So, how does one remove and then reinstall the rubber bushing from the supporting mount? I have a press, but I'm scratching my head about how best to tackle this. Can't seem to find any relevant threads on this topic...
Well, my teenage daughter figured out that the new bushings split apart. So that's at least a clue. But need to figger' out best way to get old out.
Press. Made short work out of the original bushing. Pressed down from the top and it eventually shot out of there. The original bushing is one solid piece of rubber.
Geez, where is everybody. Must be an event going on somewhere...
Good morning BeatNavy, Yup your press did the job....I cut the top rubber off then popped it out. And you daughter is correct, new ones come in two parts. Congrats. Best, Mark
Hi...are those from 914 Rubber?
I don't see them on the website.
Yes these are our pre production ones. Matt fitted on his car, but because they were yellow didn't leave on. These are polygraphite and the only material i could get to do a trial run quickly was yellow. Decided to sent the other set out to solicit some response. And double check part.
These are a part that many people need and we will be able to provide to the market at a very reasonable price. Most cars do need these, but they can be a pain to replace, until now.
As far as design, we basically split the bushing and made a very tight tolerance for between the parts. It will function as one once assembled.
The polygraphite was another way for us to up the density of the part while maintaining the qualities desired form the rubber. These should produce a notable improvement over the old ones.
OK thanks!! I'll stand by until they are ready to go...
I'm ready to buy em!
Please post a note when they are ready for shipment?
Oh, and for those who don't have a press (and I'm going Dr. Evil here), burn em out?
Large bench vide and a socket can work, if you are really ghetto you can drill the rubber out around the center sleeve and tap it through with a hammer, it will pop out....not that I ever had to do it once this way ....
Torch does the trick, just make sure you do it when your neighbors are out back grilling - burned rubber always trumps a grilling steak
I’m ready to buy the kit. Front and back.
Actually will need a couple kits. Thanks!
I bought the polygraphite upper strut mounts from another vendor last week before I knew 914 rubber was offering them.
Inner half seems to seat completely; outer (top) half doesn't completely seat up against the steel cup. I wonder if it's supposed to be this way? There is about 3-4mm of space between the mount and the steel cup.
are you getting complete seating of this mount from 914 rubber?
We made ours with the idea that you could put it together in the assembly and then tighten it completely down into place taking up the Gap in between the two. It's a much easier installation than trying to force pretty hard polite graphite material in through a narrow diameter. The only compromise we could make the other direction was by making the material softer which we did not want to do.
The good news is you could always take a little bit off with sandpaper to make it seed in there correctly. Doesn't look like it's too far off but enough that it's standing up.
Whats the price point on these? They look great..
The GB will be $28 a set reg price $42 a set. I'll start up a GB thread shortly, just wanted to get the test fit in the car and some feedback. We have tested these off the car and they have slightly less deflection that what the stock rubber had, but was hoping to get some feedback on feel in the car. It should tighten things up.
We also have a few other items that we are putting together that may go with these to help your ride. Hoping to have them ready about the same time.
Ok, Mark, perhaps a day late and a dollar short, but we have pics on a car as well as a road test! In addition to the previous pictures, I offer the following abbreviated installation tutorial:
First, I got the car jacked up and removed the wheel. At the top of the strut, bend back the fold on the safety washer and then loosen the top strut nut (in my case, with a 22 mm socket). Here is the old strut mount and bushing on car.
Once I removed the nut I pulled the strut down to compress it and then carefully swung the whole assembly into the wheel well. Removal of the strut mount is pretty easy. It requires a #8 hex for the 3 mounting bolts. The biggest annoyance is that, on the passenger side you need to unbolt two bolts and move the fuel expansion tank out of the way to get access to the third hex bolt. (This may not be true for later cars.) Also (and this is important), before you remove the bolts take a fine marker and outline where the plates are located. This way you shouldn't mess up your caster or camber (unless you were planning on doing a full alignment anyway). Pic below is with the plates outlined:
At this point, if you don't have an extra set of strut mounts from a project car like I did, you'd use a press or vice to remove the old bushings and install the new ones. Sorry, no pics of that process. I did this a couple of weeks ago. Remounting is easy peasy, although it may take slide fiddling to get the plates lined back up with your marks. It would be a good idea to use new schnorr washers under the hex bolts.
And here is a pic from underneath:
Getting the strut back up through the mount can be a slight challenge. I used a floor jack to help push up. It's a good idea to make sure the strut top is aligned properly with the hold. Once you do get the top through the bushing, put the washer(s) on, tighten to spec, and bend up the edge of the washer.
All done passenger's side:
and driver's side (yes, I probably need a new washer):
After taking it out for a short test drive, I can give these a big thumbs up I replaced the struts and ball joints two weeks ago, and put turbo tie rods on last week, but after putting these on, the car handles better than ever.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)