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Posted by: funk May 15 2017, 08:15 PM

Hello someone was making relay boards like the fuse boxes wevo makes but relay boards anyone know where to buy? specifically a 914 world vender?thanks

Posted by: bdstone914 May 15 2017, 11:22 PM

Never seen any relay boards but original. Some members have sold refurbished relay boards. Maybe that was what you saw.
Bruce

Posted by: jd74914 May 15 2017, 11:42 PM

Do you mean the one Steve R designed/built?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=259295

Posted by: funk May 16 2017, 12:17 AM

yep those are the ones thanks wow I thought they were abit cheaper? some boards are just malfunctioning units

Posted by: Amphicar770 May 16 2017, 07:33 AM

Steve R seems to have vanished. He was going to get back to me about a year ago on one he was finishing up but never heard anything. Pinged him a few weeks ago but radio silence. I'm thinking he no longer is making these but not sure.

Posted by: N_Jay May 16 2017, 07:48 AM

I was chatting with another member about trying to make a replacement board.

I liked Steve R's, but we really don't need solid-state relays, and could use some added flexibility.

I was thinking of a board that fits the space, has the multiconnector pins installed and has 5 or 6 standard automotive relay sockets and several standard fuse points.

People could then wire it for any car, or make modifications easily, such as adding a fuel prime button, a crank button, and maybe an ignition bypass for test and tune work.

Posted by: JoeD May 16 2017, 02:18 PM

I bought one of his boards; it is a work of art and worth every penny considering the level of craftsmanship.

As I understand it, he built a few as a one-off. One was for himself, and the others he built to sell to offset the cost of producing the one basically. He was never in the business of making or selling any more than these.

I just read in another post that 914Rubber is working on a new SS board, so if you can wait, that may be the way to go.

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 16 2017, 10:52 AM

What's the status on this? I just got stuck on the side of the highway today for the second time. I got it flat-bedded home and I'm sure it's the same problem as before: the relay plate.

I'm tired of this, ready to buy a new replay plate/relays and a new wiring harness. Let's make this happen!

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 18 2017, 07:52 AM

A bump for a troubleshooting update on this new problem.

Summary of symptoms. Car burbled a couple times on me over the last couple weeks. Kept running. Monday morning it died on highway, and would not restart. Key on, no pump action. I swapped fuel pump and power relays with known-good ones (tested in the heater blower slot) and pump would not activate. I did not have the 3" piece of wire I needed to jump a relay, so I had the car towed home.

Troubleshooting included re-swap and re-test of relays, no go. Jumped 30 and 87 on the fuel pump relay slot, pump works. Since the control circuit of that relay is at the ECU, could not easily test it. However, I did not have power at 85 on that relay so I moved my inspection to the power relay.

Same as before, known good relays, jumped 30 and 87 to bypass and still no fuel pump. That should have momentarily kicked on the fuel pump but it did not. Checked for voltage at 30 (good) and resisted ground at 87 (to the ECU, good) and yet I still did not get the fuel pump to come on. That made absolutely no sense.

Just as a test I jumped straight from the + battery terminal to the power relay 87 terminal -- and the fuel pump momentarily kicked on! Ok, I again short-jumped power relay 30 and 87...and no pump. I rechecked for voltage at 30, I had 12.5V. Just for kicks, short-jumped 85 and 87...and pump kicked on. This makes no sense!

So, TL;DR, I had 12V voltage to the power relay, but apparently not enough amperage to even activate the solenoid side of it. I re-installed all relays, still no pump; I tapped the relay plate with a ball peen and had momentary pump actuation. Two minutes later, no pump again. But jumping power relay 85 and 87 and everything works (wouldn't want to run that way for long; the 85 circuit is not designed to do that).

I am hoping among hopes that this is internal to the relay plate. A very gracious person is loaning me a known-good plate while we work on getting these repro'd in a better design. But if this is a wiring problem at the big forward plug, this is going to be a major PITA to resolve, since that harness, as best I can tell, goes deep into the car and is not easy to replace/repair...

We laugh about the rust on these cars. But the electrics have high possibility of parking a lot...

Posted by: 914Sixer Oct 18 2017, 12:55 PM

What's the shipping information? I will be happy to send you a known, tested, resealed board.

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 18 2017, 01:24 PM

Mark, thanks! I appreciate it, but do have one coming already. If that doesn't work out I may send you a PM?

When I swap these I'm'a gonna see if I can do some light surgery and discover the failure point.

Posted by: 914Sixer Oct 18 2017, 03:05 PM

Sure, shoot me a PM.

Posted by: Matty900 Oct 18 2017, 04:04 PM

I was having a similar issue. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=275587&view=findpost&p=2532812

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 22 2017, 07:30 AM

Update. Received the new relay board (thanks, M!) and before swapping I went through all the same troubleshooting procedures above on the old board to ensure it wasn't a gremlin. Same results, so it's repeatable. I installed the replacement board (with a healthy dose of dieletric grease) and the car fired right up. Beautiful New England Fall day, sunny and 70s, and it was a joy to drive.

In inspecting my board I noticed that some of the pins of T14, including my suspect #12, were "smashed together." You know what I mean: the four quarters of the male pins were squished or collapsed together, such that the slots were closed. Given that my troubleshooting revealed that I had voltage but apparently not enough amperage to activate the solenoids, it's quite possible that this was the core issue.

So, as with Matt's link above, we should probably check these male and female terminals regularly, ensuring the male ends are not collapsed, and the female ends not expanded or corroded. In my case I used a razor blade to slide into the slots and gently pry them apart, and I may get motivated this winter to swap them out and see what happens...