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Posted by: JRust Jan 30 2017, 11:19 PM

Okay this has been a long time coming. I am finally going to pull my incredible, reliable, powerfully awesome 158 hp NA 2.5 Subaru Drivetrain. In goes my new 2.5 Subaru Turbo motor out of a 2009 Forester XT. I will be pushing 220 plus depending on if I upgrade my turbo over the stock one. Pretty sure I am sticking with stock to start. That is a pretty easy bolt on upgrade later. I have a 2004 WRX 5speed tranny to mate up to it. Will be doing a firewall engine mount connecting to a Small car motor mount. Tranny ears for the back. Using Outfront header to move the turbo around the front of the motor. Outfront Wiring harness to the Stinger ECU. Still need to figure out the intercooler but staying in the engine bay under a GT grill. More details to follow but plan to pull my old drivetrain this weekend.

Okay so plans have changed & I am going to be putting in this 2005 WRX motor with 55k on it. My 2.5 will go in eventually but my plans are to build it out a little more. Going to get a larger turbo for it & other odds & ends to push 400hp with it. So this 2.0 motor will be pushing 220 easy & looks great


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Posted by: Krieger Jan 30 2017, 11:55 PM

That will be a very nice bump in power!

Posted by: matthepcat Jan 31 2017, 12:03 AM

Close to 300 with just a Cobb tune and a bell mouth down pipe. About 15-16 Psi

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 31 2017, 12:17 AM

You've been thinking about this for awhile I know - great to see you finally getting to it!
I agree with Matt. The downpipe you'll need to do anyway and the Cobb Accessport is the way to go! For as often as you'll use full boost, upgrading the turbo may not be necessary where you build your exhaust around the downpipe. Just don't starve out your fuel ratio and you're good to go - congratulations!

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 31 2017, 12:39 AM

What are you going to do for the intercooler?

Will it be done for the WCR?


This will be fun!

Posted by: Front yard mechanic Jan 31 2017, 07:00 AM

That is a good looking car! Worth the effort

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 31 2017, 09:11 AM

I get everything your doing except starting this at the beginning of the 914 season. Come to think of it, I began my conversion in the Spring as well.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 31 2017, 09:21 AM

Jamie, I read your add in the classifieds and it appears your offering everything that is needed for a swap except the radiator and axels. I have a set of Coldwater 914 axles that I would be willing to sell to help someone complete the conversion.

Ray

Posted by: Chris H. Jan 31 2017, 09:43 AM

So you got it. Nice. Still going back and forth with that Vanagon dude (don't ask y'all...I'll post it in my Van thread if it works out ).

Hey if anyone is looking for a good NA engine Jamie's has some nice upgrades. It's got extra oomph but nothing that would affect reliability at all. I talked to the PO before he sold the car just to ask what was up with it. Perfect starter engine.

Jamie I'd stick with the stock turbo since it's free anyway. Then turn it up when you get used to the power and want more. What ECU are you running it with? EMS again or the stock ECU? There are a lot of solutions for the electronics. NASIOC is probably the best place for that.

Posted by: JRust Jan 31 2017, 01:12 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jan 30 2017, 10:39 PM)

What are you going to do for the intercooler?
Probably rolling with the stock setup but I know jack about intercoolers. I need to look into this more than any other part of the conversion at this point
Will it be done for the WCR?
#Yesmabyeihopethehellso
This will be fun!
Most definately

Posted by: rhodyguy Jan 31 2017, 01:20 PM

I wish I had known you were going to sell the 2.5 3 months ago. I would have held on to the legacy instead of basically giving it away.

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 31 2017, 01:33 PM

If you put an external water mister that activates on boost you should be fine with the stock intercooler for moderate boost levels.. You can also go with W/M injection post intercooler which would do a lot of good but the expense level is higher.

Or you can go with an air to water intercooler log if you plan on keeping the power at or under 300hp. Should be plenty of cooling for that power level.

Posted by: 914forme Jan 31 2017, 02:31 PM

Stock IC is fine even with out the mister. I would do a water to air though. http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-intercooler/?osCsid=dc147e60fd1fcd1fe5ced19f95451eaf makes some kist for this, not sure why your limited to 300HP, just get a bigger sized unit.

It has been discussed several times thou, and well every one has done them a bit different. PorSTI uses an air to air intercooler, Scott says he gets temp creep if sitting a long time. It cools right back down once he is rolling. Spending some time in that car, I know it can move. Gray Matter is a water to Air unit, we will see how that one turns out.

Good luck with the build and engine sale

Posted by: arne Jan 31 2017, 02:33 PM

Starting this weekend, Jamie? I guess we won't see any 'teens at coffee in Eugene this Saturday, either. I don't think we've had any show up since that time you and your buddies drove down.

Will be interesting to watch progress in this thread. I like seeing this kind of thing when I have seen the car in person before.

Posted by: JRust Jan 31 2017, 03:02 PM

QUOTE(arne @ Jan 31 2017, 12:33 PM)

Posted by: arne Jan 31 2017, 03:49 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 31 2017, 01:02 PM)

QUOTE(arne @ Jan 31 2017, 12:33 PM)

Starting this weekend, Jamie? I guess we won't see any 'teens at coffee in Eugene this Saturday, either. I don't think we've had any show up since that time you and your buddies drove down.

Will be interesting to watch progress in this thread. I like seeing this kind of thing when I have seen the car in person before.

When is it Arne? I might be up for coming down before I tear into it. I wanted to do a video of it running & driving anyway.

Posted by: JRust Jan 31 2017, 08:41 PM

QUOTE(arne @ Jan 31 2017, 01:49 PM)

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 31 2017, 08:57 PM

You should do some performance runs. 20-60, 40-80 ect.

Torque app on your phone will do it just on location alone if you dont have an obd port.

Posted by: JRust Jan 31 2017, 09:05 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jan 31 2017, 06:57 PM)

You should do some performance runs. 20-60, 40-80 ect.

Torque app on your phone will do it just on location alone if you dont have an obd port.

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 1 2017, 09:51 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 31 2017, 07:05 PM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jan 31 2017, 06:57 PM)

You should do some performance runs. 20-60, 40-80 ect.

Torque app on your phone will do it just on location alone if you dont have an obd port.

Good plan. Actually my speed hut gauge will do a 0-60 come to think of it. I need to look up how to do that. Only know that because Ray mentioned they do it. LOL didn't even know my gauges had the capability

Posted by: Andyrew Feb 1 2017, 09:57 AM

Personally I dont like doing comparison runs with a launch. To many variables. Thats why I like 20-60, or in my car 40-80 or 60-120 as I dont get traction in the lower speeds.

Posted by: JRust Feb 1 2017, 10:24 AM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Feb 1 2017, 07:57 AM)

Posted by: Andyrew Feb 1 2017, 11:23 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 1 2017, 08:24 AM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Feb 1 2017, 07:57 AM)

Personally I dont like doing comparison runs with a launch. To many variables. Thats why I like 20-60, or in my car 40-80 or 60-120 as I dont get traction in the lower speeds.

I hear you. Not something I'm overly worried about by any means. Just want to show possible owners what the drivetrain is capable of. Was good to get it out on the road for a change. Been a few months since I have driven it. Just hoping weather holds out so I can get some good video saturday. I think I may skip the 60-120 one though Andrew. LOL! maybe with my new drivetrain I'll do that one

Posted by: JRust Feb 1 2017, 11:13 PM

Dang that was fast Rich is buying my drivetrain. So it is full steam ahead now. I am pulling the drivetrain this Saturday. Need to go through all the wiring with a fine tooth comb. My original wiring diagram needs redone for the new owner. My original one has changed when I did my new ECU. Anyway time to move on from my NA 2.5.

Time for my 2009 2.5 Turbo motor from a subaru forester XT. I did a thread when I got it. Basically the car was Tboned. Guy bought it for the front clip to fix his wife's car. Turned out he knew the guy who owned the car before. In talking to him he found out there was a recall on the motor in his car. He got factory replacement motor at 70k. So my motor has a mere 15k on it. My plan is to relocate the turbo to the front of the motor using Outfront motorsports header. It does mean I need to flip my intake or get a different one. Only because I want to setup a/c & there isn't the space to flip it & have all the accessories on the belt.

Posted by: Costa05 Feb 2 2017, 12:02 AM

Sounds like we both have builds to do. Glad to be hooked up with a good/sound entry level suby swap to begin with. Good history, good seller.
Rich

Posted by: JRust Feb 2 2017, 12:33 AM

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Feb 1 2017, 10:02 PM)

Posted by: Costa05 Feb 2 2017, 08:38 AM

I will need to let the PO know his chariot has been given a new identity. See attached Craigslist Ad. Its hilarious.



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 1973_Porsche_914_CL_Ad_red.pdf ( 1.73mb ) Number of downloads: 169

Posted by: JRust Feb 2 2017, 11:05 PM

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Feb 2 2017, 06:38 AM)

Posted by: arne Feb 2 2017, 11:29 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 2 2017, 09:05 PM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 2 2017, 11:58 PM

QUOTE(arne @ Feb 2 2017, 09:29 PM)

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 2 2017, 09:05 PM)

Well Arne I am going to just tear into my car Saturday I think. Another drive may just put me off. I am inspired to get my drivetrain out & off to Rich. I take a drive Saturday the 45min down to Cars & Coffee. I am more likely to stretch that drive out longer. So I better just buckle down & get my heater going in my shop. Going to be a cold day so think I'll clean up some while I let it heat up. Then pull my car in & get busy.

Well, then I guess I'm going to need to come to you to bounce ideas off of you. Will touch bases with you soon.

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 3 2017, 09:45 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 1 2017, 09:13 PM)

Posted by: arne Feb 3 2017, 10:52 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 2 2017, 09:58 PM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2017, 12:27 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 3 2017, 07:45 AM)

Which route are you going w/ the AC install?

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 3 2017, 03:17 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 3 2017, 10:27 AM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 3 2017, 07:45 AM)

Which route are you going w/ the AC install?

I have my core unit in the fresh air box which McMark built for me. The condenser is there in front of my radiator already. The compressor will just be in the stock spot on my motor. So I just need to run my lines. Wasn't sure where I plan to run my lines. Considered just going through the center tunnel with them. Possible down the side of the longs like the oil lines typically are run. I just remember you bought all the stuff to make your own lines. So figured you are my new best friend

Posted by: whitetwinturbo Feb 4 2017, 01:43 PM

Posted by: JRust Feb 4 2017, 02:06 PM

Okay well I've got a few picture. First 2 are of my 09 2.5 turbo motor on the stand. Then my car on the rack & an underside picture from the back. I've got to go do a few things now so plan to pull the motor in a few hours


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Posted by: JRust Feb 5 2017, 10:45 AM

Didn't make to much progress yesterday. Ended up having a busy afternoon. Went out for a while in the evening. Got may radiator lines drained. Unplugged a few things. Went to take off the outer CV's & 3 out of my 8 bolts were stripped. Anyone have a good trick for getting those? I have the official 8mm starred bit to pull them. I did not strip them trying to pull them. That was left for me unfortunately . So after a while I gave up & called it a night. Hope to go out for a while before the super bowl but we'll see

Posted by: Mike Bellis Feb 5 2017, 11:07 AM

Cut the heads off with a grinder. Once the head is off, they usually spin out by hand if the PO didn't put thread locker on them.

Posted by: JRust Feb 5 2017, 12:57 PM

QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Feb 5 2017, 09:07 AM)

Posted by: 914forme Feb 5 2017, 01:03 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2017, 11:45 AM)

Didn't make to much progress yesterday. Ended up having a busy afternoon. Went out for a while in the evening. Got may radiator lines drained. Unplugged a few things. Went to take off the outer CV's & 3 out of my 8 bolts were stripped. Anyone have a good trick for getting those? I have the official 8mm starred bit to pull them. I did not strip them trying to pull them. That was left for me unfortunately . So after a while I gave up & called it a night. Hope to go out for a while before the super bowl but we'll see

Posted by: JRust Feb 5 2017, 02:29 PM

My motor plans are changing. I picked up there 2005 wrx 2.0 motor. I bought this motor originally 3 years ago. Then had the wreck in my car. Ended up selling it to help pay for repairs. Brent was prepping it for his car when his plans changed. So given the opportunity I bought it back. My 09 2.5 will have more power especially low end. So it will go in my car eventually. But for now this motor is just to damned sweet it needs to go in my car. Plus has everything needed to do so. Only thing I am missing is the exhaust from the turbo back. Plus a cradle or firewall mount. Still debating between the 2


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Posted by: Chris914n6 Feb 5 2017, 02:59 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2017, 10:57 AM)

QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Feb 5 2017, 09:07 AM)

Cut the heads off with a grinder. Once the head is off, they usually spin out by hand if the PO didn't put thread locker on them.

How do you cut them off Inside your trailing arm?

Posted by: JRust Feb 5 2017, 05:07 PM

You shut your mouth Chris . Yeah I can do that. I have always just gotten those bolts out. I plan to now as well. I will do that if I give up on the bolts but I'll get them out.

Posted by: matthepcat Feb 6 2017, 01:36 AM

Decided on the EJ20 huh? What turbo is that?

Posted by: JRust Feb 6 2017, 12:15 PM

QUOTE(matthepcat @ Feb 5 2017, 11:36 PM)

Posted by: Chris914n6 Feb 6 2017, 01:08 PM

I never mess with those bolts. Too much PITA. R&R with the stub is just so much quicker and easier.

I prefer to waste time with overly complicated things like the Nissan gauge cluster swap.

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2017, 03:07 PM)

You shut your mouth Chris . Yeah I can do that. I have always just gotten those bolts out. I plan to now as well. I will do that if I give up on the bolts but I'll get them out.

Posted by: JRust Feb 10 2017, 04:33 PM

Okay didn't do much this week as work kept me busy late most nights. Tomorrow Rich's drive train is coming out of my car. I'll update with some pictures once it is out.

Posted by: dangerranger01 Feb 11 2017, 02:33 PM

Your car is going to rock! I'd love to have a setup like what this is going to be.

Posted by: JRust Feb 11 2017, 06:13 PM

I've got my old drivetrain out! Here are pics of it out off the cradle. I've got an oil pump to replace on my motor that was leaking. So have that to do this week. Cleaning everything up from the oil leak. Then bolting it all back together so it is ready for Rich to bolt right back it. Took me about 3 hours today to do it. Went slow & took more off than needed to get it out. Taking lots of pics as I go. Marking all the wires & what connected where. Managed to pull one sensor to my gauges out. just the wires about half way. Easy fix just missed it & pinched it when I pulled the motor. Guess it wouldn't be a motor pull without me missing at least one wire


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Posted by: strawman Feb 11 2017, 10:32 PM

Good job Jamie; keep up the great work. I'm jealous of our "fleet" of turbo Suby engines. What, are you trying to corner the market?!?! I'm watching your progess closely.

Posted by: JRust Feb 12 2017, 02:47 PM

QUOTE(strawman @ Feb 11 2017, 08:32 PM)

Posted by: strawman Feb 12 2017, 06:51 PM

I am using a Type 13 water-air intercooler from FrozenBoost. It is supposedly good for up to 450CFM/350hp. Here is a http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-213.html to the one I'm using. It has good reviews across the interwebs, and it is pretty inexpensive. In fact, I spent more on tubing, silicon connectors, clamps, a junkyard pump from an BMW E34, and 3/4" rubber hose than I did on the actual intercooler.

Posted by: JRust Feb 12 2017, 06:59 PM

QUOTE(strawman @ Feb 12 2017, 04:51 PM)

Posted by: strawman Feb 12 2017, 11:17 PM

Definitely use a separate cooling system to cool the intake charge; the engine coolant runs too hot. I run a heat exchanger in front of the radiator and pump air-water coolant using a Bosch contactless pump. These are easiy junkyards finds in '90s BMW 5- and 7-series as a heater booster pump; the Ford factory-supercharged Mustang Cobras use the exact same pump for its air-water intercooler.

Posted by: Andyrew Feb 13 2017, 12:56 PM

My intercooler is about twice that size and I mounted it just behind the driver. I use the Bosch pump as well but its probably overkill. For how cool it runs a simply $20 12v pump would be fine. The radiator is in the drivers rear fender, but could have easily been anywhere under the rear trunk. I have a fan connected to a temp controller but I dont think it has ever came on. IAT's stay between 40 and 45C at a max.

Posted by: JRust Feb 13 2017, 02:30 PM

Hey Geoff what clutch are you running. Stage one says its good to 300. Stage 2 says like 360. I should be in the 230-250 range. Just curious if I need a stage one or 2. Hate to get the stage 1 & have slippage despite what they say it can handle.

Was looking at this setup http://www.ebay.com/itm/111943125887?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Most the kits have a lightened flywheel. Do you recommend an OEM over a lightened ?

Posted by: 914forme Feb 13 2017, 07:25 PM

lightened is fine your car weighs a lot less than say the Forrester it came out of.

Posted by: strawman Feb 13 2017, 07:51 PM

I'm not the guy to ask, since I've got a sum total of about 5 miles on my 914 so far. My donor car's engine came with a Fidanza lightweight flywheel and high-performance clutch, and it has no problem idling, no gear chatter (maybe my exhaust is too loud?!?!), or taking off from a dead stop in my teener. As Stephen mentioned above, our cars are light so you don't need the mass of a heavy flywheel to drive it smoothly.

I run an F1 Racing stage 1 clutch and lightened Cro-Mo flywheel in my M3-swapped BMW 318ti. It has a little gear clatter when idling, especially with the A/C on. But I'll live with that because it revs SOOOO freely...

Posted by: JRust Feb 13 2017, 08:13 PM

Sounds like the stage one should be fine then. I'll roll with that. Was surprised they were so reasonable on pricing. I'm going to go ahead & order it. Could use some misc bolts. Wonder if they make a kit with subaru hardware? I don't have the flywheel bolts. I am sure there will be plenty of odds & ends for nuts/bolts.

Posted by: mgp4591 Feb 14 2017, 12:58 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 13 2017, 07:13 PM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 14 2017, 12:18 PM

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Feb 13 2017, 10:58 PM)

You'll probably be fine with that one, but consider what upgrades you may want to make in the future. If the price is still reasonable, there's no issue with being overly prepared...

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 14 2017, 12:21 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 14 2017, 10:18 AM)

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Feb 13 2017, 10:58 PM)

You'll probably be fine with that one, but consider what upgrades you may want to make in the future. If the price is still reasonable, there's no issue with being overly prepared...

When I upgrade it will be another complete drivetrain swap . I'm turning into Mike Bellis

I ordered that setup last night. It should be just fine but we will see. Will be pretty easy to swap to a heavier clutch if it slips. Now I need to find the thread for the size hose I need for my hydraulic clutch

Posted by: JRust Feb 19 2017, 05:54 PM

Haven't made much progress. Got some bug over the weekend so spent it pretty much sleeping & watching tv. I did get the locking spool, rear plate & tranny hangars on. Hopefully next weekend I'll feel better. Still need to get my old motor on a pallet & shipped.

Then I'm going to put my new setup on my hydraulic table. Put it up in my engine bay. Attach the tranny hangar's. Then measure things out with my motor. I've got some decisions to make. I either build another cradle. Do the firewall mount done by a few here. I have the small car mount on it. Then once it is in place. I am going to see about just making something close to the stock early motor mount bar. I've just got to see how everything lines up.

I'm waiting on my new clutch kit. Also the An3 lines for the clutch. I also need to pull my pedal cluster. Get the plate installed & hole drilled for the MC for clutch.


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Posted by: JRust Mar 3 2017, 12:24 AM

Okay a little progress. Took a me a bit but I got my old drivetrain shipped off to Rick. Bolted up my tranny to my new motor. Wanted to do a little test fitting tonight. With my tranny hangar's bolted to the tranny. I bolted the rear in place. My header is just hitting my battery mount which is lower on the firewall. I think it will still work there. Just may need to be unbolted & then put back on with my motor is in place. Probably the least of my worries at this point.

A few years ago when I was working on a subaru conversion before buying this one. I was using a 901 with an adapter plate to the motor I had. I had a small car mount on the suby motor with a tab welded on the front. It joined the mount in front & gave a nice flat surface. I was able to use an early stock 914 engine bar as well as the rubber motor mounts. I am looking to do something similar here. My small car mount sits pretty level with my headers. My shortened oil pan sits about an inch & a half below these headers. Using a stock engine bar it will sit level with my oil pan. Just need to add a piece to the small car mount that will let it mount on the engine bar. I'll post some pics when I've got it done. For anyone running the headers out back this would work even better.


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Posted by: JRust Mar 9 2017, 09:12 PM

Did a little more test fitting. With the tranny hangar's it sits a little low. It can go up another inch at the least & I think closer to 2. Compared to my previous cradle & tranny setup. Which definitely sat up higher. Where it sits now I wouldn't need the cutout for the starter & clutch fork. I would rather have it sitting up higher even if it means a small cutout in the truck. Of course I also have the cuts already so only makes sense to keep it that way. Things do line up nicely to use an early stock engine bar. With a little customized piece attaching to the front of the small car motor mounts.

Anyway thats all I have time for. Heading to Dallas for a week for work. Then a stop in Phoenix to golf & catch a spring training game or 2. Plus a bonus I get to meet Rich. He bought my original suby drivetrain. So we'll get to talk 914's & conversions for a bit next Friday morning. Couple pics of it up in place. I also put the intake back to stock. Was going to flip it but that won't work with me doing A/C. Won't be to big a deal on the intake. I'll just use a similar bend to what I had before. Instead of it going to an air filter it will got to my Intercooler. Just going to start with the stock air intercooler & see what kind of results I get. Most likely will end up with a different intercooler setup. For my initial install it will be fine.


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Posted by: matthepcat Mar 9 2017, 10:23 PM

Looks great. You should consider water to air for the inter-cooler (I know you are thinking that).

I'm curious why the A/C wont work with a flipped intake manifold?

Posted by: JRust Mar 9 2017, 10:50 PM

QUOTE(matthepcat @ Mar 9 2017, 08:23 PM)

Posted by: Chris914n6 Mar 9 2017, 11:04 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Mar 9 2017, 07:12 PM)

Posted by: JRust Mar 10 2017, 12:02 AM

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Mar 9 2017, 09:04 PM)

Flip the mount and assemble it correctly and it looks like you'll be golden.
Can you clock the turbo bearing assm to get the oil lines to clear everything?

Posted by: 76-914 Mar 10 2017, 10:29 AM

Looking good Jamie. You'll enjoy the AC. No reason to not have AC in the 21st Century with your set up.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 20 2017, 12:54 PM

Jamie, are you smoking the tires off the rims yet? Please tell me the reason you haven't posted since March is because you are to busy driving the wheels off that car.

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 20 2017, 01:27 PM

I think you should triangulate those rear trani mounts, or weld in a bolt in bar that connects the two. I have a feeling that the trani is going to sway side to side like that. I originally had mine like that then added a brace as I could move it by hand some and knew that over time that would cause a stress fracture in the steel or transmission mount.


Love the progress BTW!

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 20 2017, 01:37 PM

He's probably gnawing at the bits as we speak. I think Jamie's hands are currently bound with the purchase of a new home and all. Otherwise, I'd have added Jamie to my Slacker thread along with Stephen.

Posted by: JRust Jul 31 2017, 11:24 PM

Well not a whole hell of a lot of progress. Bought a house. Now remodeling said house. = no time to work on my car. Nor money to boot. I did happen to get my cradle from Ian at Coldwater. I took it to Linex to Bedline it. Got it back & it looks great. I also ordered the cable shift system from Xero Decibel Motorsports.

Here is the order I hope to get to things.
1. Install my hydraulic clutch MC with it's bracket.
2. Make hydraulic line
3. Get my stage 2 clutch installed.
4. Mate the transmission back up to the motor.
5. Install drivetrain
6. Wire ECU
7. Take to muffler shop for Exhaust
8. Fire it up & hopefully smile from ear to ear

Only thing holding me back is my damn kitchen. Was to small & cramped. So I took out a wall & worthless pantry. Picked up some more kitchen cabinets for the expansion. In taking out sheetrock I found the stairs that sit behind my kitchen wall. There is a nice big area with nothing there. I have a nice 36x36x6 feet tall space. Then a large area below the stairs. So now I'm putting a Pantry in that corner with will be much bigger & more useful than the one I had originally. Plus still expanding my kitchen. Then all new wood flooring to replace some ugly carpet. All of which means I am busy after work every night & on the weekends. Plus has demolished my car fund . In the end my wife better be damn happy


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Posted by: 914forme Aug 1 2017, 05:51 AM

Why is number 7 before number 8.

F number 7 until number 8 happens.

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 1 2017, 07:47 AM

Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now .

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 1 2017, 10:06 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 1 2017, 06:47 AM)

Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now .

Posted by: JRust Aug 1 2017, 10:52 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 1 2017, 06:47 AM)

Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now .

Posted by: jimkelly Aug 2 2017, 02:32 PM

ditto - thanks for suggestion on later starter and its pn

my starter from 1990 legacy mt and it looks like my starter won't be a problem but i will have to probably cut trunk for clutch arm and clutch cable.


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Posted by: JRust Feb 1 2018, 07:41 PM

Okay I haven't done jack since I moved to our new home in June. This saturday I plan to install my MC for my hydraulic clutch. Just a little progress but I need to start somewhere. If I can get that done maybe I will feel inspired to do more. Need to unbolt my tranny & install my clutch too. So I am posting this so you can alll give me grief if it doesn't happen

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 1 2018, 08:47 PM

I'll give you a pat on the back for jumping back in. Smart approach, too! Start on a "not to hard" and work your way back into it. There are enough items that you can bounce around. It happens quickly and you'll back into it soon. How is the fuel pump controlled with that turbo engine. Does your aftermarket ECU control the fuel pressure? If your engine requires the FP controller, I have an extra one somewhere. Good to see you jumping back in.

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2018, 12:17 PM

Okay now I know why I haven't done squat since I moved. My shop space dropped 2/3rds when I moved. While I got rid of a bunch of 914 crap I had built up I didn't have space for. I still have to much crap in my space. All the parts I have for my car are buried in totes from my move. I spent 10 minutes pulling my pedal cluster. I've spent the last hour scouring through totes to find my hydraulic bracket. Of which I know I have 2. I have 2 full setups for this conversion. 1 new Wildwood MC(found), 1 new Honda MC(not found), 2 new reservoirs (found). I can't find the MC conversion bracket's. I've got about 3 more lg totes to look through. They are just buried on a shelf 9ft off the ground & weren't light when I manhandled them up there. I got parts spread all over my workable space now. So looking like today will be spent trying to get my shop area more organized so I can find what I need. Then have space to work again after. ARGH! I really hate not having a shop separate from our garage. Everyone just fills the garage with whatever the hell they don't want (yeah thats mostly my wife). I can probably spend the entire day trying to organize it & not feel much better about it when I'm done. I still have to much stuff for to little space. I will always be fighting to make space to do anything.

About the only positive this morning is I found my set of Boxster brake Calipers. Along with a pair of the adapters to make them work. Although I can't remember if the adapters are for the front or rear. I think the front. Really was a waste of my money as I already have the 944 Brembo turbo calipers up front already. I don't think these are any larger. Probably should just sell these

Posted by: A&P Mech Feb 3 2018, 01:15 PM

Jamie, I can fix this situation for you. We trade cars. My running SIX for your roller. Straight across. Seriously though, I love your car and hope to see it on the road again soon! It is very hard for me to get motivated to work in my shop if I can't find anything or if I have to work around stuff that is being stored in the garage. I totally understand! But with that said, we are cheering for you, summer is coming so get your ass in the garage and get that beautiful car back on the road!

Posted by: six Feb 3 2018, 06:43 PM

Jamie,
I was beginning to wonder if the project was stalled out.
I’m glad to see that you have started to make some progress again abit with what appears some frustration on your garage space and the stuff piled up in it.
Give me a call if you come across a task that requires a second person as I would be happy to take a short road trip up your way to help out.

Jim

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2018, 06:47 PM

Well after a whole lot of looking & organizing. My garage still looks like crap. I did manage to find 1 of my conversion plates for the MC. I had moved onto my motor. Removed me tranny. Just had it bolted up for test fitting. Still needed to install my Flywheel, clutch & pressure plate. So installed the flywheel & torqued the bolts to 52lbs. Installed the flywheel bearing. Went to install the clutch & pressure plate but I could not find bolts. Looked at the local parts stores with no luck. Ordered some from Subaru dealership. Supposed to be here Wednesday. Going to bolt it to my engine stand. I've got a small car mount on it I am not using. The side with the dipstick tube on it I've got to pull the oil pan to remove. Not a big deal I'll try to tackle it tonight. Taking a break for some dinner. Then need to get pick up some stuff to make Mike Moorman's rotella dip for the big game tomorrow. Good to finally do something on my car. Didn't amount to a whole lot but it is progress


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Posted by: 76-914 Feb 3 2018, 07:06 PM

Way to go Jamie. It will become more organized and easier in the next few sessions. Stay after it and keep posting your results.

Posted by: bbrock Feb 4 2018, 11:02 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 3 2018, 11:17 AM)

Okay now I know why I haven't done squat since I moved. My shop space dropped 2/3rds when I moved. While I got rid of a bunch of 914 crap I had built up I didn't have space for. I still have to much crap in my space. All the parts I have for my car are buried in totes from my move. I spent 10 minutes pulling my pedal cluster. I've spent the last hour scouring through totes to find my hydraulic bracket. Of which I know I have 2. I have 2 full setups for this conversion. 1 new Wildwood MC(found), 1 new Honda MC(not found), 2 new reservoirs (found). I can't find the MC conversion bracket's. I've got about 3 more lg totes to look through. They are just buried on a shelf 9ft off the ground & weren't light when I manhandled them up there. I got parts spread all over my workable space now. So looking like today will be spent trying to get my shop area more organized so I can find what I need. Then have space to work again after. ARGH! I really hate not having a shop separate from our garage. Everyone just fills the garage with whatever the hell they don't want (yeah thats mostly my wife). I can probably spend the entire day trying to organize it & not feel much better about it when I'm done. I still have to much stuff for to little space. I will always be fighting to make space to do anything.

About the only positive this morning is I found my set of Boxster brake Calipers. Along with a pair of the adapters to make them work. Although I can't remember if the adapters are for the front or rear. I think the front. Really was a waste of my money as I already have the 944 Brembo turbo calipers up front already. I don't think these are any larger. Probably should just sell these

Posted by: JRust Feb 6 2018, 12:18 AM

Got the motor on the stand today. Flipped it over to pull the oil pan & remove the Small car motor mount. then pulled it back off the stand. Just waiting on my dang pressure plate bolts to arrive. Then I can finish the clutch & mate the transmission back up to the motor. Then onto my cradle & up in the car it goes. Really just to have it in place & test fitment everywhere. Still have a bunch to figure on the turbo, exhaust & intercooler setup. Can have a better idea of layout once I have it back in. Seriously only 30 min of screwing around with it today but just feels good to have my 914 as a focus again. I've got to get it back on the road. Was a nice day out today that would have been kick ass if I had my 914 running. I would have went for a nice afternoon shakedown run

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 6 2018, 11:53 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2018, 10:18 PM)

Posted by: Justinp71 Feb 7 2018, 12:49 AM

Jamie, question- are you still going with the stinger computer? What computer are you running now on your 2.5L that was in your car?

I'm doing a 2.5L conversion on an off-road car and looking for a cheap and easy computer solution.

Posted by: 914forme Feb 7 2018, 12:17 PM

Jamie, why not post a WTB add for the pieces you need. I love to fabricate stuff, and use my :welder:sometimes it is better to pay less and get a good start on a project.

Posted by: JRust Feb 7 2018, 06:39 PM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Feb 6 2018, 10:49 PM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 7 2018, 06:45 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Feb 7 2018, 10:17 AM)

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 8 2018, 09:58 AM

More pic's. pls.

Posted by: hockeymutt Feb 8 2018, 10:35 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2018, 10:18 PM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 10 2018, 06:26 PM

Well I had some progress today. I also had a setback.

I got my clutch all done & installed. Mated my tranny back to my motor. Installed my zero decipals cable shift setup (with looks great). Didn't hook up to my shifter yet. Installed my cradle to the motor. Then using a combo of my mid rise scissor lift & my hydraulic table. I put it up into place in my car.

Which is where my problem is. My tranny ears don't line up & mount. Both my cradle & tranny ears are from Coldwater. Well I think they are. The tranny ears I got from my friend Brent. He was using a firewall mount. Talked to Ian & he is sending me another set of tranny ears to check. Basically my drivetrain is sitting 2 1/2 to 3" closer to the firewall than it should be. MY previous cut out in my rear trunk for my clutch arm definitely doesn't match where it was with my last motor. Also my motor isn't sitting level. My transmission needs to go up or my motor need to drop some to make it level. Either way I need to figure out how I am going to move my drivetrain back. Guess LineXing my cradle wasn't such a great idea without test fitting it first


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Posted by: Chris H. Feb 10 2018, 09:36 PM

Hmmm...that's weird. Can you post some pics of where they line up (or don't line up) with the trans mounting points on the car? You sure you have the trans hangers on correctly? Should look like this:



Take a look at this thread, starting at post 266:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=78501&st=260

Has some helpful pics. Same engine, same cradle.

Posted by: JRust Feb 10 2018, 10:04 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 10 2018, 07:36 PM)

Hmmm...that's weird. Can you post some pics of where they line up (or don't line up) with the trans mounting points on the car? You sure you have the trans hangers on correctly? Should look like this:



Take a look at this thread, starting at post 266:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=78501&st=260

Has some helpful pics. Same engine, same cradle.

Posted by: Chris H. Feb 11 2018, 09:23 AM

Yes the engine sits farther forward with the cradle setup, but yours looks like it's in the right spot. The Subaru trans is longer. Once you get the right hangers you'll be good to go.

Posted by: JRust Feb 11 2018, 07:55 PM

I heard from Brent & he made those tranny hangars. Not sure where I got the idea they were from Ian. Anyway minor technicality. I'll have the right hangars by the weekend. Also ordering my shift cables to.orrow from a place in CA. They were fast last time I ordered & reasonable. I do need the clevis joint for the clutch pedal to MC. Also getting a new MC conversion plate from Ross for the Honda MC. I have a wildwood MC & conversion plate for it. Think I will throw it in the classifieds once I am done. Overall I feel a little better about my progress yesterday.

I still may need to modify my header as my turbo is right up at the firewall. Also throws off my battery mount which was on the firewall right behind the passenger seat down low. My header hit it just barely when I text for it before. Now it is a good 3" closer than my test. Am going to buy the early Miata Deca battery & hope that is small enough I can cut dowm my mount & have it fit.

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 12 2018, 10:15 AM

So whats the plan Jamie? Get everything bolted together and wired up then take it to the mechanic/tuner for exhaust and start up? Still thinking about AC?

Posted by: JRust Feb 12 2018, 11:43 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 12 2018, 08:15 AM)

So whats the plan Jamie? Get everything bolted together and wired up then take it to the mechanic/tuner for exhaust and start up? Still thinking about AC?

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 12 2018, 12:49 PM

https://www.mcmaster.com/#clevises/=1bjgud3

I'd suggest you plan on several trips if your having someone make your AC hoses. Otherwise use my crimper and make your own. All of your engine related AC equipment will go over the top the engine and down n out the right side long. Should be plenty of room for it.
I noticed they have metric clevis' now. The clevis I used was 5/16" so it required changing out the Honda MC plunger which has the metric threads. Easy to do. Just buy a long 5/16" bolt, cut to length then round and polish the end. I still have a bunch of this stuff around here somewhere. PM me and I'll see what I have for you.

Posted by: JRust Feb 12 2018, 03:35 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 12 2018, 10:49 AM)

https://www.mcmaster.com/#clevises/=1bjgud3

I'd suggest you plan on several trips if your having someone make your AC hoses. Otherwise use my crimper and make your own. All of your engine related AC equipment will go over the top the engine and down n out the right side long. Should be plenty of room for it.
I noticed they have metric clevis' now. The clevis I used was 5/16" so it required changing out the Honda MC plunger which has the metric threads. Easy to do. Just buy a long 5/16" bolt, cut to length then round and polish the end. I still have a bunch of this stuff around here somewhere. PM me and I'll see what I have for you.

Posted by: JRust Feb 16 2018, 12:40 PM

Okay parts came in this week. I got my Hydraulic conversion plate for the Honda MC from Ross. I got my new shift cables from Control Cables 5 min ago. Hoping my tranny hangar's make it from Ian today or tomorrow as well.

So this weekend I am getting my hydraulic conversion done. With the exception of my actual hydraulic line. Which my wrench will get done for me along with my A/C line I hope. My hope is to have my car buttoned up. Then off to my wrench to finish my turbo setup & Exhaust.

Also I will have my new cables for my Mr2 Shifter in place. It has a short shift on it which I'm not crazy about as it already sits pretty low. So I went on Ebay & Ordered one out of 2000+ MR2. Sits higher but I am entirely sure it will work as I want. I figure I'll have 2 to play with though. So one of them I am sure I will like.


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Posted by: 76-914 Feb 18 2018, 09:47 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 16 2018, 10:40 AM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 18 2018, 10:09 AM

Yeah I screwed my day yesterday for car work. Went up to WA & bought a 88 944 turbo that was wrecked. Front end is a little jacked up but only has 68k on the car. Still runs & I plan to rebuild it. IT did however wipe out my day. All I managed for my 914 was painting my tranny ears & my Hydraulic conversion plate. Hoping to get a little time this afternoon but the wife has my day pretty well booked up. Although she & my son have a little trip this week. So all my nights are open to work on it again


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Posted by: Amenson Feb 18 2018, 09:22 PM

Unfortunately for the plastic shifter will swap 1,3,5 and 2,4,R. The cable needs to attach above the pivot.

Does your short shifter look like the top of this picture? If so you can easily remove it from the ball and make something like the bottom to get the height you want.



I whipped that one out when setting up my lathe. I didn't add the snap ring, the set screw should be enough to hold it in place.

Posted by: Chris H. Feb 18 2018, 10:24 PM

I added a small extension to my short MR2 shifter. Stainless steel (avoid the aluminum version, they tend to break).

Looks like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-SHIFTER-KNOB-EXTENDER-EXTENSION-TOYOTA-SCION-WRX-M12X1-25-TC/302544701045?hash=item467111c675:g:~cAAAOxyTyBSVQbA&vxp=mtr

I used a stock MR2 knob which screws down onto the shifter a bit. Makes for a pretty good height.

Posted by: JRust Feb 18 2018, 10:51 PM

QUOTE(Amenson @ Feb 18 2018, 07:22 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 19 2018, 02:26 PM

Whether you need an extension depends upon where you locate your shifter and how long your arms are. Mine is within arms reach and I like the short shifts. Why have a 10-12” throw when you can have a 3-4” throw?

Posted by: JRust Feb 19 2018, 03:10 PM

I did have mine mounted a few inches off the center tunnel before. That was with a Stock MR2 shifter which did not come up to high. Worked great but I figured with the short shifter it would have it sitting to low again. I will play with it & figure it out. Hoping to spend a couple hours Tuesday night on it

Posted by: rnellums Feb 20 2018, 07:25 PM

Haha, I should have told you Jamie. The clutch plate is stainless, no painting required .

Posted by: JRust Feb 23 2018, 12:48 AM

Okay I got my hydraulic conversion plate in. Added longer bolts for the pedal cluster that attach the MC. With the adapter plate I didn't the bolt was long enough. Guess I could have gone a 1/4" shorter but at least it works fine. Although I wish I would have bolted it in place to mark the whole I need for the clutch MC. Looks like I am a little off. Although my hole is a little bigger so maybe it will work as is. I've got to press out the studs from the Honda MC. The lower one just needs a short bolt through. The upper can be a little longer but the ones it come with are just to long.

I also installed my Tranny ears. My motor is sitting where it is going to be. It is still farther forward than I would like. In retrospect I wish I would have not sold my previous cradle with my old drivetrain. Wanted to make it easier for whoever bought it. MY old cradle had the drivetrain shifted farther to the rear by a good 3-4". Which with the way I have my turbo out in front of my motor. This puts my turbo to close to the firewall. I'm going to have to modify my header to have enough space I believe. It also screws where I had my battery mounted (down low on the firewall behind the passenger seat) My header is up close there. So my old mount my header just barely caught it on install when I though the drivetrain placement was a couple inches back. I had planned to run the smaller Miata battery which would let me cut down my mount. Even with that I am not sure it will work. One thing to mess with later


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Posted by: 76-914 Feb 23 2018, 09:10 AM

Keep on keeping on, Jamie. Do something everyday to your car and it will be finished before you know it. Way to go, stay after it.

Posted by: Amenson Feb 23 2018, 10:28 AM

How about this for a shifter? Even comes with built in central e-brake!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission-Gear-Shifter-Parking-Brake-E120f0001f-Lotus-Elise-Exige-S2-R111/272475591287?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3D4aae1a6a3a5243ee9f894a049c89e47c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D222821466131%26itm%3D272475591287&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Regarding engine placement...instead of modifying the header why not move the engine. After working with the coldwater mount on Grey, I really think that the best thing to do with it is to direct bolt the engine to the cradle and use the stock location 914 isolators for the front and rear mounts. Having soft mounts for the engine to cradle but not for the trans to cradle has always bothered me a bit. It is working in the field so it is not a real failure mode, but still...

If you ditch the Subaru engine mounts and modify the cradle to direct bolt the engine a few inches back it solves a bunch of problems. Including the axle alignment and and CG if you use the opportunity to lower the engine the thickness of the suby engine mount.

Posted by: lastwolf69 Feb 23 2018, 10:40 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 23 2018, 12:48 AM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 23 2018, 11:53 AM

QUOTE(Amenson @ Feb 23 2018, 08:28 AM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 23 2018, 10:16 PM

I bought another MR2 shifter off eBay tonight. The one I got from a late model won't work as someone pointed out as it would reverse my gears. My other mr2 shifter has the short shift kit which I didn't like. I just noticed it also doesn't shift worth a crap. The shifter hits the side to side post keeping it from going into first. So I ordered one from an 86. I also received my new cables. I'm gone all next week for work. I've got a few things on tap tomorrow but it will sit for about 10 days while I am gone.

Tomorrow will be installing the Hydraulic MC. I went to HF to get a small press. Need to press out the studs in the honda MC for shorter bolts. Picked up the 6ton press which was the smallest at HF. Been wanting to have one for years. I'll make good use of it tomorrow & get it mounted on my bench. Nice as it is compact & will go on an end. I also need to get one of my brake MC lines back in as I popped one out a bit during my install of the plate. I hate those damn feed lines . We have history

Posted by: A&P Mech Feb 24 2018, 08:44 AM

Sounds like we share some of the same history. Of all the things I have done to my car the MC lines have to be the biggest pain. Good luck and may the "patience" be with you.

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 24 2018, 08:55 AM

Jamie, my shifter would bind on the side to side when the bolt head would catch. I just ground it down till it cleared.

Posted by: Amenson Feb 24 2018, 09:05 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 23 2018, 12:53 PM)

Posted by: 914forme Feb 24 2018, 08:05 PM

cradles are so overrated. Porsche never used one, engine and trans can support themselves off the mounts locations. So many ways to build these. I now prefer the front firewall and back trans hanger, think 914-6 or 914-6 conversion cars. Plenty of room then for exhaust, shift linkage, oil plumbing, or about anything else you would like to occupy that space. I'll gladly take practical and simple over cool any day. As Einstein said, "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler".

Can't wait to see this one on the road again.

Posted by: JRust Feb 24 2018, 10:24 PM

Yeah I probably should have kept my firewall mount for it. I just didn't want to screw with everything I have on my firewall. Just my fuel pump really but I didn't want to grind off my paint to weld the plates to it. Overall that would have been a lot less work. Since I have my header coming out front for my turbo in front of the motor. I didn't see any reason not to use the cradle as it would cause me no interference with my exhaust. Oh well though not the first time I have done things the harder longer way

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 25 2018, 09:35 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Feb 24 2018, 06:05 PM)

cradles are so overrated. Porsche never used one, engine and trans can support themselves off the mounts locations. So many ways to build these. I now prefer the front firewall and back trans hanger, think 914-6 or 914-6 conversion cars. Plenty of room then for exhaust, shift linkage, oil plumbing, or about anything else you would like to occupy that space. I'll gladly take practical and simple over cool any day. As Einstein said, "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler".

Can't wait to see this one on the road again.

Posted by: JRust Mar 15 2018, 09:47 PM

Got my clutch MC & brace in place finally. Heading to my wrench this saturday. Need to get the transmission in neutral. I'm missing one end on one of my cable. I ordered my cables with to much throw I think. I was going by memory & did 3" of throw. I think I actually only had 2" of throw in my cables before. On the side to side cable it will work. The forward & back it is to long. I can fabricate a new back of the MR2 base where the cable mounts. That would take care of the problem. Or I order another cable with 2" of throw.

Anyway it is headed to my wrench for the following. Going to get a new cradle fabricated moving my drivetrain back 4". Getting my Turbo installed & exhaust fabricated. Wire up my ECU & finishing touches for all my motor lines.

Posted by: hockeymutt Mar 16 2018, 07:00 AM

Quick question since I'm tossing around the idea of ditching the wrx motor in favor of the ez30. Is it worth the extra work to use the wrx motor?

Posted by: Chris H. Mar 16 2018, 07:48 AM

You can get the trans in neutral manually at the shift rod if you need to. It slides in and out of the trans (see arrows) and there are three positions it clicks in to. the middle one is neutral. You will know its neutral because you can rotate or twist the shaft by moving the linkage at the end.

Posted by: 76-914 Mar 16 2018, 08:00 AM

It looks like the trans flanges are centered with wheels. Why are you setting it back another 4", Jaime?

Posted by: JRust Mar 16 2018, 08:21 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 16 2018, 06:00 AM)

It looks like the trans flanges are centered with wheels. Why are you setting it back another 4", Jaime?

Posted by: 76-914 Mar 16 2018, 09:02 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Mar 16 2018, 07:21 AM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 16 2018, 06:00 AM)

It looks like the trans flanges are centered with wheels. Why are you setting it back another 4", Jaime?

They aren't centered. Moving it back 4" would get them centered & where they were with my previous setup. Just an oversight on my part between my old cradle & the new one. Just ordered the cold water one. Which is fine & a good cradle. It is just made with the option of using the 901 tranny or the suby. I could keep it as is but think I'd need to get new axle's. I think the extra angle will just tear them up as they are stretched a bit. Plus this made things tight for my turbo at the firewall as well. I'll see what my wrench suggests is the better way to go

Posted by: JRust Mar 17 2018, 11:56 PM

Dropped it off at the shop today. We'll see how this goes. Definitely getting a new cradle tabbed up. Hopefully the guy can get on it right away. If there is a long wait. Driving it to Route 66 may not happen. Hell I am even okay with that. I'll fly out if that is the case. It would knock off a good 35-40 hours . With my car gone it will make cleaning up my garage easier. I'll get everything organized so when it comes home it will be more spacious

Posted by: 76-914 Mar 18 2018, 07:54 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Mar 17 2018, 10:56 PM)

Dropped it off at the shop today. We'll see how this goes. Definitely getting a new cradle tabbed up. Hopefully the guy can get on it right away. If there is a long wait. Driving it to Route 66 may not happen. Hell I am even okay with that. I'll fly out if that is the case. It would knock off a good 35-40 hours . With my car gone it will make cleaning up my garage easier. I'll get everything organized so when it comes home it will be more spacious

Posted by: JRust May 28 2018, 09:18 PM

Well an update on my car though not a good one. Took it to the shop before Route 66 hoping he could finish it off in time. No luck there but didn't think WCR would be a problem. Well it would seem I screwed the pooch there as well. It's been a little out of sight out of mind. So I haven't been calling enough to keep things going. The main thing being the guy who was modifying my cradle killed me. He had my cradle over a month. Just got it back to my wrench last week & it wouldn't work. He needed to move my motor mounts back 2". Which he did but he failed to take into account the fact that cross bar was already close to my oil pan. So he moved the mounts but not the bar. Which meant it would not fit. So had to go back to get modified again. When he test fits it Wednesday the guy will come over to make new tranny hangars as well

ARGH! Okay so since he was waiting on the cradle. I did have him go through & reseal my motor, change the timing belt & water pump. As well as new Head Gaskets. Wasn't really due for it as it only has 55k on it. I didn't want anything pending there. So some good came of it I suppose. Without the cradle & the motor in place. It really kept him from doing all the work I brought it over there for. Mainly getting my turbo set & all the lines run. As well as all the intercooler stuff. What sucks is I won't have my car for WCR. Super frustrating as it should have been no problem to have it ready. I should have just bit the bullet & made a cradle myself.

One other issue is my tranny was stuck in gear. Though maybe I just bound it up somehow & he would do something simple to fix. Nah I'm going to have to pull the stack to see what the deal is. I took over my spare tranny today & got to talk things over with him. Probably be a week or 2 after WCR before it's ready. Oh well at least I will have it all dialed in for most the summer.

Posted by: 76-914 May 29 2018, 07:51 AM

It will all be worth it once finished Jamie! I feel your pain. I hate waiting. Hang in there and we'll see you at the '19 Events.

Posted by: mgp4591 May 30 2018, 03:08 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ May 29 2018, 07:51 AM)

It will all be worth it once finished Jamie! I feel your pain. I hate waiting. Hang in there and we'll see you at the '19 Events.

Posted by: 2mAn May 30 2018, 08:02 PM

damn, I wanted to come here and give you a hard time, but it looks like you are already getting it.

Keep it up! It will all be worth it when its done, this is the annoying part. Make a list and deal with them one at a time and keep the big picture in sight. Before you know it, its exhaust time followed by a burnout!

Posted by: JRust May 31 2018, 08:23 PM

Well the good news is with the test fit on my cradle the axles are lined up nicely. Moving it back 2" was just right. Only issue is the top of the tranny is hitting the bottom of the trunk. Going to need to cut out a bit for it to fit. Or drop the whole drivetrain 2 ". Which I am not going to do. So another cut in my trunk is coming. I'll get it all cleaned up & looking nice though. At this point I want to just drive my car again. I can screw around with making it all look nice later

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 1 2018, 08:25 AM

That cut out can be a blessing, too. It's very handy for servicing the slave cylinder or a bleed point as that will be the high point on one end. Does it look like she'll be on the road in the next 30-60 days?

Posted by: Mueller Jun 1 2018, 08:46 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ May 31 2018, 07:23 PM)

Posted by: JRust Jun 1 2018, 10:57 AM

QUOTE(Mueller @ Jun 1 2018, 07:46 AM)

Posted by: Mowog4 Jun 1 2018, 11:53 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 1 2018, 09:57 AM)

QUOTE(Mueller @ Jun 1 2018, 07:46 AM)

Glad to see forward progress!

Are you documenting this so others don't run into same problem is is your case unique?

I will list everything on the cradle problems I had. I may flat out just get another made with a jig that will be right for everyone. It is a little silly for multiple people to keep struggling with cradle's. The problem with the coldwater cradle is it is made to work with the 901. It will work with both but when you run a suby trans it is 2" to far forward. Give a bigger angle on the CV's. Just more likely to blow out the suby CV this way. I talked with Rich 914werks a bit about it. May just help him fab one.

Yeah my car should be on the road by the end of the month. It really isn't that far off. Just isn't going to be ready for WCR.

I am considering ditching my plan of having the turbo in front of the motor & go more with the stock subaru location. Since I need ot cut out my trunk a bit anyway. It would make it easier to put my intercooler at the top of the firewall. Without worrying about the heat from the turbo affecting it. So my current polished header may get pulled in favor of the more stock setup. Still talking it over with my wrench

Posted by: 914werke Jun 1 2018, 12:14 PM

Jamie do you need an Trunk "steel" for patching?
Im going to be doing some final cutting on a car today.


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Posted by: burton73 Jun 1 2018, 01:08 PM

Jamie,

Pictures of my V8 car for the 930 trans. I made a raised area in the trunk (for the clearance)
and then got metal from Bruce Stone so I could make the cover fit and look right. Also did a cover for access to the distributor.

My trans is also moved back a couple of inches and the drop-down bracket show.

You could do it and paint the cover later.

Best,

Bob B

Posted by: JRust Jun 2 2018, 08:08 AM

QUOTE(914werke @ Jun 1 2018, 11:14 AM)

Posted by: JRust Jun 3 2018, 01:05 PM

Yep I am changing the location of my turbo. Just going in the more stock suby spot. Ordered a new equal length header & uppipe. So I'll be cutting out a bit more between the shock towers. Didn't really want to mess with my trunk to much. With the front trunk all used up. I need all the space I can get. LOL! Oh well the other benefit is adding my ac pump wont be a problem now. There was some interference with my turbo up front.

Posted by: 914forme Jun 6 2018, 11:50 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 1 2018, 12:57 PM)

QUOTE(Mueller @ Jun 1 2018, 07:46 AM)

Glad to see forward progress!

Are you documenting this so others don't run into same problem is is your case unique?

I will list everything on the cradle problems I had. I may flat out just get another made with a jig that will be right for everyone. It is a little silly for multiple people to keep struggling with cradle's. The problem with the coldwater cradle is it is made to work with the 901. It will work with both but when you run a suby trans it is 2" to far forward. Give a bigger angle on the CV's. Just more likely to blow out the suby CV this way. I talked with Rich 914werks a bit about it. May just help him fab one.

Posted by: mepstein Jun 6 2018, 12:24 PM

Every indication is that coldwater is no longer making parts so hopefully some suby guys will take over the production of conversion parts and take it to the next level.

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 6 2018, 02:09 PM

I can think of 2 advantages to a cradle or I should say my cradle. The first you know of Stephan.
1) Safety; I can roll my engine drive train out intact. No balancing acts.
2) Engine and pan protection. If I am to "bottom out" the cradle is a barrier between the engine, oil pan and exhaust

It's a matter of personal preference. This is why Ice Cream has different flavors.

Posted by: JRust Jun 6 2018, 06:08 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jun 6 2018, 10:50 AM)

And well why not just get Rich to fab up an engine mount and a trans hanger setup for the MT5

His -6 mount is what I used as inspiration for my EG mount. It just makes a lot more sense than a cradle, maybe I am I really like to Keep It Simple because I can be Stupid.

People think the cradle is cool, I get it, but there is really no design reality that calls for the cradle. Only one I can think of is if your going to use it to make mounting points for the suspension. And at that point I would build a tube framed car, with a 914ish body hanging on it. Or do like Dane did.....

Keep going Jamie

Posted by: JRust Jul 27 2018, 09:06 PM

Well haven't seen a lot of progress though plenty has been happening. Here is a picture of my motor finally coming together. With the intake flipped the ac compressor wouldn't fit. Added some risers to the intake to make space. Upgraded my turbo & Fuel injectors. Relocated the turbo to the stock subaru location. Cut out more of my trunk for the turbo relocation. Everything has been long & drawn out. Not to mention expensive. Didn't intend to have so much work done by my wrench. Just changed so many things once I left it there. Mike does good work so in the long run it will be worth it. It will definitely end up much nicer than if I had done all the work myself.

I haven't updated this in a while & this isn't much of one.


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Posted by: 76-914 Jul 28 2018, 01:49 PM

I was just wondering how the car was coming along! Maybe I'll see it at Rt66 2019? Nice looking engine.

Posted by: 914forme Jul 29 2018, 09:48 AM

Yeh I can't say anything about car progress

As far as the cradle goes I guess for guys that can't weld or don't wish to "screw up" a car it is a good idea.

I still think it would be a lot easier to make a front bar, engine mount, and then rear trans hangers. Could always build (sell) a cradle to hold the engine and trans combo. Like Scott and I have done. Both of us have different engine setup and different requirements. If you need a skid plate make it so one can be bolted on. The VW TDI guys install Panzer plates. Thick Al plates that have saved me a few times, you can see the strikes they have taken.

I have never played around with one of the newer 4 or 6 engines in a 914. I would be in to design the mounts, build and sell the mounts. the above design also makes the mount shipping friendly. I'll start a new thread, and check with a couple of consultants on the logistics of a few key components.

Sorry for the HiJack Jamie this car is to nice not to be on the road

Posted by: JRust Jul 31 2018, 09:14 PM

I actually looked at my car today. Took a few pictures of my motor. Supposed to go back in tomorrow to get the exhaust fabbed. The AC unit is a little ugly & the alternator will fit int he middle but only with a smaller belt. Adding the risers to the intake did the trick to fit the AC unit & alternator though. The rest of the AC will be on hold though. I'll be to damn poor to do anything extra. I just want to drive it again. Took a couple pics of my cold water cradle that I had modified so my axels would line up how I want. Basically the motor mounts needed moved back 2".


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Posted by: Travis Neff Jul 31 2018, 11:10 PM

Looking good Jamie!

Posted by: mgp4591 Aug 1 2018, 03:28 AM

It's looking really good!
Is that an Unorthodox pulley in front? I've heard some good things about those but haven't made up my mind to use one yet... But that cradle is looking great as do the details on the engine!

Posted by: JRust Aug 1 2018, 01:23 PM

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Aug 1 2018, 02:28 AM)

It's looking really good!
Is that an Unorthodox pulley in front? I've heard some good things about those but haven't made up my mind to use one yet... But that cradle is looking great as do the details on the engine!

Posted by: flmont Aug 2 2018, 09:25 PM

Jamie,...whats your projected power output,.??

Posted by: JRust Aug 2 2018, 09:32 PM

QUOTE(flmont @ Aug 2 2018, 08:25 PM)

Posted by: flmont Aug 3 2018, 05:54 PM

That's Great and yes I understand all to well about the time it takes to pull things together,..starting back on mine this weekend ,.

Posted by: JRust Aug 5 2018, 05:12 PM

Motor is back in. Next up getting the exhaust built. I also need to build a cap for the hole in my trunk. Planning to tie in my rear suspension towers with a cross bar. Then having my cap possible attach to it.


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Posted by: 76-914 Aug 5 2018, 06:10 PM

Looks great Jamie. Is that trans hanger suppose to fit above or below the engine cradle? I see your axles are centered with the wheels. How did they line up before you modified the cold water cradle?

Posted by: JRust Aug 5 2018, 07:04 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 5 2018, 05:10 PM)

Looks great Jamie. Is that trans hanger suppose to fit above or below the engine cradle? I see your axles are centered with the wheels. How did they line up before you modified the cold water cradle?

Posted by: Travis Neff Aug 5 2018, 08:44 PM

Great to see this coming together Jamie!

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 5 2018, 09:28 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 5 2018, 06:04 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 5 2018, 05:10 PM)

Looks great Jamie. Is that trans hanger suppose to fit above or below the engine cradle? I see your axles are centered with the wheels. How did they line up before you modified the cold water cradle?

Before I modified it they were to far forward. One of the things I gave no thought to when it came to cradles. MY last setup they were basically in line. Knowing some of the suby guys blowing out their suby CV's. I know the extra angle was just going to make that more likely. I'm hoping with them lined up it will be okay. Surprising how much difference 2" can make with the CV angle

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 5 2018, 09:29 PM

Duplicate

Posted by: JRust Aug 5 2018, 10:03 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 5 2018, 08:28 PM)

I have no way of knowing this but I suspect that you are correct. MY 1/2 shafts are centered front/back and up/down. I've never had one pop out. I drove the crap out of it the 1st year but since I drive like an old lady. I'm happy for you and glad to see you'll be back in the saddle soon. Give me a call next year when you get around to adding the AC. Kent

Posted by: LanceW3544 Aug 6 2018, 02:02 AM

This is my dream swap. Please learn all the tricks and pass them along. I will be watching this thread for sure Good luck

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 6 2018, 07:56 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 5 2018, 09:03 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 5 2018, 08:28 PM)

I have no way of knowing this but I suspect that you are correct. MY 1/2 shafts are centered front/back and up/down. I've never had one pop out. I drove the crap out of it the 1st year but since I drive like an old lady. I'm happy for you and glad to see you'll be back in the saddle soon. Give me a call next year when you get around to adding the AC. Kent

The a/c is a bit of a head scratcher. My Stinger ECU does not have a way to run it. Another oversight on my part . At some point it means probably going back to a Stock ECU & wiring harness modified to work. Then a Cobb port. Wish I had gone that route anyway. Would have been much easier to get my tune & have multiple versions. For now I plan to enjoy it for a while before I decide to upgrade it

Posted by: JRust Aug 6 2018, 10:15 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 6 2018, 06:56 AM)

Posted by: 914forme Aug 6 2018, 10:38 AM

All you need is a way to bump the idle speed when switch is engaged.

In the old days it was done with a bit of extra air in a bypass the throttle plate.

Posted by: Coastal6 Aug 6 2018, 12:11 PM

Looks great!

Posted by: Chris914n6 Aug 6 2018, 02:57 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 6 2018, 09:15 AM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 6 2018, 06:56 AM)

If your Stinger can control your idle speed your good to go. All the factory ECU does is raise the idle speed when your running the AC!

Yeah just don't think there is a provision in there for that. I hope so but my wrench didn't think there was

Posted by: JRust Aug 13 2018, 10:03 PM

On my trunk cut out. What do you guys think about framing basically a rectangle that is boxed. So it would be a bar across the top tying the strut towers together. As well as one along the bottom but where my cut is that also connect the strut towers just lower. Then small bars on each strut tower tying both the upper & lower bars. Which leaves me with a fairly easy plate to cap it all. I think structurally this will strengthen things. As well a be nice & clean

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 13 2018, 10:34 PM

Your trunk notch plan is essentially what I was thinking. Just extending the shock tower area into the trunk giving that room to the engine bay.

I think it's a very clean idea, especially if you get fancy with some bumps like the factory. It could look completely stock.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 14 2018, 03:35 PM

McMark did one with trunk sections matched up perfectly and looked

Posted by: JRust Aug 24 2018, 06:26 PM

My trunk coming together. Will stiffen things up nicely. Plus make an easily removable plate. Wasn't expecting the fab guy to ad the rounded plates around the shock tower. Sure makes it look better


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Posted by: 914forme Aug 25 2018, 05:02 AM

Wow Jamie showing some fabrication skills, I like

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 25 2018, 08:06 AM

I like it! Not what I had in mind personally but now you got me thinking!!

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 25 2018, 08:28 AM

Getting serious, huh? Looks good.

Posted by: JRust Aug 25 2018, 09:16 AM

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 25 2018, 04:02 AM)

Wow Jamie showing some fabrication skills, I like

Posted by: mgp4591 Aug 25 2018, 01:54 PM

If you're planning on driving to RRC, I'd really like to see your work as would others I'm sure! I've got some exhaust ideas for you too...

Posted by: mepstein Aug 25 2018, 02:50 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 24 2018, 08:26 PM)

Posted by: JRust Aug 25 2018, 04:29 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 25 2018, 01:50 PM)

I’m hoping Scott Amerson can do something similar with mine. Doesn’t have to be stock but better than what the PO did.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 25 2018, 04:33 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 25 2018, 11:16 AM)

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 25 2018, 04:02 AM)

Wow Jamie showing some fabrication skills, I like

Those aren't my skills. I wish they were mine. I have not done any welding. I plan to take a night class one of these days. Just hasn't worked out yet. This year sometime I am sure I'll can get in for a class.

I'll try to get some pics of my exhaust. I think this sucker is going to be pretty loud. Just so tight a space my muffler is pretty damn short. Added a small resonator as well so hoping it isn't to obnoxious. I really wanted more the sleeper setup. I can always change it around later.

I also need to get the 3 sensors from my speed hut gauges. Another thing I sent off with my last drivetrain . I'll give Speedhut a call on Monday. My damn intercooler is the last thing. One I bought is just a touch to big. The perfect size doesn't seem to exist.

Posted by: JRust Aug 26 2018, 04:46 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 25 2018, 03:33 PM)

Yeah Speedhut should be understandable, I have some new in box if your in need and they are going to give you the long road to ship. You'll get to drive before I do. And then you can just replace the ones you need, back to me.

BTW the perfect size IC does exist it is just not in the format you are using. Air to Water solves your problem.

Posted by: JRust Aug 28 2018, 09:16 PM

I was by the shop today. Here is my Exhaust which didn't have enough room for the resonator . I don't think I will be sneaking up on anyone.

I also took one with it outside. Good to see the stance with everything in place. Well most the weight anyway. Still have the intercooler to finish


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Posted by: mgp4591 Aug 28 2018, 09:36 PM

Looking great Jamie! Only days to go, get that stuff done and tuned up!

Posted by: JRust Sep 11 2018, 09:53 PM

My exhaust ceramic coated


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Posted by: 76-914 Sep 11 2018, 10:12 PM

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 11 2018, 10:24 PM

How much was the ceramic coating? Sure looks good!

Posted by: JRust Sep 12 2018, 10:44 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 11 2018, 09:24 PM)

Posted by: effutuo101 Sep 12 2018, 11:04 PM

Looking good Jamie!

Posted by: Coastal6 Sep 15 2018, 08:45 AM

Great looking muffler Jamie.
I’m sure the neighbors will love it also

Posted by: JRust Sep 25 2018, 02:53 PM

At the shop today. Flipping fabricator does great work but went totally off the rails with my intercooler. Pulled it back from him this morning. Guy had it 2 weeks & made the mount completely wrong. Not how I wanted it done at all. He did great work for my trunk cutout. Boxing it in & getting a plate made for it. That will be getting paint this following week. Just going to have to get someone else to make a mount for my intercooler where I want it. Just under my GT lid at the top. Not where it is currently mounted


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Posted by: 914forme Sep 25 2018, 03:19 PM

All you need to do is cut a hole in the firewall, add a tube section thru the car and out the passenger side head light bucket.





I see no issue with making that work. Pictures taken from Jan-Feb 1978 Issue of VW Greats

Sorry to see the plan was not executed to the envisioned design. Might be able to salvage the mount and move it up and over as the basis for the proper location and design.

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 25 2018, 04:25 PM

Great work on the trunk!




Some people though..... Concepts just go right over their head!

Posted by: mgp4591 Sep 25 2018, 04:55 PM

It's looking great Jamie.... except for that whole airflow thing through the intercooler...

Posted by: Amenson Sep 25 2018, 05:57 PM

Not a terrible place to put a water/air intercooler.

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 25 2018, 06:01 PM

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 25 2018, 04:57 PM)

Not a terrible place to put a water/air intercooler.

Posted by: JRust Sep 25 2018, 09:30 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 25 2018, 04:01 PM)

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 25 2018, 04:57 PM)

Not a terrible place to put a water/air intercooler.

With your power level you can get away with the small one too!!!

(Not saying your not going to make a lot of power, just that you don't need a massive 700hp core...)

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 26 2018, 09:54 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 25 2018, 08:30 PM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 25 2018, 04:01 PM)

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 25 2018, 04:57 PM)

Not a terrible place to put a water/air intercooler.

With your power level you can get away with the small one too!!!

(Not saying your not going to make a lot of power, just that you don't need a massive 700hp core...)

Show me some good ones?

Posted by: Chris914n6 Sep 26 2018, 10:51 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 25 2018, 08:30 PM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 25 2018, 04:01 PM)

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 25 2018, 04:57 PM)

Not a terrible place to put a water/air intercooler.

With your power level you can get away with the small one too!!!

(Not saying your not going to make a lot of power, just that you don't need a massive 700hp core...)

Show me some good ones?

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 26 2018, 10:59 AM

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Sep 26 2018, 09:51 AM)

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 25 2018, 08:30 PM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 25 2018, 04:01 PM)

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 25 2018, 04:57 PM)

Not a terrible place to put a water/air intercooler.

With your power level you can get away with the small one too!!!

(Not saying your not going to make a lot of power, just that you don't need a massive 700hp core...)

Show me some good ones?

Notes from when I looked into this for my "upgrade".
- water pump is a Bosch heater pump from an 80s diesel Mercedes.
- Radiator from a Smart4two or motorcycle to fit inside the fender
- found a nice water temp sender/gauge for motorcycles on ebay if you're a data nerd.

Posted by: 914forme Sep 26 2018, 03:50 PM

Yes Air to water is the way to go for these, and Frozen Boost is the place to go if you don't want to mess around piecing it together.

Upgrade to the Bosch pump as the Rule should only be used in boat hulls, and bait wells

You get some silicone and tube sections. and get the car on the road, then get the stuff fabricated proper. When done with your trip. Doubt your running enough boost to make them an issue. Can always make a tube crimper, or weld a couple for beads at the end of the tubes. And use T clamps.

I used to run 45 PSI in one of my applications and it would blow hoses all the time, I went with 12 inch sections, beaded tubes, and double T-clamps. I should have just V-band all the joints I could do.

Posted by: JRust Sep 27 2018, 09:00 PM

With the air to water where are you running yours? Are you running both in the engine bay? Or running more water lines up to the front & putting it up there?

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 27 2018, 11:27 PM

My intercooler is in my engine bay, a couple extra feet more hose than necessary but it is clean in this location. And yes, my intercooler is far to big for my setup. Far to big... For perspective the inlet and outlets are 4".


and my heat exchanger is in the fender. And yes, this needs to be cleaned up

Posted by: JRust Jan 11 2019, 10:41 AM

Well not much has been done the last few months on my car. It did get back from getting the trunk cut & cap out painted. Really happy with how this turned out. Super solid yet easy to remove for extra access. I'll get more pics of it someday. These were just a few quick ones from my shop. Been kind of tucked into a corner without anything happening. MY daughter is getting married later today. So money wise I've been kind of content to just let it sit. Weddings are expensive


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Posted by: 76-914 Jan 11 2019, 10:49 AM

Looks fantastic, Jaime! Hope to see it at Rt66 or WCR.

Posted by: strawman Jan 11 2019, 11:19 AM

Wow, Jamie that looks great! It will also give you great/easy access to the drivetrain. Congrats/best wishes to your daughter, and I hope you can jump back on your project soon.

Posted by: TravisNeff Jan 11 2019, 03:38 PM

The details are looking great Jamie!

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 11 2019, 04:29 PM

That looks great!!!!

Posted by: Chris H. Jan 12 2019, 04:06 PM

Yeah that trunk access solution looks GREAT Jamie!

Posted by: JRust Jan 24 2019, 03:08 PM

Couple more pics. I will probably end up changing my intercooler. I want to see if it will cool enough with just the air. Going to run a couple small 6" fans to help pull air through it. Just need to run the line for the Clutch MC & tidy up a few things. My wrench is actually working on it again. Had a fiasco with the Fab guy we were using. Guy has cost me at least 4 months. We are done with him finally. At least he got to give me a nice big bill as a going away present . At this point I'm just glad to have my car back as the focal point. It really isn't that far off from being done. Last real obstacle is finding someone to do my dyno & tune on the Stinger ECU. My wrench hasn't found anyone willing to do it locally. Outfront has been not great in returning calls. They also have moved on from Stinger ECU's. Anyway I've got to do some calling around to the Dyno's in my area to see if there it someone who will do the tune on my Stinger ECU. The light at the end of the tunnel is at least flickering


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Posted by: Costa05 Jan 24 2019, 04:52 PM

Wow looks good. I may need to copy your solution on the access cover. Well thought out. My swap has stalled with your old settup too. Floor pan repairs, seat brackets, pedal cluster is the focus. Hoping for Rt66 in 2020.

Rich

Posted by: JRust Jan 24 2019, 06:29 PM

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Jan 24 2019, 02:52 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 25 2019, 07:10 PM

Looks great Jamie. Stay after it.

Posted by: burton73 Jan 25 2019, 07:24 PM

Jamie,

Looking super clean and nice.

Bob B

Posted by: AndySomogyi Jan 29 2019, 02:47 PM

What size tubes did you end up using for the radiator?

Posted by: JRust Jan 29 2019, 09:39 PM

QUOTE(AndySomogyi @ Jan 29 2019, 12:47 PM)

Posted by: cali914 Jan 30 2019, 09:40 AM

Very Nice

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 30 2019, 02:51 PM

Yeah, Jamie's been a little busy as of late....
[attachmentid=684019] [attachmentid=684019]


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Posted by: 76-914 Jan 30 2019, 06:46 PM

He's taking dancing lessons? Congrat's Jaime.

Posted by: JRust Jan 30 2019, 11:00 PM

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Jan 30 2019, 12:51 PM)

Yeah, Jamie's been a little busy as of late....
[attachmentid=684019] [attachmentid=684019]

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 31 2019, 01:49 AM

Sorry Jamie - I didn't think about that!

Posted by: JRust Jan 31 2019, 10:18 PM

Saw a post on FB from Andy who found this radiator. https://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-alloy-radiator-radiateur-Renault-Alpine-A310-V6-1977-1985-78-79-80-81/322938752016?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

This is super short at about 8 1/2 inches & only 28 1/2 Inches wide. Should be able to get more of the front trunk back by pushing this much closer to the front. I'll start playing with it when I get my car back in my garage. Anyway there is the link if any of you want to give it a shot as well

Posted by: flmont Jan 31 2019, 10:48 PM

Congratulations on your Daughters wedding !! that's yet another milestone LOL

Posted by: Costa05 Feb 1 2019, 11:51 AM

Thats awesome! Congrats. Hmmmm time to get back to the 914 build???

Posted by: Chris H. Feb 1 2019, 06:29 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 31 2019, 10:18 PM)

Posted by: Andyrew Feb 1 2019, 09:19 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 31 2019, 08:18 PM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 1 2019, 10:27 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 1 2019, 04:29 PM)

Posted by: Chris H. Feb 2 2019, 09:05 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 1 2019, 10:27 PM)

[
Hey Chris I don't remember that discussion. Must have missed it on your thread. I'm not going to go back to read the whole thing again though. LOL! I like the idea of trying to put this outside the trunk or maybe through the front somehow. Have a little thicker bumper to house it maybe? I don't know just one of the things I've been kicking around radiator wise. Not like I really want to screw with my setup that much when I get back. I just need to drive my damn car again. Been damn near 2 years since I last drive it

Posted by: JRust Feb 2 2019, 12:36 PM

Hey Chris I saw one suby for sale in Utah where the guy literally just had the radiator sitting in front of the bumper. Was totally fugly but worked. Got me thinking maybe a fiberglass bumper that was a little thicker. I first though of the IMSA one as well. I really don't mind it but would really like something closer to stock. Just with another 2" of depth. Just another spitballing of radiator options that will probably never happen. LOL!

I looked at your link & yep that is the exact radiator I bought. Was only $185 so even if I never do anything. I'm not out any serious money

Posted by: Chris H. Feb 2 2019, 11:13 PM

Yeah I'm with you on that idea but can't quite envision exactly how pull it off. The bumper would probably have to stick out pretty far to allow for fans and some space for air to flow. Probably have to mount the rad and then build the bumper over it.

On the Alpine rad, it just MIGHT fit between the headlight buckets. If not you could angle it for sure (either direction). Can't wait to hear if it fits...would be the perfect size if so.

Posted by: JRust Feb 4 2019, 08:46 PM

Had some good news. Have had trouble getting a hold of Outfront about my tune. In trying to find a tuner who works with the Stinger ECU. I was also having issues. Closest one I found I did not hear good things about. Tried calling Outfront again & didn't get anywhere. Finally emailed & made some progress. I just need to get them all my specs & my current tune. They are going to send me a new tune for a mere $150. My wrench is going to get all the specs & get them sent. This will be a huge help as my wrench didn't want to start my car until we were at a Dyno to get it tuned. Which as I said was a struggle to find. Anyway this was great news as we'll get an updated Tune & I should be starting my car int he next 2 weeks

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 4 2019, 09:58 PM

That's good to hear. So enough Garage time. Lets see that thing at some events. We need to swap keys one time Jamie.

Posted by: JRust Feb 5 2019, 03:23 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 4 2019, 07:58 PM)

That's good to hear. So enough Garage time. Lets see that thing at some events. We need to swap keys one time Jamie.

Posted by: 76-914 May 3 2019, 05:17 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=129 Any updates?

Posted by: JRust May 3 2019, 09:28 PM

Fortuitous bump Kent. I'll be picking it up from the shop next week. Still not running. My Stinger ECU is at Outfront getting re-tuned for all my changes. Stuff left to do

1. I'll be installing dual 6" fans on my intercooler. With it being at the top of the engine bay against the firewall. I really need to force some air through. I will probably change to an air to water intercooler later.
2. Need to finish my clutch MC install. Its in place but my hole I drilled was a bit off. Need to dremel out one side. I'll be pulling my gas tank to run lines for my reservoir. Plus need to pull my AC set in the fresh air to paint it. Mark built it for me but never painter it. So has a little surface rust on it. Plus I gave up on making AC work with my turbo setup. Another genius move on my part pulling my working heat for A/C .
3. bleed both clutch & brakes
4. Fluids all around
5. Plus in my ECU & start the phucker

Posted by: 76-914 May 4 2019, 08:14 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ May 3 2019, 08:28 PM)

Fortuitous bump Kent. I'll be picking it up from the shop next week. Still not running. My Stinger ECU is at Outfront getting re-tuned for all my changes. Stuff left to do

1. I'll be installing dual 6" fans on my intercooler. With it being at the top of the engine bay against the firewall. I really need to force some air through. I will probably change to an air to water intercooler later.
2. Need to finish my clutch MC install. Its in place but my hole I drilled was a bit off. Need to dremel out one side. I'll be pulling my gas tank to run lines for my reservoir. Plus need to pull my AC set in the fresh air to paint it. Mark built it for me but never painter it. So has a little surface rust on it. Plus I gave up on making AC work with my turbo setup. Another genius move on my part pulling my working heat for A/C .
3. bleed both clutch & brakes
4. Fluids all around
5. Plus in my ECU & start the phucker

Posted by: JRust May 4 2019, 09:26 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ May 4 2019, 07:14 AM)

Posted by: JRust May 8 2019, 11:58 AM

Not much of a report but I am going to pick up my car today . Still more to do but at least it will be back in my garage. Be a bit of a PITA to get into my garage as my driveway has a good slope to it. Have to get it lines up. Then hook my flat tow back up & go slowly up the driveway.

Posted by: JRust May 8 2019, 10:11 PM

Picked it up earlier today. Tucked back into its spot in my garage. So nice to have it back. Hope to spend a few hours on it this weekend.


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Posted by: Chris H. May 9 2019, 07:36 AM

Thats good news Jamie. At least it's home safe. So you are just waiting for the refreshed ECU?

Posted by: 76-914 May 9 2019, 09:53 AM

Posted by: Andyrew May 9 2019, 09:59 AM

Posted by: JRust May 9 2019, 10:30 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ May 9 2019, 06:36 AM)

Posted by: Chris H. May 9 2019, 01:19 PM

Yeah that's a lot of little finishing touches. Hope you have a power bleeder.

It's gonna turn out really nice. You're almost there, man !

Posted by: JRust May 18 2019, 04:14 PM

Spent some time cleaning up my garage today. Nothing like a little spring cleaning to make room to work on my car. I'll get it up jacked up soon to work on my clutch MC install. I took a couple quick pics so you can see my tiny battery. As well as my engine so you can all see my layout


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Posted by: flmont May 18 2019, 04:22 PM

Thats pretty sweet Jamie, I put my ECU behind the back pad on Pass.side,I just had to cut off a little piece of the Masonite looking backing at the very botom , It tucked in nicely,..

Posted by: JRust May 18 2019, 05:27 PM

QUOTE(flmont @ May 18 2019, 03:22 PM)

Posted by: Costa05 May 18 2019, 06:19 PM

Looks great Jamie. Glad to see you posting progress again. Engine bay looks amazing.

Posted by: 76-914 May 18 2019, 08:12 PM

Keep the hammer down and don't let up.

Posted by: dan10101 May 18 2019, 09:37 PM

Jamie, This is looking excellent!

Hope to see you at WCR

Posted by: effutuo101 May 19 2019, 02:11 PM

Looking good Jamie!
I went to the zero decibel stuff. Much tighter than before! Love it.


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Posted by: JRust May 19 2019, 04:17 PM

Okay I've got an pair of dual 8" fans to run for my intercooler. Do you guys think on top pulling air north to south? Or pulling air south to north? Or on fan on top & one on bottom doing one of each


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Posted by: JRust May 19 2019, 04:44 PM

Also I've got a newly chromed early bumpers I will be putting on. My bumpers are in great shape but this gets rid of the holes for the bumper tits. Plus these bumpers are just plain pretty.


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Posted by: JRust May 25 2019, 06:56 PM

Got the car up on jackstands to do my hydraulic clutch. I've got the bracket in place already. The hole I drilled was a bit off unfortunately from last year. I went & got some die grinder stuff. Just finished boring out the hole. Got my MC sitting there with my Hydraulic line done. Just need to bolt it in place, add fluid & bleed. Need to do my brakes as well. So glad I've got extra fuel line hose. Able to just have my gas tank sitting up top. I didn't have a ton of gas in the tank but still nice not having to drain it.

Also took off my rear trunk panel. This was done really well. I am more happy with it every time I see it.


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Posted by: JRust Jun 1 2019, 06:46 PM

Okay clutch MC is in place. You'd think I have more time on the weekend but literally had an hour today. It is bolted in place & the line finished all the way back. Just need to decide how I am mounting the reservoir. Kinda figuring just next to the brake. Just not sure how I am going to mount it there? Then on to bleeding both the Clutch & Brakes


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Posted by: Andyrew Jun 1 2019, 07:44 PM

What's the reservoir look like? I thought about next to the brake but it would take a bit of work . Probably be able to fab a bracket and bolt it to the brake mount.

Posted by: Chris914n6 Jun 1 2019, 08:55 PM

I snagged one off an early 90s Accord, 90-94?. Bolts to the brake reservoir bracket.






Yep, photographic memory

Posted by: JRust Jun 1 2019, 10:58 PM

Here is the reservoir. It will sit there just fine. Just need to make a mount. Really should be no big a deal. Just a bracket coming off the Brake reservoir mount.


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Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Jun 2 2019, 08:08 AM

I used a Wilwood remote mount on mine.

Posted by: 914forme Jun 4 2019, 05:07 AM

Tilton three chamber, no leaks, a thing of beauty. Push on or AN fittings, not sure why people use anything else, except being CSOBs.

Do it right do it once never look back.

In my case do it right, do it three times because you don't like the first result, only to end up pretty close to what you started with, minus the significant time you spent to re-invent the wheel.

Posted by: JRust Jun 4 2019, 10:33 PM

Okay Clutch MC reservoir is in place. I used a Wildwood remote one as well Bob. Just keeping it simple. It's solid & in a great spot. No clearance problems. I did add fluid to find I didn't have my line tight down below. SO it all leaked out on my floor . Kitty litter to the rescue


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Posted by: JRust Jun 6 2019, 07:29 PM

Found my line on the clutch MC wasn't tight. Think I knocked it loose trying to finagle it in with all the brake MC in place. It is super tight up there. Finally got smart & just took the brake MC lines off that were in the way. Oh so much better. Although the nut on the top of the clutch MC fell down inside my car. Somehow manage to get under the brake pedal cluster. Couldn't get it out so had to take the nuts off the brake MC. Pull that up & get the offending nut. You know what? With the plate for the Clutch MC. It is a serious Samuel L Jackson to get the pedal cluster lined up & back through the plate. Not to mention the MC all by yourself. After being ready to break shit I just dropped my tools & left the garage. I'm better off screwing around with it this weekend. Getting a buddy to come over & feed the pedal cluster bolts through while I am below.

Posted by: JRust Jul 3 2019, 09:27 AM

Finally got one of my scouts over to help me get my pedal cluster pushed back through. So both clutch & brake MC bolted in place. About lost my $hit trying to get my pedal cluster seated right & then go back under the car to get the bolts on. With the extra plate down there the bolts just didn't want to feed through without pressure on top while I put the nuts on. This weekend I will get them both bled.

Next is to put a heater core in the fresh air box I just got (Thanks Garold). Just need to figure out a good heater core that fits. Not putting my gas tank back in until I have that squared away. Was hoping to fire it up this weekend but at the rate I am going. I'll probably be screwing with that fresh air box heater core. Been so damn long not like another week is going to kill me

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 3 2019, 10:58 AM

Better some progress than no progress.

Posted by: 2mAn Jul 3 2019, 12:07 PM

so close!

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 3 2019, 03:22 PM

Putting a heater core in during the middle of summer???

Someones crazy... Get it on the road and put some test miles on it!

Posted by: JRust Jul 3 2019, 09:15 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jul 3 2019, 02:22 PM)

Posted by: theer Jul 3 2019, 10:29 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 3 2019, 11:27 AM)

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 4 2019, 08:01 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 3 2019, 08:15 PM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jul 3 2019, 02:22 PM)

Putting a heater core in during the middle of summer???

Someones crazy... Get it on the road and put some test miles on it!

I just don't want to pull my damn tank again. Otherwise I wouldn't bother with it

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 4 2019, 08:39 AM

Same process but a pair of vice grips on each end. Very quick and easy to pull. C'mon Jamie. Get that thing a rolling!

Posted by: JRust Jul 24 2019, 12:42 PM

Was out trying to bleed my clutch MC last night. Picked up one of the hand vacuum bleeders. Even had the wife out to pump the pedal some. Just didn't get much of anywhere. Pedal won't return all the way. In back watching the clutch move it doesn't move much. Figured I need to extend my MC bolt so it will engage. I had finally found a longer clevis joint. Not long enough as I need about another inch of length. Going to get a deep nut with a stud & give that a while https://www.ebay.com/itm/M5-x-M16-Hex-Stud-FullyThreaded-Stud-Connector-Coupler-Joining-EXTENSION-Rod-Bar/181629564634?hash=item2a49f736da:m:mkmonG3ATpf-GOG_7IFd0Yg

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 24 2019, 01:14 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 24 2019, 11:42 AM)

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 24 2019, 01:39 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 24 2019, 11:42 AM)

Posted by: 9144me2enjoy Jul 24 2019, 07:43 PM

Jamie its been awhile, I keep getting out of the 914 business and somehow one keeps following me back home! Your car looks beautiful, looks like you’ve came a long ways on this Suby implant, looking great! I’m still in Eugene, I suppose your still up by Corvallis off I-5. If you need some help let me know. Let’s get together sometime. Later Roy


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Posted by: JRust Jul 24 2019, 11:31 PM

Hey Roy I actually bought a place in Albany. I'm even closer to I5 now. LOL! Your 914 looks great man. We definitely need to get together.

Posted by: JRust Jul 29 2019, 10:47 PM

Here was my solution of extending my clevis joint so it was long enough. Still adjusting back & forth trying to get the right length. Gave up on it tonight. Such a tight spot to changing things. I put it on & off multiple times. It is really close but I couldn't quite get the locking pin through. Figured if I let it go tonight it will go on easier tomorrow night


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Posted by: JRust Aug 24 2019, 09:28 PM

Made quite a bit of progress today. Got my clutch bled & my brakes. Installed my new early bumpers (Thanks Oscar). Got all my fluids in & almost everything connected. I've got some adjusting to do on my shifter cables. Missing one of the cool little dbl sided female that connects 2 bolts. Not sure I'll find one locally. It's for one of shifter cables on the Zero Decibals bell crank shift linkage.

I also need to order a new throttle cable. In filling up my radiator. I found I've got a water leak somewhere at the motor. Dripping down around the water pump. Got it back down on all 4's before I noticed. Been a long day so I didn't feel like jacking it back up so I could figure out for sure where the hell the leak is. I'm sure missing my lift.

Beside the water leak I am ready to start my car for the first time in damn near 3 years. I gotta admit I could go down & try tonight. I am absolutely terrified to do it though. So I'm putting it off until tomorrow afternoon


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Posted by: Robarabian Aug 24 2019, 09:29 PM

WOW!! Great job! Looks awesome! can't wait to hear how it runs.

Posted by: JRust Aug 24 2019, 09:31 PM

Early rear bumper


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Posted by: dan10101 Aug 24 2019, 10:12 PM

C'mon Man!

You can do it!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3tlog8cbw4

Posted by: JRust Aug 24 2019, 10:35 PM

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Aug 24 2019, 09:12 PM)

C'mon Man!

You can do it!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3tlog8cbw4

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 24 2019, 11:35 PM

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 25 2019, 07:53 AM

All worth the wait. You’ll see when you drive it. It looks great Jamie. Crank that sucker up!

Btw you need to add a “t” to that 2.5 badge.

Posted by: JRust Aug 25 2019, 02:52 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 25 2019, 06:53 AM)

Posted by: 9144me2enjoy Aug 25 2019, 02:57 PM

Jaimie looks really impressive, I would have to drive yours first but I think I would trade you straight across! Smile

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 25 2019, 03:34 PM

Hey Jamie BTW did you end up using that Renault Alpine rad? If so it would be great to see some pics when you get a chance.

Posted by: JRust Aug 25 2019, 04:31 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 25 2019, 02:34 PM)

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 25 2019, 04:41 PM

That makes sense. Did you START it yet????

Posted by: Costa05 Aug 25 2019, 05:01 PM

Inspiration for all of us Jamie! Looks great. I could use your old 2.5 badge.

Posted by: JRust Aug 25 2019, 06:20 PM

Okay I went down to try & fire it up. First I turned it over a few times without my fuel pump connected to get the oil flowing a bit through the motor. Then hooked up the fuel pump to give it a try. Turned the key a few times to cycle the pump without turning it over. Then went for it & turned it over. It did not start or even cough. Just turned over. I only tried it a few times. Tonight wasn't my night to work on it. So didn't go through to check for spark or fuel. I'll get back to it another day this week. Wish the news was better but i'm glad it isn't worse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18rzfS3GU3c

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 25 2019, 09:19 PM

Well at least you tried. You'll figure it out. It's usually something simple.

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 25 2019, 09:49 PM

It does turn over well gotta consider the positives.

Fresh gas?

Posted by: JRust Aug 25 2019, 10:12 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Aug 25 2019, 08:49 PM)

It does turn over well gotta consider the positives.

Fresh gas?

Posted by: dan10101 Aug 25 2019, 11:38 PM

A couple things to check in no particular order...

See what codes the OBDII is telling you.

The Vehicle Anti Theft System may need to be bypassed or disabled.

Some cars have collision systems that disable the fuel pump.

Check for spark.

Hot wire the fuel pump (add an inline fuse so all your hard work doesn't go up in smoke).

Spray some carb cleaner in the intake. (avoid the MAF) Maybe a vacuum line on the engine side of the MAF.

That's all I got for now. Hope this doesn't send you off in the wrong direction.

Posted by: dan10101 Aug 25 2019, 11:47 PM

Sorry, I don't know your troubleshooting skills. So you're probably staying up at night diagnosing your no start.

Well, I just watched the no start video. Was that the fuel pump I heard clicking?

i think I would start with spark.

If you're getting spark, then I would look at finding a way to spray some carb cleaner in a vacuum port on the intake. If it tries to start even a bit, then look at fuel delivery.

Maybe 4 gallons isn't enough for the fuel pump to pick it up?
Internal or external pump?

Posted by: pploco Aug 26 2019, 07:55 AM

What's that clicking when you turn the key? Also, can you hear the fuel pump?

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 26 2019, 08:59 AM

Sounds like Jamie is pumping the accelerator pedal? Did you place that little metal inductor wheel back onto the flywheel before you installed the pressure plate?

Posted by: sixnotfour Aug 26 2019, 09:41 AM

Jamie , thats the calmest no start video Ive ever seen...stay calm and check on

Posted by: JRust Aug 26 2019, 01:01 PM

Missed plugging in my crank sensor & also one negative wire. Need to trace what it goes to. May be the negative wire for my fuel pump? I'll find out tonight. I did not stay up all night thinking about it. Done enough of that with my car through the years. I put it out of my mind & slept like a baby. The one that wakes up every 2 hours upset

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2019, 05:09 PM

That's most likely it. I don't think the ECU would trigger the injectors if it doesn't see a signal from the crank sensor. And if you're fuel pump isn't grounded... BTW can you HEAR the fuel pump running? Is it a Walbro or something else?

Posted by: dan10101 Aug 26 2019, 05:25 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 26 2019, 12:01 PM)

Missed plugging in my crank sensor & also one negative wire. Need to trace what it goes to. May be the negative wire for my fuel pump? I'll find out tonight. I did not stay up all night thinking about it. Done enough of that with my car through the years. I put it out of my mind & slept like a baby. The one that wakes up every 2 hours upset

Posted by: JRust Aug 26 2019, 11:57 PM

Okay went down tonight after work to give it another try. Got the crank sensor plugged in & the ground that wasn't yesterday. Turned on my phone to record & went to start it. Turned over great but still got nothing. My fuel pump no longer clicks but runs like it is supposed to . Okay I get to looking some more. Down but my fuel pump is a shut off valve I forgot about. Damned if it isn't turn off. I turn it back on & go turn my key. Pump is much louder & sounds horrible for the few seconds before it turns off. I don't start it but turn it off & cycle it again. I hear the pump being a bit loud again but I also hear some gurgles from my fuel tank. Ah okay I let it cycle a few times. It calms down & sounds normal. I of course didn't keep recording with my phone. Gave it a try again & got a burp. I cycle it again & got it to fire up. Ran it for about 45 seconds & shut it off. Figured to get it on video. Did get some smoke from the tailpipe & a bit around the motor. So go back to start it again on video & just turned over. Not sure if I flooded it or what. I left it alone & figured I'd call tonight a win. I'll try to fire it up in the morning before I leave for work & will get it on video. I can say the exhaust isn't exactly subtle

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 27 2019, 06:04 AM

Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 27 2019, 06:57 AM

Major milestone. Congratulations; it is alive.

Posted by: pploco Aug 27 2019, 07:31 AM

Nice job. Can't wait to hear that beast.

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 27 2019, 07:43 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 27 2019, 12:57 AM)

Okay went down tonight after work to give it another try. Got the crank sensor plugged in & the ground that wasn't yesterday. Turned on my phone to record & went to start it. Turned over great but still got nothing. My fuel pump no longer clicks but runs like it is supposed to . Okay I get to looking some more. Down but my fuel pump is a shut off valve I forgot about. Damned if it isn't turn off. I turn it back on & go turn my key. Pump is much louder & sounds horrible for the few seconds before it turns off. I don't start it but turn it off & cycle it again. I hear the pump being a bit loud again but I also hear some gurgles from my fuel tank. Ah okay I let it cycle a few times. It calms down & sounds normal. I of course didn't keep recording with my phone. Gave it a try again & got a burp. I cycle it again & got it to fire up. Ran it for about 45 seconds & shut it off. Figured to get it on video. Did get some smoke from the tailpipe & a bit around the motor. So go back to start it again on video & just turned over. Not sure if I flooded it or what. I left it alone & figured I'd call tonight a win. I'll try to fire it up in the morning before I leave for work & will get it on video. I can say the exhaust isn't exactly subtle

Posted by: JRust Aug 27 2019, 10:21 AM

Tried to fire it up this morning with no luck. Only had a minute but I don't think I flooded it last night. I hear my fuel pump but almost wonder if I might have screwed it up the first little bit trying to start it without any fuel coming to it. My car turning over is acting just like it did before I opened the shut off valve I missed? I'll get back to screwing with it tonight hopefully.

My wife did send me a text this morning congratulating me on getting my car started. She get's up super early for work & I didn't see her. I realized I probably woke her up when I started it last night. Quickly apologized. She replied I thought it was thunder until I heard it rev . Our room is right above the garage

Posted by: JRust Aug 28 2019, 11:13 PM

Tried to start it but no joy. I hear the fuel pump but I don't think it is actually pressurizing the system. Pull the feed line to the motor after the pump & there was no pressure in the line. Fuel would pour from it just from gravity. While it wasn't running the fact there was no pressure in the line after just trying to start it. I believe the pump is my problem. Sound right?

Posted by: dakotaewing Aug 29 2019, 06:28 AM

Did you possibly short / damage the pump on the initial start up?

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 29 2019, 07:19 AM

What pump are you using? Walbro?

Posted by: JRust Aug 29 2019, 07:51 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Aug 29 2019, 06:19 AM)

Posted by: Amenson Aug 29 2019, 08:03 AM

Pull the pump and blow it out, could just be a chunk of random debris jamming it up. Also check any pre-pump filters/screens.

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 29 2019, 08:08 AM

Definite possibility. Walbro is a pretty tough pump but you never know. You can stick the line securely into a gas can and then flip the key on. See if the pump runs and report back. BE CAREFUL man! It's early!

Posted by: Costa05 Aug 29 2019, 08:41 AM

Is it possible that the fuel pump polarity is off. Not sure if fuel pumps run in reverse when polarity is switched. Or maybe the fuel lines pressure side and return side hoses are flopped. Does not explain why it ran for a short period though.

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 29 2019, 11:19 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 28 2019, 10:13 PM)

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 29 2019, 11:43 AM

Here's what it should sound like:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjz0Wm8xK5w


(focus on the pump whine, not the e-brake warning )

Posted by: JRust Sep 5 2019, 09:27 PM

Went to harbor freight & picked up a fuel pressure gauge. Put it after the pump between the pump & the motor. I still hear it when I turn the key but I get no pressure. Ordered a new pump finally. Should have just done it a week ago

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 5 2019, 10:45 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 5 2019, 08:27 PM)

Went to harbor freight & picked up a fuel pressure gauge. Put it after the pump between the pump & the motor. I still hear it when I turn the key but I get no pressure. Ordered a new pump finally. Should have just done it a week ago

Posted by: Chris914n6 Sep 6 2019, 02:07 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 5 2019, 08:27 PM)

Went to harbor freight & picked up a fuel pressure gauge. Put it after the pump between the pump & the motor. I still hear it when I turn the key but I get no pressure. Ordered a new pump finally. Should have just done it a week ago

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 6 2019, 03:34 PM

Yeah that pump did not sound right. It's supposed to whine, not make that clicking chugging sound. Hopefully that's all it is.

I've had good luck with the Walbro so far. Never had any pressure problems, but if it's touching ANYTHING on the body directly it's loud as hell due to vibration. I put some insulation around mine and can't hear it when driving. What's the model # of the Bosch you used Chris?

Posted by: JRust Sep 8 2019, 02:48 PM

Hell yes it's alive although she is smoking quite a bit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6gv-giHMU8

Flipping hydraulic clutch cable spraying fluid everywhere. I've got no pedal I've just got to get my wife to come down & push the pedal so I can see where it is leaking from. SO I can't take it for a drive yet

Posted by: dan10101 Sep 8 2019, 03:48 PM

Yes Sir!!

Let it run a bit and see if it clears up. It usually does.
Most excellent!

Posted by: ClayPerrine Sep 9 2019, 06:06 AM

Jamie,
Congrats on the startup. It sounds good. I read your thread, and your trials and tribulations sound like mine. Trust me, when you take it for the first drive after the conversion, you will realize it has all been worth it.

Again, congrats!

Clay

Posted by: JRust Sep 9 2019, 07:13 PM

Got my clutch line fixed. Bled it but need to do it a bit more. Took it down to the gas station for some Non ethanol premium. Also have an oil leak above the header I need to find. It pops a fair amount. Next up is getting it to a DYNO for a tune. Hoping to do it this week

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 9 2019, 08:14 PM

Magic number to beat is 288whp

Posted by: Robarabian Sep 9 2019, 10:10 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 9 2019, 06:13 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 10 2019, 06:26 AM

Fucking A Tweety. You made it. I had complete confidence in you all the way, Jamie. Good on ya.

Posted by: pploco Sep 10 2019, 10:11 AM

Let me know your impressions of that Cobb 20G turbo - I've got the same one for my motor.

Definitely needs a tune. What map are you running now?

Posted by: JRust Sep 10 2019, 05:33 PM

I'm dropping it by the Dyno shop tomorrow. They are going to work it in over the next 2 days

Posted by: JRust Sep 11 2019, 03:16 PM

QUOTE(pploco @ Sep 10 2019, 09:11 AM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 4 2019, 09:52 AM

Holy cow it's still at the shop. Every time he'd go to put it on the dyno they would find another problem. Car was getting to hot. I had made the mistake earlier when they were chasing leaks. It was leaking from around the water pump. It was leaking where the thermostat goes. In pulling that they noticed no thermostat & put one in. I said that was fine without remembering the thermostat just causing problems with the long lines we have to run. Got that taken back out & it stays under 210 with no problem. Fans kick on around 195 I think. Then stays around 200. Which I am great with. So they go to put it on the dyno again yesterday & I am having a super lean fuel issue in random spots. Looks like my fuel pump wires were loose. The other possibility is the fuel pump itself might be a problem. It was a new one I bought on amazon that was fairly cheap but had the right specs. Really I just bought it to rule out my original pump had failed. Apparently the one I bought has some reviews with the same symptoms it was having going lean. I'll find out today if he get's it back on the dyno & I still have a lean issue. Seems like I am have been right on the verge of having my car back running & driving for like 2 months .

I do still need to get a new cable from the gas pedal to the throttle. I have a stock cable but it isn't long enough with my new setup. It works but isn't great. Is there a stock cable that is longer than your standard 4 cyclinder? Does the six have a longer cable?

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 4 2019, 11:42 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 4 2019, 08:52 AM)

Holy cow it's still at the shop. Every time he'd go to put it on the dyno they would find another problem. Car was getting to hot. I had made the mistake earlier when they were chasing leaks. It was leaking from around the water pump. It was leaking where the thermostat goes. In pulling that they noticed no thermostat & put one in. I said that was fine without remembering the thermostat just causing problems with the long lines we have to run. Got that taken back out & it stays under 210 with no problem. Fans kick on around 195 I think. Then stays around 200. Which I am great with. So they go to put it on the dyno again yesterday & I am having a super lean fuel issue in random spots. Looks like my fuel pump wires were loose. The other possibility is the fuel pump itself might be a problem. It was a new one I bought on amazon that was fairly cheap but had the right specs. Really I just bought it to rule out my original pump had failed. Apparently the one I bought has some reviews with the same symptoms it was having going lean. I'll find out today if he get's it back on the dyno & I still have a lean issue. Seems like I am have been right on the verge of having my car back running & driving for like 2 months .

I do still need to get a new cable from the gas pedal to the throttle. I have a stock cable but it isn't long enough with my new setup. It works but isn't great. Is there a stock cable that is longer than your standard 4 cyclinder? Does the six have a longer cable?

Posted by: mepstein Oct 4 2019, 01:02 PM

The six uses a bellcrank. Terry cable can make a custom length cable.

Posted by: Chris914n6 Oct 4 2019, 02:26 PM

IIRC 914rubber makes their own, if so they could likely build a one off to your specs, or to Suby swap specs if it's a pretty common problem.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 4 2019, 02:47 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 4 2019, 02:02 PM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 4 2019, 07:41 PM

Yeah fuel pump I bought was a piece of crap. It is cutting out just like a few of the comments on it. Which I didn't bother to read when I bought it. I really did consider it a temporary pump so no biggie. So have a Walbro coming

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 5 2019, 09:40 AM

Hang in there Jamie. At least you can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 5 2019, 02:39 PM

Yeah I'm glad that wasn't a Walbro pump because it didn't sound healthy in the startup video. Sounded way too strained. Should just have a slight whine like a toned-down or muffled 914 seat belt warning. Fingers crossed you should be all set now.

Posted by: burton73 Oct 5 2019, 04:56 PM

Jamie my brother,

Your car really looks great. Paint is excellent in the videos. I hope you get it totally worked out soon. You deserve this bad boy to run well for you.


Best, Bob B

Posted by: JRust Oct 8 2019, 09:16 PM

Okay New walbro pump installed. No more random super lean. Car is finally ready for it's Dyno tune. All strapped in place & supposed to get its tune in the morning. Just holding my breath no other problems arise. Hopefully I will be posting my Dyno numbers tomorrow

Posted by: dan10101 Oct 8 2019, 11:59 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 8 2019, 08:16 PM)

Posted by: Robarabian Oct 9 2019, 07:27 AM

Man this is an on pins and needles thread now!! I can't wait to hear the results!

Posted by: TravisNeff Oct 9 2019, 12:22 PM

Attached image(s)

Posted by: dan10101 Oct 9 2019, 12:26 PM

Dyno numbers are like crack...

Posted by: JRust Oct 9 2019, 11:06 PM

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Oct 9 2019, 11:26 AM)

Dyno numbers are like crack...

Posted by: JRust Oct 10 2019, 05:57 PM

Okay more fuel issues. I've got some kind of restriction up front. Not sure if the line is kinked from the tank to the SS fuel lines. Or I have something floating in the tank/filter. Pulling the tank in the morning to figure it out . With it being so inconsistent I am thinking it is a partial clog or something floating in the filter. So is fine for a while then cuts out as it clogs it. Then when no pressure moves off? Makes the most sense to me anyway. So still don't have my numbers

Andy (Dyno tune guy) is pretty confident I should have 330ish to the wheels. If I were to go a little crazy with e85 race gas I could hit mid 400's with a little different tune . Next up for me is finding a Limited Slip for my tranny. They recommended the OBX with updated hardware. Best bang for the buck & very solid with the updated hardware. Still hoping to get it back tomorrow with the tune done.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 10 2019, 06:12 PM

Wow that's more than 2X what you had....should be fun.

FYI Subarugears sells an LSD. $900 shipped.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 10 2019, 06:37 PM

I rebuilt my OBX with the upgrade bolts you can see what all I did in my thread. You also need to debur the casting. And is OBX still making them, I was looking to build a second trans and could not find another OBX. I went a bit and surface plated the gears also so they where all flushed out.

Honda kids just change the bolts and drop them in and let the steel machine steel.

Chris is correct SubaruGears sells one for $900, and no rebuild time.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 10 2019, 06:43 PM

BTW Jamie you have to be frustrated, but it will be a small detail. Part of the reason, I put the fuel pump in the tank with a new prefilter. You can pull the nuts lift the pump out and see in the tank with out pulling the hood.

If you have access to a Borescope I would use that to see what's going on, before I pull the tank. I hate pulling tanks. Drop the under tray look around via the service holes, and remove the gas cap, and drop the scope on in and see what your pickup looks like.

Also I would rock the E85 in a heart beat, but would prefer to run with a sensor to switch the maps, not sure if your ECU can handle the input and run multiple maps based off the sensor.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 10 2019, 07:00 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 10 2019, 04:57 PM)

Okay more fuel issues. I've got some kind of restriction up front. Not sure if the line is kinked from the tank to the SS fuel lines. Or I have something floating in the tank/filter. Pulling the tank int he morning to figure it out . With it being so inconsistent I am thinking it is a partial clog or something floating int he filter. So is fine for a while then cuts out as it clogs it. Then when no pressure moves off? Makes the most sense to me anyway. So still don't have my numbers

Andy (Dyno tune guy) is pretty confident I should have 330ish to the wheels. If I were to go a little crazy with e85 race gas I could hit mid 400's with a little different tune . Next up for me is finding a Limited Slip for my tranny. They recommended the OBX with updated hardware. Best bang for the buck & very solid with the updated hardware. Still hoping to get it back tomorrow with the tune done.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 10 2019, 07:45 PM

Kent not following your logic here?

But if your running E-85 you will need hoses that can take that stuff, I would get the proper hoses and replace them all again, if I was switching. Gates Barricade is the best stuff out there.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 10 2019, 08:30 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 10 2019, 06:45 PM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 11 2019, 03:11 PM

Guess there was some gunk built up in my main SS feed line. Little time with an air hose cleared it out. Is working well again. Holding my breath. It's back on the dyno again & he is finishing the tune. I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon. Which means I am jinxing myself & something else will go wrong

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 11 2019, 04:06 PM

We want a Video and not a 15 second one.

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 11 2019, 05:28 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 11 2019, 03:06 PM)

Posted by: 914forme Oct 11 2019, 06:53 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 10 2019, 10:30 PM)

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 10 2019, 06:45 PM)

Kent not following your logic here?

But if your running E-85 you will need hoses that can take that stuff, I would get the proper hoses and replace them all again, if I was switching. Gates Barricade is the best stuff out there.

That inner liner is very soft. When shoving that style hose over a steel line the inner liner can be "sliced" when slid on. This slice ends where the motion stopped so you created a flapper of sorts that now sits near or upon the steel line. When demand increases (flow increases ) this flapper is pulled down and restricts flow. In my case it happened immediately before the fuel pump where I shoved a piece on at an awkward angle. How you been buddy? Are we going to see you back at the conversion anytime soon? I miss that build..

Posted by: JRust Oct 11 2019, 07:51 PM

Okay here is a kinda short pull. Which ends with my tranny breaking. My luck continues
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_spm-MvG6_I

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 11 2019, 08:16 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 11 2019, 06:51 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 11 2019, 08:43 PM

The run up sounded good Jamie. Is the transmission, clutch, etc. stock?

Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 11 2019, 08:54 PM

Don’t leave us hanging. This is like an episode from Dallas.

Posted by: JRust Oct 11 2019, 09:29 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Oct 11 2019, 07:16 PM)

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 11 2019, 06:51 PM)

Okay here is a kinda short pull. Which ends with my tranny breaking. My luck continues
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_spm-MvG6_I

Looks like something else was going on before the trans locked up.... Did the motor lock up?

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 12 2019, 10:24 AM

Holy hell man...

Posted by: Robarabian Oct 12 2019, 11:24 AM

Stay positive man.. you're in it to win it!

Posted by: JRust Oct 12 2019, 11:36 AM

Looking for an 04 forester XT tranny. The 4.11 gearing will work much better for my setup. Though my freeway cruising will be. a bit high on the rpm. Still looking through tranny stuff. Also going to do the limited slip while I am doing it

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 12 2019, 09:11 PM

Saw this one in the classifieds on NASIOC. No affiliation at all so I can't vouch for it. From a 2005 Legacy GT but it's a 4:11

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2907578

There are a couple of other ones on there that don't say what year. There is an 04 XT trans ad but it sold YESTERDAY. You could also do a WTB ad...there's a separate section for it.

I keep watching your video to try and understand what happened. Does the clutch operate OK, as in does the clutch arm move at the trans when you push the clutch pedal in?

Posted by: JRust Oct 12 2019, 11:16 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Oct 12 2019, 08:11 PM)

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 13 2019, 08:26 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 13 2019, 12:16 AM)

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 13 2019, 12:48 PM

Enough with the "Cliff Hanger's" Jamie. What were the torque numbers at the time it seized?

Posted by: JRust Oct 13 2019, 01:34 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 13 2019, 11:48 AM)

Enough with the "Cliff Hanger's" Jamie. What were the torque numbers at the time it seized?

Posted by: 914forme Oct 14 2019, 01:06 PM

18 PSI you gas guys crack me up. I start to worry when my diesels crank out 45-50 psi.

Jamie, I am sorry about the car, you have not caught a break yet. Hoping for the best expecting bits and pieces of the worst.

BTW, check you CV joints they took a hammering on that sudden stop. Mass of the rollers, and the sudden lack of movement, I would expect the outer CVs to not have much left in them if they did not crack a cage.

I am a sick-o and lots of people speculate, I would love to see carnage pictures, I know it is hard to do, yet it will help us understand the forces these see, and maybe that the 2WD version we build still has issues.

Hopefully you don't find that your spool exploded or backed off the shaft with a nut jammed between a couple of gears.

Hard to say until it is opened up.

Posted by: pploco Oct 14 2019, 01:19 PM

I'm not sure what gear it was in but at about the :18 second mark you can definitely hear the trans start making funny noises.

So sorry man, that's gotta be damn frustrating. I've seen lots of transmissions on the Facebook PNW Subaru Owners group - I'll keep my eyes open.

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 14 2019, 01:44 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 14 2019, 12:06 PM)

18 PSI you gas guys crack me up. I start to worry when my diesels crank out 45-50 psi.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 14 2019, 07:54 PM

That trans wasn't kicked that hard. When the 2 wheel conversion was done was it welded or was the nut cranked down. If the latter, I wonder if that nut could have dropped and locked up that tranny?

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 14 2019, 08:24 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 14 2019, 06:54 PM)

That trans wasn't kicked that hard. When the 2 wheel conversion was done was it welded or was the nut cranked down. If the latter, I wonder if that nut could have dropped and locked up that tranny?

Posted by: JRust Oct 14 2019, 08:30 PM

The tranny I ran in my previous suby conversion was a like a 99 forester 5speed.

The tranny I had for this conversion was a 2002 WRX 5mt. It was a CL buy & I had no info on it. Seemed to go through all the gears fine. Had a bit of metal shavings on the drain plug but what used suby trans doesn't. I had another trans as well but it is locked in gear. I didn't do anything but remove the rear diff for the locking spool. I am buying a JDM transmission from a forester XT with the 4.44 gears. I'm also going to get a Limited slip put in.

I doubt the locking spool backed itself off but I suppose it's possible. I put that on myself so it should be good .

I will check the CV's out. The new tranny is coming with some as well. So I can just swap those in or get some new ones. Haven't looked into upgraded suby cv's.

I didn't get down to the shop today. I will go down tomorrow

Posted by: sixnotfour Oct 14 2019, 08:33 PM

cliff hanger...hoping for the best for you Man..its been a road well traveled..Best of Luck tomorrow...

Posted by: JRust Oct 15 2019, 04:00 PM

Change of plans. Shop has another 02 tranny. They can swap it for mine & have it back on the dyno this week. So I am buying that so I can get my car back quicker. The other tranny with a limited slip I will work on over time & swap it when I am done. Didn't want to wait another 3 weeks with shipping on the lsd & tranny.

I'll update when I have more info. Which wont be until later in the week. I should get my car back friday. Untll something else flippin breaks anyway

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 15 2019, 04:53 PM

Good plan.

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 15 2019, 10:57 PM

Posted by: Chris914n6 Oct 16 2019, 08:38 PM

post pics of the tranny carnage... inquiring minds want to know what failed

Posted by: Amenson Oct 18 2019, 10:48 AM

Keep your head up and wallet open Jamie...you are so close!

I am curious about your inclination to go to a 4.11/4.44 final drive. Porsti only had 305whp last time it was running and with the 3.9 final drive, first gear was pretty much useless for anything but creating noise in school zones. Second wasn't much better. Even with your wider tires and a bit more lag from the larger turbo, first and second will not do much for you with a 4.11/4.44. I am working on a plan to steal Stephen's 3.7 or 3.8 transmission in preparation for Porsti having higher compression forged pistons, forged rods and Flex fuel.

Posted by: JRust Oct 18 2019, 11:05 AM

QUOTE(Amenson @ Oct 18 2019, 09:48 AM)

Posted by: Amenson Oct 18 2019, 11:29 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 18 2019, 01:05 PM)

QUOTE(Amenson @ Oct 18 2019, 09:48 AM)

Keep your head up and wallet open Jamie...you are so close!

I am curious about your inclination to go to a 4.11/4.44 final drive. Porsti only had 305whp last time it was running and with the 3.9 final drive, first gear was pretty much useless for anything but creating noise in school zones. Second wasn't much better. Even with your wider tires and a bit more lag from the larger turbo, first and second will not do much for you with a 4.11/4.44. I am working on a plan to steal Stephen's 3.7 or 3.8 transmission in preparation for Porsti having higher compression forged pistons, forged rods and Flex fuel.

Shop was telling me I would stay in the power band better with the turbo. When I would go to shift I would be where the turbo is spooling. I will have some lag with the 3.90. As it is I am staying with the 3.90 for now. I will see how it feels before I end up buying another tranny. I did find a 4.11 5 speed out of an 04 RS imprezza. I am hoping to snag it but the guy hasn't gotten back to me. No big deal at this point.

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 18 2019, 12:51 PM

I have bigger turbo than you with less displacement and more lag and while I found that my shorter geared trani and shorter tires on stickies make for quicker response, but on the street it made the car feel slower due to how often I needed to shift. I didnt percieve more power to the ground as I would have expected with shorter gears, in fact it felt slower... The longer geared trani felt more like a rocket with the short lag then a LONG pull.



Just saying I am really debating putting another long geard trani or a custom box with a short 2nd gear for autox.

Compare these two videos. The first video is short box with small tires. Second gear goes to just over 60. There is a almost an unnoticeable difference in time. Power is about 260-270whp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVZpVREkpFw




Second video. Longer gearing, old tune, taller/heavier tires. Power is probably 280whp or so in second. Speed displayed is probably accurate, as it should be about 75mph at the top of 2nd. Thats 15mph difference with roughly the same time and a hair more lag.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hliU58TRbFE




If all I did was autox and hill climb then the short box for sure. But on the street, that long box makes the car feel so much bigger than it is.

Posted by: rhodyguy Oct 18 2019, 01:23 PM

109 in 17 sec not trying too hard? WOW. In town no less.

Posted by: JRust Oct 18 2019, 01:33 PM

Tranny is in & it is back on the Dyno! Heading down in a bit to get it. I'll should finally have some numbers today

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 18 2019, 04:59 PM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Oct 18 2019, 12:23 PM)

109 in 17 sec not trying too hard? WOW. In town no less.

Posted by: JRust Oct 18 2019, 09:15 PM

Okay well I did get to drive my car & brought it home. The boost controller wasn't working. They didn't have anymore in stock. So at the moment I am at just 11lbs of boost. I'll go back down next week for the new boost controller & will get my turbo cranked up then. I'll get a much better dyno sheet as well. This one hardly shows the graphs. Sorry the lines are so faint. I'm at 230 hp to the wheels at 6150 rpms & 214lbs of torque at 4750 rpms. Nowhere close to what I expected but my boost is so low.

Having said all that. It has been raining all day & I have done nothing but drive it a few miles. It pulls amazing but I really didn't go all out. To wet outside I just spin the wheels with much pedal. I also ran out of gas about 5 miles from the shop. Forgot with my fuel issues we had to drain the tank. They put in gas to run the dyno but not a lot. I did see the gauge on empty but just thought it wasn't working. LOL! So got to sit on the side of the road for a half hour while I waited for more fuel. Put in close to 5 gallons & fired right up. Drove right to the gas station where it took 12 gallons. Then hooked up to my truck & flat towed it home. MY passenger rear wheel is either bent or out of balance. I saw it on the dyno & didn't feel it so much when I drove it. My day is pretty shot tomorrow unfortunately. So I won't get to do anything with it. Hopefully Sunday afternoon I'll have a little time to play around


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: dan10101 Oct 18 2019, 11:25 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 18 2019, 08:15 PM)

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 19 2019, 12:10 AM

Awesome!!!! That looks near identical to my setup up to about 6k when I'm on ~11psi!

Seriously promising stuff there!

Next time if your there on the Dyno and the controller doesn't work just add small "t" valves to the boost line to the wastegate. They'll bump up the pressure so you can at least tune for the bigger boost.

That or a $30 bleed valve.. surprised your tuner didn't just throw one on so you wouldn't have to revisit them...


Congrats on great progress!!

Posted by: 914forme Oct 19 2019, 10:39 AM

Your getting really close Jamie - enjoy the car.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 19 2019, 11:43 AM

Congrats Jamie. It's been a long road and unfortunately, one you couldn't drive on. Your torque is the same as my 6. By the way, stay off wet roads unless you want a repeat!

Posted by: JRust Oct 19 2019, 08:13 PM

Well I took a quick 20 minute drive tonight. Heard a little clickety clack one the road. Turned around as it is a sound I am familiar with. One rear wheel was a bit loose. Torqued that wheel & check all the others. Good thing as there was at least one loose nut on each wheel. Took it back out. Pulls through all the gears great. I always get gearing back words but these seem pretty long. Other than 1st gear the rest seem fairly long before needing to shift. Also my Speedhut speedometer isn't working. It lights up but the needle isn't moving. The calibrate doesn't seem to be working. I've got to look into that some more. My shifts are really short & quick. I have to say the Zero decibals bell crank setup is smooth & precise. Really impressed with it & he is just finishing his own shifter. I can see that on my wish list

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Oct 19 2019, 08:22 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Oct 18 2019, 11:10 PM)

Posted by: Robarabian Oct 19 2019, 10:43 PM

Congratulations Jaime!! Sounds like it is finally a GO Go GO!!!!! I cant wait to see the car in person one day.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 20 2019, 08:44 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 19 2019, 09:13 PM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 20 2019, 03:32 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Oct 20 2019, 07:44 AM)

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 20 2019, 04:17 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 20 2019, 02:32 PM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 20 2019, 04:34 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Oct 20 2019, 03:17 PM)

Posted by: Amenson Oct 20 2019, 05:59 PM

I was digging through some old files looking for data and failed but I did find some ratio calculations I did when I was picking out my trans.

I ended up with a 09 WRX which has different 1st-3rd than the earler stuff.

3.9 3.166 1.882 1.296 0.972 0.738 - '08-up USDM WRX

3.9 Final drive


4.11 Final drive


This is likely what you have.

3.9 3.454 1.947 1.366 0.972 0.738 - '02-'05 USDM WRX 

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 20 2019, 09:57 PM

That 3.9 final drive doesn't look to bad.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 21 2019, 09:07 AM

If you have a GPS speedo just call Speedhut and they should fix it for you. You send it in, they fix it, send it back to you. I had to send mine back for that as well. It barely registered.

But first...make sure the antenna is plugged in and it has a very clear line of sight. If it's behind a visor or something it may not register. I moved my antenna recently for a cleaner look and had to move it back on top of the dash so it would register reliably.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 21 2019, 03:42 PM

I have ridden with Scott and 1st is useless. It did motivate the rear end to make a weird spinning tire noise I never heard in a 914 with a 4 cylinder. But then he could induce that same noise at speed, going around corners and the like.

I wholeheartedly approve BTW, I like things that can spin tires, and leave 11s all day long.

Posted by: Chris914n6 Oct 21 2019, 04:31 PM

I went with the tallest ratio I could get, not that it was really that much difference.

With my Nissan6 190hp/205tq I use 2-3 around town and H 5th is great on highway @90mph

The 3.5L 'upgrade' will be 300ish, like yours with more boost. The 914 box would work fine with the clutch I already have but I don't want breaking a trans to be always on my, mind so a 2011 WRX box swap is in the works. I'd actually bump 5th higher if it was cheaper, I've got plenty of TQ at 3k to do it.

At 1000lbs lighter I think you will be zipping thru gears more often to no real benefit vs the Subaru.

Posted by: JRust Oct 21 2019, 08:05 PM

Put on a front spoiler I picked up a while ago. Thanks Don! This thing sits pretty dang low. I scraped going out my driveway & a few other spots as well. I do like the look of it though.

For gearing I was off Andrew. So 2nd I can probably hit 70 before my rev limiter. 3rd I am pushing 100. Still a bit slow telling as my phone GPS was lagging a bit. This will just take some getting used too. I am pretty lightweight in that I have never really run my motor up this high. I always shifted earlier as my old setup power band was really on the lower end. So I am really struggling running it up over 6k. My rev limiter is set at 7. Hoping to have a few decent days without rain so I can put some more miles on it


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Posted by: Robarabian Oct 21 2019, 08:51 PM

I'm smiling for you right now. Car looks amazing. Great job!

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 21 2019, 07:05 PM)

Posted by: mepstein Oct 21 2019, 08:58 PM

Love the car. The spoiler not so much - sorry. I'm glad you are back on the road and can start enjoying the car again.

Posted by: sixnotfour Oct 21 2019, 09:21 PM

Kevin, Loves that front spoiler...half a block and he managed to to tear it of ..REDRUM, doing a U-turn.... @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=378


Attached image(s)

Posted by: JRust Oct 21 2019, 09:24 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 21 2019, 07:58 PM)

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 21 2019, 10:52 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 21 2019, 07:05 PM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 22 2019, 02:06 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Oct 21 2019, 09:52 PM)

Posted by: MichiganMat Oct 22 2019, 06:19 PM

Have you adjusted your linkage since this photo was taken?

I ask because this photo shows exactly the kind of mounting that I did with the ZeroDB linkage that was incorrect.

The little arm that mounts to the transmission output shaft should not be attached at the little hole that exists in the linkage. It needs to be mounted as close to the taper as possible, with the goal (and heres the important part) of the linkage being as squared up (i.e. 90-degree angles everywhere) as possible when the transmission is in neutral.

If the arm is mounted at the stock hole in the transmission output shaft, the angles are not 90, and the shift pattern at the shifter will feel not like an |-|-|, but much more like: |-\-/ because of the bad geometry.

On my racecar, the bad geo at the shifter resulted in 2 (!!!) mis-shifts at the track. I ultimately found the bad geometry, drilled a new hole in the output shaft, and sternly suggested to ZeroDB to send instructions with their kit.

Very best,
Mat

QUOTE(effutuo101 @ May 19 2019, 01:11 PM)

Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 22 2019, 06:44 PM

Video!

Posted by: JRust Oct 25 2019, 11:25 AM

It's sunny & I've got a run I need to make to the coast. I'll try to get some video. I was out last night & went under a bridge. Happened to be accelerating & holy shit my car is loud. I did have the top off for the first time since the new motor. I definitely did not accomplish the sleeper setup with my car

Posted by: pploco Oct 25 2019, 03:30 PM

The car looks great! I love the front spoiler.

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2019, 08:01 PM

Went back through my paperwork. Looks like my Speedometer is not a GPS unit. It was run off the VSS going by what Dean wrote. Is that on the transmission. I'm going to need to figure out how to wire that back up. I may have sent that off with my old setup. Would that just be a wire coming from the sensor to my speedometer? Is it as simple as that?

Posted by: Costa05 Oct 27 2019, 08:53 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 27 2019, 09:01 PM)

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2019, 10:02 PM

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Oct 27 2019, 07:53 PM)

Jamie your old setup has a VSS on the transmission. Rt side of transmission. black one in center of photo. Has a plug on the end of a short pigtail. Unfortunately I am planning to use mine or it would be in the mail. Using one you will need to program the speedo to correlate to the VSS revolutions it sees at the tranny. Supposed to be straightforward. I think you can auto program at speed if you have a pace car to follow. Hope this helps. Congrats by the way.

Posted by: JRust Nov 2 2019, 11:23 PM

Had a few minutes to work on the car today. Spent a few minutes cleaning up some wiring. Adjusted my shifter linkage a bit too. Still need to finish up my mount for my shifter. My temporary one sucks. Kicking around between building it from wood or metal.

Took it out for a quick drive today. It is so nice to be able to drive my car. A quick pic


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Posted by: JRust Nov 4 2019, 11:13 PM

Back at the Dyno tuesday. My boost controller is in & tomorrow we crank it up. I will have some new dyno #'s tomorrow. Been nice driving my car the last 2 weeks. Still the power hasn't been quite as good as I was expecting. That should change tomorrow. Don't get me wrong it is fast as it is. Just didn't quite get the head thrown back feel. It is nice & smooth but I can't wait to have the turbo cranked up. I am excited to see how it feels

Posted by: JRust Nov 5 2019, 02:52 PM

I am absolutely cursed. Get it on the Dyno for it's pull & it's fine for a minute. Then start making a noise. It's got a good knock now & guy says it's a bearing. . So my options are get a used JDM to replace it or upgrade. Used Jdm low mileage will run me $2500 installed. Used so no warranty. Or I can upgrade to an 2.5 IAG block with all forged stuff. This would get an 50 in torque & 10-15 hp. This would also be warrantied & I wouldn't have to wonder about it being used. Of course it's another 5k

Posted by: TargaToy Nov 5 2019, 03:23 PM

OUCH! That hurts.

Posted by: ValcoOscar Nov 5 2019, 03:27 PM

So sorry to hear the lastest.

Oh so close....

Wishing you the best Jaime.

Oscar

Posted by: Andyrew Nov 5 2019, 03:39 PM

Really?


Damn.....



Could you make use of a forged bottom end? I mean what are your limit differences?


I say go JDM.... A new motor could have it's own issues. Not to mention time.

Posted by: Robarabian Nov 5 2019, 03:44 PM

Jamie,

So sorry to hear that. I have a spare EJ 20 with 60,000 on it. Id' throw it your way for 800.00 bucks. (you can come down to cali and truck it back up).. or we could figure out how to ship it (I have no clue) but from all I can tell, it is a solid motor. Same as what is in my car. I think you are running a 2.5 but mine at 220 HP is blazing fast. Trans and all your gear should bolt right up to it.

Anyway, it is an option to save you some money. I bought it as a spare from a running car as a "just in case" or "future build" motor. It is not a JDM but is a USDM. It is a longblock but I have the intake for it.

Totally up to you.

Rob

Posted by: JRust Nov 5 2019, 05:04 PM

I appreciate it Rob but think I'll stick with the JDM. Only $1200 for it & is around 30k on the motor. I at least get a 30 day warranty with it. If it can make it through a dyno session I should be good to go.

While this does suck & i appreciate the sympathy.. I'm done feeling sorry for myself about it. I am pissed but getting to drive my car again. I'd do damn near anything to have it back driving again. So I just ordered the JDM & should have it in 2 weeks. I'm not posting about a damn dyno again until it's over though. Must be jinxing myself

Andrew yeah the forged stuff with the 2.5 would be an upgrade. They are as close to bulletproof as they get with Subaru. I could push my Redline up to 8k instead of my current 7k. Not that it matters since I am not going that route.

Posted by: thelogo Nov 5 2019, 09:25 PM

Hate to hear anyone having engine trouble
Especially a beast like this 914 is

But i recently have been made aware that
Subarus have some serious reliablity issues.
Was told that head gaskets and ring lands
Will require engine out at very least every 100k
Miles

Is this true. ?
And also that they get extremly poor gas mileage ?

And i would assume pushing the boost up
Doesn't help prolong things either

Have you look at how much a 996 engine cost$
? While your at the crossroads

Posted by: JRust Nov 5 2019, 09:51 PM

I am entirely to far down this rabbit hole to scrap it all for another conversion. They are head gasket prone sure but not that often. New gaskets will go another 100k no problem. Hell 100k on my motor would last me 10-15 years easy. I've had this car like 9 years & am pushing maybe 30k. Of course I've only driven it about half that time. This is my weekend nice weather cruiser. In Oregon that translates to about 8 months out of the year decent driving weather. If it wasn't for the long trips for the 914 events each year. I wouldn't put all that many miles with my weekend drives.

Posted by: Chris H. Nov 5 2019, 10:49 PM

QUOTE(thelogo @ Nov 5 2019, 09:25 PM)

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 6 2019, 09:03 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=129 Do NOT buy a used JDM engine, must of them are 100k miles or more. The 30-50k or "low mileage" is complete BS and just a sales pitch.

You can toss a 2.5 crank and forged pistons in your 2.0 block and have a motor that will be much happier than a 2.5. And it will save you a bunch of money.

Redline is not dependant on bottom end, you'll need quality valve train to go to 8k without possibility of damage.

There's no reliability issues with Subarus except the EJ255/EJ257 (turbo 2.5L) and the new design FA/FB motors.

The turbo 2.5's have a piston design issue (Subaru lost a class action over it) but adding forged pistons only prolongs failure as the real issue is in the bore size vs rod angles.

The head gaskets don't fail because of design.

The N/A engines leak externally due to the crap quality of most US oils. They don't have the issue in Japan or Europe where oil quality is mandatory by law.

The turbo engines only lose gaskets when pushed beyond it's mechanical abilities by wannabe tuners (ie detonation) and people who think it's a race car but don't want to build a race engine.

And don't get me started on the closed deck BS

FA/FB- well that's a story for another class action lawsuit

If you need help with your engine decision pm and I'd be happy to help

Posted by: Tbrown4x4 Nov 6 2019, 09:54 AM

Bummer Jaime. We all share your ups and downs. Keep the core engine to rebuild.
I haven't dealt with Subaru's in many years, but they were completely reliable in the 80's and 90's. All I ever seemed to do was clutches.

I think you've sacrificed enough to the automotive gods. They have to let you succeed now!

Posted by: brant Nov 6 2019, 10:05 AM

so sorry to hear this
Hang in there.
you will beat it!!!!

all the best

Posted by: burton73 Nov 6 2019, 10:58 AM

Jaime brother,

Hang in there. Its going to be a super nice 914 after you get it worked out. You are almost there.

I hope good luck comes your way from the Porsche VW gods.

Bob B

Posted by: porschetub Nov 6 2019, 03:00 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Nov 7 2019, 04:03 AM)

Posted by: thelogo Nov 6 2019, 03:41 PM

I guess their are virtually no other flat watercooled engines. Out their

So there isnt really anyway to compare reliability
Especially since jdm engines are really milage unknown
But most car engines (inline/4)will require less work and be way cheaper on maintence then subaru

Posted by: JRust Nov 6 2019, 04:30 PM

Okay you guys are freaking me out on the JDM. I'll hold off for now & do some research. Keep your info coming

Posted by: Chris914n6 Nov 6 2019, 05:59 PM

Stock parts should be pretty cheap. I'd rebuild and refresh, then you would have a practically new motor.

JDMs are definitely closer to 100k than 30k or even the 60k they used to advertise.
I bought a JDM Nissan motor once, turbo didn't spin and the intake was full of a white sandy powder. Sent it back.

Posted by: pploco Nov 7 2019, 08:21 AM

I've had a few JDM motors over the years. One went straight in and was absolutely flogged for 50K miles without any issue. Another got a new water pump, oil pump, and timing belt - that one has about 40K miles and is still going strong. Another, I pulled the heads to take a peak - it definitely had more than the 35K miles on the paperwork, but it was less than 500 bucks to rebuild with NOS parts from NASIOC.

Given the luck you've had, I'd probably rebuild or get new shortblock. A bad bearing doesn't mean the motor is junk. You can get through a rebuild with OEM parts for about the same cost or less than a "slightly used" JDM motor. Lots of options.

Heck - tear it down, get it honed, get the parts, and bring it to Boise. I'd help you rebuild it.

Posted by: jpnovak Nov 7 2019, 07:53 PM

That sucks. No doubt.

I had 2X JDM motors in my conversion. The first spun 4 bearings in the bottom end. teardown showed a dented oil pan from shipping that closed up the oil pickup tube gap as well as a slight crack in the oil pickup tube (very common problem).

The second engine was modified with the Outfront Motorsports oil pickup and I made sure to straighten and reinforce the bottom of the oil pan. Ran great. No issues with 22psi boost on twin turbos.

If you go the used engine route check the oil pan. Makes sure it was not damaged (even slightly) when bouncing on a pallet during shipping. Happens a lot.

Posted by: JRust Dec 11 2019, 11:55 PM

After licking my wounds for a while. I have decided to go the JDM route. MY shop will check it out good & warranty it for 90 days. So I feel okay about it. This will be my cheapest route to get my car back on the road again. So not much of an update I suppose. Just called the shop to order the motor. Should take a week to get it.Then another few days to swap it

Posted by: 76-914 Dec 12 2019, 08:55 AM

Way to go Jamie. Get back on that damn Horse. Did they give you an estimated time of completion? Keep that old engine, place it on a stand then tear it down when you have the time. It will be worth your time to know your engine. Your own personal Cheerleader, Kent.

Posted by: MichiganMat Dec 12 2019, 11:06 AM

I am on my 2nd JDM EJ motor.

I got a few good track days out of the first, then spun the bearings. I rebuilt it, and then got less than 1 full day out of it and spun the bearings again. When I opened it I found scored pistons and cylinders, as well as another spun bearing. The tell-tale sign for the bearing failure for me was a change in exhaust note and a slightly noticeable reduction in power. The next time I hear the exhaust note change (it becomes more boomy, bass filled, and louder) I'll trust my instincts and shut the car off.

Additionally, my data logs from the day do not show starvation of any kind, but rather a progressive lab-by-lab lowering of the oil pressures.

The new motor going into the car now is also a used one, but I've added a new larger oil pump (11mm vs 10mm) and I'll be using a large external oil cooler. I've also got an oil block-off plate between the pan and the block to prevent g-force related starvation. Its unclear to me why the first two motors did not last, as they were bone stock, not hyped or with crazy tunings. All I can guess is that hot thin oil and a too-small (or badly functioning) pump was the cause.

In my humble, most google-educated, opinion, I suggest you look into all causes and conditions surrounding the oil delivery to your new motor. A slightly larger pump and proper cooling may just save you from another expense.

Posted by: Andyrew Dec 12 2019, 10:13 PM

Solid choice. It’ll get you back on the road the fastest as well. Keep the other motor and start collecting parts for it bit by bit.

Posted by: JRust Dec 12 2019, 10:44 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Dec 12 2019, 08:13 PM)

Posted by: sixnotfour Dec 17 2019, 06:46 AM

Jamie remember when you lusted after the suby914.. Orig. Builder getting an award RRC2012
2012, obviously you had a desire...drive on...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=193828


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Posted by: Tdskip Dec 17 2019, 08:04 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Dec 12 2019, 12:55 AM)

Posted by: 914forme Dec 17 2019, 09:31 PM

with the Cayman, just such a nice car to drive, standard, S, spent some seat time in a GT4, love all of them. In reality it is about as close as you will get to a Subized 914.

I still think about buying one about once a week.

Posted by: flmont Dec 18 2019, 10:56 AM

I bought a 02' Boxster in march with 80 K on it with a bunch of maintenance already done on it,Its just the base 2.7 but it is a solid driving car,.Truly enjoy it,...But still cant weight to get my 3.3 914 on the road,..I just love that classic 914 look .!!

Posted by: JRust Jan 20 2020, 01:55 PM

I am changing my mind again. I am going to build a brand new motor. Getting a IMG 2.5 short block with forged parts. Getting hybrid pistons to use my current 2.0 heads. Stage 2 cams. That alone is 5k but I will have a rock solid brand new motor. Going to look for a stock wiring harness & go with a stock suby ECU. So I will be done with my stinger ECU. So much easier to get a tune done with the stock ECU plus have all the stock sensors. I am already into my setup a shit ton anyway. All in this will cost me about 8k. Which sucks but this motor will be a huge upgrade & will have a warranty. In the end I will be back to having a really reliable setup I can take anywhere. It will just have a bunch more power. I will still run it in the 300-350hp range. With e85 I can push over 500hp with no problem. Just not going that crazy.

I just kept going through the used JDM or even a used US suby motor. I still have the worry of a bearing issue. Which all higher mileage motors will have. I might be fine for a few years. It might do the same damn thing in a month. I'd rather invest long term & get it done right.

The other option is scrap all this shit & go with the ez30 instead. I could do it for alot less money. Problem is I have spent so much going the turbo route & have a ton of parts worth money. Sure I could sell some of it. I also got a taste of the turbo & damn I want to feel that in full effect.

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 20 2020, 02:31 PM

well even withe subi engine , It just keeps playing out that you can not Turbo a 914
Sounds like a real strong package.warranted...
and yes I have 2 broke 6cyl's

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 20 2020, 02:38 PM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jan 20 2020, 12:31 PM)

well even withe subi engine , It just keeps playing out that you can not Turbo a 914

Posted by: thelogo Jan 20 2020, 02:50 PM

Using subaru engines is a compromise i think
Durability wise ....

And adding boost isnt gonna help

Is there a reason you dont use a inline\4 cyclinder turbo engine.

As they make power way more reliably and cheeper

Posted by: JRust Jan 20 2020, 04:24 PM

QUOTE(thelogo @ Jan 20 2020, 12:50 PM)

Using subaru engines is a compromise i think
Durability wise ....

And adding boost isnt gonna help

Is there a reason you dont use a inline\4 cyclinder turbo engine.

As they make power way more reliably and cheeper

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 20 2020, 06:32 PM

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Posted by: Chris H. Jan 20 2020, 07:46 PM

Good plan Jamie. A new or rebuilt-to-new-spec engine will be reliable for a LONG time and you can feel confident driving it anywhere you want. I hear once you experience boost in a 914 you can't go back!

BTW here is a Subaru engine build channel on YouTube. German guys building high performance Subaru engines in a spotless shop. Very talented group. Check it out:

https://www.youtube.com/user/bollunjanumberone/videos

Posted by: 914forme Jan 20 2020, 07:56 PM

I see Cobb in your future, might as well put in the flex fuel sensor. A little corn fuel makes your day so munch more fun. Also means you can put that OBX diff to good use.

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 21 2020, 04:43 PM

Horse Power is addicting. Glad to hear you're back in the saddle, Jamie. Get'er running.

Posted by: Amenson Jan 21 2020, 08:01 PM

New is good for piece of mind. I was planning to just upgrade the rods pistons but once I got into my engine a crack in cylinder and "while I am at it" ended up in this!



Everything in the picture is new...except the crank bolt. I was just using the old one for assembly. I looked into IAG short blocks but they didn't offer a higher compression piston option and the lower stages used standard size pistons and no other machining, just new case halves. I need to update my build thread with the specs but it should be solid for something over 600 crank hp and I am into it for ~$3k including a complete gasket kit and upgraded springs and Ti retainers, because...8k rpm.

Granted I don't have a warranty and spent 100 hours researching, measuring, and assembling plus I will be a nervous wreck until it is broken in holding all the boosts but I saved a few grand and learned a bunch in the process.

Check with the short block supplier which oil pump to run and consider a cast impeller water pump. Not sure how you are going to source an engine harness/ecu but consider getting a throttle by wire unit and definitely confirm COBB Accessport availability.

Check my thread for ECU position and harness routing. There were only a few wires I had to lengthen to get it there. PM once you get into it and have detailed questions.

Cheers,
Scott

Posted by: JRust Jan 22 2020, 12:48 AM

Looks great Scott. Well done building it. Yeah IAG short block is what I am getting. Only real question is using my 2.0 heads & getting a 2.0 dish in my pistons. Making it a bit of a hybrid. I would do new cams & springs. Just not sure how much performance I would give up over the 2.5 heads. It would run another 800 bucks to do 2.5 heads. Wish I knew all this stuff better.

Posted by: dan10101 Jan 22 2020, 02:08 AM

I'm glad you're doing a 2.0

Here's a Mighty Car Mods video on Sub 2.0 short block.

Start at 2:00 and at least thru 8:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge_S3Rm1vQ0

Posted by: Amenson Jan 22 2020, 08:44 AM

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Jan 22 2020, 03:08 AM)

Posted by: JRust Feb 11 2020, 01:27 PM

I keep changing. Found a JDM motor a guy wrecked his car. Got to hear it run so going to take the plunge & throw it in. Hopefully I can enjoy it for a while before I need to build a new motor

Posted by: rhodyguy Feb 11 2020, 03:01 PM

With the full on rebuild what do you do about heads?

Posted by: JRust Feb 12 2020, 11:22 AM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Feb 11 2020, 01:01 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 13 2020, 11:00 AM

Good move. Anything is better than nothing. Get her moving!

Posted by: Andyrew Feb 13 2020, 11:12 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 11 2020, 11:27 AM)

Posted by: JRust Apr 29 2020, 09:08 PM

Okay haven't made any progress. Between buying a used JDM motor which turned out to be crap. Then different builds my shop suggested. Lack of money to really build a nice solid motor. I have been kinda stuck without anything to really get excited about. I've had a run of bad luck with my conversion to say the least. I always keep my eye's out for a deal. I came across a wrecked 2002 wrx. Nothing to special at first glance. Emailed the guy & made a trip up to see him. Turns out the motor has 25k on a full rebuild with a lot of goodies. No oil leaks & runs great. Dyno's at 308hp at 17lbs or boost. I've got a larger turbo but think I am going to run it basically as is. With it dialed in the way it is. I am going to just keep all my newer high priced stuff from my spun bearing motor. Hold onto it for changes down the line. Taking it to my shop tomorrow & will get a more informed opinion. Keep your fingers crossed everyone. I may just get to drive my car again soon


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Posted by: Andyrew Apr 30 2020, 12:42 AM

Nice!!!! 308 whp at awd is like 330whp

Thats pushing some steam! They must be running an aggressive timing table. Keep a steady eye on your fuel!

Your making the right steps in the right direction!!

Posted by: JRust May 23 2020, 10:21 PM

Well I picked my car up today from the shop. New used motor is in. The 2002 wrecked wrx I bought for the motor. 25k on the rebuild which I felt good about as I got to hear it run. Didn't see any oil leaks but of course on pulling it found 3 different ones. Ended up having the motor resealed. Setup isn't perfect & I definitely have some more work ahead. My Stinger ECU is a bit limited. Sending off my wiring harness to get cut down for standalone. Then I'll swap my intake & use a stock ECU. This will make getting tunes much easier. Also capable of more HP. That is down the road. I plan to just drive it for a while as is & enjoy summer. The second is my intercooler setup just isn't great. My intake temps are limiting me as well. So will be looking to follow Andrew's advice on going air to water intercooler.

Only other issue is I think the Dyno guy tuned my car with my ebrake partially engaged. My passenger rear caliper decided to start leaking profusely after the session. Pretty sure he cooked the seals as they are PMB built & really don't have all that many miles on them. Oh well pulled the caliper off my other 73 resto. I'll put it on tomorrow afternoon & bleed the brakes. Then I can actually go drive my car & see how I like it.

The dyno tune only puts me at 250hp now. Due to the intercooler & ecu restrictions. I won't get it much better until I have changed them. Still quite the bump from my previous 158 with my NA setup. Excited to drive it & really feel the turbo. I sure hope all this has been worth it

Posted by: 76-914 May 23 2020, 11:51 PM

Damn right. Go Jamie, go. I can’t tell you how excited I am for you. It always seemed to me that life was giving you a bit of a runaround when it came to bumping up your HP. But you never backed down and were always ready for the next problem whatever it might be. Go Jamie, go.

Posted by: Amenson May 25 2020, 11:41 AM

Way to stick with it. What about the Stinger is limiting performance?

Posted by: JRust May 30 2020, 07:11 PM

Okay this has been a long time coming. Replaced my leaky rear caliper with a newly rebuilt one from PMB. Still need to bleed the brakes a bit more but was good enough to test it a bit. It is raining hard today so m test drive was a tame one. Kept blowing a fuse to my wipers & defrost doesn't do much without a little heat. So had to keep wiping the window with a rag. Went into town to fill it up with gas. MY gauge isn't working to well & showed empty. Took 12 gallons so glad i went to fill it up. On the way back home jumped onto the freeway real quick. Went from 30 to 80 in holy shit fashion . Then had to back off for traffic. Then got off & went back home. Would love to drive it more but not doing it in the rain. I will say I was very happy with how it felt. That turbo pull is something that just puts a big ass smile on your face.

Next up figure out why I am blowing a fuse. Run a wire to my speed sensor on the tranny to my Speedometer so I can tell how fast I am going. Build a new center console & install my new Factory 5 shifter. Replacing my MR2 shifter. Then drive it the rest of the summer

Posted by: JRust May 30 2020, 07:17 PM

duplicate

Posted by: dan10101 May 30 2020, 07:52 PM

Driving it! That's a good thing!

Sounds like a fun day!

We actually we had our first autocross event of the year today. But it ended up with me driving home at 11am in a thunderstorm wiping off the inside of the windshield as well.

Tomorrow summer is here!

Posted by: Andyrew May 31 2020, 07:10 AM

Awesome!!! Glad to see you get that car out and about!!! 250 is a nice number for these cars with a turbo. Good amount of turbo feel and certainly very quick!

Posted by: Tdskip May 31 2020, 07:26 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=129 - what was wrong with the JDM engine? Can I ask where you sourced it?

Posted by: Chris H. May 31 2020, 08:15 AM

That's great news Jamie. Good for you for hanging in there. I agree, 250 hp is plenty (at least for now). Wait til you can really lean into it on a dry day. Enjoy it!

Posted by: JRust Jun 3 2020, 09:50 PM

Took my car out for it's longest drive yet. Got a good 2 hours of seat time. Although none on nice twisty roads. So I'd say more boring driving but that would be a lie. Man this thing is a blast to drive. Stopped by the shop to get my dyno printout. Andy was to busy & said he'd email it to me later. He did say I was wrong when I told you it was 250hp on the tune. It was actually 270 . I forgave him

Missing the connection for my variable speed sensor on my tranny. So ordered one from the dealership today. Won't get here until Monday. Luckily my phone GPS tells me how fast I am going. Also really need to build my new center console & install my zero decibals shifter. My current MR2 one works but was a temporary setup that moves forward & back. Doesn't make for great shifting. Just leaves me wondering if it went in gear or not. Will be much more solid when I get my new setup in. My gas guage is also reading like crap. Already down to a 1/4 tank it says & there is no way I went through 8+ gallons of gas today. Although without my speedo hooked up I have no idea how many miles I drove today. So makes the gas gauge worrisome as I am guesstimating how full it really is


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Posted by: Chris H. Jun 4 2020, 08:55 AM

Looking great there Jamie! 270 HP at the wheels is plenty to get the adrenaline going.

Yeah if there's one thing I'm still not quite comfortable with myself it's the Speedhut fuel gauge. It just doesn't seem quite right. When I put a gallon or two in it it shows 1/4 tank. Maybe we both need to re-calibrate the empty/full.

Can't wait to see the new shifter setup. Sounds like an improvement over the MR2.

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 4 2020, 09:31 AM

See you at Red Rocks 2020 then?

Posted by: cary Jun 4 2020, 09:38 AM

The Stars have Aligned ...............

Posted by: JRust Jun 4 2020, 09:49 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 4 2020, 08:31 AM)

See you at Red Rocks 2020 then?

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jun 4 2020, 10:23 AM

OOOPs

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jun 4 2020, 10:24 AM

@JRust- Your car looks great.

Posted by: JRust Jun 4 2020, 11:27 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4lrOrbeHPQ
Okay here is a quick video of me getting on the freeway. Need to get my new shifter setup in. To much flex in my temporary mount with my MR2 shifter. Much more noticeable when I'm shifting quicker. Anyway nothing to impressive. I did hit 109 before letting off. Still plenty of top end left there

Posted by: dan10101 Jun 4 2020, 11:31 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 4 2020, 10:27 PM)

Posted by: mgp4591 Jun 5 2020, 04:20 AM

I love the modest little hiccup from the BOV between shifts....doesn't sound as furious as your acceleration really is! SHE'S FAST!!!

Posted by: tygaboy Jun 5 2020, 07:11 AM

Wow. Let me overstate the obvious:
Jamie, your car looks GREAT!
Looks to have performance to match... You gotta be one happy guy!
Congrats!

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 5 2020, 08:10 AM

Awesome!!!! Another big congrats!

It moves out quick!!! I believe that 270 number!!

Posted by: sb914 Jun 5 2020, 08:26 AM

Looks and sounds fantastic. I remember rick and mark banging out your fender in the parking lot at wcr 2015 .

Posted by: Costa05 Jun 5 2020, 08:37 AM

Great news Jamie. Congrats to ya. Definitely fast. Im researching new axles for mine so getting closer to a finish. Maybe see you at Route 66 event next year.

Rich

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 5 2020, 08:44 AM

Nice sound Jaime. Fast too!

Posted by: Costa05 Jun 5 2020, 08:59 AM

Using a sheet metal brake and a welder this could be an option for a console. Fitted to your old setup.

Posted by: Larmo63 Jun 5 2020, 09:07 AM

Looks awesome Jamie!!

270 HP must scratch an itch........

Posted by: JRust Jun 5 2020, 09:26 AM

QUOTE(Costa05 @ Jun 5 2020, 07:59 AM)

Using a sheet metal brake and a welder this could be an option for a console. Fitted to your old setup.

Posted by: ValcoOscar Jun 5 2020, 12:08 PM

Excellent perseverance Jaime...looks great!!!

You get FIVE Oscar's today!!!!



Oscar

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 5 2020, 12:10 PM

QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ Jun 5 2020, 11:08 AM)

Excellent perseverance Jaime...looks great!!!

You get FIVE Oscar's today!!!!



Oscar

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 5 2020, 12:23 PM

That is good looking work. I plan to bring it a bit higher & have it higher in front than back. Plan to build the front this weekend. My ECU is sitting basically dead center between the seats at the firewall. So I am going to give it 2 separate sections. They will connect but I won't need to remove both depending on what I am working on. I'll post some more pics this weekend.
[/quote]


Sounds familiar!


Look forward to seeing your solution!!

Posted by: JRust Jun 5 2020, 05:13 PM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jun 5 2020, 11:23 AM)

Sounds familiar!

Look forward to seeing your solution!!

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 5 2020, 06:32 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 5 2020, 04:13 PM)

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jun 5 2020, 11:23 AM)

Sounds familiar!

Look forward to seeing your solution!!

Yeah Andrew I don't think I will have it quite as high as yours. I think my current the bottom of the shifter is at about 4" off the center tunnel. I'm thinking 7-8" with a drop of 1" to the back. I'll play with the feel of it & may drop 2" in back if it doesn't feel bad.

Posted by: JRust Jun 6 2020, 02:55 PM

Couple pics with my new Zero Decibals shifter. Good news is even though the console I built is a temporary one. I don't have the movement I had with my previous mount that made my shifts a bit sloppier. I am loving the feel of this Zero Decibals shifter coupled with his Bell crank setup in back. My shifts are precise & the throw is short.

This console is 14" long, 5 7/8" wide 7" tall in front sloping down to 6" in back. I am going to build a new one. The new one will be 8" tall in front with 6" in back. So a bit more rake to it. At least theat is the shelf the shifter will mount too. The outside will be 2" taller. It will also have some storage below from the front. More space below in the middle of the shift cables (in the space just back of the shifter with a big gap in the aluminum). Just for misc change or whatever. There will be an addition 10" section behind this. Which the cables will be going through as well but will still give me room for wahtever. Leaves about 6" of space between the firewall & the console. This is where my ECU will be staying. With the stock 914 arm rest sitting on top. Will tie things together nicely.


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Posted by: 76-914 Jun 6 2020, 04:39 PM

That looks great Jamie. Curious as to what caused the MR2 shifter to move to and fro when you shifted?

Posted by: Costa05 Jun 6 2020, 05:32 PM

Well planned. I just put put your shifter upgrade on my to do list someday.

Posted by: JRust Jun 6 2020, 06:47 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 6 2020, 03:39 PM)

That looks great Jamie. Curious as to what caused the MR2 shifter to move to and fro when you shifted?

Posted by: JRust Sep 18 2021, 06:24 PM

Well it's been 2 years with no updates. That is 2 years of having my car driving. Though I didn't put more than a couple thousand miles on it. Only driving in nice weather & on weekends. I did flat tow out for Route 66 last weekend. I had some heat issues on one day. Car hit 230 degrees & popped one of the rubber nipple caps. Was shooting out antifreeze all over my car. Really was quite the mess. Once it cooled off I added some water & we got back on the road. Ended up getting hot again. Just up at altitude & the longer pulls going up long grades. Pretty sure I had some air in the system. I just stopped there & got a ride back to the hotel & my truck. Flat towed it back to hotel. Good news is no blown headgasket or anything. Just got hot & took the weakest spot out. Which for me was a less than a 1$ rubber cap. So more an annoyance than a real problem.

Flat towed home & took it to my shop who did my tune. Had them change my oil & flush my system. Their vacuum bleeder get's the air out good. They also verified no issues from it getting hot. While I have it there. I got my stock subaru wiring harness from the 2002 WRX my motor came from. I had sent it to Jeff Robenolt @ autoadventures to cut down the harness. He does fantastic work & is very reasonable. So I am having them put in the new harness & stock subaru ECU. Then I will get it back on the dyno for a real tune. The old Stinger ECU is very limited & was hard to find any tuners who would work with it. With the stock Subaru ECU my tune can get more aggressive & I can download a tune damn near anywhere with CObb access port. Hoping to hear back Tuesday it's all in.

After that next on my list is going to an air to water intercooler. After watching Andrew's youtube video on Budget outlaws. My straight air to air I know sucks. Really was just a temporarily setup to see how it would do. It limited my tune as intake temps were getting up there. I meant to replace it sooner but just kinda left it alone. Working now on getting all the parts together for my budget intercooler setup. I'm going to use Andrews idea of a motorcycle radiator for the heat exchanger. I know his fits up in the his flared wheel well. Not sure where I am going to place mine yet. I may keep it up where my current intercooler is just under the gt engine lid. I'll update with some pictures when I get it back from the shop.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 18 2021, 06:31 PM

Jeff did my SVX harness a couple years ago. Great guy to work with.

Posted by: strawman Sep 19 2021, 10:41 PM

Hi Jamie, I am glad to hear that your overheating problem didn't do any damage. I am a strong proponent of vacuum coolant system fills -- best $130 I ever spent. My air-to-water system works great, and I've never had a problem with it. My build blog shows the FrozenBoost unit I'm using, along with a Bosch heater booster pump (from a BMW E34 5-series -- under $10 at Pick-n-Pull!) and a transmission cooler heat exchanger from a Ford Crown Vic. I hammer my car hard, and my intake temps never get 20 degrees higher than ambient temperature according to my COBB AccessPort data logging sessions. I hope that you can join at WCR next month!
Geoff

Posted by: mgp4591 Sep 19 2021, 11:29 PM

Really glad to hear your car is still in good shape...it had me worried when it blew after me driving it! The vacuum fill is absolutely the way to go with a system like yours. I hope you can make it to WCR after it all get straightened out - you know how much fun these roads are gonna be!

Posted by: JRust Sep 22 2021, 03:19 PM

New harness installed & basic tune done. Goes on the Dyno for the real tune this afternoon. Wish I had my air to water intercooler setup done already. I'll have to get it back down later to tweak the tune at that point. Would have been nice to have it all done. As it is I have a hefty bill waiting for me on pickup. With my old stinger setup I was at 270hp to the wheels. I should be north of 300 now but am still limited by my intake temps with my current intercooler. Anyway I hope to have some new Dyno numbers today but may be tomorrow. Also keep your fingers crossed. I have had some bad days on the dyno with my previous motor. So I get damn nervous with it going back on

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 23 2021, 08:18 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 22 2021, 02:19 PM)

Posted by: JRust Sep 23 2021, 09:33 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 23 2021, 07:18 AM)

Can't wait to see those numbers. More importantly, I can't wait to see those temp gauge numbers after you install the air to water intercooler.