Am stoked! The wife and I just picked up our AX 914 hauler just south of Redding. It's a 16 ft open trailer with 5ft ramps and 4 in drop axels. Got a great deal.
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I am a newbie with a trailer.... where is the best place for the 914 to sit???? Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!!!
ot. clean your gutters, down spouts, and roof, man. the cost of roof/ framing damage will make your 914 costs seem like penney candy.
kevin
There is a method to weigh Tongue Weight...
(look on pelican or rennlist for old threads)
I played with mine and when it was good, I drilled holes and dropped in permanent wheel chocks.
brant
NIce trailer! I got a cheap one. $600, good deal for a college kid.
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LOVE the paint job, Charcoal? w/ black side stripes/script...looks Boss man
to be safe tounge weight needs to be 10-15 % of total load. assuming a 2300# car and a 800# trailer, you need a minimum of 310# of weight on the ball.
if you have mechanical brakes on the trailer the tounge/trailer needs to be as close to level as possible.
looks nice. wish i had one.
So the tongue weight should be 10-15% of the total? The trailer is about 1200lbs, and the car 2300lbs so 3500lbs x .125 is about 430lbs. Is that right? I also have electric brakes on the trailer controlled by an adjustable switch at the driver's seat. Does this make a difference?
My tow car is a 4Runner. The backend sags like any 4Runner. Should I go with airshocks or HD gas shocks?
Lastly, with 4in drop axels, I'm scraping up the driveway in the rear where the ramps stow, and at the tow hitch lift. What can I do to keep it from scraping?
THANKS!
I would say yes to air shocks (or an air bag suspension) and an onboard compressor / airtank. You'll get the control you need to keep everything level.
Are you scraping because of a dip at the end of your driveway? You may need to make some ramps out of plywood to ease the transition coming in from the street.
The PO of my trailer installed steel casters on the tail end, because the private road he lived on had some severe dips/inclines. It's not a bad idea, compared to the alternative...scraping the hell out of the trailer when it hits bottom
i have to use 6-10" drop recievers to keep my rudder out of the pavement on two of my boats. heavy duty casters are a good idea,, but just going slow or approaching on an angle will work most times. do a search on wakeboarder.com for some caster pictures.
toys ride pretty firm to begin with. search the 4-wheel sites for the next stiffer leaf springs or helper springs. can you lower the front torsion bar? air shocks would be a last resort. the shock mounts are not really designed to be load bearing.
EVERTIME i hook something up to the back of my truck, i go 50 feet and get out and double check. i have had two trailers come off. a bobcat once, not enough tounge weight on a worn out rental trailer . a gradywhite boat that the boat owner hooked up and i did not check it. made it 10'before it poped off the ball. again, not enough tounge weight.
I'm scraping because 1) my driveway is funky 2) the trailer is really low, 3) the ramp racks sit lower, and 4) the front crank / jack only comes up 4 inches from the bottom of the trailer.
Angles and Ramps are great ideas.
The 4Runner didn't sag much without the car on, but it did some with the car on. Would you suggest HD gas shocks vs air shocks?
Another question: the ramps are ladder style. Is this a bad idea for driving on Kuhmo AX tires??
If you cover the ladder ramps with some plywood it will be easier to drive on and off. Just drill some holes and bolt the plywood to the ramps.
Paul
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