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Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 22 2017, 06:51 PM

Tried to find where new members introduce themselves then figured this is as good a place as any.

Well, today I bought my 3rd mid-engine Porsche - one I never dreamed I want or own, but as it dropped from heaven into my lap, I had to take it.

I drive a stunning dream car - a 2011 Cayman S, loaded, PDK, Sport Chrono, Turbo II wheels and much more - my 2nd Cayman. Always thought the 914 was the ugliest car Porsche ever made - but then, IT IS MID-ENGINE!

Well a true barn find (in a friend's barn for 12 years, but not his, about 40 miles from me) dropped in my lap this week, and I had to take it......a mint condition, virtually no-rust 1976 914 with an almost flawless body and interior - for a cost so low that if I told you I'd be arrested for stealing it!

Been a restorer of old Triumph motorcycles for years and never ever had a thought of restoring an old car - other than any old Porsche other than a 914!

But as condition of this 914 was incredible and the cost of this '76 was close to nothing, I could not refuse.

Am so glad to find this forum to help me through getting this car on the road. I do know it was running perfectly when it was driven in my friend's barn - he had been in it a lot that day, and was in it when it rolled in the barn, running better than new.

I'll fill you all in on the details shortly after my introduction here, and look forward to meeting many of you. I'm a frequent forum poster, and my thread on finding & restoring my 1972 Triumph Bonneville is one of the oldes and longest an highest rated threads on its forum - over 2,000 posts & replies, over 200 pages, and 5-Star rated:
http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/131945-72-bonnie-from-finding-to-buying-to-fixing-up-to-riding.html

I know I'm going to need a lot of help & wisdom, and glad to find a resource that can help!

GN

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Sep 22 2017, 06:58 PM

Posted by: Mitox Sep 22 2017, 07:42 PM

Welcome from another Virginian

Posted by: second wind Sep 22 2017, 08:07 PM

Hey gatornapper.....this site only is open to people who can wrestle three alligators at a time....not just one.....what gives?? Picking on that little lizard?

HaHa...welcome aboard!!
gg

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 22 2017, 08:46 PM

gg -

Thanks to you and the other guys for the welcome.

Yeah, 1 gator at at time is my limit. I'm a wimp. Actually, you would not believe where the name came from - I was so named in a headline by a major city newspaper in 1965 - after a close friend and I "borrowed" a full-grown, 6', 200lb. alligator in a northern state for a prank. Long hilarious story, with newspaper articles in my possession - no - we were not sober. We were facing $6k fines and 6 years in jail because while we released the alligator in a pond in the woods, the pond fed a creek that led to the largest lake in Indiana, and the gator got into the big lake. Lake residents, finding a full-grown alligator in a northern Indiana lake wanted us put away for life. But we got off with a good chewing out from judge (who made us think we WERE getting life) with a $35 fine. My first taste of the mercy of God, for sure.

True story. And I have a thousand more like it.....

GN

QUOTE(second wind @ Sep 22 2017, 08:07 PM)

Posted by: Cairo94507 Sep 22 2017, 09:14 PM

I like that you "own" that name. Now put up some photos or they don't exist....seriously, this is a good crowd and you will come to love the 914.

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 22 2017, 11:36 PM

Michael -

Ok - hearing "you will come to love the 914" coming from an owner of a 997.2 says an incredible lot! Being used to a 320hp mid-engine car that is only a few lbs. heavier than the 914, I've wondered how I could ever get used to 87hp.......

The PO raced 911's in major races, even some of the 24 hour ones - and he said someday he wants a 914/6.

One of my options I'm considering is putting an older 911 engine in mine.

But tooling around in the Targa with the top off in the mountains sounds very addicting to me - so I may indeed be content with leaving it stock.

I am so glad this forum exists. Believe me - I will use it.

GN

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Sep 22 2017, 09:14 PM)

I like that you "own" that name. Now put up some photos or they don't exist....seriously, this is a good crowd and you will come to love the 914.

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 23 2017, 12:05 AM

Ok guys (& gals?) - here's the scoop on the car.

No pics yet - only took detailed close ups of possible rust areas as car is in friend's dimly lit barn. Will have pics in a few weeks after I get the car to my place. We are at Outer Banks, NC starting tomorrow thru the end of the month.

BTW, I am a pretty good mechanic (extremely active 72), having a full auto shop/4 -5 car garage at my home with 10k lb. lift. I do everything on cars, trucks, motorcycles except for machine work and body work. My garage is full of motorcycles, 3 old Triumph's I dearly love and ride regularly, a '72 Honda CB350 (nephews - helping him restore), '86 Kaw Vulcan that was my son's and I want to sell, a 20 year old Harley Wide Glide, a 2009 Harley CVO Road Glide, my son's '04 Yamaha R6 and a daughter's new 2017 Triumph Bonneville Bobber (I led her to it after she decided she didn't like her Sportster any more - she loves the Bobber and it's mine to ride when she's working! Sweet.)

I live in the hardwood forest of VA on 15 forested acres in 1,000 acres of woods with 2 log homes I and my sons built together. I am an electrical engineer who got into computers in 1979 and have a degree in English as well. Yes - I'm weird.

As I was surveying the 914 for notorious rust problems I saw something I've never seen, and it really puzzled me. Original paint & body are almost flawless. Just need buffing out. 3 tiny rust bubbles in original paint under driver side corner of windshield, driver door window, Targa bar behind driver door.

BUT, all interior body panels - front & rear trunks, engine bay, etc., are clearly new paint. All panel areas look BRAND NEW! No rust - anywhere. Well, 3 small rust spots, 2 bubbles under windshield trim, one rust spot behind driver door.........HUH?!?!?

WHAT? NEVER seen that in my life.

Then got the PO on the phone. Answered every one of my 100 questions MORE than satisfactorily.

The car had a "frame off" paint app. with proper prep of POR 15 in the original color by the owner before him. It was a clearly professional job performed by someone who really knew what they were doing. Every nook & cranny I could see is new paint. I just wish they had taped off some of the labels under the lids. I think this was done about 20 years ago.

The car has Dual Throat Webber carbs on each side - and modern Electronic Ignition. WHAT? #2.

PO said that he ECU died, and a replacement could not be found. The local Porsche dealer suggested new Webber's and new EI, and performed the work - it was clearly professionally done, well done. Carbs need to be rebuilt due to ethanol sitting in them for over 10 years - but I rebuild carbs with my eyes closed and one hand tied behind my back. Never done Webbers, but they can't be that bad.

Fuel tank was removed and professionally cleaned, waiting for POR 15 lining with comes with car. New fuel lines, pump, filters, pressure regulator come with car. All need to be installed. Piece of cake.

Interior appears flawless - just needs a good cleaning.

I do see paint flaking from rocker panels and under car members and panels. Not sure why, but will drill down on that once car is on my lift in a couple weeks.

New competition front brakes have been installed. Tires are very good, but obviously will all have to be replaced due to age.

Won't know more until I get the car here and go through it. I know there will be hidden issues. I've been around the block a long time.

Still think I almost stole the car, and can't wait to restore it.

Will tell you all more as I learn.......

GN

Posted by: green914 Sep 23 2017, 09:12 AM

Posted by: burton73 Sep 23 2017, 10:17 AM

Posted by: Drums66 Sep 23 2017, 02:02 PM

.....WELCOME to the WORLD!

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 24 2017, 09:20 PM

QUOTE(Drums66 @ Sep 23 2017, 02:02 PM)

.....WELCOME to the WORLD!

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 25 2017, 08:28 AM

914 Friends - thanks for all the warm welcomes.

QUESTION: Is there anywhere on this site where I can find/connect with other 914 owners in central Virginia?

TIA,

GN

'76 914 2.0
'11 Porsche Cayman S, PDK, Sport Chrono, Turbo II wheels in matching grey, loaded
'71 Triumph T100C Trophy 500, all original; '72 Triumph T120V Bonneville, mostly original; '74 Triumph T150V Trident, almost museum condition original (I ride all 3, last 2 fastest production bike '59-'69)
'97 Harley FXDWG Wide Glide; '09 Harley FLTSE3 CVO Road Glide
'96 F-150 4x4 w/factory Off-Road pkg.

Posted by: euro911 Sep 26 2017, 01:53 AM

One of the most important upgrades is ditching the plastic fuel lines that run through the center tunnel (if it hasn't already been done). There are a couple of sources for stainless steel fuel lines and they're sold by good standing members on this forum ... Robert (Rotary'14) is out here on the west coast, and Chris (Racer Chris) is on the east coast.

Looking forward to seeing your barn find

Harleys, Hondas and Yamahas in my stable too, but started off with a '38 Trophy 500 back in the early '70s ...

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 26 2017, 08:17 AM

Thanks Mark - haven't seen them yet, but pretty sure the new fuel lines the PO is providing are stainless - the only way to go for sure.

Can't get to car til next week as we are in Outer Banks, NC enjoying the winds, waves & rain from Maria....;-)

Would love to see what a '38 Trophy 500 looked like - guessing it was a hot bike then.....but are you sure it was a '38? Didn't think the Trophy 500 existed then.....pretty sure what you had was a Tiger 500........

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 26 2017, 01:53 AM)

One of the most important upgrades is ditching the plastic fuel lines that run through the center tunnel (if it hasn't already been done). There are a couple of sources for stainless steel fuel lines and they're sold by good standing members on this forum ... Robert (Rotary'14) is out here on the west coast, and Chris (Racer Chris) is on the east coast.

Looking forward to seeing your barn find

Harleys, Hondas and Yamahas in my stable too, but started off with a '38 Trophy 500 back in the early '70s ...

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 26 2017, 08:37 AM

My Trumpies - only this shows my '73 Trident, now have '74....

http://s890.photobucket.com/user/rahanes/media/null_zpsc7d15d62.jpg.html

'11 Cayman S -

http://s890.photobucket.com/user/rahanes/media/Vehicles/Cayman%20S/IMG_1719_zpsafc7185d.jpg.html

http://s890.photobucket.com/user/rahanes/media/Vehicles/Cayman%20S/null_zps7eabe226.jpg.html

Posted by: krazykonrad Sep 26 2017, 09:58 AM

Konrad

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 26 2017, 05:44 PM

PICS! PICS! PICS!

These pics were taken by the owner from whom I purchased the car on the day he parked it in my friends barn/Quonset Hut 12 years ago. Car sits today just a few feet ahead of where pics were taken.

As I thought proper, I posted them under Members 914 Pictures.....here.......

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=8&view=findpost&p=2531643

The paint is oxidized, but should look like this after a good but shallow polishing......

Whatchall think?

GN

Posted by: euro911 Sep 26 2017, 08:40 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 26 2017, 07:17 AM)

Posted by: anderssj Sep 26 2017, 08:52 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 25 2017, 10:28 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Sep 27 2017, 07:12 AM

Anderss - PM me your phone # & a convenient time for me to call.....

know of any others here in central VA? Have to be more....

GN

QUOTE(anderssj @ Sep 26 2017, 08:52 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 25 2017, 10:28 AM)

914 Friends - thanks for all the warm welcomes.

QUESTION: Is there anywhere on this site where I can find/connect with other 914 owners in central Virginia?

TIA,

GN

from Yorktown VA

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 1 2017, 07:31 PM

Ok friends - brought the '76 home today and am overall very pleased with my findings digging into the car.

#1 of course is how rust-free the car is - everywhere. Few rust bubbles under paint under window trim, one 3/4" spot where targa rail hits body.

Lots to like - great 190/R60 tires on all corners for one - old, but like new. I know, they need to be replaced.

Generally this car is in amazing condition and I think worth - once running and well-detailed professionally - at least $15k...if not more....

Now's when I begin to ask the technical questions. What is the best way to do that here? Of course I'll search for answers before posting. But do I Post a list on the main Garage forum? Or on a technical forum?

Simple one now is original fuel pump electric? I have a new electric one and pressure regulator for it. Where is the original located as it has been removed from this car?

And sources for parts? I know of 914rubber.com. Body parts? Like wheels for trunk springs?

TIA,

GN

Posted by: Freezin 914 Oct 1 2017, 07:40 PM

Posted by: Coondog Oct 1 2017, 08:16 PM

Your in the right spot, post all your questions here in the Garage....

P.S read everything in the 914 world thread > Lapuwali Classic Thread Forum
Also go to Pelican parts and read everything in there tech threads
and I can't forget Jeff Bowlsby 914 website, lots of great info.

Posted by: euro911 Oct 1 2017, 10:22 PM

The fuel pump on '75/'76 models is located in the lower driver's side area in the front trunk. Small metal cover plate down low, should be easy to see ... pump mounts behind it.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 2 2017, 07:32 PM

CoonDog - Thanks! Will do!

GN

QUOTE(Coondog @ Oct 1 2017, 08:16 PM)

Your in the right spot, post all your questions here in the Garage....

P.S read everything in the 914 world thread > Lapuwali Classic Thread Forum
Also go to Pelican parts and read everything in there tech threads
and I can't forget Jeff Bowlsby 914 website, lots of great info.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 2 2017, 07:36 PM

Mark -

Found it this afternoon while just getting more familiar with the car - thanks! Cept mine didn't have a plate covering it. Tank is out of car...

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 1 2017, 10:22 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 3 2017, 07:54 PM

Yes, the plate that holds the fuel pump is there - thought you meant a plate above it. Allows access from Frunk w/o removing tank....testing pump tomorrow - was filled with what looked like fresh gas! After 10 years sitting......wondering how that could be.....

Thanks Mark.

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Oct 2 2017, 07:36 PM)

Mark -

Found it this afternoon while just getting more familiar with the car - thanks! Cept mine didn't have a plate covering it. Tank is out of car...

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 1 2017, 10:22 PM)

The fuel pump on '75/'76 models is located in the lower driver's side area in the front trunk. Small metal cover plate down low, should be easy to see ... pump mounts behind it.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 3 2017, 08:08 PM

Friends -

The more I tear into this car, the more pleased and amazed I am. A rock-solid, almost mint condition, almost totally rust-free car. Oh, little spots of rust here and there, but cleaned out frunk and trunk and they look almost new. I cleaned them and hit them with some detailing polish and they look great, as do both frunk and trunk carpets. Open them and it looks almost like a new car!

Cleaned interior, superb condition. Did look under custom carpet cover over dash and it is cracked in 3 or 4 places - anywhere I can get a replacement dash?

Interior is otherwise immaculate - just missing floor carpets....side & console/center carpets are fine. No flaws in leather at all, nor on door panels. Seats work fine.

Only bad news is fuel gauge sending unit is missing - guess I'll have to get one from Pelican.

Oil looks fresh and is right where it should be - but will be changed of course with filter.

Need to de-rust fuel tank, line it with POR 15 kit that came with car, remove and rebuild Webber carbs. Air filters look like K&N but don't see K&N on them so they probably aren't. In very good condition.

Cannot wait to get this car running then have it detailed by pros.

Only bad news is I don't like the ugly black front bumper and the car does not have fog lights - I'm a firm believer for all the light you can get in front. Plates where fog lights go are rectangular, not round.

Did any '76s come with chrome bumpers? The chrome seems to add quite a lot to me over the all black plastic ones. But then, I'm over 50.......

Feedback on my questions is greatly appreciated.

GN

Posted by: euro911 Oct 3 2017, 09:03 PM

The '75/'76 model bumpers can be back-dated and a lot of folks have done it, but there's a little bit of work involved (cutting off the front trunk ledge and tabs on the sides of the front fenders is required) ... and the mod is not too easily reversed.


From what I've learned, to add the correct square fog lights, some special brackets are needed, as they weren't supplied from the factory with the non-fog light big bumpered cars. A search in the classifieds might yield results.


Good original uncracked dashes are hard to find, and real expensive if you do source one. Problem is, it will probably crack eventually, unless always garaged. 914Rubber sells a really nice repro dash, made from more time-forgiving materials ... and you're in luck, they are made for the 'late' cars ('73~'76).

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 4 2017, 12:23 AM

Thanks Mark - will check classifieds - no hurry on any of this.....probably will not make mods for the other bumpers....but will look for fog lights ...

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 3 2017, 09:03 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 5 2017, 06:58 AM

AH-HA!!!! Now I know why this car is so free of rust! It's a California car! Buena Park, CA exactly, and think it came here from there about 2000, and was driven only about 5k miles since then, and garaged most of that time......

A bump in value, no? Hot dog!

This car is a gift!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 7 2017, 11:22 PM

A detailer I've known since his birth (first laid eyes on my wife at his parents home in Dec. 1972) is one of the best on the East Coast and his cars have won 1st place at Amelia Concours a number of times - he details million-dollar cars of all kinds and turns out Porsche's are one of his specialties - I didn't know that until he paid a visit yesterday.

He knows 914's well and said mine is a really rare find and once detailed and all minor issues are addressed ought to be worth top dollar. He said if he tells his Porsche collector friends of my 914 some will be knocking my door down to buy my car - but to not let it go until I have everything near perfect.

One of his clients is one of the nation's top Porsche owners and expertsin the world, with a collection of Porsche's in the $20+ million range, who also has a collection of original parts for almost every Porsche made. He said his client is also one of the top experts on Porsche's in the world. He encouraged me to get all original parts to fix rubbers, etc. and anything not in near perfect condition from this collector - who he plans to introduce me to soon.

I can't wait to see what he will do with the car - he was explaining to me things he does that I had never heard of that he does.

Rebuilding carbs now, hope to have running in a week. Glad to also hear my detailer friend also knows the top Porsche mechanic in VA whom, he says, can tune my carbs to perfection - with his eyes closed.......

This is getting exciting.......

GN

Posted by: injunmort Oct 9 2017, 07:15 AM

your detailer friend should have suggested that you source the correct fuel injection for your car (d-jet) i belive, to maximize resale value.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 07:31 AM

Mort - excellent point - well taken.

Not sure just yet how far I want to go with this car - so many options. I already think I know where a whole system might be, but at what price? Not just the cost of the system, but of proper installation with all of the input sensors needed - I used to work on old Volvo EFI systems and knew them better than most Volvo dealer mechanics....

Car has BMW 320i front brake calipers......they would need to come off too.....

Right now I'm inclined to just get it all running & looking great and enjoying it - knowing that at any point in the future I could go whole hog on a resto........

I'm a handling nut, and since I was in my 20's the first mods I'd make to any car I had was the suspension. Finding it hard to believe a mid-engine Porsche did not come with sway bars, and wondering how it can handle decently without them.

But now fearful about installing them because of the mods required to do so - not a simple add-on. And what would that do to the value of the car for a resto?

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 9 2017, 07:15 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 07:35 AM

Got the 914 on the lift yesterday and again - I could not be more pleased with what I found.

While a lot of the undercoating is flaking off, all the metal underneath looks like new - amazing in a 41 year old car. Not a spot of rust anywhere.

Rear brake calipers seized and need to be rebuilt or replaced...not a big deal....

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 07:54 AM

Mort -

Big question would be would the increase in value exceed the cost?

Seems to me doubtful - but then I really don't know the value of nice 914's.......

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 9 2017, 07:15 AM)

Posted by: injunmort Oct 9 2017, 03:08 PM

i doubt the cost of getting fi and install would not be worth it. they run better and perform better, start easier warm quicker with the stock fi. they will run ok with carbs but it is a compromise without different cam and tuning. i think you could probably find complete d-jet for under $500.00. the more original the car, the better price it commands.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 03:49 PM

Mort -

Thanks for the input. A nationally known seller of classic cars is a friend of mine, his restorer partner a specialist in 914's (in GA) - he is telling me to leave the carbs in.

Gonna have to do a lot of research on this - I simply don't know enough.

I did discover that the 44 IDF kits are really for engines that have been fairly well modified and not stock engines - so that may be an issue in and of itself. This says a stock engine needs the 36 ICT carb kit, slightly modified takes the 40 IDF carb kit, and only "heavily" modified engines the 44 IDF kit. This engine is totally stock.

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/weber/weber-porsche.html

And I think National Carburetors would know their stuff.

So the car could be "over" carbureted with the 44's. The PO purchased the kit on his own, took it to the Porsche dealer and had them install it.

So I'm looking for advice and wisdom here....

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 9 2017, 03:08 PM)

Posted by: injunmort Oct 9 2017, 05:44 PM

bad advice on the carbs from mr. porsche in ga. if you are looking for max resale and originality, d-jet. did he put 44's on the car. if you are building a bigger diplacement type 4, yeah that setup can work really well. stock motor, way too much carb. i guess you can screw around with jetting and tuning to get them to work somewhat. the price of smaller carbs will exceed a used d-jet system. place a wtb in the classifieds. get the haynes manual and have at it. just like vintage english iron, the c6a points plate is now a boyer, no interest, the magdyno has been replaced with solid state internals, no interest. well setup lucas points work better than eletronic as does the a fully reconditioned mag. which wont fail on the road. fwiw. porsche used this system for a reason and the internals of the engine (cam) are designed for fi. not enough duration for carbs. can be addressed but alot more work than installing original fi.

Posted by: euro911 Oct 9 2017, 06:34 PM

Unfortunately, most of the time only one, or possibly a few people really know what is inside the engine cases in these old cars - until it's opened up for evaluation.

It could be totally stock, or it may have had a cam change prior to the carb install ... could have larger pistons & cylinders as well

If it's stock displacement, the dealer would have had to fiddle a lot with 44's to get the car running decent. Maybe they didn't get it right and possibly that's why it was parked years ago?

Need to check the size of the carb's internals ... knowing what jets and venturi size might shed some light on the subject, but again, it's hard to tell what mods have been done in the past without documentation.


I agree with 'Mort' ... the value will increase with the correct induction system. IIRC, only early European market cars were available with the ICT single choke carbs

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 06:58 PM

Mort -

Sold me. All makes perfect sense.

The car now has new EI - do I keep it with the D-Jet system?

Not following all you said after "just like vintage iron....not sure what you mean by "no interest".

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but not looking forward to learning the new D-Jet system. Have a million questions.

Will get the Haynes Manual.

Who knows? Maybe some one on this forum has a unit.....

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 9 2017, 05:44 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 07:03 PM

The PO (a former 911 race drive, even 24 hr. races) gave this car to his girlfriend - after less than 2 years, she gave it back. He then bought the (wrong) carb kit, took it to the local Porsche dealer, and had them install the carbs for $1700 in 2002 - I have the invoice. The dealer should have told him they were the wrong carbs - but the dealer here has a pretty bad reputation.......

BTW, I have my own shop, lift, etc. Do all but machinist work.....

GN

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Oct 9 2017, 06:58 PM)

Mort -

Sold me. All makes perfect sense.

The car now has new EI - do I keep it with the D-Jet system?

Not following all you said after "just like vintage iron....not sure what you mean by "no interest".

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but not looking forward to learning the new D-Jet system. Have a million questions.

Will get the Haynes Manual.

Who knows? Maybe some one on this forum has a unit.....

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 9 2017, 05:44 PM)

bad advice on the carbs from mr. porsche in ga. if you are looking for max resale and originality, d-jet. did he put 44's on the car. if you are building a bigger diplacement type 4, yeah that setup can work really well. stock motor, way too much carb. i guess you can screw around with jetting and tuning to get them to work somewhat. the price of smaller carbs will exceed a used d-jet system. place a wtb in the classifieds. get the haynes manual and have at it. just like vintage english iron, the c6a points plate is now a boyer, no interest, the magdyno has been replaced with solid state internals, no interest. well setup lucas points work better than eletronic as does the a fully reconditioned mag. which wont fail on the road. fwiw. porsche used this system for a reason and the internals of the engine (cam) are designed for fi. not enough duration for carbs. can be addressed but alot more work than installing original fi.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 07:15 PM

PO owner today told me engine was totally stock.

Main jets are 135's, which I think is standard for 44's, venturi's are 45mm - way too large.

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 9 2017, 06:34 PM)

Unfortunately, most of the time only one, or possibly a few people really know what is inside the engine cases in these old cars - until it's opened up for evaluation.

It could be totally stock, or it may have had a cam change prior to the carb install ... could have larger pistons & cylinders as well

If it's stock displacement, the dealer would have had to fiddle a lot with 44's to get the car running decent. Maybe they didn't get it right and possibly that's why it was parked years ago?

Need to check the size of the carb's internals ... knowing what jets and venturi size might shed some light on the subject, but again, it's hard to tell what mods have been done in the past without documentation.


I agree with 'Mort' ... the value will increase with the correct induction system. IIRC, only early European market cars were available with the ICT single choke carbs

Posted by: porschetub Oct 9 2017, 07:30 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 10 2017, 01:34 PM)

Unfortunately, most of the time only one, or possibly a few people really know what is inside the engine cases in these old cars - until it's opened up for evaluation.

It could be totally stock, or it may have had a cam change prior to the carb install ... could have larger pistons & cylinders as well

If it's stock displacement, the dealer would have had to fiddle a lot with 44's to get the car running decent. Maybe they didn't get it right and possibly that's why it was parked years ago?

Need to check the size of the carb's internals ... knowing what jets and venturi size might shed some light on the subject, but again, it's hard to tell what mods have been done in the past without documentation.


I agree with 'Mort' ... the value will increase with the correct induction system. IIRC, only early European market cars were available with the ICT single choke carbs

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 07:38 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 9 2017, 06:34 PM)

If it's stock displacement, the dealer would have had to fiddle a lot with 44's to get the car running decent. Maybe they didn't get it right and possibly that's why it was parked years ago?

Posted by: injunmort Oct 9 2017, 07:40 PM

when i say no interest, i mean theses improvements are rarely so. the efi was often replaced because it was a cheaper fix than paying porsche dealer shop time for a car that was on the downside of the curve, local indy vw shop could install carbs for less. cheap does not make it good. i bought a bsa dbd goldstar with a concentric carb on it. the idiot i bought it from insisted it was an improvement. there is a reason a gp carb is $1000 plus and a concentric is $150.00. the gp was made for performance and is infinitely adjustable. the concentric is made of potmetal with pressed in jets.

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 08:03 PM

Totally understand. Dealer (Weldon Early?) in Harrisonburg, VA sold my '72 Triumph Bonnie originally and I have a great pic of him somewhere (can't find it) next to his BSA Goldstar that he still has on his showroom floor! People want to put Mikuni's on old Triumphs, and they never work as well as the original Amal's.

So you put a gp on yours, right?

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 9 2017, 07:40 PM)

Posted by: euro911 Oct 9 2017, 08:04 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Oct 9 2017, 06:38 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 9 2017, 08:10 PM

Mark -

You are worth your weight in gold.

Well, maybe silver, oz. for oz......

:-)

GN

Posted by: injunmort Oct 9 2017, 08:26 PM

correct

Posted by: lvnzdrm Oct 10 2017, 06:52 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 27 2017, 05:12 AM)

Anderss - PM me your phone # & a convenient time for me to call.....

know of any others here in central VA? Have to be more....

GN

QUOTE(anderssj @ Sep 26 2017, 08:52 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 25 2017, 10:28 AM)

914 Friends - thanks for all the warm welcomes.

QUESTION: Is there anywhere on this site where I can find/connect with other 914 owners in central Virginia?

TIA,

GN

from Yorktown VA

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 12 2017, 02:41 PM

Can anyone tell me what these are & where they go? Base paint same red as body, but painted over with black. Hard rubber. Can't find anywhere on car that they would go, looks like bumper part.



one more coming....

GN

Posted by: BeatNavy Oct 12 2017, 02:43 PM

Those are blocks that support the fuel tank in the fuel tank recess. They just "sit" in there and the tank sits on top of them (and is also has a retaining strap).

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 12 2017, 02:43 PM

Posted by: arne Oct 12 2017, 02:43 PM

Gas tank supports.

Posted by: anderssj Oct 12 2017, 02:45 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Oct 12 2017, 04:41 PM)

Can anyone tell me what these are & where they go? Base paint same red as body, but painted over with black. Hard rubber. Can't find anywhere on car that they would go, looks like bumper part.



one more coming....

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 12 2017, 02:46 PM

Thanks Rob & Arne!

I would have NEVER guessed that. Tank not in car when I got it.

Gotta get than Haynes manual asap.....strap and felt supports are fine.

GN

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 12 2017, 02:43 PM)

Posted by: BillC Oct 13 2017, 07:06 AM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Oct 9 2017, 08:58 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 13 2017, 03:18 PM

Bill -

Wow - thanks. Plan is to first see how car runs on Weber 44's. If it runs well with them, I'll leave them on for now but still purchase the system from Ken so I can switch anytime I want.

It does look VERY simple as far as EFI systems go....even simpler that what was on a '72 Volvo if I remember correctly. No Mass Airflow sensor.

You are about 2 1/2 hours away - depending on I-95 traffic! so it could be 4 hours. I had an office on Route 50 just west of 495 years ago and could make it there in 2 hours - but traffic has since increased a lot.

One guy told me with my electrical background and experience with EFI he thought I could put the system in in 3 hours. If so, that would be good news.

GN

QUOTE(BillC @ Oct 13 2017, 07:06 AM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Oct 9 2017, 08:58 PM)

The car now has new EI - do I keep it with the D-Jet system?

If you're not too far from Silver Spring, MD, I can help you with the D-Jet system. I've gotten familiar with the system over the last couple of years, and it's pretty simple (and primitive) as EFI systems go. Most of the parts can be tested fairly easily, and a surprising number of parts are still available for it (either OEM new, reproduction or replacement components).

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 19 2017, 07:37 PM

Ok Friends - 1st stage detailing just finished - good news/bad news - but great pics - see here if interested....

A great find for $3k? Wow. I'm amazed, as was my detailer who specializes in Porsches - mostly high end ones - but who has seen and done a lot of 914's - he says this is one of the cleanest he's ever seen that is not a full restoration.......bumpers coming in 2nd stage


See here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=8&view=findpost&p=2539593

Posted by: injunmort Oct 19 2017, 08:53 PM

looks awesome, wish mine looked that good. how does it run?

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 20 2017, 06:14 AM

I noted earlier in the thread that as I am almost totally tied up with a major project it will be awhile before I can finish the carbs. I've just been hitting the right one now and then as I have a few free minutes. It will be a month or more before I have it running, time permitting.

Detailing could be done as someone else who did it here at my house. Normally I do mechanicals first and worry about looks last, but when my detailer saw the car he wanted to jump on it asap and I said "Have at it..."

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 19 2017, 08:53 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 22 2019, 08:06 PM

Greetings from the past my 914 friends. Been 18 months, but I'm finally in a position to jump into getting the 914 running as other projects are out of the way and it soon will be warm enough to work in my garage again.

My plan is to first get the engine running with the rebuilt Webers - again, my close friend in whose garage it sat for 12 years assured me the car was running perfectly when parked in his barn - he and the owner had been out for a good drive and my friend said it ran great.

Had the tank professionally restored with lifetime lining warranty. Fuel injection pump is correct for carbs. Need to rebuild 2nd carb & install them, soak the cylinders with some Marvel Mystery oil for a few days, put in the fuel tank assembly and get the engine running.

Lots of broken things to fix after that: rebuild rear calipers - no call back from PMB Performance after leaving a message earlier in the week. Both door handles broken, don't work. Need front left marker light. Lots of little stuff.

After having the car detailed, hail damage that was not visible before became apparent - a cosmetic issue I'll deal with last after car is running well and on the road.

I'll be needing the 914 brain trust to help me through all this uncharted territory - glad you all are here.

GN

Posted by: mepstein Mar 22 2019, 08:20 PM

I think PMB was at a show. They are a small shop but the best in the business.

Good luck with the car and welcome back to World.

Posted by: Bulldog9 Mar 23 2019, 08:12 PM

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it (havent read through all the pages) but Dorkiphus.net is a Maryland/Virginia area based forum, and another great community of P cars & BMW.

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 26 2019, 10:32 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 22 2019, 08:20 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 26 2019, 10:33 AM

QUOTE(Bulldog9 @ Mar 23 2019, 08:12 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 26 2019, 05:47 PM

QUOTE(injunmort @ Oct 19 2017, 08:53 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 26 2019, 06:05 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 26 2017, 01:53 AM)

One of the most important upgrades is ditching the plastic fuel lines that run through the center tunnel (if it hasn't already been done). There are a couple of sources for stainless steel fuel lines and they're sold by good standing members on this forum ... Robert (Rotary'14) is out here on the west coast, and Chris (Racer Chris) is on the east coast.

Looking forward to seeing your barn find

Harleys, Hondas and Yamahas in my stable too, but started off with a '38 Trophy 500 back in the early '70s ...

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 27 2019, 03:16 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 22 2019, 08:20 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Mar 29 2019, 08:08 PM

Working on rebuilding right carb - lot more gummed up, lot more work than left carb.

I was told early on by several that the Weber 44 carbs were too big for the 2.0 engine unless the engine had been modified internally - it has not been modified at all.

While having worked with carbs since I was 15 in 1960, I have rebuilt all kinds of carbs in my life - but Weber's are a whole new world to me. So, I bought this great book:



In this book, a chart indicates that indeed dual IDF 44's are indeed specified for this engine with 36mm venturi's - which mine have, and with the 36mm venturi's call for main jets of .155 to .160. The main jets in my carbs are .135's, which would indicate to me that there is no way these carbs are presently "too big" for the engine - with the .135 main jets.

This is great news for me.

Additionally, the experts at PMB strongly advised me to keep the Weber's on the car and to not re-install the original fuel injection - as a major 914 restorer they said too many parts cannot be replaced anymore, and they advise against it for that reason.

Seems to me someone here is an expert on Weber carbs here - can anyone remind me of who that is? Would love some pointers on initial settings for the carbs - the book has a few on initial tuning of the mixture control screws, and there may be more I haven't read yet. But it would be good to have a resource here who is an expert on these carbs.

TIA,

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Apr 16 2019, 06:39 PM

Ok, carbs are mounted - waiting on fuel. So I'm now in the frunk - and need some tips. I'm ready to put the tank in as well as fuel filter, pump, etc.

Long ago I posted pics of the big big rubber bumpers that the tank fits in - see my post #53 - can anyone send me a pic of how they mount? Can't find any anywhere. Tank came out of car, all dis-assembled. I assume they go on the bottom rim...but where?

2nd question: Guy who did my tank resto took off the fittings from the bottom of the tank & they are gone. What size are the fittings? Do I have to get them from Porsche? Or will Pelican have them?

TIA,

GN

Posted by: bbrock Apr 17 2019, 08:16 AM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Apr 16 2019, 06:54 PM)

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Apr 16 2019, 09:12 AM)

44's will work fine the only thing you'll lose is a tad of throttle response which with a type 4 engine will be pretty much unnoticeable.

Chi-town -

As I'm a 914 novice/ignoramus - what is a "type 4" engine?

As I've never driven any 914 in my life, I can't see how I'd notice and almost unnoticeable slow throttle response! Heck, with only 87hp, I wouldn't think it had any throttle response at all!

Question: Original Owner's Manual says engine is 84hp. Elsewhere I've read 100. Which is true? Will the Weber 44's help any?

TIA,

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Apr 17 2019, 03:33 PM

Brent - thanks for the info!

So, if my 2.0 is w/o cat & air pump, with dual 44's, any chance it's putting out 100hp?

GN

QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 17 2019, 08:16 AM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Apr 16 2019, 06:54 PM)

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Apr 16 2019, 09:12 AM)

44's will work fine the only thing you'll lose is a tad of throttle response which with a type 4 engine will be pretty much unnoticeable.

Chi-town -

As I'm a 914 novice/ignoramus - what is a "type 4" engine?

As I've never driven any 914 in my life, I can't see how I'd notice and almost unnoticeable slow throttle response! Heck, with only 87hp, I wouldn't think it had any throttle response at all!

Question: Original Owner's Manual says engine is 84hp. Elsewhere I've read 100. Which is true? Will the Weber 44's help any?

TIA,

GN

Saw your questions on the other thread and thought I'd answer them here.

Type 4 is the designation of the VW engine used in 914s and VW 411/412 models and later buses. It's also sometimes called the "bus engine" or rarely the "411 engine." The last two are not entirely accurate applied to 914 2L engines because the version of 2L in 914s was unique for our cars.

There were at least 3 different horsepower outputs for 2.0L 914s. 73-74 models for the US market had 7.6:1 compression ration and made 91hp, while cars for the European market had 8.0:1 compression and made 100 hp. The catalytic converter and other emissions controls reduced power for 75-76 model year cars to 88hp.

Posted by: bbrock Apr 17 2019, 05:24 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Apr 17 2019, 03:33 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Apr 17 2019, 07:04 PM

Thanks, Brent. Yeah, it a WAG at this point.

If I keep the car, I'll do a top-end job with a little bore & flat-topped pistons....maybe more......

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 18 2019, 04:43 PM

Good News. BAD NEWS.

Fuel tank & lines completed, tested, started engine today - 1st time in 13 years. Good news is - it started, it runs, no smoke, revs fine once above 2 grand. No unusual sounds coming from the engine. All that is good.

BAD NEWS. It took pouring fuel down carb barrels to get engine to start. It runs terribly, like it's on 2 cylinders. All new Denso iridium plugs. Dist. cap, rotor, plug wires look not that old. Have new ones ready to install.

Engine won't idle below 1,500 rpm, runs very rough, continues to miss at all RPM.

Engine will not start w/o fuel down carb barrels. It did a few times, but then would not.

Other details: drove car up our 1/2 mile road, hard to keep running, but I can tell from that little drive 3/4 mile drive with a poor running engine that I'm going to love driving this car if I can get it running well.

I wish I thought the problem is ignition. But I'm strongly inclined initially to think the problems are in the carburetors - especially the right one which was really gummed up badly. Did a complete rebuild on both carbs, and while I'm very experienced at rebuilding carbs, I've never done Weber's before - and boy - are they different.

So first is to eliminate ignition as the main problem - compression test - then on to the carbs.

Other good news: all new rebuilt calipers on rear from PMB Performance, new rotors & pads from AutoAtlanta.

Not thinking that getting this engine to run well is going to be easy or simple.....

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 18 2019, 05:07 PM

4,000 miles ago Porsche dealer did compression test: 105, 105, 90, 100, prior to doing a valve adjustment.

Would not expect much difference now.

Posted by: Dion Jun 18 2019, 07:55 PM

I’m by no means an engine guru. Aside from the bad carb you suspect, is the timing
within spec. Maybe that can help with the idle and erratic running through the rev range. Someone with greater experience will chime in I’m sure.
Good luck!

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 18 2019, 08:07 PM

QUOTE(Dion @ Jun 18 2019, 07:55 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 19 2019, 08:29 PM

Is there a Weber guru who can help me with my carbs?

Engine won't run unless idle speed screw is turned in so far that the idle mixture screws are not in effect - won't idle below about 1800/2000 rpm.

Followed all procedures in Tomlinson's "Weber Tech Manual" but nothing works.

Ignition seems fine.

TIA,

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 20 2019, 03:41 PM

Found this great site and will be going through this procedure with care.....and will report on the results.......

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf_adjustment_controls.htm

GN

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jun 19 2019, 08:29 PM)

Posted by: bbrock Jun 20 2019, 05:10 PM

Take a look at this one too:
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-carburetors-jetting-102/

It was pointed out to me on another thread and full of good info.

Posted by: Aviator 32 Jun 20 2019, 09:55 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 25 2017, 10:28 AM)

Posted by: BeatNavy Jun 21 2019, 05:33 AM

May want to start a new thread separate from this one. Introduce yourself and tell us more about you and your car so we can help. Pics are always good!

Good to have more people from VA here.

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 21 2019, 08:24 PM

Welcome to 914world! Great folk here, lotsa help - almost anything you could want to know.

I'm between Richmond and you, so we must get together.

Just like BeatNavy said, start a new thread and introduce yourself - that's what I did here almost 2 years ago - see my first post.......

GN

QUOTE(Aviator 32 @ Jun 20 2019, 09:55 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Sep 25 2017, 10:28 AM)

914 Friends - thanks for all the warm welcomes.

QUESTION: Is there anywhere on this site where I can find/connect with other 914 owners in central Virginia?

TIA,

GN

'76 914 2.0
'11 Porsche Cayman S, PDK, Sport Chrono, Turbo II wheels in matching grey, loaded
'71 Triumph T100C Trophy 500, all original; '72 Triumph T120V Bonneville, mostly original; '74 Triumph T150V Trident, almost museum condition original (I ride all 3, last 2 fastest production bike '59-'69)
'97 Harley FXDWG Wide Glide; '09 Harley FLTSE3 CVO Road Glide
'96 F-150 4x4 w/factory Off-Road pkg.

This is my first post on this site so I may be doing it wrong but just wanted to respond that i’m An old 914 guy who has drifted away over the past 20 years. Now would like to get my old ‘74 2.0 running again. I live in Charlottesville and would enjoy connecting with 914 people again.

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 21 2019, 08:30 PM

Thanks BB -

Today I found only 1 of my accelerator pump jets is working, and that one not well. All mixture screw passages are clear.

I've decided to do another rebuild on the carbs, this time carefully checking each and every circuit for proper flow before putting them back on the car. Too many things are not working right. I'm learning more and more on how the Weber's are designed and work, and my engine just isn't going to run properly until I do.

The good news is the engine seems to run fine and sounds good mechanically - no smoke, actually sounds pretty good above 3k rpm.

So, I've got a lot of work to do. Good part is the 2nd time you do something, it takes less than half the time as you know the route.

As far as re-jetting, not even thinking about that presently:

1. Porsche dealer installed the carbs 1,500 miles ago and certified in writing that the car was running perfectly at that time.

2. My good friend - a great guy, who passed away in his sleep on April 27th at 79 (and no known health issues) assured me that when the 914 (owned by another friend of his who used to race 911's) was parked in his new barn, it was running perfectly - and he was in the right seat having just taken a ride in it.

3. Current jetting is totally supported as being correct in Tomlinson's book on Weber Carbs on VW and Porsche engines.

Thus, I'm pretty sure I do not have a jetting issue. But I will read the link you sent! Thanks!

GN

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jun 20 2019, 05:10 PM)

Posted by: bbrock Jun 21 2019, 11:30 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jun 21 2019, 08:30 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 22 2019, 05:28 AM

Brent -

Wow - thanks for the additional info - will now get to the article sooner rather than later!

Pretty sure my problem with the jets is the acc. pump valve at the bottom of the fuel bowl - carbs sat with old gas in them for 12 years before I opened them up. Left one wasn't too bad - right one was a nightmare....not the worst I've ever seen (that was in a 1972 Honda CB350), but in that direction. Most jets and circuits clogged in right carb.

The pump jets and passageways to the pump were clear in both carbs, and rebuild kit included new pump stuff - but not the valves.

This time I will bench test all circuits before re-installing the carbs.........

GN

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jun 21 2019, 11:30 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jun 21 2019, 08:30 PM)

Thus, I'm pretty sure I do not have a jetting issue. But I will read the link you sent! Thanks!

GN

I think it will be worth while to read the link and I think the title is a little misleading as it covers more than just jetting, including those accelerator jets. I'm in a similar spot in that I'm learning how the Webers work and trying to prepare for tuning. I do need to rejet, but the reason I passed on that link is because I thought it was particularly clear in explaining when the various circuits kick in and how to dial them in. This is after reading Tomlinsons book a few times but for some reason, the aircooled.net article and the others linked on that page clicked with me. The Redline one you found was also good.

I'll be following your progress carefully as you are ahead of me on dialing in your engine and I'm sure I will learn many useful things.

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 22 2019, 05:33 AM

Friends -

On a completely different subject, for one of my next tasks/TTD on restoring my '76 Teener - anyone know of a "How To..." video on how to remove the front bumper? Need to R&R the right mount as PO hit something and mount is pushed back about 1".......

TIA,

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jun 30 2019, 07:31 PM

Aviator 32 -

PM me your email address and phone number and let's get together - I live between Richmond & Charlottesville......

GN

[/quote]

This is my first post on this site so I may be doing it wrong but just wanted to respond that i’m An old 914 guy who has drifted away over the past 20 years. Now would like to get my old ‘74 2.0 running again. I live in Charlottesville and would enjoy connecting with 914 people again.
[/quote]

Posted by: wndsrfr Jul 1 2019, 04:22 AM

Just four bolts...access from inside the wheel well way up front... mine are Allen heads... big maybe 8mm tool....

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 27 2019, 06:46 PM

QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Jul 1 2019, 04:22 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 27 2019, 06:55 PM

HALLELUJAH!

After a 2nd, very meticulous rebuild of the carbs, I found many details I had missed in my hasty first rebuild, and this time took meticulous care to do it right.

Old saying: "There is always time to do it over, but there is never time to do it right!" Boy am I guilty! MY BAD!

This time I finished last night and told my wife I was 99.5% sure that the engine would start and run well - without any priming.

I was so sure this morning, that I insisted that she have the honors, and put her in the driver's seat while I made sure the choke ("starter valve") on the Weber's were working.

SURE ENOUGH! Engine started easily, and even idled smoothly! THIS IS HUGE!

Engine was running so well I had to take the car up and down our 1/2 mile private road twice - car ran wonderful!

Yes - I have yet to do fine tuning on the carbs, but the great news is from here that is a minor detail.

Now that I know the car is mechanically sound, I'll be getting it registered with plates next week, and get this car on the road! I can't wait!!! It's been almost 2 years since I bought the car, and only now is it ready for the road. I've just had too much other stuff to do or it's just been too hot to work on the car.

The Bob Tomlinson Weber Tech Manual and some stuff on the web others have sent me here have been priceless help.

ONWARD!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 28 2019, 02:41 PM

I'd love to post a short mp4 recording of the sound of the engine at fast idle, but the site will not allow me to attach that kind of file?

Any suggestions?

TIA,

GN

Posted by: bbrock Jul 28 2019, 05:08 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jul 28 2019, 02:41 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 28 2019, 06:48 PM

Brent -

Thanks man! YouTube's I know how to post, no problem there.....just did MP4 when my wife started the car yesterday morning.

Want to fine tune the carbs a bit, then I'll do a video.

I'm very surprised at how nice this old car sounds - having a hard time believing the exhaust is stock from the sound - but 90% sure it is all stock including the California catalytic converter that I'll remove when I have time......

GN

QUOTE(bbrock @ Jul 28 2019, 05:08 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jul 28 2019, 02:41 PM)

I'd love to post a short mp4 recording of the sound of the engine at fast idle, but the site will not allow me to attach that kind of file?

Any suggestions?

TIA,

GN

Most people post the vid on youtube and then follow this FAQ to embed the vid in your thread post http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=97052

Let's here that engine!

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 29 2019, 07:22 PM

The 914 hit the road legally today! Put about 45 miles on her, surprised at the handling on a car with no anti-sway bars......some first-drive points:

Engine running rough, like 1 cylinder missing. But not totally - just like it's at 1/2 power of the others.

Still did 75 on the interstate.

Seems there are some weak parts in front end suspension.......

Downshifting from 4th to 3rd is a challenge.....4th to 2nd nigh impossible......

Seems like she's firing on 3 cylinders though so I've got my work cut out for me - is it carb or ignition? Right now I'm inclined to think carb.......

So here she is idling very rough - will work on fine tuning carbs in next few days.....any input/feedback is welcome......


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPK-iB5RJQo


GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 29 2019, 07:35 PM

some pics....left left marker lens in frunk......she's dirty, will wash & polish soon....engine issues first.....("go" before "show")









GN

Posted by: euro911 Jul 29 2019, 08:29 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jul 29 2019, 06:22 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 30 2019, 06:18 AM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Jul 29 2019, 08:29 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Jul 29 2019, 06:22 PM)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPK-iB5RJQo

Have you determined which cylinder is 'missing' by pulling the sparky-plug wires?
Have you checked for even rate of air flow (air balance) on each carb throat with a UniSyn or other measuring device?
Have you checked/cleaned your idle jets?

If none of that fixes the issue, I'd go back to square one and verify/adjust the valve stem clearances - especially on the 'dead' cylinder. Perform the check/adjust when the motor is stone cold.

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 30 2019, 07:27 PM

Guys & Gals - ever felt like an idiot?

After hours checking and re-checking the carbs, not understanding where I failed in my meticulous rebuild of them - I see the spark plug wire on Cyl. #3 loose! Cannot believe how well a Type 4 runs on 3 cylinders!

And can't wait to drive it tomorrow and see what it's like with all 4 hitting!

Now idling fairly smoothly at about 1,000 rpm, and transitioning to open throttle wonderfully - at least in the garage......am I a happy Teener or what?

GN


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGwHtxqGs_Q

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 1 2019, 06:16 AM

Well, it idles well until the engine is hot, then not so good.

And while accelerator pumps and open throttle seem to work well, with partial throttle positions less than half-open (I'm guessing) there is stumbling, some coughing and an occasional back-fire.

Obviously more work to do.

Very pleased with the power of the 44's otherwise - even surprised.

Do not think the partial throttle issues are due to the size of the 44's: problems did not exist when Porsche dealer installed & tuned the carbs, and did not exist when my good friend (passed away 4/27 in his sleep at 79) rode in the car just before it was parked in his barn almost 14 years ago.

Changing oil & filter now to synthetic, then back to working on carbs....

GN

Posted by: Johny Blackstain Aug 1 2019, 07:16 AM

Where abouts are you at? I'm in the valley

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 1 2019, 07:46 AM

Johnny -

Goochland County west of Richmond........valley is very long! Where in the valley? Love to get together........love to see your 6......

Richard

Posted by: Johny Blackstain Aug 1 2019, 09:01 AM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 1 2019, 09:46 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 1 2019, 10:31 AM

QUOTE(Johny Blackstain @ Aug 1 2019, 09:01 AM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 1 2019, 09:46 AM)

Johnny -

Goochland County west of Richmond........valley is very long! Where in the valley? Love to get together........love to see your 6......

Richard

bottom of Shenandoah county, at most 2 hrs away

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 1 2019, 10:39 AM

If I can get the engine running well, maybe we could meet 1/2 way somewhere......like Waynesboro? about 1:15 from me........

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 1 2019, 10:31 AM)

QUOTE(Johny Blackstain @ Aug 1 2019, 09:01 AM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 1 2019, 09:46 AM)

Johnny -

Goochland County west of Richmond........valley is very long! Where in the valley? Love to get together........love to see your 6......

Richard

bottom of Shenandoah county, at most 2 hrs away

Good friend lives on the Shenadoah River just east of Front Royal......

GN

Posted by: euro911 Aug 1 2019, 01:50 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 1 2019, 05:16 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 1 2019, 03:30 PM

[/quote]

Is your ignition timing right on?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_timing/914_timing.htm
[/quote]

Mark -

I confess I have not checked for several reasons - was done not many miles ago by Porsche dealer, and car was running perfectly when parked 14 years ago.....

I will check if nothing else pans out, but performance does not seem to indicate timing is off to me. Idles well until hot, open throttle of 1/3 or more power comes on smooth and strong.

Thanks,

Richard

Posted by: Mikedrevguy Aug 1 2019, 07:38 PM

Beautiful car. You’re gonna have fun with this car.we are in our second. My wife’s was the first. A 76 2.0 that was upgraded to a 2270.
Car ran well enough as a 2.0 with the 44s and runs even better as a 2270.
What distributor are you running?
How much fuel run through? Did you clean the fuel system? New rubber fuel lines?
Amazing how the fuel line breaks down, flecks off and plugs idle jets.
I’d encourage you to get the synchrometer, timing light, dwell meter. Will help you in the short and long haul.
Our second is mine. A 74 1.8 FI. Wife told me to get it and stop trying to steal hers. Okay.
It, too, is destined for a 2270, with 44’s (likely) but that’s off a ways.
Good luck and have fun with it all.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 2 2019, 07:15 AM

QUOTE(Mikedrevguy @ Aug 1 2019, 07:38 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 2 2019, 01:00 PM

Hmmmmm.......interesting......running much better today for some reason......20 miles of mixed driving......idles usually around 1,100 - but, sometimes just dies.....?????

Big problem shifting from 3rd to 4th about half the time - want to go into 2nd, grinds the gears as the syncro can't handle the RPM.....gearshift just doesn't want to make that move from the 2/3 column to the 4/5 column......weird. Sometimes goes smoothly. Sometimes seems to refuse.......

A way to tighten the linkage?

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 2 2019, 07:22 PM

ok, my major issue now is not t he engine, but the shift linkage.

Fully 50% of the time, I cannot get from 3rd to 4th.....no matter how I am trying to get the shifter to the right from 3rd, it wants to go into 2nd - and this is really tough on the synchronizer - and probably how it was weakened. (no problem with synchronizer from 1st to 2nd).

It's like the horizontal part of the H pattern going right from 3rd does not exist, no matter how hard I try to find it.

Can the shift linkage bushings be replaced like on many vehicles? If so, is there a site like Pelican that has instructions for doing so?

TIA,

GN

Posted by: euro911 Aug 3 2019, 01:55 AM

Yes ... https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_shift_improve/914_shift_improve.htm

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 3 2019, 10:46 AM

Thanks Mark.......I knew it was there somewhere.......lots of the pics are missing/unavailable.....I'm a guy who needs pics.....even the parts blow-up of the shifter linkage is not available.....

I'll check with Pelican and see what's up.

Thanks again,

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 3 2019, 01:55 AM)

Posted by: euro911 Aug 3 2019, 11:36 AM

There's 4 shift rod bushing locations in a late car.

1. The firewall bushing (figure 2).

2. The coupler bushing (pair) just aft of the firewall (also shown in figure 2).

3. The rear shift console housing (on the transaxle) where the rod enters it (not shown, but easy to find).

4. The ball cup bushing where the rear rod 'socket' contacts the lever in shift console (figure 1).

The most difficult part of the job is while you're replacing the coupler bushings. The center 'pin' needs to be pressed out to remove the old bushings (or the remnants), and pressed back in after the new bushings are installed. The outer housing (fork) is structurally weak so one needs to be real careful not to bend or break it while pressing the pin out, or back in.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 3 2019, 06:44 PM

Mark -

Again, thank you so much. Plan to dig into the linkage next week. Want to go back to the Pelican site to see if I can find, and print out, a blow-up of all the linkage parts so I can get a better handle on how they all work.

On test run tonight, engine is running better than ever - really strong. NO WAY these IDF 44's are too big - they seem perfectly matched, and the car has more than twice the power that I expected.....will detail in another post.

Getting from 3rd to 4th is now impossible. I may have damaged something repeatedly trying to force the shifter to the right. With a double-clutch maneuver, I can get from 3rd to 5th - and then back to 4th or just stay in 5th.

Also having trouble getting the tranny in 1st gear when stopped. Linkage is horribly sloppy and loose.....not nice sitting on an uphill incline at a busy intersection stop sign with a guy in a big truck pulled up within inches of your butt -


GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 3 2019, 11:36 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 3 2019, 06:54 PM

My 914 has an MSD system - something I know nothing about, but understand is a very popular performance option today.

I stumbled across this:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_MSD_install/mult_MSD_install.htm

So I immediately went and re-gapped my platinum plugs for .050", and there was a big difference in engine smoothness and power.

Once I did that I re-adjusted the idle mixture screws and got a smoother idle.

Now I have new plug wires to install too.....if I can find where I put them.......

I am continuing to study and learn about MSD........was at the largest and best car show in Central VA today, and amazed at all the older cars that had MSD and how the owners swear by the performance gains.

Bad news is adjusting the Idle Mixture screw on Cyl.4 does nothing....makes no sense as I've verified that all the idle mixture passages are free and open, as is the idle jet. Can't figure that one out.

I'd say engine is now 80 - 90% of where it should be. Very happy about that.

The engine is now running better than ever, strongly and smoothly firing on all 4 cylinders under load, from about 2 grand and up. Pulls smoothly like a freight train above about 3,500 rpm. No missing, popping, back-firing at all.

More than anything I'm super-surprised - and super-happy - about the power this little Type 4 puts out......and could live with it long term.

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 5 2019, 04:03 PM

Well, well, well. No wonder!

HOW did this linkage shift at all?!?!?

Put the 914 on the lift, pulled the front boot at the firewall, and.......THERE ARE NO BUSHINGS AT ALL IN THE COUPLER!!!! Not only that, the firewall bushing is not in the firewall, but loose on the shift rod behind the firewall!

So apparently the bushings in the coupler were worn out, destroyed - and who knows what happened to them - no, no pieces laying in the boot. Maybe some bacteria ate them while in my friend's barn over the 12 years it was there.......

And apparently the firewall bushing was pushed out after being installed - as it cannot move once the rod is inside it - and how did any mechanic miss that when re-connecting the coupler???????

Well, the good news is this: the new bushings (on the way) should have this tranny shifting like new!

I can't wait!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 5 2019, 07:10 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 3 2019, 11:36 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 8 2019, 08:19 PM

Mark -

All back together, all tight, went very well, thanks to your pre-counsel.

VERY disappointed that the rear shaft bushing (#3 on your list) is not tight in the shaft port on the shift box, but has over 1/16" slop in it. Thought about removing it and wrapping it with enough electrical tape just to make it tight, but already had everything greased up and removing the good bushing risked damaging it, so I let it go. The bushing was tight around the shaft, but not in the hole.

Seems this particular bushing also might be one of the most critical ones for precise shifting. May go back to it someday in the future.

Any idea on why this bushing is so loose in its mounting hole?

As I noted on another thread, disappointed as well that I could not take the car out for a test drive tonight. Had soft brakes and was bleeding all calipers and discover a major leak in the front right outer caliper piston. Problem is the PO put in brake calipers from a BMW 320i - but I have no idea what year.

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 3 2019, 11:36 AM)

Posted by: euro911 Aug 9 2019, 12:56 AM

Glad to hear you were able to correct most of your shifting issues. I went with a CFR/Tangerine spherical firewall bushing, and bronze coupler and console bushings so I wouldn't ever need to replace them again ... but alas, I sold that car last year. I will be installing bronze bushings on my '71 when I get to that part of the build.

It's hard to say why your console bushing is sloppy without looking at it. It's possible that the bushing wore out and the hole was enlarged by the rod rubbing on it over time

You'll need to remove the rear ball-cup housing and the rod again, remove the console bushing and measure the diameter of the hole. Then someone with a known good console handy can also measure the diameter to determine if yours is out of spec and needs replacement. I'd be happy to do it, but my side-shift transaxles are 500 miles away at the moment.

If the enlarged hole is still perfectly round, you might be able to get away with machining a sleeve to take up the difference.

Posted by: stinkindiesel Aug 9 2019, 11:50 AM

I ordered rear bushings from several different sources, and they were all loose in the hole. My temporary fix was to massage JB Weld into the gaps and around the bushing.

The hole in the bracket looked clean and circular, so I have trouble seeing it getting bashed by the shift shaft, but it was clearly too large for the bushings.

Gary

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 9 2019, 05:22 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 9 2019, 12:56 AM)

Glad to hear you were able to correct most of your shifting issues. I went with a CFR/Tangerine spherical firewall bushing (Mark - think that's what I got from AA), and bronze coupler (next if I keep the car - and know how easy it is to replace the bushings and console bushings so I wouldn't ever need to replace them again ... but alas, I sold that car last year. I will be installing bronze bushings on my '71 when I get to that part of the build.

It's hard to say why your console bushing is sloppy without looking at it. It's possible that the bushing wore out and the hole was enlarged by the rod rubbing on it over time [/color]No - console bushing was not in bad shape, never any metal-to-metal contact. Problem is in the new bushing. I may shim it in future.

You'll need to remove the rear ball-cup housing and the rod again, remove the console bushing and measure the diameter of the hole. Then someone with a known good console handy can also measure the diameter to determine if yours is out of spec and needs replacement. I'd be happy to do it, but my side-shift transaxles are 500 miles away at the moment. Again, console hole is as original - perfect un-marred condition.

If the enlarged hole is still perfectly round, you might be able to get away with machining a sleeve to take up the difference.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 9 2019, 05:27 PM

Gary - very interesting. Have an idea for shimming it in the future - can do it while all parts are in place. Could only improve the tightness of the shifting, even if only to a minor degree.

Didn't mention it before, but also noticed the front rod was pretty loose in the new firewall bushing - guess that's normal too. It was a different material than all the other bushings, not white, but an orange and much softer material. Seems to me the material was too soft for the location and too loose as well....but what do I know? I'm an electrical engineer.....who should have been a mechanical engineer!

GN

QUOTE(stinkindiesel @ Aug 9 2019, 11:50 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 9 2019, 05:33 PM

Ok, discovered leaking piston O ring on front right caliper - which is from a BMW 320i (assuming PO would not lie to me about this).

Delighted to find out from Pelican that there are only 2 - 320i calipers - 2 piston ('79 - '83) & 4 piston (later) - mine are 2-piston, so I ordered a rebuild kit for both calipers.

Too bad PMB doesn't rebuild them - asked Eric but never heard back from him......

Anyone know if the original front 914 calipers were noted for being a weak design?

GN

Posted by: euro911 Aug 9 2019, 06:40 PM

As far as I know, Eric still 'restores' BMW calipers.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 9 2019, 07:58 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 9 2019, 06:40 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 10 2019, 09:02 PM

Ok, was able to take the 914 out for a good test of the shift linkage........wow! Not worried about the tiny slop in the rear console bushing. If anything, the linkage is TOO TIGHT.

All gear changes work great - except for one: the shift from 1st to 2nd, half the time, jumps from 1st to 4th. This never never never happened before the new bushings. 1st to 2nd was always quite certain and sure....it was 3rd to 4th that was the problem.

Well the 3rd to 4th is no longer a problem. But half the time, 1st to 2nd jumps to 4th. I have to be very careful and deliberate to hit the 2nd gate.

Apparently because of the new bushings, the spring (requiring forced R and 1st) now is 4x as strong - and in the shift from 1st forces the shifter to go over to the gate for 4th. I cannot let the spring "do its thing" because it seems to force the linkage too far.

Looking for input from those here who know this linkage and tranny better than I do - as it's all new to me. I know this car's linkage and tranny are not known for their positive attributes. But I don't see any adjustments that I can make to change this problem......

TIA,

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 10 2019, 09:04 PM

Hmmm.....rebuilt calipers for 1980 BMW 320i at Summitt Racing for $41.......

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-18fr131/applications/year/1980/make/bmw/model/320i

Can't pass that up - looks like the ones on my 914....

GN

Posted by: euro911 Aug 11 2019, 02:31 AM

Dialing in the shift rod is sometimes a time-consuming process. It's even worse on a tail-shifter arrangement.

The point of adjustment for a side-shifter is located under the shift lever in the cockpit. If you have a center console, you may want to to remove it, or at least the horizontal cover panel and any carpet covering the shift lever's base.

When you look at the rear of the lever assembly, you'll see a open slot, and below that, you'll see a clevis (19) at the very bottom of the lever where the front shift rod (30) inserts into it. It is a split clevis with a bolt (1) that cinches around the rod. Place the shift lever into the neutral position.

Take a silver Sharpie and mark both the linear and lateral positions on the clevis and the rod where it sits in the clevis. Next, reach down into the slot with the appropriate size socket (IIRC, a 13mm) and loosening the cinch bolt (1).




Now you'll be able to adjust the forward/rearward motion and the rotational movement of the clevis as needed. You'll need to keep the shift rod from rotating while moving the shift lever around, especially if the clevis is still holding the rod tight. A suggestion is to have a friend under the car to make sure the rod doesn't rotate (or move forward or rearward) while you're adjusting the shift lever's position.

If that's not an option, you can secure the rear of the rod with a pair of Vice Grips inside the rear access plate (located between the seats near the firewall). You will need to remove the center armrest box if so equipped) to find the plate.


Do not adjust the linear movement if you're not having difficulty going forward and rearward into the gears.

Make slight rotational adjustments either to the left or right and tighten the cinch bolt on the clevis, taking note of the alignment marks mentioned above. Test it out and see if it's now shifting better (or worse). If worse, loosen the cinch bolt again and readjust the shift lever in the other rotational direction and test again.

You'll probably have to play around with the adjustments for a while until you get it spot-on ... it's sort of a right of passage ...

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 11 2019, 08:07 PM

Mark -

Cannot thank you enough for the detailed description of how to "tune" the linkage.

Understand most of it, but not all. Looks like one of those "you have to do it to understand it" things.

Some responses in blue:

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 11 2019, 02:31 AM)

Dialing in the shift rod is sometimes a time-consuming process. It's even worse on a tail-shifter arrangement.

The point of adjustment for a side-shifter is located under the shift lever in the cockpit. If you have a center console, you may want to to remove it, or at least the horizontal cover panel and any carpet covering the shift lever's base. All is wide open now - time to do the job.

When you look at the rear of the lever assembly, you'll see a open slot, and below that, you'll see a clevis (19) at the very bottom of the lever where the front shift rod (30) inserts into it. It is a split clevis with a bolt (1) that cinches around the rod. Place the shift lever into the neutral position. Gotcha, loud & clear.

Take a silver Sharpie and mark both the linear and lateral positions on the clevis and the rod where it sits in the clevis. Next, reach down into the slot with the appropriate size socket (IIRC, a 13mm) and loosening the cinch bolt (1). Pretty sure I get it - i.e., mark the existing linear and lateral positions on the clevis. I assume I'll use those as reference points for adjustments......




Now you'll be able to adjust the forward/rearward motion and the rotational movement of the clevis as needed. You'll need to keep the shift rod from rotating while moving the shift lever around, especially if the clevis is still holding the rod tight. A suggestion is to have a friend under the car to make sure the rod doesn't rotate (or move forward or rearward) while you're adjusting the shift lever's position.

If that's not an option, you can secure the rear of the rod with a pair of Vice Grips inside the rear access plate (located between the seats near the firewall). You will need to remove the center armrest box if so equipped) to find the plate.Think I'll go with this option - rear access plate is still off, rod open for Vice Grips.


Do not adjust the linear movement if you're not having difficulty going forward and rearward into the gears.Gotcha. Having NO problem with forward and rearward movement at all. Very precise presently.

Make slight rotational adjustments either to the left or right and tighten the cinch bolt on the clevis, taking note of the alignment marks mentioned above. Test it out and see if it's now shifting better (or worse). If worse, loosen the cinch bolt again and readjust the shift lever in the other rotational direction and test again.Sounds like simple trial & error.

You'll probably have to play around with the adjustments for a while until you get it spot-on ... it's sort of a right of passage ...Understand. But seems to me all this may not be needed for this reason (check me on this): Having no problems at all on precise hitting of far left gears (R & 1st), and far right gears (4th & 5th) from any of the other gear positions. This would seem to indicate to me that the rod is properly aligned in the clevis.

The ONLY problem I'm having is in the center gates, and ONLY shifting from 1st to 2nd. All other shifts, up or down, or even skipping a gear (e.g., 4th to 2nd) are no problem. It SEEMS to me that unless I override the spring that throws the shift rod from left to right going from 1st to 2nd, the spring throws the shift rod too far to the right, sending it into 4th gear instead of 2nd. What further puzzles me is that while the bushings were bad or non-existent, the shift from 1st to 2nd was not a problem.

Doesn't this seem to indicate the clevis and rod are properly aligned?

PBPWM......(please be patient with me....)

I'm 74 and have been driving hot cars with all kinds of manual trannies since I was 15, as well as working on them. But I've never run into this particular issue.

GN

Posted by: anderssj Aug 12 2019, 10:41 AM

Richard,

My apologies--I thought I emailed a couple of links to 2 different sets of instructions on how adjust the shift linkage (one from Dr Evil and one from Chris up at Tangerine). I'm apparently having some email issues again....

Here are the links:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=188120

and

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=239745&hl=shifter++bungee

The second was posted by Clay Perrine--I couldn't find my link to Chris' procedure, but think it's similar.

Hope these help!

Steve A-

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 12 2019, 11:45 AM

Steve -

Thank you so much! Will read ASAP. I've been wondering if there is a way to adjust the tension on the spring - don't see one presently, but have not looked closely.

Looking forward to these articles!

Richard

QUOTE(anderssj @ Aug 12 2019, 10:41 AM)

Posted by: euro911 Aug 12 2019, 02:14 PM

Both Mike's and Clay's threads spell out good methods. I hadn't seen either one, nor Chris' method before. I know Chris sells a nice 'precise adjustment component/ on his site.

Looks like you have some other good options to try out. I've heard of some folks finding worn out springs in the shift lever assembly's base, but I haven't experienced that fault myself. I'm not even sure how to tell if they're worn

We're installing a THOMAS side-shift trans in our '71 and will be installing a Rennshift shift lever assembly that I got from Steve ( @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=822 ) a couple of years ago. Adjusting with the new shift lever will be new territory for me.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 12 2019, 06:37 PM

Thanks Steve -

More driving makes me think the problem has been with the ShiftER, not the shift linkage. Getting the feel so I'm hitting 2nd now 90% of the time....this helped from another shift linkage thread - a post by Dave Darling, "But there are many reasons that we tell people to momentarily pause in between gears when shifting a 914; allowing the lever to fall into the correct plane is only one of them."

The shift linkage is all VERY tight...like in a new vehicle.......

GN

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 12 2019, 11:45 AM)

Steve -

Thank you so much! Will read ASAP. I've been wondering if there is a way to adjust the tension on the spring - don't see one presently, but have not looked closely.

Looking forward to these articles!

Richard

QUOTE(anderssj @ Aug 12 2019, 10:41 AM)

Richard,

My apologies--I thought I emailed a couple of links to 2 different sets of instructions on how adjust the shift linkage (one from Dr Evil and one from Chris up at Tangerine). I'm apparently having some email issues again....

Here are the links:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=188120

and

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=239745&hl=shifter++bungee

The second was posted by Clay Perrine--I couldn't find my link to Chris' procedure, but think it's similar.

Hope these help!

Steve A-

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 12 2019, 06:41 PM

Next 914 challenge: alternator not charging.....should not be a problem diagnosing as I'm an electrical guy, and have some good threads on diagnosing whether it's the alternator, regulator, chassis ground, whatever.

My main question is: How do I access the alternator and check the belt tension? Seems pretty inaccessible to me......

GN

Posted by: euro911 Aug 12 2019, 07:31 PM

Diagnose the trouble: https://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914qa/914Q_electrical_alternator.htm


Don't forget to check the fuses on the engine compartment's relay board. I had an intermittent power outage that was caused by the 25A fuse that had two broken strips of the fuse near one end. The fuse looked good until I attempted to pull it out and the fusible material fell into two pieces. Apparently the two pieces were touching and intermittently, vibrating apart every now & then





This thread discusses replacing the belt, so it works for checking the belt's tension too. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=38596



Hopefully you find the problem lies with an external component, so you won't have to perform this major surgical procedure: http://www.914world.com/specs/alternator_replacement.php

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 12 2019, 07:57 PM

Mark -

Wow. Everything I needed - and more. Thank you.

See two places for fuses on the relay board - one has a blue fuse in it; the other is empty. What is the 2nd empty fuse holder for? Can't find anything that describes layout of relay board.

Thanks a million - for the hundredth time????

GN

Posted by: euro911 Aug 12 2019, 08:20 PM

The other fuse holder isn't used for anything. I keep a spare 25A fuse in it so I don't have to go searching if the main 25A power fuse ever goes out again

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 12 2019, 08:25 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 12 2019, 08:20 PM)

The other fuse holder isn't used for anything. I keep a spare 25A fuse in it so I don't have to go searching if the main 25A power fuse ever goes out again

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 13 2019, 07:54 PM

Drove about 25 miles on back roads/twisties - gotta replace those flat-spotted tires that sat in a barn unmoved for 12 years - ordered new tires tonight.....

Tightened alternator belt, just a bit loose, not too tight. Gen light out now, but just getting 12.2 v, so doing the D+ to DF jump tomorrow with VR out to see what that does.

Pulled front right caliper that was intermittently leaking - bad news - cannot be rebuilt (got kits from Pelican) - a noticeable crack in the outer piston well. Now, where to find decent 1980 BMW 320i front right caliper???? Eric at PMB says to avoid the cheap $40 Cardone/ACDelco ones as the Chinese seals are no good......

Oh - washed the 914 too.....

Have now put 200 miles on the car since I got it running.

Posted by: euro911 Aug 13 2019, 08:54 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 13 2019, 06:54 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 14 2019, 05:55 AM

Mark -

Wow. How do I ever thank you?

Looking at parts at Summit Racing and Rock Auto it seems that 2 different calipers come up.....but the both are 2-piston with same size pistons. Can't see how it would make a difference. The re-manufacturers like Cardone are all out of cores to rebuild.

Never seen a cracked piston well before - right at the outer lip. Thinking it had to be a factory defect in the casting. Brake would work fine - except when you most needed it - a hard stop. Jam the pedal hard and the fluid would flow under the inner seal and out the crack - and the pedal would go to the floor! But it would pump back up quickly if you didn't hit it so hard. Needless to say, I only drove it in the country with no cars around at low speeds......

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 13 2019, 08:54 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 13 2019, 06:54 PM)

... Now, where to find decent 1980 BMW 320i front right caliper????

I'd call around to a couple of local bone yards to see if they have any 1978-1983 BMW E21/320i cars on the lot. Those years all used the same part# calipers ... then rebuild it.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 14 2019, 07:32 AM

This is the caliper I have:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=23089&cc=1011519&jsn=898

Cardone 19225,

Summit Racing: ADO-18FR131

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 06:57 AM

With 4 working brakes and all new tires, took my "Arrest Me" red baby for a long drive last night and got her good and hot. 70 mph on interstate.

Bad news 1: Significant loss of power when hot - not good. Assuming loss of compression. Assuming she needs an engine rebuild - strange at only 60k miles. But I was prepared for one when I got the car. Tho hoping not necessary.

Bad news 2: Engine oil temp got really high - less than 1/4" from red line, and wasn't driving that hard. Anyone tell me where the gauge normally sets when ambient is 87 deg.?

Good news: Love the way the car rides on new rubber. But that's true of any car. Handling a bit better - old tires had 95% of their tread, just old, hard, and flat-spotted after sitting for 12 years. Wonderful on interstate.

Like-New front bumper & rubber & fog lights coming from DrPhil will make her really sharp for the 9/14 PCA event.

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 07:01 AM

TO MODERATOR:

Since it's been almost 2 years since I joined this great forum, can you change the title of my thread to "Virginia Teener" or something like that?

THANKS!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 07:29 AM

Mark -

Thanks for the offer - forgot to post here that Eric at PMB had one and sent it to me....think I posted it on the "What did you do...." thread.

All is well and I have 4 excellent working brakes!

GN

QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 13 2019, 08:54 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 13 2019, 06:54 PM)

... Now, where to find decent 1980 BMW 320i front right caliper????

I'd call around to a couple of local bone yards to see if they have any 1978-1983 BMW E21/320i cars on the lot. Those years all used the same part# calipers ... then rebuild it.

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 07:32 AM

Area PCA 9/14 Event - looking forward to it!

Hope some other forum members can make it too - anderssj is coming.

https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/fsr-fall-fun-run-euroclassics-porsche-pca-first-settlers-920339

GN

Posted by: bbrock Aug 18 2019, 09:21 AM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 18 2019, 07:01 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 11:15 AM

Brent -

Thanks! Well, since I'm technically NOT a newbie any more, the title is no longer accurate or true.

And I'm a stickler for both.

GN

[/quote]

What? You don't want to be a perpetual nube? You can change the title yourself and as often as you like by going back to your first post on the thread and selecting edit, and then full edit. In full edit mode, you can edit both the title and description of the thread.
[/quote]

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 11:18 AM

NOTE TO THREAD FOLLOWERS:

Title changed for accuracy!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 18 2019, 08:13 PM

Appears loss of power - and likely overheating - was due to loss of spark plug wire on cylinder 2 - for the 2nd time. Just came off. New wires going on this week.

You'd think I would have noticed missing, but no, engine was still surprisingly smooth. And still ran 70+......

Yes - I feel like an idiot.

GN

Posted by: JeffBowlsby Aug 18 2019, 08:23 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 12 2019, 06:57 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 19 2019, 07:19 AM

Thanks Jeff!

[/quote]

The other fuse is for the optional rear window defroster..
[/quote]

Posted by: Gatornapper Aug 19 2019, 04:25 PM

Ok, friends and family. It's time you all find out where Gatornapper came from. NOT my own invention! Major US newspaper gave me and a friend the name after we "borrowed" a full-grown 6' alligator.

No - not in Florida or Louisiana. NOT in the South. Indiana. 1965. I was 20. And no, I wasn't totally sober. Miracle we did not get hurt. See my notes after the articles:



Half the details are flat wrong. Only I and one other guy were involved, and he is deceased, so I'm the only living Gator Napper left.

I wasn't drunk, but my buddy was...I was 'designated driver'. But I wasn't sober either.

After 2 prank attempts, we released Alberta in a pond in the middle of a thick forest, thinking we'd never hear of her again.

What we did not know is that a creek went from that pond into the largest lake in Indiana, 5 x 2 miles. And when the lake folk began to see a full-grown alligator in their resort place, they got just a little upset for some reason.

And called for the cops to find out who put the alligator in the lake, and to of course, hang them. We were facing 6 years in jail and $6,000.00 in fines. That's a lot for 1965.

The judge tore into us making me think he was going to give us LIFE. But he then showed mercy.......my first - of many - taste of the mercy of God......

And BTW, rather than Gator, I prefer "Napper" - cause we "Napped" the Gator....but my name is Richard. But whatever works for you is cool too.

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 14 2021, 07:30 PM

Well, it's been almost 2 years since I posted to this thread, and my sweet 914 has come a long, long way. So I thought I'd try to do an update. Golly - where to start?

Good news on the car after being seen by a number of 914 experts (Scott Burnett for one) is that the car is amazingly rust free, maybe 8 small spots and 2 that could be deep.

Car is amazingly tight in every way, friend with fully restored '72 (both a Porsche & 914 expert) says mine is much tighter than his, and my new shift linkage is tighter than his.

Found on car when I got it: New 911 Master Cylinder, BMW 320i front brake calipers, new rack & pinion steering. MSD ignition. Had 60,600 original miles with documentation to prove it.

I added: PMB rear brake calipers & new rotors, 050 distributor, new plugs & wires, .060 idle jets in Webber 44's, powder-coated engine tins, almost all new body/door seals.

Dropped engine in May of last year for thorough cleaning and media-blasting, new Tangerine T'stat, new cooling flaps & assembly, cleaning oil cooler and cylinder fins, new alternator, new cables, replaced relay board, cleaned & repainted engine bay to original Malaga Red, new engine seals, bundled engine bay wiring.

Put in new LED headlights from 914rubber, wired original Fog Lights for DRL's and put LED's in them; All exterior lighting is now LED except for front side marker lights. Interior light on seat is LED. Planning on 2w LED indicator lights in dash - colored. The LED Fog Light DRL's turn that ugly black front bumper into a thing of beauty. IMHO.

Car has never looked better: 3 steps of buffering badly oxidized paint with commercial buffer with help of pro, coat of Meguires Carnuba Wax. For latest pics, see here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=159774&view=findpost&p=2928481

Car has never run better: Weber's dialed in another notch last Saturday. Delighted at the power this little 2.0 has. 3 hour ride in foothills of mountains Saturday produced 27mpg to boot.

Car has never handled better: did not know torsion bars were way out of adjustment, loose; now handling it tighter and more precise than ever.

Tomorrow, Lord willing, I'll get a new set of tires on my like-new just powder-coated Mahle's and pull off the beautiful black EMPI's that came on the car, but have the wrong offset for a 914.

Done? Never. Still plan to get car back to its original Malaga Red - among other things. Hopefully next time it won't be 2 years between updates.

Oh - yes. I'm in love. Like the rest of you - with my sweet 914. What a car!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 17 2021, 06:35 AM

For anyone running Dual IDF-44's on a 2.0, here is the jetting I used to get my 44's dialed-in and running great on another thread:


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=317626&view=findpost&p=2931348

Highly recommend Bob Tomlinson's book, especially on how to Troubleshoot problems and Dial-in your idle mixture screws on pp. 49 - 52.

HTH

GN

Posted by: Krieger Jul 17 2021, 08:37 AM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 19 2019, 03:25 PM)

Ok, friends and family. It's time you all find out where Gatornapper came from. NOT my own invention! Major US newspaper gave me and a friend the name after we "borrowed" a full-grown 6' alligator.

No - not in Florida or Louisiana. NOT in the South. Indiana. 1965. I was 20. And no, I wasn't totally sober. Miracle we did not get hurt. See my notes after the articles:



Half the details are flat wrong. Only I and one other guy were involved, and he is deceased, so I'm the only living Gator Napper left.

I wasn't drunk, but my buddy was...I was 'designated driver'. But I wasn't sober either.

After 2 prank attempts, we released Alberta in a pond in the middle of a thick forest, thinking we'd never hear of her again.

What we did not know is that a creek went from that pond into the largest lake in Indiana, 5 x 2 miles. And when the lake folk began to see a full-grown alligator in their resort place, they got just a little upset for some reason.

And called for the cops to find out who put the alligator in the lake, and to of course, hang them. We were facing 6 years in jail and $6,000.00 in fines. That's a lot for 1965.

The judge tore into us making me think he was going to give us LIFE. But he then showed mercy.......my first - of many - taste of the mercy of God......

And BTW, rather than Gator, I prefer "Napper" - cause we "Napped" the Gator....but my name is Richard. But whatever works for you is cool too.

GN

Posted by: Jett Jul 17 2021, 10:57 AM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 9 2019, 04:33 PM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Jul 26 2021, 07:50 PM

930cabman asked on the IDF 44 thread if I was finished and had another project ahead. Not hardly.

There is still still TONS of stuff to do to my 914.

There are about a dozen small rust spots that need to be fixed, most where upper body meets lower body. Scotty Burnett looked at the car and said it indeed was a rare one for lack of rust, but some of the small rust spots could be deep. Won't know until we dig into them.

Trunk and frunk lids are both hail damaged and the paint is badly oxidized - beyond recovery. What's weird is the tops of the four quarter panels are all fine. Not sure what to do with the lids - open to suggestions. Might find & paint ones from another car.

Rocker panels bent and need attention.

Dash is badly cracked in many places. Anderssj gave me a nice dash with no cracks except one that has been nicely repaired in the center of the crown above the tach - hardly noticeable & hidden by steering wheel. Someday that has to go in, and that is a multi-day job.

I want to take the car back to its original Malaga Red. The Scarlett Red paint job is a top-notch CA job, very thick. It needs to be removed. Want to get down at least to the original paint. No idea how/when that will happen, especially due to lack of funds.

Problem is while I'm pretty good at wrenching, I am hopeless at body work. And I cannot afford to pay an expert to do an expert job. And I hate body work - love wrenching.

A number of little things to address, though everything works.

So I'll be piddling on the car for some time.

But in the meantime, I'll just enjoy driving it. Over 2,000 miles in the last 6 weeks!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Nov 30 2022, 07:40 PM

I cannot believe it's been over 3 year since I posted on this thread! MY BAD for not logging 3 years of history like others do - just too many other things going on I guess.

I know I posted somewhere, but first is the new look of my Mahle's......about 3 years ago.....







More coming......

Posted by: Gatornapper Nov 30 2022, 07:52 PM

Put about 6,000 miles on her and started having engine trouble a year ago.

Decided to do top-end rebuild of engine with new heads, P's & C's from George, and a tranny rebuild so I dropped the engine in August....



My best Porsche friend Rick Berkowitz helped (72 - 914, 79 - 911 SC, 85 - 944)

Posted by: Gatornapper Nov 30 2022, 08:01 PM

And decided while I was rebuilding the engine, it would be a good time to take the Scarlet Red beauty to my restoration painter (who gave me a slot in his schedule a year ago) to have a 1st class repaint & body resto to like new in her original Malaga Red. His slot opened up before I even got started on the engine.

WHY? Because I was working on the 924 Turbo to sell it......and find a nice 944!

Restoration shop just got started on her this week! Oh - one detail: the sails will not be black vinyl, but Malaga Red. Can't wait to see how that looks......





So now I'll start a new thread on my selling my 924 Turbo that I did a 90% restore on - and what the good Lord dropped out of heaven on me!

GN

Posted by: Gatornapper Apr 25 2023, 06:06 AM

Well well! My body shop restoration painter tells me that my 914 is ready except for installing the "Porsche" rocker panels I got from Auto Atlanta and I should pick it up this Thursday.



Can't wait. Photos will be forthcoming when I get the car. Will look like new.

Sad part is top-end rebuild on engine is mid-way, but good news is tranny rebuild is complete. So the car will have to sit on my lift with my sweet 944 S (my daily driver) underneath it so both cars - and my 928 - can be out of the weather. Like in the 3rd pic on Post #165 above..........

Stand by for a beautiful Malaga Red 914.....

GN

Posted by: flipb Apr 25 2023, 07:06 AM

Did you refinish the Mahles? They look great in the photos from November. Mine look pretty tired by comparison.

Posted by: Gatornapper Apr 25 2023, 05:43 PM

QUOTE(flipb @ Apr 25 2023, 07:06 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper May 3 2023, 03:29 PM

FINALLY! BACK TO HER ORIGINAL MALAGA RED! Love this color so much more!

All areas done superbly by top area restoration shop including trunk, frunk, engine bay. Vinyl on sails deleted. Shop even did lots of restoration work on bumpers making them look new as well. Posting a ton of pics here......

Posted by: Gatornapper May 3 2023, 03:38 PM

GN

Posted by: BillJ May 3 2023, 03:43 PM

QUOTE(Krieger @ Jul 17 2021, 10:37 AM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Aug 19 2019, 03:25 PM)

Ok, friends and family. It's time you all find out where Gatornapper came from. NOT my own invention! Major US newspaper gave me and a friend the name after we "borrowed" a full-grown 6' alligator.

No - not in Florida or Louisiana. NOT in the South. Indiana. 1965. I was 20. And no, I wasn't totally sober. Miracle we did not get hurt. See my notes after the articles:



Half the details are flat wrong. Only I and one other guy were involved, and he is deceased, so I'm the only living Gator Napper left.

I wasn't drunk, but my buddy was...I was 'designated driver'. But I wasn't sober either.

After 2 prank attempts, we released Alberta in a pond in the middle of a thick forest, thinking we'd never hear of her again.

What we did not know is that a creek went from that pond into the largest lake in Indiana, 5 x 2 miles. And when the lake folk began to see a full-grown alligator in their resort place, they got just a little upset for some reason.

And called for the cops to find out who put the alligator in the lake, and to of course, hang them. We were facing 6 years in jail and $6,000.00 in fines. That's a lot for 1965.

The judge tore into us making me think he was going to give us LIFE. But he then showed mercy.......my first - of many - taste of the mercy of God......

And BTW, rather than Gator, I prefer "Napper" - cause we "Napped" the Gator....but my name is Richard. But whatever works for you is cool too.

GN

holy crap! What an adventure! Glad you did not get 6 years.

Posted by: Gatornapper May 3 2023, 06:01 PM

Yea, lost one in the Glades I guess, probably to another gator. If it had had 4 legs, we mighta been hurt......

Lotsa errors/untruths in articles - as normal with media even 58 years ago. One article said Alberta was from Florida, the other from Louisiana....only the Lord knows...

Only Chris Wooling and I were involved, and he's passed so I am the only living Gatornapper on the planet.....my claim to fame........

Of course this is my biker name - many in the Harley world only know me as Gatornapper......too many shorten it to "Gator"........



GN


holy crap! What an adventure! Glad you did not get 6 years.
[/quote]
Three legged gator????
[/quote]

Posted by: r_towle May 4 2023, 08:59 AM

Well,
Great story and I hope your new engine build goes smoothly.

Rich

Posted by: Gatornapper May 4 2023, 07:14 PM

Thanks Rich - I hope so too.

Kinda down now - found out docs can do nothing to help my brother in south FLA who is dying from liver failure - cirrhosis. He's in and out mentally due to high ammonia in blood - hepatic encephaly. I'll never see him again.....a good guy.

GN

QUOTE(r_towle @ May 4 2023, 08:59 AM)

Posted by: Cairo94507 May 7 2023, 05:27 PM

GN - Sorry to hear about your brother; I hope he passes peacefully in his sleep.

Posted by: 87m491 May 8 2023, 01:30 PM

I replaced the transmission mounts on my 74. Of course on butting up the second one I noticed that the mount had an indexing pin on them to positively locate them to together with the metal "hat/saddle"


So of course it comes out as does the first to make sure they were indexed correctly. That said the two nuts for each anchor bolt of the mount also have a shoulder that sits in the holed to center the bolts and keep it from shifting. 2 of mine were on wrong so I'm guessing my mounts were old replacements.

Posted by: Gatornapper May 15 2023, 08:53 AM

"914 - 2.0" Decal Location

Went through this before and thought I posted about this when I put my first decal on a couple years ago - but if so I cannot find it.

As car has just been repainted, I'm putting on a new "914 - 2.0" sticker that the '75/'76 914's had. But as I'm a detail freak - I'd like some precise details about the location of the decal.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Precise measurements to .1mm would be great!

I think I remember that vertically the decal centerline is aligned with the centerline of the trunk button.

If so, all I need is horizontal dimensions to taillight on right, trunk button on left.

TIA!

GN

Posted by: 930cabman May 16 2023, 01:31 PM

Thanks for giving up the napper!!

may your brother go peacefully

with all those machines in the stable, how can you decide which one to pilot?

Posted by: flipb May 16 2023, 01:46 PM

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ May 15 2023, 09:53 AM)

Posted by: Gatornapper Oct 7 2023, 05:57 PM

Thanks. My younger brother passed peacefully at 9pm on June 16th. I miss him, can't believe he's gone.

The 944 S is my daily driver. Try to split driving evenly between the other 3, but it's interesting how each day seems to select the car by conditions & circumstances. Longer drives or bad weather require the Cayman.

Think I should start a new thread on Phase II of my 914 rebuild.

GN

QUOTE(930cabman @ May 16 2023, 01:31 PM)