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Posted by: yellow75 Apr 19 2017, 07:19 AM

I have been trying to track down a leak in my transaxle. New seal and O ring in speedo angle drive. needed that but it didn't fix the drip.So I cleaned the trans with brake clean and took it out for a drive. Gear oil seems to be coming from the front part of the gearbox where it meets the engine case and coming out the vent hole at the bottom of the bell housing case. Given all that, I'm thinking the input shaft seal is leaking. Am I on the right track? Any other usual suspect places that it could be coming from?

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 19 2017, 08:36 AM

Yep, your on the right trail. It is easily removed w/o splitting the trans.

Posted by: yellow75 Apr 19 2017, 12:40 PM

same as a VW? Is trans removal a one man job?

Posted by: porschetub Apr 19 2017, 02:28 PM

Easier than a VW,top starter bolt is a bitch to get at till you drop the trans down a bit before blocking the motor up.
Get on to it soon before the leak ruins your clutch disk,make sure you replace the throw out lever cup bush and the sliders for your bearing.
I made a wooden base for my jack and strapped the trans to it....then its a one man operation.

Posted by: Ferg Apr 19 2017, 02:50 PM

Depending on how dirty it is source of leak can be confusing.

Before you drop it make sure it's not an easier fix like the output shaft seals.

Posted by: saigon71 Apr 19 2017, 03:38 PM

The leak from the bell housing is most likely the input shaft seal.

I started losing a lot of tranny fluid from that area last year. Not wanting to take the car off the road, I kept driving it. The leak sprayed on my brand new Sach's clutch, causing it to burn out in about 4000 miles.

It's not a bad job. I put a screw in the old one and slide hammered it out. Used a piece of PVC to drive the new one in.

Posted by: yellow75 Apr 19 2017, 08:10 PM

OK you have given me faith. I have good tools and a hydraulic floor jack. Also have a furniture dolly. Do I have to loosen the motor mounts as well or will the motor sag enough, (supported of course) to pull the trans out? I suppose the muffler has to go as well. HE's can stay as I see it. I may just do the clutch TO bearing and pressure plate while i'm in there. the car has 68K original miles so it may be due. Hate to take it out twice. I will re-seal the whole gear box while it's out as well I think.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Apr 19 2017, 09:47 PM

Loosen the motor mount bolts, it reduces the strain on the rubber part of the mounts when you tilt the motor. Remove the muffler, but the exchangers can stay.

--DD

Posted by: falcor75 Apr 19 2017, 09:59 PM

Thats how I did mine.

Remember to stock up on new driveshaft seals and M8 Schnorr washers before you put it back in there again.

Posted by: euro911 Apr 19 2017, 10:51 PM

You might contact Mark Heard (914Sixer) to see if he still has any OEM German input shaft seals left.

While you're in there, might not be a bad idea to remove the flywheel and replace the motor's rear main seal too (with a Sabo brand) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sabo-029105245-Engine-Crankshaft-Seal-/121953723422?fits=Make%3AVolkswagen%7CModel%3A412&hash=item1c6502241e:g:jssAAOSwA3dYl1KG&vxp=mtr

GoWesty recommends this brand and there are many happy campers (literally) benefiting from them.

and a new flywheel O-ring