Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: CG-914 Nov 11 2017, 10:44 PM

Last night on my commute home my '74 914 2.0 was hit in the rear by a Mercedes Sedan, the driver fled the scene and my insurance company explained to me today, that yes, you are insured against uninsured drivers and therefore against hit and run accidents but only for medical expenses , I guess next time I read the fine print better.

Now i need to fix the body and get a new paint job so I guess its time for the GT flares, 5 Lug conversion, Brake upgrade and Fuchs.

I do have some questions that I hope to get answered:

- Which are the best (probably steel) GT flares, also for the money?

- Where do I get the best fibreglass bumpers? GTracing?

- Do 8 inch fuchs fit in the rear?

- Whats the best spindle and hub to use in the front, I do want to run at least SC Calipers and the matching vented discs?

- What parts exactly of the 76/77 911 rear hub do I need for the rear conversion to five lug?

I know these are a lot of questions I hope you guys can help.

Thank you

Cornelius

PS Maybe somebody has seen something on the 91 west bound in LA on Friday around 6:50 pm?!

Posted by: AlanG Nov 11 2017, 10:49 PM

Sorry to hear about your accident and the screwing the insurance company is giving you. Good luck with the conversion.

Posted by: Blue6 Nov 11 2017, 11:00 PM

Were you able to get a partial plate or anything descriptive?

Posted by: Spoke Nov 11 2017, 11:03 PM

That sucks.

Good luck with the repairs and upgrades.

Posted by: mlindner Nov 12 2017, 06:02 AM

Try Rich Johnson,(A914GUY). He has front hubs and brake, oil tanks and more for 914 conversion to six. Just a great guy. Best, Mark

Posted by: bulitt Nov 12 2017, 06:24 AM

If you can find original OEM steel flares they are the best. But they just are very rare.
Automobile Atlanta sell steel flares that are very good. Or you can post a WTB in the classifieds. That's pretty much it.

Rear 5 lug conversion is simple- Drill existing hubs and install a 5 lug rotor.
Eric at PMB can sell you these. WTB in the classifieds works also.

All sorts of threads in the Classics forum on conversions.

Posted by: mepstein Nov 12 2017, 06:30 AM

sorry about the hit, glad you are ok.

Which are the best (probably steel) GT flares, also for the money? there is only one manufacturer of aftermarket steel flares, but many distributors. Even though restoration design is in Canada, their prices, including shipping is very competitive and they are great guys to work with. Looks like they charge $995. OEM flares, if you can find them, will run $4-5K. They all look the same under bodywork and paint.

- Where do I get the best fibreglass bumpers? GTracing? I wouldnt even consider fiberglass.

- Do 8 inch fuchs fit in the rear? yes

- Whats the best spindle and hub to use in the front, I do want to run at least SC Calipers and the matching vented discs? You probably want to find Boge or Billstein front struts with 3 1/2 caliper mounts. They will fit all the bigger brake choices.

- What parts exactly of the 76/77 911 rear hub do I need for the rear conversion to five lug - I would see if you can grab a complete axle assembly so you have the trans stub, cv's, hub stub, and hub. The axle wont fit but you can buy a sway away brand axle that is correct for the 914 conversion. PMB has them on their website.

good luck

Posted by: mb911 Nov 12 2017, 07:20 AM

He now sells my oil tanks..


And a side note ALL steel gt flares are made by AA..

Posted by: Cairo94507 Nov 12 2017, 07:52 AM

I am very sorry to see those photos and hear that story. There are dirt bag POS people driving everywhere and their MO is to hit and run because they are thugs.

I am glad you were not hurt and have already flipped the incident to be a positive one and take advantage of the opportunity to take your car to the next level. You have already heard the best advice from the crew above. I agree with Mark, no fiberglass bumpers on street cars- IMHO you want what ever crash protection you can get from the metal bumpers. Also fiberglass just does not do well on the street and ends up all cracked in short order with people bumping them, etc.

The remainder of the parts are all available. Compile a comprehensive list and work your way through it. I would suggest getting the car on a frame jig/bench to make sure it is straight and true first. Then build from there.

Cheers,
Michael

Posted by: mlindner Nov 12 2017, 08:00 AM

Sorry Ben, missed you. And Ben has the oil tanks, headers with heat exchanger, GT rocker flares and more. Best, Mark

Posted by: Boomingbeetle Nov 12 2017, 09:12 AM

Oh man, people are the worst! Now you’ve got me wondering about my insurance as well. Better look into it... I just hope it doesn’t take too long to bring back, better than before! Not as much fun looking at it in the garage as it is on the road. Especially with our nice 70 degree weather in LA lately

Posted by: Cairo94507 Nov 12 2017, 09:59 AM

Yet another reason to go with a stated value policy....just saying.

My car is presently insured at a decent stated value and it is in pieces. Once assembled I will at the minimum double that stated value amount. As much as it makes me sick to think of someone hitting my car, which would be emotional enough, I don't want to compound that with also taking a financial loss of a significant value should it be totaled by some snowflake texting while driving, drinking a coke and playing grab-ass with his girlfriend, boyfriend or "it".

Posted by: GeorgeRud Nov 12 2017, 10:16 AM

The AA flares are fine to use and really duplicated the factory pieces. They will easily fit 8” wheels, and it’s a good idea to have them mounted on the car when fitting the flares. Ben’s pieces are works of art and should help you do a conversion. Several different options are available for the front engine mount. You could also replace the front struts with Carrera struts to take advantage of the larger brake discs, but SC ones would also be great. PMB can provide any brake components you might need.

Though it doesn’t look bent, you might want to mount the chassis on a Celette Bench to check it before doing any other repair work. Enjoy the project!

Posted by: CG-914 Nov 12 2017, 11:17 AM

Thank you all!

And thank you all for the advise!

My biggest fear is, that the frame might not be straight and I am planing on getting that checked out as soon as possible.

The GT conversion is happening right now, but at this point I think I might need to divide the conversion into two steps, build a 170 HP type 4 for now and go 6 later. A six is an expensive rout to go down. I am not sure at this point. What is needed for the six besides tank, mounts and headers.

So if fibreglass bumpers are a no no, how do you do the oil cooler cutout in the front?

Posted by: mlindner Nov 12 2017, 11:22 AM

MY 914-6 GT tribute is about 90% done, but after the paint job a year and half ago the cost and time put into the car was starting to climb. I called my agent at Heacock Classic for a declared value insurance. She asked if was drivable, I told her not yet....within the year. I was able to get a declared value of 30,000 on the 914 added to my declared value on my 2007 Cayman S. The additional cost for the 914 is only 180.00/year. Hope that helps. Mark

Posted by: Coondog Nov 12 2017, 12:01 PM

[quote name='CG-914' date='Nov 12 2017, 10:17 AM' post='2547847'

My biggest fear is, that the frame might not be straight and I am planing on getting that checked out as soon as possible.
[/quote]

I agree, this is your first step. Good luck and get another ins. company.

Posted by: mepstein Nov 12 2017, 12:05 PM

I would take some measurements at the suspension points, trailing arms, ect. It should tell you pretty quickly if you are still in the ballpark. If you can install a wheel without a tire, it can also make a good reference point.

Posted by: mb911 Nov 12 2017, 12:42 PM

When you get ready I make these for the rockers for the gt look

Posted by: porschetub Nov 12 2017, 12:59 PM

Sorry to hear of your misfortune,hopefully your car can come back better than ever.
Some parts you will need of the top of my head;
Throttle bellcrank conversion,
muffler for headers (stock 911 is a reasonable option),
911 tacho,911 combo gauge or additional vdo 52mm gauges for fuel and oil pressure ,
914/6 engine tin,
oil tank breather hose and tank breather,
oil lines, adaptors ,oil cooler (engine dependent),
oil cooler ducting (engine dependent),
engine return oil pipe,
engine wiring loom,
low pressure fuel pump,regulator and fuel hoses,
flywheel,stock or conversion type (engine dependent),full clutch kit,
rear shift rod,
hand throttle for carbed engine,
etc etc,
Theres the obvious conversion to 5 lug and the brakes to go with them including hand brake modification, may have missed some thing but you should get the idea.
Good luck getting your car straight again.

Posted by: Larmo63 Nov 12 2017, 01:09 PM

A big /4 Type IV engine with all the tricks can be almost as much as a /6 engine. Oil tank, oil cooler, /6 motor mount, etc can get pricy.

Good luck on which ever way you decide to go. Keep us updated on the car, it's only money.

Posted by: ConeDodger Nov 12 2017, 01:33 PM

Huh?

There is a set of original German flares for sale on one of the Facebook 914
Pages. Only $4500.00.

The reproduction flares are thicker gauge metal, more accurate and most often under $1000.00.

Not sure the rare expensive part should be used on a conversion either.

To the OP, this is terrible and my worst nightmare. I hope you come out of it better than you went in.

Posted by: ConeDodger Nov 12 2017, 01:40 PM

These are custom built 8.5” Fuchs on mine so I’d guess any stockish 8” is going to work. There’s more room up front but changing the track width up there makes steering harder. These are stock 7X16” up front. Don’t go too wide, they have to turn!


Attached image(s)

Posted by: mepstein Nov 12 2017, 02:11 PM

I think doing the flares, wheels, brakes and suspension before you do the engine conversion is a great idea. Except for flare install, body work and paint, theres no reason your car should be down for a long time. Then decide if you are doing the engine and gather parts while you drive.

Posted by: CG-914 Nov 13 2017, 10:18 PM

I had some time of thinking and I will convert to a flat six. The reason the engine is a topic already, the current type 4 has low oil pressure and a rod knock

Does anybody have a link for the oil tank options?

Where do you run the oil lines for the front cooler? I worked on a customer 914-6 conversion car once, that was not made well and I was trying to fix some of the big issues, anyways the oil lines for the cooler where run under the car in the impression where the tunnel is located above and I did not like that solution...

At Patrick Motorsport they sell two 914 6 engine mounts, weld on and bolt on, i guess bolt on is easier, but what is the advantage of weld on? I don't see a big difference structurally.

Posted by: ConeDodger Nov 13 2017, 11:23 PM

McMark made a copy of the six mount and I believe Ben has taken over making and selling them MB911?

The factory oil lines to the front cooler ran under the rocker covers on the driver side. You can run the high pressure rubber hoses which is perfectly adequate, or braided lines which are expensive. If you want authenticity, I think PMB is making the bent solid oil lines that were originally used.

That same Ben is making the oil tank...

Posted by: scallyk9 Nov 14 2017, 01:25 AM

Just a mention that there are other options. My 3.2 conversion uses a Johnson mount similar to the Valeo mount (there is one currently available on eBay) that mimics the original -6 mount with excellent isolation. My conversion also uses a rather large auxiliary cooler mounted under the trunk needing much shorter lines and fewer modifications. Cooling has not been a problem although the summers are not that hot in the Pacific Northwest.

Posted by: colingreene Nov 15 2017, 12:19 AM

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728

This was super helpful for me doing my 5 lug conversion.
you have my number im always game to help.

Posted by: CG-914 Nov 24 2017, 11:35 AM

Thank you for the link Colin!

Im still trying to figure out what 911 flatsix route i will be going.

Quick question though: AA has the GT flares and fitting rocker panels. My Rocker panels are rusted through so they are no candidate to weld on different ends. Do the GT rocker panels from AA fit?

Posted by: mb911 Nov 24 2017, 11:45 AM

Not very well

Posted by: sithot Nov 24 2017, 01:58 PM

California has it's own rules:

https://www.sanfranciscoinjurylawyerblog.com/2012/01/auto_insurance_may_not_pay_for_1.html

The State of California requires drivers to carry insurance at all times. Many drivers assume that carrying the minimum insurance required should cover damage done to their car in most instances. However, this is not the case.
California Insurance Code Section 11580.1b only requires that drivers buy liability insurance that provides at least $15,000 in coverage for injury or death to one person, $30,000 in coverage for injury or death to more than one person, and $5,000 in coverage for property damage.]This type of insurance coverage pays medical expenses and vehicle repair costs to the other driver, if the insured is at fault. Therefore, if you find yourself the victim of a hit and run accident, the minimum amount of insurance would not cover any of your costs.

25% of California motorists are driving without insurance. Drivers who carry only liability insurance are not covered in the case of an accident with an uninsured motorist and must pay for medical bills and for repairs to damaged property out of pocket. In California, a hit and run accident where the driver is unidentified is treated by insurance companies as if it were an accident with an uninsured motorist. According to the AAA Foundation for Traffic Safety, 11% of accidents are hit and run accidents nationwide. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration puts the number of hit and run accidents in California specifically at 18% of crashes.

There are optional types of coverage that will pay for some or all of the expenses of a victim of a hit and run crash. First, collision coverage will cover damage sustained by the insured’s car, regardless of who is at fault, including hit and run drivers. However, this type of insurance requires the insured to pay a deductible out of pocket and is more expensive than other types of insurance. In addition, a claim to the insurance company may affect the policy holder’s future insurance rate, regardless of who is at fault. A driver would need to take out an additional personal injury policy in order to be covered for medical expenses in the event of a hit and run accident.

Insurance companies in California are also required to offer uninsured motorists coverage. This type of insurance covers the medical expenses, lost wages, and pain and suffering of policy holders who suffer injuries as a result of an accident with an uninsured driver, including hit and run motorists. Additionally, drivers may choose to carry uninsured motorist property damage coverage for damage to their car. Uninsured motorist property damage insurance is advisable as 80% of hit and run accident involve only damage to vehicles. There is no deductible for this type of coverage, however there may be limits placed on the amount paid out.

If you are the victim of a hit and run accident, whether the driver is identifiable or not, it is recommended that you file a police report. You may have to complete a walk-in report at the police department, as some patrols will respond to the accident site, especially if the accident occurred on private property like a grocery store parking lot. A police report is important documentation of your claim and may be required to pursue a claim with your insurance company if you do have collision or uninsured motorists insurance.

If the hit and run driver is identified (for instance, by license plate number) the victim of the accident may file a civil lawsuit for damages against the driver and their insurance company if they carry insurance. The victim’s insurance company may have a lien on any damages awarded to the victim for money it previously paid out to the victim, called the right of subrogation. In any case, the victim may be able to recover out of pocket expenses not covered by insurance and for pain and suffering. Injury victims in California who want to bring a civil action against a hit and run driver should consult a California accident attorney for information on their rights and possible outcomes of a suit.

Posted by: CG-914 Jan 29 2018, 12:18 AM

Its been a while so here an update and some more questions:

The car has been mostly sitting, I been waiting on guy to come by check out the damage to pull out the corner.
This weekend I took the time to get the rear bumper off and 'pry' open the rear trunk, to be able to move it.

I also ordered and hunted down some parts, got a set of GT flares from AA and some proper 5 lug 911 conversion parts.

I have some questions now, since I'm going into the sheetmetal/body work :
- where are you getting wich panels from (fitment and best price...)(also 914 sheetmetal pieces seem hard to come by)?

- the next question is about what front mounted oil coolers do you run and where and what lines do you run to the front (also asking that question since i have to fix the rockers...)

Posted by: mepstein Jan 29 2018, 05:53 AM

Ben/MB911 will shortly have an entire front oil cooler kit for sale. It will make it easy to buy it all in one place and have everything fit.

Posted by: mb911 Jan 29 2018, 06:12 AM

Check out my GT oil line group buy thread for oil lines..

I also am working on a complete -6. Turn key kit.. And getting close.. Let me know how I can help.

Posted by: CG-914 Jan 29 2018, 12:42 PM

What fittings and cooler do you use? Where do your lines run to the front? Do you have any pictures.

Does anybody have pictures of the factory solution and pictures of an solution, as well as mounting the cooler in the front and what body alterations where made in the front, to accommodate for the cooler...

Posted by: mb911 Jan 29 2018, 01:14 PM

Below are factory setups pictured. Mine will be similar.. The hard GT lines run on the outside of the rocker underneath the rocker cover and goes through the rocker into the inside of the car. This is what my kits will and do as well.. If it was good for the factory it is good for us[attachmentid=6
36937]


Attached thumbnail(s)