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Posted by: rgolia Oct 23 2017, 09:51 AM

So last night the hose from the engine to the oil pressure sender blew out and sent oil everywhere. fortunately I was about 1 mile from home. Lot of oil everywhere, hopefully I did not fry the engine. of course to figure that out I need to get a new sender in place. I would like to have a sender that works the green idiot light and can also work a gauge and of course I would rather not have a hose after this incident. Any suggestions on the sender type and where to get it and what to expect when i try to restart the car...after adding oil of course!

Posted by: Keith914 Oct 23 2017, 10:06 AM

Buy a 928 SS braided brake line (Bruce Stone's recommendations) which screws into the case. Buy a VDO twin post oil pressure sender that screws into the female end of the brake line, and fabricate a bracket to mount it to the engine so that it is grounded (electrically). Connect your existing oil pressure light switch wire to to the corresponding post on the sender, and run a new line to a matching VDO oil pressure gauge and to the other post on the sender.

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 23 2017, 10:40 AM

To clarify...if it was the hose that failed, why do you need a new sender? They're not integral, correct?

And just to check if the engine is basically OK, just re-install the stock oil pressure light switch (or get one from the local auto parts store) and run a temporary jumper wire to your existing sender's wire. Dash light goes out, you have at least ~7-8 psi.

That'll help you sleep better while you get the permanent repair parts.

Posted by: cuddyk Oct 23 2017, 10:41 AM

Check this out. Great kit.

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/vw-audi-oil-pressure-relocation-kit/

Posted by: era vulgaris Oct 24 2017, 08:14 AM

Were you using a rubber grease gun hose?
I had this happen to me on my old car. The rubber hose melted from the engine heat after a long 3 hour drive and separated from the metal collar. Oil went everywhere. Grease gun hoses, while able to more than withstand the pressure, can't withstand the heat.
You need a hose that's rated for the heat, like in the kit CuddyK posted.
I ended up picking up a braided hose from Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing. This was a couple years ago, and at the time he said he was going to make them available on the website, but I don't see them on there.
Once you get the proper hose, there's nothing to worry about.

Posted by: bdstone914 Oct 24 2017, 08:20 AM

Look up a rear brake hose for a 1982 928. I got one at O Reilly ( ATE) for about $20.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Oct 24 2017, 12:15 PM

About the dual senders.
I don't like them. They trip the oil Idiot light much earlier then the stock sender. Some people don't mind that, but on some engines you can get the oil light on at hot idle but the oil pressure is still within spec. Disconcerting.

I ran my hose to a T fitting, and have the pressure sender on one side and the stock idiot light sender on the other.

Zach

Posted by: rgolia Oct 24 2017, 02:33 PM

Thanks all. I spoke with Chris at Tangerine and he is going to hook me up with the hose. Chris also suggested that I pull the oil strainer to see if I killed the engine. While I rather not do this for fear of bad news, I will do so and post pictures. Fingers crossed. If good I will follow zachs advice on the tee and two separate senders. If bad, my baby will be on the way to Chris's shop.

Posted by: Mark Henry Oct 24 2017, 02:56 PM

nothing beats the factory oil light switch. To me if you're really worried about oil pressure a big red light hooked to the idiot light is you best bet.

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 24 2017, 02:59 PM

Ditto. I ended up removing the center console with its voltmeter and oil temperature and pressure gauges (with VDO dual sender that always turned on the light at hot idle), going back to the simple stock GEN and oil pressure lights. Haven't had a worry about oil pressure since...

Posted by: cuddyk Oct 24 2017, 04:15 PM

The kit I linked above has 3 available ports so you can install an electrical pressure sender AND keep the factory one for the idiot light. And still have a spare port for a mechanical gauge if you want.

Posted by: DM_2000 Oct 24 2017, 04:43 PM

How much oil is left in the motor?

Posted by: rgolia Oct 26 2017, 10:03 AM

Took the strainer out....no metal frags to speak of...some small copper specks but smaller than the screen, so maybe good news. There was about 1/2 quart of oil plus the filter, so probably bad news. Plan is to try the restart tomorrow or Saturday. Any advice or thoughts on how to proceed or what to expect are appreciated.

Posted by: '73-914kid Oct 26 2017, 11:32 AM

I would cut open your oil filter that was on the car. That's usually a consistent indicator of whether or not it smeared the bearings.

Fill it back up, drive it, and see if your oil pressure is good. If you damaged the bearings, you will likely see diminished oil pressure when the engine is hot as the journal-to-bearing clearance would have increased.

It might be worth it to cut open the new filter you reinstall after a hundred miles or so of driving if all else seems well.

Posted by: DM_2000 Oct 26 2017, 05:22 PM

Motor is probably OK unless it was in poor shape pre oil loss.

I've rebuilt / repaired countless engines across many makes and have seen the results of oil loss, having something left in the pan is a plus.

Posted by: Porschef Oct 26 2017, 06:45 PM

Ralph, hope all is ok, were you using a grease gun hose?

I'm not gonna take any chances, the kit Ian posted looks to be a good insurance policy...

Posted by: rgolia Oct 27 2017, 09:57 AM

Not sure of the origin of the hose, most likely came with the sender and gauge when I bought it 35 plus years ago. It was on my list of things to hit this winter...

I will know by noon tomorrow ....stay tuned

Posted by: rgolia Oct 31 2017, 09:46 AM

Got oil back in it and fired it up. After a short but painful squeal it fired up and ran. I let it idle for about 5 mins. Didn't sound bad, but there was what sounded like valve clatter on a beetle, although less noisy than a beetle. Will do a real road test run after I change the oil again this weekend. I am not confident that it will pass the test. I afraid that I am gonna need to start listing engine rebuild options. Parameters for the rebuild:

- It is a numbers matching car so keeping the case is a plus
- I currently have Weber 44s
- I would like more power but want to have heat exchangers
- I do not want the car to be loud, I want to keep my exhaust as is (I have a borla unit)
- I do not want to spend more on the engine than the car is worth (thats the wife talking)

Posted by: GregAmy Oct 31 2017, 10:16 AM

- Put suspect numbers-matching engine in the basement.

- Install good used engine into car (re-installing with not-numbers-matching Webers...natch...)

- Enjoy car.

Posted by: McMark Oct 31 2017, 10:23 AM

Smart idea, if you're not ready to pull the trigger on a full build.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 31 2017, 11:03 AM

Adjust the valves before you do your road test. If it's making a Bug-like clatter, at least check the valve gaps. Re-check after your road test, see if anything has changed. If it has, then your heads need attention ASAP.

--DD

Posted by: NeunEinVier Oct 31 2017, 11:04 AM

Considering what's included, the price is really reasonable too.

Posted by: DM_2000 Oct 31 2017, 05:00 PM

That's usually a very bad sign, at most an engine with wear will rattle until oil pressure is built up. Did the noise occur during cranking or immediately after the engine fired?

Are you sure the alternator belt is tight? A lose belt will sequel then suddenly get quiet as the battery recharges.



If the engine is louder than before, there are worn parts. I realize that is is possible to be more critical assessing noises after a problem occurs so that than into account.

On most any engine, connecting rod bearings are the first to fail. A check for this is to warm up the engine then from idle, quickly snap the throttle to 50% and release, you might see 2500 - 3000 RPM in this test. If there is a sharp increase in noise, there is a loose connecting rod bearing. High revs / 100% throttle isn't needed.



Sounds like a stockish rebuild would fit your parameters.

Posted by: rgolia Nov 6 2017, 03:03 PM

Fired it up this weekend and let it run for 15-20 mins. Oil pressure at around 25psi at idle and 42 psi at 2500 rpm after running for 20 mins. Still sounds like something is not right.

BTW no frags found in the oil filter.

Gonna change the oil again and then give it a test ride. If it sh-ts the bed then time to do a 2056 build? Got Chris at Tangerine on stand-by.

Posted by: rgolia Nov 13 2017, 10:59 AM

Well gave it a good warm up and then hit the road. Up and down the street...did not want to have to tow if too far. Makes a clanking noise on take off....runs better at high rpm. still has power, but definitely not a keeper.......something is effed up This baby needs to visit someone with a clue and that is not me.

Posted by: McMark Nov 13 2017, 12:53 PM

A quick refresh isn't outside your skill set. Teardown, inspect and post pictures. If you decide to hand off the project at some point, so be it, but I'd encourage you to jump in, if you've got the time/interest.

Posted by: pete000 Nov 13 2017, 01:05 PM

Here is the kit I got from a Miata MX5 performance site. Nice SS hose and fittings.Clamp included.


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Posted by: malcolm2 Nov 13 2017, 01:14 PM

zackly the issue that I have..... oil temp gets over 200 and I stop at a stop light....950 rpm idle and the GREEN light is on. gauge is still reading 10 psi.

I have purchased, but not yet installed the 42 draft design rig so I can use the OEM OP sender to the light.

BTW I bought and have been using for 40K miles, a paint ball gun hose. Used a brass Tee from Home Depot and a gauge from Harbor Freight so I have an in-bay OP gauge. All were are super cheap and the hoses come in varying lengths. So far so good.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 13 2017, 02:45 PM

Hopefully you have added a ground wire to the outside of the sender. The insulation on the clamp will otherwise interfere with the ground path for the sender, and you're either going to get no readings, or inconsistent ones.

--DD

Posted by: pete000 Nov 13 2017, 04:21 PM

Works fine the hose is metal so the ground is there.