curious what people w/ a 4-lug setup do to convert to lugs and nuts...
if not screw-in, do you drill out the threads and new studs in?
I voted yes...only if you use the hardened BBS Racing screw-in studs and have cleaned the threads properly and use Red LocTite
my old teener had them, but they are too short to get a good hold! maybe fine for stock beetle rims, but nothing alloy... they were too short for EMPI 8 spokes on my old car, and too short for the western wheels on my car now...
a good wheel place can put in PRESSED studs for about $100(what I was quoted here)
QUOTE |
my old teener had them, but they are too short to get a good hold! maybe fine for stock beetle rims, but nothing alloy... they were too short for EMPI 8 spokes on my old car, and too short for the western wheels on my car now... |
QUOTE (Mueller @ May 25 2005, 03:29 PM) | ||
they are available in different lengths you know figure to do the rear hubs, you'll be buying new rear wheel bearings, so make sure you add that to your budget.... |
QUOTE (Mueller @ May 25 2005, 12:21 PM) |
I voted yes...only if you use the hardened BBS Racing screw-in studs and have cleaned the threads properly and use Red LocTite |
QUOTE |
the "bugpack" ones were what was on the car, and not long enough for shit... |
QUOTE (Mueller @ May 25 2005, 03:38 PM) | ||
|
Hey Nathan,
Yep, those are them.....
I don't have the part numbers in front me, but you should be able to get them local from a BBS re-seller....there are three lengths available, I want to say 60mm, 75mm and 90mm.
I called BBS to get the part numbers....they are in Georgia, 1-770-967-9848
cool, thanks mike.
i've got ideas... oh boy do i have ideas....
I assume those are the lugs suggested for the billet hubs as well?
QUOTE (rdauenhauer @ May 25 2005, 02:06 PM) |
I assume those are the lugs suggested for the billet hubs as well? |
I just sold a set of these. I went back to bolts because I felt they were not safe.
There are some available that have double threads and a hex tip. This allows the screws to be torqued to the rotor and makes them safe IMHO, I believe they were also hardened steel.
most of the hex tipped 14mm units are not hardened, those are the cheap studs sold by Prestige Wheel and CB Performance (if silver in color)
the only concern you should have with screw-in studs is them backing out...if installed correctly, they will never back out.....
Here's my screw-in-lug story:
I got some from the local tire store when I switched my first 914 over from steel rims to Empi's (hey it was pre-internet and I was just a kid). I installed them, and torqued properly. Drove the car hard for a week on new sticky tires. Pulled the wheels to check the studs (didn't trust them) and found two of them were broken (fractured but not broken off yet). Never again.
-Ben M.
QUOTE (airsix @ May 25 2005, 02:23 PM) |
Here's my screw-in-lug story: I got some from the local tire store when I switched my first 914 over from steel rims to Empi's (hey it was pre-internet and I was just a kid). I installed them, and torqued properly. Drove the car hard for a week on new sticky tires. Pulled the wheels to check the studs (didn't trust them) and found two of them were broken (fractured but not broken off yet). Never again. -Ben M. |
mine may have worked if they had been loctited in, but I still didn't trust them...
I had a set a very long time ago and twisted several off. These were the cheap VW aftermarket grade crap. You should NEVER use those.
Now I have hardened studs (that's what my wife calls ME sometimes ) from MOROSO and are pressed in from the back side. Nice and long.
Paul
QUOTE (Mueller @ May 25 2005, 01:34 PM) |
a bolt of the same quality material and manufacturing method should have failed in the same manner...the OEM bolts are far better than the cheap aftermarket units..... |
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