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Posted by: anythingaircooled Jun 17 2017, 07:44 AM

My 73 914 just arrived from Georgia (Original color Delphi Green Metallic). I bought it site unseen and had it shipped. It was cheap and I'm a little nuts! It's a decent car that is to become a nice hotrod someday.
The first I am working on is getting the electrical issues sorted so I can drive it. The car starts, runs and drives. The following electrical problems are present.

1) No Brake lights (switch in place)
2) No headlights (they go up and down)
3) No turn Signals

I do have all running lights working with the headlight switch on. tail lights, side markers, and front lights. I have no power at fuses 1 through 5 and new fuses in place. When I dropped the fuse box everything looked ok with the exception of a light blue wire cut from the last position far right. Still have power there. Looking for some advice on where to start hunting down the issues.
Thanks
Steve

Posted by: haasman Nov 18 2017, 01:06 AM

If it were me, I'd get my old fashion test light, turn the key on and start validating at the fuse box what has current and what doesn't. While you are there be sure to twist/rotate the fuses. They are notorious for corroding in place (dissimiliar metals; fuse aluminum and contacts brass).

Make notes if a lot of the circuits are not reciving current.

Check grounds- starting at the battery & battery ground connection to body,

Having an electrical diagram helps trace from/to.

Have fun with your car.

Haasman

Posted by: Spoke Nov 18 2017, 09:00 AM

As previously mentioned, get the schematics for the car from Pelican Parts.

Also buy a volt-ohm-meter if you don't have one.

Start by checking the fuses under the driver side dash.

Pick one issue and solve it.

Check all bulb sockets to make sure they are clean and the bulbs do work.

Good luck.

Posted by: arne Nov 18 2017, 11:18 AM

I agree with the previous comments - track this systematically, step by step.

That said, in this case I suspect a bad ignition switch.

Posted by: porschetub Nov 18 2017, 01:20 PM

I found constant on and off with the ignition when I was testing curcuits took the switch out in fairly quickly,I had part of the "keyed" portion go then soon after that it failed.
Once the outer plastic housing cracks the return contact spring loses tention on the internal contacts.


IMO any car purchased with electrical issues should have this part changed otherwise you will be chasing your tail .....ask me how I know.

Posted by: marksteinhilber Nov 18 2017, 06:05 PM

I agree that the white plastic ignition switch can cause all sorts of problems for various different fused circuits. My problem was not solved with multiple new switches but by getting the year correct ignition chamber that the switch goes in. The key tumbler mechanism pushes the center part of the switch incorrectly. Also, there are multiple, four I think red wires off the positive battery terminal that feed different electrical fused circuits at the fuse panel. Check all these connections at the positive battery terminal to get power to all your fuses. Clean all ground connections all over the car to restore full voltage at the actual light and motor loads. And get the right wiring diagram for your year of car, available at AA or Jeff bowls you ate! Good luck and have fun!

Posted by: oakdalecurtis Nov 18 2017, 06:10 PM

The more you study these electrical diagrams, the easier it gets.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914_electrical_diagrams.htm