Happy Friday Everyone,
I have found that my battery is not getting a charge from the alternator. I tightened the belt (which was loose) and that didn't help. I thought before buying a new alternator (and various other parts to go with it) that I would swap out the VR, as new ones were only around $20. Well, it turn out (of course) that I need an expensive, Bosche VR for over $200.
So now I am back to just buying the alternator, but before I do that; do you all know if there is any way to test the VR before spending the $ on the new alternator?
Thanks as always for the help!
It has a whole different way of plugging in. There is a "block" on the relay pad so that only a certain style pushes into the receptacle.
When my VR went bad, the casing would get extra hot to the touch.
Ansbacher
The connectors are the same for both the -4 and the -6. The solid state regulators work well, but the old ones can be tested and actually adjusted. You’ll need to find an old school electrical rebuilder that has the equipment, and none of the local auto parts stores will have a clue what you’re talking about. There have even been some internet sites that discuss the adjustment procedures for Bosch voltage regulators.
Check this site:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boschmechreg.htm
Attached is what the /4 relay boards look like. VR plugs into upper right of photo, harness plugs into similar triangle plug below that.
Bottom side. And all that melted/cracked potting material is why I really prefer to remote-mount the VR, so that the amperage is not going through the relay plate. All it takes is a single (low-amp) jumper wire from the VR harness to one of the pins on the relay plate to make the dash light work correctly.
Thanks everyone, this is great information. I will use this as I am going to take a look again tonight.
Send me your shipping information and I will send you a brand new old school Bosch to test with. If you want I can throw in a restored relay board. Let me know.
Link to a thread last year where I re-mounted the VR and changed to better power fuses.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=292455&hl=
BTW, I'm using a sold-state Hella VR now, and that top fuse is not needed.
Note the location of the heater relay "just in case" you lose the fuel pump or power relay.
Further, if you do not have a rear window defogger then that top relay is not used and becomes a handy place to store a known-good spare "just in case."
I believe you can jumper from the D+ to the DF terminals where the VR would plug in. That would force the alternator to go full +, and give you something on the order of 16V at the battery. Obviously you don't want to do that for long, unless you like batteries that boil over and/or explode. (Mmmm, sulfuric acid!! A face-full of that will wake you up in the morning--briefly.)
That will not specifically test out the VR, but if the alt does go full-charge, that would rule out much of the rest of the charging system.
--DD
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