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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ options for first start - oil priming

Posted by: Optimusglen May 5 2017, 07:40 AM

Hey all, my project is coming along and this weekend I will probably try the first start.

It was a rebuild down to the shortblock, 1911 with dual Webers.

I've heard of a few methods for priming the oil chambers and wanted to see if there was a preferred method you guys use.

Option 1: disconnect fuel pump and just crank it over until the oil pressure light goes out.

Option 2: disconnect fuel pump and remove spark plugs and valve rocker assemblies to reduce load on the starter and crank. Turn over until oil pressure light goes out.

Option 3: fabricate an oil can that can take air pressure, hose comes out and connected to where the oil pressure switch goes. Pressurize the can and push 2 qts into the engine, add the rest of the oil to the filler.

Any other methods?

Posted by: The Cabinetmaker May 5 2017, 08:17 AM

Does down to the short block mean you did not split the case? I hate to guess.

Posted by: McMark May 5 2017, 08:20 AM

First and foremost, DON'T fill the filter with oil. This will work against you.

When I'm starting a fresh motor, I take an oil can and pump oil directly to the pump so it's fully primed.

Just remove the oil filter, and stick the flexible tube into the hole in the side of the filter mount. The big one in the middle goes out to the engine, the ball valve is just a pressure relief, but there is a small hole in the side of the 'dome' that goes directly to the pump.

I usually pump oil in there until it dribbles out. Then reinstall the filter and you're ready. Well, that and don't rush. Give the oil a bit of time to seep into the cavities of the oil pump. 2 or 3minutes is fine, and there's no specific number.

The pump design is terrible at pumping air. But if you crank without priming the pump, you're asking the pump to do just that until it manages to slowly pull enough oil up into the pump to prime. And using a thick oil like Brad Penn 20/50 makes it even harder to suck up into the pump. By filing the pump from the top we're allowing the pump to work at it's most effective capacity right from the start.

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Posted by: Optimusglen May 5 2017, 08:22 AM

QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ May 5 2017, 09:17 AM)

Does down to the short block mean you did not split the case? I hate to guess.

Yes.

Posted by: Optimusglen May 5 2017, 08:28 AM

QUOTE(McMark @ May 5 2017, 09:20 AM)

Just remove the oil filter, and stick the flexible tube into the hole in the side of the filter mount. The big one in the middle goes out to the engine, the ball valve is just a pressure relief, but there is a small hole in the side of the 'dome' that goes directly to the pump.

Trying to figure out where the small hole is, is this it?

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Posted by: McMark May 5 2017, 08:29 AM

Added bold in my post above.

Posted by: McMark May 5 2017, 08:30 AM

Here

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Posted by: Optimusglen May 5 2017, 08:35 AM

perfect, thank you. Seems like a good method. I had already read that adding oil to the filter beforehand is counterproductive, so it's dry.

Posted by: McLovin May 5 2017, 09:28 AM

With the few new engines I've owned, one thing I did was change the oil very, very early. Like after the first 100 miles. The reasoning is that there are metal shards floating around in there and it's best to get them out as soon as possible once you're running the engine routinely.