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Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 26 2017, 10:10 PM

I've got one fuel line to install (carbs) and the engine is out. I had no luck getting the new line in further than 8 -12"

I can't imagine doing this with the engine in without bending the f*ck out of the new line....

Posted by: r_towle Feb 26 2017, 10:16 PM

Take off the access plate between the seats, mirror and flashlight....

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 26 2017, 10:18 PM

I have it off, it just seems to stop.

I really got frustrated and gave up. It seems impossible.

Posted by: napasteve Feb 26 2017, 11:05 PM

Best done with a helper. We did 2 lines with the engine in place in 15 minutes. One person below to fed the lines, one above to guide the lines down the tunnel.

Posted by: Keith914 Feb 26 2017, 11:17 PM

Keep them running through next to the passenger side of the tunnel.

Posted by: ejm Feb 26 2017, 11:18 PM

The lines are pre-bent...remove the RR wheel if you have to... rotate and work past the obstructions... it's easy... really

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 26 2017, 11:36 PM

Do I pull the front rubber grommet out at the tank end and reinstall it?

Posted by: aggiezig Feb 27 2017, 12:06 AM

Lawrence - I haven't done the job before but would imagine that plug must come out / be re-installed. I can't see pushing the lines through blindly with it still there.

Posted by: porschetub Feb 27 2017, 12:42 AM

That's why I used the correct fuel grade plastic line and ferrules from a late VW Golf,I did however use steel brake line pipe at the front around the tank into the tunnel real easy to get through the bulkhead rubber grommet.
No help to you Lawrence as you already have the hard lines,good luck anyway mate.

Posted by: PNW_Boxer993 Feb 27 2017, 12:59 AM

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hxFRQTWLetw

Posted by: db9146 Feb 27 2017, 06:20 AM

Lawrence,
Leave the front grommet in place to guide the line. I did take the grommet at the firewall out so that I had more room to move it around starting out and that helped. Then some silicone spray when sliding the firewall grommet over the installed line. Took me a little while to do both by myself but it is possible (I didn't think so when I first started).

Posted by: mepstein Feb 27 2017, 06:25 AM

I don't take out any grommets. I lube the ss line and the gromet and use a helper to sight along the tunnel. Takes 5 minutes. It should slide easily with lube. No bending required.
* I've always had the engine out when I've done it.

Posted by: 6freak Feb 27 2017, 08:49 AM

its is! fuck it through it all away

Posted by: BeatNavy Feb 27 2017, 08:58 AM

Agree with all who said you need a helper. It shouldn't be that hard with a second person. My son made himself useful and helped me get it done, and it's one of the few things I've done that isn't in my "Well that was a PITA!!! " category.

And I did it with engine in car.

Posted by: clapeza Feb 27 2017, 09:06 AM

I feel your pain, brother!!

Racer Chris's stainless lines are terrific, but can be a challenge if the engine is still in the car. Mine were doing the same thing as yours - get a foot or so in then stop dead. Here's what helped for me:

Remove the right rear wheel.
Unbolt the shifter's three bolts so you can pull it up and to the left a little.
Reach inside the tunnel and flatten out the metal tabs that secure the lines.
Lube up the rear grommet (if still there) with glycerin.
Start sliding the supply line, the one on the right, first. As it goes in, rotate it clockwise to keep the front end bend pointing downward as it advances. You may have to wiggle it a bit. You shouldn't have to force it at any point. If it hangs, back up and move forward, twisting a little as you go.
It helps to have an assistant spot the line from above, and apply a little bit of downward pressure when you can see it through the rear most access hole.
With luck, you'll hit the sweet spot and it'll move forward smoothly.
Lube up the front grommet as well.
You can pull the line forward from inside the cockpit to feed it through the grommet.
If you don't have, or trashed, the rear grommet, 914Rubber makes a nice slide in replacement.
Thankfully, the return line, the one on the left, is much easier to feed.

Good luck! Hope this helps!!

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 27 2017, 09:18 AM

This and WD40.

Posted by: Steve Feb 27 2017, 09:54 AM

I removed mine and drilled it out a bit for the bigger SS lines.
It is a bit of a bitch getting the lines through. I taped the ends, so crap wouldn't get in them, while i'm playing twist and shout getting them through the tunnel.

Posted by: toolguy Feb 27 2017, 10:16 AM

The first one did I tied a string to the plastic lines and pulled it through the tunnel when I removed the OE lines. . You might try getting a wire through the car end to end first and then slide the new tubing over it, using it as a guide.

Pull the tunnel cover at the rear and the shifter in the middle for visual. . As it remember there are tabs that hold the plastic lines in place and the mid bulkhead that you have to navigate around and through. . .

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 27 2017, 10:29 AM

I'll give it another try today with the right rear wheel off and I only have the one big line to install.

I watched the video, my experience wasn't anything close to how those went in.

Posted by: forrestkhaag Feb 27 2017, 10:41 AM

I used a fish tape run from the front to the back dragged thru with the original plastic line.

With low pressure carbs, you only need one line so if your plastic is still there, you have two shots at it. Otherwise lube up and stuff it / you have that one down!

Posted by: mtndawg Feb 27 2017, 12:17 PM

I just did this with my car. The tunnel photos in this thread helped me.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=281316

Posted by: 914_teener Feb 27 2017, 02:14 PM

I got a boroscope for Christmas.

Very cool. You can get the Android ones for $35 bucks.

There is a thread on them with the link.

Posted by: Keith914 Feb 27 2017, 03:43 PM

Note, the pictures are very helpful but do not show the fuel pipes, which lie next to the passenger side of the tunnel.

Posted by: turk22 Feb 27 2017, 06:33 PM

But the music was very soothing....

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 27 2017, 07:57 PM

The boroscope idea is great!

I have one. Thank you!

Posted by: mepstein Feb 28 2017, 06:43 AM

There are 2 access panels to look through. You really don't need a horoscope. The first time I did one, my teenage son helped me spot it down the tunnel with his cell phone flashlight. Took less than 10 minutes for both lines and I did not loosen or remove the shifter. WD-40 isn't lube. Use a real lube and it will slide easily. You might have to rotate it some as your spotter helps you sight it down the tunnel.

Posted by: Amphicar770 Feb 28 2017, 12:51 PM

I used wire puller lube on the steel line and gromet. That worked well.

Engine was out when I did mine but rotation of fuel line was key. It got hung up, I removed and tried at a different angle and it went right in.

Bore scope has become a must have tool for the 914.

Posted by: PlantMan Feb 28 2017, 12:56 PM

Yep, I just got a scope too for about $20 on Amazon....
Hooks up to the phone.

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 28 2017, 02:50 PM

I'm using a boroscope, I watched the video, tried everything. No luck.

Rubber tip is now gone, at one point, I couldn't get it back out. Really frustrating. I got it quite a ways in, it seemed to go all the way to the original clips, but then wouldn't go any farther no matter what I did.

I wish I would have just kept the 10mm soft line in there, it was in perfect condition.

Posted by: mepstein Feb 28 2017, 04:07 PM

What is keeping it from moving forward? Has to be something. Are you using a helper?

Posted by: clapeza Feb 28 2017, 06:38 PM

Mine did exactly the same thing at one point. Really frustrating!

Just spit-balling here:

Which hole are you feeding it through? The 10mm line hole on the right or the 8mm hole on the left? Would it fit into the hole on the left? Since that one is closer to the centerline of the car, it's less likely to catch on the sidewall of the tunnel. My 10mm line was a pain to get installed, but the 8mm line seemed to go much easier. You said it was for a carb set-up, so it doesn't matter which hole in the rear firewall it's going through, since you're only running one line. (Although many support a return line for fuel circulation.)

If the holes are of different sizes...nevermind!

Other ideas: have your spotter topside watch as the line moves forward in the tunnel. When it gets stuck, back it up a little and have them push down on it with only a little bit of pressure. I know it feels like it's getting caught on a tiny edge when it stops.
It's the upwards angle of trying to get it in with the engine still in the car that introduces the challenge.

Good luck! Keep trying...don't give up.

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 28 2017, 07:44 PM

I tried and tried with the right hole, then tried the left 8mm hole.

It went right in. Drrrrrrr.....

Posted by: Coondog Feb 28 2017, 10:56 PM

I always thought the larger hole was easier then the smaller hole.......or was that what she thought.....

Posted by: Larmo63 Feb 28 2017, 11:11 PM

The smaller hole was easier, and smelled better.

Posted by: sjhenry1075 Apr 14 2017, 01:37 PM

This is what I did and it literally took me about 10 minutes for both. I sat under the car with my feet towards the front of the car. I fed the lines into the hole and pushed. As I pushed the lines I twisted them left and right. Each line went into the tunnel and all the way forward to the access panel near the pedals. Every time it seemed as if they were held up I twisted some more and they eventually worked their way forward.