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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Riveted Flares
Posted by: mmascari Oct 1 2017, 07:38 PM
At some point I would like to install steel flares on my car but due to the cost I am thinking about buying a set of fiberglass flares and rivet them on. I assume the cut you make to the stock fender for the fiberglass flares would be the same as the steel flares. Would I just purchase the fiberglass flares, for example, from Auto Atlanta or is there a kit you can purchase that includes flares with the rivets? Here is an example I found on this site.
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Posted by: r_towle Oct 1 2017, 07:44 PM
The cut is NOT the same.
Steel flares get butt welded to the fender, so the cut diameter is larger than fiberglass.
Using fiberglass flares you overlap the flares and bond them to the fender.
Posted by: mmascari Oct 1 2017, 07:50 PM
The cut is NOT the same.
Steel flares get butt welded to the fender, so the cut diameter is larger than fiberglass.
Using fiberglass flares you overlap the flares and bond them to the fender.
That makes sense. I suppose if they get riveted there has to be some material on the other side to rivet the flare to.
Posted by: r_towle Oct 1 2017, 07:51 PM
Rivets are sometimes used to clamp them while the glue dries.
Posted by: SirAndy Oct 1 2017, 07:55 PM
If you want to rivet without any bonding, use large rivets to spread the load, otherwise the FG can crack. IMHO, they also do look better.
Posted by: JamesM Oct 2 2017, 01:30 AM
I bought my first 914 with riveted on flares. Almost 20 years later and the same rivets are holding the fenders on. I guess if it aint broke...
I believe the "kit" used to install them this way is available at home depot 
If you want to see some really cool (in my opinion) non permanent fender attachment check out Elliot's car.
Also ask him to show you his watch. 
Posted by: bulitt Oct 2 2017, 07:03 AM
Or you can use bolts, washers, nuts. Handy to remove them to access suspension parts.
FG flares are a lot of work. They will need to be trimmed and shaped to be symmetrical. Then if you intend to leave the rivets or bolts exposed they need to be spaced equally IMHO, or they look goofy...
Posted by: ConeDodger Oct 2 2017, 09:47 AM
If you want to rivet without any bonding, use large rivets to spread the load, otherwise the FG can crack. IMHO, they also do look better.
Mine are welded of course, but I agree. The riveted or bolted FG flares look gnarly cool!
Posted by: JP3 Oct 2 2017, 12:28 PM
I used stainless security bolts to put mine on.
Posted by: tygaboy Oct 2 2017, 12:31 PM
So who makes the best quality FG flares?
I thought QRS used to offer them but they aren't listed on their site.
Posted by: JP3 Oct 2 2017, 12:34 PM
I purchased mine from Patrick Motorsports. I thought the quality was pretty good. Just a little work on them for a nice fit. I used the fender welting on mine so I did not need a perfect fit.
Posted by: tygaboy Oct 2 2017, 12:41 PM
I purchased mine from Patrick Motorsports. I thought the quality was pretty good. Just a little work on them for a nice fit. I used the fender welting on mine so I did not need a perfect fit.
Awesome, thanks!
Posted by: davehg Oct 2 2017, 01:52 PM
My Outlaw car came with the riveted flares, but I've gone back and forth about whether I like them over steel flares. I think it fits the attitude of the car, but if I had the chance to decide, I might opt for the steel flares. I might try to paint the rivets black and see if they blend better.
Posted by: Mueller Oct 2 2017, 03:46 PM
Anyone rivet metal flares on?
For a true outlaw look I think it would be neat to use metal flares welded on however use a TIG and leave the welds with no grinding or filler so it would look like stitches
Posted by: Larmo63 Oct 2 2017, 04:09 PM
Metal or rivet on fiberglass, 914 flares look awful (IMHO) with the warts tacked back on afterwards.
Terrible. 
Posted by: boxstr Oct 2 2017, 08:07 PM
These are Porsche factory steel flares riveted on, and they look really good.
Craig at CAMP
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Posted by: davehg Oct 2 2017, 09:52 PM
These are Porsche factory steel flares riveted on, and they look really good.
Craig at CAMP
It’s settled / I’m painting my rivets black. Looks great.
Posted by: Vacca Rabite Oct 3 2017, 08:51 AM
I agree with the folks that said the rivets with welting looks awesome.
If it were me, I'd use dzus fasteners so you could remove the flares for service, etc. One of those tings that once you use them once, its hard to imagine using anything else.
Zach
Posted by: DM_2000 Oct 3 2017, 12:07 PM
Removable flares really don't make the easier any easier to work on however, they do reduce bodywork required and can be installed without repainting the car. This last bit is a huge advantage. I can't tell in the pics but some fender welting / beading would help seal the flare so water does not splash through the seam.
Posted by: ConeDodger Oct 3 2017, 02:27 PM
Removable flares really don't make the easier any easier to work on however, they do reduce bodywork required and can be installed without repainting the car. This last bit is a huge advantage. I can't tell in the pics but some fender welting / beading would help seal the flare so water does not splash through the seam.
All told, you can have upwards of $4000 into welded on steel so rivit or bonded fiberglass starts to look really good as an alternative...
Posted by: mepstein Oct 3 2017, 02:39 PM
Removable flares really don't make the easier any easier to work on however, they do reduce bodywork required and can be installed without repainting the car. This last bit is a huge advantage. I can't tell in the pics but some fender welting / beading would help seal the flare so water does not splash through the seam.
All told, you can have upwards of $4000 into welded on steel so rivit or bonded fiberglass starts to look really good as an alternative...
It’s an alternative but a nicely done steel flare is a beautiful thing.
Posted by: ConeDodger Oct 3 2017, 02:53 PM
Removable flares really don't make the easier any easier to work on however, they do reduce bodywork required and can be installed without repainting the car. This last bit is a huge advantage. I can't tell in the pics but some fender welting / beading would help seal the flare so water does not splash through the seam.
All told, you can have upwards of $4000 into welded on steel so rivit or bonded fiberglass starts to look really good as an alternative...
It’s an alternative but a nicely done steel flare is a beautiful thing.
Oh, I totally agree! Thank you McMark!
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Posted by: Front yard mechanic Oct 3 2017, 03:04 PM
More and more cars being flaired make the narrow cars worth more 
Posted by: DM_2000 Oct 3 2017, 05:04 PM
The issue with fiberglass to steel is differing expansion rates that will eventually lead to cracking.
Have a look at my post 14 for bonding steel flares.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=317169
Posted by: mepstein Oct 3 2017, 05:35 PM
The issue with bonding on steel flares is that they are made to be welded. When a part is made to be bonded, the area that gets the glue is shaped differently. You can’t just lay the flare on the fender and apply glue. It would take a redesign of the flare and a way to flange the cut fender area. Same issues on the longitudinal reinforcements. It needs to be designed for adhesive from the ground up.
Posted by: Larmo63 Oct 3 2017, 07:44 PM
In a couple more years, every 914 will be flared.
Posted by: Mike Bellis Oct 3 2017, 08:48 PM
You need tri fold split rivets. You also need some rubber fender welting. The heads of my rivets are 3/8"
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