I borrowed Bill Pickering's Renegade HB and notice differences with my old Jaide sourced HB...
The shaft collar is taller on the Jaide. I thought these were "standard" GM 6 cyl HB's.
The Renegade HB (even with the spacer) will actually "work" without modification since I lost .25" with a Milodon timing gear drive. The whole issue is alignment with the alt and water pump pulleys.
Question 1, are the taller collared HB's still available and is any other converter using them? I know DH has a set of spacers behind the HB.
Question 2, What is the clearance between inner HB surface to engine block? Seems the Renegade is mounted pretty close to the block...
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Jaide HB, long collar...
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Renegade HB with spacer...
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I think you will find that your Jaide is for a 283 engine. They were different. I have one on mine and it is just like yours. The 283 also didnt have a bolt holding it on the front of the crank. It is pressed on instead. It really doesnt make me feel secure with it not bolted but I figured if GM designed it that way, it must be ok. So far it has worked just fine. If you are running a different engine this time ie: 350 later block, I would go with the RH or DH HB.
QUOTE (skline @ May 9 2005, 07:03 AM) |
I think you will find that your Jaide is for a 283 engine. They were different. I have one on mine and it is just like yours. The 283 also didnt have a bolt holding it on the front of the crank. It is pressed on instead. It really doesnt make me feel secure with it not bolted but I figured if GM designed it that way, it must be ok. So far it has worked just fine. If you are running a different engine this time ie: 350 later block, I would go with the RH or DH HB. |
I've always questioned using that HB that is designed and built for a low reving 6cyl. engine on the V8 (didn't use it on mine)
Think about it spinning at 6/7k RPM 5 inches from your butt.
All of the drag race sanctioning bodys make you use a SFI approved aftermarket harmonic balancer on any car that runs 13 seconds or faster in the 1/4 mile.
Bob
Hey Felix,
So I recently went through this same problem on my 383 stroker motor. But I had additional complications because my motor is externally balanced due to the use of a 400 crank. That's another story. My motor is also mounted in a little different position then most, so clearence issues at the front pulleys may be different. I am running the standard (short collar) double grooved pulley which is available new from RS and RH and remanufactured/new from "Damper Dudes" in Northern CA. I have seen two types of spacers, stamped and machined (~.100" and .25" respectively).
I have also seen guys run a single groove pulley mounted on the front of a standard balancer. You'll need to have an electric pump if you eliminate the second groove/belt.
Whatever you do make sure you have the belts lined up properly. When I threw belts my motor would overheat in seconds without the waterpump spinning. A neat trick for alignment is to position a laser pointer in the groove of one pulley and to project the beam into the other pulley to confirm alignment.
Chris
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