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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Gauging interest for a 914 breather/puke tank
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 13 2017, 11:13 AM
I built this as my very first aluminum TIG welding project, welds are definitely not up to Ben's standards, but I'm starting to get the hang of it. Bit more practice an I should have decent welds. Also the aluminum was a scrap sheet that been sitting outside for years, so that likely didn't help matters.
But overall seeing as it's my first effort I'm pretty happy with it.
Would do a couple things different for a short run production, use the next size up petcock valve, weld the baffles in a bit different, etc.
I made it to clear the factory trunk springs, but not intrude into the engine bay much. It has a petcock and a tube, so to drain you stick an oil pan under the /6 cooler and open the valve. It's fully baffled and holds over a quart of puke. The barb's are 1" but I could also check out what's involved with using AN fittings.
I would likely have them power coated semi-gloss black.
I have the patterns for it so it would be easy to make more.
I have to check the price of materials, parts, powder coating, etc, but I'm thinking $150-$175, or $200 + ship and I supply the black braid hose and clamps.
So is there any interest? 
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Posted by: 6freak Jun 13 2017, 02:58 PM
did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
Posted by: johnhora Jun 13 2017, 03:36 PM
Mark...that's a clever design...looks good too!
Posted by: JmuRiz Jun 13 2017, 06:53 PM
I like the design a lot!
Does it fit with a stock airbox, or just webber 'hat' filter covers?
If you don't want to semi-mass produce them maybe you can get mb911's help.
Posted by: 6freak Jun 14 2017, 08:44 AM
did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
the steel wool gives the oil something to stick to and return it back to liquid form instead of just floating around in a tank ,flexible drain tube strait out the bottom ,I never have to touch it
Posted by: Norskpole Jun 14 2017, 09:38 AM
I'd be interested in one
Posted by: Travis Neff Jun 14 2017, 09:52 AM
Interested
Posted by: Mblizzard Jun 14 2017, 10:07 AM
Interested. I always seem to have some oil inside my stock 2.0 plenum. I had always assumed it was the connection between the oil fill at the PCV valve and the bottom of the Plenum. I was assuming I would replace this connection with catch can at some point if that is the correct plumbing. 
Posted by: rktmn247 Jun 14 2017, 10:11 AM
Interested.
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 14 2017, 12:12 PM
I like the design a lot!
Does it fit with a stock airbox, or just webber 'hat' filter covers?
If you don't want to semi-mass produce them maybe you can get mb911's help.
Thank you
On a /6 it has the same size nipple as the DWD tank filler neck so it should fit the stock plenum as well. Basically I would make the nipple any size you want with the only upcharge being if you want AN fittings.
I would get Ben (mb911) to made them, but honestly practice makes perfect. Plus I'm enjoying playing with my new TIG welder.
did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
BTDT problem is the wool breaks down after awhile and would need to be replaced and it could also cause issues with the petcock valve.
I also will not build one with a crap breather vent filter, if you have one fine, but that's why you always have a coating of oil on everything.
My tank is sealed, it has a series of baffle plates the vapor has to snake through, that's why the inlet is lower than the outlet. Oil vapor and condensation collects on the plates and drips down to the sump. The sump is also baffled so the puke can't slosh around. The sump has more than a quart capacity so if you empty it every oil change it should never have much in it.
It should be only the finest of vapor that goes to the intake to be burned off by the engine.
It will be 4-6 weeks before I have time to go at this and those who are interested I'll ask for a small deposit at that time. I obviously want to use new material and I'll check out the price of hose, etc.
Posted by: Mblizzard Jun 14 2017, 12:56 PM
I like the design a lot!
Does it fit with a stock airbox, or just webber 'hat' filter covers?
If you don't want to semi-mass produce them maybe you can get mb911's help.
Thank you
On a /6 it has the same size nipple as the DWD tank filler neck so it should fit the stock plenum as well. Basically I would make the nipple any size you want with the only upcharge being if you want AN fittings.
I would get Ben (mb911) to made them, but honestly practice makes perfect. Plus I'm enjoying playing with my new TIG welder.
did you put steel wool inside , I heard it helps...I did the same but mines a round tube your is a bit more tucked away
BTDT problem is the wool breaks down after awhile and would need to be replaced and it could also cause issues with the petcock valve.
I also will not build one with a crap breather vent filter, if you have one fine, but that's why you always have a coating of oil on everything.
My tank is sealed, it has a series of baffle plates the vapor has to snake through, that's why the inlet is lower than the outlet. Oil vapor and condensation collects on the plates and drips down to the sump. The sump is also baffled so the puke can't slosh around. The sump has more than a quart capacity so if you empty it every oil change it should never have much in it.
It should be only the finest of vapor that goes to the intake to be burned off by the engine.
It will be 4-6 weeks before I have time to go at this and those who are interested I'll ask for a small deposit at that time. I obviously want to use new material and I'll check out the price of hose, etc.
As long as you don't hit me with a chair i will send a$100 deposit.
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 14 2017, 01:23 PM
Where does the pressure go then?
When i first fired up my 3.6L i made the mistake of using a sealed puke can and i almost blew out the engine case seals.
Posted by: Andyrew Jun 14 2017, 01:32 PM
I like it!!! Im building one out of stainless steel, and my location will be different than yours, but that price is spot on for a custom fit aluminum tank!
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 14 2017, 02:06 PM
Where does the pressure go then?
When i first fired up my 3.6L i made the mistake of using a sealed puke can and i almost blew out the engine case seals.
It has to vent to the intake, carb, air cleaner... I guess you could vent to under the car, but that's not environmentally sound.
It's sealed in the sense that you can't open the tank, there's no reason to.
The tank's purpose is to collect excess oil and condensation. Also as a extra protection if spirited driving kicks up extra oil into the vent.
Venting to the intake doesn't hurt anything, all cars vent to the intake, PCV .
I've run a similar setup in every performance engine I've built for over 30 years.
Posted by: Andyrew Jun 14 2017, 02:09 PM
Curious how you ran the inners and what kind of baffling you did. Got any pics of that?
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 14 2017, 02:11 PM
Where does the pressure go then?
When i first fired up my 3.6L i made the mistake of using a sealed puke can and i almost blew out the engine case seals.
It has to vent to the intake, carb, air cleaner... I guess you could vent to under the car, but that's not environmentally sound.
It's sealed in the sense that you can't open the tank, there's no reason to.
The tank's purpose is to collect excess oil and condensation. Venting to the intake doesn't hurt anything, all cars vent to the intake, PCV .
I've run a similar setup in every performance engine I've built for over 30 years.
Ok, just checking. And yes, my current Gatorade bottle vents to the intake as well ...
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 14 2017, 02:15 PM
dp
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 14 2017, 02:31 PM
Ok, just checking. And yes, my current Gatorade bottle vents to the intake as well ...
Posted by: LowBridge Jun 14 2017, 03:53 PM
well done... TIG welling aluminum is hard or was hard for me.. one second you have aluminum and the next second you have a puddle...
it looks fantastic and high marks for finding a very clever spot to mount it..
10/10
Posted by: mb911 Jun 14 2017, 04:18 PM
Mark,
Nice design.. Don't worry not going to steal it .. I would be happy to help if you need it down the road. I will soon have a webstore and we could work together if you like
Posted by: mmascari Jun 14 2017, 08:04 PM
I would be interested as well. I have been contemplating buying the PMS kit but I like the way yours is designed to fit.
Posted by: porschetub Jun 14 2017, 10:01 PM
Quote...oil puking out from a shit breather filter and all that.....hhhmmmm ,not happening with mine using the same system,the stock system was a hose back to the air filter neck if I remember,done some hard driving in mine and do see fumes which I presume is from moisture....never seen any oil vapour in 593kms of driving.
Any oil I may have will return back to the filler neck and return to tank,still remains clean to this day.
Some may have other idea's but I really like the design and think this would be great for a wet sump 4 that's see's some AX,racing or fast twisty corners action.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jun 14 2017, 10:26 PM
Quote...oil puking out from a shit breather filter and all that.....hhhmmmm ,not happening with mine using the same system,the stock system was a hose back to the air filter neck if I remember,done some hard driving in mine and do see fumes which I presume is from moisture....never seen any oil vapour in 593kms of driving.
Any oil I may have will return back to the filler neck and return to tank,still remains clean to this day.
Some may have other idea's but I really like the design and think this would be great for a wet sump 4 that's see's some AX,racing or fast twisty corners action.
Is that a gas shock attached to the hinge of the rear trunk hood/bonnet?
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 15 2017, 01:05 PM
Looks like I have to play with my nipples a bit 
The outlet is pointing right at a rain hat. 
Easy fix
At least you know that the prototype design will be based on an actual install.
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Posted by: Mblizzard Jun 15 2017, 05:25 PM
FYI ordered cheap transition puke box waiting on this. Your design design is far beyond elegant. I am not a smart man (Forrest Gump) but this is clearly a quality solution.
Posted by: 6freak Jun 16 2017, 02:49 PM
its more like steel brillow ,pretty heavy duty stuff and its been a lot of years since the old fella has done that and no breakdown issues. Mine is sealed as well (cant remove the media) with a small 1/4 inch hole in the top with no mist coming out but its there incase the bottom tube plugs up for some reason...I have not found a good way to mount mine yet !don't wanna drill holes ,I see your design is bolted to the rear fire wall , that looks good... I just cant do it that way...was gonna look at mounting under the car ?? but where.... BTW nice work Mr
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 16 2017, 03:34 PM
Yeh.. I hate drilling holes as well, just a a necessary evil. I used riv-nuts, but self tapping screws would also work in a pinch.
If one was totally dead set against drilling holes there's a couple of factory holes close by on the engine/trunk firewall and if I made a bracket you likely could secure that with T bolts. I just don't know if all years 914's had these holes and in the same location.
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 21 2017, 11:38 AM
Some smog hose and /6 tank questions.
I take it the vent off the oil tank itself goes to the top of the crankcase and is a 25mm ID hose
Is this correct?
And should this have the factory one way valve (PCV)? and should this be going engine to the tank?
The other vent that comes off the filler neck, to the puke tank and then to carbs, correct?
The outlet off my filler neck is again 25mm, but does it need to be 25mm ID hose to the carbs?
Seems to me you could use a much smaller hose.
The hole opening in rain hats is only 20mm and to me this would really only need to be standard 12mm ID smog hose.
Sure would bring down the cost on breather hose, the 25mm is $30 a meter and the 12mm is only about $12 a meter.
I don't know what the vent hose size is going into the stock MFI, CIS, motec intakes, can someone clear that up for me as well. Does this hose step down in size? Or is it 25mm (ID) as well
I'm using a DWD oil tank which I believe has all the same fitting locations and sizes as a stock tank.
Ben does your tank also have the vent holes in the same location as stock?
I hope to fix the prototype tank this weekend and I need to order hose.
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 21 2017, 11:50 AM
Them green hoses were cheap ...
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 21 2017, 12:47 PM
Them green hoses were cheap ...
Are those rad/heater core hose?
The guy at NAPA warned me that they would break down over time if used with oil.
He did say 1" fuel line would work and I thought about covering that with braided expansion sleeve. He didn't have 1" fuel hose but said I should be able to get it at a truck supply shop.
Not that it matters with my build, but personally I'm looking for a more correct looking solution.
Posted by: mb911 Jun 21 2017, 12:51 PM
Some smog hose and /6 tank questions.
I take it the vent off the oil tank itself goes to the top of the crankcase and is a 25mm ID hose
Is this correct?
And should this have the factory one way valve (PCV)? and should this be going engine to the tank?
The other vent that comes off the filler neck, to the puke tank and then to carbs, correct?
The outlet off my filler neck is again 25mm, but does it need to be 25mm ID hose to the carbs?
Seems to me you could use a much smaller hose.
The hole opening in rain hats is only 20mm and to me this would really only need to be standard 12mm ID smog hose.
Sure would bring down the cost on breather hose, the 25mm is $30 a meter and the 12mm is only about $12 a meter.
I don't know what the vent hose size is going into the stock MFI, CIS, motec intakes, can someone clear that up for me as well. Does this hose step down in size? Or is it 25mm (ID) as well
I'm using a DWD oil tank which I believe has all the same fitting locations and sizes as a stock tank.
Ben does your tank also have the vent holes in the same location as stock?
I hope to fix the prototype tank this weekend and I need to order hose.
Yes Mark same as stock on my tanks..
Posted by: SirAndy Jun 21 2017, 02:38 PM
The guy at NAPA warned me that they would break down over time if used with oil.
I can get you the specs on them hoses tonight but it's been 10 years and no break down of any sort so i doubt they're going to disintegrate any time soon.
Posted by: 6freak Jun 25 2017, 06:41 AM
This is the one I made ! works perfect, in the picture I see a possible spot to mount a bracket
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 25 2017, 07:05 AM
Same area I mounted mine.
I still have to cut and re-weld the bungs, but I think I have the hose to weber rain hats figured out for a nice super clean install.
For weber rain hats I'm going to offer it as a complete kit, puke tank, all hose, fittings, grommets and hardware.
I'll try to post prototype pic's later today.
The weber kit would also work for a dual carb /4, but you would have to drill a hole in your air cleaner top.
I can easily make a version to use on stock FI /4's.
I still need to know what size hose from the puke tank to stock /6 intakes.
Posted by: 6freak Jun 25 2017, 09:39 AM
Same area I mounted mine.
I still have to cut and re-weld the bungs, but I think I have the hose to weber rain hats figured out for a nice super clean install.
For weber rain hats I'm going to offer it as a complete kit, puke tank, all hose, fittings, grommets and hardware.
I'll try to post prototype pic's later today.
The weber kit would also work for a dual carb /4, but you would have to drill a hole in your air cleaner top.
I can easily make a version to use on stock FI /4's.
I still need to know what size hose from the puke tank to stock /6 intakes.
You should also take into consideration the rubber stopper thingy that keeps the engine lid from hitting the trunk lid when its open ...sorta looks like your tank is right in line with that...no idea of the hose size
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 25 2017, 09:49 AM
You should also take into consideration the rubber stopper thingy that keeps the engine lid from hitting the trunk lid when its open ...sorta looks like your tank is right in line with that...no idea of the hose size
The top of the tank is a couple inches below the decklid. Just the picture depth of field.
Posted by: 6freak Jun 25 2017, 12:13 PM
You should also take into consideration the rubber stopper thingy that keeps the engine lid from hitting the trunk lid when its open ...sorta looks like your tank is right in line with that...no idea of the hose size
The top of the tank is a couple inches below the decklid. Just the picture depth of field.
Right on! again nice work
Posted by: Mike D. Jun 25 2017, 01:22 PM
I'd be interested, anything is better than what i have now. Which is nothing... doh!
Posted by: raynekat Jun 25 2017, 09:14 PM
Definitely could be interested.
Needs to fit in there nice and tidy and not interfere with any of the air filter housings you normally see on 911 engines.
And needs to have the same size inlet/outlets so you can use a factory vent hose (the expensive one) if desired.
Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 26 2017, 06:37 AM
Definitely could be interested.
Needs to fit in there nice and tidy and not interfere with any of the air filter housings you normally see on 911 engines.
And needs to have the same size inlet/outlets so you can use a factory vent hose (the expensive one) if desired.
I'm going to offer a couple of fitting versions,
Fittings are a minor issue so I haven't been actively researching them as of yet, just working the Weber rain hat version right now.
I need other dimensions for the inlet and outlets. 1" inlet is standard for the /6, got that. I have the standard hose version for rain hats figured out.
The /4 would only be how many inlets and outlets do I need?
Big one needed is what outlets for stock FI systems and ITG filters, just 25mm for stock and weber fittings for ITG filters?
And where does the stock outlet go direction wise?
I don't want too many "custom" versions, unless I'm being paid extra, but I don't mind say 3 different versions, Weber, stock /6 and /4.
So you're saying stock should be 1" (25mm) in and out? do you have a stock FI /6? Which one?
This fits in the left rear corner of the bay behind and under the hood release cable tube, no problem with Weber's and /4, but I don't know on stock /6 FI.
Right now I'm doing major surgery to the prototype to make it fit the Weber hoses and relocating the inlet. Also I still need to get some 25mm hose, plus I want to test it, so this whole project is at least a month out before I even think about starting production.
Below is how clean I have the hose install to the Weber rain hats, this hose and fittings will be included in the Weber kit. Two separate hose runs, no cross tube, I only like a clean install.
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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 26 2017, 07:01 AM
For the /4 version I'm thinking 3 inlets, two for heads and one from the oil filler and two outs for carbs.
On FI engines that only need one outlet I could just include a cap to plug the 2nd outlet.
Edit: Dang I just bumped the thread to the next page, see my last post (#40) to see how I'm running the hose to the weber /6 rain hats.
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