bolts for that application. Porsche used studs for a reason.
Also the correct milling procedure is to not install them until the motor is in the car
Then you mill them to install.
If you mill them enough to go on then you know they will come off
Every chassis is a little different tolerance. And motors can vary minutely also
I really like Brant's suggested method and the reasoning. Valve adjustments are done every 15000 miles on my 3.2 and I have not milled the turbo covers yet. Had the engine out several times to re-seal and transmission repair; gave it a general look see and adjusted valves then. What a pain just to adjust the valves.
Making my next project the valve cover milling.
The naro motorsports pivoting engine mount makes dropping the engine so much easier. It's more like opening a door vs taking it off its hinges.
I just milled all the fins off leaving about an 1/8".
Looks clean and doesn't hurt the strength of the turbo cover.
BTW if you already have SC covers the turbo covers are a waste of money, only the earlier mag covers were leakers.
I collected every discarded pair of SC lowers I could...
no turbo covers for me
I've taken 5/16" off the entire top of the ribs, and that's worked.
I will get the Turbo covers and use Brant's method. Thanks for the idea.
Damn you guys are good.
I will go the Perry Kiehl route once the engine is in and I can remill if needed.
Thanks guys.
In the 'for what it's worth' department, here are some shots of my covers and somewhat crude milling/filing I did 2 years ago . You have to look close on some of them; there wasn't all that much that needed to be removed. This a stock factory -6.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)